Fashion News Alert: DVF Expects Growth with New CEO, Steve Madden’s Fall 2024 Campaign, and Victoria Beckham Comes to Netflix

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New York City has been the inspiration for many fashion campaigns. This eternal inspiration is used in Steve Madden’s fall 2024 campaign. But instead of New York City architecture or landscape as a reference point, Steve Madden employs wacky New York City personalities and characters as the stars of his fall 2024 campaign.

Richie Rich, Lady Bunny—NYC nightlife mavens—Lynn Yaeger, Mickey Boardman—NYC fashion personalities—The Green Lady, Seth Phillips, and George Papoutsis, the Sign Man, are a part of Steve Madden’s fall 1014 campaign. This diverse and eclectic group of New York City characters reflect the brand’s eclectic cornucopia of retro sneakers, chunky boots, preppy loafers, and more. 

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DVF resets

Diane von Furstenberg (DVF) is looking to bring the management of her brand in-house. Since the end of 2020, Glamel, DVF’s Chinese distributor, has managed its global business. Glamel will continue to manage DVF’s day-to-day business, distributing to Greater China. That said, DVF’s CEO Graziano di Boni is bringing operations in-house, and this shift will be complete by the end of 2024.

“When I joined DVF 10 months ago, I was asked to develop a plan for the legacy of the brand,” Di Boni said, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “Immersing myself into the history of DVF, I found not only the iconic wrap dress that continues to sell after 50 years, but also a vast archive of prints and fabrics that revealed a unique and strong design vocabulary.” 

“Furthermore, I was amazed by the richness and breadth of content material and by the authentic personal relationship multi-generational women have with DVF. All of this is very relevant for today’s digital-first landscape of retail and social media. Regaining control of the design and narrative of our brand was the first necessary step to reimagining our business model for the future.”

Diane von Furstenberg added that “Graziano has spent considerable time this year working with the product and focusing on building the brand strategy. To execute on this strategy, it was necessary that our operations return in-house. I am very excited to support Graziano’s leadership redesigning the company as he surrounds himself with talent that understands the zeitgeist of today and respects and appreciates the richness of the assets of the past.”

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Spicy Victoria

Do all fashion designers eventually produce a reality television show or documentary? Well, not all; however, Victoria Beckham has jumped into the fray with a new Netflix documentary series, “Spice up your life!,” about the Beckham family and Victoria Beckham’s journey to build her fashion empire. (Just a note, “Spice up your life” was the title of a Spice Girls song.)

This Netflix documentary series follows Victoria Beckham throughout her day as she runs her business, manages her family life, and reflects on her fashion journey. There will also be cameos from fashion industry professionals, family, and friends.  “Spice up your life!” is produced by Nicola Howson and Julia Nottingham.

The documentary series is still in production and should air later in 2024.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Iconic Supermodels Star in Donna Karan’s Fall 2024 Campaign, SJP Shutters Footwear Collection, and John Varvatos Returns to NYFW

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If you miss legendary supermodels Alek Wek, Amber Valletta, Karen Elson, and Christy Turlington Burns you need to look no further than Donna Karan’s new fall 2024 campaign. Imaan Hammam, Eva Herzigova, Edie Campbell, and Liu Wen round out the supermodels who star in Karan’s fall 2024 campaign.

Photographed by Mikael Jansson, Karan’s ‘Reflections of Women’ fall 2024 fall campaign is inspired by many facets of the modern woman. Styled by Jessica Diehl this fall 2024 campaign features day-to-night garments of an urban landscape which includes, but is not limited to, cinched and knit sweaters, skirts, and dresses, many gleaming with tonal gold metal plating. Similar black and gold hues can be seen across skirts, tops, and outerwear, accented with gold clasps and brushed metallic patterns. Chain-accented belts, smooth leather jackets, and versatile gold jewelry complete the range with an understated edge.

The brand hopes that this multi-generational approach to fashion will give the brand more market traction, making it a go-to brand for that sophisticated urban dweller. In recent years, Donna Karan has lost much of the glamour and prestige the brand had acquired in the 1980s and 90s.

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Welcome back, John

For those who love men’s fashion, your spirits are about get a fashion pick me up.  John Varvatos is returning to the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) calendar for the spring 2025 season.

After several seasons off the calendar, six years to be exact, Varvatos will present his ‘Kiln & Craft’ men’s wear collection on September 6 at NYFW. Known for his men’s wear collections that give a nod to 1960s rock n’ roll fashion and style—tight slacks, moto jackets, fitted suits, and biker boots, Varvatos’ return to NYFW is long awaited.

With a male celebrity base that includes John Legend, Chris Hemsworth, Machine Gun Kelly, 50 Cent, Brad Pitt, Dwayne Johnson, and others, for a couple of decades John Varvatos was one of the go-to men’s wear designers consistently presenting at NYFW. For the past few years, Varvatos, like many men’s wear designers, business has not been good. Owe this downturn to the COVID-19 pandemic and remote work, as well as some other factors. Additionally, American men’s wear designers have experienced a significant shift in their market and consumer demographic.

Still, they soldier on, and the New York fashion market is thrilled that Varvatos is returning to NYFW. The Gods be praised!!

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SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker bites the dust

One of the things we loved about Sarah Jessica Parker in “Sex in the City” was her huge collection of Chrisitan Louboutin, Manolo Blahniks, and Jimmy Choo shoes. On the literal heels of Parker giving more traction to Christian Louboutin, Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik shoes, ten years ago Parker founded her own footwear line SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker.

Parker created SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker with the late George Malkemus. The footwear brand focused on classic styles and had have several store locations across New York City.

Well, the era of SJP by Sarha Jessica Parker is over. “After 10 colorful years, SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker has made the difficult decision to close its doors this fall,” said the statement from the brand, as reported in footwearnews.com. “The SJP Collection team expresses enormous gratitude to all of their loyal customers and supporters, as well as all those they’ve worked alongside.”

With a ten-year run, SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker can celebrate staying the course longer than most celebrity brands. Customers can still purchase SJP by Sarah Jessica Parker online; however, stores located in New York City will close on August 25.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Punky Gigi Hadid, David Koma’s New Gig, and Goodbye Fred Segal

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Supermodel Gigi Hadid has gone punk!! That’s right, the supermodel that is the essence of American sportswear has morphed her style to reflect a punk-rock aesthetic. Why this dramatic shift?

Marc Jacob’s new campaign for Heaven in collaboration with designer Dilara Findikoglu which stars Gigi could be the reason. Photographed by Alana O’Herlihy, Hadid dons Jacobs and Findikoglu’s bikinis, shorts, tee shirts, miniskirts, minidresses, and lace-up pants. The collaboration is accented with pins, buckles, and studs that will appeal to fashion’s punk set.

This Jacob/Findikoglu collaboration was inspired by Avril Lavigne, Bikini Kill, and Girlschool. Marc Jacobs’ Heaven brand is a subversive fashion brand that taps into Generation Z’s obsession with 90’s grunge, teenage daydreams, and polysexual motivations. Discover the collection now on MarcJacobs.com.

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A new creative director at Blumarine

David Koma has a new job as the new creative director of Blumarine. After the quick departure of Walter Chiapponi, who only served in the post for four months and creating one collection for the Italian, Koma was tapped for the prestigious Italian womenswear brand.

“David Koma’s aesthetic attracted me right from the start. I am sure that David will be able to interpret Blumarine’s codes to perfection, thanks to his vision and stylistic sensibility, characterized by an overwhelming femininity,” said Marco Marchi in a press release, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

“Blumarine embodies a unique blend of sensuality, timeless glamour and elegance that I have always admired, and it is an honor to be able to write the next chapter in the brand’s illustrious history,” said David Koma. “The label’s feminine aesthetic deeply resonates with me, making this journey feel incredibly authentic,” he added.

Originally from Tbilisi, Georgia, David Koma studied fine arts in Saint Petersburg, Russia, later moving to study fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London. He was formerly the creative director of MUGLER from 2014 to 2017 and currently has his own eponymous fashion brand.

Blumarine was acquired by holding company Exelite, formerly Eccellenze Italiane, in 2019. Koma will create his first collection from Blumarine for pre-Fall 2025.

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So long, Fred

Jeff Lotman, who acquired Fred Segal stores and e-commerce sites in 2018, has announced the closure of all Fred Segal stores and e-shop. The megastore’s founder and namesake Fred Segal passed away three years ago. The COVID-19 pandemic and a drop in sales has forced the closing of all the Fred Segal Stores.

Founded in 1962 by Fred Segal as a mostly slacks store, originally called Pants America, Fred Segal expanded his original store on Santo Monica Boulevard to Melrose Avenue four years later with a name change to Fred Segal. The Melrose Avenue location became an iconic store and is featured in several movies and television series including “Clueless” and “90201 Melrose.”

When Lotman acquired the Fred Segal Stores in 2018, he hoped to expand the stores to Europe. Fred Segal Home Furnishings is still open in Culver City, California. The Segal family still owns the trademark name, and they hope to open new stores in the future.

William S. Gooch

 

 

Fashion News Alert: Galliano to Leave Margiela, Bella Hadid Controversy, and Vogue’s Olympic Party

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The 2024 Summer Olympics are less than two weeks away, and the fashion industry has joined the ranks of those celebrating this once every four-year hallowed sporting event. The 2024 Summer Olympics takes place in Paris from July 25 to August 11.

Before the opening ceremony on July 25, Vogue is organizing a big party at Fondation Louis Vuitton. Attendees includes a host of celebrities, fashion luminaries, pop stars, well-known athletes, and LVMH’s management team. Some of the luminaries attending this event include Anna Wintour, Serena Williams, Pharrell Williams, Bernard Arnault, Charlize Theron, Rosalia, Omar Sy, and Brian Roberts, CEO of American media conglomerate Comcast NBCUniversal.

“I’m honored to be co-hosting this very special event with Anna Wintour, Mr. Arnault and Brian Roberts,” said Pharrell Williams in a statement, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “The Olympic Games are a celebration of diversity, humanity and creativity, everything that brings us together as human beings. This great event is a humbling reminder that what brings us together is stronger than what divides us,” he continued.

The event will include an Olympic-themed theme park, featuring interactive installations and games of all kinds inspired by sport, such as table tennis, table football, archery and basketball, devised by Pharrell Williams. Elegant cuisine will be provided by Michelin-starred chef Jean Imbert.

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Bella bye bye

The controversy around supermodel Bella Hadid and Adidas continues. Hadid is the face of Adidas’ Olympic campaign that reimagines the brand’s iconic 1972 running shoe designed for the 1972 Olympics.

Israel has opposed Bella Hadid as the face of this new Adidas campaign because Bella’s father is Palestinian and has been accused of anti-Semitism. Additionally, this new Adidas campaign celebrates the 1972 Olympics, where Palestinian guerillas attacked and killed 11 Israeli athletes at the Olympic village.

“We are aware that links have been made to tragic historical events—however unintentional—and we apologize for any upset or distress this may have caused,” said Adidas in a statement. “It is for this reason that we are revising the campaign. We believe in sport as a unifying force around the world and will continue our efforts to promote diversity and equality in everything we do.”

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Another move for John Galliano

Well, it may almost be over. John Galliano is leaving Maison Martin Margiela. Galliano has been at Margiela for 10 years and Galliano has not renewed his contract, though Margiela which is owned by OTB owner Renzo Rosso has requested Galliano to renew his contract for a few more years.

It has been rumored for several months on Instagram and several social media platforms that Galliano would be leaving Margiela. A spokesperson for OTB stated, “As you know—and it is normal in our industry – there are always a lot of rumors when creative talents are concerned. We never comment on them. All we can say is that relations between John Galliano, Maison Margiela and our group chairman Renzo Rosso, are very good.”

There is much speculation among fashion insiders to where Galliano will next hang his hat, so to speak. There are rumors that Galliano could become creative director at Fendi or Chanel, or even to return to his old stomping ground at Dior.

While at Maison Martin Margiela, Galliano built an impressive body of work with revenue rising 12% in 2023 1o 1.6 billion euros for holding company OTB. Annual sales at Margiela are believed to be above 400 million euros in 2023.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: The First Lady’s Magazine Cover, Kate Spade and Heinz Ketchup, and Saks Close to Acquiring Neiman Marcus

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You would have to be living under a rock or in alternate universe if you haven’t been witnessing the media’s commentary on President Joe Biden’s age and assumed decrepit physical state based on his disastrous debate with Donald Trump. With all the brouhaha around Biden’s presidential viability, you would think that is the only news coming out of the White House.

Wrong!! Another White House narrative that is just under the radar is the First Lady Jill Biden August Vogue cover. And this issue comes out just in time for the Democratic Convention in August.

For the August Vogue cover, Jill Biden dons a white Ralph Lauren Collection dress and Irene Neuwirth earrings. Jill Biden is photographed by Norma Jean Roy and interviewed for the August issue by Maya Singer. In the interview with Singer, Jill Biden discusses her husband’s 2024 presidential campaign and her support of women’s initiatives.

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Red rules

As you probably know by now, collaborations are a huge deal in the fashion industry. Fashion designers collaborate with everything and everyone from graphic artists, pop stars and celebrities to video game designers.

Perhaps the most unusual fashion collaboration is the recent collaboration between Kate Spade and Heinz. This collaboration combines the Heinz brand’s iconic red and Spade’s colorful, vibrant style based on the boldness of New York City.

“At Kate Spade New York, we believe in exploring the journey of self-expression through style in fun, unexpected ways,” said Jennifer Lyu, SVP and head of design at Kate Spade New York, as reported in fashionnetwork.com

“It’s the thoughtful details that bring this collection with Heinz to life–from the embellishments on the tee and the way our 3D ketchup bag looks just like that classic red and white packet. The playful designs are perfect for all of summer’s special moments, capturing the spirit of the season. I’m excited for customers across generations to experience a little piece of the magic we created with Heinz.”

This collaborative collection will contain totes, pouches, small leather goods, ready to wear tees, footwear, keychains, phone cases, and more. This limited collection will have price points that range from $45 to $398 and will be launched across global markets in China, Europe, Japan, North America, and Southeast Asia.

“Kate Spade New York shares many values with Heinz–from creating products of the highest quality that are expertly crafted by masters and leave no detail untouched, to exhibiting true devotion to our fans. In return, both brands have incredibly loyal fanbases that transcend generations. At Heinz, we love to celebrate the unique and unconventional ways our fans show their love for us, and this collection is the perfect opportunity to do so,” explained Megan Lang, head of global Heinz brand communications and creativity.

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Two are better than one

There is a deal afoot that could merge two of the largest retail stores in the US. Saks Fifth Avenue is close to acquiring Neiman Marcus Group for 2.65 billion dollars. An unnamed entity that is close to the deal has revealed that Amazon.com Inc. and Salesforce Inc. will help facilitate the deal by Saks owner Hudson’s Bay Co.

This deal will include 39 Saks Fifth Avenue stores and 36 stores of the Dallas-based Neiman Marcus, as well as two Bergdorf Goodman stores based in New York City and Saks and Neiman Marcus outlets. The merger of these two megastores will cut costs and boost profits. This deal is the result of negotiations and talks that have been going on between Saks and Neiman Marcus since 2020.

The involvement of Amazon “adds a bit of spice to an otherwise predictable deal,” GlobalData analyst Neil Saunders wrote in a research note. Its stake would make sense, he said, “as it has ambitions to play more heavily in the luxury space and this would give it a toehold, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.”

“The department-store model has been failing because the whole business was designed for a completely different retail environment than what we have now,” Morningstar analyst David Swartz said, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “Every part of department stores has been challenged by competition.”

Saks Fifth Avenue has more stores on the East Coast with Neiman Marcus stores expanding across the Midwest and western parts of the US. This merger will give the partners in this deal a combined proliferation across the entire US.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Naomi Campbell Honored, Rihanna Has a New Gig, and Team USA 2024 Olympic Uniforms Revealed

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Naomi Campbell’s status as a fashion icon has reached a new height. Campbell now has her first fashion exhibition, making her the first fashion model to have an exhibition at a renowned fashion museum devoted to a fashion model.

London’s Victoria and Albert Museum will host the exhibit “Naomi: In Fashion.” The exhibit opens on Saturday, June 22 and will feature a literal walk through of Campbell’s legendary career from the start of her career at aged 15, walking in Patrick Kelly’s fashion shows, to her iconic career as one of Karl Lagerfeld’s muses, to the present day. The exhibit will feature video, numerous glamorous ensembles, a photographic display curated by Edward Enninful, as well as a recreation of her dressing room.

“There’s been so many exhibitions about fashion designers and fashion photographers, but the model is often left out of the story,” Sonnet Stanfill, senior curator of fashion at the V&A, told Reuters. “And Naomi Campbell’s remarkable 40-year career is really … proving that she’s an exemplar in the field, because not only is she working with the best designers and photographers, magazines in the industry, but also she uses her platform to spotlight the careers of emerging creatives as well.”

Campbell, 54, was the first black model to appear on the covers of French Vogue and Time magazine and was also the first Black model on the cover of American Vogue‘s key September issue. “Naomi: In Fashion,” runs at the Victoria and Albert Museum until April 6, 2025.

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Rihanna’s new job

Rihanna has a new job. The global pop icon was recently named the brand ambassador for Parfums Christian Dior’s J’Adore.

“Being the new face of J’Adore is both an honor and a mission. This scent, that I have known and loved for so long, means so much to women. I am especially looking forward to joining this adventure and contributing to it through my world, my story, my roots, as well as my creativity and my own femininity,” Rihanna explained, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

“We are incredibly proud to welcome Rihanna into the Dior family. Her golden dream promises to be unique, reflecting a fragrance that is present for women, and retains its radiance. The unusual talent, audacity, and captivating beauty of this absolute star are the ideal embodiment of dazzling, powerful Dior femininity that transcends generations. Christian Dior would most definitely have adored her,” detailed Véronique Courtois, CEO Parfums Christian Dior.

J’Adore “is the perfume of a powerful, liberated, and independent woman, which resonates with Rihanna’s personal story, one she has made her own, wearing it as an emblem of boldness and seduction,” Parfums Christian Dior, a division of French luxury conglomerate LVMH, added, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. J’Adore was developed in 1999 by master perfumer Calice Becker and contains notes of blood orange and neroli, with tear-drop bottle designed by Herve Van der Straeten.

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Ralph Lauren makes Olympians stylish

The 2024 Paris Olympics are a little over a month away. And as we look forward to all the great sporting events, at Fashion Reverie we also pay close attention to the Opening Ceremony outfits for all participating nations.

Traditionally, the US’ Olympic team uniforms are always designed by Ralph Lauren and this year is no exception. This is the ninth outing for Ralph Lauren dressing the US Olympic team.

“Ralph Lauren is profoundly honored to define the look of the American delegation as they represent our country in one of the world’s most celebrated and storied events,” said David Lauren, chief branding and innovation officer, Ralph Lauren Corporation.

“For nearly 60 years, Ralph Lauren has been a pioneer at the intersection of style and sport—the vibrancy, passion and self-expression in sport has been a central touchpoint of inspiration for our brand since the very beginning of the iconic Polo brand in 1967. This summer, Paris is the backdrop where fashion and sport will collide on the world’s stage with a global audience and that is an incredibly exciting proposition.”

The Opening Ceremony uniforms for the US team will feature a single-breasted wool blazer with red and white tipping, a striped oxford shirt, and a tapered jean paired with classic suede buck shoes. For the Closing Ceremony, athletes have a sporty moto-style jacket with white denim and a Polo shirt from the brand’s custom Create Your Own program.

The Paris 2024 Summer Olympics Opening Ceremonies take place on July 26.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Virginie Viard to Leave Chanel, Michael Kor’s Father’s Day Campaign,and Law Roach’s First Book

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It has been officially confirmed that Virginie Viard is leaving Chanel. Viard took over the role of creative director of the iconic French fashion house after the death of Karl Lagerfeld.

“Chanel confirms the departure of Virginie Viard after a rich collaboration of five years as Artistic Director of Fashion collections, during which she was able to renew the codes of the House while respecting the creative heritage of Chanel, and almost thirty years within the House,” Chanel said in a terse statement. “Chanel would like to thank Virginie Viard for her remarkable contribution to Chanel’s fashion, creativity and vitality. A new chapter is opening for Chanel Mode. We are confident in the teams’ ability to ensure the continuity of the collections during this period of transition,” the house continued.

After the announcement of Viard’s departure there has been much speculation about who will replace Viard. “Chanel is a legendary house rich with codes and an incredible archive,” said Bryanboy on Twitter. “Why roll the dice and gamble it all with something radical? Either way it’s all very exciting. Let the hunger games begin!”

There has been a plethora of names thrown into the pool of replacements for Viard. Those names include Hedi Slimane, Sara Burton, Jeremy Scott, and Pierpaolo Piccioli. That said, Viard last collection for Chanel will be winter 2025 collection on June 25 at the Opera Garnier as a part of Paris Couture Fashion Week.

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Law Roach is now an author

Law Roach can add a new title to his many titles. In addition to Roach being a celebrity stylist, reality show judge, fashion designer and brand collaborator, Roach has now become an author.

Law Roach tells his story in his first book, How to Build a Fashion Icon: Notes on Confidence on From the World’s Only Image Architect. In this tome, Roach talks about his fashion career’s journey, top red-carpet moments, styling advice, and more. 

Roach talks about more than his journey as a celebrity fashion stylist in this book. How to Build a Fashion Icon also has step-by-step commentary through the creative and how to acquire success in the fashion industry.

You can pre-order How to Build a Fashion Icon from amazon.com. How to Build a Fashion Icon will be available, and in bookstores on September 24.

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Kors’ practicality and luxury for fathers

Father’s Day is a little over a week away. And to celebrate the man in your life, Michael Kors has tapped soccer star Nicholas Krause and his supermodel wife Grace Elizabeth for his 2024 Father’s Day campaign.

Styled by Alex Harrington, this 2024 Father’s Day campaign highlights Kors’ luxury aesthetic combined with the brand’s practicality. This collection is about elevated accessories and casual separates for the man in your life.

Key pieces include leather and soft suede backpacks and crossbody bags, perfect for on-the-go convenience while maintaining a polished look. The 2024 Father’s Day campaign was shot by renowned fashion photographer Cass Bird.

William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Coveteur Shutters, Calvin Klein’s New Pride Campaign, and Trouble for Dion Lee

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Calvin Klein has a new Pride campaign starring supermodel Cara Delevingne and singer Jeremy Pope. The 2024 ‘This Is Love’ campaign has Jeremy and Cara lip synching to Crystal Waters’ 90s pop hit “100% Pure Love” alongside models and dancers Stella Maxwell, Greta Hofer, Tinglei Liu, Monet Lauren, Charlie Knepper, Vinson Fraley, Janick Heilijgers, Diego Pasillas, and Mauro van de Kerkhof. 

This campaign, shot by Gordon von Steiner, captures Delevingne and Pope in the brand’s annual Pride collection “embracing the joyful, confident energy of Pride.”  Calvin Klein states that the entire cast in the campaign “channels the euphoric spirit of Pride and the strength of the LGBTQIA+ community through expressive dance and unfiltered displays of confidence.”

This new ‘This Is Love’ campaign contains classic Calvin Klein underwear and apparel silhouettes infused with “with the vibrant energy of Pride.” New Intense Power underwear styles have a limited-edition logo waistband designed with a bright rainbow gradient. Additionally, this new collection contains two limited edition tee shirts in partnership with its NGO partners, Transgender Law Center, and ILGA World. 

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Another one bites the dust

Well, it is happening again, another fashion and beauty magazine bites the dust. That’s right, the latest victim Coveteur magazine is shutting down on June 15.

Most of the staff has been laid off, with six editors remaining to take the fashion outlet through June 15. This shutdown comes on the heels of a site revamp a few months ago, and also the appointment of Jenna Lyons as its new editor-in-chief in February.

According to Adweek magazine Coveteur is closing shop because the online outlet did not meet its revenue goals, despite increased social media presence and followers. Founded in 2011, Coveteur was acquired by Great Bowery for $15 million dollars.

In late 2023, Coveteur’s parent company, Great Bowery, set out to rebrand the company with a new look to the publication and bringing on Jenna Lyons. Poor Jenna, is anything working for her these days?

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It ain’t over til it’s over

Another major fashion brand is facing financial challenges in 2024. As many fashion brands are struggling with staying afloat in 2024—Prabal Gurung, Mara Hoffman, and others—New York-based Australian designer Dion Lee is also experiencing a financial crisis.

Lee has placed his eponymous brand under voluntary administration after the withdrawal of investment and partnership by Australian brand and retailer Cue, which had acquired a major share in Dion Lee in 2013.  Dion Lee’s brand was dependent on Cue’s financial investment and now that Cue’s investment has ended, Lee is pursuing other potential investors.

Dion Lee has been a staple of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) for several seasons. With the departure of Cue, for its spring 2024 collection Dion Lee collaborated with social commerce platform Emcee as a show sponsor. 

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Mara Hoffman Closes Shop, Timothée Chalamet’s New Gig, and Goodbye Bruce Nordstrom

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Mara Hoffman is shutting down her eponymous sustainable fashion brand. Hoffman launched her namesake brand in 2004 and acquired a sustainable celebrity following that included Beyoncé, Kim and Kourtney Kardashian, Kendall Jenner, Miranda Kerr, Paris Hilton, and more.

In a recent interview for Vogue, Hoffman expressed her gratitude to the fashion industry for being a part of industry for over 20 years. “I am deeply humbled to have been given the gift to play a role that allows me to create beauty and then have it live in the world in such a meaningful way,” Hoffman said. “To have the privilege to work with and for women and to be able to have some level of impact on their lives, even in small or subtle ways. This has given me such purpose and joy and I know in my heart, this is what I am here to do in this life. It has been an honor to step into a position of responsibility, to become an example of change in this industry, and show the potential for new systems that are more loving, Earth centered, and kinder. I will forever remain an advocate and supporter of the tireless work being done by the exceptional people working in this space. The ones fighting for a new version.”

Closing the label “is by far the hardest thing I’ve ever had to do in my life … I didn’t want other people’s ideas of solutions and how they thought it could be fixed or where I could have done things differently.”

After graduating from Parsons in 1999, Hoffman launched her brand a few years later, making sustainability the core focus of her brand in 2014. She expanded her brand to include large sizes in 2018 and opened her first store in 2022.

“There are not many companies that have successfully done this for as long of a period as we have. And the reality is that the demands that are on a small company financially make it almost impossible to be privately held and run after a certain point.”

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Timothée’s new job

Timothée Chalamet has a new job. Chanel has assigned Chalamet his first campaign with its fragrance Bleu de Chanel as its new brand ambassador.

For Chalamet’s first campaign with Bleu de Chanel, Chanel has chosen Martin Scorsese to direct the short film. This short film follows Chalamet throughout his day, from Chalamet waking up in Soho to his appearance on a late-night talk show.

This long-awaited short film was shot last spring in New York City.  “We were in Queens at four in the morning and he was bounding up the subway stairs. It should’ve to me sooner that I try to find something to work on with him. Yes, it’s a perfume ad, but for me it was an opportunity for an enormous education,” explained Chalamet in a November 2023 GQ article.

Chalamet did not want the short film to resemble an ad for a product. The short film reflects the actor’s conflict with his celebrity status and staying true to himself. And he felt Scorsese was the perfect director to bring that reflection to film.

“I have some friends that aren’t as interested in the high-fashion space, but when I tell them I’m doing a short film with Martin Scorsese in New York, their ears prick up. He lives and breathes moviemaking. The conversations we’ve had over Zoom have been super enthused. For him, it’s like hitting the treadmill.”

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Bye, bye Bruce

Bruce Nordstorm, heir to one of the largest American retail stores, has died. Nordstrom helped transform the family business from a regional footwear store to a large American retail empire.

In 1963, Bruce Nordstrom began to run the company his grandfather founded, presiding over the regional chain of shoe stores. Nordstrom transformed the company by fostering customer loyalty in a friendly environment. He added live music played on a baby grand piano instead of the typical generic music piped in over speakers. He also made changing rooms larger and added more sales associates so that customers’ needs were always met.

“All retailers in America have awakened to the Nordstrom threat and are struggling to catch up,” said Leonard Lauder, who headed cosmetics maker Estée Lauder Cos., according to a 1989 New York Times article, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “Nordstrom is the future of retailing.”

In 2006 when Bruce Nordstrom retired the department store, Nordstrom had $8.6 billion in revenue generated by full-line stores and Nordstrom Rack discount sites. In the company’s most recent fiscal year, it recorded sales of almost $15 billion.

Bruce Nordstrom is survived by his three children, Peter, Erik, and Blake.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Kendall Jenner’s New Vogue Cover, Paris Hilton and Nicole Richie Together Again, and Perry Ellis Teams Up with the Miami Dolphins

Image courtesy of wsj.com

After almost two decades in the media, the Kardashian/Jenner clan is still going strong. Wagging tongues still wag about Kris Jenner, Kim, Khloe, and Courtney Kardashian, Kylie Jenner, and Kendall Jenner.

Recently, Kendall Jenner stunned on the 2024 Met Gala red carpet in a 1999 Alexander McQueen archival gown.  To add to that, Kendall will also excite pulses on the 2024 June/July cover of Vogue.

Kendall wears a two-piece Chanel ensemble for the cover, captured by photographer duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott.  Inside the issue, Kendall is dressed in garments from Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta, Michael Kors, Marni, Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Hermès, Jacquemus, Ralph Lauren, Alaïa, Rabanne, and Valentino Haute Couture, all styled by Tabitha Simmons.

Kendall Jenner’s new Vogue cover coincides with her 10th anniversary as a fashion model. “Fashion was my therapy,” Jenner confesses to editor Rob Haskell, who penned the Vogue article in the June/July issue.” I’ve always been a bit of a stresser but putting on a beautiful dress gives me a sense of control.”

Image courtesy of fashionnetwork.com

Perry Ellis and the Miami Dolphins

This past Tuesday Perry Ellis International (PEI) announced their partnership with the Miami Dolphins. As a part of this partnership, PEI will serve as a support sponsor on the key Miami Dolphins Foundation events such as the Alumni Weekend Golf Classic and the Draft Weekend Golf Classic.

The Miami Dolphins ties with PEI go back to 1972 when Perry Ellis dressed the Miami Dolphins in suiting and other apparel. Recently, the Miami Dolphins’ Tua Tagovailoa acquired a brand ambassadorship with Perry Ellis.

“At Perry Ellis, the ‘Always Ready’ spirit is woven into everything we do,” said Oscar Feldenkreis, president and CEO of Perry Ellis International, Inc., in a recent fashionnetwork.com article.

“It’s a kinship we share with the world of sports – a game-winning mindset that the Miami Dolphins exemplify. We’re thrilled to nurture this relationship with the franchise and connect with players and fans through fashion and lifestyle. Our partnership with the Miami Dolphins represents an exciting new chapter for Perry Ellis International. We aim to capture the essence of confidence and versatility that defines the sports community, while offering a fresh take on athlete-inspired fashion.”

Image courtesy of tmz.com

Together again

Speaking of partnerships, it appears that Nicole Ritchie and Paris Hilton are together again for a new project. According to Page Six of the New York Post, Paris and Nicole are set to star in a new reality show, though the premise for this new show is not known.

Paris Hilton and Nicole Ritchie starred in the hit reality television show “The Simple Life” from 2003 to 2007. “The Simple Life” not only made Paris and Nicoe households names, but also opened up the world of fashion to both stars. Nicole created the fashion brand House of Harlow, while Paris Hilton launched her fashion brand on the heels of “The Simple Life.” Paris has also collaborated and been a brand ambassador for major fashion brands.

—William S. Gooch

 

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