Front Row — Page 49

Parke & Ronen Spring 2017

July 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Like many menswear brands this season, Parke & Ronen did not attempt to reinvent the wheel this time. Then again, Parke & Ronen never strays from their design asesthetic, and there is some comfort in that.

Every season fashion editors and consumers can rest assured that Parke & Ronen will present all-American sportswear for that consumer that is has a youthful projection and is in good shape. That is made evident in the choice of male models the brands choose every season. If any thing has changed over the last few seasons is Parke & Ronen’s idea of the sporty-guy-next-door has expanded to include men of color with dreads and untamed hair, as well as white models with an array of tattoos, beards and unruly hair. In that respect, Parke & Ronen is starting to embrace the way the world actually looks.

For spring 2017 the brand was inspired by a collegiate/Ivy League aesthetic as seen through the lens of six packs, defined torsos, and very fitted garments. The brand has used a varsity reference in the past; however, this season the reference contains a lot more bold colors and sea life prints. Parke & Ronen also employed some interesting color blocking in the collection.

What stood out most in this spring 2017 outing were the color-blocked varsity jackets paired with interesting array of prints. And where the previous collegiate-inspired collection was more focused on a very young consumer, this spring 2017 collection contained pieces that could be mixed and matched as separates that could work with other items in any man’s wardrobe, regardless of the consumers’ age.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

Standout looks in the collection are the brand’s Letterman “P” sweater in navy/cotton viscose, stretch Poplin shirt in navy tropical print, Boater stripe Blazer in steel blue cotton/nylon twill with peony printed Chambray shirt, color block knit polo in sky and ivory cotton/viscose with Derby track trouser in navy double-knit twill, and varsity squad jacket in canary palm print with cropped tailgate tee in Kelly multi.

—William S. Gooch

Coach Menswear Spring 2017

July 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

In its 75-year history Coach has gone through a lot of changes and has evolved from just an accessories companies known originally for its quality billfolds and wallets to a brand that has expanded to handbags and most recently ready-to-wear jackets and garments. Coach’s most illustrious alumni, Reed Krakoff, left the Coach helm to launch his own eponymous brand.

Stuart Vevers, hired in 2014, is the current creative director. And under his leadership Vevers has plunged Coach into new waters. Coach’s spring 2017 collection is ample evidence of this new direction; a new direction that is reaping annual profits of over $4.24 billion dollars.

The signature Coach aesthetic of easy, non-cluttered accessibility is still in place. Still, Vevers is seeking to push the brand in a more forward-thinking direction. For spring 2017 Vevers created the 1941 collection in honor of the year Coach came into existence.

Inspired by the tee shirt and iconic films that have identifiably American sportswear separates and wardrobe staples, “Rebel Without a Cause,” “My Private Idaho,” and even an episode from “The Twilight Zone” entitled “Black Leather Jackets,” Vevers pairs these looks with Coach’s signature look of American accessibility. Vevers additionally, has played with the idea of bringing customization to classic American sportswear items we all love; jeans, jacket, penny loafers and of course tee shirts.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

Coach’s brand of customization for the 1941 collection is made evident in penny loafers with studs, spray-painted black moto jackets, and jackets with badges. The question to be asked is if the Coach customer will go for this new evolved Coach. My bet is a resounding, yes!!

—William S. Gooch

Zachary Prell Spring 2017

July 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For the spring 2017 men’s wear collections, the 80s ruled!! From Robert Geller to Artistix to Brett Johnson, the 1980s provided lots of reference points and inspiration this season. Now you can add Zachary Prell to this coterie of menswear designers inspired by the 80s.

One could ask what is so attractive about the 1980s that so many American menswear brands are looking to that era for inspiration. Perhaps, the attraction has to do with the 80s being one of the first time American men’s sportswear brands used bold color with a small injection of androgyny and out-of-the-box design aesthetics. Also, the 80s was a fashion era where designers could surreptitiously expand the design and color palette without the male consumer realizing he was being introduced to a new way of looking at male fashion. And lastly, the 80s was the first time menswear began to be force all of its own. It was era where it was acceptable for men to love clothes and not apologize for it!!

That said: Zachary Prell injected lots of color into his spring 2017 collection, from rich indigo blues to pale pastels and neutrals. In this reason of 80s reflection, Prell a wide variety of jacket silhouettes and suit separates. And reminiscent of the 80s—revisit Miami Vice, American Gigolo, and Pretty in Pink—there were lots of rolled-up shirts and jacket sleeves, pleated shorts, and high shorts that showed muscled thighs.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

Though this spring 2017 collection was a journey down memory land, breaking no new fashion rules, Prell did showcase an American sportswear collection that was attractive, consumer-friendly and would have appeal to millenials who are more influenced by destination than chic style.

—William S. Gooch

Carlos Campos Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Cuba keeps providing inspiration for menswear designers. A few seasons back, David Hart was inspired by the Cuban nightlife of the 1950s, while this season Nick Graham created a fantastic runway presentation inspired by Cuban culture replete with scantily clad Samba dancers. And Carlos Campos was also influenced by Cuba, more specifically the culture that emanates of its tobacco plantations.

Then again, Carlos Campos, a fashion designer who deems himself a cultural nomad, usually references Latin themes and motifs. For his fall 2016 collection, Campos referenced the “Forastero, or the outsider, a common theme in Latin American literature.

That said; there was a quiet elegance to Campos’ fall 2016 collection that was missing in this spring 2017 collection. Though there was a restrained sophistication to this spring 2017 collection, as we have come to expect with Campos, with a few exceptions, overall this outing was underwhelming. Perhaps, like many menswear designers this season Campos was aiming for clothes that had an obvious retails value, causing him to extract some of the wow factor that has worked for him in previous collections. Whatever the reason for the rather pedestrian look of Campos’ spring 2017 collection, if he had only turned the volume up just a smidgen this collection would have been on target.

In this collection Campos reinterpreted the traditional Cuban guayabera shirt, elongated in Campos ‘Jackabera ‘ version. There was even a reinterpretation of the male jumpsuit with cargo pant–like pockets—unfortunately, Campos’ male jumpsuit slightly resembled an garage attendant’s uniform. True to form there was Campos’ penchant for a monochromatic color palette of Campos’s signature navy blue, whites and military olive.

Image courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

Still, with the exception of some of the graphic print separates, this collection fell a little flat. Better luck next time!!

—William S. Gooch

Landlord Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

In their debut collection for New York Fashion Week: Men’s Japanese menswear brand Landlord drew inspiration from the art works of Isa Genzken. German artist Isa Genzken is known for art installations and sculptures that used everyday materials of textiles, wood, concrete and plaster.

This sophomore fashion collection from the Landlord design team demonstrated the fusion of urban street culture with contemporary art. This synthesis of modern art and urban culture has been uses by many menswear brands before, particularly those menswear brands where street culture is their raison d’etre. (Think New York Fashion Week regulars Kye, General Idea, Concept Korea brands, Skingraft, and Siki Im.)

That said; Landlord does not reinvent the fashion wheel on urban street wear. However, the brand does inject some interesting elements that if continued on their current trajectory could lend some uniqueness. The brand’s use of bold, almost fluorescent color was an added bonus to the collection. And the collection was extremely wearable without sacrificing design aesthetics. There were also great separates that could be mixed and matched.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones/fashionreverie.com

Standout looks in the collection were the brand’s brown mustard nylon jacket with matching shorts, oversized azure blue shirt with lime trim and matching shorts, and caution orange jacket with matching orange shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Brett Johnson Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Brett Johnson got it right the second time around. After a rather lackluster debut during New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) last season, Johnson came back with a vengeance to prove the naysayers wrong. (Fashion Reverie was one of the dissenting voices.

With fashion stylist June Ambrose having a stronger hand on this NYFWM’s sophomore collection and going back to his collegiate alma mater roots in Arizona, Johnson produced a collection that was current, stylish, and globally retail friendly. Though Johnson’s NYFWM debut collection had some market viability, the collection was not fashion forward and would, perhaps, appeal to more parochial menswear consumers.

However, for spring 2017 Johnson has really stepped up his game. Perhaps, he listened to the many fashion pundits that were underwhelmed by his inchoate fall 2016 collection.

That said; Johnson’s muted, desert color palette of dusty salmon, cactus green, rust, pale blues, and sun bleached tans really helped carry this desert-inspired collection. And though this collection was focused on the international fashion savvy consumer who wants to look great while luxuriating during his downtime or on vacation, the traditional silhouettes employed by Johnson would appeal to the male customer who just wants to add some cool clothes to his wardrobe.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standout looks in this collection include dusty salmon jacket and shorts set, chambray banded-collar shirt paired with Japanese denim pants, and dusty salmon linen double-breasted blazer.

—William S. Gooch

Nautica Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

How do you take a menswear brand that has a signature DNA and keep the collections fresh and relevant season after season? If you don’t know the answer, then look to Nautica.

Does Nautica bring in different silhouettes every season? No. Does the brand incorporate innovative textile techniques and fabrications every season? Not necessarily. However, Nautica manages every fashion season to evolve their design aesthetic, embracing a wide male demographic. Whether the male consumer is looking for a more streamlined, fitting silhouette or bold neon colors, Nautica finds a way to incorporate the expanding male design palette into their signature design aesthetic. Which is not an easy thing to do, being that Nautica’s DNA centers around American nautical sportswear.

For spring 2917 Nautica was inspired by the modern Riviera with its coastline of rich nautical colors of aqua and sky blues and sand whites. Nautica seeks in this spring 2017 collection to reimagine the Riviera coastline with its mix of international cultures, travelers, and the fun and seaside activities that are a part of the Riviera lifestyle.

Different from previous runway shows and presentations, Nautica includes some female models as a part of its Riviera fashion tableau. And by introducing its spring 2017 collection as a presentation instead a runway show, the brand was able to handedly conjure up images of the modern Riviera lifestyle. (Models strolling down a runway would have just been another dissertation on Nautica’s usual nautical aesthetic.) And you cannot deny Nautica’s inclusion of a diverse group of top models—Chad White, Adonis Bosso, David Agbodji, and Jae Yoo.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standout looks from the spring 2017 collection were the brand’s Sting Ray yellow stretch twill Barricuda jacket with navy rayon Breton sweater, bright white nylon print Anorak with bright with nylon print board short, sail white stretch linen blazer with jet navy nylon sail stitch board short, and jet navy stretch twill schooner jacket with jet navy nylon print board short.

—William S. Gooch

Robert Geller Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Robert Geller is a fashion editor’s designer. Now, what does that mean? A fashion editor’s designer translates into those designers who every season have a very strong reference point for their collections and who easily translate that inspiration into garments that are fashion forward, current, but also have strong retail value. Robert Geller is one such designer.

For spring 2017 Geller was inspired by the German youth art culture of the early 1980s. An irreverent youth explosion that leaned toward experimentation and DIY know-how fueled this 80s German art movement. Out of this phenomenon grew a burgeoning music and club scene, alternative magazines and zeitgeist, as well as some interesting street culture.

Geller has brilliantly translated this art scene of more than 30 years ago into a relevant, yet retail friendly collection that though reminiscent of a 80s fashion and pop music aesthetic seen in the US—think Tears for Fears, Thompson Twins, and Spandau Ballet—still has value to the modern male consumer.

At first glance, the unskilled eye would recognize these familiar 80s silhouettes and see nothing particularly innovative about the collection. However, at further examination, this collection speaks to genius of Geller’s ability to borrow from the past and pair his separates with expanded shapes and interesting textiles and colors in ways not quite seen before.

Geller takes the DIY spirit of that time and fusing that energy into man bags that resemble record albums. Geller also juxtaposes restrained volume against streamlined silhouettes evidenced in oversized pants paired with narrow jackets.

Though the color palettes is borders on a fall/winter palette scheme, Geller mixes these rather drab colors with the bold colors of magenta, fuchsia, and bright orange which expresses the peripatetic nature of that era. Geller also demonstrates his keen sense of experimentation by placing Polaroid appliques on everything from man bags to shirts and jackets.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standouts in this collection are Geller’s charcoal black leopard jacquard sweater with charcoal/black leopard rose jacket, lime green Geron mock neck tee shirt with grey Robert blazer, black L/S shirt with green Cupro short, and fuchsia Geron S/S mock neck tee shirt wit black Robert blazer.

—William S. Gooch

Artistix Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The 80s are back. Then again, did they ever really go away? If you are old enough to remember 80s style or you just source 80s culture via youtube videos, 80s style was a true amalgam of music, street fashion, and political influences. (Think Boy George’s mix of punk fashion, androgyny, underground club culture, and street style.)

And remember there was no singular 80s fashion aesthetic. From early hip hop culture of oversized bling to an expanded color palette for menswear evidenced in slick slacks and jackets to the street vibe of punk, the 80s expressed an uninhibited fashion freedom that could only be matched by the 1960s.

Since 2013 Artistix has been the creative fashion palette of artist Greg Polisseni. Using Artistix as his fashion canvas, Polisseni infuses Artistix with his particular oeuvre for edgy street art. And Polisseni’s penchant for abstract street art is evidenced in a spring 2017 collection that uses Polisseni’s abstract art as digital embellishments on 80s menswear silhouettes.

Lapels were imprinted with Polisseni’s abstract images, as well as vests, pants and tees. An interesting concepts; however, what stood out most with this spring 2017 collection was how Polisseni, with the assistance of Andy Hilfiger, managed to combined his digital street abstracts with an 80s aesthetic and still keep the collection fresh and current.

Images courtesy of Evil Genius Group/Jason Conrad

Standout looks in the collection were the brand’s white sport jacket printed lapel with white printed moto pants, white leather printed lapel with black printed vest and black jeans, white printed coveralls with white tee with printed sleeves and black denim jacket wit printed sleeve and white printed shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Suitsupply Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin 2 Comments

Images courtesy of fashionisto.com

A supermodel once told me that, “it takes charm to open the door and charm to keep the doors open.” While those words of wisdom can be applied to any industry, those pearls of wisdom are more aptly true in fashion.

As a brand, Suitsupply does not recreate the proverbial fashion envelope or even re-establish men’s suiting. What the brand does, however, is bring consistent charm to a classic male silhouette, making menswear consumers rethink men’s suiting and continue their love affair with jackets and slacks.

Images courtesy of Suitsupply

And for spring 2017, the charm started with male models bicycling down Broome Street, looking like elegant English gentlemen on their way to classes at Oxford minus the once-mandatory student gowns. (Imagine Peter O’Toole in the cult classic “Goodbye Mr. Chips”.)

Inspired by the midcentury Bauhaus art movement whose focus was on functional beauty or more aptly penned “Art into industry,” Suitsupply applied this beautiful functionality into spring/summer essentials that have strong focus on good design that is streamlined into everyday life. Suitsupply demonstrated this design concept by employing lightweight fabrics—linens blended with cashmere, silk, and cotton—and a restrained tonal palette of off whites, burnt orange, grass, and dark navy.

Images courtesy of fashionisto.com

By using lightweight fabrics and a restrained tonal palette, Suitsupply facilitates appropriate seasonal layering which correlates to brand’s secondary theme of international travel. Remember, contemporary menswear fashion is global and spring/summer travel requires garments that can easily be mixed and matched, layered and stripped down.

That said; Suitsupply’s current dissertation on spring/summer suiting, though grounded in traditional masculine silhouettes, expands consumers’ choices around suiting. And Suitsupply’s streamlined approach to suiting, shirts and vests is in line with what the dapper well-dressed gent wants!!

—William S. Gooch