Womenswear — Page 36

Reem Acra Bridal Fall 2018

October 5, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

There are many global traditions that extol the importance of having good or saintly spirits and energy forces bless the union of two people. In the Catholic tradition, Saint Joseph and Saint Priscilla are the patron saints of good marriages, as Saint Adelaide is the patron saint of second marriages. In the Hindu religion, the Lord Ganesha, who removes all obstacles, also blesses important religious events. And in Judaism, the archangel Raphael is the protector of marriage.

For her fall 2018 bridal collection, all the spirits and the saints who bless and protect marriage inspired Reem Acra. From that reference point, Reem Acra evolved a bridal collection that evokes feelings and moods of chastity, linear clarity, and otherworldly charm. This was particular true as some of the specter-like models slowly paraded down the runway with faces covered in long veils accompanied by very long bridal trains.This confluence of chastity, clarity and spectral glamour conjured up images of the Wilis from the ballet masterpiece Giselle. (In the ballet Giselle, the Wilis emerge from the graves in white bridal gowns floral headpieces of baby breath with long veils covering their ghostly faces.)Though this was a theatrical presentation of what Reem Acra does best—classic bridal silhouettes seen through a lens of beautiful embellishments, fine fabrics with a nod toward couture and fashion-forward sensibility—the brand’s signature aesthetic was not lost. And as always with Reem Acra, the production was of the highest quality with top models, and top production value.Three things stood out most in this fall 2018 bridal outing; Reem Acra’s continued love affair with quality fabrics and craftsmanship and her understanding that bridal shows should take the consumer and fashion industry professionals to a beautiful, exquisite place or set a mood. However, in this collection, Reem Acra successfully toyed with the idea that a bridal show can be cerebral exercise. Fashion pundits can banter whether the modern bride is stimulated by bridal collections that evoke purity and chastity or whether Reem Acra’s inspiration is lost on modern consumers who only cares about bridal gowns that appeals to their penchant for beauty and youthful whimsy. (Something to debate!!)

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this collection include Reem Acra’s Guipure embroidered lace gown, plunging V-neck embroidered lace gown with Gazar skirt, lace embroidered bodice gown with organza skirt, lace embroidered gown with embroidered cape, and gold and silver metallic embroidered lace gown.—William S. Gooch

THEIA Bridal Fall 2018

October 5, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

For the fall 2018 bridal season, THEIA brought sexy back!! All this sexy is set against the backdrop of the modern bride in Florence, Italy. In this evolution of the brand, THEIA embraces the curves of women of all shapes and sizes.

Like many bridal brands for fall/winter collections, the garments are embroidered with strategic glass and crystals that evoke ice cycles and snowy motifs. And unlike some bridal seasons past, THEIA has transitioned the brand to a bridal market that is more retail friendly. Still, those seasons were creative director Don O’Neill drew inspiration from such disparate influences as Irish sea nymphs, Asian opium dens, and David Bowie is much missed.Though O’Neill has transitioned THEIA into a more market friendly bridal brand does not mean that the brand has lost its creative oeuvre. This fall 2018 bridal collection contained illusion bodices with plunging necklines and open backs. There were also whimsical 3-D floral appliques and embroideries combined with soft Chantilly lace bodices and Spanish tulle skirts. And like some other bridal brands this season, O’Neill included quite a few garments that will look great on both curvy and plus-size brides.Understanding that the modern bride is looking for a bit of color, O’Neill injected a hint of color into the collection evidenced in cloud blues and blush pinks which appeared through the fall 2018 collection. And true to its design aesthetic of always adding that unique item in his bridal collection, O’Neill include a satin sexy jumpsuit for that bridal consumer who wants something goes beyond traditional bridal fare.

Images courtesy of THEIA/JS Group

Standout looks in the collection were the ivory Chantilly cutaway halter mermaid gown with hand-appliqued Chantilly lace flowers, porcelain white crystal and glass “Florentine Trellis” embroidered cap sleeve gown, ivory hand-embroidered Italian glass and crystal beaded bodice over a tiered Spanish tulle skirt, ivory satin kimono-sleeved jumpsuit, and ivory plunge front-corded lace and sequin-embroidered gown with Spanish tulle overlay.—William S. Gooch

Gracy Accad Bridal Fall 2018

October 5, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

It takes a lot of courage to launch a new brand in a depressed retail market. And what’s even more difficult is to debut a collection that stands out from what is already in the market.

Gracy Accad has done all that with her debut fall 2018 bridal collection. “My main inspiration for this collection was Grace Kelly. Not her style alone, but the embodiment of her rare beauty, and the ‘fairytale magic’ that surrounded her,” explained Gracy Accad. “In our fast-paced world, I wanted to find a place for that old Hollywood glamour we rarely see anymore; regality, femininity, and chicness, all coming together to give us a little modern romance.”True to her words, this debut bridal collection was about more than iconic Grace Kelly beauty. This collection was a dissertation on youthful charm, effervescence and nascent insouciance, all seen through the lens of nuptial beauty.

Understanding that young brides want something beyond just a beautiful gown on that very special day, Gracy Accad has incorporated looks and silhouettes one would normally see in a ready-to-wear collection. From her white bridal moto jacket with full skirt to casual, open neck white shirt with floral skirt and ruffled top with statement sleeves paired with shorts, all these looks are designed to appeal to a younger consumer. And the order of her show also reflected her different approach to bridal. “ I want to do something different, something that hadn’t been seen before. We wanted to start with something that is trendy, and something blue,” detailed Accad. “We understood that are show would be early in the morning and that this was our debut collection and we wanted to stand apart.”

Gracy Accad took a huge risk by leading off her fall 2018 bridal collection with garments a bride would were to her bridal dinner reception, a day or two before the bridal ceremony. “The modern bride is not traditional anymore, so I started off my collection with non-traditional garments. If a bride wanted to get married at City Hall some of the first pieces in my collection would be ideal for that,” explained Accad. “ We also wanted to add a little pop of color to the collection, so you have some pastel blues and pinks starting off the collection.”

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in the collection include ivory silk and wool coat high low with flounced edge and shorts, cream silk organza blouse with dropped balloon sleeves and full floral skirt, andivory silk and wool coat high low with flounced edge and shorts, cream silk organza blouse with dropped balloon sleeves and full floral skirt, and beaded lace .—William S. Gooch

Mark Zunino Bridal Fall 2018

October 5, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Mark Zunino comes from the world of Hollywood glamour. As the fashion design assistant of Nolan Miller—eventually taking over Nolan Miller’s company and his jewelry collection for QVC, for over three decades Zuninio’s name has been associated with Hollywood red-carpet glamour. So, it is no surprise that Zunino would branch into elegant bridal wear.

“The Mark Zunino bride is forward-thinking and independent. She embodies femininity by being bold and outspoken but combines it with a touch of delicacy,” explains Mark Zunino. “From country to country the message seemed clear. The modern bride dreams for unique fabrications that form well on every silhouette and marries a timeless tradition with progressive sensuality.”For fall 2018, Mark Zunino is inspired by his global travels, bringing all the things that brides want from his many travels and unifying those things into a singular expression of bridal beauty. “This collection is really about global unity. I work with a lot of brides from all over the world and they are always looking for things that they can’t easily find. Because of the power of the internet, every girl knows everything that is going on in fashion and I have found that the common thread of brides from over the world is that they want unique fabrics, form-fitting silhouettes, they want bridal gowns that are a little sexier, and a little bit of tradition. Hopefully, we embodied all of that is this collection.”This fall 2018 collection also stood out for the many unique fabrications used throughout the collection. “From my atelier collection I replicated a very expensive hand-crocheted silk at a less expensive cost. A gown that would normally cost $30,000 because of the fabrication in this fall 2018 collection is now an affordable price point. The price points of the bridal gowns in this collection range from $1600 to $5000.”Like many bridal designers this season, Zunino employs trends from fall 2017 ready-to-wear collection for his bridal looks. Zunino’s fall 2018 bridal collection was an explosion of a wide range of statement sleeves, from elongated, trumpet renaissance sleeves to laced embellished sleeves with cape attachments. There were also some off-the-shoulder looks, as well as a few halter gowns, which seems to be a big bridal trend for fall 2018.

Images courtesy of Coded PR

In this collection, Zunino also mixed sequins and floral appliques which a carryover from his atelier collection. “When I look all my luxury textiles, Spain is always doing silk floral appliques and embroidery regardless of the season so I carried that aesthetic over to this collection. We are also getting new laser-cut appliques out of Italy that are very polished. I am taking the best from every country and embedded it in this collection.”—William S. Gooch

Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring 2018

September 10, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

You can’t know where you are going if you don’t know where you’ve been. Maria Cornejo of Zero + Maria Cornejo remembered her roots for her spring 2018 collection. The impetus for Cornejo’s burgeoning fashion line was a striped triangle top created in a small studio and store on Mott Street in New York City’s NoLita neighborhood in the summer of 1998. It was this single piece that launched Cornejo’s line, a line that’s still successful.

This season’s collection was a throwback to the first days of Zero + Maria Cornejo, albeit with contemporary twists mixed in. Cornejo and her design team delved through the brand’s archives to create a continued signature vision that could appeal to today’s contemporary woman. Sculptural draped dresses have long been a part of the brand’s DNA, and in this spring 2018 outing Cornejo demonstrated that these draped garments still work for female consumers.The woman of today doesn’t want to be too confined boxed busy of her varied and busy life, and Cornejo’s silhouettes are perfect for that woman who wants to give the illusion she is wearing something somewhat form-fitting, and yet still giving her freedom of movement.

While the designer is also known for minimalism in structure, she doesn’t shy away from bright colors or luxurious materials. The opening look of a pod dress in silk charmeuse was on trend for spring/summer 2018, with pink popping up in multiple collections in all shades from pastel pink to blush pink.As part of this whole “Back to the Future” approach to clothing—not relative to the 1980s cult classic—Cornejo featured new garments that were paired with looks from previous collections. For example,one model walked the runway in Cornejo’s Orion Dress from fall 2017, paired with a new cropped fin pant in bi-color satin.

Images courtesy of PR Consulting

Cornejo demonstrates in this collection that timeless garments can continue to have consumer appeal, and even though some garments go off trend, they will eventually come back into fashion. After all, fashion may have a time limit, but style does not.
Cornejo has always had a singular vision, a vision that she has never compromised as evidenced by the mix of the old and the new. Shapes and silhouettes seen in past collections were transformed in this collection into new incarnations. The essence of her brand’s DNA, as evidenced in this collection, included matte, shine, black, white, feminine, masculine, straight lines, circles, fluid drape, sculptural volume, stripes, ruching, fluo color, color block, and double face textiles.

To sum up the spring 2018 collection, the collection was simply Maria.

—Kristopher Fraser

Givenchy Resort 2018

June 25, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

You know that you are living in unwieldy times when housing projects become front-page news. First, there is HUD Secretary Dr. Ben Carson who plans on shuttering all US public housing. Then on June 14 London’s Grenfell Tower, a housing project, erupted in flames, killing 79 people. Add to that Givenchy’s Resort 2018 collection that used the Corviale, an imposing Brutalist housing project southwest of Rome, as one of the backdrops.

In these very uncertain times, artists are looking to juxtapose their creative vision against political unrest and societal change. No brand this season does this any better than Givenchy.

This interesting perspective may be a continuing aesthetic of Givenchy under its new creative director Clare Waight Keller. Keller has a history of redefining iconic fashion houses. From Pringle of Scotland, where Keller served as creative director, to Chloe, where Keller assumed the helm in 2011, Keller has demonstrated an adept ability of reinventing iconic fashion design aesthetic and adding a modern sensibility that sits well with contemporary audiences.

For Givenchy’s Resort 2018 collection Keller utilized the architectural backdrops of an Italian housing project and Rome’s Museum of Modern Civilization to contrast static, overwhelming structures as the collections updated classics. The Museum of

Images courtesy of lesfacons.com

Modern Civilization with its mid-19^th century modernist peristyle provided and interesting juxtaposition to a resort collection that emphasized suiting in gauzy tulle and the total lace look comprised of a cape top and ample pleated lace trouser. Additionally, the Museum of Modern Civilization’s white colonnade perfectly complimented the monochromatic all-white pieces in the collection. In comparison the Corviale project was an unusual contrast to a rich blue flounced work wear parka and filmy organza utility-pocket jumpsuit. Add to that fuchsia pieces presented within the dark, Gothic interior of the Palestra del Duce, which seemed to influenced some of garments that were a luxurious panoply of asymmetrical cuts, lace, and diaphanous fabrics, and you have a collection that found that delicate balance between post-modern influences and classic looks.

—William S. Gooch

Yolancris Haute Couture Bridal Spring 2018

April 25, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

When it comes to bridal haute couture with a fashion-forward sensibility, no one does it better than Yolancris. The Madrid-based bridal brand does not create bridal gowns for consumers who just want a pretty bridal gown. (If that is you, step to the left.)

These bridal gowns are magnificent bridal creations are statement bridal gowns that will keep your bridal ceremony guests talking about your gown for eons. And isn’t that what a lot of brides want?

For spring 2018, Yolancris looked to the paintings of Van Dyck, Delacroix, and Rubens and how those paintings might look in the iconic Casa de la Llotja de Mar juxtaposed against Victorian era influences. Interestingly, the Casa de la Llotja de Mar is one of the most tranquil and non-assuming architectural wonders in Spain. (Well, non-assuming on the outside; that is.)

That said; the Casa de la Llotja de Mar that was built in the 14^th century is a jewel of Civil Gothic architecture. And though solemn, the Gothic interior has texture and dark romance. And that can definitely be said of this bridal collection from Yolancris.

Though this collection is steeped in a couture vintage aesthetic, texture, nuance and luxury, there is a modernity in the clothes that elevates this collection a current dissertation on where couture can and should go. This particular direction is aided by some the trends included in this outing; statement sleeves, ruffles, and diaphanous manifestations.. And by including a red bridal gown, the Yolancris design team demonstrated that they understand that modern bridal collections are global and Asian points of view should be included

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

One would hope, that American consumers might start to embrace Yolancris. The brand had their American debut last October. The media response was extremely, now the hope is that consumers will come on board.

—William S. Gooch

Naeem Khan Bridal Spring 2018

April 23, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

Naeem Khan has set a name for himself as a designer that is extremely adept at bringing couture-like creations to the ready-to-wear market. For over three decades, Naeem Khan has brought his wealth of knowledge about design, construction and fabrication to his collections. (Remember, Khan got his start in the US designing for Halston.) And season after season Naeem Khan’s collections reflect his treasure trove of fashion sensibility, sophistication and elegance. Khan’s cornucopia of talents also applies to his bridal collections.

Naeem Khan’s spring 2018 bridal collection is truly for the international bride. Khan does not buck American bridal trends, but from this spring 2018 collection Khan demonstrates that is audience goes beyond US bridal markets and that his appeal is global, more centered in bridal markets where there is more risks and consumers think more out of the box.

Naeem Khan is appealing to that consumer who is more of a world traveler, and wants an unforgettable bridal garment that is reminiscent of want one would see in couture shows in international fashion markets. That said; there were some bridal garments that would appeal to an American consumer.

There was a lot of variety in Khan’s spring 2018 collection, from beaded jumpsuits to feathered mermaid silhouettes to more classic romantic gowns with statement sleeves. All these variations were embellished with lots pearl necklaces ingeniously wrapped around the garments. And that one embellishment alone helped elevate this spring 2018 bridal collection beyond just beautiful bridal garments that might be romantic or sexy.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Khan’s bridal garments reflected a sensibility that encompasses lots of points of view and lots of cultural references, from 70’s–inspired garments to classically romantic garments. And in that Naeem Khan displays his genius and in an odd way the cohesiveness of this collection.

—William S. Gooch

Ines Di Santo Bridal Spring 2018

April 22, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are Ines di Santo, less is more. Particularly when comes to Di Santo’s spring 2018 bridal collection.

“This season became a dance with the artist and the editor in my mind. Not a stitch more than what was needed, yet full license to push a design that was simply more,” said di Santo in the collections program notes.

Ines di Santo is known for her couture-like bridal gowns that employ exquisite embellishments and floral appliques and cutouts. That said; the bridal spring 2018 collection is a redirection of the brand to go for simplicity or the less is more design concept. However, when a designer has the craftsmanship that Ines di Santo possesses, changing brand direction does not diminish the beauty and sophistication of the collection, but only serves to prove the design dexterity of a true master.

And though the theatricality of Ines di Santo’s designs has been a mainstay of her collections, exciting bridal editors and consumers alike, the theatricality of her bridal garments did not distract from the attention to detail and di Santo’s mastery of technique. That mastery of technique is what stood out in this ‘less is more’ spring 2018 collection.

Though this somewhat restrained collection did not contain some of the elements that has marked di Santo’s design aesthetic, there were new trends and continuing trends in place. Some of the bridal gowns gave a nod to the continuing ruffle trend. Add to that some very large bows in the front and back of the gowns, as well as lots of halter and spaghetti strap bodices that accentuated the sexiness of this fashion outing.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standout looks in this bridal spring 2018 collection were di Santo’s sleeveless plunging sweetheart illusion sheath gown with front slit accent and dramatic lace insert with detachable train, sleeveless wide square-neck dropped waist ball gown with contoured seaming, hidden pockets, embroidered lingerie bodice sheath with sweetheart neck, low V-back and signature side hidden zipper, floral embellished sleeveless sweetheart ball gown with inverted apron skirt, illusion back and dramatic cathedral train. Giving a nod to Asian weddings were brides wear red, the bridal showpiece of the collection was a halter neck sweetheart corset modified trumpet gown with asymmetrical pleated skirt and exaggerated dramatic bow back detail.

—William S. Gooch

Mira Zwillinger Bridal Spring 2018

April 22, 2017 by admin Leave a Comment

“Some where over the rainbow, skies are blue. And the dreams that you dare to dream really do come true.”—Yip Harburg

For spring 2018 the design duo of Mira and Lihi Zwillinger brought bridal fantasy back into the conversation. For the last couple of seasons some bridal designers, responding to a retracting market, have infused their collections with bridal wear that brides that are looking for utilitarian gowns that can have more than one purpose of gowns that don’t push the proverbial bridal envelope. Though these creations are still for that very special day in a bride’s life, unfortunately, the gowns for the last couple of seasons have not been that special.

Mira and Lihi Zwillinger have gone against this trend for spring 2018. The design duo pulled out all the stops with sequins, feathers, beading and Swarovski crystals in their “Over the Rainbow” collection. But this collection was so much than embellishments. What stood out most about this collection was the infusion of charm, fantasy and functional whimsy. And young brides will definitely feel special in this spring 2018 collection.

Like some other bridal brands this season, Mira and Lihi Zwillinger employed some variations on aqua blue. Pale or aqua blue has been used in bridal collections since the mid-1950s, and as a bridal color had its heyday in the 1960s. Zwillinger brought back this bridal color this season and this expansive bridal color palette fit in beautifully in this whimsical collection.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Though this collection had a couture-like fairytale reference, many of the gowns will work best on a slimmer frame. There were a few bridal gowns in the collection that will appeal to the brand’s curvier demographic; however, in this outing, the more svelte bridal consumer was definitely front and center in the design duo’s thought process.

—William S. Gooch