Front Row — Page 39

Francesca Miranda Bridal Spring 2019

April 14, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

One could say this was the bridal season of the ballerina, well, sort of. Dancers inspired bridal designer Gracy Accad for her spring 2019 bridal collection, with Accad presenting her collection at Alvin Ailey Dance Center. And for the spring 2019 bridal season, dance and movement also inspired Francesca Miranda.

“This is my homage to the grace and movement of ballerinas, particularly one, Gloria Miranda, my mother. In the way I think of her most, dancing on the stages of New York City theaters,” said Francesca Miranda in show notes for her spring 2019 bridal collection.

Though this collection was quite small, ten bridal gowns, compared to Miranda’s collections during her other bridal collections, it was a very thoughtful, honest, effective collection. And Miranda named each bridal garment after famous ballerina and ballet dancers—Marianina represents former ABT principal dancer Marianna Tcherkassky; Agnes for Agnes DeMille; Natalia gives homage to Natalia Markarova; Noella for former Paris Opera Ballet prima ballerina Noella Pontois, and Ninette conjures up Royal Ballet founder Ninette de Valois.

Paying homage to the ballet world, Miranda created bridal gowns with very fitted bodices with wide, flowy, diaphanous skirts. This was made evident in removable soft pleated, ‘tutu’ tulle mini skirts, strapless, gowns with criss-crossed ribbons reminiscent of pointe shoe ribbons, pleated chiffon gown wrapped around in ribbons, and the basket-weaved Italian ball gown adorned with hand-embroidered bodice of silk-thread pieces and Swarovski crystals.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout bridal gowns in this collection were the brand’s modern A-line silhouette with a deep v-neckline that is enhanced with lace lining and adorned with criss-crossed ribbons, high-low hand-embroidered tulle skirt over crepe skinny pants, and off-white and beige hand-dyed and painted organza ball-gown.—William S. Gooch

Mira Zwillinger Bridal Spring 2019

April 14, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

New York International Bridal Week is becoming one of the highlights of the fashion season. And there are many reasons for this phenomenon. First, many fashion editors, photographers and industry professionals that have become disillusioned with New York Fashion Week are opting to cover Bridal Week because of its support of fashion industry professionals over bloggers, social media influences, and sundry posers and odd personalities.

But, that is only one part of the shift. The primary shift is due to bridal designers continuing season after season to bring innovation and a refined beauty with a modern sensibility to their collections. Mira Zwillinger is one of those bridal designers that continues to evolve their bridal design aesthetic.Fashion Reverie has been reviewing Mira Zwillinger for about five seasons, and over that period of time Mira Zwillinger has continued to inject a modern sensibility married with beauty, elegance, and retail viability. The spring 2019 collection was no exception continuing on this trajectory.

Inspired by wintry and icy references, Zwillinger’s “Queen of Ice” bridal collection beautifully distilled the regal, sophisticated, yet modern, dreamy winter reference, for the modern bride that wants more than traditional bridal silhouettes, but doesn’t want to stray too far in the realm of the outré and avant garde. This wintry trajectory was beautifully realized in some of the embellishments, particularly the dégradé mirror paiete, silver leaf and beaded organza leaf appliqué, sparkle mesh, and vertical dégradé sequins.

Interestingly, Zwillinger chose a winter projection during the spring 2019 bridal collections. Perhaps, this winter in spring bridal collection is reflecting a growing trend in which many bridal designers are opting to only show once a year, something that Zwillinger used to do. The pressure to meet consumer demands for immediate access to collections due to the so-called democratization elements in the fashion industry is causing fashion designers from all sectors of the industry to reconsider the retail relevance of showing twice a year. Maybe, Mira Zwillinger is bending to the pressure. Hmm, time will tell!!

Images courtesy of Dan Lecca/Atelier PR

That said; the standout looks in this collection were the brand’s strapless sweetheart gown with tulle over sparkle mesh and dégradé mirror paiete with Julient cap tulle, off-the-shoulder gown with full vertical sequins, jumpsuit with vertical degrade sequins, strapless lame Mikado ball gown with 3D floral appliqués lame Mikado cape, and strapless crepe sheath gown with lace waist inset.—William S. Gooch

THEIA Bridal Spring 2019

April 13, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

It became very obvious that during the New York International Bridal Week season that a lot of bridal brands where influenced by the upcoming nuptials of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle. THEIA did not stray far away from this almost ubiquitous trend by paying homage to the royal couple with a slight twist.True to form, THEIA always finds a way to incorporate a prevailing trend or a theme while maintaining its signature aesthetic. This season THEIA’s Creative Director Don O’Neill decided to veer away from the brand’s usual bridal bohemian aesthetic and embrace an aesthetic that was more regal and imperial. This regal direction was developed along the brand’s penchant for embellished bodices and soft ballgown skirts of silk chiffon and lace. With a background that was reminiscent of a Baroque opulent palace and all its gilded beauty, for spring 2019 THEIA created bridal gowns that fit quite nicely into this majestic environment.

For spring 2019, THEIA has created a bridal collection for that bride that wants imperial glory. This modern princess bride is confident, sexy, feminine and coolly aristocratic.Though this spring 2019 bridal collection projected regal modernity, there were several silhouettes in this collection that harkened back to looks that Aubrey Hepburn would have donned in the classic films “Sabrina and “Roman Holiday.” Bridal gowns that reflected those classic films of the 1950s include the champagne brocade ball gown, hand embroidered with baroque silver zardozi and crystal scrollwork and silk organza, and ivory re-embroidered lace triple-tiered halter gown. And the showpiece champagne brocade ball gown, hand embroidered with baroque silver zardozi and crystal scrollwork reflected the imperial theme and slightly harkened back to Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” would not be a gown that a lot of modern brides would choose, it was fantastic that Don O’Neill included this fantastic showpiece bridal gown in the collection.

Similar to last season, O’Neill included a curvy model in his lineup of models this season. And as in last season, the curvy model blended in seamlessly with the other models.

Images courtesy of THEIA

Standout looks in this spring 2019 collection includes the ivory sleeveless “V” neck mermaid gown festooned with hand-embroidered Swarovski crystal and glass beads, ivory crepe-fitted Halter gown worn under the “Riley” cape, and porcelain ball gown encrusted with lacquered sequin flowers, pearls and 3-D tulle leaves.—William S. Gooch

Gracy Accad Bridal Spring 2019

April 13, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

Gracy Accad has figured out a few things, and she has come to some solid conclusions in just two seasons showcasing her bridal collections during New York International Bridal Week. One of the things that she has figured out correctly is that the modern bride wants choices. And though those choices can be varied, the choices should stray too far away from what the modern bridal consumer will wear.

In her debut fall 2018 Gracy Accad was on her way to figuring this balance out. It was an auspicious start, but she wasn’t quite there just yet. For spring 2019, Accad demonstrated that she has not only arrived but they she is way ahead of the curve.Inspired by dance, Accad’s spring 2019 bridal collection had many things that the modern bride would want. The collection contained those cute, sexy, and very modern pre-nuptial party bridal garments that could also work for that bride that desires a non-traditional outfit for their bridal ceremony—case in point, the collection’s beaded romper with organza ballet wrap, short white moto dress in guipure lace with rose cloque pattern skirt, and lace bustier catsuit with organza peplum overlay.

Still, this collection was grounded in classic bridal silhouette, demonstrating that Accad has a solid handle on the fact that the modern bridal consumer is not abandoning classic silhouette, they just want some modern sensibilities with some whimsical twists and turns, which this collection has plenty of. And Accad’s ballet references, though subtle and faint at times, at a closer observation give this collection just the right balance of whimsy and aspiration.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in the collection include the aforementioned three bridal party looks and the off-white corded lace gown with Victorian neckline, fitted ballet-inspired bodice with embroidered and beaded organza skirt, pale pink organza hand-painted floral ball skirt with guipure lace crop top, and strapless all-over floral with beaded embroidered ball gown.—William S. Gooch

Los Angeles Fashion Week Fall 2018 Recap

March 26, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of youtube.com

Los Angeles Fashion Week (LAFW) took place on March 16-March 18. And this season was simply an experience for the books. Leave it to LA designers to turn the runway into the red carpet. A symbolic adoption of how the runway quickly adapts to the meaning of ‘what is fashion week?’. This season’s schedule was full of unconventional, inspiring, organic talent that left a digital footprint on the women’s fall 2018 shows. This is LAFW—where realness is met on the runway in an unconventional performance. Could it be that the newest faces are the ones really stealing the show? One can assume this might be what the fashion industry craves?Here are three Los Angeles designers that had Fashion Reverie wanting more:

Photos courtesy of Jordan Millington/LA Times

Maison the FauxOne of the more unconventional shows during LAFW, Maison the Faux showcased ‘The Premiere” at LAFW; located back-of-house at NeueHouse loading docks, turning those in attendance to a paparazzi takeover. Known as a creative studio, Maison the Faux aspires to liberate the narrow-minded world. Where the love of fashion translates a new outlook, human wear. “The Premiere” performance was a creative collaboration with Maavven and choreographer Nina McNeely where they challenged human wear, originality and the mayhem over red carpets.

Among Maison the Faux everyday models, this unfinished couture fashion house stood out. Maybe because of the eccentric fans and celebrities that paraded down the Faux red carpet. Or mainly because it consisted all the popular trends for 2018: leather, plaid, micro-sunnies, animal prints, stripes, and omg are tights having a moment?

Photos courtesy of Beyond Beauty School

Pia Gladys PereyThis season, Pia Gladys Perey showcased diversity in style, race, and body image. PGP is a diverse label for the woman of today with a glamorous romantic flair, honoring femininity. The brand worked together to create pieces seconds before the show started. Thus capturing sensual shapes, and dramatic drapes within the collection. PGP continues to be a force to be reckoned with, dressing all the whos who of Hollywood.

Photos courtesy of Michael Leyva

Michael LeyvaIn the Michael Leyva fall 2018, models not only walked the runway, they floated. A rising Filipino designer, Michael Leyva is known for his detailed designs, body-cinching bodices, high splits and volume on volume. His attention to detail and play on many fabrics—sequins, fringe, translucent, ostrich feathers—has set him apart in the industry. Leyva has reaped the rewards of his hard work and dedication with a standing ovation following his showcase.

—Courtney S. Wilkins

Bibhu Mohapatra Fall 2018

February 12, 2018 by admin Leave a Comment

Bibhu Mohapatra is one of those go-to shows during New York Fashion: The Shows. Season after season, Bibhu Mohapatra has proven that he continuously has his finger on the pulse of what women want to wear.

This season was no exception; however, the rich embroideries and embellishments and the luxury design aesthetics that we have come to expect from Bibhu Mohapatra was not as front and center as seen in previous collections. And though this fall 2018 collection was lovely with more of an injection of youthful insouciance and retail viability, the ‘fashion as art’ aspect—something most fashion pundits love about Bibhu Mohapatra—of Mohapatra’s collection took a backseat to the brand’s projection toward a more youthful market.A few seasons back Mohapatra had to reorganize his company in order to move his brand forward and get rid of some obligations that was keeping the brand from evolving. One of the evolutions that were front and center this season is the brand’s introduction of Sashi by Bibhu, a more contemporary separates line at affordable prices. This price accessible line, though beautiful in its on right, pales in comparison to what most fashion insiders have come to expect from BIbhu Mohapatra.For his fall 2018 collection, the Dickensian characters found in Great Expectations—in particular, an adult Estella and Miss Havisham inspired Bibhu Mohapatra. For those familiar with Miss Havisham and Estella, both characters represent unrequited love. In Miss Havisham’s case, abandoned at the wedding altar, Miss Havisham lives her life wearing her wedding gown, reflecting on what could have been. While Estella, though raised to be an elegant and proper Englishwoman, uses her grace and many acquired charms to entice suitors without ever having an intention of manifesting true love for anyone. Like many noblewomen of her class and status, expressing emotion and affectation don’t come naturally.Mohapatra’s color palette of pale greys, orchid reds and magentas, shimmery silvers reflect colors and hues that relate to the characters in Dickens’ Great Expectations. The pale greys and shimmery silvers denote Miss Havisham’s faded glory and her never-used bridal gown, and orchid red and magenta reflects Estella’s youthful ardent vibrancy and bloom still on the rose. And Mohapatra’s jewel-encrusted coats and beaded turbans reflect the elegance and aristocratic brilliance of that time.

Images courtesy of Marcus Tondo/Indigital.tv/vogue.com

That said; though this collection was fresh and beautiful, many fashion insiders miss Mohapatra’s fashion risk-taking of last season. And though Mohapatra’s ‘fashion as art’ garments from previous seasons may have only appealed to a niche market, it sure made fashionistas eyes sparkle.—William S. Gooch

Missoni Pre-Fall 2018

December 7, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

For pre-fall 2018 Missoni sought to re-establish its street cred. And that is a good thing. Understanding the Millenials and Generation X may not be as aware or attracted to the brand’s crazy quilt, zig-zag patterned knitwear aesthetic, Missoni is exploring a youthful, contemporary image to re-invigorate its image. (Remember, the brand reached its peak in the early 1970s after being heralded by Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland.)

With its kaleidoscope of color and zig-zag patterns, Missoni evokes the style and culture of the early 70s. This continued 70s vibe might work for fashionistas that love paying homage to the free-spirited style of the early 70s or in a season where designers are referencing the era of boho freedom, but for many younger consumers this style perspective is not appealing and beyond their fashion knowledge. Mainly due to the fact that Millenials and Generation Xers where born in the mid-80s and 90s.Missoni’s new, fresh approach does have an immediate appeal. And Fashion Reverie suspects that Millenials and Generation Xers will definitely come on board. With Missoni’s logo popping up on several of the pieces in this pre-fall 2018 collection—remember, brand logos are a big trend this season—and an injection of masculine silhouettes evidenced in oversized coats and androgynous looks that could be worn by either sexes, as well as a more youthful point of view, the brand is on its way to re-imagining its design aesthetic.This re-imagination does not signify a complete revamp. There are still the signature cornucopia of patterns and floral influences that Missoni is known for.

Images courtesy of C&M Media

Standout looks in the collection was the brand’s luxurious shearling coats and mink fur-stripped jackets. Also, the brand’s geometric patterns embossed on tight leather jeans, crochet maxi cardigans, and patchwork silk dresses embellished with fringe and floral patterns.—William S. Gooch

Ines di Santo Bridal Fall 2018

October 7, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

For the fall 2018 bridal season Ines di Santo was inspired by New York City and the vibrant women that make New York City a global cultural and creative international capital. This was all set against the panoramic background of Central Park and Columbus Circle as seen through the windows of Rose Hall at Jazz at Lincoln Center.

And the chamber orchestra also added to the allure and grandeur of spring 2018 outing. After all, what would a collection that used the Rose Hall at Jazz at Lincoln Center as a venue be without live music.Though this inspiration has used many times before by a huge coterie of designers from women’s ready-to-wear to menswear and bridal, Ines di Santo brought her own signature aesthetic of bridal couture with an injection of di Santo’s special blend of sensuality and modern sensibility, setting her a part from other designers that have used New York City as a reference point.

What worked best in this fall 2018 collection was that di Santo maintained her signature design aesthetic of beaded elegance and uniquely embroidered fabrics on classic mermaid silhouettes and ball gowns—which always evoke sophistication and charm—while still demonstrating that she is not stuck in the past, understanding that modern brides want classic elegance with an infusion of modern glamour.Ines di Santo continues to expand her design aesthetic to include looks that a huge range of brides can embrace. From this fall 2018 collection’s one shoulder illusion back sheath with textured detachable embellished train to the ruched sweetheart trumpet gown with embellished long cape to the dramatic, encrusted long cape over halter jumpsuit, di Santo has stayed in step with where bridal couture is heading.

That said; this bridal collection is for brides that have deep pockets. When you have bridal gowns with organza capes, gowns with heavily embroidered trains, and pearl encrusted gowns with handkerchief skirt—which means layers and layers of very expensive fabrics—expect to break the bank.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection include the collection’s one-shoulder dramatic sheath with organza bow cape, sweetheart ruched trumpet gown with Swarovski crystal brooch, off-the-shoulder sweetheart sheath with detachable bow and streamers, and dramatic encrusted long cape over halter jumpsuit.—William S. Gooch

Justin Alexander Bridal Fall 2018

October 7, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Justin Alexander’s design team brings expertise and creativity to the brand’s fall 2018 collection, making the collection a great fit for any bride. While there was a particular dreaminess to the 2018 collection, there was also a remarkable simplicity to the clean and elegant silhouettes.

Last season, the brand injected some glam and flash; however, this season it was all about the classic silhouettes. That isn’t to say that this classic approach produced a mundane collection. “My inspiration for fall 2018 was drama by silhouette, simplicity and embellishment,” said Justin Warshaw, president of Justin Alexander. In that regard, they showed voluminous silhouettes, linear beadwork, 3-D floral embellishments, and floral lacework to compliment the collection’s modern, architectural projection.For the fall 2018 bridal season, Justin Alexander decided to give brides something new. The brand experimented with a new fabric called double crepe, which is very structural and stretchy, designed to beautifully layer on a wedding dress.

In an era of athleisure and sportswear, in a surprising turn of events, classicism or preppy style is making a comeback. Like all things in fashion, the cycle was bound to come about again, and it is making its way through the bridal industry. Those types of young ladies who attended the Dwight School on the Upper West Side a decade ago are now mature young women, and have further cultivated their preppy tastes.

Those same young ladies are also in their prime to marry the men of their dreams, and Justin Alexander is here to help make that dream come true. “Simplicity and sophistication with a modern edge is in high demand right now,” Warshaw said. “We’ve gone for a subtler look with embellishments this season. Customers don’t want that over-the-top look.”

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Where the nude aesthetic, tattooed sleeves, and illusion bodices were popular among the bridal sector for several seasons, today’s bride wants to look different. In Warshaw’s words, the quintessential Justin Alexander customer is “sophisticated, refined and glamorous.” Their customers might not be dreaming of the Princess Diana look, but they want sophisticated chicness, nonetheless.—Kristopher Fraser

BERTA Bridal Fall 2018

October 6, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

BERTA has set itself apart from other luxury bridal brands by being the go-to brand for embellishment, sparkle and a whole lot of shine, using the finest fabrics. That point of view continues for fall 2018 with BERTA using new technologies combined with its fine fabrics.

These masterful fabrications are all played against a background of vintage silhouettes that the bridal customer is very familiar with. And though the classic silhouettes are front and center in the collection, seen through of lens of late 1970s sensuality, the collection does not seem staid and a homage to the past.One of the unique qualities of the this fall 2018 collection is BERTA’s approach to the raw materials used in the collection’s fabrications and taking that raw material to the maximal level of artisanship and beauty. This combination of vintage bridal styles with new exciting fabrications elevates this fall 2018 bridal outing into the realm now and next fashion, which is the trajectory of a lot of bridal collection this season.Understanding that the modern bridal consumer has access to fashion shows during real time and the lots of social media content, many bridal brands must keep their collections fresh and fashion forward for the very well-informed consumer. Without this constant re-evaluation of their design aesthetic as it appeals to the modern bridal consumer, many bridal brands will lose market traction very quickly. BERTA with this fall 2018 is primed and prepped to stay ahead of the bridal curve, so to speak.

Images courtesy of Coded PR

Standout looks in this fall 2018 collection include the point d’esprit tulle-handcrafted dress with payettes, feathers and appliques, fully embellished lace on netting dress plunging neckline with strap sleeves and open back, handcrafted lace dress with distinct flower appliques with thin strap sleeves and plunging neckline, and handcrafted embellished dress with waistline and bottom illusion bodice and skirt in geometric patterns.—William S. Gooch