Cynthia Rowley Spring 2020

Cynthia Rowley knows how to put on a fashion show!! Unlike some nascent brands that understand production value, Cynthia Rowley acutely understands that no matter how good the collection is, a milquetoast production can bring down the value of the garments.

For her spring 2020 collection, Cynthia Rowley took up back to the streets, literally!! That’s right, Rowley set her spring 2020 show outside on Tribeca’s Jay Street. (Inside tip: Rowley’s design team moved to Jay Street a few months ago.)  A tip to New York Fashion Week: The Shows designers; consider having some street shows in the future. Nothing is better than New York City architecture as a backdrop.

That said; for her spring 2020 collection Rowley was inspired by Dr. Seuss’ Oh, The Places You Go. And with Seuss’ estate’s permission, Rowley used some illustrations from the book as prints in her spring 2020 collection. Like Seuss and many of the characters in his book, there was a heavy psychedelic 60s reference that will entice many consumers to want to go back to that carefree time when being hip and unstructured was the norm, and you could seemingly be who you are, experimenting with cultural trends that reflected the mood of time.

Though the garments in this collection at times were unstructured, phantasmagorical and cartoon-like, there was great humor and vitality. Additionally, the floral prints on occasion did overshadow some of Rowley’s silhouettes. Still, this was a fun, easy breezy collection that with some tweaking will have instant consumer appeal.

Images courtesy of Filippo Fior/gorunway.com/vogue.com

Standout looks in this collection were Rowley’s sky blue boxy tied-at-the-waist thigh-length jacket with matching two-tone emerald and sky blue slacks, black extended crouch suspender-like romper, white baby doll dress with multi-colored sequined floral motif, green and black floral print dress, floral paint-splattered short dress with floral paint-splattered peasant blouse, and purple and blue sequined suit.

—William S. Gooch

Taoray Wang Spring 2020

Taoray Wang presented their spring 2020 collection that was projected toward a younger consumer. This spring collection featured classic Yi embroidery.  The collection was part of an effort to lift and assist residents of Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture in southwest China’s Yunnan Province. In Chuxiong, there are over 70,000 women creating embroidery, an industry that is now worth over 100 million yuan—about 14.11 million in US dollars—according to Xu Xiaomei, head of the prefecture’s publicity department. Creative Director Wang Tao brought this embroidery technique, dating back thousands of years, and incorporated it into separates for men and women that Fashion Reverie thinks will be a big hit with consumers, even if some of the styling choices were a bit inconsistent.

The collection featured sophisticated Yi embroidery on tee shirts, hoodies, and coats. The embroidery was so distinctive and elegant, yet not so trendy that it appeared dated, not appealing to consumers looking for garments that go beyond trends. The show also featured piecework shirts that despite being both asymmetrical and busy were also quite chic and youthful.

However, when those separates were combined with other looks, in combination they were a bit overwhelming. A brown embroidered jacket worn over an embroidered mesh tee shirt–begging the question HOW do you embroider mesh?–with a shredded hem, paired with distressed cut-offs and studded cowboy boots, to quote style guru Tim Gunn, “that’s a lot of look.”

The two looks of neon green jumpsuits that featured beautiful embroidery were so minimalistic, sleek and different one can’t help but wonder if they were intended for a different collection. Still, the more minimal looks did allow the beautiful embroidery to take center stage.

Photos courtesy of Concrete Communications PR

The show itself was quite interesting. It’s challenging to add theatrical touches without distracting from the clothes. When a pair of models passed each other they high fived. Then two models circled each, giving menacing looks after colliding shoulders. One model grabbed another’s hand and twirled her.

Designer Wang Tao commented that the appearance  of Yi embroidery’s at New York Fashion Week  was a successful attempt to promote the region’s cultural heritage on a world stage, adding that as more people learn to appreciate the aesthetic of this technique, the industry will grow at a faster pace and Chuxiong’s female embroiders could live a better life. Taoray Taoray’s beautiful spring 2020 collection will no doubt have consumers clamoring for more!

—Cameron Grey Rose

 

 

Flor et al Spring 2020

For spring 2020 Flor et al’s design director Karin Gardkvist and design team Nadia Manjarrez and Milad Khoreibani looked to the Pre-Raphaelite era of art. This 18th century artistic expression was categorized by a return to simplicity and sincerity as was found in an earlier time. They believed that that should return to an abundance of color and detail as seen in the artwork of painters prior to the great Italian painter Raphael.

The British aesthetes who helped forward this artistic movement included Dante Gabriel Rosetti whose wife Elizabeth Siddal was a poet, artist and model. Many consider Elizabeth Siddal’s ideas and expression of feminism a precursor to the feminist movement.

That said; Flor et al incorporated the bold color and attention to detail that characterized the Pre-Raphaelite art movement. The Flor et al design team also made reference in their use of rich color to the Industrial Age, an age in which synthetic pigments were created. We experience those pigments in this spring 2020 collection evidence in the brand’s infusion of light mauve to dark purple.

Additionally, Flor et al’s design team employed artists from France and Italy to create floral prints that conjure up images of the Pre-Raphaelite aesthetic. And this was all done in compliance with the brand’s commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility.

Images courtesy of JS Group

This spring 2020 collection will fit quite comfortably in the wardrobes of those consumers who have a penchant for vintage luxury as seen through the lens of an explosion of floral fantasy. Fashion, if nothing else, should be aspirational, and Flor et al delivers collections that project fantasy, lushness, romantic abandon, and comfort. And who doesn’t want to aspire to that!!

William S. Gooch

Pamella Roland Spring 2020

Pamella Roland does not rests on her laurels. It is not a secret that Roland has established her brand that is well-known for high-end eveningwear and red carpet looks. In that respect, Pamella Roland fits comfortably in the constellation of such American brands as Oscar de la Renta, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, Badgley Mischka, and Vera Wang.

That said; Roland’s inclusion into this hallowed and elite class of American fashion designers does not end with membership. Pamella Roland is also solidly an international brand and has evolved as her appeal in Europe, Asia and particularly the Middle East has expanded.

Pamella Roland should also be admired for continuing to show her collections during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS). As her brand has become more international, like some other American brands could have abandoned NYFWS as this fashion week has lost much of its luster. Still, Roland stays loyal and true to NYFWS which helps to give this embattled fashion week some of the glamour and shine that this fashion capital desperately needs.

Always staying true to her DNA of updated classic silhouettes, ombre sequins and flirty, fun cocktail dresses, Roland this season sought to further modernize her brand’s signature looks by injecting a new level of youthful sophistication and glamour. And this youthful injection, so to speak, in the brand’s spring 2020 collection not only worked, but also brought and renewed freshness and vibrancy.

For spring 2020, Pamella Roland incorporated bold and soft colors and textures into new embroidery techniques and silhouettes. The brand’s signature ombre sequins are re-imagined, adding dyed pearls, 3D flowers, and hammered sequins. This collection also focused on using linear aspects juxtaposed against the softness of colors and floral motifs. A metallic lurex jacquard and two-tone floral Mikado highlight the brand’s more structured pieces in asymmetrical ruffles.

Images courtesy of Filippo Fior/gorunway.com/vogue.com

Standout looks in this spring 2020 collection includes the brand’s blush crepe column gown with crystal-embroidered bodice and ostrich trim, blush marabou and tulle cocktail with fuchsia dip-dyed feathers, blush pearl and sequin embroidered lace suit with satin color, blush and gold ombre sequin-caped ballgown with ostrich feather degrade, ivory floral jacquard suit with gold lurex and lace inserts, and fuchsia draped tulle cocktail with 3D ruffles.

—William S. Gooch

 

Laurence and Chico Spring 2020

Since the launch of the brand in 2015, the Canadian-based brand Laurence and Chico has been a fashion brand that pushed the proverbial fashion envelope of what is acceptable. From their fantasy, fairytale collections—collections based on their personal illustrations of their friend and family depicted as flora and fauna—to their genderbending in-your-face no holes barred collections to their over-embellished garments that somehow work, Laurence and Chic season after season create collections that are not only adventurous by tongue-and-cheek fun with a hint of wink wink.

There was a lot of wink wink in Laurence and Chico’s spring 2020 collection. With gender fluid models opening the show, and I must say, strutting like it was the last strut of their lives, Laurence and Chico set the mood of their show.

Laurence Li and Chico Wang, the design duo behind the brand, were inspired by New York City and characters from the iconic television show “Sex and the City.” This spring 2020 collection was a lively fashion compendium on the ladies who lunch as seen through lens of an acid-based design aesthetic. Imagine Miranda, Charlotte, and Carrie Bradshaw having lunch in Manhattan with “Alice in Wonderland’s” Mad Hatter and Cheshire Cat, and dressed accordingly.

Though this collection was an purview into Laurence and Chico’s interpretation of “Sex and the City” on steroids, this spring 2020, like fall 2019’s collection was a direct diversion for the DNA of the brand whose previous design aesthetic was more fantasy based with few consumer-friendly garments. This spring 2020 collection as did last season’s collection included far more accessible separates. There was a panoply of tweed blazers, tweed trousers, and cardigans. And although these items were combined with outrageous accessories, accessories aside the traditional looks could easily fit into an Upper Eastside socialite’s wardrobe.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

There a few carryovers from last season, namely the tweed jackets and coats, and pearl-encrusted blouses and tops. That said; standout looks from the spring 2020 collection include embroidered pearl top and plaid shorts, Empire State Building printed blue pants and blazer, heart-shaped tulle top and red tulle skirt, and include embroidered pearl top and plaid shorts, Empire State Building printed blue pants and blazer, heart-shaped tulle top and red tulle skirt,.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Victoria Hayes Spring 2020

If you desire sexy, va va voom garments with a modern panache, then Victoria Hayes spring 2020 collection gives you a lot to choose from. Still, this was not a collection for the kittenish, come-hither sex siren. This was mélange of strong silhouettes for the modern woman who is not only empowered but is not afraid to show off her curves and her sexy side.

This woman embraces her sexuality and her strong sensual self not for a man and not even for her girlfriends. This feminine celebration reflects how this woman feel about herself; empowered, self-assured, and bomb ass sexy!!

Since the Toronto-based Victoria Hayes launched her eponymous collection in 2016, her clothes have always been about a woman’s strength. Whether it be her sexual power, or strength found through beauty and bold color, Hayes’ woman is always resplendent and fashion forward.

For her spring 2020 collection, Hayes was inspired by the 90s action sports comedy “Space Jam” and 1990s nostalgia. There was also a strong Western aesthetic in this collection.

True to form, many of the looks in this collection were showstopper looks that would fantastic on that celebrity who wants to grab attention, or that celeb who is not shy about demonstrating a strong, in-your-face sex siren vibe.

With astute attention to detailing with hand painted-prints, colorful silks and ornate embellishments, the Victoria Hayes spring 2020 collection explores the dichotomy of present-day womanhood; beautiful and aggressive, romantic yet protective, tough but precious. And Hayes accentuated her beautiful, yet powerful collection by having some of the best runway walkers in her show. Hayes even had supermodel Coco Rocha close the show!! (Coco Rocha often wears Victoria Hayes on red carpet.)

Though Hayes’ spring 2020 collection was great distillation on the modern-day, strong sexy woman, there were a some looks that bordered on “Viva Las Vegas.” Some the embellishments on some of the garments were a bit overdone. And perhaps, Hayes, at times. should explore the “less is more” fashion dictum.

Images courtesy of MAO PR

Still, Victoria Hayes, for the most part, accomplished in this collection what she set out to do, presenting the modern female consumer with options seen through lens of Hayes’ own design aesthetic. And there were ample options to choose from.

And as one of the opening shows for New York Fashion Week: The Shows spring 2020 season, this was a surefire hit. You rule Victoria, and victory to the victor!!

William S. Gooch

Burnett NY Resort 2020

For a brand that has been on the market barely two years, Burnett NY is making a lot of traction. With collections already in Bergdorf Goodman and other high-end retailers, Burnett NY is on its way.

For its first resort collection, Burnett NY created a luxury collection for that busy professional woman who might be taking a R&R, not only in a temperate climate, but also in a major city or the American Rivera, The California coastline. For resort 2020 the design duo or Emily Burnett and Sterling McDavid have placed their customer in the glow of western sunsets, Mediterranean-like architecture, and the white stucco rooftops of Santa Barbara.

Though their customer may not be doing any work or going to corporate meetings at their resort destination, by their apparel anyone can tell that Burnett NY woman is a high-powered alpha type. And the power suit is a key element of this resort 2020 collection. There is the outstanding metallic power suit and there is also the pearl crepe blazer with embroidered yoke with pearl crepe pant with tie-belt.

Like many luxury brands for the resort 2020 season Burnett NY’s resort collection includes a significant number of jumpsuits. However, Burnet NY’s resort jumpsuits are more sophisticated and elegant than in most other resort 2020 collections. Particular standout is the ocean crepe jumpsuit with ocean crepe blazer.

Images courtesy of Burnett NY

The citrus palette of lemon and peach, pastel seafoam blue and nudes that define this collection is aptly applied to softly tailored suits with fluid lines in crepe and linen. There are also architecturally pleated chiffon gowns that are perfect for an evening out. And the day dresses make for a complete resort 2020 wardrobe.

William S. Gooch

Missoni Resort 2020

In case you haven’t noticed, the fashion industry loves looking back to other fashionable eras for inspiration. The 1970s appears to the era that the fashion industry is currently having a love affair with. And when it comes to resort collections, no fashion period correlates to easy, breezy, fun-loving times than the 1970s. And isn’t that what resort collections are supposed to be about. After all, resort season conjures up images of comfortable, but fashionable clothes.

No other current fashion brand can distill a 70s design aesthetic better than Missoni., particularly an early 70s perspective. Mission has set a standard for their bohemian, crazy quilt-patterned collections. And their 2020 resort collection is no exception.

Inspired by 70s icons Lauren Hutton and Elsa Perretti, this free-spirited 2020 resort collection draws heavily from familiar archival motif that have been reworked to create new patterns. There are reworked zebra motifs, revisited leopard prints, multicolored foliage, and Missoni’s artsy camouflage. This kaleidoscope of reworked motifs is juxtaposed against the brand’s signature bold geometrics. 

This collection is designed for that sophisticated urbanite who effortlessly elegant and primed for adventure. This collection marries and equatorial tropical mood with the essential wardrobe staples of an urban dweller. Jacquard mini dresses are worn also as vests on fluid maxi dresses. Shirts take center stage from the bowling styles shown in a patchwork of different materials to the fitted silhouettes with roomy sleeves and the more classic options punctuated with knitted details. They are paired with high-waisted pants or with the new skirt pants injected with an easy-chic attitude. Micro aviator jackets crafted from sartorial fabrics introduce a mannish touch, while the classic tuxedo comes in a knitted version enriched with metallic accents.

Photos courtesy of C&M Media

And like many brands this season, Missoni has created their version of the mini bags, designed in collaboration with Iacobella Gaetani. Can anyone say, ”Put it in your peace pipe, smoke it on up.”

William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Bibhu Mohapatra Resort 2020

There are many positives things you could say about Bibhu Mohapatra’s fashion collections—they are fashion-forward, elegant and chic, and ready made for the red-carpet. All the platitudes aside, what Bibhu Mohapatra has managed to accomplish in less than a decade is establish a wonderful cross-pollination of East meets West, without one design perspective overshadowing the other.

That cross-pollination was evident in Mohapatra’s resort 2020 collection. While renovating a 19th Century home in upstate New York, Mohapatra discovered some old 19th Century newspapers. This discovery served as the inspiration for Mohapatra’s resort 2020 collection.

The plaids and checkered fabric in this collection referenced the popular checkered fabric and plaids of the Gibson Girl of the late 19th Century. The padded shoulders also mirrored the stylish woman at the turn of the century. Bihbu Mohapatra modernized this inspiration by adding lots of asymmetrical cuts and embellishing the checkered fabrics and plaids with sequins.

Bibhu Mohapatra has set a standard for elegantly dressing celebrities for red-carpet appearances and the savvy, urban woman in embellished evening gowns for special events. That is not to say that he doesn’t include daywear in his collections—as he did in this resort 2020 collection. However, Mohapatra’s clothes are not for the shrinking wallflower or the conservative dresser. His garments are for that consumer who is not afraid to show off her glamour and panache, even during the daytime.  And this collection, perhaps, included more daywear than previous resort collections.

Still, Bibhu Mohapatra’s oeuvre is his eveningwear. And in that category, he is right up there with the some of the legends of the fashion industry. His resort 2020 resort collection was rather evidence of that particular genius.

Images courtesy of Bibhu Mohapatra

Standout looks in this resort 2020 collection included the black lace overlay cocktail dress with feathered bottom, white eyelet and lace calf-length dress, black and white off-the-shoulder cocktail dress with asymmetrical cut and black lace overlay, and black peplum evening gown with organza sleeves and organza overlay.

—William S. Gooch

Ozwald Boateng at the Apollo

The Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s was one of the most revolutionary and creative eras of black history. Harlem, New York became the pinnacle of black intellectual, artistic and social movements, forever changing black culture and putting the merits of black artists on display. Needless to say, even modern-day black contributions to creative industries owe themselves to the work of those who made the Harlem Renaissance happen from Langston Hughes to Countee Cullen to Zora Neale Hurston.

The influence of this movement is still remembered today on a global scale by black creatives around the world, including fashion designer Ozwald Boateng. Boateng is best known for being the first black designer to ever have his own shop on London’s Savile Row in addition to being a former creative director of menswear for Givenchy. For the 100th anniversary of the Harlem Renaissance, the designer decided to not only stage a show at Harlem’s legendary Apollo Theatre, but also launch womenswear as well, which took a see-now-buy-now approach.

In April when it was announced that the designer would be doing a show based on AI, everyone assumed that he meant Artificial Intelligence. As the runway show began, it was clear that this was not an homage to the future of fashion and technology, but, rather, an ode to black arts and culture past, present, and future. In this case, AI stood for “Authentic Identity.”

Boateng, who is of Ghanaian heritage, stayed true to his identity by infusing West African design influences, including tribal prints, in his clothes while blending them with Harlem Renaissance influences. Although womenswear is new for Boateng and a big divergence from traditional Savile Row tailoring, his knowledge of textiles, color, and silhouettes were front and center throughout the collection with his cohesive approach to color and the tailoring of the women’s pieces.

Notably, the majority of the models in Boateng’s show were people of color, an approach that has been bandied about in the fashion industry where diversity and inclusion has become hot topics. And true to form, Boateng’s models reflect the sassiness and sexiness of his designs.

Boateng’s show was truly groundbreaking, not only for him as a designer launching womenswear, but also as a moment in history for Black designers, many of whom go unsung or never reach these merits of notoriety. Remember, the Harlem Renaissance is not only noteworthy for great literature and black arts explosion, but also for the great fashion that the era produced.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Boateng’s Apollo show was a renaissance of sorts for black models, black designers, and the black fashion intelligentsia, calling for a new age of black fashion in the fashion industry (Note Edward Enninful at British Vogue, Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, and the rise of Pyer Moss, Laquan Smith, and Romeo Hunte, all garnishing an international audience.)The beauty of black culture received the celebration it deserved, and Boateng didn’t disappoint his audience with this once in a lifetime experience. Ozwald Boateng welcome back to New York City!!

—Kristopher Fraser

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