Front Row — Page 45

ELLERY Pre-Fall 2017

January 14, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

For its pre-fall 2017 collection, the late, great Nina Simone, the high priestess of soul, inspired ELLERY creative director Kym Ellery. Like the iconic Nina Simone, ELLERY is bold, out-of-the-box, effortless mixing feminine with the masculine. Also, like Simone, ELLERY melds the classic with the rebellious as evidenced in ELLERY classic silhouettes fused through a lens of fashion-forward sensibility and innovation.

That said; still in place is the brand’s penchant for restrained volume as seen in wide-legged pants and blouses that balloon in volume at the forearm. And what really stands out this season is the wide array of outerwear in this collection, from maxi coats, double-breasted coats, zippered overcoats to dusters, bombers and fur-embellished long coats.

The color palette in this collection is an interesting evolution of the brand. Though the neutral and dark colors are a carryover from other collection, this season Kym Ellery has incorporated burnt orange, mottled rust, a fiery print of red, as well as shades of blue and silver.

The fabrications used in this outing are also an evolution for the brand. Traditional fabrications of knitted houndstooth, flocked Italian shirting and paisley silk jacquards bring a timeless quality to the modern shapes. Innovative Swiss–pleated tulle, mottle-dyed velvets, and technical gabardine fabrications effortlessly hold the pre-fall 2017 collection’s silhouettes.

Where the Nina Simone influence is most evident in this pre-fall 2017 collection is in the styling and the juxtaposition of hard and soft, feminine and masculine, and how Kym Ellery has reviewed early 70s influences into this outing. Cinched in waist, wide-legged paints, maxi coats with volume and most evident in this collection the oversized jewelry conjures up images of the early 1970s. Nina Simone was known for her costume statement jewelry that was large in scope. Statement jewelry in this collection the materials range from plated gold and silver to mottled resins in fleshy nudes, deep reds and a vibrant orange spotted tortoise.

Images courtesy of C&M Media

In the spirit of Nina Simone’s strong, powerful revolutionary voice that spoke to a people’s yearning for freedom of political thought and self-determination so does this collection render a bold, eclectic message of creative freedom and individualism.

—William S. Gooch

Nicole Miller Pre-Fall 2017

January 6, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

“…What has been done will be done again. There is nothing new under the sun.” So the writer of Ecclesiastes postulates. And for her pre-fall 2017, Nicole Miller expands on this point of view, but with a twist.

The punk aesthetic found its way back into runway collections for 2013 evidenced in collections by Versace, Vivienne Tam, Custo Barcelona, Alexander McQueen, and others. Editors were inundated with studded and zippered leather jackets, bags, footwear and shirts. Even the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art paid homage to punk with its “Chaos to Couture” exhibit.

Nicole Miller revisits punk culture for her pre-fall 2017 collection, a sharp departure from the frilly feminine looks we’ve come to expect from Miller. Miller took her pre-fall 2017 collection out of her lovely showroom in the Garment District and opted to showcase the collection at Daredevil Tattoo on the Lower Eastside.

Punk culture is highly compatible with tattoos and piercings and Miller takes advantage of this marriage, playing off youth culture’s current obsession with tattoos. And by pairing safety pins, metal studs, tartans with tattoos and piercings, Nicole Miller is on the right track to the more edgy version of the downtown fashionista.

Still, Nicole Miller takes this pre-fall collection beyond piercings, tattoos and punk culture. Miller’s girl is always chic and sophisticated which in previous season was translated into that stylish consumer who didn’t take a lot of risks. With this collection Miller has found her edgy oeuvre, going back to her roots, so to speak, of when she launched her brand in the early 1990s.

Images courtesy of Nicole Miller/Think PR

Though this pre-fall 2017 collection is the polar opposite of what Miller has been presenting, there is retail value in the collection, particularly in some of the separates and footwear and handbag accessories. Standout looks in the collection include Miller’s black silk jumpsuit, pinstriped duster coat, and punk minidress with safety pins and padded shoulders.

—William S. Gooch

Missoni Pre-Fall 2017

January 3, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Mix and match has been a fashion mantra for several decades. Originally formulated in the early 1970s as a solution to a retracted fashion industry on the heels of a recessed American economy, fashion intellectuals sought to appeal to consumers who were spending less. Cajoling consumers to mix and match something new with something that was already in their wardrobe, mix and match has grown into a life of its own and is now a well-known component of the industry.

For the House of Missoni mixing and matching has always been a key component of the brand’s DNA, which also lies at the core of Missioni’s knitwear. For its pre-fall 2017 collection Missoni has re-interpreted their signature aesthetic of mixing and matching evidenced in the pre-fall 2017 collection.

The pre-fall 2017 collection breathes new life into perfectly coordinated looks, tonal variations, graphic chromatic contrasts, revisited iconic patterns, exclusive techniques and innovations echo the origins of the brand. Silhouettes accentuate the body as seen in the frock coats and slim dresses, godet skirts or flared-hem trousers cut above the ankle and paired with short-fitted, knit-tailored jackets. Outfits are coordinated with double-breasted gilets, cardigans and polos or with turtlenecks in varying micro and macro patterns. Checks, vertical stripes, greek frets, space dyes or zigzags in a recurring range of graded shades alternate between cobalt and blue, white and black. Long eveningwear ornamented with paillettes or ribbed lamé knits assembled in blocks are enriched, with their glimmering reflections and glamour, through the use of lace stitching, fringed hems and intricate techniques that overlap and misalign to create textural depth.

Images courtesy of C&M Media

What is the most attention grabbing in this pre-fall 2017 collection are the great short-fitted, knit-tailored jackets with matching, almost high water trousers. This look gave a nod to early 70s British mod style. By combining the mix and match aesthetic with vintage silhouettes, Missoni proves that a brand can recycle tried-and true looks and present in a way that has a dose of modernity and panache.

—William S. Gooch

UN:DO Uses Fashion as Art for Debut Collection

November 18, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Does art reflect life? Indeed, it does. However, the bigger question to ponder is if fashion reflects life. At times it does, and at other times fashion can be the whimsical expression of a designer or a response to what retail stores believe consumers want to buy. Still, when fashion and art meet at the intersection of life whether that life expression is reflected in pop culture, political realities or social change, the results are groundbreaking and ultimately iconic.

When Coco Chanel realized that the role of women in culture had shifted, she created garments that gave freedom of movement, reflecting the changing role of women in society. The bikini and the miniskirt were at the epicenter of the sexual revolution. Zandra Rhodes and Vivienne Westwood allowed their fashion collections to incorporate an anarchistic, irreverent response to Thatcherism. And 60s fashion was a reflective mirror to the freedom movements of Black Power, the Women’s Movement and Peace and Anti-War movements.

If fashion can conjure up images of freedom, liberation, anarchy, or even a political stance, then why can’t fashion comment on violence? Enter UN:DO.

For it debut collection, “UN:LOAD,” UN:DO’s creative director Jack Klauber looked to the epidemic of gun violence as a reference point. “Growing up on the southside suburbs of Chicago, I have experienced first hand the dire situation of gun violence in my own community, and have always felt a devoted need to help remedy it,” states Klauber. “Our partnership with Cure Violence was a no brainer for launching our first collection because not only does this profound non-profit originate from my hometown, it has sites all across America, and growing internationally. In addition to the fantastic work it does by reducing violence, it also provides much needed job opportunities to previously incarcerated individuals. Gun violence tears at the fabric of our society.”

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Each garment in the “UN:LOAD” collection is shot with a 12-gauge shotgun creating a uniquely tattered, distressed look to each garment. “UN:LOAD” aims to reduce gun violence through the lens of fashion by creating awareness and raising funds to save lives in communities across the US, with 20% of the profits going to the not-for-profit organization Cure Violence. UN:DO is an ethically “Made In New York” brand, inspired by Berlin culture and the increasingly trending Brooklyn aesthetic.

—Staff

Anne Barge Bridal Fall 2017

October 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

With Anne Barge there is always a story. And very good stories they are. From ballet heroines to nature’s ethereal tradition to the current inspiration of the Ziegfeld Follies, Barge consistently has a story tell. And fall bridal season provides the perfect opportunity to tell a story.

For fall 2017 Barge looked to the Ziegfeld Follies showgirls as a point of reference for the collection. And though this cultural motif might seem like a divergent theme for bridal, Barge ingeniously found a way to imbue the world of Ziegfeld glamour with her signature aesthetic of dewy, bridal sophistication!! In other words, Barge brings and old-world sexy back to bridal seen through the lens of a modern elegance and sophistication.

That said; now add the sensual, eye-popping Ziegfeld Follies–inspired bride to your lexicon of bridal glory. Barge vintage-like fall 2017 bridal gowns demonstrate that bridal gowns are not static, but ever evolving. And Barge’s fall 2017 collection is an indication on how bridal brands can borrow from the past and re-invent looks for the modern bride.

Though some of the looks in this fall 2017 collection were traditional, there were plenty of looks that would appeal to a younger bride looking for something more modern. Case in point, Barge’s Alencon lace crop top with double-diamond keyhole back and circular taffeta skirt.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks in the collection include Barge’s sleeveless column gown with bateau neckline and deep square back beaded throughout with crystals and pearls, plunging V-neck crepe satin gown with keyhole back featuring metallic embroidery, and strapless gown with notched and split-front accentuated with by beaded embroidery.

—William S. Gooch

Inbal Dror Bridal Fall 2017

October 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Inbal Dror chose Carnegie Hall as their location of choice for the brand’s fall 2017 bridal show. An ideal location it is for a bridal brand that has established a reputation for high-end couture-like bridal gowns.

For fall 2017 Inbal Dror drew heavily from the continuing ruffle trend, high-low gowns, and trans-seasonal design aesthetics that both use fall and spring fabrications. While Dror leaned toward trends that are currently in vogue, there was still a traditional perspective to the collection that went beyond contemporary bridal motivations.

Dror also revealed a softer, more feminine aspect to her bridal collection this season. There were a lot of ruffle embellishments, 3-D floral embellishments, sequined vine embroidery, and ombre petals. Dror’s inclusion of the ruffle trend in this collection popped up in organza ruffled trains, full skirts with ruffled trim, lace ruffle trim, and organza ruffled skirts.

There was also lots of silver embellishments in this collection, reminiscing the silvery chill of winter. And as we have come to expect, there was a youthful charm to this collection that reflects Dror’s preference for the nubile, svelte bridal customer.

Images courtesy of Inbal Dror

Standout looks in the collection were Dror’s ivory fully silver beaded sequined lace short can-can dress, silver rose and vine motif fully embroidered long sleeve gown with matching train, blush with silver beaded chiffon slip dress with flower burst long sleeve tulle over dress, nude tulle with full ivory vine motif embroidery and full detachable skirt, and nude fully sequined and embroidered shadow lace halter ball gown.

—William S. Gooch

RIVINI Bridal Fall 2017

October 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

RIVINI has long bee a bridal collection that prided itself on bridal gowns that emphasized fluid silhouettes with a meticulous attention to detail. Creative director Rita Visnieris, while continuing that brand’s signature DNA for fall 2017, expands RIVINI by injecting a light-handed sense of charm and an overall youthful quality.

“Renaissance idealism and fluidity meets 2017” was the creative motif for RIVINI’s fall 2017 collection. The modern sensibilities of sheer panels of fabric, understated beading and other low-key elements combined with renaissance-like lush fabrics, in this case crepes and lush silk satins, sweeping silhouettes and the subtle touches soft tucks and pleats produced a collection where the old meets the new but it is not overwhelmed by either.

Season after season, Rita Visnieris has produced that collections there were modern distillations on how modern brides envision themselves on their very special day. And while sometimes those collections contained bridal garments that were a few years ahead of its time and not necessarily retail friendly from a mass-market point of view, those collection did push the proverbial bridal envelope beyond common bridal fare.

That said; this fall 2017 goes beyond the fashion-as-art bridal gowns that sometimes were a part of past collections. Though this collection expanded the brand’s modern sensibility, the collection did not sacrifice retail viability for fashion-as-art bridal gowns. Also, though this collection did have a more youthful projection than some other outings there were some gowns in the collection that are appropriate for that more mature bride that is getting married for the second time, namely RIVINI’s hand-beaded sheer sheath in Dusk colder sleeve and corseted gown with all-over, hand-appliqued lace and bell sleeve.

There were a couple of bridal trends included in this fall 2017 collection which included off-the-shoulder and illusion bandeau treatments, as well as blouson and bell sleeves. Visnieris also combined your more youthful Alyne collection with RIVINI for this showing.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Standout looks in the collection include RIVINI’s fall 2017 illusion bandeau with cold shoulder bell sleeve and banded A-line chiffon, off-the-shoulder, paneled gown in graphic rose lace, with lace-up back, froth of layered pleated tulle ball gown with a translucent deep V-neck draped tulle bodice, and frothy skirt in ostrich feathers with sheer multi layered lace bodice and belle feather sleeve.

—William S. Gooch

Isabelle Armstrong Bridal Fall 2017

October 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Under new creative director Remy Quinones, Isabelle Armstrong has evolved as a brand that embraces a modern sensibility seen through intimate details and a timeless sophistication. Through the years, Isabelle Armstrong had set a standard for its classic bridal silhouettes and with Remy Quinones that will continue but with a more modern parlance that can appeal to a broader consumer base.

For fall 2017, Isabelle Armstrong celebrates a revitalized renaissance, juxtaposing the bold against the soft. This juxtaposition was particularly evident in this season’s liquid organza ball gown and the lace trumpet with high collar gown.

There was wide variety of bridal silhouettes in this collection, from fit-and-flare gowns, mermaid gowns, trumpet gowns to ball gowns and A-line gowns. Demonstrating that Quinones has created something for every kind of bride.

However, what stood out most about this collection was the combination of fabrics, silhouettes and intimate details in new and innovative ways. There were A-line gowns with a pleated tulle overlay, A-line with blouson sleeves and the liquid organza gown with a tulle overlay skirt. And there were also a few gowns with detachable skirts, giving brides a few options.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Though the Scarlett O’Hara-esque with ruffled capelet was a bit of stretch and the tiered tulle gown with empire waist works mostly on very slender gowns, the collection overall was a fashion-forward success. Standout looks in the collection include the silk gazar ball gown with beaded lace peplum and ruffle collar, Chantilly lace trumpet with V-neck embroidered bodice, liquid organza peplum ball gown with tulle underskirt, and lace trumpet with high collar illusion neckline ball gown with pearl embroidered bodice with tiered tulle skirt.

—William S. Gooch

Ines di Santo Bridal Fall 2017

October 9, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Are you familiar with the bridal wedding cake with fairytale bride on top? Of course, you are. Though that particular bridal accessory may seem a little ole skool and a thing of the past, many modern brides still yearn for that type of bride’s cake.

And so does Ines di Santo. For her bridal 2017 collection bridal cakes and all things confectionary inspired Ines di Santo. This fall 2017 bridal collection was like a fairytale explosion in a patisserie. (Imagine bridal cakes with floral designs, pastries with floral-inspired designs including vines, and sundry confections.)

And di Santo was able to accomplish this confectionary feat by creating gowns in a wide range of silhouettes from mermaid, fit-to-flare, high-low to column, ball gowns, A-line, and peplum-inspired gowns with deceptively simple embellishments. Where some bridal designers would have over-embellished the bridal looks in order to manifest the confectionary motif, di Santo brilliantly demonstrated her confectionary reference point by quietly adding sweet details that evoked a patisserie.

In seasons past, di Santo produced bridal collections that mostly used mermaid silhouettes that looked best on youthful, svelte modern brides that mimicked the Amazonian leggy models di Santo used in her collections. This season was quite different, there were many bridal garments in this fall 2017 collection that would look good a lot of types of modern brides, from dewy first-time brides to brides going down the aisle for the second time.

That said; there was a charming sweetness and an extra does of sexy spice in this fall 2017 outing. And the plethora of options in this collection can appeal to the expanded bridal audience that has discovered di Santo.

Images courtesy of wwd.com/George Chinisee/REX/Shutterstock

Standout looks in this collection include the sleeveless illusion soft pink romper with lace-embellished high-low train, strapless powder blue column gown with embroidered overlay and detachable multi-ruffle silk organza overskirt, asymmetrical strapless silk organza sheath with French tulle overlay, and sleeveless A-line gown with lace illusion bodice and printed silk organza skirt with pleats.

—William S. Gooch

Alfred Angelo Bridal Fall 2017

October 8, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Who doesn’t love a fairy tale wedding? Most brides have still have a romantic vision of that very special day. And season after season Alfred Angelo gives brides their fairy tale wedding.

After 80 years in the bridal industry, Alfred Angelo has continued to remain relevant by tapping into the wonder and whimsy of fairy tale weddings. And their affiliation with Disney assist the brand in rendering that special, romantic wedding gown that many brides yearn for.

For fall 2017, Alfred Angelo divided his bridal collection into three sections, Signature Alfred Angelo, Sapphire Alfred Angelo, and Modern Vintage Alfred Angelo with highlights from each sector. Where in past season the Alfred Angelo team would bless audiences with 60-looks plus, this season they wisely sectioned off the collection only giving industry professionals the best from each division. And there were two new elegant ball gowns that embraced Disney Fairy Tale Weddings.

The Signature Alfred Angelo collection is comprised of signature weddings gowns that reflect the Alfred Angelo brand DNA, and the Sapphire Alfred Angelo collection consists looks that reflect a modern fashion sensibility. While the Modern Vintage collection is made up of classic traditional bridal looks that never go out of style. Additionally, there are the Disney-inspired ball gowns that embrace romance, fantasy, and ethereal wonder.

Still, Alfred Angelo’s bridal gowns are not for that young bride that is looking for edgy bridal fare—Theia, YolanCris and Carol Hannah, come to mind—or brides looking for couture-like gowns—consider Ines Di Santo, Naeem Khan, or Inbal Dror. And that is fine!! Alfred Angelo’s gowns are for that bride who wants traditional looks with a modern twist that fulfill her idea of the fairy tale wedding.

This season Alfred Angelo offered something special, a few looks that can be worn on the red carpet or the day-before bridal breakfast. And this is a good move. Modern brides no longer are tied down to just down-the-aisle looks but are also interested in evening looks that go beyond wedding nuptials.

Images courtesy of Alfred Angelo

What stood out most about this collection were the two additional Disney gowns named after Belle from “Beauty and the Beast’, and the new ‘Cinderella’ gown. The ‘Cinderella’ gown was a dreamy wedding dress of tulle and sequin over satin. While the ‘Belle” gown features a corseted satin bodice with metallic embroidery and radiant Swarovski crystals and rhinestones.

—William S. Gooch