For spring 2014 Amsale Aberra conjured up images of Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday, Funny Face and the cult classic Breakfast at Tiffany’s for her eponymous brand, Amsale. Staying true to the DNA of the brand, this collection epitomized the essence of the Amsale aesthetic, simple American chic funneled through a prism of clean lines and sophisticated elegance.
This season Amsale’s column silhouette forwarded the quintessentially simple elegance of the brand. The structured bodices that could flare out to an explosion of silk organza or softly cascade into an expression of silk magnolia demonstrated the construction acumen of Amsale. And the added trains of tulle or structured silk magnolia added restrained volume.
Amsale spring 2014 images courtesy of Ernest Green
Amsale also stays on trend with an exquisite bateau neckline faille de soie fit to flare gown. Standouts in this collection was Amsale’s silk magnolia fit to flare gown with self belt and straps, the silk magnolia fit to flare gown with beaded straps, the lace column gown with cascading organza train, and finally the lace and silk gazar column gown with watteau train.
—William S. Gooch
Amsale Aberra certainly has her hands full during New York International Bridal Week. She designs for three bridal brands, Kenneth Pool, Christos, and her eponymous brand, Amsale. And each brand has its distinct point of view and consumer base.
For spring 2014, designer Amsale Aberra looked to grandiose luxury for the Kenneth Pool Bridal Collection. This collection was distinguished by its emphasis on fitted, exaggerated dropped-waist silhouettes that flared out to voluminous tulle skirts.
Whether you are wearing their evening wear or you are a budding bride, when women wear Theia, they can rest assured that they will radiant beauty, light and glamour. “The whole idea of Theia is the Greek goddess of light and bringing out a woman’s inner elegance. And we bring that right through to the bridal collection where the dresses are so well made that when a women wears one our garments she feels that transformation to elegance and beauty. A part of the elegance is our use of exquisite fabrics and we are always looking for novelty and technically beautiful fabrics which we used in our spring 2014 bridal collection,” explains Theia designer Don O’Neil.
For fall 2014, O’Neil looked to the first blush of romance combined with the majesty and opulence of Versailles. “When you first fall in love or get engaged there is a rush of excitement that is expressed with a fleshy glow. That same glow is on the face of the bride as she is walking down the aisle. I wanted to express that blush or sentiment in the spring 2014 collection,” details O’Neil. “This collection has subtle touches of blush and sometime a more obvious infusion of blush.”
It’s no secret that designer Diane von Furstenberg is at something of a crossroads with her business these days. For the first time in several years, her eponymous line is without a creative director after the sudden departure in September of Yvan Mispelaere.
And why not? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it?
Season after season, while others play with dressing up women in their takes on their favorite persona or try to wring inspiration from walks in the woods or an idyllic stroll through an art gallery, Michael Kors finds ways to create clothes that relate the way real women want to dress.
Kitschy city color references aside, the collection was infused with energy. Some creations riffed on scuba suits with a contoured look complete with rounded shoulders. A number of tops—for women as well as the men— had the ease and vibrant energy of athletic gear with easy cuts through the shoulders. Accents of black leather strips and patent leather seaming added to the raciness.
Even when Kors dipped into the 40s for inspiration with off the shoulder suit jackets and pencil skirts, he found a way to give things an edge, whether with a few cleverly placed black zippers, or strategically placed leather trim.
Falguni & Shane Peacock known for producing high-fashion, rock n’ roll clothes in intricate designs continued their fashion trajectory of creating cutting-edge of fashion for that risk-taking fashionista. Their futuristic designs are bold, edgy and often provocative, which are perfect for any editorial spread or stage performance.
For other designers a glittering gown would be final look, however for Falguni and Shane Peacock, it’s a staple piece in their fantasy world of frothy rock n’ roll. This season the dynamic duo created beautifully beaded gowns that were made unique by the addition of metal breast plates and metallic and leather chokers. Surprisingly the metal hardware, which was also showcased as peplum belts, complemented each piece perfectly.
Undeniably the collection isn’t for the modest woman; the sleek and sexy designs were dark with a dominatrix undertone. The contrasting quality textile worked in harmony to complement the constructions of the pieces. Leather, lace and feathers were on display in richly dark hues like jade, plum, burgundy, metallic and black, which was seen in various gowns, pants and body-con dresses.
An eclectic mix of punk rock, pop culture, and political influences were apart of the concept for Vivienne Tam’s fall/winter 2013 collection. With a runway show that paralleled the start of the Chinese New Year, Tam was inspired by current events and channeled her inspirations into a vivacious, fall collection, which showcased vivid and bold political statements. From shirts riddled with Obama caricatures, strapless gowns with printed bar codes, to a one-shoulder dress screened with a letter to Chairman Mao; Tam’s latest collection features a strong political message over a strikingly stylish high-end ready-to-wear collection. The rebellious attitude of the punk movement can be seen throughout the collection with edgy leather jackets and biker boots over a dark red, black, and white color palette. “I was inspired by the conceptual underpinnings of the punk movement questioning the status quo,” says Tam.
Tracy Reese is known for a certain brand of pretty–city smart with plenty of pops of bright color, but always sophisticated. The Reese woman may be headed to the office or to a swanky soiree, but she still loves mixing things up and showing a confidence with her fashion.
Prints, a staple of the Reese aesthetic, played a major role in this latest collection, especially animal prints. Cheetah, zebra—sometimes combined with ocelot, and a mélange described as an animal jacquard, all promised to make women purr. Of course, since this is Tracy Reese, there was almost always a little something extra added to the mix that took the animal print from typical to terrific.
Motorcycle-styled jackets also provided plenty of power including a clever praline and black contrast jacket done in double face wool, and another in hot pink leather that elicited more than a few happy exclamations from those in the audience.
