Features — Page 49

Fashion Reverie Bridal Exclusive: Vanessa Noel

October 12, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

October is a very special month for Vanessa Noel. The month of October is the month she opened her footwear boutique—to be exact, October 19, 1987—, and it is the month of International Bridal Fashion Week, the fall collections.

Now, you might ask why is Bridal Week important to Vanessa Noel? What you might not know is that Vanessa Noel is the only high-end footwear designer to create her own line of white silk satin bridal shoes. And she designs them beautifully!! Just speak to the long list of celebrities and world-class fashion houses that have donned her shoes or used them in their fashion collections.

“I opened my brand and my own shoe store in 1987. This is my 29^th year. Within a year of starting my company, I started making bespoke bridal shoes for individual customers. I designed Mariah Carey’s first wedding shoe, as well as bridal shoes for Valentino couture, Givenchy couture. … I have also worked with Ralph Lauren, Nicole Miller, Ralph Rucci, Loris Diran, Carolina Herrera, and I have also worked with a lot of young talent,” explained Vanessa Noel.

But, taking risks and doing something that no one else does is in Vanessa Noel’s DNA. And she has ingeniously turned those very necessary fashion characteristics and her skill and craftsmanship into a world-class business.

In spite of the innumerable design and manufacturing challenges in creating white satin bridal shoes, Noel has stayed true to her belief that a bride’s very special day should be marked by very special shoes.

“We make the collection of white shoes which means we have to clean and wipe down all the equipment in the factory. It is quite a production because white can get dirty so quickly. We even change the needles in the machines. We use round-headed needles that push the fibers away, not breaking the fibers of the fabric. When you make satin shoes it is an incredible delicate and tedious process, but I believe so wholeheartedly in the process. Remember, white satin wedding shoes are a necessity for the bride,” details Noel.

That said; a modern bride is not just getting the run-of-the-mill satin shoes from Vanessa Noel. She is getting a bridal masterpiece!!

“I design my regular shoe collection and then I decide what personality and aesthetic to bring to bridal for the season. So I decide which shoes are appropriate season-to-season that works well for bridal; whether is a bootie, a sling back or even flip flops.”

Images courtesy of Vanessa Noel

And boy does it work well!! From shoes that are embellished with fur, Swarovski crystals, beading and designed with panache and fashion-forward sensibility, Vanessa Noel’s skill and passion for bringing brides the most innovative, chic shoes in the industry is at the core of her business. “Modern brides want something that is sexy, classic, and individual. … Remember, this is the bride’s red-carpet day. … I believe if you are going to do it, you have to do it right!! You have the right to be a bride from head to toe and your feet should look and feel great.”

That is oh, so true!! And, your feet will look and feel great. The proof is in the pudding, or should I say the shoes!!

—William S. Gooch

Bridal Fall 2016 Preview

October 7, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of weddbook.com

The New York fashion calendar is always crowded. However, in recent years it seems that the fashion and event calendar has become more extensive. With the addition of men’s fashion weeks and expansion of brands showing resort and bridal collections, there is very little downtime for editors, photographers, stylists and other industry professionals.

That said; Fashion Reverie keeps our readers front row and center with all the new collections from ready-to-wear, menswear, resort and bridal. On the heels of New York Fashion Week: The Shows, International Bridal Week Fall 2016 takes place approximately three weeks later.

Image courtesy of carolinaherrera.com

Remember, brides-to-be usually select their gowns a year in advance of the wedding and bridal and fashion industry professionals are in the know of all the new trends in this 3 billion dollar industry. True-to-form, Fashion Reverie will bring our viewers are all time favorites from Ines di Santo, Amsale, Theia, and Inbal Dror. However, this season we will present a few new faces to our readers. You will have to stay tuned!!

—Staff

Fashion Reverie Exclusive: The House of Borel

October 7, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Are you tired of disposable fashion? You know bad, often inexpensive, clothes that are based on a trend that will only last one season, if that. Disposable fashion trends that misguided souls inject into their wardrobes but never really get picked up by the mass market for more than a season.

If market indications are true, discerning consumers have moved away from disposable fashion. And unfortunately, fashion’s ‘It’ girls are going to need something else to put on the Instagram and Twitter feeds than the trendiest jacket, skinny pant or accessory.

The House of Borel is positioning itself to take advantage of this new shift toward quality product that is not based on trend and consumer whims. This luxury handbag line is conceptualized, developed and designed to perfection by San Francisco–based artists. Each collection caters to the modern woman, enabling them to feel as if each handbag was made just for them

Charlotte Welch, House of Borel brand representative

Fashion Reverie was fortunate to tale to brand representative Charlotte Welch during New York Fashion Week: The Shows spring 2016. And if you love Michael Costello, the House of Borel bags are becoming a mainstay accessory in his runway shows. Spring 2016 was no exception.

Fashion Reverie: Tell me about the House of Borel and how did the brand come about?

Charlotte Welch: Our signature look is a Borel blue that we feature in a lot of our handbag designs. We are completely unbranded, meaning we like to use skins, color and the texture to brand our handbags. We don’t place our brand name or logo on the exterior because we want the actual craftsmanship of the bag and the women’s individual style to shine through. That is a big part of our design aesthetic.

The brand came about because Claire Borel wanted to create a brand that she could get behind that believes in the timeless, classic ideas around accessories. In other words, classic heirloom pieces that women would want to buy and keep in their closets because these handbags can be paired with lots of items in their wardrobe. And these classic handbags can be passed on to the next generation of friends and family.

There has been a shift in fashion away from trends that barely lasts a season, creating what fashion insiders sometimes deem ‘disposable fashion.’ We wanted quality to be the reason for the value and we wanted the pieces to timelessly speak for themselves.

FR: That said; living in a culture of disposable fashion and short-term gains, how in the House of Borel achieving market viability with timeless handbags in a fashion market that is antithetical to the core values of the company?

Charlotte Welch: We really believe in the product and we are getting a lot of traction from retailers who are looking for accessories that are timeless, have great quality, a distinctive DNA, and an authentic vibe. We are looking to launch in distinctive, specialty stores in the spring of 2016.

That said; buyers are interested in our product because consumers are demanding product that is timeless and sustainable. The new, trendy thing is not so fashionable anymore as consumers are looking for more quality and value, a product that goes beyond seasons that can be mixed and matched with a variety of garments the entire calendar year.

FR: How much would a consumer be investing in House of Borel handbags?

Charlotte Welch: It is a real investment. But the product stands the test of time because of its real value. Our product is made in factories that have been around for generations. Our bags range in price from $700–$8000. So, these handbags are for women who understand and want value. Our bags are very chic, utilitarian, and made for the modern woman’s hectic lifestyle. We have one particular bag that easily transitions from a backpack to a handbag and can hold your I-Pad and I-Phone.

FR: Are your bags seasonally transitional?

Charlotte Welch: Yes, they are. We focus a lot on color for that reason. The choice of skins, textures and richness of hues are selected to appeal to women who are looking for handbags that can go from one season to the next.

FR: What are The House of Borel signature silhouettes?

Charlotte Welch: We are really small, exclusive brand and at this point we are not mass-producing. We are creating bags that speak to a lot of different women who are looking for a variety of style, silhouettes, colors, and textures.

FR: What particular skins are signature skins to the House of Borel?

Charlotte Welch: Some of our signature skins are anaconda and crocodile. Those two textures are so unique and special for the House of Borel. We do use some exotic skins, like stingray, and we will possibly be using stingray in the future.

FR: How did the collaboration with Michael Costello come about?

Charlotte Welch: I have known Michael Costello for the last five years. I have been an assistant and stylist to his runway shows since his first appearance on “Project Runway All Stars.” I am now the Vice President of his company as well as a fashion representative for the House of Borel. Similar to the House of Borel, Michael believes in authentic fashion ideals paired with innovation. Michael trained with Bob Mackie—which is why you get his expert acuity with cutouts and illusions—and everything is handmade in his studio in Los Angeles.

Michael really believes in authenticity and beautiful silhouettes, as well as making garments that can be customized. Because there was this similar stream of consciousness between the two of us around fashion, marrying the House of Borel to Michael Costello’s design aesthetic was an easy fit.

FR: What was Michael Costello’s inspiration for his spring 2016 collection and how does your brand complement his inspiration?

Charlotte Welch: Michael’s inspiration for spring 2016 was a very confident, modern woman who is sultry and edgy, kind of like a modern-day Lauren Hutton who has a sophisticated air. She is a fierce individual who is also well rounded with lots of responsibilities.

There is a 70’s hip vibe to the collection and our handbags piggyback on the 70s aesthetic, realizing that the modern woman has a very busy day and she may need to pack her handbag for a very long day. So, you will see in the collection fierce, but feminine jumpsuits accessorized by our handbags. Our handbags will encompasses everything from power business clutches to fashion-forward backpacks to very stylish handbags in traditional silhouettes.

Image courtesy of TRC and Associates

FR: Who is your consumer?

Charlotte Welch: Our customer is a woman who has made it her life by following her passion and her own sense of style and her own identity. This woman wants a brand to reflect her lifestyle, not the other way around. She is her own brand. That said; she is not interested in monograms or logos on her clothing or accessories. And she expands a wide age demographic from early 30s and upward.

FR: Where is House of Borel available?

Charlotte Welch: House of Borel is available only online at our e-commerce store. For more information, go to houseofborel.com.

—William S. Gooch

NYFW The Shows Extra: Michael Costello Spring 2016 Sketch Match

September 23, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Michael Costello/Ernest Green

In a fashion week that was full of controversy from disgruntled editors and photographers to scheduling conflicts to renegade designers who threw their proverbial fingers up at IMG and the CFDA and opted out of showing at all, it is nice to know that the show did go on. New York Fashion Week: The Shows hitches aside there was some magnificent fashion. From gypsy-inspired Reem Acra to casually chic Greg Lauren to the sensually sophisticated collection of Michael Costello the spring 2016 collections demonstrated that many designers have their fingers on the pulse of where fashion is heading, even if some of the fashion establishment is out of step.

True to form, Fashion Reverie gives its readers those special moments that some fashion publications choose to ignore. And one of those special moments of the spring 2016 season was Michael Costello’s spectacular collection with its unique and modern perspective on 70s glam.

Images courtesy of Michael Costello/Ernest Green

Michael Costello’s team graciously shared a few sketches from the spring 2016 collection. Fashion Reverie has matched these sketches with actual images from the spring 2016 collection. We believe the sketches are a great rendering of what industry professionals could expect on the runway, Then again, you readers decide. Enjoy!!

—Staff

NYFW The Shows Spring 2016 Extra: Libertine’s Runway Find

September 21, 2015 by admin 2 Comments

Sophon Aur Image courtesy of Mitchell Sams

New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) was full of surprises. In this fashion season of change one of the unexpected but pleasant surprises was Libertine’s inclusion of a male model not from the exalted ranks of esteemed model management companies.

Neither signed with a major model management company nor looking necessarily sweet sixteen and never been touched, Libertine creative director Johnson Hartig injected a bit of fashion realness into his spring 2016 runway by including 33-year old Hudson Hotel housekeeper Sophon Aur in his model lineup. Aur had worked at the Hudson Hotel since 2003.

Hartig approached this unexpected newcomer to the runway while Aur was taking out the trash at the Libertine’s NYFW pop-up showroom at the iconic fashion staple, the Hudson Hotel. Johnson Hartig loved Aur look so much he asked Aur, “What are you doing tomorrow night?” Talk about serendipity and being at the right place at the right time!!

Image courtesy of dailymailco.uk

After a couple runway practices, Aur rocked Libertine’s spring 2016 runway show. “They told me to just walk, look straight and don’t go too fast or too slow. So that’s what I did. It’s like when someone asks you to go to a party, you go to the party,” detailed Sophon.

The star of the show, who rocked a black hoodie and leopard-print sweatpants decked with quirky images, and fluorescent slides, was a natural. “I was so proud of Sophon’s moment, I started to tear up a little,” Hartig said after the show.

Now the question is if this will be a new career for Sophon Aur or is it back to housekeeping? Time will tell!!

—Staff

NYFW Factoid: Kanye West’s Spring 2016 Scheduling Controversy

September 18, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of urbanrealist.com

New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) may be over, but some of the controversy during this fashion week of change still continues. The change of venue and the inconvenience of traversing between Pier 59, Moynihan Station, Skylight Modern Clarkson Square, and Milk Studios produced confusion, exhaustion and downright anger among many editors, photographers, and fashion industry professionals. Yet, that was not one of the biggest stories of this current NYFWS season.

The biggest controversy of NYFWS spring 2016 was Kanye West’s last minute addition to the NYFWS calendar and the outrage from designers around his presentation that conflicted with their scheduled show. This conflict was reported in publications from The New York Times, WWD, The Independent, usmagazine.com, nydailynews.com, foxnews.com, and a host of other print and online publications. Even Wendy Williams on her nationally syndicated talk show took a jab at Kanye. But, was this really a story at all?

Yeezy spring 2016 image courtesy of pmcfootwear.com

At closer examination, the ‘Kanye spring 2016 fashion controversy’ was the result of ambitious publications who want to take a ride on the Kanye publicity/social media train in a much ado about nothing controversy. Print dailies and online publications are always looking for the next big story that keeps their readers coming back for more. And in this age of extreme yellow journalism and daily content battles, everyone is looking for the next sensational story, even if the story is unjustified.

Fashion Reverie gives its readers something else. We attempt to produce well-researched content that is based on facts and real actual events that the Fashion Reverie staff has actually witnessed.

Anne Bowen spring 2016 image courtesy of hollywoodlife.com

Now, on to the ‘Kanye spring 2016 fashion controversy.’ Let’s get down to some real facts. In contrast to what has been reported in several fashion publications, Anne Bowen, one of the designers quoted as complaining about the Kanye scheduling conflict, is not an emerging designer. Bowen debuted her first collection in 1999 in Bergdorf Goodman and her gowns have been seen on red carpets at the Oscars, Golden Globes, and Cannes Film Festival.

Though Bowen did complain about the scheduling conflict, as reported in WWD, “Kanye knows he is a media sensation and it is just not ethical to do this. It’s like we are David and he is Goliath. We have put our heart and soul into our show, and should not be stepped on like this,” Bowen’s fashion audience is not Kanye’s fashion audience.

Naeem Khan spring 2016 image courtesy of thefashionspot.com

Naeem Khan, who also had a scheduling conflict with West, as quoted in WWD, actually got it right. “I am confident that the fans of the brand and those in industry who truly appreciate the art of design and craftsmanship, will come out to support us [Wednesday]. I am thrilled with the new collection and we are looking forward to a great show.”

And for all the ranting about IMG or the CFDA stepping in and forcing West to reschedule his show, there was really nothing that those governing bodies could do. Outside of venues sanctioned by IMG or the CFDA, neither governing bodies have jurisdiction over those venues. West showed his collection in at a non-sanctioned NYFWS venue.

Again, this was much ado about nothing!! The real story was the lackluster spring 2016 Yeezy collection by Kanye that very much resembled his collection last season. But, after all Yeezy is an Adidas brand and the focus, as was last season, was about the sneaks!! No surprise there.

Journalists do your research!! We always do at Fashion Reverie.

—William S. Gooch

NYFW: The Shows Spring 2016 Pre-Coverage

September 8, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Oscar de la Renta spring 2015 images courtesy of eonline.com

On the eve of New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) many fashion industry professionals are concerned about the validity and future of fashion weeks in New York City. As several well-known and established fashion photographers, editors and industry professional were rejected media credentials this season, the industry appears to be suffering from a kind of fashion malaise.

We know and understand that fashion is about innovation and change. That point of view is not in question. However, what is of concern this season is the seeming elimination of established industry professionals for what is now the unknown. The fashion industry has experienced this before. In the age of fashion blogs and online fashion media outlets, many established fashion editors were sidelined and replaced by the less experienced writers who were taking advantage of new media. There was much dissension and outrage in the industry around these new young bloods, so to speak. But, that was about eight years ago.

DVF spring 2016

That said; this new cleaning of house, so to speak, is not a repeat of that phenomenon. This new clean slate is daunting because there seems to be no real rhyme or reason behind the purge.

Still, Fashion Reverie is not going anywhere. And we will be front and center bringing our readers all the excitement of the spring 2016 season. Remember, we take viewers from the front lines of fashion to the front row.

Tommy Hilfiger spring 2015 images courtesy of fashionisers.com

And though this season may be controversial and a changing of the old guard, there are new designers and brands that deserve attention. Debut collections this season include Givenchy, West 56, Plain Tee Blue Jean, Studmuffin, Karigam, Phelan, The Harlem Globetrotters, and many others. Style 360 is back with KIA an US Weekly as sponsors with runway shows and presentation by Serena Williams for HSN, Carrie Underwood and Adam Levine. Missing this season is Venexiana, Donna Karan, Band of Outsiders and Versace Versus. However, back on the calendar is Mathieu Mirano, Lauren Conrad and Kimora Lee Simmons.

With all the new additions and returns, spring 2016 promises to be an interesting season. Stay tuned!!

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Reverie Sneak Peak: Ellery’s Pre-Fall 2015 Campaign

July 27, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of C&M Media/Jake Terry

New Zealand’s Kym Ellery’s collections always evoke moods of fantasy and mystery while stimulating mind. Fashion Reverie should know; we’ve been following the New Zealander since she first showed her 2013 Resort/Holiday collection in New York City.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Jake Terry

That said; for her pre-fall 2015 collection, Ellery looked to British music icon extraordinaire David Bowie for inspiration. She combined Bowie’s androgynous appeal and his ability to morph from slick his imperialist phase into the Ziggy Stardust of the early 1970s with strong looks that empower women.

While previous collections focused on restrained volume and an almost masculine projection, for pre-fall 2015 Ellery’s focus was on streamlined silhouettes with a stronger emphasis on the fabrications. Fabrications in this collection include opulent brocades in abstract paisley and matte lurex check, silk velvet, satin and hand-sewn, roller-pressed sequins. In contrast crisp shirting, twill suiting, angora wool and crinkle crepes create a modern and dynamic alloy.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Jake Terry

A classically monochromatic colour palette punctuates with turquoise, navy and bold metallics in dirty gold, emerald, mirrored silver and luminous black. The highlight; a smattering of ceramic glazed buttons, individually handmade by Kym’s mother, Mrs. Debra Ellery, key on the favorite tailored pieces.

Images courtesy of C&M Media/Jake Terry

Though this pre-fall collection may seem austere it is very wearable with Kym Ellery’s continued emphasis on crisp tailoring and silhouettes that strong but not overpowering.

This pre-fall 2015 campaign was photographed by Jake Terry, styled by Kym Ellery and Bridie Gilbert, and modeled by Malgosia Bela.

—Staff

New York Fashion Week: Men’s Post-Week Model Roundup

July 23, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion Reverie is committed to its loyal readers. Thanks to our readers, our coverage of New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) was a bonafide success. July is usually a slow month in the fashion industry and for most online fashion publications the viewer traffic is pedestrian, at best. However, Fashion Reverie’s traffic this July was larger than in 2014, and true to our word we are following up with information on the models we profiled in our NYFWM model preview. And though there were some inconsistencies and some missteps in this inaugural season of the CFDA–sponsored NYFWM spring 2016 season, overall this was a worthwhile and gallant attempt to put more focus on menswear.

NYFWM spring 2016 images clockwise Alexandre Plokov,Tommy Hilfiger, Robert Geller, and Todd Snyder. Images courtesy of models.com

NYFWM spring 2016 images clockwise Perry Ellis, CWST, Matiere, Ovadia & Sons. Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

As Fashion Reverie predicted, Adonis Bosso was one of the most sought-after models during NYFWM. He walked in about 12 shows ranging from Alexandre Plokov, Matiere, CWST, Robert Geller, and Lucio Castro to Tommy Hilfiger, Public School, Perry Ellis, Todd Snyder, and Ovadia & Sons. We see why you ranked in the top 25 runway male models on models.com. Adonis Bosso is signed with DNA Models.

NYFWM spring 2016 images clockwise Alexandre Plokov, Greg Lauren, Carlos Campos, Robert Geller, and Todd Snyder. Images courtesy of models.com

Wilhelmina’s Eli Hall didn’t walk in as many shows as Adonis Bosso, but he certainly made his presence known during NYFWM. Eli Hall appeared in runway shows and presentations of Greg Lauren, Alexandre Plokov, CWST, Carlos Campos, Robert Geller, and Todd Snyder. Eli has this amazing ability to look different in almost every show. That is probably why he is in demand!!

John Varvatos spring 2016. Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though he only walked in John Varvatos’ show, by closing the show—which is huge honor—Lucky Blue Smith solidified his status as one of the top male models this season. By contrast, Lucky walked in Moncler, Dsquared, Etro, Tom Ford, Balmain, Moschino, Phillip Plein, and Versace in the men’s spring 2016 shows in Europe. Life is just too good for this 17-year old. Lucky Blue Smith is represented by Next Models.

Image courtesy of thefashionisto.com

Adam Models’ Ryan Adam Smith walked in Alexandre Plokov’s spring 2016 show and made an unforgettable statement with his long platinum blonde hair. There is lots of buzz around Ryan after only two seasons.

—Staff

New York Fashion Week: Men’s Spring 2016 Sketches and Mood Boards

July 9, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Asaf Ganot sketch and mood board courtesy of Negri Firman PR

Asaf Ganot sketches and mood board courtesy of Negri Firman PR

Though many fashion designers don’t sketch their full collections anymore, there are several designers and design teams that follow that tradition of expressing inspiration, fabrication, silhouette and construction details through sketches and mood boards. Fashion Reverie has curated some sketches and mood boards from some known designers and from some not so well known.

This small sneak peak into the creative direction of the menswear collections this season is only a snippet of the brilliance to be experience during this inaugural season. But, since inquiring minds can never be satisfied, Fashion Reverie aims to please.

Since bursting onto the scene a few seasons ago, Asaf Ganot has become the new “It” guy in menswear design. Always focusing his collections on design vectors where minimalism meets luxury, the Asaf Ganot man juxtaposes controlled simplicity balanced against raw energy and feisty enthusiasm. And these two polar opposites work, expressed in an unconventional mix of fabrics and materials that exhibit Ganot’s controlled tension. For spring 2016 look to see a combination of familiar silhouettes fused through the lens of raw edges and deconstructed fabrics.

Sketches of men’s looks for spring 2016 from, clockwise from left, Greg Lauren, Public School, Thaddeus O’Neil, Orley. Images courtesy of wsj.com

Though he is the scion of Ralph Lauren, Greg Lauren’s design aesthetic is a far cry from of that of his esteemed uncle. Known for his deconstructed garments made from vintage or repurposed fabric, Greg Lauren’s menswear line in recent seasons has been getting more market play. Where his uncle consistently reflects on Americana and more specifically the American West, Greg Lauren sometimes dystopian projections combine tailored looks with deconstructed silhouettes.

Thaddeus O’Neil’s beach-bum luxury aesthetic sets him a part from most menswear designers showing during this inaugural season. Though he likes to marry his surfer boy point of view with very bold colors, the elegance of his designs make his collections assessable and approachable for many male consumers.

As the fashion industry’s wunderkinds for several seasons, Public School’s Maxwell Osborne and Dao Yi Chow have managed to fuse New York City street wear with a patina of elegance and fashion-forward sophistication. And their clothes are made in New York City!! As the anointed heirs to the Donna Karan’s DKNY line, this dynamic duo is primed for fashion greatness.

If you have a penchant for classic American sportswear, then Orley is not for you. However, if you have a predilection for irreverence and luxuriate in crazy, kaleidoscopic palettes of color, then Orley’s knitwear incarnations might just get your attention. A finalist in the 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award, this family-owned business is racking up design nominations and setting their mark on menswear.

Edmund Ooi mood board courtesy of Negri Firman PR

Edmund Ooi is one of the new kids on the block this season. And though the Belgium-based brand has only been around since 2014, this menswear brand likes to incorporate science fiction motifs into their design aesthetic of flamboyant tailoring. Finally, menswear fashion as art in New York City!!

—William S. Gooch