Womenswear — Page 70

Kara Laricks Spring/Summer 2013

September 23, 2012 by admin 1 Comment

Fresh off of her Fashion Star win, Kara Laricks presented a small spring/summer collection of 15 garments. “I am always drawn to the 1920s because of that androgynous looks that comes from that era. I was also drawn to matchbox covers from late 1920s Japan because they had incredible pops of color. So I fused those two elements together for this collection,” detailed Kara Laricks.

Laricks’ predilection for androgynous clothing is a definite carryover from her tenure on Fashion Star where she established her signature look of transforming men’s tuxedoes into casual dress attire for women and making many variations on men’s neckties. This collection was an extension of what we saw on Fashion Star.

Standout looks were Laricks’ tux tail pant in black tropical weight gabardine, cummerbund cocktail dress in raw-edged heirloom organza silk charmeuse, and collared gown in raw-edged ivory organza with ivory silk charmeuse slip. “The matchboxes that inspired me came in emperor red, ivory white, and a very rich black. These colors were perfect for this collection … As far as fabrications, I got a little fancy with this collection and chose silk charmeuse, organza, and heirloom cotton sateen” informed Laricks.

This was a sensible and retail friendly collection for Laricks in her first outing since Fashion Star. Instead of trying to wow editors and buyers with a collection that was out of her comfort zone, Kara Latricks stayed with what worked for her on the show and what will work with consumers.

Kara Laricks spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of styleite.com

Creativity marries business smarts. Hmm, if only more emerging designers could be so smart!!

—William S. Gooch

Ruffian Spring/Summer 2013

September 21, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Photo courtesy by Go Runway

If Marie Antoinette grew up in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, how would she dress? Well, now we may have an idea thanks to Ruffian’s spring/summer 2013 collection.

The juxtaposition of Chuck Taylors with toile prints, ruffles, and corsets gives homage to a classic set of silhouettes. With a color palette ranging from blue to yellow toile, Ruffian takes American utilitarian shapes and creates a conversation that spans a wide demographic. Separates that utilize streetwear-inspired concepts will be attractive to the brand’s classy, yet hipster audience.

Photo courtesy by Go Runway

Oxford shirts, motorcycle pants, and sculpted shift tops incorporate flawless craftsmanship and design. Lace trim shorts are just the start of many intricate details that Ruffian has utilized in this spring/summer collection. Whether it’s a night out on the town or a basic coffee date, Ruffian keeps it simple with design complexities that though complicated appear simple; giving that special detail that variety of women will want in their wardrobes come spring.

With fashion-forward corsets and cropped jackets, Ruffian has extended it brand to embrace silhouettes that go beyond the simple, but classic designs the brand had become known for. This new point of view closes the demographic gap. With this new perspective, even Marie Antoinette would be the hippest person in town.

– Cory Orlando

Noon by Noor Spring/Summer 2013

September 21, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Photos courtesy of Daily Front Row

The emergence of spring gives designers the opportunity an array of sun-bleached colors and light pastels to their collections. Noon by Noor has captured that beauty through rich decadent color and evening silhouettes.

Balancing timeless shapes with modern femininity throughout the collection, Noon by Noor perfectly balances light, color, and flawless construction throughout this spring/summer collection. Keeping modern shapes fresh from brocade biker jackets to silk chiffon t-shirts, this collection is not only eye catching but incorporates details that at closer examination takes this collection to new levels or craftsmanship and artistry.

Photos courtesy of Daily Front Row

Noon by Noor incorporated a color palette that ranged from sunset-inspired separates to bronze metallic pieces. Other details included intricate bead work, feathered shoulders and tailoring details that displayed tremendous craftsmanship.

Photos courtesy of Daily Front Row

Watercolor-like prints make a bold statement in this minimalist, yet luxurious collection. For the woman who wants a flowing gown or a pair of pants with exquisite design, Noon by Noor fits the bill. Whether it be an office lunch or a get together with girlfriends after work, Noon by Noor has great transitional pieces that work well at jointure of the day.

– Cory Orlando

Douglas Hannant Spring/Summer 2013

September 21, 2012 by admin 1 Comment

For his spring/summer 2013 Douglas Hannant looked to garden parties and summer soiree chic for inspiration. Firmly established as one of the designers of choice for the ladies-who-lunch set, in this outing Hannant is expanding his customer base to include a younger, but still sophisticated woman.

There was something is this collection for a variety of women, from 70s‒inspired, chic print jumpsuits to Kim Novak Picnic frothy floral frocks to Daisy Buchanan dropped-wast fare, to ruffled organza blouses to even a few beaded gowns. Regardless of the range of looks, the overwhelming motif was easy, flirty frocks for the woman that wants to have fun while looking feminine and fetching in the Hamptons or at garden party at the estate of the resident doyenne.

Though the wide-brimmed summer hats were a minor distraction, overall this collection was a success in that it demonstrated that Hannant can design for more than those chic upper eastside ladies who lunch at the Plaza or other tony NYC watering holes.

Douglas Hannant spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of style.com and stylebistro.com

Standouts in this collection was Hannant’s revamped Carole Lombard‒like red floral gown, ruby red Marilyn asymmetrical halter dress, and striped ruffled organza blouse with brocade slacks.

—William S. Gooch

Gant by Michael Bastian Spring/Summer 2013

September 21, 2012 by admin 6 Comments

For spring/summer 2013, Gant by Michael Bastian was inspired by the Galapagos Islands and how Darwin’s exploration of these islands helped formulate his groundbreaking theory of evolution. “I love the notion that an inquisitive mind can generate these big ideas” explains Michael Bastian. “Just look at Darwin, whose observations of the wild environment turned into a theory that changed the world. It’s a true testament to the power of remaining curious and forcing yourself to see and experience new things.”

This collection contained the familiar Gant motifs and signature elements; the Michael Bastian camo, knit techniques inspired by Ecuadorian arts and crafts, and leaf prints. Still, Bastian has found a way to incorporate explorer’s gear through the lens of an easy, fashion-forward sensibility that could work in the outback or in a concentrated urban terrain.

Gant by Michael Bastian spring/summer 2013 collection courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in this collection are Bastian’s great fitted camo pants, an olive and turquoise technical parka, and a multicolored Inca jacket. For the ladies, Michael Bastian for Gant has a great lace-up, khaki explorer shirtdress, a dynamic leaf print jean, and a hooded, mesh pullover shirt.

—William S. Gooch

LaQuan Smith Spring/Summer 2013

September 19, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Getting a lot of media buzz early on can be beneficial or the kiss of death to any emerging designer. If reviews are good, everyone anticipates the sophomore showing. If reviews are bad, the designer is easily dismissed as just another starry-eyed neophyte with no talent.

Since his debut showing a few seasons ago, many fashion luminaries have hailed LaQuan Smith’s bold, cutting-edge point of view. And their accolades were well merited. Smith’s spring/summer 2011 collection was a kitschy, but thought-provoking, re-imagining of the Court of Versailles fashion. Unfortunately, Smith’s spring/summer 2013 collection was a mixed smorgasbord of kittenish, fashion-as-art attire that is not only far from wearable, but at times confusing.

Entitled “Beau Jardin,” LaQuan Smith looked to the French countryside and the tranquility of nature for inspiration. In this outing, Smith’s collection did suggest easy breezy, relaxed solitude; however, it was difficult to discern which season Smith had placed this collection. Was this collection spring/summer, resort or just beachwear? It was hard to figure it all out!!

LaQuan Smith spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Follow Your Bliss PR

Smith did incorporate the continuing trends of diaphanous fabrics and bold colors. Still, it is doubtful that many consumers would be comfortable walking around in garments so sheer that very little is left to the imagination.

In spite of the many missed opportunities in this collection, there were some good pieces. Smith’s orange slit maxi jersey dress with white piping was the standout in this collection. And the orange georgette silk wide-legged pants with side slits were also a nice addition.

Every emerging designer needs some seasoning and with LaQuan Smith’s undeniable talent with just a little time and experience, success is guaranteed.

—William S. Gooch

Falguni & Shane Peacock Spring/Summer 2013

September 19, 2012 by admin 1 Comment

When it comes to rock n’ roll fashion no brand is more current and fashion forward than Falguni & Shane Peacock, and for spring/summer 2013 these East Indian Brits turned the volume way up. Having dressed pop icons Lady Gaga, Nicki Minaj, Madonna, Fergie, Jennifer Lopez, Katie Perry and a host of others, Falguni & Shane Peacock could rest on their laurels. Not so. And this particular outing demonstrated that the design team is forging their brand ahead in new and interesting ways.

For spring/summer 2013 Falguni & Shane Peacock took a futuristic approach to their collection. Like many designers this season, Falguni & Shane Peacock stayed with simple silhouettes. There no outlandish, asymmetrical cuts and unusual architectural construction. Instead, Falguni & Shane Peacock chose to embrace classic silhouettes seen through a prism of space-age rockstar meets cyper couture. And they accomplished this perspective by employing high tech fabrications of metallic acrylics and other extreme metallic fabrics.

Though many of the silhouettes are repeated throughout the collection—especially the peplums that have been seen in several collections this season—what Falguni & Shane Peacock accomplished so expertly is combining digitals prints and layered embellishments in ways that make each silhouette into an individual piece of wearable art.

1940s silhouettes in high-tech digital prints with sequins, beading and metallic acrylic fabrications are transformed into futuristic couture. A simple 60s mod silhouette under the creative hand of this team becomes a surreal expression of sci-fi boldness. And gowns with tulle and organza flowing trains become a dissertation on TRON meets Aphrodite.

Falguni & Shane Peacock spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

With this spring/summer 2013 collection, Falguni & Shane Peacock continues to prove that a rocker chick’s sexiness does not have to overshadow her ability to be fashion forward and elegant. In fact, they should never be polar opposites, but one singular expression of beauty and sensuality.

—William S. Gooch

Zang Toi Spring/Summer 2013

September 18, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

For his spring/summer 2013 collection, Zang Toi looked to the romance of the French Riviera. Zang Toi opened his runway show with an ivory silk gazar morning gown with hand-beaded wild flowers bordered with pleated ruffles. This opening look referenced Toi’s narrative of Madam du Château Lourmarin’s morning stroll through her lush gardens on the French Riviera as she reminisced about her fantasy lover.

For those who don’t know, the historic Château Lourmarin was built in the 15^th century and is located in the Provence countryside in the south of France very near to the Cote d’Azur. It is very interesting that Zang Toi looked to this historic castle as an inspiration for his spring/summer 2013 collection. But, Toi has done this before. With Zang Toi there is always a focal narrative. For his fall/winter 2012 collection, Toi conjured up images of Gstaad, in its heyday as a ski resort in the early 60s. Zang Toi has a knack for looking to the past for sophisticated elegance and funneling that chic regality through a prism of modernity. And Zang Toi did just that in this outing.

Zang Toi carried the French Riviera theme, mixed in with a little Folies Bergere, throughout the entire collection. And though the collection has moments of pastiche and a few misses, for the most part the collection was a rounding success.

From Zang Toi’s opening look to his ice pink hand-loomed rayon mini dress to the ice lilac princess ballgown encrusted with ice crystal hand-beaded blossoms and sequins, this collection transcended age demographics and had a variety of looks that a lot of women—if they can afford the price tag—would want to wear.

Zang Toi spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Zang Toi is one of the few designers that show regularly at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week that produces a runway presentation that evokes mood and takes to another place. And it’s a good place; a place where beauty triumphs, and design acumen and attention to detail is the order of the day.

If only life was so. Ah, we can all wish!!

—William S. Gooch

Chado Ralph Rucci Spring/Summer 2013

September 18, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

The writer of the book of Ecclesiastes states there is nothing new under the sun. And though that is true, there are those great design masters who know how to cull and assemble from a variety of sources, familiar images and motifs in such a new and interesting way, it is though the familiar is reborn. Ralph Rucci is one of those masters.

There is no doubt that Ralph Rucci assembles very well. In fact, Rucci assembles so well it is almost as if you are looking at familiar silhouettes for the first time. Rucci’s spring/summer 2013 collection was no exception. With Rucci there is the consistent attention to detail, intricate handwork and artisanal techniques that speak to Rucci’s mien for couture. There are also glimpses of Rucci’s penchant for Asian motifs. What this spring/summer collection demonstrates so beautifully is Rucci’s evolution into expressions of bold color, which we began to see in his spring/summer 2012 collection.

With this outing we see all the masters at work. We see the streamlined simplicity of Halston, we see the grandeur volume of Balenciaga, and we identify other influences. We also see silhouettes from the 60s and 70s. Still, with the panoply of great masters and influences that Rucci has assembled, the signature point of view that stands front and foremost is Rucci himself.

For his spring/summer 2013 collection Rucci dresses most women at every jointure of their day. And he gloriously dresses women from a wider age demographic than in some previous collections. There are great looks that can work at the office, an elegant dinner at Le Cirque, and opening night at the Metropolitan Opera.

Though Rucci’s oeuvre is classic elegance, his point of view is not dated or staid. His opening look, black patent and trapunto silk faille jacket and pant, was sophisticated, yet still youthful. And from Rucci’s Ultrasuede coral dress and smock to his pink bugle-beaded feather dress, this collection went beyond sublime and rested solidly in the realm of divine.

Ralph Rucci spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

What more can be said. Viva Chado Ralph Rucci!!

—William S. Gooch

Rafael Cennamo Spring/Summer 2013

September 17, 2012 by admin Leave a Comment

Venezulean designer Rafael Cennamo looked to the Far East for inspiration for his spring/summer 2013 collection. Though there were lots of sequins, beading and crystal embellishments embedded in silk chiffon, organza, tulle and a variety of luxury fabrications, Cennamo’s affectation for Japanese motifs still shined through.

From the cherry blossom kimono to gowns with metal Obi belts to Asian topknots, Cennamo successfully conjured up images of Geisha concubines and all things of the Orient while pushing his collection into the realm of fashion-forward modernity.

In this outing Cennamo mixed the hard and soft with a color palette that ranged from peach coral to steel grey. Cennamo’s predilection for hard and soft combinations was evidenced in architectural construction married with soft diaphanous fabrics.

Rafael Cennamo spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Though this collection had the appearance of a couture collection one would see from Galliano’s tenure at Dior or even Mugler’s frothy vampish 80s creations —think the opening scene for the cult movie classic Mahogany—Cennamo has solidly placed this collection in the present with several garments that would great on the red carpet.

—William S. Gooch