Features — Page 55

Holiday Windows Have Never Looked this Good

December 24, 2013 by admin 1 Comment

Images clockwise Pull & Bear, Barcelona, Harrods, London, and Saks, NYC

Winter Wonderlands, Nutcracker Suites, and Santa’s Workshop are all typical themes explored, improvised and revised on for department store window’s holiday displays. How many times have you seen a sexy Santa and Mrs. Klaus, a Winter Wonderland that has gone to the dark side, or how about exploring a Nutcracker nestled in a futuristic Kingdom of Sweets.

Bloomingdales, NYC

Retailers spare no costs at creating holiday window displays that cause a sense of wonder, excitement and even titillate holiday shoppers. But sadly, many of the best holiday window displays are located in major fashion capitals far away from the Heartland. And unless you plan to be in the Big Apple, London, Paris, Tokyo, Sao Paulo or Milan for the holiday season, many of these window masterpieces of art will pass you by.

Enter, Fashion Reverie to the rescue. In true keeping with the holiday spirit, and with the help of Windowswear.com, Fashion Reverie has assembled some holiday window displays from around the world that promise not only to stimulate the senses, and make you reach deep into your pockets but stretches the boundaries of the art of window dressing. The holidays have never been this imaginative or mind expanding.

Macy’s New York

Liberty, London

Galeries Lafayette, New York

Harrods, London

Printemps, Paris

Lord & Taylor, New York

Marks & Spencer, London. All images courtesy of windowswear.com

—William S. Gooch

Theia Conjures Up Kim Kardashian’s Fantasy Wedding Gown

October 25, 2013 by admin 3 Comments

On the heels of New York International Bridal Week, Kim Kardashian and Kanye West announced their engagement. Kanye West popped the question to Kim at the AT&T Park in San Francisco on Kardashian’s 33^rd birthday (October 21). West, a true devotee of theatrics, commissioned a 50-piece orchestra to play while “PLEEEASE MARRY MEEE!” was displayed on the Jumbotron.

Image courtesy of dailymail.co.uk

Kanye West placed a 15-carat Lorraine Schwartz diamond ring on Kim’s finger, and Kardashian commented the next day to E! News, “last night was truly magical!!! I am the luckiest girl in the world!” …”I get to marry my best friend!”

While West and Kardashian celebrate their engagement, bridal designers across the globe speculate on what type of gown Kim will be wearing at her bridal ceremony. Fashion Reverie reached out Don O’Neill, creative director of Theia, and got his thoughts on Kim Kardashian’s choice in bridal gown. And we also got an inspirational bridal sketch from O’Neill, projecting what would look great on Kim.

Sketch courtesy of Don O’Neill. Image courtesy of JS Group International

“I chose this silhouette as it will flatter her [Kim Kardashian] amazing curves and fit like a second skin. It has lavish attention to detail with its intricate Swarovski crystal, silver-lined glass bead embroidery and miniature handmade silk flowers, a confection of silk organza but on a simple and dramatic silhouette. The crystal and handmade silk organza flowers and petals create rich texture on the bodice flowing down on to the dramatic mermaid skirt,” details O’Neill.

‘Having gone the traditional route with her last wedding, she can now feel free to try color. The skirt has a blush pink lining, and the ivory flowers on the skirt are delicately tipped with blush pink,” continues O’Neill.

The Theia Collection has been praised by Country Western musician Kerry Underwood and since its debut in 2009 has been picked up by Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdales, and other specialty boutiques.The Theia Collection has also appeared in such publications as People Magazine, Life & Style, US Weekly, E! News, Glamour.com, InStyle.com, and outlets. For more information, go to theiacouture.com.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion and Dance Meet at the New York City Ballet Gala

September 18, 2013 by admin Leave a Comment

Coco Chanel’s costumes in “Le Train Bleu,” Christian Lacroix’s costumes in “La Source,” and Norma Kamali’s costumes in “In the Upper Room”

Fashion has traditionally had a home in the dance world. During the Diaghilev era, Coco Chanel created costumes for the famed Ballets Russes’ production of “Le Train Bleu” in 1924. That collaboration launched a trend that has seen a prestigious list of designers collaborate with dancemakers including Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta, Halston, Isaac Mizrahi, Norma Kamali, Christian Lacroix, and Rodarte.

Last fall, New York City Ballet premiered a ballet at its fall gala that featured costumes by Valentino (it should be noted that neither the ballet by Peter Martins nor the costumes earned critical acclaim.) For this year’s fall gala, which is being held Thursday, Sept. 19, fashion and dance are a central theme.

Images courtesy of teen vogue.com

The gala, the brainchild of actress and NYCB board member Sarah Jessica Parker, has paired three choreographers with three renowned designers.

The pairings are:

Choreographer Angelin Preljocaj with designer Olivier Theyskens
Choreographer Justin Peck with designer Prabal Gurung
Choreographer Benjamin Millepied with designer Iris van Herpen

Prabal Gurung images courtesy of Paul Kolnik and Erin Baiano, respectively

Marc Happel, City Ballet’s director of costumes, has worked closely with the designers and said the collaborations have been an eye-opener for the designers as they grapple with the unique demands of creating for dance.

“They’re very used to designing for the runway or the red carpet. Suddenly you’re giving them the challenge of designing a costume which has to be worn by incredibly athletic people—dancers, doing incredible movement onstage,” Happel said. “This whole factor of movement and being able to dance in what they’re designing is new for the designers who haven’t worked with dance before.”

Olivier Theysens images courtesy of Erin Baiano

Olivier Theyskens images courtesy of Erin Baiano

“What I also have to get (the designers) to really concentrate on are the realities of being onstage.” Those realities, he said, include the effect stage lights may have on colors of the costumes, the amount of physical handling that may occur as a dancer is lifted and turned. “I also have to get the designers to understand that there’s an incredible sweat factor involved, especially the men. These costumes have to be cleaned regularly,” he added.

That still leaves a lot of potential for some interesting creations among the collaborations.

Iris van Hepern images courtesy of Erin Baiano and Fly's Eye Films

Iris van Herpen images courtesy of Erin Baiano and Fly’s Eye Films

For the Preljocaj ballet, which is inspired by the Salem witch trials, the ballerinas will dance in unitards decorated with silicone shapes. For the Millepied ballet, van Herpen’s costumes are to be decorated with hundreds of plastic pieces that are intended to resemble an armadillo. The women will also wear special boots attached to their pointe shoes.

Happel said the dancers are enjoying the process of having something created on them that isn’t the usual leotard, tights and tutus. “Many of them are quite good about the challenge of dealing with costumes that are a little different,” he said. “I think they like the challenge. They find it to be a very interesting process.”

—Karyn D. Collins

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Spring 2014 Preview

September 2, 2013 by admin Leave a Comment

Is it that time, again? It seems not long ago fashion editors and industry professionals witnessed Betsey Johnson’s comeback without the constraints of her former investors, the Punk Chic trend, illusions and cutouts suitably and strategically placed in fall/winter garments, and the rich, deep colors and fabrics ideal for frosty, wintry days, all expressed through the collections for fall/winter 2013-2014.

In this spring/summer 2014 outing expect a return to monochromatic neutrals from head to toe, bowing to the continued trend of season-less color palettes. Consumers should also take notice of boxy tops that span the fashion gamut of retro to utilitarian to futuristic silhouettes. Though fitted slacks and trousers have been the order of the day for several seasons, for spring/summer 2014, new wide-legged pants with featured pleats and cuffed hems will make a re-appearance.

Over 90 designers will present their spring/summer 2014 collections at Lincoln Center. And as always, Fashion Reverie will give its readers a first-hand bird’s eye view into the upcoming trends, color palettes, emerging designers and new faces strutting catwalks from September 5 through September 12.

Readers can also look forward to our pre-Fashion Week coverage that details great places to eat and drink between the shows at the Tents, a preview of sketches from some well-known designers and brands, necessary accessories for that editor on the go, and fantastic products that can keep you looking bright eyed and bushy tailed during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week.

Expect behind-the scenes commentary from fashion commentator Cecily Daniels and our creative liaison Coco Mitchell, as well as timely coverage from a wide array of runway shows, presentations, events, parties and street fashion. —Staff

Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair

September 2, 2013 by admin 17 Comments

Zang Toi Day ensemble. Ready-to-wear, fall/winter 2008–09 ,Bill Blass (United States), Day ensemble. Ready-to-wear, fall/winter 1997–98,Bob Mackie Evening ensemble. Ready-to-wear, fall/winter 1984–85, Yves Saint Laurent (France), ‘Picasso’ evening dress (and detail). Haute couture, fall/winter 1979-80.

Images clockwise: Zang Toi Day ensemble. Ready-to-wear, fall/winter 2008–09, Yves Saint Laurent ‘Picasso’ evening dress, Haute couture, fall/winter 1979-80, Bill Blass Day ensemble. Ready-to-wear, fall/winter 1997–98, Bob Mackie Evening ensemble. Ready-to-wear, fall/winter 1984–85, . Images courtesy of the Chicago History Museum

First and foremost, it is about the clothes. As it should be—bold, colorful, often audacious, but always colorful clothes.

As the first trio of outfits at the entrance to the “Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair” exhibit suggest, the Ebony Fashion Fair, was about clothes. And not just any clothes—the flashiest haute couture and high-end designer fashions money could buy from Cardin, Dior and Lacroix to Saint Laurent, Pucci, Galliano for Dior and McQueen for Givenchy.

But the exhibit, like the Ebony Fashion Fair, is about more than just the clothes. The exhibit, which opened in March, is currently at the Chicago History Museum now through January 5, 2014 before it goes on tour across the country.

The Ebony Fashion Fair (EFF) began in 1958 and toured the United States, Caribbean and even London, England from 1961 until 2009. Created by Eunice W. Johnson, wife of Johnson Publications founder John H. Johnson, the EFF helped local groups raise money for charity while spreading the Johnsons’ gospel about aspirational culture to the black community. Over its history, the EFF raised more than $50 million for local charities.

Jean Patou day ensemble. Haute couture, fall/winter 1986–87.Chloé (France) by Karl Lagerfeld, Evening dress, ready-to-wear, fall/winter 1983-84, Krizia jumpsuit. Haute couture, fall/winter 1981–82.

Jean Patou day ensemble. Haute couture, fall/winter 1986–87, Chloé by Karl Lagerfeld, evening dress, ready-to-wear, fall/winter 1983-84, Valentino cocktail ensemble. Alta moda, fall/winter 1978–79, photograph by John Alderson. Images courtesy of Chicago History Museum.

“I really think my mother’s legacy was she brought beauty, style and sophistication to an African American audience,” said the couple’s only daughter, Linda Johnson Rice, in one of the exhibit’s many multimedia displays.

Model Pat Cleveland, who got her start with EFF when she was 15 said in the exhibit, “We let people see there’s something more to life than struggling.”

The EFF stopped touring after the 2009 season as many of its sponsoring groups found themselves needing to cut back on programming. Johnson died in 2010 at the age of 93.

While visitors may be dazzled by the outfits—Eunice Johnson, we are repeatedly reminded, loved boldly colorful and dramatic outfits for her shows—Joy Bivins, the exhibit’s curator, said the multimedia displays showcasing the EFF’s and Johnson Publications’ history were also a crucial part of the exhibit.

Eunice Johnson with designer Yves Saint Laurent, 1972. Photo courtesy of Johnson Publishing Company, LLC and Chicago History Museum.

“It’s important that people get an understanding for all that the Ebony Fashion Fair represented,” Bivins said. “Showing the significance of the Ebony Fashion Fair in terms of the fashions is great. “But the Ebony Fashion Fair was a true cultural happening that affected everything from the Johnson’s philosophy on how black people’s accomplishments and beauty should be celebrated to the use of black models, and the impact the show had on people in the communities where the Fashion Fair appeared.”

To that end the exhibit not only features 67 outfits, but includes multimedia displays covering the behind-the-scenes stories of the Ebony Fashion Fair with comments from industry luminaries like longtime commentator Audrey Smaltz and Cleveland about life on the tour, including navigating the Jim Crow South during the ‘60s. Other multimedia displays chronicle how EFF fit into the overall Johnson Publishing Company empire which was anchored by Ebony and Jet magazines and how audiences embraced the EFF.

Among other things visitors will learn that Johnson purchased all of the outfits herself—up to $1 million worth each year—and that some designers were nervous about having their creations photographed on black models. The displays also remind visitors that unlike most fashion shows today, the EFF shows featured models who dramatically posed, twirled and strutted on the runway.

Silver raffia gown, Givenchy by Alexander McQueen, Evening dress. Haute couture, fall/winter 1997-98, Emanuel Ungaro, Bridal gown. Haute couture, fall/winter 1996–97, Tilmann Grawe tubular plummage cocktail dress Haute couture, fall/winter 2003–04

Silver raffia gown, Givenchy by Alexander McQueen, Haute couture, fall/winter 1997-98, Emanuel Ungaro bridal gown. Haute couture, fall/winter 1996–97, Tilmann Grawe tubular plummage cocktail dress Haute couture, fall/winter 2003–04. Images courtesy of Chicago History Museum

Bivins said selecting outfits for the exhibit was a daunting task. “[The exhibit] is a very miniscule fraction of what was available. I would say there were between 3,500 and 5,000 pieces,” Bivins said. “Even once we narrowed things down, we could have easily had an exhibit that was three times the size of this one. “In selecting outfits, we went with designers there were obviously important to Mrs. Johnson and pieces that represented ideas and themes which were big for her.”

While the exhibit covers a lot of fashion ground, it doesn’t include any pieces from the EFF’s earliest days. Instead, the early years are represented mostly through photographs and a couple of film clips.

Nina Ricci cocktail ensemble. Coat, haute couture, fall/winter 1987–88. Azzedine Alaïa evening dress. Ready-to-wear, spring/summer 1986

Christian Dior evening ensemble. Haute couture, fall/winter 1968–69, Azzedine Alaïa evening dress, ready-to-wear, spring/summer 1986, Nina Ricci cocktail ensemble. Coat, haute couture, fall/winter 1987–88. Images courtesy of Chicago History Museum

“There were a couple of pieces from the late ‘60s that we really considered including but they had feathers on them and were more than 40 years old and weren’t in good condition. And there weren’t any pieces from the ‘50s at all,” she said.

Bivins pointed out that pieces from the early years may have also been in short supply because until the mid-‘70s the EFF used to sell off pieces for charity at the end of each season. “We still had some really spectacular pieces to choose from. Honestly, there were several exhibitions within that storage space. You could have done this in a few different ways,” Bivins said. “I think we met our biggest challenge—to really flesh out the breadth and fullness of the story of the Ebony Fashion Fair.

The Chicago History Museum is located at: 1601 N. Clark Street, Chicago IL. For more information call (312) 642-4600 or go online at www.chicagohistory.org.

—Karyn D. Collins

TOUR SCHEDULE for “Inspiring Beauty: 50 Years of Ebony Fashion Fair”

Museum of Design Atlanta, GA
October 11, 2014 – January 4, 2015

Minnesota History Center, St. Paul, MN
May 22, 2015 – August 16, 2015

Charles H. Wright Museum of African American History, Detroit, MI
September 18, 2015 – January 3, 2016

Memorial Art Gallery of the University of Rochester, NY
January 30, 2016 – April 24, 2016

*Other dates and locations to be announced.

Nina Ricci cocktail ensemble. Coat, haute couture, fall/winter 1987–88,

Styled to Rock: There Are Some New Designers in Town

August 26, 2013 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of NBC Universal

Is Styled to Rock another Project Runway? Not. Though the new reality-based designer competition may have similarities to its design competition predecessor, Styled to Rock contestants compete weekly to dress noted entertainers and be America’s next trendsetting designer. Music and fashion mogul Pharrell Williams, model/designer Erin Wasson and Rihanna’s stylist Mel Ottenberg serve as weekly style mentors.

Erin Wasson

Based on the UK version of the same name which aired on August 12, 2012, like Project Runway, Styled to Rock has some twists and obstacles throughout the competition. Each week contestants will have a small amount of time to create an innovative garment and style the appointed entertainer from head to toe based on the celebrities’ detailed profile. Throughout each weekly challenge, the mentors will whittle down the created looks and those designers whose garments are unsatisfactory will be up for elimination. Prizes for the winner include $100,000, a fashion spread in Glamour magazine, and chance to be a member of Rihanna’s design team— oops, no trip to Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Rihanna’s design or Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show, which is the better prize? You decide.

Pharrell Williams

Styled to Rock premieres on the Style Network on November 5, 8pm, EST. Mega pop star and style icon Rihanna is the executive producer.

"Styled to Rock" contestants. Images courtesy of NBC Universal

“Styled to Rock” contestants. Image courtesy of NBC Universal

The competing designers are:

Cecilia Aragon (Age: 30) ‒ San Francisco, Calif.‒ Art and design instructor Cecilia Aragon is finally taking her own advice and following her dreams of solely working on her own clothing line. A consummate perfectionist, Aragon even has a different pair of scissors for each kind of material she uses. She credits Madonna and designer Jean Paul Gaultier as inspirations for her design aesthetic.

Adam Christoffel (Age: 30) ‒ Brooklyn, N.Y.‒ Minneapolis native Adam Christoffel discovered his love for styling at a young age. Since then, Christoffel has immersed himself in all things fashion. He graduated from the International Academy of Design & Technology and currently works as a freelance pattern maker. Christoffel is looking forward to the day when he can quit his day job and focus on his own line.

Jordan Crowson (Age: 32) ‒ Conway, Ark.‒ Women’s wear designer Jordan Crowson undoubtedly has an intense love for both music and fashion. He believes his couture designs could stand up to any of the designs at Fashion Week in New York, but he hasn’t had the financial means to break into the industry. Crowson credits his traditional Christian family for keeping him grounded and counts his father as his biggest supporter and best friend.

Adriana Diaz (Age: 22) ‒ Riverside, Calif. ‒ High-fashion street wear designer Adriana Diaz always has had a penchant for style, teaching herself how to sew at age eight. Diaz credits her daughter Adalie, whom she had when she was 17 years old, as her biggest inspiration and the driving force behind her determination to accomplish her dreams. Her design influences come from the Jamaican culture and street graffiti, and she longs to create universal high-fashion street wear.

Autumn Kietponglert (Age: 33) ‒ Philadelphia, Pa. ‒ Unapologetic designer Autumn Kietponglert has never concerned herself with what others think of her and cares more about following her artistic vision with her avant-garde designs than getting along with her fellow designers. Kietponglert says that her best design inspirations come from her dreams, which are detailed visions of the unseen world. Adept to more complex designs, her talents were recognized when she received the RAW Artist of the Year for Fashion Design in 2012.

Laura Petrielli-Pulice (Age: 35) ‒ Chicago, Ill. ‒ When she’s not spending time with her family, baking and making crafts, seemingly typical housewife and mother Laura Petrielli-Pulice designs latex fetish wear for her brand, Vex Clothing, Inc. After graduating with a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Lingerie from the Fashion Institute of Technology, she went on to create looks that have been featured in W Magazine and Italian Vogue. Despite her success in the world of latex, Petrielli-Pulice is ready to break out into mainstream fashion markets to prove that she can do more than custom fetish wear.

Kristie Metcalf (Age: 33) ‒ Seattle, Wash ‒ Kristie Metcalf, a women’s wear designer, has the unique challenge of sewing and designing with only one arm, but she doesn’t allow her disability to limit her potential. A graduate of Western Washington University, Metcalf is currently finishing a certificate program in Fashion Design at the New York Fashion Academy. Her fashion philosophy is“Form and function. Clothes should be beautiful, wearable and well-made.”

Ahni Radvanyi (Age: 27) ‒ Venice, Calif. ‒ Ahni Radvanyi is a free spirit. Outside of her design work, she enjoys centering herself through yoga and can often be found meditating or stretching in her workspace. In an effort to rebel against her strict conservative upbringing, Radvanyi joined counter-culture movements and became a performer doing circus acrobatics, hoop dancing and fire dancing. She believes that celebrities will embrace her adaptable designs because the clothes will allow them to transform throughout the day.

Dexter Simmons (Age: 29) ‒ Oakland, Calif. ‒ A designer, stylist and make-up artist, Bay area native Dexter Simmons hopes to be fashion’s next triple threat. A self-professed “oddball,” Simmons loves fashion because it’s the only place where he feels his quirky personality really translates. With this experience, he is looking to break out of the San Francisco art scene and find mainstream success with his over-the-top designs.

Andre Soriano (Age: 42) ‒ San Diego, Calif‒ Born in the Philippines, Andre Soriano gravitated toward fashion as a way of expressing himself after moving to America as a child. Although he had difficulty adjusting to a new culture at such a young age, he has embraced the idea that “fashion is freedom.” A couturier, his designs have been featured in multiple publications, including Italian Vogue. Andre’s fashion mantra is “Peace, love, glamour and fashion!”

Ebony White (Age: 36) ‒ New York, N.Y. ‒ Women’s wear designer Ebony White is eager to bring her fashion prowess to the forefront. White has been a ghost designer for several household labels. While she appreciates the opportunities given to her by working for those labels, her ultimate goal is to create a name for herself – “I’ve been designing with no voice for so long. For me, it’s just important to be able to have that opportunity to have a voice.”

Keenan Zeno (Age: 27) ‒ Atlanta, Ga‒ After losing everything to Hurricane Katrina, Keenan Zeno moved to Atlanta with only one suitcase. Through perseverance and a drive to succeed, Zeno graduated with two bachelor’s degrees in Apparel Textiles and Business Management from Southern Polytechnic State University, and he recently received his MBA in finance. While continuing to design in his personal time, Zeno makes a living as an accountant, where most of his co-workers are unaware of his designer ambitions.

—William S. Gooch

WindowsWear: Making Global Window Displays Accessible to the Masses

August 16, 2013 by admin Leave a Comment

Lord and Taylor July 2013. Image courtesy of windowswear.com

It’s that time again!! Though the lazy, hazy days of summer are still with us, there is much change in the air. And one of the true indicators of that shift in attitude and perspective—in case you haven’t noticed—is the fall/winter displays in the windows of major retailers.

From Etro’s “Life among the Ruins” window display in Milan to Dior’s juxtaposition of realism versus geometric modernism in Paris to Agent Provocateur’s sexy but mysteriously dark display in Barcelona to Barney’s “New Arrival” window in New York City, the art of window dressing breaks new ground while whetting and stimulating consumer’s continuing desire for innovative, fashion-forward merchandise.

Image courtesy of windowswear.com. Window displays clockwise, Agent Provocateur, Barcelona, Dior, Paris,Etro, Milan, Barney, NYC

Since 1780 retailers have used large windows in the front façade of their stores to attract customers or announce sales. As nineteenth-century dry goods establishments like Marshall Fields shifted their business from wholesale to retail, visual display became a necessary component to attract consumers. Even twentieth-century art icons Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol created window displays.

That said; gone are the days of small budgets like the Rhoda Morgenstern character worked with in 70s sitcom Rhoda. Today, major retailers can spend over seven figures per season to create these windows of fashion art. “Window display is multi-million dollar industry with some of the biggest brands spending millions of dollars on their windows,” details Mike Niemtzow, president and CFO of WindowsWear. “Put aside the major department stores and minus holiday windows, I would say it runs into over a million per season. If you are one of the big international brands and you are trying to coordinate flagship stores between Asia, the Middle East, South America, Europe and the US, the number goes much higher than that.”

Lanvin July 2013. Image courtesy of windowswear.com

In spite of all the incredible fashion art that is created in these windows every season, most consumers, and particularly those who live outside of fashion capitals, will rarely, if ever, experience these great seasonal masterpieces. Jon Harari and Mike Niemtzow are seeking to make global window dressing more accessible with WindowsWear, which digitally showcases 2,000 windows from 500 stores. “There is so much beauty and artistic and creative representation that is being created and emulated in display windows all around the world. We believe that as we take a very high-quality image of those windows to capture what that window represents and we showcase it, we think the creative and artistic fashion elements in the window can really be appreciated by a worldwide audience,” contends WindowsWear CEO Jon Harari.

With this global accessibility, Harari and Niemtzow, in their own way, are democratizing fashion. Expanding fashion out of an elite club to an egalitarian art form that can be shared and enjoyed by the masses. “We want to make all the windows available … We choose to cover the stores located in fashion capitals because we believe the brands that have storefront retail space in those fashion capitals are paying a premium to be in those locations so we expect they would have more of an investment in their window display and visual merchandizing. We want to blow people away with the level of quality and creativity of the images on our site. We don’t want consumers to visit Windows Wear and feel they could go to their local mall and experience the same content. So, the windows we display on the site tend to be self-selective because we choose windows from the fashion capitals,” explains Harari.

Christian Louboutin June 2013. Image courtesy of windowswear.com

Christian Louboutin June 2013. courtesy of windowswear.com

And with this cataloging of global window displays Harari and Niemtzow are systematically recording fashion trends and measuring what appeals to market consumers. From New York City to Tokyo to London and Shanghai, WindowWears documents how megabrands and brands associated with a unique aesthetic expands their points of view and translates their seasonal perspectives from one fashion capital to the next.

Mike Niemtzow extrapolates, “You have established brands like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Prada and others and their signature aesthetic is very recognizable. The challenge is keeping that signature point of view fresh and interesting to the consumer … Aritzia really understands the power of window display and is using their windows to reposition the brand in the marketplace. Moncler is also using their windows to embrace a new point of view and enchant new consumers. Though their window displays can sometimes appear off-kilter, it does capture consumer’s attention and it gets them into the stores.”

Images clockwise, Tory Burch, August 2013, Chanel, July 2013, Aritzia, July 2013. Images courtesy of windowswear.com

Window displays clockwise, Tory Burch, August 2013, Chanel, July 2013, Aritzia, July 2013. Images courtesy of windowswear.com

Harari continues, “Prada has a consistent way that they brand themselves in their windows. Then there are retailers like Bergdorf Goodman that do unexpected things in their windows. You never know what to expect and they keep anticipation high. They take more of an avant-garde approach to the way they brand themselves in their windows and that theme is continued throughout visual displays in the store … Tory Burch and Louis Vuitton will translate their runway looks into their window display. Now, the runway may have happened six months to a year earlier but the theme is later evolved in their window display. Pretty much every store that we cover, the window is an important branding moment.”

And with this digital window display aggregation, fashion brands are beginning to take notice of WindowsWear’s unique approach to democratizing window display, and WindowsWear’s perspective on trends and local markets. “Brands are coming to us and asking for advice about particular local markets. There is strong demand from local consumers for western goods … Brands are projecting a universal point of view in local markets, but that is beginning to change. As we study these markets, we are starting to see the shift,” purports Niemtzow.

Kleinfeld June 2013. Image courtesy of windowswear.com

Through WindowsWear, Jon Harari and Mike Niemtzow are not only democratizing fashion window displays, they are creating new algorithms by which retailers and brands can track trend viability, and also seasonally measure the success of their ever-evolving points of view. Window watching has never been better!!

—William S. Gooch

David Zablidowsky: Positively Expecting the Unexpected

August 12, 2013 by admin 5 Comments

When Fashion Reverie sat down with David Zablidowsky (David Z) after our photo shoot, we were struck by the contradictions and polar opposites, all good. Here is a rock musician who doesn’t party or live the hard, wild life of a rock musician, though he has the party boy swagger and attitude. The long hair conjures up images of 80s rocker style—which is the music he sometimes plays—but his taste and personal style extends to the current punk chic trend with sophisticated tailoring seen currently in high-fashion menswear brands. And though David Z is a bonafide guys’s guy with a strong masculine jawline and ripped body, his complex mix of wild rocker hair, ringed fingers and bangles, black eyeliner and black painted nails demonstrates that he is comfortable pairing the masculine with the feminine in his own unique way. In other words, David Zablidowsky is a kind of modern-day rock n’ roll dandy that appeals to a wide variety of women but is also the man that a lot of men would secretly like to be.

Shirt by Custo Barcelona, leather jeans by John Varvatos, boots by Zara

But wasn’t David Bowie, Mick Jagger, and Alice Cooper rock dandies of their generations? And you cannot forget Marilyn Manson and Adam Lambert, who have successfully combined feminine and masculine elements with onstage outré theatrics. If that be the case, David Z is in good company and his lists of musical accomplishment speak to his ability to find that delicate balance between performance art and skilled musicianship. “In addition to ZO2 and ZO2’s reality-based television show Z-Rock, I have been playing with the Trans-Siberian Orchestra for the past 12 years. When I started out with Trans-Siberian, we were playing small theaters and venues; now we play huge arenas like Madison Square Garden … I have played with Joan Jett and the Blackhearts. I also play with the very popular 80s tribute band Rubix Kube where I get to wear neon colors and spandex on stage … I just finished a European tour with Jeff Soto who used to sing with Journey. Yeah, you could say I stay very busy.” details David Z.

Image courtesy of Anthony Tudisco, shirt by Custo Barcelona

Shirt by Custo Barcelona, leather jeans by John Varvatos

Still, at the heart of David Z’s craft and stage acumen is his love of head banging music and fashion. “Hey, I love clothes … Believe it or not I shop a lot at Zara. It is a European look, affordable and the fit is great. But, I also love G Star, Dsquared2, Custo Barcelona, Tallia Orange, Rochambeau, and John Varvatos, who is geared toward rock n ’roll, and his shop in the Bowery is in the area where the old CBGBs was, so you cannot go wrong,” confirms David Z. “It is unfortunate when musicians don’t realize that you have to present a complete package and your look onstage and off is so important. You have to be cognizant of the fact that this is a business and people are always looking at you. KISS was my idol growing up, so early on I tapped into stage theatrics and enhancing your performance on stage and off with your wardrobe,” continues David Z.

And Rubix Kube is the perfect synthesis for David Z of the music he loves, onstage wild theatrics expressed in flashes of bold color and the manic energy found in 80s Punk. “What I love about Rubix Kube is we get to dress up on stage in crazy 80s clothes and have fun!! There are no rules for what is too much. Sometimes, I’m wearing fuchsia spandex with neon sneakers and a Mohawk,” explains David Z. “Rubix Kube does all 80s music so our Punk repertoire in that genre would be Blondie, Wendy Williams and the Plasmatics, David Byrne and The Talking Heads, Adam and the Ants, Billy Idol, Big Country, The Human League, Oingo Boingo, the Pretenders, Siouxsie and the Banshees, and Eurythmics. A lot of these bands were crossover, so our audience members recognize the music, even if they weren’t fans of Punk.”

Red shirt by Mark

David Z’s Punk leanings go beyond just 80s Punk bands; it extends also to clothes. “I love the mix of styles that pops up in Punk that can be a hodgepodge of interesting fabrics from tartans and denim to vinyl and plastic to the new aesthetic that is more sophisticated and tailored. I love the spikes and hardware. I love the fact that Punk crossed over from music and street fashion to a point of view that you now see on high-fashion runways.”

I guess you could say David Zablidowsky’s musical taste, fashion points of view and life cred could be summed up in positively expecting the unexpected. “I don’t know what every day or prime time work is. My life has be a series of unexpected opportunities … I live a charmed life.” Hmm, we should all be so lucky!!

—William S. Gooch

To view more images from the editorial shoot, click credits image below. For Full Screen click arrow at bottom right of slide.

For ANTM’s 20th Season, Kelly Cutrone’s Truth Telling Is in Rare Form

August 2, 2013 by admin Leave a Comment

In interviews, fashion publicist Kelly Cutrone—she of the razor sharp, tell-it-like-it-is observations on the fashion world—doesn’t talk like someone who is trying to deliberately shock the world. Her manner during interviews is calm and straight forward; there is no manufactured drama or artifice here. Regardless of the delivery, the drama is there. Truth telling can be that way.

Image by Angelo Agambati courtesy of the CV

Image by Angelo Agambati courtesy of the CW

Consider, for example, Cutrone’s comments last week during two conference calls for media to promote the 20^th season of “America’s Next Top Model” which begins Friday at 8 p.m. EST on the CW Network. Of course, the big news for this season is that ANTM is celebrating its big anniversary by giving its formula a spin; the competition will, for the first time, feature male contestants who will compete directly against the women as well as share living space. The judging panel, headed by supermodel and producer Tyra Banks—whom Cutrone praised effusively—will feature Cutrone and former male supermodel and boxer Rob Evans. Stylist Johnny Wujek will return as the creative consultant for the photo shoots and blogger Bryanboy will return as the show’s social media correspondent.

Image by Patrick Wymore courtesy of the CW

Cutrone, founder of the public relations firm People’s Revolution, said despite the addition of male models, the judges’ criteria for selecting weekly winners remains the same. The judges are looking for a great photo and a model that showed they could follow directions and give the photographer what he or she was looking for.

“If we’re looking for sexy, are we getting sexy? Are the shots amazing?” Cutrone said. And almost every time, Cutrone said, there was a clear cut winner. The judges rarely if ever had to choose between a great guy and a great girl; it was one or the other, she said. The inevitable flirting and friction between the models, a regular show feature since contestants must live together, had no impact on the judging Cutrone said since judges aren’t made aware of these types of issues.

Image by Patrick Wymore courtesy of the CW

The most interesting aspect, she said, was observing the different attitudes between the women and men. “Sometimes the guys forget they’re in a competition and the girls never lose sight of that,” she said. “Guys aren’t as tough as they think. Pretty soon it will be women ruling the world; that’s what you learn.”

Cutrone noted that this mirrored what she has observed in the real modeling world; male models tend to be more laid back in general, she said. And there is nothing controversial there.

Image by Patrick Wymore courtesy of the CW

However, Cutrone’s comments at another media roundtable about the fashion industry’s bias towards ultra-thin models have made headlines. According to thefashionspot.com, Cutrone blamed consumers for the fashion industry’s love affair with thinness.

“Society has a hyper emphasis on thin and that trend comes from the consumers—it does not come from the fashion industry,” Cutrone said. “The fashion industry needs to make money. That’s what we do. If people said, ‘we want a 300-pound purple person,’ the first industry to do it would be fashion.”

—Karyn D. Collins

The Shock and Awe of Project Runway Season 12

July 16, 2013 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of Lifetime Entertainment Television by Barbara Nitke

The new season of Project Runway has been making headlines already and the season hasn’t even debuted yet. Racy billboard ads showing a phalanx of nude people clambering to get towards hosts Tim Gunn and Heidi Klum were banned by the city of Los Angeles for indecency.

No, the nudes aren’t the actual 16 designers competing in season 12. But Sara Rea, the show’s executive producer and show runner, said the image is a fitting tribute to all the drama in store once the season debuts at 9 p.m. this Thursday on Lifetime.

“The billboards weren’t supposed to be a tease on the season. But they fit the unpredictability and the real shockingness of what happens this season,” Rea said. “There’s lots of drama. [Viewers’] eyebrows will be raised. It’s a very fresh, new exciting season with lots and lots of drama.”

So, what’s all the drama about this season?

Rea said huge fights between contestants, emotional breakdowns and lots of twists and turns are all on the runway this season. “It’s not anything [the producers did]. This is just a very intense group, to say the least,” explained Rea. “We had some real characters, some eccentric people, and it’s a hot bed of emotion in that workroom every single day for some reason. “We never knew what would happen. The day can start cool and calm and you never know where things are going to go. They’re just very talented and passionate. This is very intense. I mean we have an emotional breakdown in episode 2 and you usually don’t get that until (episode) six or seven.”

That’s not to say that the producers aren’t introducing some changes for Season 12. Gone is the weekly team challenge format added last season that was almost universally panned by fans (via social media) and critics. Instead, designers will once again compete as individuals (although almost every season has included at least one team challenge).

Image courtesy of Lifetime Entertainment Television by Barbara Litke

Gunn, the longtime mentor for the designers, will have an increased role this season—sitting with the judges, providing them with background information about what went on in the workroom and advocating for the designers. In another major change, Gunn will also now have the power to bring back one contestant he feels was eliminated too soon.

“He’s very honest with the judges,” Rea said of Gunn. “He is the advocate for the designers and this is a way for him to share how he feels directly with the judges.”

The most important change may be that for the first time, as a regular part of the judging process, the judges will inspect garments close up in addition to the regular runway presentation. This was something previously only done when a judge specifically requested a closer look. “This is something that naturally evolved. The judges wanted to start getting closer looks at the clothes so we would do it when they asked,” Rea said.

Other changes being introduced this season include:

New interactive onscreen chats during the show via playrunway.com each Thursday beginning at 9 p.m. EST
A Superfan contest in which seven Superfans will be selected via video submissions to appear in an episode of the show
Runway Redemption in which a designer from a past season will be selected through fan votes to get a second chance on Project Runway. That designer will be announced on Thursday’s premiere.

photo - projectrunway12#3judgesandkatebosworthsmaller

“Project Runway” judges Kate Bosworth, Nina Garcia, Zac Posen, and Heidi Klum.
Image courtesy of Lifetime Entertainment Television by Barbara Litke

Despite all of those changes, some constants remain. Klum will be joined by regular judges Nina Garcia and designer Zac Posen, who replaced designer Michael Kors on the regular judging panel last season. Kors, who according to Rea, was prevented from appearing again as a regular judge because of his busy schedule, will appear again as a guest judge. Other guest judges announced include actors Kate Bosworth, Sigourney Weaver, and Jesse Tyler Ferguson.

But as Project Runway fans know, the real stars are the designers who are tasked with producing garments, often within 24 hours. Taping began June 8; the last episode before the remaining designers were sent home to create their final collections was taped last week.

The high stakes involved with Project Runway are reflected in the prize package for the winner, estimated to be worth over a half million dollars. Prizes include $150,000 cash, $50,000 worth of technology from HP and Intel, a chance to design and sell an exclusive collection at Belk, a complete sewing and crafting studio from Brother Sewing and Embroidery; a fashion spread in Marie Claire; a $100,000 fabric allowance; a $50,000 styling contract with L’Oreal Paris, and a 2014 Lexus IS 350.

“Project Runway” season 12 designers, Helen Castillo, Jeremy Brandick, and Ken Laurence
Images courtesy of Lifetime Entertainment Television by Barbara Litke

Given the stakes to say nothing of the attention Rea was asked if perhaps some of the Project Runway drama was more manufactured made-for-television moments than actual reality. She insisted that everything on Project Runway is unscripted. The designers, she said, aren’t playing to the cameras either.

“I think the audience is sophisticated enough to know if someone is trying to play something up. The b.s. meter goes off when someone is trying to play it up. I don’t think this group is trying to be dramatic. I think they can’t help themselves,” she said. “Everything here is 100 percent real. We don’t need to tell them what to do or how to act. We put them in the situations and let them do and act as they will. We never ask them to say or do anything. It’s a hard and fast rule that I have: the moment we get involved in what they say or do we lose the integrity we have. We don’t want these designers to say anything but their own thoughts. That’s why we chose them. Our job behind the cameras is we just follow what happens. I don’t think you can make this stuff up.”

So who’s competing this season:

photo - projectrunway12#8contestantsgroupshotof15smaller

Image courtesy of Lifetime Entertainment Television by Barbara Litke

Besides the still-to-be-named designer from a past season, the season 12 designers include a hearing impaired architect/artist, an art gallery curator, a makeup artist turned Broadway costumer, and a former professional dancer turned fashion designer. Here’s the list of all of the designers for season 12:

Alexander Pope, 38 – Hometown: Los Angeles, CA; resides in New York, NY

Alexandria von Bromssen, 38 – Hometown: Stockholm, Sweden; resides in San Mateo, CA

Angela Bacskocky, 33 – Hometown: Richmond, VA; resides in Richmond, VA

Bradon McDonald, 38 – Hometown: Lowville, NY; resides in Los Angeles, CA

Dom Streater, 24 – Hometown: Philadelphia, PA; resides in Philadelphia, PA

Helen Castillo, 25 – Hometown: Weehawken, NJ; resides in Union City, NJ

Jeremy Brandrick, 41 – Hometown: Birmingham, England; resides in New York, NY

Justin LeBlanc, 27 – Hometown: Tampa, FL; resides in Raleigh, NC

Kahindo Mateene, 34 – Hometown: Goma, Democratic Republic of the Congo; resides in Chicago, IL

Karen Batts, 29 – Hometown: Boca Raton, FL; resides in Queens, NY

Ken Laurence, 24 – Hometown: Birmingham, AL; resides in Birmingham, AL

Miranda Kay Levy, 29 – Hometown: Wilton, WI; resides in Milwaukee, WI

Sandro Masmanidi, 28 – Hometown: Krasnodar, Russia; resides in New York, NY

Sue Waller, 45 – Hometown: Boston, MA; resides in Brooklyn, NY

Timothy Westbrook, 24– Hometown: Wanakena, NY; resides in Milwaukee, WI

— Karyn D. Collins

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