Bibhu Mohapatra is back!! After not showing during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) last season, many wondered if Bibhu Mohapatra would show for the fall 2019 season and if there were adjustment at his brand that caused Bibhu to opt out of showing for the spring 2019 season. (Fashion insiders were aware that were some shakeup at the brand with a change in Bibhu Mohapatra’s PR team.)
All the changes at the company seem to now be behind Bibhu Mohapatra; his fall 2019 collection was not only brilliant, but also very accessible. In past seasons, Bibhu Mohapatra’s fashion-as-art design aesthetic sometimes overshadowed the accessibility of his collection; appealing to a distinct consumer base that is not afraid to take fashion risk. Also, this collection will be very appealing to celebrities that are looking for that very special moment. (Bibhu Mohapatra counts Taraji Henson as one of his devotees.)
For the brand’s 10th anniversary season, Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by his sojourn to Mount Stewart in Northern Ireland. Experiencing the beautiful gardens that were designed by the Marchioness of Londonberry in the early 20th Century, Mohapatra was able to marry the intricate beauty of the gardens with the textured fabrics and embroideries inspired by the paintings of Peter Beard.
True to form and indicative of his design aesthetic, Mohapatra combined fabrics and silhouettes in ways that unique to his perspective. There were lots of asymmetrical silhouettes in this outing, as well as embellishments of fur, sequins and feathers. And though these embellishments conjure up images of luxury and red-carpet glamour, this collection was so much more than that.
With this collection Bibhu Mohapatra is bringing glamour back to NYFWS, something has been sorely missed from NYFWS for several seasons. And Mohapatra’s distillation of glamour and youthful charm is what fashion should always be, now and next. And this collection has now and next to spare.
The now is made evident in a collection that is heavy on retail viability and consumer accessibility. The next is conjured up in the way that Mohapatra combines fabrics, textures, and embellishment combined with his unique interpretation of interesting silhouettes.
Photos courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra
If there was one hitch in this collection; perhaps, it was the brand’s choice of models. Unfortunately, several of the models just didn’t bring the level of sophistication and regality that the collection demanded. Luckily for Bibhu, most of the garments sold themselves.Standout looks in this collection, and there were many, were Bibhu Mohapatra’s black cashmere overcoat with lace embroidered organza top and crepe pants, scissor-cut lace day/night dress with lace-up waist details, artic fox and broadtail vest over peacock silk gabardine flared dress, blush and lime double satin gown with draped petals, and fuchsia silk garbadine preciosa crystal embroidered gown with feather hem. Welcome back Bibhu!!
—William S. Gooch
For fall 2019 Dennis Basso was inspired by and dedicated his collection to that vibrant New York City fashion girl. Every woman, at one time, wanted to be her; wanted her style and charisma. And though the song that celebrated her came out in 1977, the New York City fashion girl is still an industry icon, setting a standard of fashion-forward sensibility and innovation.
Dennis Basso’s fall 2019 collection is perhaps his most youthful and vibrant collection without abandoning his design aesthetic. Known for his acumen and craft when it comes to manipulating fur pelts, Basso’s collection can easily sit more comfortably with a more seasoned consumer. For his spring/summer collections, Basso admirably attempted to redirect his design aesthetic for a younger consumer; however, Basso’s fall/winter collection often lack the youthful vim and vigor found in his spring collections. Many fashion pundits identify his use of fur as the dowdy culprit.
That said; Basso has not left his base in the dust. There was more than enough luxury stimulus in this collection to satisfy his tried and true customer. And if leopard print gets your heart racing, Basso had more than enough to satiate your palette.
Standout looks in this fall 2019 collection include Basso’s tweed trench coat with fox fur, crème shearling jacket with zip sleeve, mink and nylon leopard coat with hand-embellished mini dress, sienna python jacket, and cashmere coat with floral and python applique.
Self-Portrait designer Han Chong, otherwise known as Mr. Self-Portrait, has created a brand best known for its femininity, floral patterns, colors, frills, and ruffles. The brand, perhaps, is fashion’s ultimate feminine expression. While it didn’t quite tread the line of maximalism, the fall 2019 collection was definitely colorful and fun. However, for fall 2019, Chong scaled back the brand’s design aesthetic quite a bit and decided to do his take on minimalism.
This season, Chong worked on streamlining his silhouettes so that garments had a more classic projection. A tuxedo lapel collar jumpsuit in black suit happily married the world of the vintage with the modern tastes. A sequin cocktail dress was on trend, with sequins ruling the runways this season. That said; Chong didn’t completely throw out his old aesthetic, as he had to make sure he kept his longtime consumer base satisfied.
After almost a decade in fashion, Laquan Smith is hitting his stride. And his fall 2019 collection demonstrated that the path Laquan Smith has chosen for himself is the right path for his brand.
For this eponymous fall 2019 collection, Laquan Smith was inspired by Hilary (Karyn Parsons) from “The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” and what she would be wearing now if she were a fashion diva. Realize that this is Laquan Smith’s version of what a 2019 Hilary of “The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” would be wearing. (Hilary character might be wearing garments along the line of Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra or Cushnie.)
Laquan Smith found an ingenious way to make plaid and trench coats look sexy. With the trench coats there was no need for a sexy reveal. Smith’s trenches were tailored to an inch of the life of the garment, really highlighting a woman’s curves.
If there was one drawback to this collection, and there were a few questionable moments, it was Smith’s placing this collection solidly in the area of urban fashion. Lots of women want to be sexy and attention grabbing, but Smith’s hyper sexy collection may not appeal to women outside of urban or international fashion markets.
Diversity and inclusion have become keywords for many of the collections this season. The Fall 2019 season will exceed other seasons with respect to inclusion of models that represent ranges in size, racial and ethnic diversity, and gender fluidity.
As Hunte has proven in previous collections, outerwear is his collections’ strongest point. There was a significant amount or reworked denim jackets and coats, as well as shearling, leather and some nicely worked trench coats. Some of these jackets will do very well in the retail market. Unfortunately, in this collection an androgynous design aesthetic is not Hunte’s forte.
Glam Rock is back!! If you are old enough to remember the New York Dolls, Ziggy Stardust (early 70s David Bowie), the Glitter Band, Gary Glitter, or early Elton John, you know there was time where rockers had long hair, were lots of glittery stage makeup and wore shiny, sparkly tight clothes while they sometimes sang in a falsetto or screamed loudly about love, sex, and rock n’ roll.
Not a stranger to New York Fashion Week, this was Hakan Akkaya’s third outing at NYFW: The Shows (NYFS). And in this fall 2019 outing, Akkaya demonstrated that he has the ability to take a retro trend and elevate it a modern distillation of style with a fashion-forward sensibility.
There was lots of silver metallic and shiny black in this collection with touches of pink and other pastel colors through in to balance out the looks. There was also a range of black and white and bold-striped faux fur coats in the collection.
With Son Jung Wan you know that there is always going to be lots of combinations of fabrics and a wide color palette. Sometimes Son Jung Wan’s combination of fabrics and colors work, other times it is disjointed. Still, there is lots of imagination. It is almost as if the experimentation never stops and continues onto the runway in a product that is not finished. And sometimes that is good thing, other times it might look messy.
Though there was a boxiness to many of the silhouettes in the collection, the padded shoulders to conjure up images from the early 70s when many fashion designers were referencing the 1940s. The boxy shoulders were best in Son Jung Wan’s jumpsuits which were to die for, and those jumpsuits were the most successful looks in this outing.
For that fashionista that wants flirty, fun clothes with a bit of edge, Alice + Olivia has been a go-to brand for that customer for over a decade. As one of the most coveted shows during New York Fashion Week: The Shows, Alice + Olivia always draws a huge crowd and on occasion a few select celebrities show up for good measure.
For the past several seasons, Stacy Bendet has presented her collection in a presentation format, a format that works so much better for the brand than a runway show. Editors, stylists, industry professionals and attendees can get an up close and personal view of the collection.
Ethical fashion is obtaining a stronger presence in fashion. There was even a Vegan Fashion Week for the fall 2019 season at the same time as New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS).
Launched in 2008, NONIE’s creative director Nina Kharey has solidly placed her fashion brand as a part of Canada’s, and more specifically Vancouver’s, hierarchy of fashion-forward fashion brands. And with the brand’s debut Kharey is hoping to get more market traction in the US after much acclaim in Canada.
Like so many brands, Grungy Gentleman is tapping into collaborations. Grungy Gentleman’s creative director Jace Lipstein realizes that with multiple collaborations he is accomplishing a lot of task and expanding is customer base in one blow.
Grungy Gentleman has established itself as a men’s sportswear brand with deep roots with professional sports team. That said; this affiliation with sports teams continues with sports figures mixed into the runway show along with male models. “[Sports figures] Dave East and Styles P embody everything the Grungy brand wanted this show to be about– an ode to New York City– the grit, the grind, the inimitable style and presence of those who came up here, and the power of collaboration across different generations and categories,” said Ali Moon, talent booker for the show.
