Womenswear — Page 53

Theia Bridal Fall 2015

October 9, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Theia’s Bridal collections are always full of surprises; pleasant surprises that is. Creative director Don O’Neill always expands beyond the tried and true and produces bridal collections that cause a re-imagining of what brides can wear on that very special day.

That said; Theia’s fall 2015 collection was no exception. For fall 2015 Don O’Neill looked to Mongolia’s frozen tundra, the eternally snowcapped Altai Mountains with blue rivers flowing through its glaciers. This combination of glacial beauty and crystalline, snowcapped landscape was made evident in a collection of white chiffon bridal gowns resembling icy snowdrifts, heavy Venice winter lace, hand woven ribbon tweeds, tulle white outs, ice blue fil coupe jacquards, cozy cashmeres, curly lamb wraps and crystal and sequin embellishments.

For fall 2015 Theia also collaborated with socially conscious Mongolian-based cashmere brand, Naadam. With that in mind, O’Neill brought together the polar opposite worlds of Irish fishermen and the Mongolian tundra by expressing these two cultures as seen in his winter white Fisherman knit “Naadam” cashmere gown and crystal encrusted turtle neck ivory crepe gown.

Though O’Neill chose to use heavier and more layered fabrics than are normally seen in spring/summer bridal collection, O’Neill still managed to keep this bridal outing youthful and on trend. What could be more youth inspired than O’Neill’s winter white Chantilly lace jumpsuit, O’Neill’s wintry glacier blue gowns, and bridal garments that embraced the continuing trend of crop tops—which Theia so brilliantly introduced for spring 2015—this season fittingly expressed in cashmere crops in silver metallic, icicle sequins, and encrusted crystal.

Still, there were silhouettes and looks in this collection for a variety of brides. O’Neill still incorporated some traditional bridals looks as seen in his ivory silk charmeuse gown hand embroidered with Swarovski crystals and an ivory Spanish tulle strapless gown with hand embroidered sequin and pearl bodice.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were the winter white embroidered hand woven ribbon tweed coat with Duchess satin shawl collar, winter white Chantilly lace jumpsuit with Venice lace appliqué and Mongolian lace wrap, ivory cashmere sweater, double duchess satin skirt, winter white fisherman knit “ Naadam” cashmere gown, and porcelain and mirrored sequin, hand embroidered icicle gown.

—William S. Gooch

Vivienne Hu Spring 2015

September 12, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Something is going on? Most fashion designers find their passion for designing clothes early in life and follow a particular career path to achieve their dream of showing during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW). Whether they competed on “Project Runway” or struggled for years for the opportunity to show at “the Tents,” despite the many defections—DVF, Christian Siriano, Ralph Rucci, Tracy Reese and others—away from “the Tents” at Lincoln Center, a lot of designers still aspire to show their collections during MBFW.

Still, there seems to be a significant amount of designers whose path now leads them out of the world of finance into the fashion industry. Vivienne Hu is one such designer. And though her debut at Lincoln Center was auspicious, it was not quite a singular sensation.

Hu likes to play with asymmetrical shapes and in her spring 2015 outing she paired asymmetrical shapes with graphic prints. This specific point of view was utilized by Hu in her spring 2014 collection; however, with much better effect this time around. Hu is still trying to master the combination of graphic details with asymmetrical cuts and layering, and unfortunately this assemblage of points of view renders looks that are sometimes disjointed.

Images courtesy of zimbio.com

Where these combinations of fabrications, silhouettes and details work best is when Hu decides to stay with neutrals and keep the silhouettes simple. Standouts in the collection were Hu’s mauve and pale tangerine draped chiffon dress, asymmetrical grey vest jacket with grey pencil pants, and asymmetrical striped grey graphic print dress.

—William S. Gooch

Ricardo Seco Spring 2015

September 12, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Ricardo Seco seeks to firmly put Mexico on the fashion map with his current collection for spring 2015, entitled “DREAMS.” Staying true to his Mexican origins, Seco was inspired by the Wixárika tribe and incorporated the beading and multi-colored details of the native community into this collection. Juxtaposed to simple pieces and classic silhouettes, the tribal fruit-colored designs were also seen in the accessories, such as belts, necklaces, skateboards—that look too cool to ride—and custom New Balance sneakers. Not new to creative collaborations, Seco has also partnered with Converse, Casa Cuervo, and Disney in the past.

“My collection DREAMS is a collaboration with the Wixárika, an indigenous community from Mexico, who are known for their beading. As they create each beaded piece they put their dreams into their work. With these pieces and the World Trade Center venue I made a collection for future dreams and the next generation that will live and work here. This collection and its venue are standing for the generation of future dreamers to come,” states Seco.

Making his New York debut in 2012 as a menswear designer, this time around, Seco also showed his first women’s collection as an equal counterpart to his men’s collection. His women’s wear included skirts, bombers and jumpsuits that evoke global thoughts of chic Paris and laidback L.A., especially his leather dresses and tops. His men’s pieces included shorts, pants, and shirts that translate from rocker to skateboarder, particularly his jackets. Wanting to impart an appearance of truly global fashion, Seco combined Wixárika colors with urban neutrals of black, white, and grey in textures of suede, leather, cotton, neoprene, and silk.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

This collection will easily sellable and will seamlessly blend into almost anyone’s current wardrobe. Seco doesn’t offer anything too visually shocking, but every piece, whether for women or men, offers the simplicity of comfort without sacrificing style.

—Carl Ayers

Ohne Titel Spring 2015

September 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Let the work out begin! Sexy, Sporty, and Strong are the three words that describe Ohne Titel’s warrior woman this season. Warrior woman refers to the strength that the Ohne Titel woman must possess. The spring/summer 2015 season did not disappoint and in fact makes one want to get in shape and expand that work out regime.

In a base neutral color palette of black and white, collection’s hues were firm with occasional streams of various bold blues, pop pink, turquoise, and yellow. Athletic references were apparent with sports net sweatshirts, blouses, inlays and bandeau tops. Asymmetrical cut out dresses were sexy with knee-length silhouettes and slashes of banded contrasting colors. A couple of full volume trousers and jumpsuits were freeing and great for the season, a great alternative to some of the more body conscious dresses and mini skirts.

Images courtesy of style.com

Ohne Titel, a designer label by Flora Gill and Alexa Adams, is German for ‘Untitled.’ This season the Serengeti comes to mind and the beauty of Masai tribes; admiring their sleek, athletic, elongated limbs, and colorful banded jewelry on arms and legs with fringe drapes across their skin. Ohne Titel’s collection is the perfect fashion moment for that woman who is an urban warrior.

—Kelly L. Mills

Elle for Kohl’s Spring 2015

September 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Ooh lah lah.

Parisian chic isn’t usually a term associated with the budget department store chain Kohl’s. But, a special limited edition collection that debuted last month during New York Fashion Week is aiming to bring a bit of elan to Kohl’s customers.

The collection by Kohl’s in-house design team uses the Elle brand as its inspiration promising a taste of the Elle trademark French glamour and sophistication at Kohl’s prices. The results: elegant chic with some terrific dashes of panache.

The bulk of the collection was built around wardrobe staples done with a dash of style. A trench coat, for example, was catapulted from the mundane to standout status with well-placed black piping that flattered the figure. Houndstooth check jazzed up an otherwise basic peplum top paired with textured front cigarette pants.

There was a cheeky, street-smart sensibility here as well with several pieces boasting French phrases like sweaters that winked with slogans like “L’amour,” “Oui Oui,” and “J’adore.” Of course, this isn’t Chanel but the French are known for a sense of cheeky irony so these slogan items seemed perfectly in step with the mood and feel of a street-smart Paris woman.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

The most interesting and risky (fashion-wise) pieces came in the eveningwear. A perfectly on-trend organza stripe dress hit just the right notes as did a deceptively simple lace shell and pencil skirt combination. But a Charles James–inspired high-low ball gown, while admirably ambitious and eye-catching, showed the limitations of creating on a Kohl’s budget. Even in our egalitarian world, there are still some things that call for a higher quality of materials and execution.

But, this was a minor misstep in a mostly exemplary collection that will give the Kohl’s customer plenty of budget-conscious options.

—Karyn D. Collins

Mauricio Alpizar Spring 2015

September 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Australian-based designer Mauricio Alpizar and London-based accessories brand A. Barretts collectively showcased their latest spring/summer 2015 collections, Summer Nights, during New York Fashion Week at Chelsea restaurant Bocca di Bacco. This season, inspiration was found in fashion icons Bianca Jagger and Grace Jones. Inspired by the glamour of New York City in the 1980’s, the collections commemorated those memorable moments of fine dressing and fine dining right before hitting Studio 54.

The fashion event began with a soiree hosted by celebrity chef Kristin Sollenne of Bocca di Bacco. Celebrating fashion week indulgences and ‘Domestic Chic,’ a fusion of fashion and food, Sollenne introduced her signature pastas and sauces and auctioned off an A. Barrett’s clutch for the Hope Foundation, a charity organization that supports education through scholarships and the arts. After a long day of fashion showings, guests were graciously greeted with a curated ‘80’s menu including hors d’ oeuvres and specialty cocktails coined ‘Move Like Jagger’, ‘Reverie’ and ‘Eddie a Go-Go.’

Designer of the brand Mauricio Alpizar is Costa Rican and Asdrubal Barreto-Abreu of A Barretts is Venezuelan, both directors successfully blend their international lifestyles into their collections while still preserving their South American roots. Influenced as children by rural textures and animals of their homeland, both designers incorporated these threads into their inspiration. Alpizar’s use of the owl as a symbol of the night and female mystery was wisely referenced in his mostly white collection revealing sheer tops, jackets and jumpsuits trimmed in white feathers or draped fringe imitating the look of bird wings. Evening dresses boldly displayed images of owls both literally and figuratively.

Images courtesy of Fashion Gallery

UK accessories brand A. Barretts, headed by creative director Asdrubal Barreto-Abreu, stylishly complemented Alpizar’s collection with exotic skinned leather clutches and small evening bags. A. Barretts new collection, entitled Hidden Summer Nights, added various applications of metals, crystals, and high quality chrome to exotic skins and glossy textures meant to reflect our creature within. Highlights of A. Barretts collection were vintage references with modern interpretations including a feathered laser-cut grey leather handbag with silver chain, furry hounds tooth and bubble-puffed leather pouchettes.

—Kelly L. Mills

Harbison Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Charles Harbison designer of Harbison collection states, “I love women who embrace their contradictions: their strength and frailty, wisdom and curiosity. “

Harbison Collection is smart and embodies a cool elegance. Harbison has developed a modern style interpretation of life’s dualities: the masculine and feminine, color and line and of course, the whimsy and the reality.

This season Harbison once again loves juxtaposition and like any artist cleverly pulls it all together in a magical menagerie that could subsequently wardrobe Uma Thurman in a Tarantino film. Inspirations include artist Brice Marden, the soulful and earthly textures of Erykah Badu, patron of the arts Pannonica de Koenigswarter, and a Japanese Zen garden melted into one solid collection.

“My client is the girl who wants to navigate her life in refined luxury sportswear where she not only communicates her vulnerability but also her power and intelligence.”

Images courtesy of Charles Harbison

This season has plenty of great fashion moments including tea-length evening dresses, a fabulous pair of mustard-colored wrap culottes, red-stretch wool ruffle trousers with suspenders, and a navy pencil skirt with a front zipper embellished with detachable silk crepe flowers. Must-have pieces include a black pinstripe suit, trench, and navy mosaic wool overcoat.

Charles is originally a student of art and architecture and has recently shown his last two collections at Milk Gallery for MADE. Harbison is one of the few up-and-comers with a distinct point of view; sold in stores Satine in L.A., Ikram in Chicago, and Matches in London..

—Kelly L. Mills

Betsey Johnson Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Betsey Johnson looked to the theme of marriage equality for inspiration for her spring 2015 collection. As always, Betsey Johnson’s runway shows are fun, frolicky, and at times a bit frivolous. The overarching question now is, after all these years does this design icon still have it, or is she just rehashing old ideas?

Well, Johnson is rehashing old ideas as evidenced in this spring collection. But, she still has it!!! Though this collection was heavy on theatrics and a little light on design, Johnson still managed to have fashion pundits rethink some of her tried and true silhouettes. What may have diminished some of the viability of this collection was having too many celebrities and personalities walking her runway. Still, all is forgiven because no one puts on a show like Betsey. A Betsey Johnson runway show is like going back to a favorite dessert that you don’t have very often; you always anticipate the return.

When it came to the actual garments in the show, the looks that had the most impact and retail viability were Johnson’s opening set of pastel, metallic cocktail dresses. And though Betsey divided her collection into various themes, some didn’t quite register, while others feel on the side of costume. Though her lingerie/bedroom theme looks were cute and flirty, the looks should probably be left to a little slap and tickle in the boudoir.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

Some of the more wearable pieces in the collection were the polka-dot shirtdress in lavender chiffon, a white tuxedo jacket with fitted pants, and a teal lame bridesmaids dresses. There were some interesting bride’s wedding gown options, but some of the beauty of the gowns was lost of the Rupaul’s Drag Race alumni who wore them!

—William S. Gooch

Serena Williams for HSN Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Serena Williams hits it out of the ballpark. Well, in her case in the extreme corners of any tennis court. As the Grand Slam Winner of 18 Grand Slams, expectations were high when it came to Williams showing her spring 2015 collection for HSN during New York Fashion Week (NYFW). Tennis champion Caroline Wozniacki, Coco Rocha, and even the revered Anna Wintour were in attendance. Unfortunately, Williams didn’t live up to expectations.

But Williams’ milquetoast spring 2015 collection may not be all her doing. She is designing for HSN, a clothing network that appeals to a middle of the road common denominator of consumer buying taste. Hmm, maybe, that is the strum and drang, here.

Interestingly, Serena Williams’ NYFW debut was not completely a typical HSN experience. There was good design in the collection, especially some of the moto jackets in this showing. Coincidentally, some of the better looks in the collection were only made for the runway show and are not available for consumers to purchase on HSN.

In spite of the uneven elements of the collection, Williams did demonstrate that she does understand what the HSN shopper wants; clothing that is easy, comfortable, and that can be dressed up. And Williams’ electric blue, zippered dress was a knockout, as well as some of her asymmetrical skirts.

Images courtesy of fashionwirepress.com

Now, if the fashion industry could only get her to design a collection minus HSN!!

—William S. Gooch

Michael Costello Spring 2015

September 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2015 Michael Costello looked to the goddess inside every woman. This goddess, supernatural spirit inhabits forests, fields, caves, lakes and the sea. She is alluring to men and attracts to the attention of gods and demigods. Aloof and magical, this woman marches to her own beat, always in control of her amorous interludes, inspired by earth elements and the inner workings of otherworldly manifestations.

In this spring 2015 collection, Costello relies heavily on mermaid silhouettes, as well as other silhouettes that show off a woman’s curves. Costello hit many of the right notes a collection that was majestic, elegant and editorial. Still those right notes all came together cohesively as one note, focusing sometimes too much on the mermaid silhouette. When Costello veered away from the sculptural mermaid silhouette, the collection began to have more depth, nuance, and whimsy.

Costello stayed on trend with lots of illusions, sheer fabrics and skin exposure. Though the reveals were for the most part tastefully done, it is hard to imagine women outside the realm of models, actresses, and pop stars having the gumption to expose their “goodies” to the masses.

Images courtesy of Bennet Cobliner

What Costello did manage to do in this outing is beautifully express his aesthetic through sheer florals, beading, metallic fabrics and colorations that adequately referenced earth elements and his goddess motif. The craft demonstrated in this spring collection solidly places Michael Costello among that new breed of designers that is pushing the genre into new directions, harnessing all the tools of textile innovation, construction and a fashion-forward point of view to create garments that are now and next.

—William S. Gooch