Front Row — Page 44

Michael Costello Fall 2017

February 10, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Without a doubt sexy, feminine clothes makes up Michael Costello’s oeuvre; there is no argument about that. The bigger question is if Michael Costello can turn his obsession with sexy into a viable collection that has retail value and appeals to a wider female demographic. Costello almost achieved this with his debut spring 2015 collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week and he got even closer with his spring 2016 outing during New York Fashion Week: The Shows.

Sometimes, with Costello there is inconsistency. Some seasons Costello’s brand of sexy is projected toward consumers that want to show all their physical gifts, giving a strong nod to decadent profundity. Other seasons there is more restraint with a healthy mix of sensuality, charm, and innovation.

Still, every season Costello gets close to the goal of achieving that special balance of sensual charm and boldness paired with innovative sensibility. Costello’s fall 2017 collection manifests that combination better than any outing thus far.

Everything is almost there in Costello’s fall 2017 collection. There is more sophistication, possible wider consumer appeal, some vintage mixed with now and next, and of course Costello’s brand of sexy is front and center.

Inspired by that powerful woman whose cool style sets her apart from other women, Costello’s ‘Histoire D’Amour’ collection presents this powerful woman at the height of sensual allure and influence. This woman’s charisma is so compelling that all who encounter her charm want to be associated with her and document the many loves of her life.

“The story of this collection was a vixen’s love story,” explains Charlotte Welch, stylist for Michael Costello’s fall 2017 collection. “This is the cool girl who falls in love, and the styling had to support that idea. We have to keep the girl cool and edgy so I went sunglasses, belts, some cool jewelry, and hat accessories to forward Michael’s story of that cool girl.”

True to form, Costello’s fall 2017 collection is a cornucopia of plunging décolletage, diaphanous sheers, high slits and form-fitting silhouettes. What set this collection apart from other Costello collections that employ similar elements are some sensual restraint and overall more compelling silhouettes. Costello’s va va voom is still a primary focus of this fall 2017 outing; however, Costello has pared down his penchant for overt sexiness to appeal to a wider demographic.

Costello also references certain eras of American sexiness in this collection. From 50s mermaid silhouettes to 70s disco glam to 80s power woman structured silhouettes, Costello finds a way to stir all this seemingly disparate feminine silhouettes into one pot and render a relatively cohesive collection.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

At first glance, Costello’s predilection for a white color palette with floral and lace embellishments conjures up images of bridal collections. However, with the specific styling of the collection, Costello elevates his penchant for white beyond bridal. “I knew going into this show that Michael was going to use a lot of white, which can mean bridal, so that was my styling challenge. So I had to use styling, makeup and hair to take the collection out of a bridal aesthetic. Of course, brides can wear many of the garments, but that is not the reference point of this collection,” detailed Welch. “We have brought in a lot of trends to elevate the collection of a bridal aesthetic. We have the rose gold trend, belting at the waist—brought back from the nineties—, and chunky jewelry.”

With this fall 2017 collection, Costello boldly responds to the question of market viability and an expanding demographic with a resounding yes. May the magic continue!!

—William S. Gooch

Desigual Fall 2017

February 10, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

It can be argued that fashion reflects life. If ever observed the British fashion of the late 70s and early 80s that embraced the punk lifestyle that was a direct opposition to the austerity of the Thatcher regime or the feminine power suit of the mid-80s paired with oversized jewelry, reflecting the excesses of the 1980s, there is not doubt that fashion in a microcosm of life.

Whether fashion brands comment on mainstream cultures or subcultures, at its core fashion is not separate from culture. That said; Desigual was inspired by the subcultures of the 1960s, 70s, and 80s. (Think the 60s liberation movements, 70s punk culture, and 80s nightclub culture.)

For Desigual the counterculture represents the underground vogue dance craze of 1980s, and Sunset Strip’s rock culture of the 70s, and psychedelic of the late 60s. What once considers counter culture is now mainstream, and Desigual in this outing sought to take consumers back to what was once outré, concentrating on elements of the counter culture movements that are wearable and consumer friendly.

As always, Desigual’s genius is in its separates and for its fall 2017 collection its outerwear is perhaps its best distillation on outerwear ever. Layering also plays a key role in Desigual’s style DNA and works extremely well with its celebration of counter cultures.

Though this collection is perhaps a homage to the past subcultures, the collection is not weighted down by this reference point. The garments have a youthfulness and freshness that though giving a nod to the past is totally accessible to modern consumers.

Images courtesy of Getty Images

If there is one drawback to this collection, as in seasons past, some of the best pieces in Desigual’s collections never end up in retails stores. This fall 2017 is chocked full of great garments and hopefully many of these great looks will be accessible to consumers.

—William S. Gooch

Nicholas K Fall 2017

February 10, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Don’t you know
They’re talkin’ ’bout a revolution
It sounds like a whisper
Don’t you know
They’re talkin’ about a revolution

—Tracy Chapman

Nicholas K is talking about a revolution, a revolution of sorts in their approach to their design aesthetic. And it is not a whisper, but an in-your-face political expression made evident in their fall 2017 collection.

Nicholas K has established itself as a brand that has successfully married a nomadic chic aesthetic with an urban chic style. For over one decade Nicholas K has revisited their design DNA, finding new and interesting ways to expand upon a signature looks that immediately identifiable. And for fall 2017 the brand’s signature aesthetic is still in place. However, Nicholas K’s fall 2017 collection does not begin and finish with their nomadic chic aesthetic.

Realizing that fashion is a microcosm of society and culture in real time, Nicholas K’s fall 2017 collection drew heavily from revolutionary movements of the last 50 years, seen through the prism of the current political landscape of uncertainty, xenophobia, isolationism, and retraction. And though this revolutionary-inspired collection at its core pays homage to the hip-hop movement of the 1990s with its community building and solidarity-infused musical messages—think Arrested Development, Erykah Badu, and Soul II Soul—, those musical messages had their roots in the liberation movements of the 60s and 70s.

This intersectionality of music, movement, and political uncertainties is expressed in fall 2017 collection that celebrates determined, powerful women who have a clear fashion voice and wear their humanity and political convictions on their bodies. And in this collection that woman is sexy, fashion-forward and oh so chic! In common language, this season the Nicholas K woman is a powerful, bad ass b*tch!!

Nicholas K in their fall 2017 collection brought back some iconic and interesting fashion elements—you could say some vintage looks. This vintage looks were detailed, layered, and paired in ways that expressed a modern woman’s ability to combine sensuality, consciousness, and style. These fashion adjectives are no longer disparate bedfellows, but meet at the intersection of how the current style diva expresses her raison d’etre.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

With 90s hip-hop style-music featuring Latasha Alcindor blaring in the background, the opening looks—Black Power berets, metallic trench coats, crush velvet jackets, and leather wrap dresses— creative directors Christopher and Nicholas Kuntz demonstrated that they have their pulses on the current wave of fashion meeting political influences. Standout looks in the collection, and there were many, include the brand’s gold metallic shearling coat with gold beret and gold metallic skirt, red leather wrap dress with red beret, burnt orange crush velvet jacket with burnt orange crush velvet breeches, and tan wrap blouse with tan oversized parka.

—William S. Gooch

Rich by Richie Rich Fall 2017

February 9, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Richie Rich is back on the New York Fashion Week calendar. After several years away for the New York Fashion scene, Richie Rich used Style Fashion Week as the venue to re-introduce himself and his new fashion brand, Rich by Richie Rich to industry professionals.

One would have hoped that is the five years since Richie Rich has presented a collection in New York City that Richie would have evolved his design aesthetic. In some respects he has; however, there was still a lot of off-the-beaten-path, crazy club clothes in this “Popoganda” collection. In fact, many garments in this collection that might conjure up images of club clothes are no longer club clothes for the current generation of club goers.

Richie Rich did attempt to dress his woman at her point in her day. There were leather color-blocked skirts that might work for daywear, some hoodies with logos that might reflect street wear and metallic body suites and leotards that could be deemed club clothes. Still, overall this was a disjointed collection that reflects what Richie Rich created when was a co-creator with Heatherette. However, the Heatherette days are over and consumers want something more than a party on the runway. (And this wasn’t even much of party; mostly it was a circus.) They want clothes that they can actually wear.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Richie Rich should look to brands like The Blonds, Telfar, and Libertine who, though not everyone’s taste, over the years have established a loyal base of consumers who anticipate new collections. Richie Rich take notice!!

—William S. Gooch

General Idea Men’s Fall 2017

February 4, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

General Idea is back!! After a few seasons of rather lackluster collections, General Idea for fall 2017 has found its oeuvre. Always recognized as a brand that really has its fingers on the pulse of how stylish men want to dress, particularly when it came to outerwear, it appeared that for a few collections General Idea had lost its way.

For fall 2017 General Idea went back to some basics that defined the brand since its inception. The fall 2017 collection was practically a dissertation on what has worked for General Idea over the past decade; updated street wear looks, oversized coats, innovative embellishments, and layering of different fabrications.

Creative Director Bumsuk Choi went back to the brand’s penchant for street wear for this collection. Over the past two decades it seems that some Asian designers—Kye, 87MM, D.GNAK by KANG.D, and Concept Korea collectives—have developed an innate ability to reinterpret American street wear fashion, inject some Asia influences, causing industry professionals to experience street wear in new and interesting ways.

With this fall 2017 outing General Idea adopted the ‘less is more’ concept, and while some looks did have much of an impact on the runway, there were a wide array of outerwear looks that would appeal to American consumers, both male and female. In fact, several of the more gender non-specific looks in the collection helped the brand to expand its audience to include more female consumers. This is a very smart move in in a retail market that is in sharp decline.

Bumsuk Choi did make his more simple looks have more punch by adding big zippers and grommets and other innovative hardware. However, the genius of this collection was in the fabric choices and layering.

Fabric choices that stood out the most was the boxy furry fleece and faux calf hair. And the color standout of this fall 2017 collection was Choi’s choice of the deep forest green.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Standout looks include the grey wool oversized coat with wool knit turtleneck, navy cotton shirt with zipper detail with grey wool pants with eyelet belt detail, burgundy faux hair coat with eyelet detail, green wool biker jacket, and black wool coat with eyelet tape detail.

—William S. Gooch

Loris Diran Men’s Fall 2017

February 3, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Sometimes, it just takes time. Loris Diran has been a part of the fashion industry for two decades now. And though many industry professionals may be aware of Loris Diran for his women’s wear, Diran has always had a presence in the menswear market.

For fall 2017 Loris Diran looked to his travels in India and China. (Diran is the creative director of a menswear brand in China.) In this collection entitled “Back 2 Black,” the melding of East meets West was perhaps the most dominant overarching theme, other than Diran’s obsession with the monochromatic neutral tones of black, grey, steel grey, pewter, navy blue and the occasional white layered tee shirt.

For several seasons industry professionals have been anxiously waiting for Diran to find his menswear oeuvre. It has been obvious to those fashion insiders who know Loris Diran well that the talent and potential was there. It just needed to be unearthed. Finally, in this men’s fall 2017 outing Diran’s gift for creating contemporary garments that a wide men’s demographic could relate to met his potential for next and now menswear. There is something in this collection for almost every man, suiting, athleisure wear, casual urban chic menswear, and contemporary office attire.

Though many of the looks and combinations of garments in this collection we had seen before, in this collection Diran managed to present menswear that was current while still projecting toward the future. Never isolating the male consumer looking for great separates to compliment their wardrobe.

Images courtesy of WWD/REX/Shutterstock

Diran also ingeniously paired recognizable Asian influences—variations on Mandarin jackets and military wool field coats combined with ankle-grazing palazzo slacks—with fitted pants and leggings and comfortable color blocked sweaters in neutral tones. Another successful element in this collection was Diran’s separates and layering. And though Diran’s use of slogans in white type of tee shirts was a bit and gimmicky, reflecting a trend many menswear designers are using this season, overall Diran’s fall 2017 menswear collection was a sophisticated dissertation on where menswear is and should be going.

—William S. Gooch

Nautica Men’s Fall 2017

February 1, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

The 1990s are back!! And with this return to the 90s, Nautica has also brought back color blocking, bold color and street wear meets sportswear. And while Nautica has established itself as a brand solidly focused on accessible American sportswear, in this fall 2017 outing, Nautica brought a little grunge messiness back, which is a good thing. We are living in messy times!!

In a time of seismic political change, unrest and uncertainty, Nautica takes us back to a time when the future seem unhampered by political division and social unrest, a time of economic prosperity and creative abundance. Remember, in the 1990s Supermodels Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer ruled the runways. Supermodel Kate Moss’ star was on the rise as the fashion queen of grunge. And Nautica was one of the cool and coveted go-to brands for American sportswear.

For fall 2017 Nautica’s creative director Steve McSween went into the Nautica archives and takes consumers back to that time. But not exactly, this homage to Nautica of the 1990s is seen through the lens of updated classics and a re-imagined heritage. In the 90s, Nautica introduced bold color and color blocking, the mix of sportswear and street wear, and dark jean washes with distressed edges. All these vintage 90s looks are back in this collection, reintroduced to millenials. And though Nautica might see re-introduction as a safe move, there is a certain comfort and market sustainability in this reinvention of Nautica’s heritage looks.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

For fall 2017, Nautica re-introduces the nylon jacket with side paneling and the Nautica logo on the sleeve, polar fleece, bucket hats, and a quarter-zip Sherpa pullover. Standouts in this fall 2017 outing, and there were many, include true red goose down extreme parka with jet navy wool single-breasted jacket, indigo cotton blazer with burgundy cotton quarter zip sweater, cream wool pea coat with red fade cotton cable sweater, and yellow nylon fisherman jacket with jet navy stripped nylon jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Samuelsohn Men’s Fall 2017

January 31, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of mr-mag.com

How do you pique menswear editors’ interest for New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) when a good portion of the collections showcased are comfortably situated in the American sportswear vein? One way to stimulate conversation and interest is to pull out the gimmicks and props.

In its fourth season NYFWM has still failed to curate high-end, luxury European designers. Though the NYFWM was originally launched to keep mainstream American sportswear designers, namely Michael Bastian, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, and Billy Reid showing in New York City and not opting out for Paris, London, and London. To that effect the CFDA, the governing body for NYFWM, has been partially successful. (Billy Reid, John Varvatos, and Ralph Lauren still show in NYC.)

Images courtesy of nowfashion.com

That said; keeping American sportswear designers in tact was not the only motivation. Wagging tongues contend that the powers that be also hoped to attract luxury menswear European brands. Since that has yet to happen, enter pomp and circumstance and addendum; in other words a parade of extras.

In Samuelsohn’s case, the additional backdrop of setting their fall 2017 collection on an ice rink with Eric Radford, 2014 Olympic pairs figure skating medalist, worked!! Inspired by Monte Bianco, which is capped in ice year round, Chief Creative Officer Arnold Brant Silverstone referenced the foothills of Monte Bianco’s autumn color palette of hues of garnet and wine combined with a snowcapped kaleidoscope of silver, white and ice blue in this outing.

Also used in this collection was Samuelsohn’s exclusive ice technology of luxury wools and cashmeres that are eco-friendly and non-toxic. These innovative ice technology fabrications incorporate isothermal properties, maintaining an optimal body microclimate while offering water resistance, wrinkle recovery, natural stretch and breathability.

Image courtesy of ink31.com

Standout looks in this fall 2017 collection include the tartan plaid vest and soft trousers in Ice Wool, alpaca boucle raglan sleeve coat in wool mohair, yarn-dyed cotton line blend velvet in a double-breasted peak lapel, and Ice Cashmere zibeline finish coat with silver fox collar.

—William S. Gooch

Raun LaRose Men’s Fall 2017

January 31, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Though New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) focuses a significant amount of attention on tried-and-true American sportswear brands, Ralph Lauren, Nautica, Todd Snyder, and Billy Reid, in its fourth season the CFDA has placed a huge emphasis on emerging brands that stretch the proverbial fashion envelope of men’s fashion. Raun LaRose is one such brand.

Inspired by the distorted art formalist Erwin Wurm and skateboard and hip-hop cultures of the 1990s, Raun LaRose’s “To Whom It May Concern” debut fall 2017 collection was a slight departure from the stand American sportswear brands some male consumers might be accustomed to. And that is a good thing!!

Oversized jackets, slacks and asymmetrical tops are key components to Raun LaRose’s fall 2017 collection. And though this collection did mirror Duckie Brown’s spring 2016 collection, there are some key differences and perspective that sets this collection apart from Duckie Brown’s spring 2016 outing.

This collection was all about exaggeration, but unlike Duckie Brown’s spring 2016 collection, many of the garments are wearable and would be appealing to a young male demographic. Perhaps, Duckie Brown was a few seasons ahead of its time, or maybe Raun LaRose just does it better!!

Images courtesy of DMJ Publications

The exaggerated, satirical nature of Erwin Wurm’s art is a big influence in this collection, evidenced in garments that at their core are standards of most American male’s wardrobe. Most male consumers have bubble coats, loose trousers and sweaters. LaRose takes these standards and adding his own unique twist by oversizing every garment, even to the extent of a comic caricature of wardrobe staples. Still, many of the looks are wearable, reminiscent of oversized 90s garb from hip-hop and skateboard culture.

Standout looks in the collection are the brand’s beryl green quilted PVC bubble throw, cream oversized laminated hooded puffer with detachable fur, and brown speckled tweed cropped varsity.

—William S. Gooch

PORTS 1961 Pre-Fall 2017

January 26, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

PORTS 1961 has never been a fashion brand for the unadventurous of those who gallop with the crowd. And PORTS 1961’s pre-fall 2017 collection, though more consumer friendly when it comes to many of the separates, is still for that fashionista that pushes the proverbial fashion envelope.

For pre-fall 2017, PORTS 1961 looks to relaxed elegance seen through the lens of modernity and multi-functionality. The brand incorporates stripes that pop up throughout the collection and some floral treatments that are interesting and unique take on insignias and decals. The floral treatments appear to evoke flowery vases one might find in PORTS 1961’s showroom.

That said; PORTS 1961’s stripes and plaids are ubiquitous through the collection, ingeniously utilized in oversized sweaters, overcoats, skirts, asymmetrical tops, and dresses. And though the blanket-like fabrications in this collection conjure images of comfort and familiarity, there is an edge to this outing that places this collection in the category of now and next.

Images courtesy of PORTS 1961

Under the aegis of PORTS 1961’s women’s wear creative director Natasa Cagalj, the brand had become more accessible and consumer friendly. Still, PORTS 1961 is still an acquired taste. But once the taste has been acquired, it is savory and addictive. Vive la difference!!

—William S. Gooch