Nicholas K Spring 2017

September 10, 2016 by Leave a Comment

 Nicholas_K_Spring_2017One would think the Christopher and Nicholas Kunz would have run out of options when it comes to their signature design aesthetic, nomadic chic. Not so!! Every season the design duo finds some interesting twist that we have not seen before that keeps their brand’s DNA relevant with a unique perspective.

Collages928For spring 2017, Nicholas and Christopher Kunz looked to the film “Theeb” for inspiration. “Theeb” depicts the life of Bedouin culture in the mystic Wadi Rum. This Bedouin lifestyle centers on endurance and simplicity juxtaposed against the wind-swept, towering plateaus and narrow canyons of that environment, where eeking out a meager existence is an accomplishment in itself; a perfect reference point for the brand’s nomadic chic aesthetic.

Collages930Where in other seasons the nomadic chic aesthetic served the brand well, with some garments that had retail value and other garments in the collections having more editorial value than what might appeal to consumers. Perhaps, the brand’s design duo was still working out the translation of its nomadic chic aesthetic into wearable clothes in other outings. However, with this spring 2017 collection those seasons of experimentation seem to be over and is now rendering a collection that is a definite plus for consumers.

Collages931 Though the floppy hats were somewhat of a distraction for this spring 2017 collection, overall, the collection was very well styled with a strong emphasis on layering, and draping, with some very interesting knotted pieces as well. And unlike other collections that hinged on androgynous fare that did not show off the feminine silhouette well, this collection was sensuous, beguiling with lots of feminine charm.

Images courtesy Umberto Fratini/Indigital.tv/vogue.com

Images courtesy Umberto Fratini/Indigital.tv/vogue.com

There were also more gowns in the collection this season than in previous collections and the inclusion of variations on alpaca was highly effective. Another addition to take note of was Nicholas K’s shift to sustainable fashion. All the leather belts, wide-brimmed hats and trenches used vegetable dye.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Just Drew Spring 2017

September 9, 2016 by Leave a Comment

 Collages901Is fashion only about the new, the unfamiliar or the groundbreaking? Well, that depends on whom you are talking to and who makes the rules.

The definition of fashion also rests with how innovation and “new” is defined.  As the biblical proverb details,” there is nothing new under the sun.” And that is absolutely accurate. So, perhaps, fashion should be defined as how well not-so-new elements are assembled, and if this unique assemblage causes folks to see something in a new and interesting way.

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And that is what Drew Warren has done with his spring 2017 collection. With enchanted, dream-like cotton candy trees, as a backdrop, Drew Warren presented some very familiar, pretty silhouettes, but with a unique perspective.

Oftentimes, great fashion collections are about three things, presentation, presentation, presentation!!! The botanical wonderland-like backdrop to this spring 2017 collection helped project a relaxed and more accessible stance to these looks that are usually associated with the upscale, urban fashionista. In this setting, Warren wisely projects that these garments could work for a variety of women. And instead of creating looks that are usually worn by that sometimes jaded, spoiled city girl, Warren has created an environment that is promotes warmth, comfort, versatility and sensuality.

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At first glance, a lot of fashion pundits would contend that these very familiar silhouettes are just a rehashing of things seen before. However, at closer examination, Drew Warren has carefully woven a tale of frothy, whimsical fancy seen through the lens of youthful, upscale feminine looks that women with deep pockets would like to wear. Every youthful socialite, or wannabee socialite, would love these looks in their wardrobe, precisely because Warren has assembled an array of garments for almost every social occasion

Just Drew’s color palette consists of hue’s of soft blush pinks mixed with white sheen/metallic layers, and newly developed fabric textures complimented the mastered silhouettes throughout the collection. The collection also portrayed vivid color palettes, alluring butterfly printed silk dresses, body-con bando’s paired with long silk trousers, and exclusive stripe patterns developed in-house, collectively forming the ultimate ideal modern Spring contemporary collection.

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Images courtesy of Supreme Publicity/ Dan Lecca

Though this is Just Drew’s sophomore collection during NYFW: The Shows, it was a rounding success. Drew Warren knows his customer well, and demonstrates in this spring 2017 collection that knowing how to expertly style and assemble familiar looks together, can go a lot further than the unfamiliar that has no retail value.

—William S. Gooch

Telfar Spring 2017

September 9, 2016 by Leave a Comment

Telfar_Spring_2017Everyone has heard the oft-bandied adage, “Less is more.” This simplicity dictum that has been one of the tried-and-true principles of great fashion also applies to Telfar’s spring 2017 collection. Except, there is one hitch. Perhaps, Telfar’s spring 2017 collection should hinge on the not often heard or spoken fashion adage, “Less is deceptively more.”

Every season Telfar continues its signature design aesthetic of taken well-worn American sportswear silhouettes and turning these silhouettes inside out. In other words, creative director Telfar Clemens deconstructs and adds his eclectic twist on classics, reimaging these looks as functional and wearable garments of the future.

Collages917What works so well in this season’s collection is that Telfar Clemens injects a bit of tongue-and-cheek humor into each garment. The classic polo shirt becomes a commentary on gender bending, awkward sexiness. From the front the polo shirts look no different than the average polo shirt, except that collar may appear to be on backward. However the back of the polo shirt could be a total reveal, dipping to regions unknown or at the very least regions not talked about in polite company.

Collages918The continuing trend of cutouts also pops up in this spring 2017 collection. However, Telfar, true to his brand DNA, uses cutouts in an innovative and interesting way. There are no cutouts on the sides of bodices, as seen in most collections. Instead, Telfar’s cutouts are fleshed out, so to speak, in unusual locations. There are cutouts in the side legs of jeans, around the shoulder blades of polo shirts, and just above the chest of polo shirts.

Collages919And in a nod to the sameness and blandness of big retail giant colors, the brand makes use of what it calls Martha Stewart and Old Navy colors—lime, tangerine, and mid-grad blue bold colors. It was a though Willy Wonka’s ‘oompah loompahs’ fell into a bucket of Home Depot paint!!

That said; the inside joke is on the fashion industry that sometimes pretends to value fashion above clothes, but in reality mostly cares about retail dollars. So, Telfar sarcastically plays with this hypocrisy while at the same time repurposing some standard silhouettes into his version of fashion.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Images courtesy of vogue.com

That’s right; clothes, which look, like fashion and are creatively fashionable!! In the words of Telfar Clemons, “Its not for you, It’s for everyone.”

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Denibi Spring 2017

September 8, 2016 by Leave a Comment

Denibi_Spring_2017How often have you heard that,“it is not always what you say, it is how you say it”? That well-used adage applies to Denibi’s spring 2017 collection, a collection that found a way to repurpose familiar silhouettes in ways that were fresh and fashion forward. And in Denibi’s debut New York Fashion Week collection, the brand proved that minimalism married with sophistication can be a winning ticket.

Perhaps, Denibi’s ability to inject familiar silhouettes with innovation and creative verve emanates from its focus on minimalism. True to the brand’s DNA of minimalism though design, Denibi’s spring 2017 collection references extends from a single African mask entitled “Nostalgia.”  “ The main inspiration for the brand came from the single ebony wood mask named Nostalgia. That is our main source of inspiration.  Its minimalism, its meaning, and its aesthetic is what developed our entire collection. Nostalgia is also the first piece of art that we ever created,” detailed the Denibi design team.

Collages889Where other brands literally interpret references to the ‘Mother‘ continent, Denibi aptly infuses its spring 2017 collection with the essence of its reference point, thusly creating a collection that is chic, sophisticated, current, consumer friendly and not weighted down with garments that substitute literal interpretation for inspired genius. The brand’s utopia—as its name denotes—is characterized by simplicity, fine taste, and modernity that is so beautifully expressed in this spring 2017 collection.

Beyond the minimalistic verve of the collection, there are a few things to note about this fashion outing. The Denibi design team is adept at putting their own creative spin on looks that we seen before, and seen often. Take the brand’s simple white blazer, the type of blazer seen in many collections season after season. However, at closer examinations, this spring 2017 jacket separates itself from other white blazers with accordion-like sleeves that can be rolled up for style and comfort. It is these little minimal details that gives Denibi the fashion edge, though its choice of silhouettes are looks we have seen many times before.

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If there was one draw back to this spring 2017, many of the garments looked as though they would have been more appropriate in a fall/winter collection. Still, perhaps, the design team was going for trans-seasonal looks that are currently so popular in the industry.

Standout looks in the spring 2017 collection are the brand’s navy blue spring coat with oversized trousers and white Spandex bodysuit, ivory high-collared vest with triple buttons and long ivory wrap-around accordion skirt, oversize velvet bomber with camel pencil skirt, and ivory turtleneck bodysuit with straight ivory trousers.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Remember it is all in the tone!!

—William S. Gooch

ELLERY Resort 2017

June 17, 2016 by Leave a Comment

wetransfer-e4eeabInspired by female characters in the 1970s cult film classic, ”The Holy Mountain,“ ELLERY’s Resort 2017 collection projected the brand into new, uncharted territory with an emphasis on psychedelic motifs and alchemy. Though the brand has always been known for its penchant for outré and the avant-garde seen through a prism of modernity and eclecticism, this new injection outré projects ELLERY into the unfamiliar and new and interesting ways.

wetransfer-e4eeab1For those unfamiliar with “The Holy Mountain,” this 70s cult classic centers on a wide range of female characters which include the wife of a weapons manufacturer from Mars, a millionaire art dealer, the alchemist’s assistant, a war toymaker from Saturn, and some prostitutes. Directed by Alejandro Jodorowsky and produced by Beatles manager Allen Klein in 1973 “The Holy Mountain” infuses Japanese Zen philosophy, bold flashes of color, and 70s cinematic experimentation.

wetransfer-e4eeab2Though this collection does reference various motifs from “The Holy Mountain,” the brand stays true to its signature design aesthetic evidenced in restrained volume, monochromatic colors, and ruffled embellishments. This resort 2017 color palette ranges from flamingo pink and lipstick red all the way to khaki, midnight, and liquid silver. A blazing woodcut floral print also features in red and white, as well as sunny yellow.

Garment details are illustrious; hefty gold hardware, zigzag stitching, circular metal studs and glossy D rings. Meanwhile round metallic buttons boldly punctuate blazers, trousers, and fluid silk dresses.

Images courtesy of ELLERY

Images courtesy of ELLERY

Since its inception in 2009, ELLERY has become of the go-to brands for that fashionista who loves garments that combine cutting edge fashion with modern innovation. And in an ever-increasing fashion terrain where sameness is becoming the norm, originality and innovative is welcomed!!

—William S. Gooch

Ports 1961 Pre-Spring 2017

June 7, 2016 by Leave a Comment

PORTS_1961_Prespring_2017The fashion industry is always ten steps ahead of what is available to shoppers in major retail stores. Though NYFW: The Shows spring 2017 is three months away, many major brands have already created their pre-spring 2017 collections.

With all the pressure from within the industry and the ever-changing fashion palettes of consumers it is a challenge to create five to eight collections a year—which includes spring/summer; fall/winter/; resort/holiday; pre-spring; pre-fall; maybe a bridal collection, and a couple of capsule collection collaborations. (Remember the major retail stores demand new product every six weeks.)

Collages732With all these collections every year, each with its own inspiration, a brand can easily get lost in the shuffle. PORTS 1961 has not only survived the thirst for new product, but is excelling the demand for innovative, fashion-forward garments.

Inspired by the creative process itself, PORTS 1961 hurdles itself into new, uncharted territory for the brand by having experimentation be the heart of their pre-spring 2017 collection. “Our attitude is always one of positivity, of optimism,” explains Nataša Čagalj, creative director. “It is important for us to show that. We always want that spirit of curiosity and experimentation from our design process to carry through into what we produce in our collection.”

This season PORTS 1961 also paid homage to the Italian factories and fabric mills that produce the textiles used in their collections. The brand’s Made in Italy and Work in Progress insignia are reworked to become central components of individual garments.

Images courtesy of PORTS 1961

Images courtesy of PORTS 1961

The color palette for the pre-spring 2017 collection embraces ice cream pastel tones to bold, energetic stripes, prints and textured neutrals. And fabric choices range from woven jacquards, cottons and silk fil coupé, offering an evolved take on traditional shirting and outerwear.

This playful, slightly off-center collection is not for the fashion-shy consumer. However, if you have a penchant for garments that push the proverbial fashion envelope and make you stand out in a crowd, this pre-spring collection is right up your alley!!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Fendi Resort 2017

May 31, 2016 by Leave a Comment

Fendi_Resort_2017Inspired by American quilting, designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi for Fendi’s Resort 2017 collection employed checkered patterns, exotic floral prints, antique Japanese wallpaper, and kaleidoscopic patchwork style placements, as well as bold colors in green, yellow, red, and blues. This incredible crazy quilt of bold colors and patterns in funneled through the lens of modern, sporty elegance with a nod toward a 1970s design aesthetic.

Always known for deep well of knowledge concerning cultural reference, Lagerfeld’s wealth of cultural references is not wasted on this resort collection. And though Lagerfeld is a septuagenarian—74 in fact—his design brilliance is still going strong. Lagerfeld’s ingenious design aesthetic has eagerly adapted the ever-changing world of fashion. Borrowing from silhouettes and styles of the past—and for this Resort 2017 collection, an early 70s design aesthetic—Lagerfeld combines these influences with modern innovation and new textile fabrications.

Collages726And though this collection was fashion forward in its scope and incorporation of new artisanal techniques that was a hint whimsy and charm that unfortunately is missing from some of the resort collections of other well-know brands. The whimsical nature of this collection is made evident in off-the-shoulder peasant-like blouses, off-the-shoulder jumpsuits, and half off-the-shoulder peplum tops.

Collages727By employing lots of separates in this collection, Venturini Fendi and Lagerfeld have made this Resort 2017 collection more retail friendly and accessible. And the five trench coats in the collection, from the bold yellow to the black trench with Japanese wallpaper embellishment all highlight how Lagerfeld is adept at taking a traditional silhouette and elevating that look to something fresh, current while still being consumer friendly.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Venturini Fendi’s influence is seen in the use of the brand’s signature motif of waves that are peppered throughout the collection. And the use of shaved mink and fluffy hand-trimmed fox used to replicate the wave motif on a short fur jacket also demonstrates that Lagerfeld is still, even at 74, way ahead of the current pack of designers creating for major design houses.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

 

Bottega Veneta Resort 2017

May 24, 2016 by Leave a Comment

Bottega_Veneta_resort_2017Primarily known as an Italian leather goods line for four decades, the brand’s 2017 resort collection continues to confirm that the brand has gone beyond accessories. In 2005 and 2006, respectively, Bottega Veneta presented its first womens and men’s ready-to-wear runway collections. And in the last ten years, Bottega Veneta has established itself as one of the go-to Italian ready-to-wear brands.

For the Resort 2017 collection, creative director Thomas Maier looked to creative a collection that had a strong emphasis on outerwear and strong tailoring. In this collection, Maier plays with different textures and color-blocking motifs that ultimately produced a collection with contrasting prints and patterns.

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This Resort 2017’s ultra-feminine coats came in a wide color palette ranging from darker hues, such as deep purple and burgundy, bright yellows, textured greens, and fire reds. And Maier’s loungewear-inspired wrap coats were embellished with lightweight sequins.

Although this collection was heavy on outerwear, Maier did include some eveningwear looks that are a great addition for that consumer that is looking for some elegant evening garments to match the chic daywear looks of this resort collection. And Maier included some outstanding accessories—handbags and retro-inspired round-toed shoes that made this collection really pop.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Standout looks in this Resort 2017 collection include the brand’s yellow day coat with black piping, black leather trench, red leather ensemble with belted jacket, and blue and black terrycloth-like jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Peter Langner Bridal Spring 2017

April 18, 2016 by Leave a Comment

Peter_Langner_Bridal_Spring_2017For his spring bridal 2017 collection, Peter Langner showed both bridal and garments from his fall 2016 eveningwear collection. While is spring 2017 bridal collection was elegant, pristine with a slight nod toward youthful whimsy, Langner’s fall 2016 eveningwear collection was elegant and sophisticated though lacking in youthful vim and vigor.

Our new bridal collection is based on a feeling and spirit rather than a theme or inspiration. Lightness and individuality is the must of this year’s collection. To stand out, to have character and style is our goal,” explained Langner.

Collages683And almost any choice for Langner’s bridal spring 2017 collection will make a bride stand out. One can always expect detailed craftsmanship mixed innovative textile fabrication. However, this season Langner incorporated some more ‘fashion as art’ design motifs into this collection. This new creative projection elevated Langner;’s 2017 bridal collection beyond the standard dewy, beautiful expression of one of the most important days in a woman’s life to a collection that possessed edge, a modern sensibility combined a touch of sass and boldness.

Overall, the collection would have been served better if Langner had selected models that a bit more statuesque. Several of the gowns looked badly fitted with hemlines tripping up the diminutive models. Still, the new direction that Langner is taking his bridal collections is much appreciated and should expand his consumer demographic.

Images courtesy of Aurora Rose/wwd.com

Images courtesy of Aurora Rose/wwd.com

Standout looks in this collection include a mermaid gown in Mikado with draped asymmetrical front, sheath gown in crepe cady with embroidered sleeves and chiffon cubes, ball gown in Guipure lace with deep V neckline, and embroidered high-neck mermaid gown in silk organza.

—William S. Gooch

Vera Wang Bridal Spring 2017

April 18, 2016 by Leave a Comment

Vera_Wang_Bridal_Spring_20171Realizing that New York International Bridal Week is more than a plethora of white gowns, Vera Wang went for the something different and unique. For spring 2017, Vera Wang debuted her bridal collection “Chasing Alix” with a short film. That’s right, a film not a runway presentation.

“I always envision my wedding collections within a certain cohesive paradigm … not literal, but suggestive… not trendy, but highly personal… Chasing Alix was an ode to the famous French couturier Madame Grés, whose manipulation of fabric resulted in some of the most modern and timeless gowns in fashion history and a woman designer from whom I have always derived great inspiration,” said Wang. Hotel Madrid expressed a sensuality, sexuality, and Spanish love of dance. Désir à L’Anglaise celebrates the profound restraint of the British monarchy, the grandeur of English aristocracy, and the drama of real ball gowns within the context of today.”

Collages672No stranger to nontraditional wedding collections—a few seasons back Wang created a bridal collection entirely of red and pink bridal gowns—and after three decades in the fashion industry Wang consistently attempts to expand her design aesthetic beyond what is expected, whether in design, concept or presentation.

That said; “Chasing Alix” is Wang’s second bridal film and she continues along her trajectory of being inspired by Spanish motifs. Like the iconic Madame Grés, there was an exciting injection of rouching and unique layering of fabrics.

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Still, what stands out about this spring 2017 collection is the incredible softness and lushness of the collection. This collection evokes fantasy, whimsy, and modern sophistication, everything a young bride is looking for.

Bravo to Vera Wang for continuing to push the envelope and expanding bridal collection beyond just a pretty white gown.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

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