Fashion News Alert: Donatella’s Biopic, David Beckham and H&M, and Bethann Hardison Makes Some Noise

Donatella_Versace_01Donatella Versace’s life following the death or her brother will be dramatized in a made-for-TV movie on the Lifetime Channel. House of Versace will star Gina Gershon as Donnatella, Enrico Colantomi as Versace, Colm Feore as the older brother Santo, and Raquel Welch as the siblings’ Aunt Lucia.

House of Versace follows Donatella’s battles with cocaine addiction to developing the House of Versace into the megabrand it is today. The biopic is based on Deborah Bull’s book House of Versace: The Untold Story of Genius, Murder, and Survival.  House of Versace airs on October 5.

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Bethann Hardison’s Beef

The lack of diversity on the runways of Milan, London, Paris, and New York City has been a much heated debate for years. Bethann Hardison, former model and agent, has decided to go beyond empty rhetoric by organizing a social media campaign during the upcoming Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week that will bring attention to the lack of diversity in the fashion industry.

According to The New York Times, representation of black models on the runway in February 2013 was down 8.1 percent from the previous season. 87.9 percent of garments worn on the runways of major fashion capitals, notably, New York, Milan, London, and Paris, were worn by white models.

“We have a president and a first lady who are black … You would think things have changed, and then you realize that they have not. In fact, things have gone backward,” said Iman in a recent New York Times article.

Though Hardison’s social media campaign is being kept under wraps, tweets and fashion rumblings indicate some brands, design houses and creative directors are already beginning to respond to the negative press. Fashion Reverie will keep you posted!!

Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

Beckham’s 2013 H&M Campaign

H&M’s love affair with David Beckham continues as the British footballer’s new fall 2013 campaign comes out in a few days. Behind-the-scene images from the campaign have already leaked out on Twitter, with Beckham modeling the latest items from the David Beckham Bodywear Collection.

“I love the heritage athletic style of the new pieces in my Bodywear collection at H&M. The vests, pajama pants and raglan sleeve tops are already like wardrobe favorites for me that I know I’ll wear all season long. It was great to shoot them in an old-fashioned East End changing room. It was like I had gone right back to my roots,” he said.

The campaign comes out on August 22 with goods purchasable on HM.com.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Galliano’s Moonlighting Job, Marc Jacobs’ Venture into Beauty, BlueStar Acquires Catherine Malandrino

Galliano_12It appears that John Galliano has been a clandestine designer-in-residence at Oscar de la Renta. De la Renta recently supported Galliano on the morning talk show CBS This Morning. But, it seems de la Renta’s support is far more than just talk, according to WWD.

“As we have said before, we are deeply impressed with John’s talent and would love to find a way to work with him in the future. To date, we have not found that way,” confirmed Oscar de la Renta CEO Alex Bolen in a recent statement.

And Galliano apparently is garnishing support from highly ranked industry professionals other than de la Renta. Anna Wintour and Conde Nast International’s chairman and chief, Jonathan Newhouse, have both thrown their weight and support behind Galliano.

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Catherine Malandrino Acquired

Bluestar Alliance has signed an agreement to acquire the American brand founded by Catherine Malandrino. Catherine Malandrino’s brand, founded in 1998, is also backed by Elie Tahari and Arthur Levine, who will become minority stakeholders, with Malandrino owning a small stake in the company.

Bluestar Alliance, which owns mid-ranged brands Kensie and Kooba, has been candid about its desire to own more upscale brands. With the acquisition of Catherine Malandrino, Bluestar Alliance is beginning its quest to make its stamp on the high-fashion ready-to-wear market.

Catherine Malandrino currently has three stores in the US with plans to open more nationwide and globally.

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Marc Jacobs’ Expansion

Marc Jacobs knows where the money is. And his foray into the beauty market is a testimony to his good business sense and the expansion of his brand empire.

Jacobs’ new beauty line will not only debut in Sephora but have its own New York home at 385 Bleeker Street. Jacobs will also house in the store his Prestige fragrances by Coty. Jacobs’s fragrance store will be his fifth brand incarnation on Bleeker Street. Hmm, five stores on Bleeker Street, luxury and real estate; that is so New York!!

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Ann Taylor’s Collaboration, Kate Makes List, and Estée Lauder Expands to Africa

estee-lauder-AfricaTapping into Sub-Saharan Africa’s middle class Estée, Lauder has plans to expand its presence in the region by promoting two of its most lucrative brands, Clinique and MAC. There appears to be a demand for luxury cosmetics by the region’s middle class. “”Our target consumer is the emerging middle class, the established middle class and that affluent African consumer who’s probably extremely well-traveled and very brand savvy,” says Sue Fox, Estee Lauder’s managing director of Sub-Saharan Africa.

Estée Lauder’s sojourn into Sub-Saharan Africa comes on the back of its MAC launch this past February in Nigeria. “There’s massive interest from the consumers there in international brands,” says Fox. “We’re very excited about the potential of MAC in Nigeria. That’s led us to pursue a strategy with MAC that will ensure that we’re able to bring the brand to consumers in other markets.”

Estée Lauder is targeting African cities and countries with the biggest growth potential. Those cities include, but are not limited to, Lagos, Abuja and Port Harcourt in Nigeria, as well as the capitals of Ghana, Kenya, Tanzania, Mozambique and Angola.

Image courtesy of fashionmag.com

Image courtesy of fashionmag.com

Kate Is Still Best Dressed

Vanity Fair has placed the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, on the best dressed list for the fourth time. This time out Middleton shares the list with Kerry Washington, Beyonce, Justin Timberlake, Rolling Stone’s Keith Richards, LeBron James, quarterback Tom Brady, Brooke Shields, Victoria Beckham, among others.

Vanity Fair admitted that Middleton’s inclusion on their best-dressed list this fourth time is a culmination of her style leading up to the birth of the royal couple’s first child.

Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

 

Ann  Steps it Up with Vince

Ann Taylor’s collaboration with Vince Camuto for a fall line of shoes may not be as obvious as it should be.  According to WWD, the new line of shoes will not carry Vince Camuto’s name.

The 30 to 40 pairs of shoes are an attempt to turn Ann Taylor into a “complete lifestyle brand for the modern woman,” with Ann Taylor overseeing production. Hmm, sounds a little bit like private labeling!!

At any rate, the fall line will include caged booties, kitten heels, leopard prints and ballet flats; something for every stylish shopper.  Now, the question is will Kate Hudson be impressed!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Fashion News Alert: Anna on Reality TV, De la Renta Supports Galliano, and Congolese Models Strut Catwalk in Spite of Civil Unrest

Anna_wintour_02Anna Wintour on reality television, no, not possible; think again. Condé Nast is producing the reality-based The Fashion Fund, which gives a behind-the-scenes look at the process by which the Council of Fashion Designers (CFDA) chooses the annual winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award.

Television viewers will witness studio visits, the New York Fashion Week presentations and all the anticipation and drama that accompany this prestigious competition. Winners of the CFDA award receive $300,000 in cash and a one-year mentorship with an industry icon. Past winners have included Proenza Schuler, rag and bone, Altuzarra, and many others.

With Anna Wintour being editor-in-chief of American Vogue, and a key councilmember of the CFDA, bets are on that a cameo appearance is in the works.

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Models Keep on Strutting

Civil unrest in the Democratic Republic of the Congo won’t keep models from strutting down the catwalk. Congo Fashion Week, organized by NYC‒based, Congolese fashion designer Gloria Mteyu, showcases 12 Congolese designers, as well as eight foreign designers, including well-known South African designer David Tlale.

“Because I myself am a designer, and since I have had the chance to go to other countries on several continents … I wanted to come home, do the same thing and organize a catwalk to showcase our talent, our Congolese style,” detailed Mteyu. “We have not seen many Congolese at other Fashion Weeks so here is the first chance to showcase Congolese designers who work well,” continues Mteyu.

Tickets prices range between $150 to packages of $300, leaving most local residents incapable of affording the ticket price. Most Congolese live on less than a dollar a day.

“It is shocking. No one has access, only the rich are targeted. There is no chance for everyone to experience this. Even the middle class can’t go,” says local resident Clarisse, who earns $200 a month. Congo Fashion Week takes place in Kinshasa, Congo.

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Oscar and Galliano

Last Friday on  morning talk show, CBS This Morning, Oscar de la Renta threw his support behind the much-maligned John Galliano, believing that fashion’s enfant terrible should be given a second chance. “John has had a lot of issues, health issues, abuse, but I like John. He’s a great guy and I was happy that I gave him that second chance and I hope that he will survive all of this,” stated de la Renta.

In early 2013 Galliano worked with de la Renta and was due to teach a master class on ‘aesthetics in fashion’ at Parson’s New School  of Design until public outrage and student protests forced school officials to cancel the master course.  Galliano in a June interview in Vanity Fair candidly spoke about his drug and alcohol abuse and his attempts to make amends over the last couple of years.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Fashion News Alert: D&G Shutters Stores, Versace Villa for Sale, and John Casablancas Transitions

Versace_03As of last Thursday Gianni Versace’s palatial Miami villa was put on the market and is expected to sell for more than $50 million. According to Lamar Fischer, the president of the Fischer Auction Company which is handling the sale, the property is expected to sell very quickly, maybe in 30 minutes.

“You never know for sure in these cases but you could say that the real estate value of the property is certainly above $50 million, so we expect the price to go higher than that,” says Fischer. The current owner of the villa had transformed the property into a boutique hotel.

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D&G’s Protest

In response to public outrage over their tax evasion conviction, Dolce and Gabbana closed their Milan stores for three days, starting on this past Friday. The words “Closed” were vividly placed on the store window of the D&G signature store in Milan.

“We are no longer willing to suffer undeservedly the accusations of the financial police and the income revenue authority, attacks from public ministers and the media pillory we have already been subjected to for years,” stated the design pair. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana were given a 20-month jail sentence for tax evasion on royalties (1.3 billion) after selling their brand to a Luxembourg-based holding company.

The 250-plus employees will continue to be paid while the nine Milan stores are closed. The iconic design team’s attorneys expect to appeal the decision and because the appeal process is lengthy and complicated, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are expected to spend no time in prison.

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Casablancas Dies

John Casablancas, founder of Elite Models, died Friday of cancer in Rio de Janeiro. Casablancas launched Elite Models in 1972 and helped launch the careers of Iman, Heidi Klum, Gisele Bündchen, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and many more.

Casablancas was instrumental in elevating models from just beautiful women on catwalks and in photo editorials to celebrity status. “[Casablancas] was largely responsible for glamorizing the business and turning models into idols, their egos expanding in direct proportion to their earnings potential,” said The New York Times in its obituary.

John Casablancas is survived by his wife Aline Wermelinger, a brother, Fernando and five children from two marriages: John Jr., Fernando Augusto, Nina, Cecile and Julian Casablancas. Casablancas was 70 years old.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Kanye’s Collaboration, Diane Kruger’s Love Affair with Chanel, Uniqlo Opens Stores in Bangladesh, and Christian Lacroix’s Return

 

Image courtesy of Reuters

Image courtesy of chanel.com

Diane Kruger’s love affair with Chanel extends beyond the red carpet as Karl Lagerfeld revealed that Kruger is the new face of Chanel’s Resynchronizing Collection, which includes the Le Jour de Chanel, La Nuit de Chanel and Le Weekend de Chanel creams. The German actress began her career as a fashion model and was chosen for Chanel’s Allure fragrance campaign in 1996 and the Paris-Biarritz bag advertising campaign, shot by Karl Lagerfeld in 2007.

Kruger is frequently on the red-carpet best dresses list and a favorite of celebrity photographers. “I admire personal style. I love someone being themselves. I want to look most like myself on the red carpet,” the actress revealed. Aptly, said, and Kruger’s personal has obviously rubbed off on one of the most influential fashion icons, Karl Lagerfeld!!

Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

Image courtesy of huffingtonpost.com

Kanye Gets Down with A.P.C.

Last month W Magazine put a little bug in our ears about Kanye West’s “new men’s capsule collection of jeans, T-shirts, and hoodies for a hip French brand, to be unveiled in July.” Well, all the rumors have  confirmed that Kanye has teamed up French hipster brand, A.P.C.

The Jean Touitou‒helmed brand revealed the collaboration on Instagram and their website with the no frills announcement, “A.P.C. KANYE CAPSULE COLLECTION, JULY 14. #apc #kanyewest,” with a pair of jeans labeled A.P.C. Kanye.  New baby and new collaboration, Kanye what’s next!!

 

Image courtesy of Reuters

Image courtesy of Reuters

Uniqlo Courts the Middle Class

Aimed at Bangladesh’s small but growing middle class, Uniqlo has opened two stores in Dhaka, Bangladesh. The Japanese retailer, Fast Retailing Co., has teamed up with Bangladesh’s Grameen Bank, founded by Nobel laureate Mohammad Yunus, to tap into Bangladesh’s 30 million middle-income earners.

The Uniqlo stores will concentrate mostly on menswear in that Bangladeshi women prefer to wear traditional Muslim clothes. “We want to deliver innovative designs and fashion to the middle class customers here and have plans to open more stores across several cities that will create more jobs,” said Yukihiro Nitta, chief executive officer of the joint venture. Uniqlo plans to invest 4.6 million in Bangladesh.

Image courtesy of style.com

Image courtesy of style.com

Lacroix and Schiaparelli

As the Paris Couture shows wrapped up on last Thursday, one of the biggest returns to the Paris Couture stage was Christian Lacroix. In a tribute to fashion icon Elsa Schiaparelli, Lacroix’s 18-piece “Homage to Elsa” referenced and reinterpreted Schiaparelli’s love affair with circuses, fairgrounds, and military uniforms.

Since losing his own design house in 2009, Lacroix has been all but absent from the fashion industry. When asked if his current couture outing for Schiaparelli suggest a permanent return, Lacroix emphatically replied, “No. What has always excited me about fashion is theatre costumes. My childhood dream—I am achieving it now.”

—William S. Gooch


Fashion News Alert: Converse’s Big New Digs, Jourdan Dunn’ Boobs, and Sienna and Tom’s Cozy Burberry Ad

Jourdan_Dunn_03The more things change, the more they stay the same!! Just as it seemed that the fashion industry was welcoming more diversity in race, silhouettes and sizes on the runway, a big, iconic fashion house decides to dismiss one of the hottest supermodels of color for her breast size. Or so, British supermodel Jourdan Dunn revealed in one of her tweets from couture week currently underway in Paris.

In one of the biggest couture shows of the season, Joudan Dunn tweeted that she was passed over for the Dior show because her breasts were too big. ”Ahahahahahaha I just for cancelled from Dior because of my boobs!,”  explained Dunn.

Now, not even by industry standards is Dunn considered top heavy. And wagging fashion tongues are wondering if Dunn’s ‘supposed big boobs’ is just an excuse to minimize models of color on Dior’s runway. Since Galliano’s departure, Dior’s runways have been strangely absent of diversity.

Dunn followed up her Dior cancellation tweet with the following tweet. “I’m normally told I’m cancelled because I’m ‘coloured’ so being cancelled because off my boobs is a minor.”

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Converse Goes Big

Go big or go home. And it appears that iconic sneaker and sportswear brand, Converse took this saying to heart, literally, by opening up its biggest store in San Francisco this past weekend. The 8,200 square foot store, located on Market Street in the heart of the Union Square Shopping District will offer the largest assortment of Converse footwear, apparel and accessories globally, along with Converse Customization, a unique and personalization process for designing one-of-a-kind Converse sneakers and clothing.

“Opening a retail store in San Francisco is a perfect fit for Converse, a city with a creative spirit similar to ours. We’re thrilled to offer local consumers an outlet to unleash their creativity and participate in our brand through our in-store customization and various music and art programs supported by the brand,” said Jonathan Tappan, General Merchandise Manager, Direct to Consumer for Converse.

The store’s design pays tribute to the building’s original structure as seen through authentic and raw industrial elements including original concrete and tile throughout. The store’s operating hours will be Monday through Saturday, 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m., and Sunday, 11:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

Image courtesy of Burberry

Image courtesy of Burberry

Burberry’s Love Duet

As fashion brands continue to use celebrities to promote their fall/winter 2013 campaigns, Burberry has discovered that there may be a special type of magic in having a celebrity couple endorse their fall collection. British cinema royalty Sienna Miller and her fiancée actor Tom Sturridge heat up Burberry’s fall/winter 2013 ad with steamy affection.

Creative Director Christopher Bailey told theUK Telegraph, “This was a shoot full of love and laughter.” Miller and Sturridge’s cooing and cuddling was photographed by Mario Testino and accompanied by Tom Odell’s new British single, “Hold Me.”

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

 

Breaking Fashion News: Global Protests Target Bangladesh Factory Violations

Spanish trade union activists with 'blood' on their hands stand outside a Mango store in protest.   (Lluis Gene / Getty)

Spanish trade union activists with ‘blood’ on their hands stand outside a Mango store in protest. (Lluis Gene / Getty)

Global concerns and protest continue as concerned groups unite this Saturday to protest against multinational retailers that have yet to support improving labor conditions and safety protections in Bangladesh’s booming garment sector. Activists will stage protest around the world in major cities to draw attention and raise consumer awareness on safety violations and labor abuses in Bangladesh factories. These protests will coincide with U.S. campaigns against the working conditions of Wal-Mart workers in stores and warehouses.   Activists groups will stage a variety of protests and demonstrations  from Osaka, Japan to New York City.

Image courtesy of Associated Press

Image courtesy of Associated Press

Since the Rana Plaza factory collapse in April that took the lives of 1,100 workers, Bangladesh factories, as well as multinational brands have come under international scrutiny. According to the Death Trap campaign, about 50 international retailers have signed on to a proposed safety agreement that establishes a “binding contract between the brands and worker representatives that make these commitments enforceable —so the brands have to follow through, even if it means increased costs or longer turnaround times on orders.”

International retailers H&M, Esprit, and many other European retailers have signed on to the proposed safety agreement that would introduce a worker-led system of safety oversight. The big holdouts are American retail giants, Wal-Mart and The Gap.

—Staff

Fashion News Alert: Lauren Hutton’s New Ad, Vivienne Westwood’s Protest, and Armani’s Men Bags

vivienne_westwood_menswear_2014Iconic British designer Vivienne Westwood used her men’s spring/summer 2014 show as an opportunity to reflect her political views. Male models and some staff donned tee shirts supporting U.S. Army private Bradley Manning, who is accused of releasing hundreds of thousands of classified files, videos and other data to the WikiLeaks anti-secrecy website. No stranger to controversy, Westwood has always been in the forefront of using fashion to express political point of view and her own personal stance on environmental issues.

Westwood also expressed in a recent interview that she would be opting out of opening up additional stores in China. “I want to backtrack and control it … “I don’t want to expand in China anymore at the moment.”

In step with her environmental stance, for this spring/summer 2014 menswear outing, Westwood incorporated sustainable fabrics from South American countries, cutting down on the carbon footprint. “We do a lot of T-shirts and at least I’ve managed to get the jersey that we use for the T-shirts, which comes from Peru mostly. It’s organic and it’s not harmful,” continues Westwood.

Emporio Armani, Menswear, Spring Summer, 2014, Milan

Armani Incorporates Bags and Smiles

Tapping in to the growing men’s accessory boom, Giorgio Armani for his spring/summer 2014 menswear runway show, gave more attention and focus to his men’s accessories than in previous seasons. Instead of the melancholy, nonchalant saunter identified with most male catwalks, this season Armani’s male models smiled, grinned and looked sunny while carrying small male handbags.

According to Claudia D’Arpizio of the management consultancy firm, Bain, in 2012 men’s accessories made up 41% of the luxury goods market, and is growing faster than the women’s segment.  “Men are becoming much more similar to women in the way they approach these fashion goods … Now men —in particular the younger generation —are much more fashion aware and the real target for many of the luxury brands,” contends D’Arpizio.

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Hutton Still Has It

It’s not over til it’s over, and it aint for Lauren Hutton. At 69 years of age, legendary model/actress Lauren Hutton has booked an ad campaign with Lucky Brands. Hutton looks fit and fabulous in skinny jeans while posing alone and with seven other models in Lucky Brands fall 2013 denim campaign.

According to WWD, Hutton, the consummate professional during the shoot, “brought her own makeup and took care of every last brush stroke herself.”  You go, Lauren Hutton!!

 

—William S. Gooch

D&G Convicted, New York State’s New Protections for Child Models, and Jason Wu’s Side Gig

Dolce_GabbanaWill Dolce and Gabbana be singing caged bird tunes? If the recent conviction by a Milanese court for tax evasion holds up, they will.

On Wednesday designers Domenico Dolce and Steffano Gabbana were found guilty of failing to declare 1.3 billion in income to Italian authorities. Domenico and Steffano were both sentenced to 20 months in jail. Though both designers have denied the charges, prosecutors contend that the design team evaded taxes on earned income through a Luxembourg‒based company.

When brought up on charges of fraud two years ago, this highly publicized case was thrown out of court. Still, Italy’s high court stated the Dolce and Gabbana could be charged with evasion of taxes. Hmm, I guess the high court was right!!

Jason Wu_headshot

Jason Wu’s New Stream of Income

If running his own eponymous fashion brand was not enough, Jason Wu has now taken on the role of creative director for Hugo Boss’ womenswear line. In his role of creative director, Wu will expand Boss’ womenswear offerings. Never having hired a matinee designer for the brand, Wu’s hire is a first for Hugo Boss.

“[Wu] will assume responsibility and creative direction for all product and image related aspects of the principal womenswear Ready-to-Wear and Accessory line in the HUGO BOSS Group. In his role as Artistic Director, Jason Wu will oversee his team at the HUGO BOSS headquarters in Metzingen, Germany, and also open a design studio in New York” details a Boss representative to nymag.com.

Wu will debut his collection for the brand for pre-Fall 2014 and also present for Fall 2014 during New York Fashion Week.

Sara Ziff image courtesy of modelalliance.com

Sara Ziff image courtesy of modelalliance.com

Child Model Developments

Child models now have the same protections afforded child actors, dancers, elite athletes, and musicians, well, at least in New York State they do. On June 12 the State Senate and Assembly unanimously approved legislation that gives models under the eighteen the rights they deserve in New York state.

Under this new labor law, proposed by  Senate Co-Leader Jeff Klein and State Senate Labor Committee Chairwoman Diane Savino, models under the age of 18 must now have chaperones and tutors on the set,  and provisions for financial mandatory trusts. These new regulations will be overseen by the Department of Labor, which has more resources to enforce compliance than the Department of Education, which formally oversaw regulations pertaining to employment and education for child models.

Model Alliance, a NYC‒based model advocacy group, has been in the forefront of this historic legislation. Founded by supermodel Sara Ziff, Model Alliance seeks to improve working conditions for models in the American fashion market.

—William S. Gooch

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