Front Row — Page 50

Alice+Olivia Fall 2016

February 16, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

In one word, Alice+Olivia’s fall 2016 presentation can be described as a cornucopia of color and texture., that consists of every color palette under the sun with a 70’s psychedelic twist. Or, you might say Alice in Wonderland’s falling down the rabbit hole funneled through the lens of a vintage 1970’s aesthetic.

The extremes of bright colors combined with bold patterns have been seen before—think Missoni and other European brands—but rarely seen stateside. There are garments in bold tones of reds, royal blue, emerald green, and gold—which might only fit into the wardrobe of the truly adventurous fashionista.

The presentation continued with a subtly opened black floor-length coat with over-the-knee suede boots coupled with a color sliced handbag, giving consumers a lot of mix-and-match choices. There were also patterned skirts with solid color turtleneck sweaters and matching 70’s hats. Bright yellow with splashes of black on coats worn with green suede skirts, red suede boots seemed subtle compared to the brand’s long-sleeved, floor-length belted dresses in crazy quilt, kaleidoscope patterns.

There were some solid colors evidenced in red shirts and slacks with again the 70’s–themed hats. Alice+Olivia’s furs also have a unique pattern of horizontal stripes in bright colors. In addition, there were patterned dresses with denim patchwork jackets, mini skirts with colorful striped jackets.

The Alice+Olivia hot pants—which seemed to pop up in a lot of the fall 2016collections—; however, Alice +Olivia made their 70s hot pant looks in a variety of fabrications and patterns. Touches of pastel color palettes seen in coats and suits calmed the crazy kaleidoscope aspect the collection and also added a bit of a restraint. Still, this collection is not for the fashion faint of heart!!

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Still, if there was one drawback to this collection, many of the garments in this fall 2016 collection might be easily in purchased in some upscale vintage store. However, the crisp styling in this collection elevated many of looks from standard vintage store fare!! And many fashionistas should take inspiration from that!!

—Rosemary Ponzo

Reem Acra Fall 2016

February 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

What can be said about Reem Acra? Season after season Reem Acra brings sophistication, glamour, and a unique way of looking at red carpet high fashion.

For fall 2016 Reem Acra was inspired by the world of the femme fatale. One can imagine Salome, Empress Theodora, Mata Hari, and Silent Screen actress Theda Bara, in garments from this collection.

With a nod the lingerie trend that pops in ready-to-wear collections every decade, Reem Acra helps elevate her affection for that trend by adding lots of sequin details, fringe, and a modern sensuality that will appeal to a wide female demographic. There are lots of influences in this collection from 1920s flapper, drop-waist references to Victorian high-collar design motifs to medieval reflections, to a nod to burlesque.

Reem Acra’s design aesthetic emanates from her interpretation of beauty, glamour and sophistication. And that point of view is front and center in the fall 2016 collection. However, what stands out most in this outing is the brand’s injection of a covert an overt mysterious quality to the clothes. This mysterious overlay has been evident in previous collection. (The spring 2016 collection hemmed on a mysterious orientalism.)

That said; the fall 2016 collection’s brand of mystery an allure was of a different sort. The mysterious allure of fall 2016 was clandestine and titillating evidenced in embroidered décolletage dipping to regions unknown and slinky, lingerie-inspired garments with garter peek-a-boo elements.

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/vogue.com

Standout looks in the collection are Reem Acra’s saffron silk charmeuse dress with lace underpinning, black lace/silk chiffon drew with embroidered overlay, metallic silver dress with black guipure lace and pewter embroidery, and ebony lace dress with embroidered pewter embroidery.

—William S. Gooch

Katya Leonovich Fall 2016

February 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Does the fashion as art aesthetic have real retail value? This argument has been bandied back in forth in fashion circles for decades. And while some designers have opted for the fashion as commerce approach to design that can render huge financial rewards, there are those designers that follow their own drummer and create collections that are exquisite works of wearable art. Katya Leonivich is one such designer.

For fall 2016, Katya Leonovich was inspired by a hurricane witnessed while on vacation in Bermuda. The whirling and swirling miasma of hurricane storms are evidenced in garments that digitally printed with whirling winds and waves, the lost faces of children and animals, and hurricane-like turbulence.

Leonovich, season after season, has defined her brand’s DNA as a design aesthetic that is an edgy, out of the box perspective that places beauty and creative craftsmanship above mass merchandizing. This season Leonovich’s “Bisected Beauty” collection was a compilation of pared down avant-garde looks and leaned toward garments that are more wearable. Still, Leonovich did not sacrifice her brand’s DNA for a fall 2016 collection that might have more consumer appeal. In fact, this fashion outing should expand her consumer demographic.

The fashion as art aesthetic is still front and center. Leonovich presented her fall 2016 collection as an art installation with her hurricane paintings as a backdrop to the collection. A burgundy ostrich feathered long couture gown served as the centerpiece of the installation that consisted of garments on silver metallic mannequins.

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity

The most exciting addition of the fashion installation/presentation was the debut of Leonovich’s menswear pieces which consisted of beautifully tailored to perfection jackets made of neoprene, black pony, leather, and fox fur. The pieces are classic, versatile, edgy, yet still remain true to the playful nature of the brand’s DNA, but in a perfectly toned down approach. Bravo Katya!!

—William S. Gooch

Thomas Wylde Fall 2016

February 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by the upcoming Disney remake “Alice Through the Looking Glass” and California’s beachside culture of skaters, musicians, artists, and surfer types, Thomas Wylde creative director Jene Park created a fall 2016 collection that heavily referenced Los Angeles’ nightlife, and more specifically its rock n’ roll club scene. Sexy, bold, somewhat irreverent, and surprisingly accessible are all great adjectives that describe this fall 2016 collection.

Decades ago rock n’ roll inspired fashion collections appeared mostly to a youthful, rebellious niche audience. (Think Zhandra Rhodes, Vivienne Westwood, Betsey Johnson, to a lesser degree Claude Montana, and currently John Varvatos.) Those days are long gone. Rock n’ roll references are rather commonplace in fashion and what was once seen as rebellious and outré is now seen as high fashion. And that is one of the challenges with this collection.

Though this collection is exciting and does cause pulses to quicken, fashion insiders and many fashionistas have seen most of the looks many times over. (Consider Versace’s punk-inspired collection a few seasons ago.) Like the proverb “there is nothing new under the sun,” this collection rehashes standard rock n’ roll looks that keep popping up in collections every four or five years. And that is no necessarily a bad thing!! If something works, keep doing it. And this collection works!!

Still, there are some details in this fall 2016 collection that elevates this outing from standard rock n’ roll–inspired collections. The brand adds small ruffles to the hem of jackets and pants, a very interesting and unexpected flourish that adds a softer quality to the otherwise hard driving collection.

There are also some lingerie elements to the collection that gives the collection a plush richness. That said; at times there was an overabundance of zippers, metal studs, Swarovski embellishments, and fur elements.

Images courtesy of Tommy Iannaconne/wwd.com

Standouts in the fall 2016 collection include the brand’s sunset red undulating cape with dyed fox collar with plunging V-neck thigh-high draped matte jersey dress, tar black shadow fox wand leather gilet with diamonte crystal studded details. Cream white undulating cashmere cape with white shadow fox collar, sunset red shrunken leather biker jacket with diamond cut studding detail on the sleeves, and sunset red al over pailette encrusted coat dress with tumbling layers of chiffon and frayed silk chiffon conical ruffle detailing.

—William S. Gooch

Monique Lhuillier Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Monique Lhuillier is full of surprises. Just when you think you have a handle on her design aesthetic, Monique Lhuillier injects a unique perspective that takes you on a completely different, but relevant journey.

From collections that were dissertations on florals to collections that were inspired by the Garden of Eden, 80s athletic wear, to 70s–inspired garments, Lhuiller’s collections are not par for the course, standard fare. Which is why ever season she expands her consumer base, and has become one of the go-to designers for red-carpet glamour. In other words, Lhuillier keeps you guessing, but in a good way.

Taking a cue from actress and socialite Talitha Getty, for fall 2016 Monique Lhuillier really dipped into 70s glamour reference for inspiration, all evidenced in metallic lames, fanciful prints, and paisley-printed jacquards. A couple of seasons ago Lhuillier played around with a 1970s reference with a strong nod toward Studio 54; however, this season Lhuillier 70s inspiration leaned more toward an early psychedelic, free spirit influence.

This season Lhuillier also played a lot with separates and outerwear, with the outerwear being a wonderful concentration, something that is a great expansion for the brand. And you cannot forget the wonderful accessories, as well. Interestingly, Lhuillier is demonstrating that she is poised this season to push her brand beyond wonderful red carpet garments. This projection has slowly been taking form over the last couple of season; however, this season this expansion of the brand is now in full throttle.

For those who worship Lhuillier for her red carpet looks there was plenty to go around, still the standouts in this collection were Lhuillier’s outerwear. That said; other standout looks include Lhuillier’s teal leaf jacquard sweater with Alpaca metallic knit rib black silk georgette ruffle neck blouse with embellished ties, jade oversized coat with rose pink flowers, noir gold deco embroidered tulle gown, and cherry embroidered tulle tiered ball gown with blue bell lacquer floral embellishment.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

And one small extra incite about this collection, Monique Lhuillier has joined forces with the likes of Mara Hoffman and some other American designers that had some of their garments immediately available after their fall 2016 runway presentations. Lhuillier had five looks to be exact. Now the question is did the “See Now, Buy Now” business model work? Time will tell.

—William S. Gooch

Desigual Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For several seasons, Desigual has been a foil and competition to similar global brand, Custo Barcelona. Where for the past few years, Desigual has stolen much of Custo Barcelona’s thunder and consumer base, it was still seen in fashion circles as a less expensive alternative to Custo Barcelona without the fashion-as-art–design aesthetic.

That may have changed with Desigual’s fall 2016 collection. Both brands are based in Spain—Custo in Barcelona, Desigual in Madrid—and both brands have established themselves as brand that inject bold color, a kaleidoscope of patterns and fabrications projected through a prism of modernity and fashion-forward sensibility. Still, Desigual has always presented the more wearable collection that has had more an appeal to American consumers. And while every season they have attempted to include more fashion-forward sensibility to their collections, Custo Barcelona still reigns supreme in that respect.

For fall 2016, that design and cultural aesthetic divide has become narrower. Referencing global cultural influences with a heavy nod to the early 1970s, Desigual in this fall 2016 collection has almost caught up to Custo Barcelona, particularly when it comes to now and next aspect of design.

In previous seasons Desigual’s strong point was in the styling of their collections, the bold color and print combinations and the joy and ebullience of their runway presentations. Still, what were absent, at times, was the unique design perspectives. How many shift dresses in glorious color print combinations can continue to excite consumers every season? That design point of view wears its welcome out over time.

Realizing that, Desigual this season put a strong emphasis on design. And it paid off!! This was a collection for that hip fashionista that marches to the beat of her own fashion drum and remains stylish at the same time.

One of the more interesting fabrication combinations in the collection was Desigual’s black and white plaid paired with dark denim or geometric black and white print. An added attraction was the smart Barnaby Street–like caps and chapeaus. Also a standout in this 2016 outing was the richly embroidered overcoats and Russian capes.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Overall, this collection has a richness and texture that was missing in previous showings. Standout looks in this collection include multi-abstract geometric patchwork overcoat with matching turtleneck and printed tights, black and plaid knit overcoat, Russian-print wool-mix overcoat with denim jack and skirt, and faux fur–lined denim vest over floral chiffon blouse and geometric easy pants.

Custo Barcelona, Desigual brought their A-game for fall 2016. It’s time to arm up. The battle is on!!

—William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For fall 2016, Dalmau Custo looked to the 1970s in this 20^th anniversary of the Custo Barcelona brand. Contrary to what Dalmau Custo brings each season; this was a more minimalist, pared down collection. And in some respect that was a good thing.

As a brand Custo Barcelona’s menswear garments have always had more wearability; however, for fall 2016 the brand’s women’s pieces were more wearable without sacrificing the brand’s DNA of quirky, fashion-forward sensibility. Where in past outings, the brand always mixed and matched a wide array of color palettes, fabrications, and textures, for fall 2016 the brand instituted a more pared down approach to the brand’s signature aesthetic.

Dalmau Custo’s restraint produced looks that were more wearable and would perhaps appeal to a wider demographic. For the past few seasons the brand has looked to create garments that were more accessible and appealing to that consumer who is risk taking but still wants wearable clothes. And this new perspective is working for Custo Barcelona.

With Desigual stealing much of the thunder of Custo in recent season and the brand shuttering over 200 stores worldwide, this new business and creative model was necessary. Still, diehard Custo fans were reticent about this new approach, hoping that the brand did not become more commercial and its signature DNA stayed in tact.

The fall 2016 collection demonstrates that Custo’s fan base need not be worried. In this collection entitled “Reborn,” Dalmau Custo repositions the brand and this is evidenced in some of the first looks of the collection. The brand has always been known for creating one-of-a-kind fabrics and textures, and with the creation of the raffia interwoven with a metallic thread combined with a shiny fabric that is a cross between patent leather and vinyl, the brand is staying true to its design aesthetic.

In past seasons, Custo Barcelona’s men’s looks have out trumped the brand’s women’s garments in terms of wearable appeal. However, this season Dalmau Custo minimalist and restrained approach was also applied to the women’s looks, producing garments that would have a wider appeal.

Images courtes of InDigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks include the leopard coat looks combined with black raffia, the purple and white ombre looks, and the brand’s black shiny vinyl ruffled garments. Happy 20^th.

—William S. Gooch

Marcel Ostertag Fall 2016

February 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

In Marcel Ostertag’s debut season at New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS), Ostertag demonstrated that he has a strong sense of style as he mixes lights with darks, and sheer fabrics with heavy wools. Especially elegant is the total sheer burgundy long-sleeve gown that can be worn under his oversized sheer blouses.

Belted coats have been a staple on most runways this season; however, for fall 2016 Marcel Ostertag uses a light blue palette coordinated with shiny silver metallic shorts underneath. This was an unusual departure in that many designers/brands this season showed shorts with high boots and colored hose.

There is a cohesive thread that runs through Ostertag’s fall 2016 collection. Every piece can be worn with other garments in the collection. Most collections seen this season are using neutrals as an industry staple. So does Ostertag; however, Marcel Ostertag uses some black pieces with a military aesthetic along with an amazing navy blue wool jacket with horizontal belting, webbing, and gold ornaments.

The mixture of his ombre grey and burgundy was something new on the runway this season. Ostertag used this color palette pairing in his wrap coats and oversized tops. Though Ostertag’s risks in this collection were subtly restrained, the risks were effective and interesting.

Images courtesy of zimbio.com

Ostertag’s fall 2016 collection included fitted, belted and flowing looks that were very versatile, utilitarian and accessible to a large demographic of sizes and tastes. Some embellishments may have taken away from the silhouettes and may have been over designed; however, Ostertag is on point, and his creativity will prevail. Fashion pundits look forward to his return to NYFWS.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Rubin Singer Fall 2016

February 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Though Rubin Singer is a not a household name, he has been a fashion favorite among industry professional for quite a while. Every season industry professionals anxiously await his shows. And when he doesn’t show, there is a congregational sigh of disappointment.

That said; Singer has dressed dozens of celebrities for red carpet appearances and has appeared in a wide array of high fashion magazines. With his fall 2016 collection, it is just a matter time before Singer becomes well known to the general consumer.

Singer’s fall 2016 collection combines everything that fashion pundits have come to love about his clothes. There is drama, glamour, innovative construction married with luxe fabrications and intricate details. All these wonderful elements are seen through the lens of what the modern women is looking for when it comes high fashion glamour. And what excites fashion pundits and insiders about Singer’s fall 2016 collection is Singer’s acuity at pulling from high fashion‘s past—Balenciaga, Dior, Madame Gres—while keeping this collection fresh and current.

The inspiration for Singer’s fall 2016 collection was a continuation of his spring 2016 mathematical references. Singer’s “Homomorphism” inspiration defined as any given formula that ends up in the same place no matter how many times that formula changes; was the starting point for this collection. From this mathematical vector, Singer morphed into a new direction when it comes to separates, fabrications and daywear to evening wear. These new directions will expand Singer’s consumer base that previously had been focused mostly on evening wear.

That said; Singer always acknowledges architectural structure expressed through a feminine perspective and his fall 2016 collection was no exception. However, this season, Singer’s feminine architectural panache is married with fabrications and techniques that expand Singer’s design palette.

Images courtesy of Rubin Singer

Standout looks in the collection are Singer’s hand-draped applique paillette chiffon “Homomophism” dress, metallic hexagon jacquard halter gown, pale orchid ruffled taffeta blouse with silk panne velvet palazzo pant, and black cashmere dolman sleeve novelty knit with black fils coupe wide leg pant.

—William S. Gooch

Woodhouse Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion editors are always looking for that next designer/brand that is not afraid to take risks and creates a collection that is a combination of the now and next aesthetic that satisfies the ever-changing palette of consumers. It is one thing to whet the evolving style palette; however, it is a challenge to also create garments that predict what consumers will want in their wardrobe before they know.

Woodhouse is an emerging menswear brand that is doing just that. For fall 2016 creative director Julian Woodhouse was inspired by Korean street style and military themes. Being an army brat, Woodhouse drew from personal experience. However, this debut showing during New York Fashion Week: Mens (NYFWM) was much more than that. This collection contained garments that would be a first in most men’s wardrobe.

That said; most of the silhouettes in this collection have been seen before. However, what stands out most in this NYFWM debut collection is Woodhouse’s ability to combine well-known silhouettes—extended crouch pants, padded shoulders, jackets with restrained volume—and funnel these styles through a lens of contemporary style and fashion-forward sensibility.

Though this collection was definitely for a younger consumer with a thirst for the next in menswear fashion, there were some separates that could work for a wider male demographic. And Woodhouse’s utilitarian approach to contemporary menswear was an added plus to this collection. There were jackets with embedded, detachable backpacks, jackets with removable asymmetrical panels, and high-waist pants with a removable train.

Images courtesy of OMEN PR

At times this fall 2016 collection did appear disjointed with some garments that would work mostly in photo editorials. Still, for a debut outing Julian Woodhouse is on the right track. And in a market place with lots of unspectacular, pedestrian collection, Woodhouse is a refreshing addition.

—William S. Gooch