Front Row — Page 45

Erin Fetherston Spring 2017

September 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

One thing that can be said for Erin Fetherston’s spring 2017 collection is that the collection is very retail friendly. Then again, Fetherston’s has never strayed too far away from what her consumer wants in their wardrobe.

In this 10^th anniversary season of Fetherston showing during New York Fashion Week, the brand looks back and reflects on the brand’s signature aesthetic of easy, relaxed clothes that appeals to the female consumer that wants to be chic and sophisticated without looking as though she has put a lot of effort into looking beautiful.

With that reflection in mind, Fetherston achieved her goal of creating easy, breezy garments. And she took that design aesthetic further in this spring 2017 outing. For spring 2017 her woman is fashion forward, ethereal with an ease of movement that evokes bohemian charm. Yet, she is still sophisticated and pulled together.

Inspired by the moonlight seen through the lens of a modern, bohemian chic aesthetic, this collection contained light and airy, diaphanous fabrics and a color palette that ranged from shimmering silver and whites and blues to sunrise yellow and dusty rose. There were also a lot of continuing trends in this spring 2017 collection, from tiered ruffle skirts and dresses to off-the-shoulder blouses. There were also really cool softly tailored suits in the collection.

Additionally, there were also some very interesting denim looks in the collection made evident invintage washed sailor jeans, jumpsuits and tops, rounding out the collection. These denim pieces reflect Fetherston’s collaboration with denim label Parker Smith.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Standout looks in the collection were Fetherston’s moonrise sequin jumpsuit, floral ombre floral chiffon tiered maxi, moonlight shimmer poet blouse, and clair de lune shimmer chiffon goddess gown.

—William S. Gooch

Libertine Spring 2017

September 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Punk fashion is back!! After a three-year absence from fashion, Libertine has brought punk style back, but it returns the Libertine way!! Fashion designers/brands from Vivienne Westwood to Custo Barcelona to Hedi Slimane when he helmed Saint Laurent have found innovative ways to translate the anarchistic elements of the punk rock movement into a chic, stylish fashion expression that has relevance 30-plus years after the punk movement became a political and cultural force.

For spring 2017, Libertine has revisited that particular style and era. But, unlike fashion brands the conjured up punk style three years ago, Libertine went all the way back to this cultural phenomenon’s roots, Great Britain in the mid-70s. Remember, the punk movement in Great Britain was a direct response to the austerity of Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher. (Thatcher disabled many of the worker unions and reduced education programs in Great Britain during her tenure as Prime Minister.)

Libertine is perfectly poised to embrace the anarchistic, rebellious nature of punk style. As a fashion brand, Libertine’s creative director Johnson Hartig has always turned the brand’s nose up at polite fashion.

This spring 2017 season, several brands—Telfar, Georgine, Rinat Brodach, and of course Jeremy Scott—have pushed the proverbial fashion envelope by doing things their way and not genuflecting to certain fashion authorities that silently proclaim that retail value trumps creativity and personal vision. With this collection, Libertine continues its membership in the club of fashion freedom by giggling at the fashion elite with this collection. But, the brand kind of always does that!!

Going back to his punk British roots, Hartig employs some classic British iconography in this collection. Coats are heavily adorned with Queen Elizabeth buttons and broaches. Union Jack motifs and even a Union Jack trench are incorporated throughout the collection, as well. There is tropical print with imposed images of the British band Wham and Bob Marley, a nod to the humor in this fashion outing. And in a tribute to the British punk movement there is a painted moto leather jacket with the emblazoned words “We Hate Everything.”

Images courtesy of Rodin Banca/wwd.com

Hartig ingeniously takes all these punk references and 70s motifs and produces a collection that does something that so few collections nowadays do; evoke mood and have fashion-forward sensibility that stimulates conversations and excites the soul. Standout looks in the collection includes the pink moto jacket with matching skirt embellished with Georgian jewelry and Queen Elisabeth iconography, the portrait-painted jumpsuit, and Union Jack trenchcoat.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Tam Spring 2017

September 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion designers/brands are often inspired by great cities. From Paris, Rome, London, and New York to Bangkok, Bali, and Morocco choosing an exotic location or a city with great cultural influence is par for the course for many designers/brands. Yet, within that pantheon of great international cities that have served as a point of reference for fashion brands, Houston, Texas does not rank near the top of the list. That is, unless the fashion designer is Vivienne Tam.

Known as a fashion designer that often opts for unorthodox points of reference for her collections—political iconography, chinoiserie, Victorian style—, using Houston, Texas a point of reference for her spring 2017 collection is not our of line with the kinds of unconventional motifs that Tam has explored in past collections. And for spring 2017 Tams opts for Houston as a modern expression of the ever-evolving hodgepodge of America’s cultural mixed salad.

From NASA, Rice University, the Houston Ballet to Tex Mex cuisine, Southwest culture, and the Houston Rodeo, Houston, Texas is a reflection of America’s continued experiment with diversity. And Tam taps into this multicultural cornucopia by creating a collection that mixes all these influences seen through a fashion-forward lens of modern sensibility that is extremely retail friendly.

For the past couple of seasons, Tam has developed collections that have relied heavily on separates. And this is a good thing, especially for this spring 2017 collection. Tam employs the current trends of off-the-shoulder blouses, fringed edges and metallic and sequined embellishment. All of these trends appear in Tam’s separates, making this collection very retail friendly.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Tam also gives a nod to denim in this collection, conjuring images of the early 70s with this inclusion, particularly when Tam employs baby doll silhouettes, flared pants, NASA decals, and print patterns of armadillos, butterflies and wild flowers. Standout looks in the collection include Tam’s NASA bayou-appliqued white tulle dress with H-Town logo badges, burnt orange Mexican flower-appliqued denim dress, red cotton western shirt with spoonbill lace and red lace ruffle skirt, and white butterfly garden lace long dress with NASA and butterfly appliques.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Miguel Vieira Spring 2017

September 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Portuguese designer Miguel Vieira’s inspiration for his spring 2017 collection—his debut collection presented in the city—was “Out of Africa.” Vieira’s spring clothes are fresh, even if the influence of the African continent on the collection seems rather reductionist in that Africa is, yet again, synonymous with “tribal” prints and safaris.

The tiresomeness of this colonial perspective aside—probably more the fault of the 1985 film, Out of Africa, than that of the designer—Vieira’s take on Safari chic is far from hackneyed. Painted in a neutral palette of exclusively black and white, laced with a soupçon of tan and a solitary splash of navy, the collection treated its stimulus with an air of sophistication.

The safari suit impetus, for instance, is extrapolated into chic matching separates such as a long-sleeved cropped jacket, fastened at the waist with a slim black belt, over peg leg trousers. This suit was sewn out of fabric directly evocative of Malian Bologanfini (mud-cloth) and the same print gives life to a pair of delightfully playful flounced dresses.

Vieira took the idea of tribal lines to a psychedelic level in black-on-shimmering-tan kaleidoscope print dresses and separates that are hypnotic in their simplicity. In a deft move that saved the collection from flatness, the designer deepened the linear motif with sequined stripes and abstract patterns. The result was an interesting texturizing of dresses that might otherwise have been a milquetoast effort.

Linearity was even present in the romantic ribbed lace dresses and blouses sprinkled refreshingly in-between the solid ensembles. The most remarkable of these Chloë-esque looks was the diaphanous plunging V-neck dress that closed out the show. Its opaque scalloped double peplum provides an intriguing contrast to the sheer striation of the body of the frock.

Images courtesy of Dan Corina Lecca/Mao PR

Speaking of contrast, diametrically opposed to the grace of much of the collection was the addition of thick safari-jacket belts to peak-lapelled men’s blazers, an element that felt forced and too literal all at once. Contrivances though those jackets may have seemed, the entirety of Vieira’s spring 2017 collection boasts a calculated ease that is not easy to manufacture or to master: the effortless polish of these clothes is undeniable.

—Natasha Nyanin

Dennis Basso Spring 2017

September 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

You know that there is a certain kind of brilliance associated with a brand when that brand’s design aesthetic can be re-invented and loyal customers keep coming back. So is the case with Dennis Basso.

Dennis Basso initially made a name for himself in the industry as a furrier. And his fashion shows centered mostly on Basso’s innovative use of fur, which has worked well for Basso over the years. Still, one might ask, how can a fashion brand known for interesting and unique perspectives when it comes fur, which at its core is a fall/winter phenomenon, translate into spring/summer clothes? Spring/summer garments and fun are not necessarily compatible bedfellows, right? Correct; however, Dennis Basso has ingeniously discovered some synchronicity between these two disparate elements. And it works!!

For spring 2017, the spirit of the modern international voyager inspired Dennis Basso. The international playground that serves as a backdrop for Basso’s inspiration serves his spring 2017 woman well as she darts from one fashion capital to the next, needing a wardrobe that reflects her many dalliances and her carefree spirit as she explores many world cultures. And because she is briskly traveling from one international locale to the next, Basso’s woman must pack lightly and carry garments that don’t need a lot of maintenance.

This emphasis of global travel is highlighted in garments this season that are a lot more youthful and fit for travel. Gone are some of the over-embellished, sometimes matronly looks of the past seasons. This collection, though still slightly excessive at 61 looks, had a lot more variation and youthful charm and whimsy than seen in previous outings. In this collection, Basso moved effortlessly between dresses and skirts of varying lengths, with a few pants thrown in for good measure.

Though this collection placed more emphasis on youthful charm and whimsy didn’t lack elegance or sophistication. Basso will continue to appeal to his loyal consumer base with lush suedes and a few looks that incorporated fur embellishments. Still, the highlight of this collection was the effortless, youthful sauciness of the looks.

Images courtesy of Indigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks in the collection were Basso’s camel line coat with mesh and sable vest, white sable and chiffon jacket with pleated chiffon dress, hand-embroidered blush gown, and hand-beaded blush lace gown.

—William S. Gooch

John Paul Ataker Spring 2017

September 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

If there is any doubt that Turkish designer John Paul Ataker has a penchant for the operatic, that the last of his models walked to the sound of Ennio Morricone’s Gabriel’s Oboe and the finale proceeded to the same maestro’s The Mission, should erase all uncertainty.

The collection—the self-described goal of which was to take “us back to ancient Assyrian culture, inspiring classically modern prints and sculpted shapes that create an elegantly tailored silhouette to enhance the feminine form”—while dramatic and diverse, lacked the thread of concinnity that gracefully sews such an ambitious undertaking together.

While the three-dimensionality of some of the pieces, including a white gown with peplum covered in multi-colored butterfly appliqué, is laudable, at best the clothes were a showcase of angelic intention and at worst, an exhibition of dizzying devilish details. Certain pieces, such as blue and yellow shiny taffeta gowns both belabored by multi-fold peplums, were in dire want of restraint. A cacophony rang out where a simple melody was craved.

Images courtesy of firstview.com

What Ataker’s collection lacked in editing, however, he made up for in pageantry: sheer trains swept from armholes beyond the length of the dress in one look; in the final look, a model manipulated the many-tiered train as though it were the wing of a seraphim. His passion is palpable and the time that was lavished on these confections is unmistakable. The purest notes were the dulcet tones of a peach high-low hemmed gown with its fitted bodice and hoop skirt. In this one piece, Ataker achieved Wagnerian echelons of romance without the coloratura that marred several of the other looks. With a little more isolation of ideas, Ataker’s voice would carry more clearly, and he would have us singing his praises.

—Natasha Nyanin

Alice + Olivia Spring 2017

September 13, 2016 by admin 3 Comments

For spring 2017 Alice + Olivia’s creative director Stacy Bendet was inspired by the Italy’s Gardens of Bomarzo and tarot cards. Hmm, an odd combination, you might think. However, if you are familiar with Alice + Olivia, Bendet has put together strange bedfellows before, creating collections that are surprisingly cohesive with lots of retail value.

For that young lady that is looking for fun, flirty, chic clothes that incorporate fashion as art without the artsy injection overwhelming the retail value, this is the perfect collection for you. Over the years, Alice + Olivia has grown from a frolicky collection for that downtown fashion girl who was looking for a more chic option to Juicy Couture to a brand that over the past couple of seasons has figured out how to keep its audience while evolving the brand to include more artsy, sophisticated looks.

Always known for its great separates, this collection contained lots of great pieces that can be mixed and matched with other pieces in the collection or pieces that are already in wardrobes. Bendet also brilliantly infused a bohemian chic aesthetic—a style point of view that has popped up in the collection for the past three seasons—with the more artsy embellishment of tarot symbols.

At times the collection was slightly incohesive—sometimes the tarot motif overwhelmed some of the garments—however, this collection was still fun, whimsical, with an added dose of youthful sophistication. Can anyone say “Tapestry’s” Carole King updated to 2017? That’s right, and on models of color. Yes!!

Images courtesy of fashionreverie.com

Now the question is if the Alice + Olivia downtown fashionista is out to pasture? No, she has just grown up with a bit more sophisticated taste.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Layana Aguilar Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

Layana Aguilar has busy since her two appearances on “Project Runway.” Since her debut on season 11 of “Project Runway” in 2014, Aguilar has also appeared on “Project Runway All-Stars,” designed several collections and created gowns for Disney’s ‘Elena of Aguilar.’ And she is far from being done!!

For spring 2017, Aguilar looked to the smallest and most unconventional animals on the planet, the hummingbird for inspiration. ‘“Miss Happy Humming Bird” is an ode to the light we all carry inside, the strength we have to overcome all obstacles and the power of the female spirit, explains Aguilar.

Though the hummingbird as a source of inspiration might be an unconventional reference point when reconsidered and juxtaposed against Aguilar’s penchant for explosions of bold color, lightness and buoyancy, perhaps the hummingbird is an obvious choice. And with Aguilar you always get a lot of ideas, still, the point of contention with Aguilar is if all the ideas coalesce into a cohesive collection.

The elements that stand out most about this spring 2017 collection is the flirty, girly quality to the garments and expressions of bold color. The inclusion of the ruffle trend was a nice addition to the collection. However, Aguilar’s plethora of ideas at times did not come together adequately for a unified look. Though Aguilar’s collection clearly expresses who her customer is, it doubtful that her girl would several of the looks in this collection.

Images courtesy of Omen PR

Aguilar’s color palette of teal, black and white works well for this collection. And Aguilar’s use of neoprene and mesh add to the charm of her garments. That said; the mix of Aguilar’s ethereal print with the hard and soft quality of her fabrications didn’t always combine for a cohesive expression of her design aesthetic.

Standout looks in the collection is Aguilar’s teal blue halter dress with cutouts and the sea blue sarong skirt with sheer white top.

—William S. Gooch

Francesca Liberatore Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

“Francesca Liberatore’s last name means liberator.” And, it is freedom that Liberatore said she sought to capture with her spring 2017 collection inspired by “balloons in the sky.”

There was certainly an ease and flow to the collection that opened with a sleeveless black and gold pinstriped dress with a high slit that billowed with the model’s gait. The pieces that make up this collection were made to be swept by the wind, resulting in calculated yet understated drama: the cuts and lines were classic and the preponderance of looks mono or dichromatic.

Liberatore said balloons remind her of freedom and also of volume. For volume, bows were the order of the day: asymmetric neck lines on tee shirts culminated in a large taffeta bow; purple bows with tails hanging long were tied to the waistline of flare skirts, a red velvet blazer and bright crimson culottes. Yet, the clothes were not weighed down by the ubiquity of this classically romantic element. Ideas and shapes were modernized by the use of jersey. And the overall feel of the collection was given more buoyancy by printed t-shirts that were paired with more formal pieces.

Beyond bows, Liberatore found volume in both closed and open shapes. Jodhpur-like trousers and blouson sleeves on shirts and dresses were directly redolent of the balloons of the designer’s inspiration. On structured shirtdresses and a wide-lapelled trench dress, an additional short flourish of fabric, an ankle-length train if you will, intelligently provided the volume without the confinement of shape.

Images courtesy of livingly.com

Though a few of the bow-embellished pieces felt like craft work, overall Liberatore presented a restrained exploration of freedom that speaks volumes of the maturity of the designer’s sensibilities.

—Natasha Nyanin

Custo Barcelona Spring 2017

September 12, 2016 by admin 1 Comment

For Dalmau Custo more is more; particularly with the Custo Barcelona’s spring 2017. But than again, more is always more with this brand.

Industry professionals have come to expect “the more is more” fashion dictum from Custo Barcelona. Season after season, Custo Barcelona has excited customers and industry professionals with collections that demonstrated design acuity, bold color and lots of fabric combinations. So, one wonders how far Dalmau Custo will go with “more is more” fashion inspiration this season.

That said, Dalmau Custo went a lot of places with his “more is more.” Sometimes he went in the right direction, other times the piling on of ideas needed to be rethought. And though one would think Custo’s “more is more” would work best in the brand’s women’s wear garments, the brand’s “way more” worker much better with the men’s wear looks.

Custo Barcelona’s “more is more” aesthetic is evidenced in more elaborate textures, more hand sewn items, more wealth of materials, more creativity, and looks that exuded more power. That said; there appeared to be a70’s nightlife aesthetic throughout the collection. This point of view worked best in the over-the-top pieces, but in the more subdued garments some of the fabric and color combinations were incongruent and overwhelming. Perhaps, “less is more” would’ve worked in for some of the garments.

What worked best in this collection were the separates that could have been mixed and matched with other pieces in the collection or items already in wardrobes. Placing emphasis on separates has been a very good projection for Custo Barcelona in recent seasons. Not every consumer is brave enough to wear many of the bold pieces in Custo Barcelona collections each season.