Front Row — Page 51

Jenny Packham Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Is red carpet or is it bridal? With Jenny Packham it is always beautiful, still, was her spring 2017 a true bridal collection or something else?

Well, one thing for sure Packham’s spring 2017 collection was a little bit country. That said; this season Jenny Packham proved that bridal can be a lot of things; red carpet, country music–inspired and of course, bridal.

With Packham’s fashion collections there is always lots of embellishments, beading, sequins and red-carpet fabrications. That also carries over to Packham’s wedding collections. One of Packham’s signature aesthetic sequined caped sleeves carries over to this spring 2017 bridal collection. Still, what stands out about this collection is that the bridal gowns this season could also work as red carpet gowns. Additionally, Jenny Packham used a Country Western theme as the setting for her spring 2017 collection with bales of hay, a Midwestern general goods store and Country Western music as a backdrop.

You may ask what this Country Western–motif have to do with a bridal collection? That relationship may be hard to fathom. However, modern bridal collection go way behind white bridal gowns and the modern draws her inspiration from lots of references. Jenny Packham with this Country Western–theme has tapped into that bride. And if you closely examine Country Music Award shows many of the red carpet looks are heavily embellished gowns with lots of sequins, crystals and beading. Not a wide stretch from Packham’s signature DNA, and there is some symbiosis there!!

Images courtesy of Thomas Iannaconne/wwd.com

There was also a bohemian gypsy spirit to the collection evidenced in some the loose, billowing quality of the gowns, bell and Dolman sleeves, and the models slightly mused hair. Though there was a bit tongue-and-cheek to the collection, Packham’s exquisite tailoring and the sparkling brilliance of the gowns helped keep the collection solidly in the category of a modern bridal collection.

—William S. Gooch

Galia Lahav Bridal Spring 2017

April 16, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

For those bridal devotees not familiar with Galia Lahav, Galia Lahav is a haute couture designer that presents her couture collections in Paris every season. Her bridal collections often reflect her current haute couture collection. Lahav’s bridal collection are made of the finest fabrications and like her haute couture collections reflect the brand’s DNA of modern sophistication, intricate detailing and highest aspect of couture design.

For spring bridal 2017 Lahav looked to love without boundaries as the theme for her collection. Where in past showings during New York International Bridal Week Lahav would have an exquisite runway presentation, this season Lahav went for a a more subtle presentation of models positioned against a open field tableau with samples for some the brand’s haute couture collections in an adjoining room on mannequins. The juxtaposition of both aspects of the Lahav brand gave industry professionals the unique opportunity to witness the influence of the brand’s haute couture collections on the bridal collection.

That said; Lahav’s spring bridal 2017 collection, entitled “Le Secret Royal,” explores how boundless love should make a bride feel regal and sophisticated. This sense of sophistication and queenliness is expressed in floral embellishments on the gowns that evoke the essence of regal poise. The glamorous shades of pink and rose conjure up images of strolling through royal gardens, while the petal details, sequined embellishment and extravagant silhouettes portend the aristocratic leanings of the collection.

Images courtesy of Galia Lahav

As always with Lahav, there is an interesting injection of sensuality evidenced in low décolletage and form-fitting silhouettes. Standouts in the collection include Lahav’s mermaid gown with clear glass beading with trompe l’oiel embroidery, strapless corset mermaid gown with royal vine pattern and silver and clear crystals, and the ‘Rihanna’ mermaid silhouette with sheer sides with embroidered tulle and pieces of ash-colored tulle.

—William S. Gooch

Anne Barge Bridal Spring 2017

April 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are looking for beautiful, traditional bridal designs, Anne Barge immediately comes to mind. However, if you have been following the brand for the past few seasons, Anne Barge has expanded her brand beyond traditional bridal fare. True, you will find the traditional bridal silhouettes—fit-to-flare, mermaid, princess ball gown, and even high-low gowns—still Barge understands that creating beautiful gowns with flourishes of lace, tulle and detailed embroidery is not enough.

For spring 2017, Barge was inspired by the awakening of spring gardens, still covered in frost, with dewy petals peeking through the early morning frost. This dewy freshness was made evident in cascading pearls and ice-like sparkling crystals that referenced the dawn of an early spring morning, not quite ripe, nascent and blushingly beautiful.

Barge has forged an entire career out of making beautiful bridal gowns in the traditional mode. That brand DNA is still in place. Still, for spring 2017 Barge is projecting her brand toward a more youthful bride. This projection is made obvious in some of the high-low looks and in the cascading pearls down the back of the gowns and over the shoulders.

Barge’s reference of an awakening spring gardens takes a nod to the freshness and perhaps, unspoiled nature of youth. And where in previous outings Barge’s bridal collection had more of an appeal to a more traditional, conservative bridal consumer, for spring 2017 Barge’s design aesthetic is more appealing to a wider bridal demographic.

Images courtesy of Anne Barge/Dan Lecca

Standouts in the collection are Barge’s modified mermaid gown with sheer, deep V-neck bodice with Alencon lace appliques and lattice-inspired embroidery, cocktail length Chantilly dress with beaded Alencon lace overlay with tulle overskirt, stretch crepe column gown with bateau neckline with illusion back, and strapless high-low gown of silk Mikado with beaded lace appliques and pockets.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Spring 2017

April 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Theia’s creative director Don O’Neill demonstrates every season that bridal can be so much more than a white dress. And this season O’Neill expanded his bridal design aesthetic to include otherworldly, futuristic bridal designs that pushes the bridal genre into the next century.

Inspired by David Bowie’s “The Man Who Fell to Earth” and a Rafal Makiela underwater photograph of a figure shrouded in white having plunged thru the silvery surface, O’Neill’s spring 2017 bride looks to the unpredictable future where there is no restraint and personal preference is the order of the day. O’Neill’s spring 2017 bride also transcends traditional and marches to the beat of her own drum which in this collection is the rhythm of freedom and galactic surprise.

Where some bridal pundits may feel that Don O’Neill’s bridal collections are heavy on concept and storytelling and short on retail value, some of them fail to understand that niche markets are becoming much larger and mass consumption is losing market value. Consider most of the major fashion brands whose stock value continues to plummet as they frantically search for new creative directors that can satisfy an ever-evolving consumer palette for innovative design. Bridal, with the exception of discount bridal boutiques, has not necessarily been a mass-market industry. And where some designers, season after season, attempt to appeal to that bridal consumer that is in the market for traditional bridal gowns, the true design artist of the industry are aiming for niche markets.

That said, Don O’Neill is right on track!! And where this outing was a bit of stretch, the fashionista bridal consumer will be delighted!! Consider, O’Neill through a lot of interesting concepts into this pot and what rose to the surface is something for almost everyone.

For the bride that wanted something a bit more casual and fashion forward, Theia’s spring 2017 collection there was an ivory satin back crepe and Chantilly lace souvenir jacket over Chantilly lace skirt. If you are the market for 1960’s edgy look there was a white silk crepe and vinyl gown with steel grommets and silk organza ruffle. And that bride that wanted to really startle as she glides down the aisle there was O’Neill’s white silk crepe silk dress with fractal patterned-raffia embroidered vortex collar jacket and the molded crystal corset over white silk crepe skirt.

Also, consider the future names: solar sail halter gown; white interstellar radio wave–patterned sequin gown; galactic blue silk lame jacquard gown, and “Star Light” embroidered gown. Definitely, not a bridal collection for the faint of heart or shrinking violet, but Theia’s bridal collections never are!!

Images courtesy of Rodin Banica/wwd.com

Stick to your guns, Don O’Neill. Contrary to what some bridal critics believe, the American bridal consumer is ready for you!!

—William S. Gooch

Georgine Fall 2016

February 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For fall 2016 Georgine design aesthetic expanded the plethora of storybook pretty to storybook vamp. Though some fashion pundits may contend that the fall 2016 collection lacked cohesion without a true center, Georgine is catering to that consumer that dresses in a wide variety of styles and trends and is always including some garments in their wardrobe that have shock value.

With such an assemblage of garments that could appeal to a wide demographic, one would assume that Georgine has yet not discovered their customer base. Not true!! At closer examination, though were varying design aesthetics in the fall 2016 collection, what was consistent throughout the outing was and funky eclecticism that ranged from nerdy sophistication to cotton candy girlishness to downtown sex siren.

Surprisingly, this is the same consumer. Remember, the modern female consumer dresses according to her pocketbook and her mood. And Georgine brilliantly captured all the vicissitudes of her consumer attitudinal mood swings. Is the Georgine consumer slightly bipolar, maybe? But, there is nothing wrong with that as long as she is stylishly so.

For fall 2016, Georgine dresses her consumer at almost every jointure of her day; particularly, if you consumer is creative and works in creative endeavors. This collection is definitely not for the Wall Street type, unless that type has a clandestine life she’s keep secret.

There was a strong emphasis on outerwear in this collection, as we have seen from several designers this season. Still, for Georgine the outerwear bordered on the eclectic and glamorously in your face. Which is exactly what NYFW: The Shows needed this season, a lot more in-you-face boldness and pizazz. And in that respect Georgine delivered hands down!!

Images courtesy Aurora Rose/wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection include the brand’s camel and forest lace coat with cotton candy shearling collar, emerald merino wool sweatshirt with jacquard circle skirt, velvet and embroidered floral corseted dress, poison black velvet and net dress, and sleeveless black velvet and net gown.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Fall 2016

February 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Vivienne Tam is in love with Chinese culture. And that is a good thing!! In past outings, Tam has been inspired by chinoiserie, the Forbidden City, Chinese iconography as seen in Shanghai, the Paris of the East, and other Far East references which when funneled through hers lens of modernity and innovation creates a distillation on where fashion is heading.

For fall 2016, Vivienne Tam referenced a mélange of different cultures from the Chinese western frontier across central Asia to the Caucasus—comprising an emerging economic and cultural trade route to as the new “Silk Road.” Liner notes for the collection detail, “drawing upon indigenous cultures from Xinjiang, Kazakhstan, all the way to Turkey and Russia, this culture-bridging approach makes for a harmonious mosaic that is the main theme of the collection.”

This new “Silk Road” is producing a cross-pollination of cultures that borrows from past cultural influence while keeping solidly in the past, as well as projecting toward the future. This cross-pollination is aptly present in Tam’s fall 2016 collection.

Paired with a mid-1970s design aesthetic—gauchos, poncho-styled tops, and loose fitting trousers—and Tam’s affinity for mixing patterns, textures and colors palettes, this fall 2016 collection was more consumer and retail friendly than Tam’s spring 2016 that had an overabundance of masculine silhouettes that were sometimes unflattering to the feminine physique. Still, this collection was far removed from a parochial palette and more line with this new, emerging global consumer and traveler that comfortable almost anywhere.

Tam’s color palette in this collection is characterized by the rich, earth tones of burgundy, tan and deep black balanced against burnished pewter, silver and bronze metallic. And Tam’s ingeniously incorporation of patchwork leather, quilted jacquards and chunky knits with indigenous patterns married with Tam’s unique color palette and interesting fabrications helped produce a collection that drew credible references from the “Silk Road” of the past but was also very current with a projectile toward the future. In other words, yesterday, now and next!!

Images courtesy of Pablo la Torre/Indigital.tv

Standouts in the collection is Tam’s merino wool mock turtleneck sweater with Caroq patchwork in boysenberry, ultra suede patchwork jacket and skirt, sequin Raglan sleeve top with striped Ikat motif, cream and grey mohair sweater with black trousers, and sequin zigzag sleeveless gown with Talismanic applique.

—William S. Gooch

Alice+Olivia Fall 2016

February 16, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

In one word, Alice+Olivia’s fall 2016 presentation can be described as a cornucopia of color and texture., that consists of every color palette under the sun with a 70’s psychedelic twist. Or, you might say Alice in Wonderland’s falling down the rabbit hole funneled through the lens of a vintage 1970’s aesthetic.

The extremes of bright colors combined with bold patterns have been seen before—think Missoni and other European brands—but rarely seen stateside. There are garments in bold tones of reds, royal blue, emerald green, and gold—which might only fit into the wardrobe of the truly adventurous fashionista.

The presentation continued with a subtly opened black floor-length coat with over-the-knee suede boots coupled with a color sliced handbag, giving consumers a lot of mix-and-match choices. There were also patterned skirts with solid color turtleneck sweaters and matching 70’s hats. Bright yellow with splashes of black on coats worn with green suede skirts, red suede boots seemed subtle compared to the brand’s long-sleeved, floor-length belted dresses in crazy quilt, kaleidoscope patterns.

There were some solid colors evidenced in red shirts and slacks with again the 70’s–themed hats. Alice+Olivia’s furs also have a unique pattern of horizontal stripes in bright colors. In addition, there were patterned dresses with denim patchwork jackets, mini skirts with colorful striped jackets.

The Alice+Olivia hot pants—which seemed to pop up in a lot of the fall 2016collections—; however, Alice +Olivia made their 70s hot pant looks in a variety of fabrications and patterns. Touches of pastel color palettes seen in coats and suits calmed the crazy kaleidoscope aspect the collection and also added a bit of a restraint. Still, this collection is not for the fashion faint of heart!!

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Still, if there was one drawback to this collection, many of the garments in this fall 2016 collection might be easily in purchased in some upscale vintage store. However, the crisp styling in this collection elevated many of looks from standard vintage store fare!! And many fashionistas should take inspiration from that!!

—Rosemary Ponzo

Reem Acra Fall 2016

February 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

What can be said about Reem Acra? Season after season Reem Acra brings sophistication, glamour, and a unique way of looking at red carpet high fashion.

For fall 2016 Reem Acra was inspired by the world of the femme fatale. One can imagine Salome, Empress Theodora, Mata Hari, and Silent Screen actress Theda Bara, in garments from this collection.

With a nod the lingerie trend that pops in ready-to-wear collections every decade, Reem Acra helps elevate her affection for that trend by adding lots of sequin details, fringe, and a modern sensuality that will appeal to a wide female demographic. There are lots of influences in this collection from 1920s flapper, drop-waist references to Victorian high-collar design motifs to medieval reflections, to a nod to burlesque.

Reem Acra’s design aesthetic emanates from her interpretation of beauty, glamour and sophistication. And that point of view is front and center in the fall 2016 collection. However, what stands out most in this outing is the brand’s injection of a covert an overt mysterious quality to the clothes. This mysterious overlay has been evident in previous collection. (The spring 2016 collection hemmed on a mysterious orientalism.)

That said; the fall 2016 collection’s brand of mystery an allure was of a different sort. The mysterious allure of fall 2016 was clandestine and titillating evidenced in embroidered décolletage dipping to regions unknown and slinky, lingerie-inspired garments with garter peek-a-boo elements.

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/vogue.com

Standout looks in the collection are Reem Acra’s saffron silk charmeuse dress with lace underpinning, black lace/silk chiffon drew with embroidered overlay, metallic silver dress with black guipure lace and pewter embroidery, and ebony lace dress with embroidered pewter embroidery.

—William S. Gooch

Katya Leonovich Fall 2016

February 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Does the fashion as art aesthetic have real retail value? This argument has been bandied back in forth in fashion circles for decades. And while some designers have opted for the fashion as commerce approach to design that can render huge financial rewards, there are those designers that follow their own drummer and create collections that are exquisite works of wearable art. Katya Leonivich is one such designer.

For fall 2016, Katya Leonovich was inspired by a hurricane witnessed while on vacation in Bermuda. The whirling and swirling miasma of hurricane storms are evidenced in garments that digitally printed with whirling winds and waves, the lost faces of children and animals, and hurricane-like turbulence.

Leonovich, season after season, has defined her brand’s DNA as a design aesthetic that is an edgy, out of the box perspective that places beauty and creative craftsmanship above mass merchandizing. This season Leonovich’s “Bisected Beauty” collection was a compilation of pared down avant-garde looks and leaned toward garments that are more wearable. Still, Leonovich did not sacrifice her brand’s DNA for a fall 2016 collection that might have more consumer appeal. In fact, this fashion outing should expand her consumer demographic.

The fashion as art aesthetic is still front and center. Leonovich presented her fall 2016 collection as an art installation with her hurricane paintings as a backdrop to the collection. A burgundy ostrich feathered long couture gown served as the centerpiece of the installation that consisted of garments on silver metallic mannequins.

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity

The most exciting addition of the fashion installation/presentation was the debut of Leonovich’s menswear pieces which consisted of beautifully tailored to perfection jackets made of neoprene, black pony, leather, and fox fur. The pieces are classic, versatile, edgy, yet still remain true to the playful nature of the brand’s DNA, but in a perfectly toned down approach. Bravo Katya!!

—William S. Gooch

Thomas Wylde Fall 2016

February 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by the upcoming Disney remake “Alice Through the Looking Glass” and California’s beachside culture of skaters, musicians, artists, and surfer types, Thomas Wylde creative director Jene Park created a fall 2016 collection that heavily referenced Los Angeles’ nightlife, and more specifically its rock n’ roll club scene. Sexy, bold, somewhat irreverent, and surprisingly accessible are all great adjectives that describe this fall 2016 collection.

Decades ago rock n’ roll inspired fashion collections appeared mostly to a youthful, rebellious niche audience. (Think Zhandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood, Betsey Johnson, to a lesser degree Claude Montana, and currently John Varvatos.) Those days are long gone. Rock n’ roll references are rather commonplace in fashion and what was once seen as rebellious and outré is now seen as high fashion. And that is one of the challenges with this collection.

Though this collection is exciting and does cause pulses to quicken, fashion insiders and many fashionistas have seen most of the looks many times over. (Consider Versace’s punk-inspired collection a few seasons ago.) Like the proverb “there is nothing new under the sun,” this collection rehashes standard rock n’ roll looks that keep popping up in collections every four or five years. And that is no necessarily a bad thing!! If something works, keep doing it. And this collection works!!

Still, there are some details in this fall 2016 collection that elevates this outing from standard rock n’ roll–inspired collections. The brand adds small ruffles to the hem of jackets and pants, a very interesting and unexpected flourish that adds a softer quality to the otherwise hard driving collection.

There are also some lingerie elements to the collection that gives the collection a plush richness. That said; at times there was an overabundance of zippers, metal studs, Swarovski embellishments, and fur elements.

Images courtesy of Tommy Iannaconne/wwd.com

Standouts in the fall 2016 collection include the brand’s sunset red undulating cape with dyed fox collar with plunging V-neck thigh-high draped matte jersey dress, tar black shadow fox wand leather gilet with diamonte crystal studded details. Cream white undulating cashmere cape with white shadow fox collar, sunset red shrunken leather biker jacket with diamond cut studding detail on the sleeves, and sunset red al over pailette encrusted coat dress with tumbling layers of chiffon and frayed silk chiffon conical ruffle detailing.

—William S. Gooch