Who would’ve imagined that rockabilly combined with ‘Rebel Without Case’ 50s fashion and a Punk aesthetic from the late 70s could produce a collection that is fun, yet fashion forward? Hache thought about it, executed it, and positive notices are in!!
Creative director Manuela Arcari combined all these fashion points of view and created a collection that though it references particular eras is still fresh, modern and fashionably viable. Arcari followed the popular trend of layering this season. This layering trend could have been disastrous for this collection; imagine 70s Punk with 50s Rockabilly. However, Arcari understood that these influences were just reference points and allowed her strong modern perspective on her customer’s needs and wants produce edgy garments that are now with a hint of next.
Distressed studded leather jackets, whether cropped or three quarter paired with cropped tops, exposed midriffs and 50s frock dresses produced a modern distillation on texture, length and fabrics that are trans-seasonal. And Arcari’s fashion-conscious customer will appreciate the combination of baggy, long shorts that hang low mixed with studded, thin micro belts and 50s–styled modest tops.
Images courtesy of wwd.com
The point of view that stands out most in this collection is the exquisite layering. Standouts in the collection are Arcari’s studded, red, three quarter coat combined with a grey crop top and knee-length skirt and denim baggy pans with stripped popline top with studded micro belt.
—William S. Gooch
For spring 2014 Dominic Louis looked to texture and shape expressed through the prism of beautiful symmetry that is restrained at times and erratic on occasion. Since 2013 Dominic Louis has set a standard for himself at being a master in construction and for having acumen at working in asymmetrical shapes and interesting combinations of fabrics.
Like many designers this season, Louis stayed with a mostly neutral palette with the exception of some beautiful custom prints in collaboration with street artist WHISBE. These collaboration combined WHISBE’s street art mentality with Louis’ penchant for a whimsical high-fashion aesthetic, resulting an interesting synthesis of hard ands soft.
Standouts in this collection was Louis’ structured tops with full skirts that spoke to a 50s aesthetic, digital-print crop top with navy shorts layered over with diaphanous organza sarong skirt, and asymmetrical white wrap dress with plunging neckline. Though some of the more constructed pieces were interesting stretch for Louis, some of the potential beauty of these garments was lost in the fit and style.
Surf’s up but the Peter Som spring 2014 collection proved that riding the waves doesn’t mean you have to leave your chicness in the sand. Som’s collection was all about, as his show notes put it, “Surf style below 14th Street.” And yes, the athletic beach babe has been a recurring theme for the fashion crowd for a couple of seasons now making neoprene the hot new go-to fabric on the catwalk.
But in Som’s hands that vibe never grew stale thanks to some clever fabric combinations and his trademark eye for knowing how much is enough. So yes there were neoprene separates, all tailored to perfect sleekness. There was also a fun wave print in royal, black and white that hit just the right amount of fun without becoming kitschy thanks to its use on the right pieces—a tuxedo coat and in one case a neoprene and lacquered eyelet sweatshirt. The lacquered eyelet also played a central role throughout the collection.
Can technologically forward fashion and pretty co-exist? The answer is a resounding “yes” in the hands and creative eye of designer Prabal Gurung and the ICB line for Onward Kashiyama, for which Gurung serves as creative director.
For spring/summer 2014, Gurung produced a collection that is the perfect marriage of street and ladylike chic. The opening looks, all white, were a small parade of minimalist staples—clean-lined crop tops, pegged trousers, oversized jackets and the cocoon shaped dress. The white sneakers worn by some of the models (a popular footwear choice for several designers, we might add), emphasized the youthful athleticism of the collection overall. Oversize pieces dominated here, but Gurung knows how to give clothes shape, a key to avoiding clothes that look sloppy or careless.
Betsey Johnson is back!! With what some fashion pundits considered last season a fashion experiment gone wrong, industry professionals anxiously anticipated Johnson’s spring 2014 collection. And they were not disappointed.
Back was the Betsey Johnson we all love, cartwheels and all!! Back was the girly, frolicky, fun frocks. Back was the mix of the tried-and-true paired with current trends. And lastly, back was the party!! What is a Betsey Johnson show without great dance music and a party crowd!! In other words Betsey knows how to put on a show.
Still, there was some good fashion in the mix of frolicky fun and sass. Though Johnson’s spring 2014 collection looked like glance back to the 1980s, particularly when she used music from 80s cult classic “Pretty in Pink,” there were a few contemporary twists evidenced in the exposed midriffs, cropped moto jackets, and front-and-center, half-tiered ruffle dresses. However, the metallic belts and low-hanging bling necklaces gave a nod to the hip-hop of the late 80s with a slight nod to early 80s retro Punk.
Johnson brought back her all-time favorite voluminous tulle skirts, tight bodysuits, and penchant for leopard print in a lot of variations. Betsey’s floral prints were also a nice addition to the collection, particularly in the opening girly frock. And as always with Betsey what makes her collection and show still viable is that effervescent, infectious joy that translates from the clothes to the runway.
Mathieu Mirano’s technical acumen is obvious. Over the past couple of seasons, Mirano has demonstrated that he is adept at manipulating fabric to suit his point of view and finding that delicate synthesis between hard and soft. Like many young designers, Mirano likes to mix fabrics—tulle, and chiffon with feathers, leather with lace, velvet with organza. And in previous collections Mirano has had a fascination with mixing traditional fabrics with macabre embellishments—reptile vertebrae and the sundry.
Mirano incorporates some trends from past seasons, but in new and interesting combinations. Lace paired with metallic hardware accessories, the exotic skins of python and alligator and metallic bustiers paired with high-waisted slacks highlight Mirano’s innovative way of mixing fabrications and trends. Also, Mirano combines peek-a-boo diaphanous fabrics with lace and feathers in ways that are both sensuous and fashion forward without being vulgar.
Picture yourself lost amongst a sea of fresh blossoms. A fashion affair set in a beautiful garden filled with the industry’s best dressed in eclectic punk designs worthy of a rock n’ roll concert. Don’t have anything to wear? Emerson by Jackie Frasier-Swan has you covered with stunning looks to will make a bold statement from her spring 2014 collection.
“My inspiration was the idea of a punk rock garden party,” says designer Jackie Fraser-Swan. And the worlds of rock-n-roll juxtaposed against fragrant flowers helped to create a stunning collection with pieces that captures the synthesis of a floral garden and the seeming disorder of rock n’ roll. But Fraser-Swan was able to find the order in the disorder of these unlikely bedfellows.
Nanette Lepore gave herself a challenge for her spring 2014 collection. She wanted to redefine romanticism. Her spring 2014 showed how successful Lepore has been in meeting that challenge.
One of the themes for this season overall was a return to the slip dress, a ‘90s phenomenon, this time shown frequently with ruffles along or across the body. To be certain, this collection was about more than a slip dress. But some of the best looks featured Lepore’s reworking of the slip dress.
For spring 2014, creative director Sophia Sizzi was inspired by a nocturnal walk through a sea of white dandelions that was also paired with Sizzi love of geometric architecture, particularly the shadow of Florence’s 15th century architectural wonder, the Duomo. “This collection was about a nocturnal wandering around a sleeping city. And this woman as she walks through the fields picks up this blowing dandelion flower which falls and lingers on her classic black Giulietta dress. There is also the graphic package that was inspired by Italian architecture, churches in Florence, particularly the Duomo. By leaning against this architecture, this woman gets the projections of the graphic geometric shapes and that is how all these graphic pieces were inspired,” explains Sophia Sizzi.
By mixing the harlequinesque-like graphics with Sizzi’s ingenious way of using pleats, Sizzi elevated some of the classic 60s silhouettes in this collection to a modern interpretation that a variety of women would like to have in their wardrobe. The optical graphics paired with Sizzi’s pleating placed Giulietta in a class by itself, expanding a trend that lots of designer’s are employing this season, but keeping Sizzi’s perspective entirely and uniquely her own.
Color palettes ranged from passion red to a grey-blue stone to neutrals of black, white and nude. “We also have this beautiful passion red because it is a romantic color that is very dear to me, but also this season we had the idea of a beautiful nude skin color because it accentuated the black against the skin. And lastly, we have this beautiful blue color that come from some of the stones found in Florence.”
They say the beaches of Malibu boast some of the most beautiful scenic views of the Pacific Coast. Just picture it now, a beautiful sandy paradise to relax and unwind under the sun. It sounds like a dream come true.
