Nicholas K Fall/Winter 2013

Downloads317Season after season, Nicholas Kunz finds inventive ways to expand upon the draped, boho-chic, layered aesthetic of the brand. Though praise should be given for this accomplishment, for fall/winter 2013 the signature look of Nicholas K seems to be relying too heavily on what has worked in the past without much direction toward what consumers currently want to buy.

Nicholas K 2013 fall/winter womenswear images courtesy  of Patrick Butler

Nicholas K 2013 fall/winter womenswear images courtesy of Patrick Butler

Inspired by the Danish explorer Peter Freuchen’s Artic explorations at the turn of the twentieth century, there was a definite wintry, northern hemisphere reference in this collection expressed through a color palette that ranged from silvery greys to steel blue to occasional tie-dyed green variations and neutral palettes of black, ecru and beige. And there were some interesting shearlings and hoodie combinations that conjured up images of dark Artic nights. Still, this rather somber collection sometimes failed to bring the excitement and fashion-forward sensibility seen in previous outings.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Where Kunz was successful was in the menswear pieces.Though pedestrian at times,  the menswear did have some retail viability, as opposed to many of the women’s looks that looked similar to the Kunz’s nomad aesethtic, with some variation, seen in previous collections. Also, the layering worked better in the men’s garments where well-tailored coats and parkas layered over hoodies gave an easy, consumer-friendly look to this collection. Unfortunately, sometimes the layering on the women’s looks appeared haphazard and unflattering.

Much can still be said for Kunz’s commitment to Nicholas K’s signature look. And with some rethinking and incorporation of a more current direction, this signature look can have market viability and consumer appeal.

—William S. Gooch

Bridal Week Fall/Winter 2013 Roundup: Alfred Angelo, Anne Barge, Monique Lhuillier, and Theia White

That very important day that traditionally comes once in a woman’s life is special for a host of reasons. But, one thing that always serves as a pleasant reminder of that momentous day is the wedding gown.

This bridal season, while some designers chose to put their signature point of view on classic and vintage looks that brides have loved over the decades, some designers have looked to more fashion-forward silhouettes. Still, there were lots of perspectives and trends in play for fall/winter 2013.

Anne Barge fall/winter bridal 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

For fall 2013 Anne Barge continued her trademark style of polished elegance and her predilection for vintage couture with modern touches. As in the past, Anne Barge incorporated intricate beading and embroidery paired with lace and sequin embellishments. Standouts in this fall 2013 collection were Barge’s strapless mermaid gown and beige lace column gown.

Alfred Angelo fall/winter bridal 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Alfred Angelo’s raison d’etre is to transform each bride into her most beautiful self.  With a fall/winter 2013 collection that focused on soft, feminine silhouettes, ethereal draping and soft, unstructured fabrics, Angelo’s collection easily reflects his point of view. And his fairy tale‒inspired homage to Disney’s Cinderella Diamond Jubilee Anniversary added that extra special touch of frothy fantasy.

Theia White fall/winter bridal 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Though Theia White had some traditional bridal looks in its fall/winter 2013 collection, there were a few standouts that work perfectly for that bride that is getting married for the second or third time. Looking to the goddess Theia for inspiration, this collection explored ethereal qualities of transparency and lightness.  The collection color palette ranged from tones of nude, blush and rose-gold to ivory and off white. Standouts were the rose gold metallic fil coupe sweetheart strapless ball gown and porcelain hand-beaded reception dress.

Monique Lhuillier bridesmaids fall 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

No wedding is complete with elegantly attired bridesmaids, and Monique Lhuillier provided a good selection in her fall/winter 2013 bridesmaids collection. In this outing, Lhuillier combined lots of ruching and latticed construction with somber color palette of steel grey, plum, navy and acqua green. Standouts in this collection were the navy one-shoulder tulle trumpet gown with tiered spiral horsehair hem and plum off-the-shoulder shirred tulle cocktail dress.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Douglas Hannant Fall 2013 Bridal Collection

For his fall bridal 2013 collection, Douglas Hannant chose to present gowns that had a definite bridal point of view but could be worn for other special occasions. With the exception of a couple of tiered ball gowns, many of Hannant’s bridal gowns could have fit into his other ready-to-wear collections. But isn’t that what most modern brides want; gowns that could be worn for more than that very special day.

Douglas Hannant gave a nod to classic, slinky silhouettes of 1930’s Hollywood glamour with some 1950’s silhouettes completing the inspiration. (Imagine Carole Lombard and Claudette Colbert’s wedding in the 30s or Marilyn Monroe or Jayne Mansfield’s wedding.) Hannant’s Ivory jacquard strapless column gowns with winged train and his ivory Chantilly lace one-shoulder gown expressed influences from the 1930s, while being updated by Hannant’s incorporation of see-through diaphanous silhouettes.

Douglas Hannant fall bridal collection images courtesy of Ernest Green

There were several one-of-a-kind looks in this collection. Standouts being the white satin pleated tulle corseted strapless ball gown with lace borders and Hannant’s silver/white beaded embroidered tulle and taffeta sleeveless gown.

—William S. Gooch

Austin Scarlett Fall Bridal 2013

Though Austin Scarlett is closely associated with Project Runway—he appeared in the inaugural season of Project Runway and was a finalist on the Project Runway: All Stars edition—Scarlett’s design aesthetic goes way beyond anything viewers may have seen on the show. For his Bridal 2013 collection, Scarlett continued to demonstrate his penchant for classical elegance and a modern approach to vintage couture. Still, what was most evident in this collection, but absent from his appearances on Project Runway, was Scarlett’s attention to detail and his understanding of what a modern woman wants to wear, even if that garment will be worn only once and on one of the most important days of her life.

Scarlett looked to the sophistication and elegance of the 1950’s with a slight nod to Hollywood glamour for his Bridal 2013 collection. Sticking with what he does best, in this collection Scarlett conjured up one frothy, yet sophisticated bridal gown after the next.

Contrary to what was seen in various 2013 bridal collections, there was an absence of lace embellishments. However, Scarlett did stay on trend by incorporating one silk gazar trumpet gown with beaded tulle overlay and peplum. That said; the overriding theme of this outing was the floral motif that evidenced itself in floral and crystal beaded petal details, hand-painted floral designs, and tulip skirts.

Austin Scarlett Bridal 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in this collection was Scarlett’s strapless tulle ball gown with floral and crystal beaded petal detail and his silk lame V-neck gown with black tulle overlay.  And Scarlett’s pink silk organza and horsehair ball gown with bustier bodice and tiered ruffle skirt, which was the closing look, would be many young bride’s dream wedding gown, even if it was pink!!

—William S. Gooch

 

Renzo + Kai Spring/Summer 2013

While fashion is all about moving forward with the creation of innovative designs, once in a while a designer creates a collection that pays homage to the stylish trends of the past and teaches us that some things never go out of fashion. This is where the romantic designs of Renzo + Kai played a part this season with their starry-eyed, spring/summer 2013 presentation for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

The retro 1930s‒inspired collection embodied the romantic glamour of old Hollywood with sparkling sequins and soft feminine pastels mixed with vivid color blocking patterns. The silhouettes were figure flattering with a sophisticated glow reminiscent of the fashion icons that came before us.

Renzo + Kai spring/summer images courtesy of Craig Barritt of Getty Images

“We wanted to catch the 1930s magic… it was about falling in love,” said designer Mrinalini. This spring/summer collection pays homage to the vintage styling of the famous icons that made women swoon and gives a contemporary twist for the modern woman, making fashionistas fall in love with these timeless trends all over again.

—Dana E. Givens

 

 

Daisy Fuentes for Kohls Spring/Summer 2013

Images courtesy of Getty Images

While a significant amount fashionistas and fashion pundits at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week saw ready-to-wear collections that the average consumer would have to save up several weeks salary to purchase a few items, there was one budget friendly collection especially made for the everyday woman who want to be fashionable but doesn’t have deep pockets to shop and stay fashionable. Pop culture icon Daisy Fuentes teamed up with department store Kohl’s to present her latest venture, an affordable chic clothing line that won’t break the bank. The collection was inspired by a summer holiday in the South of Spain on the coast of Andalusia just miles away from Morocco where Fuentes connected with her Gypsy muse.

From this inspiration, a collection contrasting contemporary and classics prints and motifs came together to create exotic pattern work and folk-inspired embroideries filled with rich detail. The clothes were seductive but sophisticated appealing to Kohl’s wide array of shoppers that are looking for fashion on a budget. The allure of Fuentes spring/summer 2013 collection consisted of European charm mixed with an Old World romance that would be sure to spice up any summer wardrobe or vacation.

—Dana E. Givens

Czar by Cesar Galindo Spring/Summer 2013

In his first collection at Lincoln Center for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Cesar Galindo wanted to make an impact. And he did just that. Color was the name of the game for Houston native Cesar Galindo; and lots of color in a variety of shades and dimensions. But it wasn’t just color for the sake of color. Galindo stayed on trend by employing bold neon colors paired with the continuing trend of metallic fabrications.

For spring/summer 2013, Galindo dressed women for every jointure of their day. From easy, flowing maxi dresses to colorful shift dresses to cute short pants ensembles to silk print halter dresses and kimono-sleeved caftans, Galindo, inspired by 3-D technology, created a very wearable, retail friendly collection. He even threw in a black cocktail number for good measure.

With color palettes ranging from turquoise to chartreuse, tangerine, azure and melon, Galindo also incorporated the continuing trends of tribal prints, spring brocades and diaphanous fabrics.

Czar by Cesar Galindo spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Getty Images

Overall, this spring/summer 2013 collection was a win-win for Galindo with very few misses. And though Cesar Galindo has been in the industry for some time now, he is proving that with talent, perseverance, and hard work, hope does not only spring eternal, it can also spring success.

—William S. Gooch

Erin Barr Spring/Summer 2013

Photos courtesy by Highsnobette

Using sensual cutouts and texture contrasts, Erin Barr is setting a new fashion standard for the working woman in this spring/summer collection.

Keeping the looks very feminine with a lot of structure, Erin Barr seductively taps into feminine strength while maintaining a subtle sensuality.  Using a color palette that includes a rich, vampy red, and the neutrals of white and black, Barr’s tailored silhouettes appropriately showcase her design aesthetic. This collection is successful because Barr demonstrates that a working woman’s sense of fashion does not have to take a second seat to looking sophisticated and professional in the office or in corporate settings.

Photos courtesy by Highsnobette

 

The sheer fabric with tough leather gives a very woman-in-charge vibe, while form-fitting dresses give a touch of elegance. Zippered embellished tops complimented the embroidered skirts with added details such as pleats and leather block-outs. While printed stripes gave classic silhouettes a new fashion-forward approach. In this collection Erin Barr successfully confirms that sometimes less is more, and that simplicity, sophistication and edge do not have to be polar opposites.

Photos courtesy by Highsnobette

When looking professional, women don’t want to lose sight of their femininity with garments that are dour and fussy. Erin Barr has showed in this collection that it is possible to be feminine, strong, and beautiful all at the same time.

– Cory Orlando

Stephen Burrows Spring/Summer 2013

Stephen Burrows spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Ernest Green

Stephen Burrows usually shows the last day of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. And his shows are always refreshing denouement to a hectic week full of creative expressions from a variety of perspectives.

Like his clothes, Burrows’ presentations are always relaxed and easy. After forty years in the fashion industry, Burrows season after season still has the ability to create clothes that are youthful and full of charm.  And it is clear to see with Burrows’s spring/summer 2013 collection that he still loves what he is doing and having loads of fun.

Images courtesy of Stephen Burrows

As always with Stephen Burrows, there is the love affair with jersey. With color palettes ranging from turquoise, coral and cherry red to psychedelic prints of crazy kaleidoscopes and miasmas of feline spots, Burrows joyful collection was on trend with its bold explosion of neon colors and simple silhouettes.

This collection is ideal for women that want to celebrate their femininity as expressed through a kaleidoscope of easy, colorful,  bold images that are sophisticated, but still effervescent and fashion forward.

—William S. Gooch

Norisol Ferrari Spring/Summer 2013

“If you’ve got it, flaunt it,” says Mama Rose in the iconic musical Gypsy. There was a lot of flaunting on the runway during Norisol Ferrari spring/summer 2013 runway show, and flaunting in a good way by seasoned models that still have it, and know just how to flaunt it.

Using models who have decades of experiences is nothing new. Michael Bastian continues to use supermodel Tyson Beckford. Naomi Campbell made a surprise catwalk strut in Zac Posen’s spring/summer 2013 show. And a couple of seasons ago Carmen Dell’ Orefice, Pat Cleveland, Roshumba, Carole Alt, Irina Pantaeva, Frederique Van der Wal, and Nikki Taylor  participated in Adrienne Vittadini’s  presentation at Lincoln Center.

Norisol Ferrari continued the mtrend this season of mixing in well-seasoned models with fresher faces. Though the younger models did a commendable job, Carmen Dell’Orefice, Alva Chinn, Carole Alt, and Karen Bjornson stole the show.

But this collection was about more than iconic supermodels. In this outing, Ferrari conjured up the curvaceous silhouettes of silver screen sirens Rita Hayworth, Marilyn Monroe, and Rita Moreno.  Ferrari’s choice of looks for this collection ranged from palazzo pants to tight pencil skirts to fitted bodices that flared out to flowing skirts with embroidered embellishments.

Norisol Ferrari spring/summer 2013 images courtesy of Getty Images

Though Ferrari attempted to capture old Hollywood glamour in this collection, Ferrari managed most times to keep her point of view fresh and current. However, there were a few garments that bordered on kitsch. And unlike other collections this season, Ferrari chose to stay with a neutral palette.

Still, it was a joy to see Carmen Dell’Orefice, Alva Chinn, Karen Bjornson and Carole Alt working the runway, bringing back memories of when runway presentations evoked mood, charm and sometimes frothy frivolity.

—William S. Gooch

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