Womenswear — Page 73

Kara Ross Resort/Holiday 2013

July 9, 2012 by admin 2 Comments

As the resort market continues to grow, accessories designers are not only standing up and taking notice of this continuing, expansive segment of the fashion industry, but finding innovative ways of taking advantage of this boom. From an early age Kara Ross has had a love affair with gemstones and jewelry making. For her 2012/2013 collection Ross looked to a kaleidoscope of vivid colors and hues and the great art movements of the past for inspiration.

Tapping into the continuing trend of animal prints in vibrant colors, Kara Ross ingeniously combines the rich color palettes of blazin’ pink, turquoise and green with the exotic reptile skins of alligator, lizard, and python. This resort season for the first time Ross utilized tortoise resin, as well as clear crystals. “We were using the python before in other collections for our handbags and we had all this scrap leftover, so for this collection to be more thrifty and cost-conscious we used the leftover scraps from our handbags and made some interesting jewelry,” details Kara Ross.

Expanding upon the color trend, Kara Ross looked to the Fauvist tradition in art, particularly the work of Georges Braque, evidenced in colorful pieces that produce a strong emotional reaction. “We took very bright pictures from fashion magazines and collaged it onto wood. The result is lots of bright color and jewelry that is very lightweight. Also, the beauty in these items is that you don’t know exactly what the jewelry is made of,” explains Ross.

Again looking to Georges Braque in his Cubist period, there are several pieces in the resort collection that express a Cubist aesthetic through rounded geometric form and repetitive patterned shapes. Ross enhances these pieces by employing crystals and animal skins which plays on the shadow and silhouette of each item.

Kara Ross 2012/2013 resort collection images courtesy of AtelierPR

Kara Ross’ 2012/2013 resort/holiday collection would not be complete without the gem-shaped clutch bags that she is known for. She expands upon her signature gem-shaped clutch bags by incorporating pantone-colored fabrications of python, lizard, and alligator. Ross has even included a clutch large enough for an I-Pad and small laptop.

For more information about Kara Ross’ 2012/2012 resort/holiday collection, go to kararossny.com

Chado Ralph Rucci Resort/Holiday 2013

July 5, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

For Resort/Holiday 2013, Ralph Rucci infused color and texture into his 30-plus piece collection. Now, texture is no stranger to Rucci; Rucci has always incorporated into lots of textures and layering of different fabrications into all his collections regardless of the season or the trends. Still, for his resort/holiday 2013 Rucci expressed this layering technique in some very interesting and innovative ways. Only Ralph Rucci would consider using multiple layers of linen combined with subtle accents of organza and netting. And Rucci’s combination of soft sequins with peek-a-boo netting renders just the right mix of sass and seduction.

There are many influences in this resort collection, the most obvious being Rucci’s ongoing love affair with all things Asian and architectural construction. However, there are some 60s Mod influences, as well as a hint of a 1920s aesthetic evidenced in Rucci’s matte jersey dresses that flare out just above the knee.

With Rucci’s use of Ultrasuede, Rucci is paying homage to his former mentor Halston. Also, Rucci use of wide-legged pants gave a nod to the 70s; particularly, Rucci’s pongee silk green pajama pant ensemble, which was one of the true standouts in this collection.

The genius of Ralph Rucci is that he can take something as classic as the simple black cocktail dress and add a series of simple details, thereby reinventing this look and making it relevant to a variety women from different age and body demographics. Rucci’s sequined, black cocktail dress with netting peek-a-boo meets the definition of reinventing the wheel.

Always innovative with superb craftsmanship, Rucci’s intellectual approach to design is deeply rooted in fashion as wearable art with a unique understanding of what women want to want to wear. This collection was no exception. Bravo Ralph!!

—William S. Gooch

Chado Ralph Rucci 2013 Resort/Holiday images courtesy of Chado Ralph Rucci

Nonoo Resort/Holiday 2013

June 18, 2012 by admin 1 Comment

The excitement continues in 2012 for emerging brand Nonoo. Since opening an independent showroom in Soho and winning the Fashion Group International’s Rising Star Award for women’s ready-to-wear, creative director Misha Nonoo is riding a wave of personal satisfaction, as well as an expansion of the brand.

Known for her commitment to expert tailoring and sculptural silhouettes, for her 2013 resort collection Misha Nonoo looked to the Countess Mountbatten of Burma and her sense of style for inspiration. By combining botanical prints and vicereine paisley with lace details and sequined embellishments, Nonoo successfully demonstrates in this collection how colonial influences and indigenous cultures can create a synthesis of styles and silhouettes seen through a kaleidoscope of vivid colors, textures and fabrications.

Images courtesy of Deborah Hughes Inc.

Nonoo also expertly marries vintage silhouettes from the 1940s and 70s evidenced in wide-legged pants with shoulder- padded blouses rendering an updated image of 40s screen icons Veronica Lake and Dorothy Lamour meets 70s sitcom queen Mary Tyler Moore.

For more information, go to nonoony.com.

—William S. Gooch

Falguni and Shane Peacock Fall/Winter 2012

March 9, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Falguni and Shane Peacock turned the volume way up in their second outing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. As purveyors of rock n’ roll chic combined with a fashion-forward sensibility, Falguni and Shane Peacock have gathered a significant following among pop singers, celebrities, media personalities and that edgy consumer who wants garments that shock and awe.

In this outing the design duo went a bit further. What was most evident in their fall/winter 2012 collection is that Falguni and Shane Peacock are genius at mixing trends and layering embellishments in a way that is not garish or overdone.

Though this collection had a dark gothic, sinister quality, which set well with the punk 80s aesthetic that was projected throughout the collection; there was a lightness of being in the combination of sheer fabrics paired with sequin and feathers‒embellished tribal prints.

Falguni and Shane Peacock also used a variety of model prototypes in their show, from a punked-out, crew cut, androgynous beauty to pony-tailed vixens. Falguni and Shane Peacock believe that their clothes go from chic to edgy, with a nod to the devilish rebel, culminating in an aesthetic that screams rockstar. Rock on!!

—William Gooch

Stephen Burrows Fall/Winter 2012

March 8, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

“New York City, New York City girl,” crooned Odyssey, the 70s disco group. And that song describes the inspiration that is so much a part of Stephen Burrows’ point of view and runway presentations, especially his fall/winter 2012 collection.

In this outing, Burrows continued his love affair with knit jersey and color blocking, distilled through the prism of a 70s aesthetic. Super tight jeans, a result of Burrows’ collaboration with Raven Jeans, wide-legged pants and chevron motifs all added to sexiness of this collection. “Uneven chevron is a signature motif of mine, so we found different ways to integrate that motif into the collection using color blocking. Sometimes you have ups and downs in life. So that was an inspiration for us this season. We are also incorporating stretch denim into this collection. What can I say, body-conscious clothes was the order of the day this time out,” details Burrow.

Marry this sexy vibe with Burrows’ special brand of flirty models and you have a show that takes you back to a time where supermodels ruled on the runway and fashion shows were a reflection of the designer’s philosophy of life. As always knit jersey is Burrows fabric of choice, a fabric that has been a major part of his collection for over 30 years. “The main reason that I use jersey season after season is because it is comfortable and gives with the body,” explains Burrows.

And as knit jersey gives and conforms to body, Stephen Burrows continues to give to fashion community and consumers more and more of his genius

—William Gooch

Images courtesy of style.com

Custo Barcelona Fall/Winter 2012

March 7, 2012 by admin 1 Comment

Custo Barcelona has always been known for its eclectic, cutting-edge, rock n’ roll fashion. Though this season was no exception, the brand presented looks that were more a bit more commercial. The genius of this collection was to make some order out of the disparate points of view and references and contrasting fabrications and silhouettes. Out of this goulash of inspirations, emerged a collection that was adventurous, fun and many ways retail friendly.

Custo Barcelona has a reputation for mixing and matching. And sometimes their assemblage of fabric choices and kaleidoscopes of colors comes off as a brilliant, but disordered mishmash. However, evidenced in this collection, the brand is evolving to an interesting viable projection to wear fashion is heading. In other words, they are developing a method to their perceived madness.

Images courtesy of style.com

Custo Barcelona referenced several trends from past seasons in this collection, from tribal prints to crystal and sequin embellishments to early 70s fringed looks. And the menswear in this collection had a decidedly British mod/ hybrid 80s British pop band aesthetic. From the fringed sequined, sleeveless hoodies paired with miniskirts to the wild wool suits with leather fabrications, creative director Custo Dalmau ingeniously found a way to make contrasting volumes combined with odd embellishments fashion-forward, but still stylish. Custo Barcelona rock on!!

—William S. Gooch

Betsey Johnson Fall/Winter 2012

March 7, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Betsey Johnson looked to the Fab Four and Carnaby Street of the 1960s for inspiration for her fall/winter 2012 collection. As usual, the frothy, frolicky attitude that Betsey Johnson is known for permeated this collection; still, there were some highly retail looks, and always with Betsy there was lots of color, and in this case, the psychedelic palette color ruled the day.

From psychedelic prints to coats with faux fur trim to skinny herringbone suits to sequined mini dresses, Betsey’s sometimes literal translation of 60s British mod mixed well with pieces that reflected Betsey’s signature girlie aesthetic.

This collection proved that even after several decades in the industry, Betsey Johnson still marches to her own drum, knows how to keep her fashion-forward customers happy, and always puts on a good show. Bravo Betsey!!

—William S. Gooch

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Monique Lhuillier Fall/Winter 2012

March 7, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

In contrast to her spring/summer 2012 collection, in which Lhuillier funneled her couture aesthetic through a prism of streamlined, athletic-inspired garments, Lhuillier fall/winter 2012 collection was a fashion compendium on all things Lhuillier. From the lava and volcanic stones prints to the black and red palette, inspired by the “Year of the Dragon,” this season Lhuillier’s silhouettes were sharper and more forceful, even teetering on the edge of bondage and control.

Lhuillier, like many designers this season, embraced a 50’s silhouette evidenced in dresses that had more volume and gowns that gave a nod to the classic Hollywood glamor of the 1950s. By adding jumpsuits, slacks, and separates in this collection, Lhuillier is attempting to expand her brand beyond red-carpet and award-season fare.

The genius of Lhuillier in this outing was in her lava/volcanic stone prints. How the artisans that work with Lhuillier managed to print the lava pattern directly on to lace without diminishing the lacy effect of the fabric is a embellishment mystery; still, the look evoked a mood of sensual elegance.

Images courtesy of style.com

Lhuillier combined the current trends of sheer fabrics, lace and sequined embellishments expertly in this collection, without one trend overshadowing the others. And the standout piece was the closing look, a red lace ball gown with organza layered skirt.

—William Gooch

Zang Toi Fall/Winter 2012

March 7, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Referencing Hollywood glamour is common fare for fashion designers whose oeuvre is red carpet looks and high end cocktail dresses. Still, very few designers do sophisticated glamour better than Zang Toi, so his choice of 60s Hollywood glamour was a match made in heaven.

For Zang Toi’s “Glamour at Gstaad” fall/winter 2012 collection, there was lots of emperor red, plunging necklines and fur embellishments. And it all worked beautifully, with styling that was sheer perfection.

In this collection Zang Toi dressed his customer at every jointure of her day, from an ivory wool boucle-sculpted skirt suit to a black cotton corduroy capelet trenchcoat to a ruby couture silk cotton column gown with beaded imperial garland court train. The showstopper of the collection was the final look, a silk organza Gstaad ballgown with attached beaded black miniskirt.

And Zang Toi was able to keep this sophisticated, elegant collection, youthful and on trend; a feat that designers with more brand recognition and decades of experience still find arduous, if not formidable.

—William S. Gooch

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Tadashi Shoji Fall/Winter 2012

March 7, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Season after season Tadashi Shoji presents collections that can flatter a variety of physiques and embraces a wide range of age demographics. Because Tadashi Shoji is primarily a red carpet/cocktail dress designer, you will probably not find separates; particularly tops and slacks in collections. (He designs were seen at the SAG and Golden Globes Awards this season.) However, what is most evident about Shoji is that his brand has evolved and each season he successfully incorporates a plethora of trends and color palettes.

This season Shoji looked to the Golden Age of Shanghai of the 1920s for inspiration. Shoji masterfully combined lace and sheer fabric trends in this collection; a feat that some designers struggled with. While in previous seasons Shoji stayed with neutrals and pastel colors, for this collection Shoji adopted a more vibrant color palette of deeps reds, sylvan greens, and rich autumn shades.

Images courtesy of style.com

There were several standouts in this collection from a 20’s‒inspired drop-waist dress done in a digital print taken from a Chinese painting to several red dresses and gowns of Chantilly lace and tulle. Also, Shoji’s detail work and beaded embellishments elevated this collection from just a parade beautiful dresses and red carpet looks to a stunning fashion-forward interpretation of a golden era that demands closer examination and reflection.

—William S. Gooch