Trend Report: Red, Red Everywhere

 

If Samuel Coleridge had attended Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week this past season perhaps he would have changed the refrain in his classic poem The Rime of the Ancient Mariner from “water, water everywhere” to “red, red everywhere.” From New York to Milan to Paris, there was a lot of red on the catwalk. And not just your basic standard red, but emperor silk red, rich shades of amber red,  dark chocolate red, and accusatory scarlet-letter red; in other words, red, red, and more red.

Tadashi Shoji fall/winter 2012 images courtesy of style.com

Fashion designers have had a long-standing love affair with red, but for fall/winter 2012 this love affair became in all out obsession. Of course, there is always lots of red during award season, but for the upcoming fall/winter 2012 season, ladies you better get out your red dress or consider purchasing a couple of new red frocks.

Valentino fall/winter 2012

From Valentino to Monique L’huillier to Tadashi Shoji to Donna Karan, red in a variety of shades was definitively le couleur premier de crayon of the season. “Red is one of the most universally accepted bright colors for the winter season.  It is rich and classic in nature and every woman should have a classic red dress in her wardrobe,” concedes fashion designer Loris Diran. “One of the most important red tones for winter is a blue red, more commonly known as fire-engine red. This tone of red almost always brightens the skin and works on most skin tones.”

Monique Lhuillier fall/winter 2012 images courtesy of style.com

What stood out most with the proliferation of red this season was the ingenious mix of different shades of red with a plethora of fabrications, textures and trends.  Valentino expressed his affection for red in a supershort, long-sleeved, red lace dress with poufy micro skirt. Tadashi Shoji expertly mixed shades of red lace, layered with tulle, organza and silk chiffon; while Monique Lhuillier combined shades of volcanic and lava red with leather and sequins. And Zang Toi seamlessly employed color blocking in tones of emperor silk red and orange-rustic amber.

Zang Toi fall/winter 2012 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Whether gliding down a runway, posing for paparazzi or looking deliciously stylish, red will be the color of your true love for fall/winter 2012.

—William Gooch

Emerging Designer Nicki Cozzolino Gets It Right

Emerging designer Nicki Cozzolino seems to have the Midas touch when it comes to creating chic, sophisticated garments that easily transition from day to night that are not overwhelmed by, but do acknowledge current trends. It takes a special genius to meld your signature look with current trends, and also satisfy customers who wants clothes they can wear at every jointure of their day. “My spring collection is really about lightness, fluidity and ease but carrying that lightness of being in and urban setting; clothes that can transition from day to night, still always looking fabulous. There is a big range in my clothes; there is always something playful, and some quirkiness. Overall there is an optimism to my garments; a lightheartedness,” explains Cozzolino.

Cozzolino’s spring 2012 capsule collection contains a wide range of separates and prints in fabrics that range from silk charmeuse and crepe to chine to double georgette and textured leather. “Ultimately, I design from the point of view that I am my customer. So I am designing pieces that I would want to wear at any point in my day. I might want to be casual on the weekend and wear shorts, but how does that translate into what I would wear at night. So I am always trying to answer these questions in my clothes,” details Cozzolino.

Cozzolino looked to the 1970s for inspiration for her spring 2012 capsule collection mixed in with clothes that have a fluidity of movement. “I wanted retro 70s [for this collection], but updated and always chic and sexy … I played on the high-waisted pants from the 70s with ribbon belts,” detailed Cozzolino. “I am a creature of comfort and that translates into my design aesthetic and fabric choices. One of the responses I get when people try on my clothes is the ease and comfort of the pieces.”

Images courtesy of Nicki Cozzolino

From extended crotch, yogi-inspired pants to great sophisticated, yet easy, tops, with this spring collection, Nicki Cozzolino has tapped into the needs of the modern women’s thirst for chic clothes that matches her contemporary lifestyle.

—William Gooch

 

 

 

 

Decades for Modern Vintage Keeps you Well Soled for Spring

 

70s-inspired shoe

In NYC you always know that spring is in the air when trees start to bud, fewer people are wearing heavy coats and swaddling scarves, and the early afternoon sweet singsong chime of the ice cream truck combines with the sounds of laughing school children, rumbling delivery trucks, and construction crews. Well, at least it’s that way in my neighborhood. When this cacophony of sound envelopes your neighborhood, it is true signal that it’s time to put away your urban warrior footwear and relax into some sexy heels that complement your feet and your state of mind.

50s-inspired suede pump

Modern Vintage has partnered with vintage connoisseur, Cameron Silver of Decades, to debut its first footwear collaboration, Decades for Modern Vintage.  “Cameron is a leader in the vintage world and understands the market inside and out,” explained Rick Cytrynbaum, founder of Modern Vintage.  “He was just a natural fit for us, one who has impeccable taste and an exceptional vision.”

60s-inspired shoe

Decades for Modern Vintage references four decades in their debut collection. The 50’s shoe with the curved heel is available in black or blue suede leather with a removable strap. The 60’s shoe with its class t-strap and color blocked, peep toe pump is an homage to Pucci. Studio 54 was the obvious inspiration for the 70’s shoe with its cork-based platform and metallic rope detail. The waved wedge, which features geometric and angular details, gives a nod to the 80s. This wedge comes in scene-stealing bronze, taupe, and brown.

80s-inspired platforms, images courtesy of SirenPR

Decades for Modern Vintage can be found in Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, and online at shopbop.com. Shoes retail between $250

—William Gooch

 

 

Men’s Accessories Alert: PF Flyers Mixes Tradition with a Contemporary Vibe

PF Flyers, known for their simplistic and trend setting designs, celebrated their 75th anniversary with a sneak peek at their capsule collection in New York. Fashion Reverie was given the unique opportunity to get an early look at this capsule collection, which included styles that ranged fromCenter Hi and  Grounder II, to the Windjammer. The collection also featured unbleached canvas and natural tan leather.

The Anniversary Collection will be available in limited quantities at Boston’s The Tannery, and Kith NYC in May 2012. Along with the Anniversary Collection, there was a preview of  the fall ’12 collection  which included knit shoe tongues incorporated on classics favorites like the Center Hi to the “go anywhere” Grounder II, which gives its vintage style a revamped classic look.

Luke Garro of Antler held a handcraft beer brewing demonstration that complimented PF Flyers constant production of the finest quality of shoe it can. Just like the American Farmhouse Ale ingredients you get a true insight into how the ending result of quality products are truly from the components they are made up of. ( Rethink this paragraph and tie it in more with the event and PF Flyers.) (How does the beer compliment the shoes?)

PF Flyers has the right kinds of styles to lace up your style for this spring.

—Cory Orlando

Jones New York and Wes Gordon: The Perfect Match

Rising design star Wes Gordon has joined forces with mass retailer Jones New York to create a spring capsule collection just at the right time when consumers are shedding coats, swaddling scarves and exposing more skin.  Approached by Jones New York after his triumphant and much heralded collection during New York Fashion Week in February 2011, Gordon’s distinguished academic and professional achievements, as well as design background, prepped him for his collaboration with Jones New York.  “I grew up in Atlanta but when I decided I wanted to go to design school I knew I wanted to go to St. Martins in London, “explained Gordon. “ With the old, ivy-covered buildings and the great history of the school, St. Martins was like Hogwarts for fashion. It was an incredibly creative place to study fashion.”

With this collaboration Wes Gordon joins the long list of designers—from Anna Sui and Isaac Mizrahi at Target to Zac Posen, Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and now Marni at H&M—who are collaborating with big retail chains. “Jones [New York] contacted me after my third collection and because my company is small, it was very easy to facilitate this collaboration. I learned so much in the process,” details Gordon.

Inspired by classic American resort wear, in this collaboration, Gordon stayed with a classic spring palette and motifs paired with an Asian influence.  “We have classic spring resort wear in this collection. And you see those spring resort motifs expressed in our black, navy and white and lime color palette to summer striped motifs, to linens with an Asian aesthetic to make the collection more modern,” relates Gordon.

Price points range from lime sateen pants at $138 to jackets and blazers at $248 upward to $398. Jones New York/Wes Gordon spring capsule collection is now available in Bloomingdale’s and can be seen in the window of Bloomingdale’s flagship store in NYC.

—William Gooch

 

Images courtesy of HLGroup

For Acustom Apparel Necessity Is the Mother of Invention

Getting that perfect pair of jeans or a dress suit that is comfortable but well-made can be a challenge for any shopper, particularly if your body dimensions don’t fit the typical size charts. How many times have you tried on a suit that is almost perfect except it fits to snugly around the shoulder blades or fit a great pair of low-riding jeans that would be perfect, but they ride a little too low for comfort.

Acustom Apparel has come up with a digital body scanning device that may be the answer to your prayers if you are looking for exactitude when it comes to fit and comfort. Capitalizing on a dearth in the market for custom-made clothes that are accessible and affordable, founder and CEO Jamal Montagh is tapping into a much underserved segment. “The way fitting is done for mass market is based on how soldiers were measured for uniforms during the Civil War. Fittings haven’t changed that much over the past hundred years … Finding a pair jeans that fit well can be a big challenge for most women, especially if the shopper is curvy,” explains a spokesperson for Acustom Apparel. “Acustom Apparel saw a need in the market for getting precise measurements for custom-made clothing.”

Though the digital technology used by Acustom Apparel was not originated by the Jamal Montagh, Montagh has enhanced what was already used by high-end, custom-made brands. “We did not invent the technology. What we have done at Acustom Apparel is create algorithms and ways to create a pattern that pairs up with the technology that already existed. The technology we use involves scanning the body with light, when reflected off the body comes up with over 200 sensory data points which gives a pixelated image of the body without a facial image. These algorithms enhance the existing technology which enables Acustom Apparel to render a more precise fit at a less expensive price point,” explains an Acustom Apparel rep. An affordable it is!! Imagine purchasing a pair of custom-made jeans for around $200 as opposed to over a $1000 at more pricey stores and boutiques. The same applies for Acustom Apparel’s custom-made suits that run around $700 to a $1000 compared to other custom-made suits that cost upward of $3000.

Images courtesy of Acustom Apparel

Still, the proof is in the pudding. Though the scanning booth does conjure up images of Star Trek and Captain Kirk, the end product was superb jeans and stylish suits that fit well, at an affordable price. And for that corporate guy who hates shopping and has to wear a suit every work day, this is a great alternative. With one digital scan, he can custom order his suits online based on his exact measurements.

And there is one extra bonus, all manufacturing is done in the US!! —William Gooch

 

Editor’s Pick: Reformation and Spring & Clifton Collaboration Mixes Cali Surf and NYC Boho

Though we haven’t had much of a harsh winter, sun lovers still long for the ease and comfort of sandy beaches and that California dreaming, relaxed style. Well look no further, Reformation, known for its sophisticated, reworked vintage aesthetic, has joined forces with the relaxed Southern California style of Spring & Clifton. Though this is not a marriage of brands that immediately comes to mind, Michelle Zacks of Spring & Clifton is convinced that both brands complement each other. “I would say that our collective teenage years spent in Southern California played a role in the look of the collab. References include surf and skate culture, music, art, and downtown NYC meets SoCal,” says Michelle.

The combined aesthetic is evidenced in garments that marry baja/leather combos with reworked knits and tees. Though the baja/leather pieces are the core elements of this limited edition collection, there are some great reworked cashmere sweaters and vintage tees. This collection, perhaps, works best when mixed and matched with garments that you already own.

Images courtesy of SirenPR

For those who want eco-friendly, home-grown, stylish clothes, the Reformation and Spring & Clifton collaboration will be a great asset to your spring wardrobe.  And with price points ranging from $85 to $300, this affordable collection is available online and at Reformation stores beginning in early February.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

GN Therapy Jeans Proves that Luxury and Eco-Friendly Can Go Hand-in-Hand

 

Eco-friendly fashion often conjures up images of granola, hippy dippy garments made of hemp and other biodegradable natural fibers that speak more to a more environmentally sound perspective than a fashion-forward sensibility. In other words, it is hard to imagine that eco-friendly clothes and a luxury aesthetic can be compatible bedfellows.

GN Therapy is proving that luxury points of view and an eco-friendly approach are not mutually exclusive. With prices ranging from $400 to $1600, GN Therapy jeans is tapping into that luxury consumer who wants environmentally friendly clothes that have a high-end approach to construction and design.  “The GN Therapy Project was created out of love for the denim connoisseur, representing human kindness, compassion, affection and the daily lifestyle. With a desire to maintain creativity, our number one priority is to renovate the denim industry while preserving the gifts Mother Earth has bestowed upon us. Through Eco-Aging ™, we strive to make the developmental process of denim as “green” as possible,” says a spokesperson for the brand.

GN Therapy marries the principles of environmentally sound product with the luxury lifestyle. “GN Therapy is a lifestyle brand that appreciates the quality, time, and workmanship of true denim.  GN Therapy also enhances social awareness while giving [consumers] the exclusive fashion lifestyle. This concept grew from the desire to be original, and the emergence of the green movement.  Our unique process is about creating a one-of-a-kind garment that tells a story and is as unique as the person who wears it,” details a GN Therapy spokesperson.

Images courtesy of GN Therapy

With those thoughts in mind, GN Therapy through March 31 will hold an online fundraiser for the first pair of “Mojave Washed” jeans.  The jeans will go to the highest donor and will be packaged in a custom box, complete with stock certificate, burlap bag, brush and flask with elements from the location.  Donations to this initiative can be made at mycharitywater.org/gntherapyproject.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

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