Front Row — Page 48

Desigual Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Desigual dedicated its spring 2017 collection to the global traveler that has influenced the world with her inimitable style. This style was influenced by this global traveler’s many cultural adventures reflected in an eclectic fashion that embraces a variety of ethnic influences.

With Desigual it is always about the styling. Though the brand is sometimes seen as a more affordable alternative to its rival Custo Barcelona, in recent years the brand is establishing its own design aesthetic. And that aesthetic leans heavily toward great separates that can be mixed and matched with great options in the collection or from other brands.

This collection is no exception. With a strong nod to the bohemian chic style of the early 70s, Desigual has taken bohemian style and injected global cultural motifs to create a collection that is current and fashion-forward with some consumer viability, particularly this season’s separates. Where in previous seasons Desigual leaned more toward collections that were more consumer friendly from the beginning to most of the pieces in the collection, this season the melding of 70s bohemian with global cultural influences rendered a collection that did not quite make the retail mark as in other seasons. In fact, the spring 2017 collection reflected garments one might find in Custo Barcelona.

Still, having less retail-friendly garments is not a misstep for Desigual. Particularly, when this spring 2017 point of view evolves the brand, which it does!!

This collection while celebrating global travel and the freedom of expression found in diverse cultures also had a strong emphasis on cuts and silhouettes that are comfortable while highlighting the body’s curves. The wide array of fabrications and bold colors helped detail these global influences, particularly the animal, print and ethnic motifs, portraying the vast territories of great adventure.

Images courtesy of Getty Images

Standout looks in the collection were the ethnic-embroidered button-up jacket over crochet jeweled bee-embroidered maxi gown, pink patch–embroidered denim jacket over stripe-and-floral color block maxi, and Indian-inspired pattern and 3-D floral print mid-length coat with 3-D print matching trousers.

—William S. Gooch

Tadashi Shoji Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Tadashi Shoji really turned up the volume for spring 2017!! Gone are the mother-of-bride dresses, gone are the lacey tea-length cocktail frocks, and also missing is the sweet sixteen, debutante gowns. All these looks have a place and presence in the industry; however, this season Shoji took some risks and it paid off!!

For spring 2017 Tadashi Shoji celebrates rebirth: rebirth in nature, rebirth in time and most of all rebirth in vision and direction. Using the teachings of Buddha as a focal point, with Buddha proclaiming “All things change,” at the end of his earthly journey, Shoji through his spring 2017 collection demonstrates that in his ecstatic vision of rebirth, the tangible and the mystical expression of ethereal bliss meet as one.

Shoji’s co-joining of the ethereal and the earthly present is seen through the lens of a spring collection that is shockingly heavy—shocking for Shoji, that is—on extremely diaphanous creations where unmentionables are artfully exposed fused with exquisite details that give texture and nuance. Yes, Shoji penchant for lacey floral embellishments are still front and center; however, unlike previous fashion outings where Shoji’s cornucopia of lacey concoctions conjured up images of sometimes staid, safe dresses that tempered the imagination, this spring collection Shoji allowed his fancy and fantasy to take flight.

The carnal and the otherworldly are brilliantly interlaced in a collection that is mostly obviously more youthful, fashion forward and happily more adventurous. V-neck décolletage is dipped to sensuous regions unknown, high splits almost expose lush creation, and layered embellishments suggest regal distinction.

Still, all of Shoji’s titillation and exposure this spring 2017 season is never vulgar. Of course, for most of Shoji’s loyal customer base the very sheer pieces will be lined for modesty purposes, but it is so good to see Shoji revamp his brand’s DNA beyond just beautiful and finally go there!! For those who have assiduously followed his career we were confident he had the goods. And this season he proved it.

That all said, there are no new silhouettes, but there doesn’t need to be any!! The chicness and sensual, modern projection of the collection speaks for itself.

Images courtesy of Linda Gaunt Communications

Standout looks in the collection include Shoji’s ivory/aquamarine sleeveless square neck mini-dress in mandala corded embroidery with ostrich features and fringe detail, ivory sleeveless jumpsuit in floral lace with square neck and open back harness details, coral short v-neck slip dress with animal embroidered tulle and lace, and dark pearl halter gown in metallic sequin-embroidered tulle with plunging v-neck.

—William S. Gooch

Nicholas K Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

One would think the Christopher and Nicholas Kunz would have run out of options when it comes to their signature design aesthetic, nomadic chic. Not so!! Every season the design duo finds some interesting twist that we have not seen before that keeps their brand’s DNA relevant with a unique perspective.

For spring 2017, Nicholas and Christopher Kunz looked to the film “Theeb” for inspiration. “Theeb” depicts the life of Bedouin culture in the mystic Wadi Rum. This Bedouin lifestyle centers on endurance and simplicity juxtaposed against the wind-swept, towering plateaus and narrow canyons of that environment, where eeking out a meager existence is an accomplishment in itself; a perfect reference point for the brand’s nomadic chic aesthetic.

Where in other seasons the nomadic chic aesthetic served the brand well, with some garments that had retail value and other garments in the collections having more editorial value than what might appeal to consumers. Perhaps, the brand’s design duo was still working out the translation of its nomadic chic aesthetic into wearable clothes in other outings. However, with this spring 2017 collection those seasons of experimentation seem to be over and is now rendering a collection that is a definite plus for consumers.

Though the floppy hats were somewhat of a distraction for this spring 2017 collection, overall, the collection was very well styled with a strong emphasis on layering, and draping, with some very interesting knotted pieces as well. And unlike other collections that hinged on androgynous fare that did not show off the feminine silhouette well, this collection was sensuous, beguiling with lots of feminine charm.

Images courtesy Umberto Fratini/Indigital.tv/vogue.com

There were also more gowns in the collection this season than in previous collections and the inclusion of variations on alpaca was highly effective. Another addition to take note of was Nicholas K’s shift to sustainable fashion. All the leather belts, wide-brimmed hats and trenches used vegetable dye.

—William S. Gooch

Just Drew Spring 2017

September 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Is fashion only about the new, the unfamiliar or the groundbreaking? Well, that depends on whom you are talking to and who makes the rules.

The definition of fashion also rests with how innovation and “new” is defined. As the biblical proverb details,” there is nothing new under the sun.” And that is absolutely accurate. So, perhaps, fashion should be defined as how well not-so-new elements are assembled, and if this unique assemblage causes folks to see something in a new and interesting way.

And that is what Drew Warren has done with his spring 2017 collection. With enchanted, dream-like cotton candy trees, as a backdrop, Drew Warren presented some very familiar, pretty silhouettes, but with a unique perspective.

Oftentimes, great fashion collections are about three things, presentation, presentation, presentation!!! The botanical wonderland-like backdrop to this spring 2017 collection helped project a relaxed and more accessible stance to these looks that are usually associated with the upscale, urban fashionista. In this setting, Warren wisely projects that these garments could work for a variety of women. And instead of creating looks that are usually worn by that sometimes jaded, spoiled city girl, Warren has created an environment that is promotes warmth, comfort, versatility and sensuality.

At first glance, a lot of fashion pundits would contend that these very familiar silhouettes are just a rehashing of things seen before. However, at closer examination, Drew Warren has carefully woven a tale of frothy, whimsical fancy seen through the lens of youthful, upscale feminine looks that women with deep pockets would like to wear. Every youthful socialite, or wannabee socialite, would love these looks in their wardrobe, precisely because Warren has assembled an array of garments for almost every social occasion

Just Drew’s color palette consists of hue’s of soft blush pinks mixed with white sheen/metallic layers, and newly developed fabric textures complimented the mastered silhouettes throughout the collection. The collection also portrayed vivid color palettes, alluring butterfly printed silk dresses, body-con bando’s paired with long silk trousers, and exclusive stripe patterns developed in-house, collectively forming the ultimate ideal modern Spring contemporary collection.

Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity/ Dan Lecca

Though this is Just Drew’s sophomore collection during NYFW: The Shows, it was a rounding success. Drew Warren knows his customer well, and demonstrates in this spring 2017 collection that knowing how to expertly style and assemble familiar looks together, can go a lot further than the unfamiliar that has no retail value.

—William S. Gooch

Telfar Spring 2017

September 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Everyone has heard the oft-bandied adage, “Less is more.” This simplicity dictum that has been one of the tried-and-true principles of great fashion also applies to Telfar’s spring 2017 collection. Except, there is one hitch. Perhaps, Telfar’s spring 2017 collection should hinge on the not often heard or spoken fashion adage, “Less is deceptively more.”

Every season Telfar continues its signature design aesthetic of taken well-worn American sportswear silhouettes and turning these silhouettes inside out. In other words, creative director Telfar Clemens deconstructs and adds his eclectic twist on classics, reimaging these looks as functional and wearable garments of the future.

What works so well in this season’s collection is that Telfar Clemens injects a bit of tongue-and-cheek humor into each garment. The classic polo shirt becomes a commentary on gender bending, awkward sexiness. From the front the polo shirts look no different than the average polo shirt, except that collar may appear to be on backward. However the back of the polo shirt could be a total reveal, dipping to regions unknown or at the very least regions not talked about in polite company.

The continuing trend of cutouts also pops up in this spring 2017 collection. However, Telfar, true to his brand DNA, uses cutouts in an innovative and interesting way. There are no cutouts on the sides of bodices, as seen in most collections. Instead, Telfar’s cutouts are fleshed out, so to speak, in unusual locations. There are cutouts in the side legs of jeans, around the shoulder blades of polo shirts, and just above the chest of polo shirts.

And in a nod to the sameness and blandness of big retail giant colors, the brand makes use of what it calls Martha Stewart and Old Navy colors—lime, tangerine, and mid-grad blue bold colors. It was a though Willy Wonka’s ‘oompah loompahs’ fell into a bucket of Home Depot paint!!

That said; the inside joke is on the fashion industry that sometimes pretends to value fashion above clothes, but in reality mostly cares about retail dollars. So, Telfar sarcastically plays with this hypocrisy while at the same time repurposing some standard silhouettes into his version of fashion.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

That’s right; clothes, which look, like fashion and are creatively fashionable!! In the words of Telfar Clemons, “Its not for you, It’s for everyone.”

—William S. Gooch

Denibi Spring 2017

September 8, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

How often have you heard that,“it is not always what you say, it is how you say it”? That well-used adage applies to Denibi’s spring 2017 collection, a collection that found a way to repurpose familiar silhouettes in ways that were fresh and fashion forward. And in Denibi’s debut New York Fashion Week collection, the brand proved that minimalism married with sophistication can be a winning ticket.

Perhaps, Denibi’s ability to inject familiar silhouettes with innovation and creative verve emanates from its focus on minimalism. True to the brand’s DNA of minimalism though design, Denibi’s spring 2017 collection references extends from a single African mask entitled “Nostalgia.” “ The main inspiration for the brand came from the single ebony wood mask named Nostalgia. That is our main source of inspiration. Its minimalism, its meaning, and its aesthetic is what developed our entire collection. Nostalgia is also the first piece of art that we ever created,” detailed the Denibi design team.

Where other brands literally interpret references to the ‘Mother‘ continent, Denibi aptly infuses its spring 2017 collection with the essence of its reference point, thusly creating a collection that is chic, sophisticated, current, consumer friendly and not weighted down with garments that substitute literal interpretation for inspired genius. The brand’s utopia—as its name denotes—is characterized by simplicity, fine taste, and modernity that is so beautifully expressed in this spring 2017 collection.

Beyond the minimalistic verve of the collection, there are a few things to note about this fashion outing. The Denibi design team is adept at putting their own creative spin on looks that we seen before, and seen often. Take the brand’s simple white blazer, the type of blazer seen in many collections season after season. However, at closer examinations, this spring 2017 jacket separates itself from other white blazers with accordion-like sleeves that can be rolled up for style and comfort. It is these little minimal details that gives Denibi the fashion edge, though its choice of silhouettes are looks we have seen many times before.

If there was one draw back to this spring 2017, many of the garments looked as though they would have been more appropriate in a fall/winter collection. Still, perhaps, the design team was going for trans-seasonal looks that are currently so popular in the industry.

Standout looks in the spring 2017 collection are the brand’s navy blue spring coat with oversized trousers and white Spandex bodysuit, ivory high-collared vest with triple buttons and long ivory wrap-around accordion skirt, oversize velvet bomber with camel pencil skirt, and ivory turtleneck bodysuit with straight ivory trousers.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Remember it is all in the tone!!

—William S. Gooch

David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx Spring 2017

July 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Regardless of emerging men’s silhouettes that mix feminine and masculine elements, men’s traditional suiting is still the most popular male silhouette on the market. And the David Hart collaboration with Hart Schaffner Marx continues that tradition.

David Hart has shown consistent at New York Fashion: Men’s for several season now—first coming to fashion week prominence under the New York Fashion Week Men’s Day by Cadillac auspice—and he is known for a sophisticated style that pulls inspiration from classic male silhouettes of the 50s and 60s. (David Hart’s spring 2015 collection comes to mind inspired by Miami nightlife of the 1950s.)

For spring 2017 the David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx collaboration drew inspiration from iconic environmental photography of Slim Aarons. For those not familiar with Slim Aarons, Aarons established himself as a photographer who shot celebrities of the 50s and 60s in easy, casual environments in formal clothes. Aarons most famous photograph is the 1957 Kings of Hollywood depicting Clark Gable, James Stewart, Van Heflin and Gary Cooper.

This collection is reminiscent of trips to the Maldives, Mustique, Palm Beach, and Provence in the 1960s. Imagine the 60s Brat Pack of Sammy Davis Jr., Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin and Peter Lawford seen through a modern lens of sharp, color suit jackets and palm-printed slacks and you will understand the direction of this collection.

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com/Ken Jones

This David Hart x Hart Schaffner Marx collaboration does not break any new ground, and it doesn’t need to. It is beautiful men’s suiting in bold colors for beauty’s sake, and that is enough. And where in the past some consumers who have shied away from some of the bold, vibrant colors used in this collection, the modern male consumer is not so shy. And that is a good thing!!

—William S. Gooch

Eidos Spring 2017

July 15, 2016 by admin 2 Comments

For spring 2017 Eidos creative director Antonio Ciongoli looked to India, and more specifically Bar Palladio, a cultural hub where varied influences meet, and Bagru, a city outside of New Delhi where inhabitants use ancient textile techniques to create incredible fabrics by hand. This ‘Bar Palladdio to Bagru’ inspiration has produced a spring 2017 collection that combines a fusion of traditional Indian textile techniques and modern influences. The ‘Bar Palladio to Bagru’ collection is an interesting departure for the Ciongoli/ISAIA team that usually finds inspiration from the rich textile traditions of Italy.

That said; this clash of seeming dissimilar influences of the ‘Bar Palladio to Bagru’ collection surprisingly works and has a lot of potential retail value. And the genius of this collection is in the different separates that can be mixed and matched with garments that are more standard menswear fare. The black herringbone jacket would work well with denim jeans; the linen knit Nehru jacket and be matched with a wide range of slacks, and even the yogi pants can work with a lightweight spring jacket.

And Ciongoli neutral palette of indigo blue, stonewashed ecru, and dusty tans make this collection have a wide appeal to international male consumers. Also marrying traditional male silhouettes with Nehru jackets, Monte and yogi pants demonstrate that modern male consumers can easily embrace this modern fusion of the old and new. Though we have seen the East meets West aesthetic before, Eidos presents this fashion cultural exchange in an innovative way.

Images courtesy of ISAIA

Standout looks in this collection include Eidos’ navy/cream barre stripe fleece double breasted shawl jacket, natural/indigo slub terry barre stripe crewneck, hand dyed natural indigo khadi dhoti by EIDOS x Stoffa, cream silk and linen double breasted evening suit, white tonal slub barre stripe band collar popover, natural madder and harkat dyed herringbone head wrap by EIDOS x Stoffa, and the dark iron linen suit, white slub jersey knit kurta.

—William S. Gooch

Nick Graham Spring 2017

July 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Samba dancers, tropical setting, carnival-like music conjures up images of Brazil, right? Well, not necessarily. For spring 2017 Nick Graham used these cultural references to give a nod to Cuba of the 1950s, the bacchanalian Cuba of glamorous nightclubs, decadence, gamblers, and playground of American high rollers. Behind this Cuban heyday was an undercurrent of change and Castro’s Cuban revolution.

“It was a fascinating period, with the Tropicana Club at the center of the action. Americans would come in droves and party like they couldn’t in the US,” explained Nick Graham. Once Havana fell, the Americans moved to Las Vegas, along with the showgirls and everything else that came with it.”

Like many menswear designers this season, Graham did not stray far away from traditional menswear silhouettes. Though we’ve seen all these looks before and consumers will love what Graham has done with reinventing the tried and true.

The beauty of this collection is in the presentation and the styling. And having top models Sebastian Suave, Chad White, Kevin Sampaio, and Nick Truelove added to the professionalism and momentum of the brand.

A few seasons back, after not presenting collections during New York Fashion Week, it appeared that the brand was in trouble, and it was!! However, Nick Graham has back with a vengeance and is proving that by staying true the brand’s DNA of post-prep seen through the lens of youthful exuberance that a revitalized brand does not have go outside of its design aesthetic to retain its audience and expand its base.

Images courtesy of Tommy Iannaccone/wwd.com

Graham reinvents the brand’s design aesthetic by using Madras sport coats and shorts to create the new “tropical suit” designed for stylish summer nights. Pulling from the images of the impending Cuban Revolution, Graham employs a hint of camouflage in blazers and accessories.

Standout looks in the collection include the skull-print sarong with cotton tank top and blue linen blazer, Camo blue baseball jacket with tee and blue jeans, and black paisley tuxedo jacket with black shirt and pants.

—William S. Gooch

Malan Breton Menswear Spring 2017

July 15, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Malan Breton has had a fashion epiphany. And it is about time!! After creating interesting collections for over a decade that sometimes bordered on outré unmarketable garments, Malan Breton finally hit the jackpot with his men’s spring 2017 collection. And he accomplished this feat without sacrificing the signature DNA of his brand. Remarkable indeed!

For spring 2017 Malan Breton was inspired by a nocturnal walk through the forest of Taiwan’s Orchid Island where flora and fauna flora frolic under the glistening starlight, particularly the exotic butterflies that are indigenous to Orchid Island. This rather contrived inspiration was paired with the secondary reference to the Academy Award–winning film “Alice’s Restaurant.”

Aptly titled “Severance,” which was defined in the collection’s liner notes as a division is two parts, is the rightful moniker for these two dissimilar ideas. That said; how the this two disparate motifs came together in Breton’s spring 2017 collection is beyond comprehension; however, the two polar opposites aside, Breton produced a spring 2017 collection that cohesively and retail viability-wise was leagues beyond other collections he has produced in past outings.

This spring 2017 menswear collection was current, innovative while still holding on to Malan Breton’s penchant for ornate brocade-like fabrics and stylings. And unlike other Malan Breton’s other collections where his fabric choices and overly styled presentation overshadowed the garments, this collection had just the right amount of glam, panache and modern sensibility. Well, most of the time!!

And Malan Breton’s choice of a mixture of silk jersey, silk gazar, neoprene, and denim, though seemingly not compatible bedfellows, was worked exquisitely innovative way in this outing. Bretion also ingeniously mixed in elements of sportswear with bold, gilded floral prints and Savile Row tailoring rendering the collection a modern take of luxury sportswear that could be an indication of where men’s luxury sportswear is going.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones/fashionreverie.com

And in true Malan Breton fashion there were a few garments with his initials emblazoned. Still, this overzealousness can be excused because the collection was so good!! Though the venue was as temperate as Dante’s hell, for those who could stand the heatwave, the collection was worth the perspiration!!

Standout looks in the collection were the deep forest print silk gazar Brady shirt with lemon chrome silk jersey Victory polo, deep forest print silk gazar River coat with neoprene and rubber bodysuit, Taiwanese reconstituted denim Brando jacket, and rose gold crest feather embroidered Marlene suit with cotton Francine shirt.

—William S. Gooch