Front Row — Page 50

Perry Ellis Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Perry Ellis has gone through several creative directors since the death of namesake founder Perry Ellis. Each creative director has attempted to put their individual stamp on Perry Ellis; even Marc Jacobs tried when he helmed the brand.

Michael Maccari who has held the title of creative director for two years is having possibly the best run at Perry Ellis. The brand has never looked more vibrant, youthful, and fashion forward without losing its signature aesthetic.

That said; for spring 2017 Maccari expanded the brand’s concept of layering with a nod toward botanical prints. Though this collection would work best for consumers in cooler spring climates, evidenced with all the shirt layering, jackets and long slacks and a darker color palette, there were pieces in the collection that would appeal to consumers that experience warmer temperatures.

There was also a strong active athleisure element to the collection combined with a junior men’s 80s motif. This collection is definitely for the younger consumer that Maccari is aiming for his evolved version of Perry Ellis. And Maccari is right on track with his projection toward a younger consumer, understanding that millenials are less attracted to fabrication and statement garments, leaning more toward utilitarian garments that speak to ease of comfort and destination.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Maccari also reinterpreted the suit for Perry Ellis in this spring collection. In this collection the newly evolved Perry Ellis suit for spring 2017 could be a tracksuit or a deconstructed navy jacquard suit that would work in a relaxed office environment or in a gym.

Standouts in the collection were the graphic rose jacquard bomber in Army with nylon navy crew neck, reflective vest in agave with mesh tan polo, suede bomber in quartz, and jacquard ultra-light suit in navy with knit mesh navy shirt.

—William S. Gooch

ELLERY Resort 2017

June 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by female characters in the 1970s cult film classic, ”The Holy Mountain,“ ELLERY’s Resort 2017 collection projected the brand into new, uncharted territory with an emphasis on psychedelic motifs and alchemy. Though the brand has always been known for its penchant for outré and the avant-garde seen through a prism of modernity and eclecticism, this new injection outré projects ELLERY into the unfamiliar and new and interesting ways.

For those unfamiliar with “The Holy Mountain,” this 70s cult classic centers on a wide range of female characters which include the wife of a weapons manufacturer from Mars, a millionaire art dealer, the alchemist’s assistant, a war toymaker from Saturn, and some prostitutes. Directed by Alejandro Jodorowsky and produced by Beatles manager Allen Klein in 1973 “The Holy Mountain” infuses Japanese Zen philosophy, bold flashes of color, and 70s cinematic experimentation.

Though this collection does reference various motifs from “The Holy Mountain,” the brand stays true to its signature design aesthetic evidenced in restrained volume, monochromatic colors, and ruffled embellishments. This resort 2017 color palette ranges from flamingo pink and lipstick red all the way to khaki, midnight, and liquid silver. A blazing woodcut floral print also features in red and white, as well as sunny yellow.

Garment details are illustrious; hefty gold hardware, zigzag stitching, circular metal studs and glossy D rings. Meanwhile round metallic buttons boldly punctuate blazers, trousers, and fluid silk dresses.

Images courtesy of ELLERY

Since its inception in 2009, ELLERY has become of the go-to brands for that fashionista who loves garments that combine cutting edge fashion with modern innovation. And in an ever-increasing fashion terrain where sameness is becoming the norm, originality and innovative is welcomed!!

—William S. Gooch

Ports 1961 Pre-Spring 2017

June 7, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The fashion industry is always ten steps ahead of what is available to shoppers in major retail stores. Though NYFW: The Shows spring 2017 is three months away, many major brands have already created their pre-spring 2017 collections.

With all the pressure from within the industry and the ever-changing fashion palettes of consumers it is a challenge to create five to eight collections a year—which includes spring/summer; fall/winter/; resort/holiday; pre-spring; pre-fall; maybe a bridal collection, and a couple of capsule collection collaborations. (Remember the major retail stores demand new product every six weeks.)

With all these collections every year, each with its own inspiration, a brand can easily get lost in the shuffle. PORTS 1961 has not only survived the thirst for new product, but is excelling the demand for innovative, fashion-forward garments.

Inspired by the creative process itself, PORTS 1961 hurdles itself into new, uncharted territory for the brand by having experimentation be the heart of their pre-spring 2017 collection. “Our attitude is always one of positivity, of optimism,” explains Nataša Čagalj, creative director. “It is important for us to show that. We always want that spirit of curiosity and experimentation from our design process to carry through into what we produce in our collection.”

This season PORTS 1961 also paid homage to the Italian factories and fabric mills that produce the textiles used in their collections. The brand’s Made in Italy and Work in Progress insignia are reworked to become central components of individual garments.

Images courtesy of PORTS 1961

The color palette for the pre-spring 2017 collection embraces ice cream pastel tones to bold, energetic stripes, prints and textured neutrals. And fabric choices range from woven jacquards, cottons and silk fil coupé, offering an evolved take on traditional shirting and outerwear.

This playful, slightly off-center collection is not for the fashion-shy consumer. However, if you have a penchant for garments that push the proverbial fashion envelope and make you stand out in a crowd, this pre-spring collection is right up your alley!!

—William S. Gooch

Fendi Resort 2017

May 31, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by American quilting, designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi for Fendi’s Resort 2017 collection employed checkered patterns, exotic floral prints, antique Japanese wallpaper, and kaleidoscopic patchwork style placements, as well as bold colors in green, yellow, red, and blues. This incredible crazy quilt of bold colors and patterns in funneled through the lens of modern, sporty elegance with a nod toward a 1970s design aesthetic.

Always known for deep well of knowledge concerning cultural reference, Lagerfeld’s wealth of cultural references is not wasted on this resort collection. And though Lagerfeld is a septuagenarian—74 in fact—his design brilliance is still going strong. Lagerfeld’s ingenious design aesthetic has eagerly adapted the ever-changing world of fashion. Borrowing from silhouettes and styles of the past—and for this Resort 2017 collection, an early 70s design aesthetic—Lagerfeld combines these influences with modern innovation and new textile fabrications.

And though this collection was fashion forward in its scope and incorporation of new artisanal techniques that was a hint whimsy and charm that unfortunately is missing from some of the resort collections of other well-know brands. The whimsical nature of this collection is made evident in off-the-shoulder peasant-like blouses, off-the-shoulder jumpsuits, and half off-the-shoulder peplum tops.

By employing lots of separates in this collection, Venturini Fendi and Lagerfeld have made this Resort 2017 collection more retail friendly and accessible. And the five trench coats in the collection, from the bold yellow to the black trench with Japanese wallpaper embellishment all highlight how Lagerfeld is adept at taking a traditional silhouette and elevating that look to something fresh, current while still being consumer friendly.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Venturini Fendi’s influence is seen in the use of the brand’s signature motif of waves that are peppered throughout the collection. And the use of shaved mink and fluffy hand-trimmed fox used to replicate the wave motif on a short fur jacket also demonstrates that Lagerfeld is still, even at 74, way ahead of the current pack of designers creating for major design houses.

—William S. Gooch

Bottega Veneta Resort 2017

May 24, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Primarily known as an Italian leather goods line for four decades, the brand’s 2017 resort collection continues to confirm that the brand has gone beyond accessories. In 2005 and 2006, respectively, Bottega Veneta presented its first womens and men’s ready-to-wear runway collections. And in the last ten years, Bottega Veneta has established itself as one of the go-to Italian ready-to-wear brands.

For the Resort 2017 collection, creative director Thomas Maier looked to creative a collection that had a strong emphasis on outerwear and strong tailoring. In this collection, Maier plays with different textures and color-blocking motifs that ultimately produced a collection with contrasting prints and patterns.

This Resort 2017’s ultra-feminine coats came in a wide color palette ranging from darker hues, such as deep purple and burgundy, bright yellows, textured greens, and fire reds. And Maier’s loungewear-inspired wrap coats were embellished with lightweight sequins.

Although this collection was heavy on outerwear, Maier did include some eveningwear looks that are a great addition for that consumer that is looking for some elegant evening garments to match the chic daywear looks of this resort collection. And Maier included some outstanding accessories—handbags and retro-inspired round-toed shoes that made this collection really pop.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Standout looks in this Resort 2017 collection include the brand’s yellow day coat with black piping, black leather trench, red leather ensemble with belted jacket, and blue and black terrycloth-like jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Peter Langner Bridal Spring 2017

April 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For his spring bridal 2017 collection, Peter Langner showed both bridal and garments from his fall 2016 eveningwear collection. While is spring 2017 bridal collection was elegant, pristine with a slight nod toward youthful whimsy, Langner’s fall 2016 eveningwear collection was elegant and sophisticated though lacking in youthful vim and vigor.

Our new bridal collection is based on a feeling and spirit rather than a theme or inspiration. Lightness and individuality is the must of this year’s collection. To stand out, to have character and style is our goal,” explained Langner.

And almost any choice for Langner’s bridal spring 2017 collection will make a bride stand out. One can always expect detailed craftsmanship mixed innovative textile fabrication. However, this season Langner incorporated some more ‘fashion as art’ design motifs into this collection. This new creative projection elevated Langner;’s 2017 bridal collection beyond the standard dewy, beautiful expression of one of the most important days in a woman’s life to a collection that possessed edge, a modern sensibility combined a touch of sass and boldness.

Overall, the collection would have been served better if Langner had selected models that a bit more statuesque. Several of the gowns looked badly fitted with hemlines tripping up the diminutive models. Still, the new direction that Langner is taking his bridal collections is much appreciated and should expand his consumer demographic.

Images courtesy of Aurora Rose/wwd.com

Standout looks in this collection include a mermaid gown in Mikado with draped asymmetrical front, sheath gown in crepe cady with embroidered sleeves and chiffon cubes, ball gown in Guipure lace with deep V neckline, and embroidered high-neck mermaid gown in silk organza.

—William S. Gooch

Vera Wang Bridal Spring 2017

April 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Realizing that New York International Bridal Week is more than a plethora of white gowns, Vera Wang went for the something different and unique. For spring 2017, Vera Wang debuted her bridal collection “Chasing Alix” with a short film. That’s right, a film not a runway presentation.

“I always envision my wedding collections within a certain cohesive paradigm … not literal, but suggestive… not trendy, but highly personal… Chasing Alix was an ode to the famous French couturier Madame Grés, whose manipulation of fabric resulted in some of the most modern and timeless gowns in fashion history and a woman designer from whom I have always derived great inspiration,” said Wang. Hotel Madrid expressed a sensuality, sexuality, and Spanish love of dance. Désir à L’Anglaise celebrates the profound restraint of the British monarchy, the grandeur of English aristocracy, and the drama of real ball gowns within the context of today.”

No stranger to nontraditional wedding collections—a few seasons back Wang created a bridal collection entirely of red and pink bridal gowns—and after three decades in the fashion industry Wang consistently attempts to expand her design aesthetic beyond what is expected, whether in design, concept or presentation.

That said; “Chasing Alix” is Wang’s second bridal film and she continues along her trajectory of being inspired by Spanish motifs. Like the iconic Madame Grés, there was an exciting injection of rouching and unique layering of fabrics.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Still, what stands out about this spring 2017 collection is the incredible softness and lushness of the collection. This collection evokes fantasy, whimsy, and modern sophistication, everything a young bride is looking for.

Bravo to Vera Wang for continuing to push the envelope and expanding bridal collection beyond just a pretty white gown.

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

While floral blossoms or spring gardens may not be such an original idea for spring bridal collections, Ines Di Santo found a way in her spring 2017 collection to keep this tried-and-true bridal motif fresh and current. And what was great starting point for the collection was Di Santo’s floral decoration on the proscenium arch of the runway entrance.

For spring 2017 Ines Di Santo to looked to a beautiful garden with its variety of spring blossoms; a typical spring bridal reference; however, Ines Di Santo made it her own. Di Santo understands how to mix just the right combination of floral appliques, embellishments and layers of lace, tulle and organza with modern silhouettes to appeal to the modern bride without seeming encumbered or overdone.

Granted there was an element of frothiness and frivolity in this spring 2017 outing. (Very low-dipped décolletage buttressed by a slight over abundance of floral appliques and embellishments on bridal shrugs and capes did pop up in this collection, but that is to be expected from Di Santo.) Still, if there is a day to have frothy glamour and whimsical fancy, a spring/summer wedding fits the bill.

What stands out most about this collection is that season after season Di Santo is able to hold true to her brand’s DNA of glamorous, couture-like bridal without appearing out of touch with what modern, young brides want to wear. As with many bridal collections this season, the high/low gowns were the standouts. And Di Santo did an excellent job of showcasing high/low gowns in this collection, all staying within her signature design aesthetic of sensual couture-like bridal garment the emphasize the feminine silhouette.

Di Santo, true to form, also includes several mermaid silhouettes with sexy illusions, corsets, and cutouts. When some designers employ these potentially sexy elements, the bridal collections come off a bit tasteless, minimizing the beauty of the gown. Di Santo doesn’t have that challenge, the injection of sensuality never comes across as overtly kittenish or salacious; Di Santo’s brand of sensuality is beautifully balanced with her signature design aesthetic and seasonal motif.

Images courtesy of Rodin Banica/wwd.com

Though there several standout gowns in this spring 2017 collection, standouts include this season sheer pink floral jumpsuit with detachable peplum miniskirt, silk and organza low dipped fit-to-flare peplum gown with floral appliques, and floral pink and green one-shoulder ball gown which was the showstopper of the collection.

—William S. Gooch

Rivini by Rita Visnieris Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

With Rivini by Rita Visnieris you always get fashion-forward sensibility displayed through an arch of beauty and innovation. And her spring 2017 bridal was no exception.

For spring 2017, Vinieris looked to the sensuality and romance of the California dreamer. “Romance meets sexy meets California dreamer. The soul of each dress is explored through the chaos of textures in layered transparencies mixed with floral laces, glistening beading and hints of subtle color,” detailed Rita Visnieris.

Simple soft lines and her meticulous attention details balance Visnieris’ miasma of texture and embellishments. And unlike previous outings, this spring 2017 collection embraces a wide range of silhouettes from mermaid, ball gown and fit-to-flare silhouettes to column and sheath silhouettes.

Visnieris also ingeniously incorporated sheer overlay shrugs and capelets attached by lacey high collars that produced a modern take on a Victorian aesthetic. And though Visnieris did push the proverbial bridal envelope with transparent overlays and beaded fringe embellishments that gave a nod to youthful, whimsical lightness—evidenced in Visnieris’ lace slip gowns and silk crepe sheath with translucent bodice—for the most part this collection leaned more toward the tried-and-true traditional bridal looks. This point of view also applies to Visnieris’ Alyne spring 2017 collection that was showcased earlier.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection are the corseted translucent mermaid in a mix of Alencon lace with body veil, demure Alencon lace slip with beaded fringe gilet, voluminous bias layered silk organza ball gown with tattooed lace, and hand-beaded sheath with flare in hand textured beading technique and corseted bodice with body veil.

—William S. Gooch

Mira Zwillinger Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

For spring 2017 Mira Zwillinger looked to nature’s annual rebirth for inspiration. The reawakening of spring was a design motif seen in several bridal collections for spring 2017. However, of all the collections that looked to this reference for their spring 2017 collections—Ines di Santo, Anne Barge, and Vera Wang—perhaps Mira Zwillinger’s spring 2017 bridal collection best reflected the charm and vitality of a newly awakened spring garden.

In past collections the Zwillinger design team of Lihi and Mira Zwillinger has included verdant vine-like embellishments on their bridal gowns. That said; the incorporation of that design motif is not a surprise for this spring 2017 collection; however, this time around the design duo expanded that particular spring design motif to include hand-cut floral appliques and entwined branch embroidery on the bodices of the bridal gowns.

There was also a whimsical, fantasy aura around the collection this season that was missed in previous outings. Though at times there was a duplication of bridal gowns seen earlier in the front half of the collections. And some of the bridal gowns did look as though they may have fit nicely in a fall/winter bridal collection.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Still, overall this was a beautiful spring 2017 collection and it’s apparent that the Zwillinger team is looking to expand their market to a younger bridal demographic. Standout bridal gowns in this collection include the brand’s one-shoulder plissé silk tulle frock with beaded branch embroidery, beaded fit-to-flare long-sleeved gown with crystal and sequined embellishments, and strapless column gown with floral appliques.

—William S. Gooch