Womenswear — Page 54

Peter Som Spring 2015

September 9, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

Can good sportswear be both artistic and practical?

Designer Peter Som says finding the balance between those two sensibilities was the driving force behind his spring 2015 collection.

On the practical side, Som provided his ladies with practical solutions, basics with a Som twist. The best of these included an off-white PVC Macintosh, a striped cady double-breasted blazer, and some terrific tailored marine stripe trousers. The classic white shirt was given a carefree twist with a cascade back that billowed with powerful purposefulness as it went down the runway.

The artistic side was reflected in a series of pieces done in a pop art flavored print that looked initially like abstract swirls but, on closer inspection was actually a rose print. And Som inflected even the most mundane items with a bit of flair—tee shirts in python and snake, for example, making the mundane anything but.

The color palette also signaled Som’s mix of practical and the artistic, moving from a military olive green for his urban warrior women to a more lighthearted stripe such as Som’s multi pop stripe cady double breasted blazer, worn with a different stripe cady tunic. The multi pop stripe also showed up in a striking cotton tweed double-breasted coat dress and even in a gown perfect for going from daytime to nighttime.

Som also worked with crisp combinations of black and white and brought a true flair of urban sophistication with a series of black pieces including a black crosshatch eyelet appliqué tee shirt and skirt and a black and white shadow floral sundress that also incorporated the black crosshatch eyelet.

Finally, Som interjected a surprise shot of va va voom with gold lame used in a flutter dress and then a double-breasted blazer and romper. And occasional bursts of lipstick and red further guaranteed that the Som girl still has a playful side.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

There were a few misfires here and there, particularly Som’s odd aprons, worn over dresses and tunics. But even with this example of utilitarian chic gone wrong Som’s spring 2015 collection still had plenty of other moments that were perfectly right for the season.

—Karyn D. Collins

Nicole Miller Spring 2015

September 8, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

Nicole Miller is sending her ladies flying down to Rio for next spring.

Using the 1933 film “Flying Down To Rio” and the Peter Allen song “Go To Rio” as inspiration, Miller turned her eye for translating themes into a collection that was sexy, fun and full of tropical heat. But fear not, Miller fans.

These are looks that tantalize with a wink but never scream. Miller knows that there’s a difference between clothes that make a woman feel sexy and clothes that make a woman feel overexposed. It’s called taste.

One of the best looks of the collection was the first dress down the runway—a crepe, ruffle hem dress with a crisscross front done in the signature print for the spring collection—a print of lush tropical green enlivened with splashes of orange (one of the color themes across the board of the season, by the way). This was the epitome of Miller’s sensibility—a little bit of heat thanks to a triangle of exposed midriff in the front and a flash of the gams courtesy of the fun but not too fluffy ruffle hem. But, not too dangerous, thank you very much!!

The print also turned up in a swishy pleat skirt and a print strapless dress made to look like pleats.

Images courtesy of style.com

An art deco inspired black and white wave print—a reference to a pattern from the movie—not only served as a pattern for the runway covering, but also showed up in a series of pieces. A Birds of Paradise print continued the journey to Rio in fun pieces like a cotton metal moto jacket.

The theme took an unfortunate turn towards kitsch with a series of pieces festooned with giant pineapples. But just when the pineapple parade threatened to become too much, Miller sent out another series of winners including a delicious tomato colored stretch linen wrap crop top paired with a georgette skirt in a sidewalk fruit stripe pattern, and an ivory floral embroidered shell with a white twill embroidered skirt that hit just the right balance between tropical beauty and urban sophistication.

—Karyn D. Collins

Karolyn Pho Spring 2015

September 8, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Imagine being asleep in a lucid dream and trapped inside a hospital is the entire cast of “Scrubs.” Everyone is naked and without a designer wardrobe when suddenly a closet appears and all medical uniforms of the cast are futuristically inspired. This vision summarizes, Vagabond, the spring 2015 collection of LA stylist turned designer Karolyn Pho.

This season Pho cleverly transformed medical scrubs, nursing outfits, and even Dansko white clogs into a cool downtown uniform. How does Pho rework such stark references and make a collection playful and whimsical? Mostly in a color palette of sky blue and pearl white, Pho adds sequins on several ensembles and highlights erogenous zones with cutouts, pops of color and racer back looks.

A few standout pieces included a saturated emerald green deep v shift dress and ivory mock neck tubular pleated gown. Pho did well redesigning the lab coat into several remixed designs including: shirtdresses, blazers, overcoats and tees all interestingly persuaded by men’s tailoring techniques.

Images courtesy of Dan and Corina Lecca/nymag.com

Pho’s day jackets, the remakes of lab coats, were great additions for a woman’s daytime wardrobe. Some “party” dresses lacked maturity and even with added sequins the transformation of fantasy into reality did not always translate. Yet, overall Karolyn Pho’s collection was a light display of future cool.

—Kelly L. Mills

Venexiana Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For several seasons now, Kati Stern has demonstrated that she has a strong affection for column gowns that harken back to silhouettes of the Golden Age of Hollywood. And this season was no exception.

Though Stern did employ other silhouettes this season, the column silhouette that she incorporated so brilliantly for fall/winter 2014 was still front and center for spring 2015. What was different in this outing was Stern’s use of sequins and cutouts.

Stern started this collection with an assemblage of black gowns with cutouts that were a combination of crop top and illusions. The column silhouette continued through much of the collection with a color palette that included lots of metallic fabrics in pewter, bronze, petrol, gold leaf and silver.

Though the column silhouette worked adequately well in this collection, fall 2014 seemed more of fit for Stern’s column gowns. Perhaps, that was due to Stern’s ingenious pairing of the column gowns with cropped fur jackets and Stern’s using more dark hues and colors rendering the fall 2014 looks more drama, glamour, and distinction.

For spring 2014 there was, of course, more bold color and wider variety of embellished fabrics. Still, the repetition of one sequined gown after the next tended to dull the excitement of the initial beautiful sequined renderings, especially when Stern, as always, has so many looks in collection—57 to be exact.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Still, there were several brilliant standouts. Stern’s multicolored floral silk chiffon halter gown with crystal detail, mint silk satin one-shoulder gown with Preciosa crystal belt, black and gold sequin beaded halter gown, petrol sequin halter gown with Preciosa crystal collar, and dusty rose beaded sequin gown with plunge neckline and Preciosa crystals prove that Kati Stern is still on her game. And though not quite as provocative and stunning as last season, still on trend, glamorous, elegant, and worth noting.

William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

For spring/summer 2015 there is lots of sheer fabrics, bare skin and more bare skin. And no body does bare skin better than Custo Barcelona. Aptly named this SKIN collection emphasized the sensuality of the feminine silhouette, allowing the sexual, and sometimes sassy side of women to come out, front and center.

Custo Barcelona is a miasma orf bold color, fabric combinations, silhouettes and design aesthetic. And where the disparate points of view has left some consumers confused or nonplussed some seasons, for spring 2015 Custo’s crazy quilt of ideas was more cohesive and consumer friendly.

In this outing, Dalmau Custo channeled Giorgio Sant’Angelo with a nod to Rudi Gernreich. The geometric cutouts and subtle transparencies in a range of textile—ultra light linens, flowy silks, and a variety of diaphanous fabrics—helped created depth, texture, and nuance.

The spring/summer 2014 collection made for the consumer who is in shape and not afraid to show some skin. Custo stays in trend this season with lots of cutouts, sheer fabrics and wide mix of fabrications. And though this collection had more a resort point view, projected toward exotic locales, there were some great separates that would work in a variety of spring/summer temperatures.

Though the reveals in this collection were provocative, they were not without taste or sophistication. Still, the daring Custo Barcelona devotees would be more aligned with where the brand is going this season than most customers. That said; there were some separates and in particular the men’s look that would appeal to consumers who are not a part of the Custo shopping cabine.

As always there were lots of bold color combinations in this collection. However, unlike previous outings, there were more neutral—black and white combinations—than usually found in a Custo Barcelona collection. Perhaps, this was one of the elements that made this collection more consumer-friendly. And the joy, sensuality and whimsical spirit of this outing added to the appeal that may capture a more diverse audience.

—Rosemary Ponzo

Lie Sang Bong Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

For spring 2015 Lie Sang Bong looked to happiness that can be achieved by dedication and hard work in spite of personal and/or national tragedy. This positive outlook on life was reflected in garments that incorporated a dreamy cloudscape that looked upward toward paradise, a nirvana of sorts.

For this frothy paradise Bong collaborated with Korean artist Jang Seung Hyo. This projection toward heavenly bliss held a special significance for Bong in light of the Korean ferryboat MV Sewol tragedy that claimed the lives of several high school students. Still, Bong used this tragedy as a way to tap into his own inner positivity, creating a spring collection that was a masterpiece of construction, technique and innovation.

Unlike some collections this season that solely went for looks that substituted retail viability in place of creativity and innovation, Bong found that delicate balance between consumer appeal and looks that were pieces of fashion art. That said; some looks may not translate easily from runway to department store or boutique racks. But, again, fashion should not always be about merchandising or pandering to the lowest common denomination. And Bong demonstrates in this collection that fashion as art and fashion as commerce can be congenial bedfellows.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

This exuberant and uplifting collection featured abstract butterfly prints, neutrals and hues of sky blue and gold. And Bong’s marriage of architecture and fantasy were expressed in his inimitable detailing, digital lace designs, airy trench coats and frothy separates that can be mixed and matched with a variety of garments.

—William S. Gooch

L.A.M.B. Spring 2015

September 7, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

After a three-year absence, celebrity music star Gwen Stefani brought her L.A.M.B. line back to New York Fashion Week. For spring/summer 2015, the international rocker seemingly sourced her global jaunts as inspiration for her collection entitled “The New Nomad.”

This line stays true to form of past L.A.M.B. collections, grounded by their customary trousers and jumpsuits. However, this time around, Gwen and Co. played with more cuts and colors. The look is African, bohemian, and indigenous. The base color palette is orange, fuchsia, and ice blue, blended together in ikat prints, tribal patterns, and indigenous designs reminiscent of the untouched landscapes of exotic locales. There is a full range of skirts and dresses, offered in midi, knee, and floor lengths. The crop tops, sweatshirts, and jackets are bold separates that effortlessly evoke a luxe aesthetic. The bags easily transition with you as you go from city dweller to global jet setter. There is even a touch of menswear influence, highlighted by an ice blue suit paired with a printed top. The entire line comes together for a woman who wants to look as though she marches to the beat of her own drum, off the beaten path, but her style is still impeccably put together.

Backstage, Gwen stated, “we are all so inspired by each other’s cultures, and how we influence each other.” Outside of the L.A.M.B. presentation, Fashion Reverie’s own Kayla Nicole caught up guests, including actress Daniele Brooks of Orange Is The New Black, and asked them about their own sense of style. Check out the video below.

—Carl Ayers

Desigual Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring/summer 2015 Desigual has once again united with iconic couturier Christian Lacroix. In this, Desigual and Lacroix’s third year of collaborating, the two powerhouses have come together to create a collection inspired by and, at times as fragile as, Mother Nature herself.

Nature’s flora and fauna influence are abundantly apparent in the prints and patterns, as this collection is a cornucopia of color. Jade, white, and onyx serve as backdrops to the vibrant hues of daisies, desert roses, tropical hibiscus and Mexican dahlias while ocean blues remind us of the waterways that connect us all.

Not energized by just one locale, Lacroix’s collection is a multicultural cross-section of dream destinations. Light and airy tank dresses and maxi skirts invoke a Mediterranean spirit as they are coupled with South American motifs. The Ibiza influence is featured in floral frieze and breezy mini shorts, while kimono-style tops represent Japan.

The colors and prints aren’t the only eye-catching features of this collection; the range of styles is also to be applauded. The Desigual consumer can choose from fun and sporty to young and sophisticated all in one shop. The varsity-style jackets can take you from early tailgate to summer music festival. The sailor-style trousers and mini dresses prepare you for a night on the town … any town.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

The real standouts of this collection are the blue and white floral coat, the jacquard mini dresses, and the printed tank dress. These looks offer a hint of sophistication fun that can enhance any woman’s wardrobe. As the designer says, “a blossoming kaleidoscope, the collection is a gift meant to inspire happiness, one bloom at a time.”

—Carl Ayers

Sally Lapointe Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

What can be said of Sally Lapointe? Well, the one thing that can be said is that season after season; the brand never fails to deliver. Since Fashion Reverie has been covering Sally Lapointe, we have seen her evolve her aesthetic to include a range of perspective without loosing her core point of view.

From collections that have incorporated Lapointe’s futuristic mien to collections that displayed Lapointe’s penchant for dramatic statement pieces, season after season the brand continues to refine its aesthetic, crystalizing its creative point of view into pristine reflection of Lapointe’s seemingly endless reservoir of design talent and craftsmanship.

For spring 2015, Lapointe was back to the urban fashion warrior; a direct departure from her more elegant fashion dissertation on column silhouettes and coats with restrained volume. Never one to abandon a point of view that has sustained the brand; Lapointe juxtaposes masculine and feminine and the hard and soft like no other. And this collection is possibly her strongest mix of those disparate elements. Those elements are ideally expressed through Lapointe’s pairing of sheer diaphanous tops with skirts that had volume and structure.

Though this collection fostered a minimalist approach, there was lots of design in this spring outing. Structured skirts contained back zipper details, simple shift-like tees, bandeau, and crop tops were ingeniously paired with asymmetrical structured skirts, ostrich-feathered tops were coupled with asymmetrical skirts, and cropped bomber jackets worked well with structured midi dresses and skirts.

And just when you thought this would be a dissertation on neutrals, Lapointe ingeniously injected rustic orange and salmon tone variations. If there was one misstep in this collection, it was the studded oversized belts that worked well on some looks but made other looks lose the lightness that permeated throughout the lineup.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Lapointe’s deceptive “less is more” allowed her in this collection to demonstrate the genius of her craft. And where others who follow this directive produce collections that fail to make a statement, with Sally Lapointe this point of view only highlights what many fashion pundits have know for some time. Sally Lapointe rocks!!

—William S. Gooch

A Moi Spring 2015

September 6, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

A Moi, a new designer collection by Spanish designer Alejandra Alonso launched in 2013, is a brand to keep on your radar. Alonso works well with texture and line to create a chic femininity and an easy approach to daywear that can ease into night.

Childhood memories and family trips to St. Biarritz inspired the recent spring/summer 2015 collection poetically entitled, Reflections. Presented at the Highline Hotel, A Moi, showcased models in modern tailored asymmetrical jackets that ironically appeared with both a vintage and futuristic appeal. A collection that could easily travel and still create a variety of preppy, cool looks was key, for example: waist-length jackets with shorts, day dresses and A-line skirts in colors that referenced the sea. Even a couple of sexy fitted knit dresses were nice ensembles in a nautical navy and foam green color.

Reflections is a destination collection that can easily pack into a suitcase for a long weekend. A vintage mood set in the times of art and leisure, models were red-lipped and made to look sun-kissed, some handled badminton racquets as accessories, while all donned sleek wet hair as if they were fresh fish just out of water.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

A Moi accessories are also available and offer a sophisticated balance to the designer’s noteworthy disposition of casual chic in design and fabrication. Did any one say St. Tropez?

—Kelly L Mills