RIVINI by Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads33There’s an undeniable serenity about the coastal paradise of Venice. The Italian gem is a hub for the international, jet setting elite who wants to bask in the refined elegance and harmonious allure of the city. The stylish sophistication of Venice was the inspiration for Rita Vinieris’ bridal brand, RIVINI fall 2014 collection.

On the heels of New York Fashion Week where Vinieris presented a successful high-end, ready-to-wear capsule collection based on lingerie, Vinieris for fall 2014 Bridal Week captured the essence of the blushing bride who wants classic elegance funneled through a prism of fashion-forward sensibility.

Collages145“My inspiration [was] the tranquil mystery of Venice. The beautiful harmony of the gentle gothic architecture reflecting on the shimmering waters,” described Vinieris.

Exquisite detailing could be seen across the gorgeous gowns decorated in fine Italian silk and French lace with names like Donatella, Sofia, Stefania, and Giovanna for each of the nineteen looks. Plunging necklines, peplum accents, and glistening crystals were among some of the detailing and embellishments in this collection that is placing Rita Visnieris in the constellation of bridal designers which industry insiders anxiously anticipate season after season.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection was the strapless wide-leg jumpsuit, paired with an intricately embroidered tunic overlay, sweetheart-flared Italian silk satin gown with delicate waves of crystals from cap sleeves and back, and modern fit and flare lace gown accented with corded French lace appliques.

—Dana E. Givens

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads32Ines Di Santo has always created her couture collection for that elegant woman who wants other worldly glamour expressed through dramatic silhouettes. For fall 2014 Di Santo looked to the mythical city of Atlantis to funnel her vision of otherworldly allure.

Collages141Known for her signature mermaid silhouettes, this season Di Santo successfully paired these silhouettes with the city of Altlantis’ underwater theme that matched the buoyant quality of many of the gowns. Still, mermaid silhouettes were not the only looks in this outing, there were the traditional lace and sequined column gowns, fit-to-flare looks, as well as a couple of shorter cocktail looks with extended trains.

This season Di Santo explored Art Deco beading and architectural mohair that added texture and dimension. Di Santo also incorporated lingerie-inspired bodices to a few looks, which though slightly kittenish, added just that extra hint of sensuality that would appeal to a customer who wants glamour with a gentle touch of come hither.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Though Di Santo introduced a lavender hue to her fall 2014 collection, she mostly stayed with her signature palette of champagne, blush and cameo pink.  And the additional embellishments of crystals, beading, sequins, and feathers mostly enhanced the allure and regality of this collection. At times there were too many ideas, but Di Santo for the most part balanced her vision of otherworldly elegance with fashion-forward sensibility.

—William S. Gooch

Romona Kevaza Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads35For New York International Fashion Week fall 2014, Romona Kevaza presented three collections. Kevaza’s ready-to-wear, red carpet collection was distinguished by bold colors, sleek, streamlined construction and metallic hardware.  Having dressed Angelina Jolie and Guiliana Rancic on the red carpet, Kevaza’s fall 2014 red carpet collection is in step with an aesthetic that the brand has become known for. Standouts in this collection were Kevaza’s gold Duchess satin fit-and-flare gown with metallic gold belt and gown with gold metallic bodice and belt with navy blue chiffon skirt.

Downloads34Legends by Romona Kevaza, traditional bridal gowns, were a combination of sweetheart ball gowns with lace embellishments and crystal-studded belts, as well as mermaid gowns and fit-and-flare gowns with sequins and Alencon lace. Standouts in the collection were the Duchess satin, ruched fit-and-flare gown and the fit-and-flare gown Duchess satin with asymmetrical lace bodice.

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Images courtesy of Ernest Green

The Romona Kevaza Collection was highlighted by intricate lace embellishment and beading. In this collection Romona Kevaza was inspired by the timeless beauty of Grace Kelly. Standouts were Kevaza’s lace embellished column gown with innovative neck shrug and princess gown with intricate lace overlay and sequin and beaded belt.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Kelly Faetanini Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads31For fall 2014 Kelly Faetanini looked to the heavens and the bliss that can be found in celestial glory.  While in previous collections, Faetanini sought to evoke romance and a frothy sensuality, in this outing Faetanini’s aesthetic took an upward direction, literally, evoking dreamy effervescence and an angelic airiness.

Collages137Though this collection was a celestial projection of lightness and fantasy, there was still a lot of craftsmanship and detailed construction, a combination that Faetanini is beginning to be known for. Faetanini attention to detail and craftsmanship was most evident in the Mikado trumpet gown with sculptural bodice seaming and skirt godets, as well as the fit to flare Chantilly lace gown with godet skirt and asymmetrical re-embroidered beaded appliques.

Collages138Faetanini stuck with classical silhouettes in this collection from fit-to-flare gowns to the traditional silk organza ball gowns. Still, though collection was fashion-forward evidenced in two looks that incorporated rose ombre and the asymmetrical cuts, and raw-edged trim in some other looks.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

The Faetanini bride may like classical construction with the traditional fabrications of Chantilly lace, Alencon lace, organza and tulle. Still, she is fashion forward with a penchant for interesting bridal color combinations and innovative techniques that elevate her gown beyond traditional fare. And Faetanini is tapping into the marketing, understanding that consumer who wants a combination of the tried and true paired with where innovative bridal design is going.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Vera Wang Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads41 Who would have imagined that the classic scene from “Funny Face” where Barbra Streisand and Omar Sharif have their first intimate encounter would serve as the inspiration for Vera Wang’s Bridal fall 2014 collection. Well, it did!! And it was a successful reference, as well as references from the iconic film “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes.”

With shades of pink as the color palette for this collection, Vera Wang elevated fall bridal wear from just another dissertation on shades of white in traditional silhouettes. And Wang distilled her pink palette from carnation and fuchsia to peony and coral.

Wang’s bridal sugar confections came in a variety of silhouettes from fit-and-flare to column dresses to variations on mermaid gowns. And in this outing Wang incorporated large floral appliques, ruching, intricate beading and layers of tulle, organza and netting.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Overall, this departure from traditional white was an overwhelming success for Wang, causing consumers to rethink the bridal color palette. Remember, not until Queen Victoria wore a lace white gown was white even considered an appropriate color for wedding nuptials. And after a century or more of white maybe the time has come for change.

—William S. Gooch

Theia Bridal Fall 2014

Downloads30Named after the Greek goddess of light, Theia, the bridal brand is known for its clean, linear, yet feminine silhouettes funneled through a prism of luminescent beauty that allows a woman’s inner goddess to shine through. This season creative director Don O’Neill looked to expand the Theia aesthetic as seen through a patina of gold, or the “Midas Touch.”

“Theia, the Greek goddess of light, was also responsible for giving metals their luminescent shine.  So, she predates King Midas in Greek mythology. Her gift allowed King Midas to have his golden touch, so to speak,” explains O’Neill.  “This collection is about gold being our new approach to light. We are giving the bride light and luminescence, but through a golden arch.”

Collages132True to form this collection was soft and glowing, but with that added touch of wintry textures and connotations. Lace embroidery embellished with crystals and pearls resembled icy snowflake configurations, satin petal embellishments conjured up images of gentle falling snow, and column silhouettes reflect wintry icicle shapes.

“When I have a theme in my head, I see everything through that theme. Because I was thinking of winter that is the reason we have a cape and some shoulder shrugs in the collection. I was thinking of winter in a very soft way, not the harshness of winter months.  Think of an early winter snowfall when everything is soft and delicate. So with our lace in this collection everything is light. We connected the cotton Gulpare back to snow but in a winter wonderland kind of way;” details O’Neill.

Collages133Though there is an emphasis on early winter in this collection, O’Neill did expand to late winter expressed in the somewhat heavy gold brocades in some of the looks. O’Neill elaborates, “anything that Midas touched became weightier because he turned everything into gold solid metal, so we also wanted that counterbalance in the collection with the Snow Queen meeting King Midas. You will see that juxtaposition in the softness of winter expressed in our Chantilly lace and silk snow petal embellishments meeting the heavier gold brocades.”

Collages134Still, the Midas inspiration was also evident in in hand-painted gold Murano glass beads that encircled bodices and gold lame and golden sequins that were detailed throughout several of the gowns. Looks that showcased O’Neill’s gold reference best was the ivory Duchess Satin ball gown with gold filigree lace bodice and pearl and Murano glass embroidery, the gold brocade backless ball gown with hand embroidered crystal belt, and the gold hand-embroidered mitered sequin and crystal gown. Other standouts in the collection were O’Neill’s sequined and hand-embroidered sweatshirt with silver lame trouser, and the ivory satin petal halter gown with hand-embroidered petal veil.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

With this collection, O’Neill demonstrates that though traditional silhouettes and white palettes are still the order of the day, some women are looking at other alternatives to the traditional white wedding gown. “The woman that I dress is confident and wants to be comfortable. She is not necessarily interested in sticking to the traditional white gown; she is just being true to herself.  So if she wants to wear a gold gown, she wears it because she wants to and is comfortable in it. Prior to Queen Victoria, women did not wear white on their wedding day, but it has become a tradition that we’ve stuck to. But there are women who are breaking away from that, and what we are doing in this collection is giving women that option.”

So, there you have it!! Now, is the gold lame tuxedo for the groom, next? Hmm, let’s rethink that one.

—William S. Gooch

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Backstage

Collages110Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week spring 2014 is over, as well as fashion weeks in London, Milan, and Paris, memories still linger. We all love the way the collections look on the runway, and the way each model brings that extra something that makes us look at silhouettes, construction, fabrications and the designer’s point of view in new ways. Still, it is not all sparkle and shine.

In Fashion Reverie’s unique way of presenting texture, nuance and a broader spectrum of perspectives and with the assistance of our photo editor, Ernest Green, we demonstrate that Fashion Week is a collaborative effort. Putting a runway show together is a lot of hard work and without the collaborative efforts of makeup artists, dressers, the ground crew, PR firms, the technical crew, and the models and designers themselves, the stunning presentations that we hold near and dear to our hearts would not happen.

Raleigh Denim Spring 2014 Backstage

Though the brand has extended beyond denim, their brand of denim has never looked so good.

Though the brand has extended beyond denim, their brand of denim has never looked so good.

Nicholas K Spring 2014 Backstage

Nicholas K is the first show of MBFW spring 2014 and the models are mostly just beginning a week of hair pulled, twisted and primed into all kinds of interesting configurations.

Nicholas K is the first show of MBFW and the models are just beginning a week of hair pulled, twisted and primed into all kinds of interesting configurations. Hang on kids, its going to be a lot of hair pulling!!

 

Nicholas K Spring 2014 Backstage

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Kenneth Cole Spring 2014 Backstage

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Diversity rules with Kenneth Cole.

 

Steve Alan Spring 2014 Backstage

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With Kenneth Cole it all about the face. And guys will make passes at this model who wears glasses!!

Malan Breton Spring 2014 Backstage

OK, I've got a secret. These images are not from MBFW, but taken three weeks later at the Taiwan Museum's cultural celebration. But hey, Malan Breton's collection is still slammin!!

OK, I’ve got a secret. These images are not from MBFW, but taken three weeks later at the Taiwan Museum’s cultural celebration. But hey, Malan Breton’s collection is still slammin!!

—Staff

Falguni and Shane Peacock Spring 2014

Fashion_Reverie8Only a few designers can mix metallics, floral embellishments, cutouts, feathers, chain mail bodices, graphics and intricate beading in a collection and produce fashion art. For spring 2014 Falguni and Shane Peacock achieved just that, works of fashion art.

Known for their ability to mix fabrics and disparate points of view, for several seasons Falguni and Shane Peacock have solidly been a part of the small cabine of fashion designers that pop musicians and edgy celebrities flock to for garments that are attention grabbing or fit into their on-stage personas. This season the design duo expanded beyond stage costumes and red-carpet wow moments. There was always the possibility and potential of the evolution of the brand beyond its established oeuvre, in fact, it was just a matter of time. Well, the appointed time was their spring 2014 collection.

Collages86Falguni and Shane Peacock’s innovative miasma was as schizophrenic as ever, yet within this assemblage of seemingly frenzied disorder there was lots of craftsmanship and a cohesive point of view. One could suggest that order blossomed out of the disorder. Not every garment was a hit, but overall this collection demonstrated Falguni and Shane Peacock’s range but establishes the brand as a one of the leaders of edgy clothes whose aesthetic could extend beyond fashion risk-takers and celebrities.

Collages85Standouts in this collection was the graphic print sleeveless mini with sheer overlay and convertible zip hem paired with golden metal and neoprene leg harnesses, red and gunmetal embellished chain metal mini dress featuring feathers and beading, long-sleeve, floor-length feathered gown with metallic detail bodice, and lastly the bodycon dress with asymmetrical hem, metallic gold detail and black mesh. Falguni and Shane Peacock’s metal leg harnesses were special touch that elevated this already spectacular to the next level.

Images courtesy of future claw.com

Images courtesy of future claw.com

Falguni and Shane Peacock’s spring 2014 collection demonstrates that this design duo has real handle on now and next. And isn’t that what fashion is supposed to be about?

—William S. Gooch

Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2014

Collages35This is what the cool kids will be wearing next spring and summer. The Marc by Marc Jacobs is always a barometer for a certain brand of cool—you know, the kids who used to be the ones at the popular kids table in school but have grown up enough to be able to drink legally. These clothes are for them, and the rest of the class who kind of always wanted to be them. And being one of the cool kids is a good thing when you have clothes like this.

Jacobs put a big focus on suits—pantsuits for men and women and for the women—jumpsuits and even playsuits, too. Yes, these are not your mother or father’s idea of a suit and that’s the point really. These are fun clothes with a tongue-in-cheek wink at convention.

Collages34You want me to dress my age and wear a suit? Well how about if I wear a cotton candy pink satin one to go clubbing in? And yes, there are his and hers versions of said cotton candy pink satin suit. Don’t like that one? Well how about a satin jumpsuit with a big tie that’s part of the bodice design. Is that formal enough for you?

Downloads5The satin also found its way into other designs on tops, jackets and trousers sometimes in designs reminiscent of iconic looks like a jockey’s silks, a cheerleader dress and a classic Varsity jacket festooned with MJ emblems of course.

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Images courtesy of style.com

Speaking of satin, this is a season to shine in the Marc by Marc Jacobs world. Literally. Satin shimmered, sequins twinkled with star appliqués (get it?), metallics glistened, and a snazzy iridescent watermelon leather dazzled in a skirt as well as a coat.

Can you hear me now?

—Karyn D. Collins

Zang Toi Spring 2014

Zang_Toi_Spring_2014_01Zang Toi has always been known for his craftsmanship and theatrical catwalk that appeals to a client base consisting of international jetsetters, well-heeled fashion mavens and red-carpet regulars. For his spring 2014 collection during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, the Malaysian-born designer took the fashion elite to a night at the ballet with dazzling looks inspired by a whimsical love story played out through dance. “I wanted to take the very elegant line, and very graceful line of ballet to translate into the collection,” says Toi about his inspiration from the dance artform.

The runway show opened with an enchanting performance by American Ballet Theatre principal dancer Cory Stearns who is Toi’s longtime muse and walks in many of his shows. Stearns graceful performed a brief ballet variation that lead right into Toi’s ballet-themed collection.

Zang_Toi_Spring_2014_02The stylish pieces resembled a beautiful, dark, twisted fantasy that Zang Toi married with ballet-inspired gowns with tulle peeking out, resembling a ballerina’s tutu. The color palette consisted of navy, baby blue, soft pink, and midnight black for a mysterious yet trendy tone for his affluent patrons. Detailed, handcrafted floral embroidery and ribbon sequin accents was a reoccurring trend juxtaposed against silk and cashmere for a truly opulent fashion statement.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Zang Toi is one of the few MBFW designers that’s lauded with a standing ovation at the end of his runway presentations. And season after season he proves that the appreciation of his work is not just for the beauty he has brought to fashion in the past, but for the continued, arduous evolution of his aesthetic!!

—Dana E. Givens

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