Sergio Davila Fall 2014

Sergio Davila_NYCFW_14-3For inspiration for his fall 2014 collection, Sergio Davila looked to the lifestyle of South American gypsies. Davila looked to the Romani gypsies who settled in the Rio de Plata region of Argentina and their nomadic lifestyle as its relates to the migratory habits of South American horses.

Color palettes in this collection ranged from earth tone shades of brown, navy blue, garnet red and Dartmouth green. Fabrications were represented by the natural fibers cultivated in Peru evidenced in baby alpaca mixed with organic cotton. Davila also incorporates brightly colored traditional gypsy costume shapes in this collection infused into knitted and leather sweat pants, loose-fitting shirts and jackets, comfortable trousers, and knitted jacquard sweaters.

Sergio Davila_NYCFW_14-4In previous collections, Davila has referenced from various Peruvian influences and used an earth tone color palette. This season, however, Davila’s Peruvian point of reference was stronger, injecting Peruvian tribal prints and patterns with a much more vibrant color palette as opposed to fall 2013’s collection where his color palette was much more muted and subdued.

Images courtesy of Presley Anne Slack

Images courtesy of Presley Anne Slack

This fall 2014 collection was also a lot more relaxed, aiming for more ease of comfort as compared to Davila’s fall 2013 outing. There was much larger range of knitted sweater and shirt silhouettes combined with fitted pants. And Davila’s use of knitwear this season is right in step with many designer’s nod toward combining knitwear variations with leather, fur, and cashmere.

—William S. Gooch

Black Sail by Nautica Fall 2014

Collages190Nautica has consistently been a leader when it comes to American sportswear for men. The label’s Black Sail collection for fall 2014 demonstrated why.

Sportswear, especially for men, isn’t as easy as it sounds. One can’t get away with just slapping together a ski jacket and calling it a day. Developments in the industry have meant constant innovations, not just in style and tailoring but in the use of high-tech materials. No man needs to look like a hefty Michelin Man when he dons winter gear these days, unless of course, he is the Michelin Man.

Collages191With the Black Sail by Nautica fall 2014 collection, designer Chris Cox proved that he has indeed found the right blend. The 40 looks presented were a perfect mix—sporty, vibrant and fashion forward without being kitschy, overdone or self-indulgent.

Outerwear, always strength of Nautica, proved to be the true standouts in this collection. Subtle color blocking, contrasts between metallic finishes and muted tones, and lightweight nylon fabrics were consistent themes here. And Cox also offered some interesting twists with separates, particularly in a variety of cargo pants.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Highlights included an ink color-blocked nylon bomber jacket, a bright red nylon rip-stop down bomber, a muted melon-colored wool jacket with leather trim and shearling collar, and two nylon jackets featuring digital prints.

Sweaters shown throughout the collection like a charcoal marl alpaca wool cardigan and an ice blue merino wool turtleneck earned second and third looks from those in the audience and not just because of the impressive physiques of the models.

—Karyn D. Collins

Richard Chai Love Fall 2014

Collages217Pop star Joe Jonas and his girl Blanda Eggenschwiler chose the perfect show to share during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Richard Chai Love + Richard Chai Men’s collection proved to be a perfect blend of flowing feminine silhouettes for the women and shearling bomber jacket swag-style for the men.

Chai’s women’s garments were expressed in fluid silhouettes featuring flounce and handkerchief skirts, ruched tops and trousers, with sequined details on jackets and pants. One petrol green/onyx paneled dress with a repeated “V” design was a standout. Chai paired an onyx parka with a detachable fur vest to a wine/navy stripped scarf dress—two types of softness, furry and silky.

Collages219In this collection Chai romances his female consumers with a winter floral pattern using it in coats, jackets, skirts and pants.  He introduced this design in the show with a bordeaux/onyx winter floral jacquard shawl collar long coat with a sage green/onyx winter floral jacquard slouch trouser—dramatic and romantic.  He softened up the classic peacoat with a sage green/onyx winter floral shawl collar cut coupled with a bordeaux/onyx winter floral jacquard paneled dress.  His tailoring talent was highlighted in several of the women’s outfits, including a bark grey brushed glen plaid cutaway blazer and a winter floral one-button jacket.

Collages218The show sparkled with black and white metallic blazers with sequin details and metallic skinny trousers sprinkled later in the show. Plaid and stripes were both popular combinations in the collection for both the men and the women.  If couples like to coordinate their outfits, Chai has provided perfect matches in his color palette, as well as good matches in plaid and stripes. Chai presented the layered look for both women and the menswear. Sometimes it was orderly; a toffee/sage/black one button blazer, shirtdress and skinny trouser worked well for the women.  But for the men it was sometimes a bit uneven.

For the men, working with a color palette of cement, stone, petrol green, petrol blue, hunter green, bark brown, and smoky navy, Chai crafted classic cut edge blazers, leather jackets, and shearling bomber jackets. Chai’s second season of collaboration with the outerwear line of Andrew Marc X Richard Chai was an excellent offering of beautiful bomber jackets, sterling shearling coats, and moto jackets.

—Francesca Simon

 

Nicholas K Fall 2014

 

Downloads124A few seasons back, in fact their last fall/winter collection, creative directors Nicholas and Christopher Kunz slightly missed the boat. It seemed as if they were churning out the same urban nomadic motif season after season and that particular point of view was running out of steam.

This season their signature looked has not changed, but they have definitely injected a lot more rhythm and energy into their work.  Imagine “Mad Max and the Thunderdome” meets Jennifer Garner in “Daredevil,”but a bit more futuristic.

Coming off of a win-win designing costumes for “Hunger Games Catching Fire,” the brother and sister design duo looked to French photographer Jean Gaumy’s book Men at Sea for inspiration. What resulted was a collection that could definitely survive the harsh winter elements, but survive it with style and fashion-forward panache.

Collages197Outerwear, particularly coats, has been this design teams strong points in previous collections, and again coats are the focus in this outing. What stands out this season in Nicholas K’s outerwear is the fantastic mix of textures, knitwear and leather, leather and vinyl, leather and fur, as well as the asymmetrical cuts of the jackets with oversized collars. And where other designers might go to extremes with layering, creating a busy hodgepodge of too many ideas, Christopher and Nicholas Kunz expertly mix and matched fabrics and silhouettes that created swaddling effect that did not distract from the overall look.

The brand has upped the ante this season and has their finger on the pulse of what the urban, downtown fashionista wants to wear. And they have even managed to make exposed midriffs sexy and some how appropriate for cooler temperatures.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

The nomadic urban warrior is still a strong point of view for Nicholas K. But, this season they have managed to elevate this perspective out of the seen-it-before lens to a point of view that is fresh, current, consumer friendly and in step with where fashion is heading.

—William S. Gooch

 

Gilded Age Fall 2014

Collages272For fall 2014, Gilded Age’s creative director Stefan Miljanic again went to the dark side. Inspired by the poetry of Edgar Allen Poe, who inspired American surrealism, Miljanic’s used Poe’s step on the dark side to give weight an body to his fall 2014 collection.

“You see darker looks this season with Gilded Age, even raven masks, referencing Edgar Allen Poe … Fashion is a part of us and I want to breach that world between fashion and art and this process has caused me to dig deeper,“ explained Miljanic.

Downloads178But going to the dark side is not new to Miljanic. For fall 2013, Miljanic delved into the post-apocalyptic world of extreme climate change using a neutral color palette of greys, black and dark denim. Though there was more color this season—deep olive, midnight blue, and tawny rust orange—the palette was still dark and somber.

Still, there were some great men’s cardigans, fitted trousers, and pea coats. Standouts in the collection were Miljanic’s high-end luxury Japanese denim titled “Annuit Coeptis” collection, which featured printed cityscapes, ravens and splattered paint.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

Images courtesy of Ernest Green

“In this collection I able to tell a little bit of the Poe story and translate it into the fashion world. Maybe someone will pay attention and think to check out how Gilded Age is combining fashion with great American literature.”

—William S. Gooch

V-Files Fall 2014

Collages206Emerging designers are always looking for a platform to showcase their collections. For their second New York Fashion Week season, V-Files has been these designers international platform. As a popular online destination for street wear-minded consumers, in this second installation, V-Files plucked three international designers whose street wear oeuvre mirrors its own point of view for an opportunity to show their collections during New York Fashion Week.

Collages207ASSK

ASSk, a Paris-based brand in its sophomore season, looked to skateboarder chic, street wear as it might look in a post-apocalyptic world. There was an outstanding pairing of digital prints and bold colors mixed in with an interesting perspective of cutouts and skater shorts. These innovative combinations helped facilitate the design duos, Agatha Kowalewski and Sarah Schofield, innovative approach to where they believe street wear is heading. Standouts in this collection were the orange hoodie and white digital print mini.

Downloads157Melitta Baumeister

Baumeister’s street wear motif was diametrically opposed to ASSK’s urban skater chic point of view. Baumeister found her stride in using architectural construction and innovative fabrications to forward her fall 2014 collection. This recent Parsons’ MFA graduate’s style brought up images of Issey Miyake, but funneled through her prism of recreating staples items like ribbed tanks and fisherman knits using molded materials. Restrained volume was the key to this collection evidenced in Baumeister white neoprene dress and plunging v-neck black neoprene coatdress.

 

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

Hyein Seo

South Korean Hyein Seo closed the show by incorporating 80s–horror film graphics on oversized fur coats and jackets. Reminiscent of fashion bad boy Jeremy Scott, Seo’s concept was interesting, but failed to have the intended impact.

Though some looks from the other two designers focused more on runway impact than retail viability, there were some looks, particularly from ASSK, that street wear devotees can flaunt. Unfortunately, Hyein Seo’s fall 2014 was far too focused on concept with very few looks that can translate to the street. Theatricality and fantasy are eye-catching, but at the end of the day, clothes have to sell.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Backstage

Collages110Though Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week spring 2014 is over, as well as fashion weeks in London, Milan, and Paris, memories still linger. We all love the way the collections look on the runway, and the way each model brings that extra something that makes us look at silhouettes, construction, fabrications and the designer’s point of view in new ways. Still, it is not all sparkle and shine.

In Fashion Reverie’s unique way of presenting texture, nuance and a broader spectrum of perspectives and with the assistance of our photo editor, Ernest Green, we demonstrate that Fashion Week is a collaborative effort. Putting a runway show together is a lot of hard work and without the collaborative efforts of makeup artists, dressers, the ground crew, PR firms, the technical crew, and the models and designers themselves, the stunning presentations that we hold near and dear to our hearts would not happen.

Raleigh Denim Spring 2014 Backstage

Though the brand has extended beyond denim, their brand of denim has never looked so good.

Though the brand has extended beyond denim, their brand of denim has never looked so good.

Nicholas K Spring 2014 Backstage

Nicholas K is the first show of MBFW spring 2014 and the models are mostly just beginning a week of hair pulled, twisted and primed into all kinds of interesting configurations.

Nicholas K is the first show of MBFW and the models are just beginning a week of hair pulled, twisted and primed into all kinds of interesting configurations. Hang on kids, its going to be a lot of hair pulling!!

 

Nicholas K Spring 2014 Backstage

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Kenneth Cole Spring 2014 Backstage

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Diversity rules with Kenneth Cole.

 

Steve Alan Spring 2014 Backstage

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With Kenneth Cole it all about the face. And guys will make passes at this model who wears glasses!!

Malan Breton Spring 2014 Backstage

OK, I've got a secret. These images are not from MBFW, but taken three weeks later at the Taiwan Museum's cultural celebration. But hey, Malan Breton's collection is still slammin!!

OK, I’ve got a secret. These images are not from MBFW, but taken three weeks later at the Taiwan Museum’s cultural celebration. But hey, Malan Breton’s collection is still slammin!!

—Staff

Cicily Daniels Reflects Back on Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014

Ralph_Rucci1My fellow fashionistas will appreciate how my heart skipped a beat when I first walked through the doors, past security, and entered into the Tents at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW).  I had my cute dress, fierce heels, and sunglasses on, hoping that I looked the part. Though I have penned articles for Fashion Reverie in the past, this was officially my first Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week as a fashion commentator, so I was a bundle of jittery nerves.

Inside there were swanky-looking bars, booths from various sponsors, and a lot of extremely, well-dressed people. I was in the midst of Fashion Week, and I took a breath trying to take it all in.

Unlike regular fashion insiders who cover MBFW season after season, I went to as many of the booths as my energy permitted, because I wanted to do everything.  I mean, where else would I get a custom made zipper bag printed with my photo on it at the Samsung booth, or a tote bag from ebayNow, or a tasty, frozen Greek yogurt, all at no charge?

BCBGMAXAZRIA-Spring-2014-—-at-Mercedes-Benz-Fashion-Week.For a few shows, I was acting as a fashion commentator and had backstage access to designers. However, for one show, I was actually acting as an assistant to one of Fashion Reverie’s photographer.  During MBFW, the photographers wait in a separate area before their show with equipment, and even stepstools in hand.   When they are allowed inside, there is a pretty serious rush with each photographer jockeying to find riser space, in order to allow for the best sightlines.  It was interesting standing on that side of the rope, with another group of artists in their own right.  I got nervous because at one point, my credentials were in my bag and I was told that I needed to wear them around my neck at all times.  IDs were checked multiple times, because it is very serious business.  After my photographer’s assistant stint was complete, I was actually able to sit with Editor-in-Chief William Gooch and enjoy the show from the floor.

Perhaps, because I had been with the photographers for the last half hour before the show, the first thing I noticed when the lights went out was the almost musical sound created by the clicking of the cameras.  The innumerable shutters create a whirring, soft percussion that added an additional layer of beauty to the show.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

The show in question was the Ralph Rucci spring 2014 runway show, and it was my absolute hands-down favorite.  Rucci is one of only two American designers in the past 150 years, who has been invited to show his haute couture collection in Paris by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.  Seeing his show, I immediately understood why.  His 2014 spring collection was breathtaking and effortless, featuring exquisite details and beautiful textures.  Every look was truly a work of art.  I will find a way to wear Ralph Rucci in my lifetime!

I also was hanging out with supermodel Coco Mitchell at the show. Coco Mitchell has modeled Ralph Rucci’s collections for countless seasons, and was wearing a stunning Ralph Rucci original the day of his runway show.  It was fascinating to watch the myriad of people seeking her out before and after the show.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Images courtesy of wwd.com

Other highlights from New York Fashion Week (NYFW) included a brief conversation with Rod Stewart at the Helen Yarmak presentation.  Vanessa Williams was also there. The presentation was in Yarmak’s penthouse showroom and extended onto her rooftop balcony, featuring signature cocktails and a photography session.  Talk about a swanky location!  “Helentini’s were served as her signature cocktail, a cute fashion trend that we should all copy at our next soiree.  Her fun fur collection featured bright bold colors and patterns.  One of the models in Helen Yarmak’s spring 2014 presentation was “The Face” winner, Devyn Abdullah, who modeled in several shows this season—Pamela Rolland, Czar by Cesar Galindo, Joanna Mastroianni, David Tlale.  We talked about her acting aspirations, and exchanged numbers.  Iconic fashion model Pat Cleveland and her daughter Anna also modeled in Helen Yarmak’s presentation. Celebrities and fashion royalty surrounded me, so, I did some hardcore fashion schmoozing!

My first fashion week was quite a whirlwind.  I interviewed three designers for video segments.  I attended multiple presentations and shows—Ralph Rucci, Sukeina, Giulietta, Ann Yee, Helen Yarmak, Malan Breton, Kye, Rita Visnieris, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Fashion Shenzhen—sometimes taking cabs back and forth from multiple same-day events.

Image courtesy of nydailynews.com

Image courtesy of nydailynews.com

I had the unique opportunity to be backstage, and at rehearsals and was reminded that like Broadway, what we see on the runway is ultimately, a big show.  The behind the scenes work on styling, lighting, makeup, hair and even location making all the difference to how the clothing in a collection can be appreciated.  I hung out with some celebrities, and envisioned the moment when I would be in the front row at all the shows as a celebrity attendee.  Still, for spring 2014, I was there, in the middle of the world of fashion, witnessing glamorous collections, and hobnobbing with the fashion elite, and it was amazing.  CATCH ME NOW!!!

And now I am on to one of the most important days of my life, my wedding, which is in a few weeks.  Still, I am having goose bumps about my first NYFW. I can’t wait until the next one!

—Cicily Daniels

 

Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2014

Collages35This is what the cool kids will be wearing next spring and summer. The Marc by Marc Jacobs is always a barometer for a certain brand of cool—you know, the kids who used to be the ones at the popular kids table in school but have grown up enough to be able to drink legally. These clothes are for them, and the rest of the class who kind of always wanted to be them. And being one of the cool kids is a good thing when you have clothes like this.

Jacobs put a big focus on suits—pantsuits for men and women and for the women—jumpsuits and even playsuits, too. Yes, these are not your mother or father’s idea of a suit and that’s the point really. These are fun clothes with a tongue-in-cheek wink at convention.

Collages34You want me to dress my age and wear a suit? Well how about if I wear a cotton candy pink satin one to go clubbing in? And yes, there are his and hers versions of said cotton candy pink satin suit. Don’t like that one? Well how about a satin jumpsuit with a big tie that’s part of the bodice design. Is that formal enough for you?

Downloads5The satin also found its way into other designs on tops, jackets and trousers sometimes in designs reminiscent of iconic looks like a jockey’s silks, a cheerleader dress and a classic Varsity jacket festooned with MJ emblems of course.

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Images courtesy of style.com

Speaking of satin, this is a season to shine in the Marc by Marc Jacobs world. Literally. Satin shimmered, sequins twinkled with star appliqués (get it?), metallics glistened, and a snazzy iridescent watermelon leather dazzled in a skirt as well as a coat.

Can you hear me now?

—Karyn D. Collins

BeSpoken Spring 2014

Desktop3The dapper gentlemen behind the ultra-hip, well-tailored men’s line, BeSpoken returned for another season at New York Fashion Week with a spring collection that spoke to the symbiosis between prepster charm and the dapper British gentleman. Designers Liam and Sam Fayed took inspiration from photographer Ray Petri’s Buffalo Boy 1980s influenced looks for a collection of dashing garments with hint of stylish, London-schoolboy charm. Some of these ensembles are perfect for a night out on the town.

The collection effortlessly combines the classic British-tailored cut the brand is known for with a cool urban New York vibe expressed in an assortment of laidback designs. Color-blocked patterns appeared across tailored blazers, baseball jackets and crisp oxford shirts with bomber silhouettes along with cutoff sweat shorts could be see throughout the assortment of sophisticated menswear.

Images courtesy of style.com

Images courtesy of style.com

This spring 2014 collection consisted of a color palette of classic black and white, navy, light grey, and salmon distilled through an edgy, preppy aesthetic. The Fayed brothers recreated the British school uniform and channeled it into a unique, modern interpretation of today’s quintessential prepster gentleman.

If you and your friends are looking to go out and turn heads while reveling in a night of fun, the men of BeSpoken have got you covered with a line that is ideal for the well-traveled gentleman who is equally successful at work and play. Work and play has never been this much fun!!

—Dana E. Givens

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