Womenswear — Page 52

Nicholas K Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With Nicholas K, you will get the nomad chic aesthetic. However, this season the design duo included looks that were more refined and retail friendly while staying true to their signature aesthetic. Though Nicholas K fans love their nomad chic point of view, how many draped, asymmetrical garments can consumers have in their wardrobe without the look becoming a little stale?

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

That said, Nicholas and Chris Kunz for fall 2015 looked to silent movie horror films from the 1920s, in particular “The Cabinet of Dr. Caligari’s.” The dark, somewhat gothic elements of the German 20s horror flick flittered into this collection evidenced in looks that bordered on sexy, retro sadomasochistic incarnations with a hint of Victorian elegance.

Suprisingly, this marriage of nomadic chic with Victorian bondage girl—a dissimilar pairing if there was ever one—rendered this outing perhaps more sensual and accessible to consumers. I could envision a lot of young female consumers in these looks more than the Nicholas K urban, nomadic warrior from previous season.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Unlike previous seasons, there were no male looks in this collection. The design duo made up for this lack of menswear by taking the typical man’s pinstripe suit and deconstructing it in some very innovative ways. The pinstripe suite was sometimes deconstructed and turned into an asymmetrical poncho. At other times it was designed into dropped crouch pants with a voluminous pinstriped coat.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

True to form, there were several stunning coats in this collection. Coat standouts were Nicholas K’s marble-printed shearling bomber, burgundy pinstriped suit with fur color, a belted olive and black leather hoodie coat and the shocker of the collection a rather traditionally cut long cashmere camel coat.

—William S. Gooch

Monique Lhuillier Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Monique Lhuillier has done it again!! Just when you think you have figured out her design aesthetic, Lhuillier does the unexpected. From inspirations that are almost literal—remember her spring 2011 “Garden of Eden” collection—to collections that are floral-inspired, seascape-inspired, even movement and exercise inspired, what is consistent about each collection is that there will be plenty of red-carpet looks.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For Lhuillier’s fall 2015 collection there were several red-carpet looks, lots of bold color, and a plethora of currents trends embedded in the clothing. However, this collection reflects Lhuillier evolution in design aesthetic. Lhuillier has evolved beyond just making beautiful gowns; she is now solidly projecting toward re-creating and challenging what the fashion cognoscenti and consumers look for when they think of red carpet and evening luxury clothes. Now don’t get it twisted, Lhuillier’s clothes are still exquisitely beautiful; however, her design aesthetic has developed a steely sophistication that goes several iterations beyond just pretty clothes.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In this collection, Lhuillier has abandoned the tulle skirts and corseted, red-carpet ready gowns that had become her signature look. In their stead, Lhuillier—inspired by mid-70s glam, the 1920s and believe it or not, Kate Moss— synchronized all these influences into seamless collection that reveals her true evolved voice.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the collection opened with the pedestrian, but beautiful body-hugging lace dresses, Lhuillier turned the volume up with high-slit, diaphanous silk charmeuse gowns in burgundy, teal, amethyst, and saffron. Lhuillier also incorporated shearling coats in a variety of colors with lacy, star-embellished bodysuits underneath. Some of standouts in the collection were Lhuillier’s sequined-embellished teal gowns.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The final tableau of models standing in the seated area usually reserved for show attendees was a fantastic exclamation point to the end of the show. It also was a forecast of where New York Fashion Week is heading; more dramatic shows customized for a smaller audience. Consider, Merecedes-Benz Fashion Week at Lincoln Center is no more. Industry professionals gird your loins, it is going to be a bumpy and exciting spring 2016 season.

—William S. Gooch

Inbal Dror Bridal Fall 2015

October 14, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

After several seasons of covering New York International Bridal Week, most editors believe they have seen it all with very surprises each season. There may be some surprises with injections of color into collections that rely on mostly neutrals—white and its many variations. And there may be a few shockers when it comes to silhouette. But for the most part it is the usual ball gown, fit-to-flare, mermaid silhouettes with occasional sheath or column silhouettes.

Then again, there is Inbal Dror. Israel-based Inbral Dror this season brought something to New York International Bridal Week that was much needed; bridal gowns that could easily double as couture runway garments. Granted all of her looks played off of a neutral white palette, but the construction, detailing and styling was solidly in the realm of what one would see at Paris couture show.

Dror has prided herself in the past for using vintage lace fabrications and this outing was no exception. What did stand out in this collection was Dror’s elevation of her collection from pieces that relied on a vintage perspective to the combination of pristine construction and vintage seen through a regal, modern lens. And having her runway show in the cathedral-like atmosphere of the Highline Hotel fashion venue only added to majesty of Dror’s fall 2015 collection.

Dror does have a penchant for low-dipped, V-neck sheath gowns that gather in the back around the buttocks. And as wonderful as this aesthetic is, this fitted look works best on tall, lithe brides-to-be. Curvy girls beware!! However, the beauty and opulence of Dror’s fall 2015 collection was awe-inspiring, fantasy dreamscape.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

There are some spectacular standouts in this collection—and there were many out of the extensive 35 looks. But, to narrow down a few were Dror’s shoulder strap dress with handmade embroidery of small stones, sequins and a belt with pearls and Swarovski crystals, fitted sequin dress adorned with delicate embroidery, deep V-neck sleeveless dress with De Calais lace and detachable tulle revealing a knee-high dress, and vintage off-the-shoulder solstice lace tulle dress, hand embroidered with leather pieces, silk thread crochet, pearls and Swarovski crystals.

—William S. Gooch

Austin Scarlett Bridal Fall 2015

October 14, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

Some bridal fashion pundits might call Austin Scarlett a fashion maverick; others might define Austin Scarlett as forward thinking when it comes to creating bridal masterpieces of art. Whether Austin Scarlett is categorized as projecting bridal designs into the next century or a design master, what is obvious about Scarlett is that understands that fashion should be now and next while referencing things that have worked in the past.

For fall 2015, Scarlett referenced Scarlett O’Hara and “Gone With The Wind.” Whether the film’s heroine inspired Austin Scarlett or because they share the same name or both, this particular bridal outing again demonstrated that Scarlett is a master of his craft.

“Scarlett O’Hara has always been one of my muses. I loved the film “Gone With The Wind” as a child. I loved the drama, the romance and the femininity and I wanted to make that alive today for a young woman getting married,” explained Austin Scarlett.

Though this collection was a romantic and traditional in scope, Scarlett found a way to infuse his special brand of uniqueness and ingenuity in the collection by incorporating rich green hues into his color palette. “Green is youthful and fresh and appropriate for a wedding. The color conjures images of floral freshness. And green is also Scarlett’s [O’Hara] signature color.”

“The silhouettes in this collection are very body conscious and architectural. The silhouettes, though very constructed, still show off a bride’s beautiful figure.” That said; the silhouettes in this collection were enhanced by Scarlett’s use of silk faille, Ondine silk ribbons, sheer illusion necklines, crystal-embroidered bodices, and long voluminous trains.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

And as always with Austin Scarlett there is constantly some dramatic effect in his collection. Scarlett chose in this outing to have his dramatic brilliance manifest in the his bridal gown trains which very billowy at times with a faux bustle effect.

—William S. Gooch

Carol Hannah Bridal Fall 2015

October 12, 2014 by admin 1 Comment

What has Carol Hannah being doing since “Project Runway” Season 6? She’s been designing bridal gowns; that’s what. And putting her own unique signature spin on that particular segment of the fashion industry which is made evident in Hannah’s fall 2015 bridal collection.

For fall 2015 Carol Hannah looked to Ancient Egypt, the study of alchemy, and the mysticism of the sacred scarab for inspiration. “I am pulling from a couple of different places for this collection, but it all started for me in Egypt with hieroglyphics, Egyptian art, and the colors of aqua and turquoise. And from there I launched into this exploration of minerals, geodes and crystals, the layers and the geometry of the shapes.,” details Hannah.

Those influences are crystallized in a bridal collection that uses non-traditional silhouettes, fabrications and color palettes. These points of view has varying produced a collection that is for the consumer looking to have a very unique bridal gown as a part of a destination wedding.

Hannah’s bridal silhouettes, perhaps, work best in an exotic locale very loose, diaphanous clothing is the norm. “These season I was really looking to less structured, looser silhouettes. Last season, the gowns were more structured. The silhouettes this season are softer, but no less powerful. I wanted the juxtaposition of the softness and the weight of the embellishments which kind of function as armor. These two varying points of view give my bride a particular kind of strength.”

Still this fall 2015 collection fits in quite well with Hannah’s customer; the young bride who is eclectic and wants make a statement in her own special way. “My customer is usually a creative type who is not looking or a traditional lace gown. And for that reason we try to give a customer options that not already in the market,” explains Hannah.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

Standouts in the collection were Hannah’s” nude beaded geode draped chiffon a line with open back, sequined silk georgette bustier and skirt with beaded corded belt, and nude organza sheath with metal sequin chains and organza petals.

—William S. Gooch

Rivini by Rita Vinieris Bridal Fall 2015

October 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

With Rita Visnieris there is always a surprise element to her bridal collections. And Rita Vinieris is one of a handful of bridal designers that understands that the needs of modern brides go beyond traditional bridal gowns in familiar bridal silhouettes.

For fall 2015, I wanted to explore the concept of “Soft Seduction.” I took all of my favorite go-to items … a sweatshirt, an oversized tunic, a sexy bustier and a simple tee shirt and create some untraditional interpretations. I also explored options of scale, from minimal to grand using a vocabulary of translucent fabrics that float and play with light, quietly seducing the eye,” explained Vinieris in the line sheer for her fall 2015 bridal collection.

From Vinieris’ lace sweatshirt over cigarette pant with tulle train, crystallized cocoon tankette with transparent underskirt to Vinieris’ minimalist sheath with subtle cutouts, and satin gown with crystals dripping on shoulders and train, this outing collection was the right combination of next and now. Though there were some tried-and-true silhouettes in this outing—Vinieris’ voluminous fil coupe ballgown and her layered Alencon lace with a layered organza skirt—this collection was created for the young bride that wants something elegant but different.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

And Vinieris achieved just that in this outing. Understanding that the modern bride sometimes wears more than one garment for her nuptials, Rita Vinieris gave her bride a variety of options. And in today’s competitive market, choice is king, or should I say queen!!

—William S. Gooch

Christos Bridal and Kenneth Pool Bridal Fall 2015

October 11, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Sparkling dazzle and youthful elegance. The two themes represent two very distinct bridal personae that can sometimes have the potential for going all sorts of wrong in different ways.

Fortunately, bridal designer Amsale Abrerra brings a clear focus and spirited embrace of both sides of the bridal coin. Abrerra’s Kenneth Pool represents the sparkle side while Christos is the personification of youthful elegance. Or rather, we should say three sides to the bridal coin since Abrerra also continues to give her main, Amsale line, plenty of attention as well.

A separate review of the Amsale collection appears elsewhere on the site.

What makes Abrerra’s lines so noteworthy isn’t that there is variety. That spice of the bridal business life is almost standard today.

But Abrerra consistently finds ways to make each of her lines distinctive and yet imbue all of them with a unified design aesthetic and an overall elegant sensibility.

The fall 2015 Christos collection moved from the spring collection’s youthful sweetness to a more mature but still dreamy romanticism.

Lace, silk chiffon, and tulle combined for a series of nine looks that epitomized delicacy, a light ethereal airiness.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

The infusion of lace was particularly important here as Abrerra used it not only for overlay skirts and overall layers but also for details that lent the collection a vintage feel. One silk chiffon gown, for example, featured soft Chantilly lace ruffle sleeves that gently accented the shoulders. A layered silk chiffon and georgette gown showed a hint of lace at the décolleté.

Another in the vintage-flavored line seemed straight of the 1930s—a silk chiffon draped gown with crystal hand beading at the neckline and back, with a delicate bit of lace edging the neckline.

Adding to this dreamscape was Abrerra’s use of soft layers, many of which were done with a pale pastel such as a fit to flare halter gown in soft tulle and layered with a very pale mint tulle and several gowns in pale blush.

If the Christos line is the essence of dreamy vintage romanticism than its sister line, Kenneth Pool, is the stylistic yang —sexy, modern and glamorous.

This is where sparkle lives. But, thankfully, under Abrerra’s watchful eye, it’s an elegant and tasteful brand of dazzle. The designer’s taste meter remains pitch perfect.

The fall 2015 Kenneth Pool collection was particularly notable for its range. With the 10 gowns in this collection, Abrerra showed that there’s more than one way to make a sparkling statement.

And so there was a long sleeve fit-to flare gown to open with a white crystal hand beaded net-like overlay bodice and a detachable long train. An eye-catching fit-to-flare hand beaded crystal gown with sheer back detailing that featured a recurring design motif—a pattern of beaded scalloped shapes that flattered the curves followed.

Several gowns were done in a figure-hugging stretch charmeuse including a fit-to-flare halter gown with a crystal hand beaded neckline. Deeply scooped sweetheart necklines prevailed, although as the halter gown showed, there was room for variation.

And just when it seemed that fit to flare would be the only way to define sexy, Abrerra turned up the volume, literally.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

A dropped waist ball gown with a tulle skirt and a taffeta peplum that bordered on being overly fussy, still kept the sexy vibe with a hand beaded appliqué detailed bodice that featured a sheer illusion back. And a final strapless dropped waist ball gown showed the designer’s gift for modulation presenting a bodice entirely void of sparkle but a dramatic pouf of a tulle skirt over a shimmering layer of tulle.

—Karyn D. Collins

Oleg Cassini Bridal Fall 2015

October 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

For Oleg Cassini, tradition reigns supreme. And the brand’s affinity for creating gowns that appeal to the bride who has a predilection for refined opulence was evident in its fall 2015 collection.

Drawing inspiration from a Parisian drawing room illuminated with crystal chandeliers, which reflects the exquisite details of Oleg Cassini’s sophisticated collection, was the focal point of this collection. This motif carried throughout the collection, highlighting bridal gowns featuring floral appliqués and embroidered lace with crystal accents.

Lace gowns embellished with sequins and polished crystals are always a constant with Cassini combined with a nod toward the 1960s, evidenced this season with glove accessories, pearl necklaces, tiaras, and white sunglasses. However, this season Cassini’s bridal was more effervescent and youthfully focused than in previous outings.

This projection toward, perhaps a younger bride who has a penchant for classic, traditional silhouettes was most evident in the three tea-length dresses in the collection. Also, by incorporating youthful 60s hairstyles the collection possessed more buoyancy and bounce, so to speak.

Image courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

Still, Oleg Cassini’s design team never strays too far from the tried and true signature aesthetic of the brand. And this season Cassini’s signature look combined with more youthful projection gave the brand a much-needed facelift. And the tea-length dresses—which could easily double as cotillion gowns—were a refreshing addition.

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Fall 2015

October 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

Ines Di Santo looked to modern-day Art Deco and the purity of winter for her fall 2015 bridal collection. Exploring texture, shape and how fit and form apply to the sensuous area of the neck, shoulders and back became the focal point of Di Santo’s sumptuous collection.

Having solidly established herself as a couture bridal designer, for fall 2015 Ines Di Santo pulled out all the stops, setting her runway collection in the pristine and lush Academy Mansion. And the Academy Mansion was the perfect setting for Di Santo’s dissertation on her elegant masterpieces of bridal art.

Art Deco influences were expressed in sequin, architectural beading and pearl detailing on the gowns. And interestingly this season, di Santo strayed away from populating her collection with mostly mermaid silhouettes, and including princess ball gowns, sheath gowns, and fit-to-flare gowns.

Di Santo also included a variety of necklines from the traditional sweetheart and bateau to deep-cut, V-shaped front lines and low keyhole backs. Di Santo embraced fabrications of organza, embroidered tulle, double-faced silk gowns, silk crepe georgette, and peau de sole with English netting for volume. Di Santo also featured the trends of high slits, illusions and cutouts.

Images courtesy of Presley Ann Slack

Though her column and sheath gowns were understated, the intricate Art Dec-inspired beading added texture and a glam element. Standouts in the collection were Di Santo’s pearl-engineered luxurious silk crepe georgette sheath bateau beaded build up, plunging neckline with high slit and illusion back, strapless silk peau de sole with fit-to-flare silhouette and dramatic low V-back accessorized with Swarovski and pearl-engineered beaded illusion cape finished with elegant satin bow at waist, and petal pink multilayered ball gown with ornate beaded bodice, softly scooped neckline and beaded illusion straps gown features delicate cutouts floral motifs with dramatic cathedral-length train.

—William S. Gooch

Anne Barge Bridal Fall 2015

October 10, 2014 by admin Leave a Comment

When it comes to classic bridal silhouettes, Anne Barge is right up there in the bridal pantheon alongside Dennis Basso, Oleg Cassini, Anna Maier, and Alfred Angelo. This season Anne Barge did not veer too far away from what is working for the brand; which is a good choice.

A master at finding ways to keep classic silhouettes fresh and interesting, this season Barge infused her fall 2015 collection with the current trends of sheer illusions, cutouts, beaded and sequined midriff embellishments, and detachable skirts. Though Barge stayed true to her brand’s penchant for traditional bridal gowns, for fall 2015 the brand embraced interesting fabrications—Kalika linen, dupioni, and satin stripe organza—that elevated the collection to a dissertation on where traditional bridal gowns are heading.

Though this outing was mostly a bridal compendium on traditional silhouettes—mermaid, fit-to-flare, ball gowns, A-line and sheath gowns—, Barge did experiment with some modern trends. Her detachable train was a departure from bridal looks we have seen in past collections, as well as her venture into masculine/feminine perspectives seen in a strapless gown with charmeuse lapels, jeweled buttons, a belt and deep pockets.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Standouts in the collection were Barge’s mini dress of dupioni and Alencon lace with bateau neckline and deep V-back, separate overskirt of dupioni accented b Alencon lace bodering front opening, tailored stapless gown of satin stripe organza with band at neckline an self belt accented with rhinestone buckle, and strapless trumpet gown of Kalika with notched neckline accented by Alencon lane and empire pleated band of charmeuse.

—William S. Gooch