Front Row — Page 48

Nautica Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

How do you take a menswear brand that has a signature DNA and keep the collections fresh and relevant season after season? If you don’t know the answer, then look to Nautica.

Does Nautica bring in different silhouettes every season? No. Does the brand incorporate innovative textile techniques and fabrications every season? Not necessarily. However, Nautica manages every fashion season to evolve their design aesthetic, embracing a wide male demographic. Whether the male consumer is looking for a more streamlined, fitting silhouette or bold neon colors, Nautica finds a way to incorporate the expanding male design palette into their signature design aesthetic. Which is not an easy thing to do, being that Nautica’s DNA centers around American nautical sportswear.

For spring 2917 Nautica was inspired by the modern Riviera with its coastline of rich nautical colors of aqua and sky blues and sand whites. Nautica seeks in this spring 2017 collection to reimagine the Riviera coastline with its mix of international cultures, travelers, and the fun and seaside activities that are a part of the Riviera lifestyle.

Different from previous runway shows and presentations, Nautica includes some female models as a part of its Riviera fashion tableau. And by introducing its spring 2017 collection as a presentation instead a runway show, the brand was able to handedly conjure up images of the modern Riviera lifestyle. (Models strolling down a runway would have just been another dissertation on Nautica’s usual nautical aesthetic.) And you cannot deny Nautica’s inclusion of a diverse group of top models—Chad White, Adonis Bosso, David Agbodji, and Jae Yoo.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standout looks from the spring 2017 collection were the brand’s Sting Ray yellow stretch twill Barricuda jacket with navy rayon Breton sweater, bright white nylon print Anorak with bright with nylon print board short, sail white stretch linen blazer with jet navy nylon sail stitch board short, and jet navy stretch twill schooner jacket with jet navy nylon print board short.

—William S. Gooch

Robert Geller Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Robert Geller is a fashion editor’s designer. Now, what does that mean? A fashion editor’s designer translates into those designers who every season have a very strong reference point for their collections and who easily translate that inspiration into garments that are fashion forward, current, but also have strong retail value. Robert Geller is one such designer.

For spring 2017 Geller was inspired by the German youth art culture of the early 1980s. An irreverent youth explosion that leaned toward experimentation and DIY know-how fueled this 80s German art movement. Out of this phenomenon grew a burgeoning music and club scene, alternative magazines and zeitgeist, as well as some interesting street culture.

Geller has brilliantly translated this art scene of more than 30 years ago into a relevant, yet retail friendly collection that though reminiscent of a 80s fashion and pop music aesthetic seen in the US—think Tears for Fears, Thompson Twins, and Spandau Ballet—still has value to the modern male consumer.

At first glance, the unskilled eye would recognize these familiar 80s silhouettes and see nothing particularly innovative about the collection. However, at further examination, this collection speaks to genius of Geller’s ability to borrow from the past and pair his separates with expanded shapes and interesting textiles and colors in ways not quite seen before.

Geller takes the DIY spirit of that time and fusing that energy into man bags that resemble record albums. Geller also juxtaposes restrained volume against streamlined silhouettes evidenced in oversized pants paired with narrow jackets.

Though the color palettes is borders on a fall/winter palette scheme, Geller mixes these rather drab colors with the bold colors of magenta, fuchsia, and bright orange which expresses the peripatetic nature of that era. Geller also demonstrates his keen sense of experimentation by placing Polaroid appliques on everything from man bags to shirts and jackets.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standouts in this collection are Geller’s charcoal black leopard jacquard sweater with charcoal/black leopard rose jacket, lime green Geron mock neck tee shirt with grey Robert blazer, black L/S shirt with green Cupro short, and fuchsia Geron S/S mock neck tee shirt wit black Robert blazer.

—William S. Gooch

Artistix Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The 80s are back. Then again, did they ever really go away? If you are old enough to remember 80s style or you just source 80s culture via youtube videos, 80s style was a true amalgam of music, street fashion, and political influences. (Think Boy George’s mix of punk fashion, androgyny, underground club culture, and street style.)

And remember there was no singular 80s fashion aesthetic. From early hip hop culture of oversized bling to an expanded color palette for menswear evidenced in slick slacks and jackets to the street vibe of punk, the 80s expressed an uninhibited fashion freedom that could only be matched by the 1960s.

Since 2013 Artistix has been the creative fashion palette of artist Greg Polisseni. Using Artistix as his fashion canvas, Polisseni infuses Artistix with his particular oeuvre for edgy street art. And Polisseni’s penchant for abstract street art is evidenced in a spring 2017 collection that uses Polisseni’s abstract art as digital embellishments on 80s menswear silhouettes.

Lapels were imprinted with Polisseni’s abstract images, as well as vests, pants and tees. An interesting concepts; however, what stood out most with this spring 2017 collection was how Polisseni, with the assistance of Andy Hilfiger, managed to combined his digital street abstracts with an 80s aesthetic and still keep the collection fresh and current.

Images courtesy of Evil Genius Group/Jason Conrad

Standout looks in the collection were the brand’s white sport jacket printed lapel with white printed moto pants, white leather printed lapel with black printed vest and black jeans, white printed coveralls with white tee with printed sleeves and black denim jacket wit printed sleeve and white printed shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Suitsupply Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin 2 Comments

Images courtesy of fashionisto.com

A supermodel once told me that, “it takes charm to open the door and charm to keep the doors open.” While those words of wisdom can be applied to any industry, those pearls of wisdom are more aptly true in fashion.

As a brand, Suitsupply does not recreate the proverbial fashion envelope or even re-establish men’s suiting. What the brand does, however, is bring consistent charm to a classic male silhouette, making menswear consumers rethink men’s suiting and continue their love affair with jackets and slacks.

Images courtesy of Suitsupply

And for spring 2017, the charm started with male models bicycling down Broome Street, looking like elegant English gentlemen on their way to classes at Oxford minus the once-mandatory student gowns. (Imagine Peter O’Toole in the cult classic “Goodbye Mr. Chips”.)

Inspired by the midcentury Bauhaus art movement whose focus was on functional beauty or more aptly penned “Art into industry,” Suitsupply applied this beautiful functionality into spring/summer essentials that have strong focus on good design that is streamlined into everyday life. Suitsupply demonstrated this design concept by employing lightweight fabrics—linens blended with cashmere, silk, and cotton—and a restrained tonal palette of off whites, burnt orange, grass, and dark navy.

Images courtesy of fashionisto.com

By using lightweight fabrics and a restrained tonal palette, Suitsupply facilitates appropriate seasonal layering which correlates to brand’s secondary theme of international travel. Remember, contemporary menswear fashion is global and spring/summer travel requires garments that can easily be mixed and matched, layered and stripped down.

That said; Suitsupply’s current dissertation on spring/summer suiting, though grounded in traditional masculine silhouettes, expands consumers’ choices around suiting. And Suitsupply’s streamlined approach to suiting, shirts and vests is in line with what the dapper well-dressed gent wants!!

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Perry Ellis has gone through several creative directors since the death of namesake founder Perry Ellis. Each creative director has attempted to put their individual stamp on Perry Ellis; even Marc Jacobs tried when he helmed the brand.

Michael Maccari who has held the title of creative director for two years is having possibly the best run at Perry Ellis. The brand has never looked more vibrant, youthful, and fashion forward without losing its signature aesthetic.

That said; for spring 2017 Maccari expanded the brand’s concept of layering with a nod toward botanical prints. Though this collection would work best for consumers in cooler spring climates, evidenced with all the shirt layering, jackets and long slacks and a darker color palette, there were pieces in the collection that would appeal to consumers that experience warmer temperatures.

There was also a strong active athleisure element to the collection combined with a junior men’s 80s motif. This collection is definitely for the younger consumer that Maccari is aiming for his evolved version of Perry Ellis. And Maccari is right on track with his projection toward a younger consumer, understanding that millenials are less attracted to fabrication and statement garments, leaning more toward utilitarian garments that speak to ease of comfort and destination.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Maccari also reinterpreted the suit for Perry Ellis in this spring collection. In this collection the newly evolved Perry Ellis suit for spring 2017 could be a tracksuit or a deconstructed navy jacquard suit that would work in a relaxed office environment or in a gym.

Standouts in the collection were the graphic rose jacquard bomber in Army with nylon navy crew neck, reflective vest in agave with mesh tan polo, suede bomber in quartz, and jacquard ultra-light suit in navy with knit mesh navy shirt.

—William S. Gooch

ELLERY Resort 2017

June 17, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by female characters in the 1970s cult film classic, ”The Holy Mountain,“ ELLERY’s Resort 2017 collection projected the brand into new, uncharted territory with an emphasis on psychedelic motifs and alchemy. Though the brand has always been known for its penchant for outré and the avant-garde seen through a prism of modernity and eclecticism, this new injection outré projects ELLERY into the unfamiliar and new and interesting ways.

For those unfamiliar with “The Holy Mountain,” this 70s cult classic centers on a wide range of female characters which include the wife of a weapons manufacturer from Mars, a millionaire art dealer, the alchemist’s assistant, a war toymaker from Saturn, and some prostitutes. Directed by Alejandro Jodorowsky and produced by Beatles manager Allen Klein in 1973 “The Holy Mountain” infuses Japanese Zen philosophy, bold flashes of color, and 70s cinematic experimentation.

Though this collection does reference various motifs from “The Holy Mountain,” the brand stays true to its signature design aesthetic evidenced in restrained volume, monochromatic colors, and ruffled embellishments. This resort 2017 color palette ranges from flamingo pink and lipstick red all the way to khaki, midnight, and liquid silver. A blazing woodcut floral print also features in red and white, as well as sunny yellow.

Garment details are illustrious; hefty gold hardware, zigzag stitching, circular metal studs and glossy D rings. Meanwhile round metallic buttons boldly punctuate blazers, trousers, and fluid silk dresses.

Images courtesy of ELLERY

Since its inception in 2009, ELLERY has become of the go-to brands for that fashionista who loves garments that combine cutting edge fashion with modern innovation. And in an ever-increasing fashion terrain where sameness is becoming the norm, originality and innovative is welcomed!!

—William S. Gooch

Ports 1961 Pre-Spring 2017

June 7, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The fashion industry is always ten steps ahead of what is available to shoppers in major retail stores. Though NYFW: The Shows spring 2017 is three months away, many major brands have already created their pre-spring 2017 collections.

With all the pressure from within the industry and the ever-changing fashion palettes of consumers it is a challenge to create five to eight collections a year—which includes spring/summer; fall/winter/; resort/holiday; pre-spring; pre-fall; maybe a bridal collection, and a couple of capsule collection collaborations. (Remember the major retail stores demand new product every six weeks.)

With all these collections every year, each with its own inspiration, a brand can easily get lost in the shuffle. PORTS 1961 has not only survived the thirst for new product, but is excelling the demand for innovative, fashion-forward garments.

Inspired by the creative process itself, PORTS 1961 hurdles itself into new, uncharted territory for the brand by having experimentation be the heart of their pre-spring 2017 collection. “Our attitude is always one of positivity, of optimism,” explains Nataša Čagalj, creative director. “It is important for us to show that. We always want that spirit of curiosity and experimentation from our design process to carry through into what we produce in our collection.”

This season PORTS 1961 also paid homage to the Italian factories and fabric mills that produce the textiles used in their collections. The brand’s Made in Italy and Work in Progress insignia are reworked to become central components of individual garments.

Images courtesy of PORTS 1961

The color palette for the pre-spring 2017 collection embraces ice cream pastel tones to bold, energetic stripes, prints and textured neutrals. And fabric choices range from woven jacquards, cottons and silk fil coupé, offering an evolved take on traditional shirting and outerwear.

This playful, slightly off-center collection is not for the fashion-shy consumer. However, if you have a penchant for garments that push the proverbial fashion envelope and make you stand out in a crowd, this pre-spring collection is right up your alley!!

—William S. Gooch

Fendi Resort 2017

May 31, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inspired by American quilting, designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi for Fendi’s Resort 2017 collection employed checkered patterns, exotic floral prints, antique Japanese wallpaper, and kaleidoscopic patchwork style placements, as well as bold colors in green, yellow, red, and blues. This incredible crazy quilt of bold colors and patterns in funneled through the lens of modern, sporty elegance with a nod toward a 1970s design aesthetic.

Always known for deep well of knowledge concerning cultural reference, Lagerfeld’s wealth of cultural references is not wasted on this resort collection. And though Lagerfeld is a septuagenarian—74 in fact—his design brilliance is still going strong. Lagerfeld’s ingenious design aesthetic has eagerly adapted the ever-changing world of fashion. Borrowing from silhouettes and styles of the past—and for this Resort 2017 collection, an early 70s design aesthetic—Lagerfeld combines these influences with modern innovation and new textile fabrications.

And though this collection was fashion forward in its scope and incorporation of new artisanal techniques that was a hint whimsy and charm that unfortunately is missing from some of the resort collections of other well-know brands. The whimsical nature of this collection is made evident in off-the-shoulder peasant-like blouses, off-the-shoulder jumpsuits, and half off-the-shoulder peplum tops.

By employing lots of separates in this collection, Venturini Fendi and Lagerfeld have made this Resort 2017 collection more retail friendly and accessible. And the five trench coats in the collection, from the bold yellow to the black trench with Japanese wallpaper embellishment all highlight how Lagerfeld is adept at taking a traditional silhouette and elevating that look to something fresh, current while still being consumer friendly.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Venturini Fendi’s influence is seen in the use of the brand’s signature motif of waves that are peppered throughout the collection. And the use of shaved mink and fluffy hand-trimmed fox used to replicate the wave motif on a short fur jacket also demonstrates that Lagerfeld is still, even at 74, way ahead of the current pack of designers creating for major design houses.

—William S. Gooch

Bottega Veneta Resort 2017

May 24, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Primarily known as an Italian leather goods line for four decades, the brand’s 2017 resort collection continues to confirm that the brand has gone beyond accessories. In 2005 and 2006, respectively, Bottega Veneta presented its first womens and men’s ready-to-wear runway collections. And in the last ten years, Bottega Veneta has established itself as one of the go-to Italian ready-to-wear brands.

For the Resort 2017 collection, creative director Thomas Maier looked to creative a collection that had a strong emphasis on outerwear and strong tailoring. In this collection, Maier plays with different textures and color-blocking motifs that ultimately produced a collection with contrasting prints and patterns.

This Resort 2017’s ultra-feminine coats came in a wide color palette ranging from darker hues, such as deep purple and burgundy, bright yellows, textured greens, and fire reds. And Maier’s loungewear-inspired wrap coats were embellished with lightweight sequins.

Although this collection was heavy on outerwear, Maier did include some eveningwear looks that are a great addition for that consumer that is looking for some elegant evening garments to match the chic daywear looks of this resort collection. And Maier included some outstanding accessories—handbags and retro-inspired round-toed shoes that made this collection really pop.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Standout looks in this Resort 2017 collection include the brand’s yellow day coat with black piping, black leather trench, red leather ensemble with belted jacket, and blue and black terrycloth-like jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Peter Langner Bridal Spring 2017

April 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For his spring bridal 2017 collection, Peter Langner showed both bridal and garments from his fall 2016 eveningwear collection. While is spring 2017 bridal collection was elegant, pristine with a slight nod toward youthful whimsy, Langner’s fall 2016 eveningwear collection was elegant and sophisticated though lacking in youthful vim and vigor.

Our new bridal collection is based on a feeling and spirit rather than a theme or inspiration. Lightness and individuality is the must of this year’s collection. To stand out, to have character and style is our goal,” explained Langner.

And almost any choice for Langner’s bridal spring 2017 collection will make a bride stand out. One can always expect detailed craftsmanship mixed innovative textile fabrication. However, this season Langner incorporated some more ‘fashion as art’ design motifs into this collection. This new creative projection elevated Langner;’s 2017 bridal collection beyond the standard dewy, beautiful expression of one of the most important days in a woman’s life to a collection that possessed edge, a modern sensibility combined a touch of sass and boldness.

Overall, the collection would have been served better if Langner had selected models that a bit more statuesque. Several of the gowns looked badly fitted with hemlines tripping up the diminutive models. Still, the new direction that Langner is taking his bridal collections is much appreciated and should expand his consumer demographic.

Images courtesy of Aurora Rose/wwd.com

Standout looks in this collection include a mermaid gown in Mikado with draped asymmetrical front, sheath gown in crepe cady with embroidered sleeves and chiffon cubes, ball gown in Guipure lace with deep V neckline, and embroidered high-neck mermaid gown in silk organza.

—William S. Gooch