Since 2011, Eisen Stein has set a standard with their innovative take on luxury bridal gowns. The design team of Yael Eisenberg and Hali Kalkstein have devised a bridal brand that expands bridal beyond traditional fare, incorporating silhouettes and a perspective that one would expect at celebrity red-carpet events.
For their spring 2020 collection, the design duo of Eisen Stein was inspired by the romantic spirt of Paris and the old-world streets of Paris that evoke images of great artists and elegant beauty. Entitled “LOVE,” this seven-piece capsule collection embodies whimsical beauty in a dreamy spring color palette.
Fairytale worthy gowns combine intricate hand-made beading, lacework and crystal embellishments with modern silhouettes. Princess dresses with custom designed tulle and silk organza guarantee brides their special moment, while details like pant suits, plunging necklines, bustiers, and sheer elements provide a sensual and dramatic touch.
Images courtesy of Dan Lecca
The feminine, fanciful gowns from this spring 2020 convey a magical collection fit for the bride who wants the ultimate fairytale wedding. And all this was against the beautiful New York City skyline.Though this collection is very similar to Inbal Dror’s aesthetic—another Israeli designer that presents regularly in New York City—Yael Eisenberg and Hali Kalkstein have set their brand apart by creating bridal gowns that could easily work on red carpet and bridal gowns that are solidly placed in a more youthful, fashion-forward market.
—William S. Gooch
All bad controversy brings good publicity; well, sometimes. At Los Angeles Fashion Week, Nicholas Mayfield took the bull by the horns. “A black man created all this commotion,” stated Khyran Shank, local multi-talented artist. Leave it to Nicholas Mayfield to never shy away from art that best explains his life revelations.
Nicholas Mayfield’s fall 2019 collection was by far the most anticipated show at Los Angeles Fashion Week. Not only a designer, but a true artist, Mayfield’s unique and diverse form of expression is an ode to kaleidoscope colors, graffiti aesthetic and Afro-American culture. From artistic canvas, furniture and unconventional pieces, Mayfield’s front row access included quirky social messages, an acrobatic performance, and his twenty-plus eccentric guests.
Gold hardware screamed hip-hop culture and was fit for a Cardi B music video, while jewel tones, sequins, and sparkles were fit for Vegas showgirls in the absolute best way. The line-up of celebrity and influencer models also included Lion Babe, Karrueche Tran, Aquaria, MJ Rodriguez, and the Clermont Twins.
The selected celebrities really spoke The Blonds’ client base—super sexed-up musicians and influencers, glamorous drag queens, transgender, and gender non-conforming who want a lot of sexy sparkle and sequins. The show was closed by none other than one of the originators of hip-hop, Lil Kim.
Lil Kim who strut the runway in a gold sequined jumpsuit with a plunging neckline as she performed “Go Awff” and her classic hit “The Jumpoff”. As always, The Blonds show was a party fit for a music video. It’s no wonder pop and hip-hop stars continue to gravitate toward the brand, they complement each other well.
It was unclear as to whether or not Zang Toi’s fall 2019 runway show was supposed to be a fashion show, a fundraiser for the RNC, or an homage to Donald Trump’s America. It would be easy to assume the latter, given that Donald Trump Jr. was seated front row at the show along with Trump Sr.’s ex-wife Marla Maples. Affluent Republicans at fashion shows where the clothes are marketed toward Upper East Side society women and Texas oil wives is nothing new, but what followed was a runway show almost fit for Mar-A-Lago.
Once his efforts to appeal to millennial consumers fell flat, Zang Toi moved on to what he does best, evening wear fit for a gala. The color palette for this season’s collection was red, white, and blue in honor of the American flag. Models walked the runway to songs including “God Bless America” and “God Bless the USA.”
The audience could be seen singing along to “God Bless America” as though they were at a political rally. Gasps and awes began when a dress with a sequin pattern of an American flag on the skirt made its debut, and the fanfare of the audience could be heard when the finale look, a black dress with a floor length, sequined American flag shawl attached, closed the show.
No fashion brand gets more inclusive than Chromat. However, sometimes that is not a good thing. Chromat has made a statement in the fashion industry because of their architectural, geometric, revealing collections that embraces sexual diversity, fetish, and the avant-garde with a fashion-forward sensibility. For the past several years, Chromat founder and creative director Beca McCharen-Tran has really sought to include models of all body types, sizes, and sexual distinctions in the brand’s runway shows. For the most part that projection has been successful; however, for the fall 2019 collection McCharen-Tran’s attempt at an all-inclusive runway show was a dramatic fail.
Inspired this season by tropical locales, this collection looked more like a swimwear collection or at the very least a spring/summer collection. Still, this collection does make sense if a consumer is looking to transition some of the garments in this collection from workout gear to a breezy cocktail party in the tropics. Fortunately, this is what the design team at Chromat intended. And in that respect this collection was credible.
Bibhu Mohapatra is back!! After not showing during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) last season, many wondered if Bibhu Mohapatra would show for the fall 2019 season and if there were adjustment at his brand that caused Bibhu to opt out of showing for the spring 2019 season. (Fashion insiders were aware that were some shakeup at the brand with a change in Bibhu Mohapatra’s PR team.)
For the brand’s 10th anniversary season, Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by his sojourn to Mount Stewart in Northern Ireland. Experiencing the beautiful gardens that were designed by the Marchioness of Londonberry in the early 20th Century, Mohapatra was able to marry the intricate beauty of the gardens with the textured fabrics and embroideries inspired by the paintings of Peter Beard.
With this collection Bibhu Mohapatra is bringing glamour back to NYFWS, something has been sorely missed from NYFWS for several seasons. And Mohapatra’s distillation of glamour and youthful charm is what fashion should always be, now and next. And this collection has now and next to spare.
For fall 2019 Dennis Basso was inspired by and dedicated his collection to that vibrant New York City fashion girl. Every woman, at one time, wanted to be her; wanted her style and charisma. And though the song that celebrated her came out in 1977, the New York City fashion girl is still an industry icon, setting a standard of fashion-forward sensibility and innovation.
Dennis Basso’s fall 2019 collection is perhaps his most youthful and vibrant collection without abandoning his design aesthetic. Known for his acumen and craft when it comes to manipulating fur pelts, Basso’s collection can easily sit more comfortably with a more seasoned consumer. For his spring/summer collections, Basso admirably attempted to redirect his design aesthetic for a younger consumer; however, Basso’s fall/winter collection often lack the youthful vim and vigor found in his spring collections. Many fashion pundits identify his use of fur as the dowdy culprit.
That said; Basso has not left his base in the dust. There was more than enough luxury stimulus in this collection to satisfy his tried and true customer. And if leopard print gets your heart racing, Basso had more than enough to satiate your palette.
Standout looks in this fall 2019 collection include Basso’s tweed trench coat with fox fur, crème shearling jacket with zip sleeve, mink and nylon leopard coat with hand-embellished mini dress, sienna python jacket, and cashmere coat with floral and python applique.
Self-Portrait designer Han Chong, otherwise known as Mr. Self-Portrait, has created a brand best known for its femininity, floral patterns, colors, frills, and ruffles. The brand, perhaps, is fashion’s ultimate feminine expression. While it didn’t quite tread the line of maximalism, the fall 2019 collection was definitely colorful and fun. However, for fall 2019, Chong scaled back the brand’s design aesthetic quite a bit and decided to do his take on minimalism.
This season, Chong worked on streamlining his silhouettes so that garments had a more classic projection. A tuxedo lapel collar jumpsuit in black suit happily married the world of the vintage with the modern tastes. A sequin cocktail dress was on trend, with sequins ruling the runways this season. That said; Chong didn’t completely throw out his old aesthetic, as he had to make sure he kept his longtime consumer base satisfied.
After almost a decade in fashion, Laquan Smith is hitting his stride. And his fall 2019 collection demonstrated that the path Laquan Smith has chosen for himself is the right path for his brand.
For this eponymous fall 2019 collection, Laquan Smith was inspired by Hilary (Karyn Parsons) from “The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” and what she would be wearing now if she were a fashion diva. Realize that this is Laquan Smith’s version of what a 2019 Hilary of “The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air” would be wearing. (Hilary character might be wearing garments along the line of Proenza Schouler, Bibhu Mohapatra or Cushnie.)
Laquan Smith found an ingenious way to make plaid and trench coats look sexy. With the trench coats there was no need for a sexy reveal. Smith’s trenches were tailored to an inch of the life of the garment, really highlighting a woman’s curves.
If there was one drawback to this collection, and there were a few questionable moments, it was Smith’s placing this collection solidly in the area of urban fashion. Lots of women want to be sexy and attention grabbing, but Smith’s hyper sexy collection may not appeal to women outside of urban or international fashion markets.
Diversity and inclusion have become keywords for many of the collections this season. The Fall 2019 season will exceed other seasons with respect to inclusion of models that represent ranges in size, racial and ethnic diversity, and gender fluidity.
As Hunte has proven in previous collections, outerwear is his collections’ strongest point. There was a significant amount or reworked denim jackets and coats, as well as shearling, leather and some nicely worked trench coats. Some of these jackets will do very well in the retail market. Unfortunately, in this collection an androgynous design aesthetic is not Hunte’s forte.
