Front Row — Page 49

Vera Wang Bridal Spring 2017

April 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Realizing that New York International Bridal Week is more than a plethora of white gowns, Vera Wang went for the something different and unique. For spring 2017, Vera Wang debuted her bridal collection “Chasing Alix” with a short film. That’s right, a film not a runway presentation.

“I always envision my wedding collections within a certain cohesive paradigm … not literal, but suggestive… not trendy, but highly personal… Chasing Alix was an ode to the famous French couturier Madame Grés, whose manipulation of fabric resulted in some of the most modern and timeless gowns in fashion history and a woman designer from whom I have always derived great inspiration,” said Wang. Hotel Madrid expressed a sensuality, sexuality, and Spanish love of dance. Désir à L’Anglaise celebrates the profound restraint of the British monarchy, the grandeur of English aristocracy, and the drama of real ball gowns within the context of today.”

No stranger to nontraditional wedding collections—a few seasons back Wang created a bridal collection entirely of red and pink bridal gowns—and after three decades in the fashion industry Wang consistently attempts to expand her design aesthetic beyond what is expected, whether in design, concept or presentation.

That said; “Chasing Alix” is Wang’s second bridal film and she continues along her trajectory of being inspired by Spanish motifs. Like the iconic Madame Grés, there was an exciting injection of rouching and unique layering of fabrics.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Still, what stands out about this spring 2017 collection is the incredible softness and lushness of the collection. This collection evokes fantasy, whimsy, and modern sophistication, everything a young bride is looking for.

Bravo to Vera Wang for continuing to push the envelope and expanding bridal collection beyond just a pretty white gown.

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

While floral blossoms or spring gardens may not be such an original idea for spring bridal collections, Ines Di Santo found a way in her spring 2017 collection to keep this tried-and-true bridal motif fresh and current. And what was great starting point for the collection was Di Santo’s floral decoration on the proscenium arch of the runway entrance.

For spring 2017 Ines Di Santo to looked to a beautiful garden with its variety of spring blossoms; a typical spring bridal reference; however, Ines Di Santo made it her own. Di Santo understands how to mix just the right combination of floral appliques, embellishments and layers of lace, tulle and organza with modern silhouettes to appeal to the modern bride without seeming encumbered or overdone.

Granted there was an element of frothiness and frivolity in this spring 2017 outing. (Very low-dipped décolletage buttressed by a slight over abundance of floral appliques and embellishments on bridal shrugs and capes did pop up in this collection, but that is to be expected from Di Santo.) Still, if there is a day to have frothy glamour and whimsical fancy, a spring/summer wedding fits the bill.

What stands out most about this collection is that season after season Di Santo is able to hold true to her brand’s DNA of glamorous, couture-like bridal without appearing out of touch with what modern, young brides want to wear. As with many bridal collections this season, the high/low gowns were the standouts. And Di Santo did an excellent job of showcasing high/low gowns in this collection, all staying within her signature design aesthetic of sensual couture-like bridal garment the emphasize the feminine silhouette.

Di Santo, true to form, also includes several mermaid silhouettes with sexy illusions, corsets, and cutouts. When some designers employ these potentially sexy elements, the bridal collections come off a bit tasteless, minimizing the beauty of the gown. Di Santo doesn’t have that challenge, the injection of sensuality never comes across as overtly kittenish or salacious; Di Santo’s brand of sensuality is beautifully balanced with her signature design aesthetic and seasonal motif.

Images courtesy of Rodin Banica/wwd.com

Though there several standout gowns in this spring 2017 collection, standouts include this season sheer pink floral jumpsuit with detachable peplum miniskirt, silk and organza low dipped fit-to-flare peplum gown with floral appliques, and floral pink and green one-shoulder ball gown which was the showstopper of the collection.

—William S. Gooch

Rivini by Rita Visnieris Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

With Rivini by Rita Visnieris you always get fashion-forward sensibility displayed through an arch of beauty and innovation. And her spring 2017 bridal was no exception.

For spring 2017, Vinieris looked to the sensuality and romance of the California dreamer. “Romance meets sexy meets California dreamer. The soul of each dress is explored through the chaos of textures in layered transparencies mixed with floral laces, glistening beading and hints of subtle color,” detailed Rita Visnieris.

Simple soft lines and her meticulous attention details balance Visnieris’ miasma of texture and embellishments. And unlike previous outings, this spring 2017 collection embraces a wide range of silhouettes from mermaid, ball gown and fit-to-flare silhouettes to column and sheath silhouettes.

Visnieris also ingeniously incorporated sheer overlay shrugs and capelets attached by lacey high collars that produced a modern take on a Victorian aesthetic. And though Visnieris did push the proverbial bridal envelope with transparent overlays and beaded fringe embellishments that gave a nod to youthful, whimsical lightness—evidenced in Visnieris’ lace slip gowns and silk crepe sheath with translucent bodice—for the most part this collection leaned more toward the tried-and-true traditional bridal looks. This point of view also applies to Visnieris’ Alyne spring 2017 collection that was showcased earlier.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection are the corseted translucent mermaid in a mix of Alencon lace with body veil, demure Alencon lace slip with beaded fringe gilet, voluminous bias layered silk organza ball gown with tattooed lace, and hand-beaded sheath with flare in hand textured beading technique and corseted bodice with body veil.

—William S. Gooch

Mira Zwillinger Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

For spring 2017 Mira Zwillinger looked to nature’s annual rebirth for inspiration. The reawakening of spring was a design motif seen in several bridal collections for spring 2017. However, of all the collections that looked to this reference for their spring 2017 collections—Ines di Santo, Anne Barge, and Vera Wang—perhaps Mira Zwillinger’s spring 2017 bridal collection best reflected the charm and vitality of a newly awakened spring garden.

In past collections the Zwillinger design team of Lihi and Mira Zwillinger has included verdant vine-like embellishments on their bridal gowns. That said; the incorporation of that design motif is not a surprise for this spring 2017 collection; however, this time around the design duo expanded that particular spring design motif to include hand-cut floral appliques and entwined branch embroidery on the bodices of the bridal gowns.

There was also a whimsical, fantasy aura around the collection this season that was missed in previous outings. Though at times there was a duplication of bridal gowns seen earlier in the front half of the collections. And some of the bridal gowns did look as though they may have fit nicely in a fall/winter bridal collection.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Still, overall this was a beautiful spring 2017 collection and it’s apparent that the Zwillinger team is looking to expand their market to a younger bridal demographic. Standout bridal gowns in this collection include the brand’s one-shoulder plissé silk tulle frock with beaded branch embroidery, beaded fit-to-flare long-sleeved gown with crystal and sequined embellishments, and strapless column gown with floral appliques.

—William S. Gooch

Jenny Packham Bridal Spring 2017

April 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Is red carpet or is it bridal? With Jenny Packham it is always beautiful, still, was her spring 2017 a true bridal collection or something else?

Well, one thing for sure Packham’s spring 2017 collection was a little bit country. That said; this season Jenny Packham proved that bridal can be a lot of things; red carpet, country music–inspired and of course, bridal.

With Packham’s fashion collections there is always lots of embellishments, beading, sequins and red-carpet fabrications. That also carries over to Packham’s wedding collections. One of Packham’s signature aesthetic sequined caped sleeves carries over to this spring 2017 bridal collection. Still, what stands out about this collection is that the bridal gowns this season could also work as red carpet gowns. Additionally, Jenny Packham used a Country Western theme as the setting for her spring 2017 collection with bales of hay, a Midwestern general goods store and Country Western music as a backdrop.

You may ask what this Country Western–motif have to do with a bridal collection? That relationship may be hard to fathom. However, modern bridal collection go way behind white bridal gowns and the modern draws her inspiration from lots of references. Jenny Packham with this Country Western–theme has tapped into that bride. And if you closely examine Country Music Award shows many of the red carpet looks are heavily embellished gowns with lots of sequins, crystals and beading. Not a wide stretch from Packham’s signature DNA, and there is some symbiosis there!!

Images courtesy of Thomas Iannaconne/wwd.com

There was also a bohemian gypsy spirit to the collection evidenced in some the loose, billowing quality of the gowns, bell and Dolman sleeves, and the models slightly mused hair. Though there was a bit tongue-and-cheek to the collection, Packham’s exquisite tailoring and the sparkling brilliance of the gowns helped keep the collection solidly in the category of a modern bridal collection.

—William S. Gooch

Galia Lahav Bridal Spring 2017

April 16, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

For those bridal devotees not familiar with Galia Lahav, Galia Lahav is a haute couture designer that presents her couture collections in Paris every season. Her bridal collections often reflect her current haute couture collection. Lahav’s bridal collection are made of the finest fabrications and like her haute couture collections reflect the brand’s DNA of modern sophistication, intricate detailing and highest aspect of couture design.

For spring bridal 2017 Lahav looked to love without boundaries as the theme for her collection. Where in past showings during New York International Bridal Week Lahav would have an exquisite runway presentation, this season Lahav went for a a more subtle presentation of models positioned against a open field tableau with samples for some the brand’s haute couture collections in an adjoining room on mannequins. The juxtaposition of both aspects of the Lahav brand gave industry professionals the unique opportunity to witness the influence of the brand’s haute couture collections on the bridal collection.

That said; Lahav’s spring bridal 2017 collection, entitled “Le Secret Royal,” explores how boundless love should make a bride feel regal and sophisticated. This sense of sophistication and queenliness is expressed in floral embellishments on the gowns that evoke the essence of regal poise. The glamorous shades of pink and rose conjure up images of strolling through royal gardens, while the petal details, sequined embellishment and extravagant silhouettes portend the aristocratic leanings of the collection.

Images courtesy of Galia Lahav

As always with Lahav, there is an interesting injection of sensuality evidenced in low décolletage and form-fitting silhouettes. Standouts in the collection include Lahav’s mermaid gown with clear glass beading with trompe l’oiel embroidery, strapless corset mermaid gown with royal vine pattern and silver and clear crystals, and the ‘Rihanna’ mermaid silhouette with sheer sides with embroidered tulle and pieces of ash-colored tulle.

—William S. Gooch

Anne Barge Bridal Spring 2017

April 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are looking for beautiful, traditional bridal designs, Anne Barge immediately comes to mind. However, if you have been following the brand for the past few seasons, Anne Barge has expanded her brand beyond traditional bridal fare. True, you will find the traditional bridal silhouettes—fit-to-flare, mermaid, princess ball gown, and even high-low gowns—still Barge understands that creating beautiful gowns with flourishes of lace, tulle and detailed embroidery is not enough.

For spring 2017, Barge was inspired by the awakening of spring gardens, still covered in frost, with dewy petals peeking through the early morning frost. This dewy freshness was made evident in cascading pearls and ice-like sparkling crystals that referenced the dawn of an early spring morning, not quite ripe, nascent and blushingly beautiful.

Barge has forged an entire career out of making beautiful bridal gowns in the traditional mode. That brand DNA is still in place. Still, for spring 2017 Barge is projecting her brand toward a more youthful bride. This projection is made obvious in some of the high-low looks and in the cascading pearls down the back of the gowns and over the shoulders.

Barge’s reference of an awakening spring gardens takes a nod to the freshness and perhaps, unspoiled nature of youth. And where in previous outings Barge’s bridal collection had more of an appeal to a more traditional, conservative bridal consumer, for spring 2017 Barge’s design aesthetic is more appealing to a wider bridal demographic.

Images courtesy of Anne Barge/Dan Lecca

Standouts in the collection are Barge’s modified mermaid gown with sheer, deep V-neck bodice with Alencon lace appliques and lattice-inspired embroidery, cocktail length Chantilly dress with beaded Alencon lace overlay with tulle overskirt, stretch crepe column gown with bateau neckline with illusion back, and strapless high-low gown of silk Mikado with beaded lace appliques and pockets.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Spring 2017

April 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Theia’s creative director Don O’Neill demonstrates every season that bridal can be so much more than a white dress. And this season O’Neill expanded his bridal design aesthetic to include otherworldly, futuristic bridal designs that pushes the bridal genre into the next century.

Inspired by David Bowie’s “The Man Who Fell to Earth” and a Rafal Makiela underwater photograph of a figure shrouded in white having plunged thru the silvery surface, O’Neill’s spring 2017 bride looks to the unpredictable future where there is no restraint and personal preference is the order of the day. O’Neill’s spring 2017 bride also transcends traditional and marches to the beat of her own drum which in this collection is the rhythm of freedom and galactic surprise.

Where some bridal pundits may feel that Don O’Neill’s bridal collections are heavy on concept and storytelling and short on retail value, some of them fail to understand that niche markets are becoming much larger and mass consumption is losing market value. Consider most of the major fashion brands whose stock value continues to plummet as they frantically search for new creative directors that can satisfy an ever-evolving consumer palette for innovative design. Bridal, with the exception of discount bridal boutiques, has not necessarily been a mass-market industry. And where some designers, season after season, attempt to appeal to that bridal consumer that is in the market for traditional bridal gowns, the true design artist of the industry are aiming for niche markets.

That said, Don O’Neill is right on track!! And where this outing was a bit of stretch, the fashionista bridal consumer will be delighted!! Consider, O’Neill through a lot of interesting concepts into this pot and what rose to the surface is something for almost everyone.

For the bride that wanted something a bit more casual and fashion forward, Theia’s spring 2017 collection there was an ivory satin back crepe and Chantilly lace souvenir jacket over Chantilly lace skirt. If you are the market for 1960’s edgy look there was a white silk crepe and vinyl gown with steel grommets and silk organza ruffle. And that bride that wanted to really startle as she glides down the aisle there was O’Neill’s white silk crepe silk dress with fractal patterned-raffia embroidered vortex collar jacket and the molded crystal corset over white silk crepe skirt.

Also, consider the future names: solar sail halter gown; white interstellar radio wave–patterned sequin gown; galactic blue silk lame jacquard gown, and “Star Light” embroidered gown. Definitely, not a bridal collection for the faint of heart or shrinking violet, but Theia’s bridal collections never are!!

Images courtesy of Rodin Banica/wwd.com

Stick to your guns, Don O’Neill. Contrary to what some bridal critics believe, the American bridal consumer is ready for you!!

—William S. Gooch

Georgine Fall 2016

February 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For fall 2016 Georgine design aesthetic expanded the plethora of storybook pretty to storybook vamp. Though some fashion pundits may contend that the fall 2016 collection lacked cohesion without a true center, Georgine is catering to that consumer that dresses in a wide variety of styles and trends and is always including some garments in their wardrobe that have shock value.

With such an assemblage of garments that could appeal to a wide demographic, one would assume that Georgine has yet not discovered their customer base. Not true!! At closer examination, though were varying design aesthetics in the fall 2016 collection, what was consistent throughout the outing was and funky eclecticism that ranged from nerdy sophistication to cotton candy girlishness to downtown sex siren.

Surprisingly, this is the same consumer. Remember, the modern female consumer dresses according to her pocketbook and her mood. And Georgine brilliantly captured all the vicissitudes of her consumer attitudinal mood swings. Is the Georgine consumer slightly bipolar, maybe? But, there is nothing wrong with that as long as she is stylishly so.

For fall 2016, Georgine dresses her consumer at almost every jointure of her day; particularly, if you consumer is creative and works in creative endeavors. This collection is definitely not for the Wall Street type, unless that type has a clandestine life she’s keep secret.

There was a strong emphasis on outerwear in this collection, as we have seen from several designers this season. Still, for Georgine the outerwear bordered on the eclectic and glamorously in your face. Which is exactly what NYFW: The Shows needed this season, a lot more in-you-face boldness and pizazz. And in that respect Georgine delivered hands down!!

Images courtesy Aurora Rose/wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection include the brand’s camel and forest lace coat with cotton candy shearling collar, emerald merino wool sweatshirt with jacquard circle skirt, velvet and embroidered floral corseted dress, poison black velvet and net dress, and sleeveless black velvet and net gown.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Fall 2016

February 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Vivienne Tam is in love with Chinese culture. And that is a good thing!! In past outings, Tam has been inspired by chinoiserie, the Forbidden City, Chinese iconography as seen in Shanghai, the Paris of the East, and other Far East references which when funneled through hers lens of modernity and innovation creates a distillation on where fashion is heading.

For fall 2016, Vivienne Tam referenced a mélange of different cultures from the Chinese western frontier across central Asia to the Caucasus—comprising an emerging economic and cultural trade route to as the new “Silk Road.” Liner notes for the collection detail, “drawing upon indigenous cultures from Xinjiang, Kazakhstan, all the way to Turkey and Russia, this culture-bridging approach makes for a harmonious mosaic that is the main theme of the collection.”

This new “Silk Road” is producing a cross-pollination of cultures that borrows from past cultural influence while keeping solidly in the past, as well as projecting toward the future. This cross-pollination is aptly present in Tam’s fall 2016 collection.

Paired with a mid-1970s design aesthetic—gauchos, poncho-styled tops, and loose fitting trousers—and Tam’s affinity for mixing patterns, textures and colors palettes, this fall 2016 collection was more consumer and retail friendly than Tam’s spring 2016 that had an overabundance of masculine silhouettes that were sometimes unflattering to the feminine physique. Still, this collection was far removed from a parochial palette and more line with this new, emerging global consumer and traveler that comfortable almost anywhere.

Tam’s color palette in this collection is characterized by the rich, earth tones of burgundy, tan and deep black balanced against burnished pewter, silver and bronze metallic. And Tam’s ingeniously incorporation of patchwork leather, quilted jacquards and chunky knits with indigenous patterns married with Tam’s unique color palette and interesting fabrications helped produce a collection that drew credible references from the “Silk Road” of the past but was also very current with a projectile toward the future. In other words, yesterday, now and next!!

Images courtesy of Pablo la Torre/Indigital.tv

Standouts in the collection is Tam’s merino wool mock turtleneck sweater with Caroq patchwork in boysenberry, ultra suede patchwork jacket and skirt, sequin Raglan sleeve top with striped Ikat motif, cream and grey mohair sweater with black trousers, and sequin zigzag sleeveless gown with Talismanic applique.

—William S. Gooch