The Art Deco stylings of French furniture and interior designer Emile-Jacques Ruhlmann inspired a dynamically sophisticated fall/winter 2013 collection by Catherine Malandrino. Malandrino had said she wanted to focus on “clean and graphic shapes” for her fall collection. The result was a master class in detailing and design.
Ruhlmann’s work was known for its subtle plays with line detailing and gently curved shapes, whether it was a curved headboard, curved chair legs or a network of lines that graced the front of a cabinet. For Malandrino, that inspiration took the designer to dozens of variations of mostly black garments featuring cutouts, lace and embroidery.
The Ruhlmann chair leg became spindle-like cutouts arrayed around the neckline and at the waist of black tulle velvet embroidered dress. The trademark curves could be seen in stunning pieces like a sculpted arc of a mini-embroidered box pleat wool skirt and a funnel-necked black rubberized trench coat that would have anyone singing in the rain.
Images courtesy of Catherine Malandrino
The line play made for several racy pieces such as a perforated leather dress, a long sleeved jersey dress with a zig zag ribbon slash cut out of the front, and an expertly tailored black leather quilted jacket with a funnel neck collar. Even legwear was given the intricate design detail treatment with black wool guipure lace front fitted pants that teased the eye with tasteful, yet intriguing flashes of skin.
Burgundy and to a lesser extent ice blue also played an important role in the collection, but pieces repeated in the ice blue weren’t nearly as distinctive as those wrought in black or the burgundy. And a trio of evening gowns in tones of burgundy, midnight blue and absinthe, though reflecting the theme somewhat in their gentle cascading sashes and shoulder detail, seemed out of place after the exciting drama of the rest of the collection.
—Karyn D. Collins
Douglas Hannant has penned as the designer to the ladies who lunch. And though that may still be true, with his 2013 fall/winter collection Hannant expanded beyond that moniker to a more youthful demographic or that lady who lunches who wants a bit more edge.
With Hannant, elegance and sophistication are always dominant points of view, even if Great Gatsby frocks and East Hampton soirees seem to be a point of interest, as it was in his spring 2012 collection. However, in this outing Hannant is expanding his customer’s palette to looks beyond chic, elegant dresses to pieces that incorporate hard and soft and detailing that speaks to that customer who willing to take a risk.
Hannant’s black leather pea coat over black crepe pleated trouser speaks to that customer who is ready to up the ante, so to speak, and mix sophistication with fashion-forward edge. Although there was a lot of sheath dress silhouettes in the collection, Hannant added little flourishes and detailing that elevated this collection beyond beautiful sheaths. A simple sheath dressed with a gathered neckline and ruffled peplum is an example of those special little touches that makes this collection so special.
Inspired by a recent trip to Japan, and the work of photographer Daido Moriyama, Reem Acra found an ingenious way to combine her acumen for creating fashion-forward, luxury garments with traditional Japanese embroidery and fishnet. A lofty task indeed, in that fishnet can sometimes appear less than glamorous.
Compared to previous collections, Reem Acra expanded this season into more daywear looks. Still, her daywear is glamorous and definitely for that woman who wants a double take or wants to grab your attention. Though Reem Acra stayed mostly with a color palette of red white and black, this collection was dynamic and definitely red-carpet worthy.
A rebel with a colorful cause, Mara Hoffman, commonly known for her airy, embellished summer tunics and vivid swimwear brought her love of color to her fall/winter 2013 collection. A myriad of color flooded the runway to execute the brazen theme “Gypsies, Tramps & Thieves.” A vivid collection filled with intricately elaborate designs on unique yet feminine silhouettes.
Models ranged in various complexions from almond butter to rich cocoa, which aided in the representation of a collection that was both worldly and diverse. Hoffman’s traveling caravan theme made the intense head-to-toe print seem less jarring, however one would question its appeal off the runway. The unique traditional textiles originate from Turkey, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan, which provided the garments with an unimaginable kaleidoscope of color.
The collection was comprised of luscious capes, billowy maxi dresses, cardigans, shawls and intricately crafted sweaters and jackets in jacquard and leopard accents. There were a few standout moments in the sea of psychedelic prints, which included an electric quilted bomber.
Juxtaposing hard against soft, feminine against masculine, beauty against the not so beautiful are contradictions that the fashion community has readily embraced for decades. Polar opposites can give fashion designers the range and scope to explore limitless possibilities of fabrication, texture and expand images and conceptions of beauty.
Like seasons past, Dalmau masterfully attempted to combine disparate textures and color palettes, and this collection was no exception. In fact, in this outing the delicate balance of hard and soft, feminine and masculine that Custo Barcelona in past season has expertly facilitated at times went somewhat off-kilter. The mix of leather, alpaca, Aztec tribal influences and metallic fibers, all rolled into one was perhaps too much of a fashion smorgasbord of textures and influences to provide a cohesive direction that would expand the brand’s female demographic, and may even confuse some its loyal fans. Though many of the looks had great editorial value, overall, this collection had too many ideas and needed editing.
Where this collection was successful was in its menswear where the mix of fabrics and concepts actually worked. Dalmau produced several great suits and jackets that the hipster fashion guy would want in his wardrobe.
Season after season Ralph Rucci does not disappoint. And fall/winter 2013 was the first season that Ralph Rucci presented his fall/winter collection at Lincoln Center for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. In previous seasons, Lincoln Center audiences have been privileged to be mesmerized by Rucci’s vision funneled through his spring/summer collections. However, this season audiences bore witness to Rucci’s genius and great sense of style expressed through winter coats, jackets, garments that utilized a variety of fabrics and Rucci’s unique perspective on layering.
In previous outings, Rucci’s collections have been a continuous, focused compendium on his unparalleled ability to assemble different influences and make those points of view uniquely Ralph Rucci. Unfortunately, in this collection there was an uncharacteristic small, out-of-focus dip in what is usually a clear, concentrated point of view. For about eight looks, Rucci inserted a few garments, though beautifully designed, that seemed a bit dated and were in a color palette that would not appeal to a wider demographic. Still, for most of the collection, Rucci’s point of view was classic, sophisticated and plush, while pointedly current and fashion-forward, subtly employing current trends that do not overwhelm his point of view, but expand Rucci’s specific perspective for each collection.
In this collection, Rucci continued to find that synergy between modernism, classic pieces, and garment that can also satisfy the palette of consumers who want fashion-as-art. We also got to see Rucci’s particular approach to layering this season, evidenced in Rucci’s fascination with slacks overlaid with transparent dresses. And as with other designers this season, Rucci employed the trend of cutouts in some interesting ways.
The genius in this fall/winter collection is that Rucci takes his customer on a journey. And this season the journey goes from the classic, sophisticated pieces that his loyal following has to come to expect to introducing them to new innovative textile and technologies—the voluminous cashmere neoprene coat, and a black shag coat of synthetic hair and mylar—to Rucci’s trajectory of where fashion is heading. Fashion is always now and next, and for Rucci next is the synthesis of haute couture, innovative textiles and combination of fashion as futuristic art.
Emerson creative director Jackie-Fraser Brown brought out another round of fashionable, trend-setting looks to the runway this season. Inspired by the fantasy of an enchanting post-apocalyptic world, the 90s‒inspired collection was filled with plaid patterns and silk chiffon prints. There was a lot of leather used for this collection from rebellious bomber jackets, chic vests, and chic accents on striking dresses.
Opulent and sophisticated would best describe the designs of South African designer David Tlale. The fall 2013 presentation was beautifully designed with ready-to-wear pieces that were beautifully constructed. The traditional pencil skirt was revamped in a high waist design with intricate gold embroidered panels that added an elegant touch.
Tlale showed expert craftsmanship with asymmetrical coats and cropped jackets with sharp shoulders that created powerful silhouettes. One of the many stand-out looks included an ivory brocade coat with a stunning asymmetric collar and harem pants. The collection consisted of a rich color palette of gold, brown, ivory, and red, which worked together to create a collection that was both chic and luxurious.
Christian Siriano looked to the ornate interior of the St. Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatere for inspiration for his 2013 fall/winter collection. Always one to tap into opulence and gilded glory, Siriano’s choice of a night at the Russian opera was a good one, and this choice fits handsomely into Siriano predilection and abilities to create collections that go beyond the standard retail trap that far too many American designers have fallen into as they desperately water down their creative oeuvre for the American consumer who is afraid to take fashion risks.
“My Autumn/Winter 2013 collection is inspired by the golden age of the Russian Opera. The lavish interiors of Saint Petersburg’s Mariinsky Theatre inspired me to work on this glamorous and opulent collection, rich with sophisticated shapes, gilded and embossed fabrications, deep jewel-toned colors,” detailed Siriano.
Granted not every piece is this collection was a surefire hit; however, Siriano had far more successes than misses; if there were any real misfires. Siriano chose to stay mostly in the color palette of black, imperial gold and sundry variations on goldleaf. What really elevated this collection to fashion-as-art status was Siriano’s formalwear which combined metallic fabrications with exquisite incarnations of silk chiffon, tulle, and organza.
The dramatic collection was comprised of long gowns, cocktail dresses, skirts and black pants that could be perfect for any formal fall occasion. Deep jewel tones also reigned supreme with a strong focus on embellished accents and plunging back designs. While impressive crystal accent pieces dazzled delicately against iridescent fabric, it was the lavish furs in black, white and brown that provided the perfect dose of elegance to extravagant textiles.
