If you are scouting for that new, innovative fashion designer that is not afraid to take risks, The Academy of the Arts has a slew of young creatives that fit the bill. Once a year the San Francisco–based fashion design school presents some of their most talented design MFA students during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS), usually occurring during the spring collections shows. Though it is a long-extended show, showcasing 5 or 6 garments from each selected MFA student, the show is definitely worth it.
Some years there is some great fashion, reflecting now or next, and some seasons not so much. This season the selected MFA students delivered!!
“The collections reflect the designers’ abilities to explore their individual spirit while mastering their craft. They’ve honored the essence of the industry and carry conscientious practices into textile design, three-dimensional design, tailoring, and construction techniques; at the same time, they’ve intelligently integrated the use of technology and sustainable concepts into their work,” explained Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion.
Some of the standouts for the spring 2019 season were Yoonsuk Lee inspired by the visual associations of the ‘walk of shame,’ the surrealist black and white photography of Vivian Maier and Irving Penn, and his grandfather’s custom-tailored suits; Snezana Anicic-Van Pelt inspired by observations of the ways our society has been shifting; different qualities (identifies) that can coexist as a whole; Mark Kazu Mekaru, Katy Fang Liu, and Yu Ling Chou collaboratively inspired by Miyako Ishiuchi’s photograph of a disintegrated garment destroyed during WWII, along with some elements of the Japanese art of origami, representations of disintegration, peeling, and falling away are incorporated in the garment shapes, textiles and knits; Zhihan Liu inspired by the movie “Shutter Island” with scenes evoking feelings of hurt, pain and darkness, austerity, and purity, and lastly Changsheng Yu inspired by compositions, contrasts and shapes created by natural light and shadows in San Francisco, the black and white photography of Andres Canal and Horst P. Horst, and long-exposure photos of dancers.
Coincidentally, many of The Academy of the Arts selected fashion design students are inspired by film, movement and photography. Hopefully, as these aspiring fashion design transition from their studies to the real world of fashion design they maintain their incredible skill and craftsmanship, never compromising their design acumen for market traction and viability.
Images courtesy of zimbio.com
The Academy of the Arts should continue to be commended for its brilliant assemblage curriculum that enables its student to mine the craft that sets them on a path to greatness. Which is particularly significant in an industry that continues to sacrifice the art of fashion for commercial success. The Academy of the Arts demonstrates the commercial viability and artistic brilliance can be compatible bedfellows!!—William S. Gooch
It’s true that classics never go out of style, and can still have relevance for modern audiences. For her spring 2019 collection, designer Cho Cho Cheng of CHOCHENG was inspired by late fifties and sixties movies, and television series, namely “The Best of Everything,” “Sex and the Single Girl,” and “That Girl,” in addition to classic movie icons including Elizabeth Taylor, Doris Day, Natalie Wood, Yvette Mimieux, Joan Collins, Sandra Dee, and others.
As a result of the classic Hollywood inspiration, classic style of the late 50s and 60s ruled supreme with this spring 2019 collection. Her most notable looks were these Jackie Kennedy inspired skirt suits, one of which came in a beautiful blush pink, reminiscent of the former First Lady’s iconic Chanel replica tweed suit. This collection wasn’t just about dressing the fashionable women who are a part of the ‘First Wives Club’, but also about those ladies who have to work for a living.
Long before we had “The Mary Tyler Moore Show,” there were the female prototypes found in “The Best of Everything,” three ambitious working girls of the 1950s who shared their secretarial work and home. These women all knew the power of good tailoring and would have quite enjoyed CHOCHENG’s statement-making shoulder pads, cinched waist bodices, and pencil skirts.
Other silhouettes displayed caped, curved and streamlined design aesthetics conjuring up hints of Elizabeth Taylor and Diana Ross projections seen in “Butterfield 8,” ”Lady Sings the Blues,” and “Mahogany.” Certain pieces seemed to float down the runway, like the mauve cotton knitted lace dress and a coral cotton ribbed and knitted dress. The color palette had a modern femininity that included pink, violet, coral, black, and white. There were moments for women to be understated with approachable black and white and to be a bit adventurous with bolder colors.
Sometimes, with Son Jung Wan it is hit or miss. Son Jung Wan has made a name for herself in the New York fashion market as a fashion designer that pushes the proverbial fashion envelope with leanings toward a Korean version of Japanese Harajuku. Lots of bold color, a mix of fabrics, a hodgepodge of silhouettes and lots of cultural influences; that is Song Jung Wan.
This “dramatic moves” collection was highlighted by glamour and exaggerated silhouettes. Son Jung Wan conjured up influences from the 1970s and 80s with also a glance backward to the 1940s and 60s.
The stylish sixties were given a modern update by designer Han Chong of Self-Portrait. The man known on Instagram as Mr. Self-Portrait, created a collection that was inspired by the spirit of the 1960s, but was for the modern, confident woman. Where many designers look to the more hippie style/bohemian mood of the 1960s when being inspired by the 60s, Chong created a wardrobe for a woman who was the modern urbanite who is sun-kissed and liberated at work.
This is a collection for women who want to make a statement and it is on trend with the maximalism we have been seeing for the past several years. No, it does not push the envelope of maximalism in the realm of brands like Gucci or Comme Des Garçons, but this was a collection for the woman who wants to be noticed for her fashion choices.
Marie Claudinette Jean is back!! Well, her fashion brand Fushá Designs is. After an absence of over ten years, Marie Claudinette Jean has reinvented Fushá from a brand that centered mostly on urban street wear to a brand that is all about glamorous luxury. In other word, bling without the bling; well, almost.
The Blonds runway show is one of the most sought-after and highly anticipated shows of New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS). Always entertaining, with just the right amount of theatrical dynamism and fashion next, The Blonds, for the most part delivers the goods. Unfortunately, their spring 2019 collection was another matter.
The Blonds spring 2019 collection, particularly as it was presented during NYFWS, seemed like a desperate attempt to maintain consumer and media interest in the brand. Inspired by Disney villains, Cruella de Vil, Ursula the Sea Witch, the Queen of Hearts, Maleficent, and others, The Blonds’ spring 2019 collection appeared to be more in the tradition of a Halloween fashion show—with a few celebs thrown in for good measure—than a legitimate fashion collection.
The late great Diana Vreeland once proclaimed that, “fashion is both now and next.” Almost fifty years later, Vreeland’s fashion prediction still applies.
Roland conjured up images of Bali’s exquisite bold colors and textures in a collection that was rich in vibrant colors and embroideries. These bold color tones and textures aptly represented the modern architecture and lush flora and fauna of Bali as could be seen the collection’s fabric manipulation, sleek angles and silhouettes.
If there was a bit of next in this spring 2010 outing, that future projection was made evident in Roland’s use of 3D floral jacquard. And though Roland’s use of 3D floral jacquard was admirable, the combination of 3D techniques paired with floral jacquard did not come across as next, this pairing landed more in the area of matronly charm.
That said; unlike Vreeland’s eternal fashion prediction, Roland’s spring 2019 fashion collection, though now, definitely was not infused with a lot of next. And here lies the rub!! Perhaps, due to a rather staid retail market that doesn’t take much risk, for spring 2019 Rolland has stayed true to her established design aesthetic without pushing that aesthetic in a youthful or innovative direction. Her diehard fans will be pleased, but with this collection Roland will probably not expand her base, especially that youthful consumer who is always looking for something a little more avant-garde or unexpected.
“There is no greater romance in life than an adventure with art,”, says Angelys Balek. There are many pathways to tranquility, and fashion designer Angelys Balek finds balance in glamour and confidence. Balek’s hybridization of nature, art and fashion helps women embrace individualism as they join the #ABWorld. And as Miami Swimweek 2018 has come to an end, Fashion Reverie felt an inclusion of Balek’s 2018 resort collection would be a delectable appetizer for our viewers.
Balek gives reference to the late 60s era with her design aesthetic and silhouettes in this resort 2018 collection. Though the bikini was first introduced in the 1946, Brigitte Bardot made the two-piece swimwear popular in the late 50s and early 60s. This two-piece innovation quickly became popular in 1960s youth culture, The Mod Movement. The bikini than became the number one trend by all popular Sports Illustrated Swimsuit editions. And for Balek, the bikini is a main focus of her 2018 resort collection.
Once again, closing out New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) with a bang was Grungy Gentleman, helmed by designer Jace Lipstein. This season, the show was held at the trendy Dream Downtown Hotel. As guests entered, they were treated to Gentleman Jack Rare Tennessee Whiskey cocktails and the latest tunes spun by DJ Juanyto oh Hot 97. The room buzzed electric as celebs, editors, and tastemakers all intermingled prior to the show.
Grungy Gentleman is not your typical NYFW: Men’s brand. They don’t try to recreate themselves every season with cacophony of prints and patterns. They don’t have complex cuts and configurations. They don’t select waifish models to wear their clothes. They understand who their clientele is—urban, athletic, real men with real bodies. The brand boasts that they “fuse contemporary culture and style, capturing the core of men’s interests in sports, music, entertainment, art and technology. Each piece from the collection looks to suit and inspire the man who is bold, intelligent, and passionate with fierce taste.”
Romeo Hunte continues to make a name for himself on the New York fashion landscape. For spring 2019, Romeo Hunte threw a lot of current trends and references to`80s street wear into the proverbial fashion melting pot. Some of the mix of trends worked, some, not so well.
Hunte ingeniously re-imagined neoprene from diving suits and camo prints on bombers as fashionable, urban spring outerwear. Hunte even included a few women’s looks in the collection. And though the women’s looks were an interesting addition, having so few women’s look—about three looks—rendered this injection of feminine silhouettes a distraction rather than a welcomed inclusive expansion.
