Social Media Influencers or Celebrities, Which Nod Brings More Value?

                      Image courtesy of shutterstock.com

Fashion is never static. And that can be a good thing. One season ruffles could be the big trend and the next season boxy shoulders and oversized jackets could be trending. The mercurial nature of fashion is expected and constant. What is not a constant, particularly in this age of technology is a fashion brand maintain and expanding its consumer base.For the past few decades, some fashion designers/brands have looked to celebrities to expand the brand’s market viability. Over twenty years ago, Elizabeth Hurley wore Versace safety pin dress, known as “THAT Dress,” demonstrating that when a popular celebrity wears a designer’s garment, the combination can give the brand more market viability. (Elizabeth Hurley was becoming an A-list celebrity with starring roles in “Four Weddings and a Funeral” and “Passenger 57.” The safety pin dress helped make Hurley and Versace household names.) Lady Gaga helped further catapult Alexander McQueen to fame by wearing many of his custom designs. And Madonna increased Jean-Paul Gaultier popularity by wearing his cone bra on her ‘Blond Ambition’ tour.

    Lady Gaga in Alexander McQueen image courtesy of vogue.com, Elizabeth Hurley in  Versace image courtesy of vogue.com, and Madonna in Jean-Paul Gaultier image courtesy    of glamour.com

Lately, Fashion Reverie and many fashion publications are pondering a difficult question: does a celebrity nod still bring value to fashion brands? That depends on how you pose the question or whose opinion matters.Some fashion brands opinions are changing as they continue to turn their attention more towards digital and social media influencers. In a recent article in WWD, it was revealed that eighty percent of brand collaborations for the first half of 2017 were co-ventures with influencers, not celebrities. As influencers continue to gain followings as large, or even in some cases larger than celebrities, companies have shifted their marketing dollars.

Images of Hailee Steinfield for Miu Miu spring 2011, Rihanna for Balmain fall 2014, and Jennifer Lawrence for Dior fall 2015 courtesy of realstylenetwork.com, justjared.com, and thefashionspot.com, respectively

That isn’t to say that celebrity presence has disappeared entirely, or that these fashion design houses will ever stop dressing celebrities, but there is a cultural and economic shift in marketing. Where some years back, A-list actress would be the first choice for store campaign, fashion brands and some fashion houses have become much more interested in Instagram partnerships with bloggers and influencers who boast six and seven figure followings.This marketing business model concentrates on the relatable factor of influencers versus celebrities to younger consumers. However, this business model doesn’t always work or having staying power. When asked, Fashion Week and editorial stylist Anthony Leroux contends, “Balmain is one example of how [celebrities] run a brand. Look at what the Kardashians did [for] it. You can just put a face on a brand and call it a day. I don’t buy clothes because of a face, so I don’t care if it’s Beyoncé or Kendall [Jenner] up there. Celebrities dilute brands.”

     Kendall and Kylie Jenner in Balmain campaign image courtesy of harpersbazaar.com

The truth is while most influencers give the impression of leading these normal, everyday lives, lives comparable to consumers, with a bit of fashion and glamour thrown in, many of them are highly compensated, and often come from affluent families or have accumulated their own wealth. As tight-lipped as the fashion industry is about the payout for collaborations and campaigns, it’s no secret these influencers are well compensated. According to a recent article in Forbes titled “Earning Power: Here’s How Much Top Influencers Can Make On Instagram And YouTube,” influencers can make up to $5000 per post, and up to $100,000 per campaign for Instagram. For Youtube, where beauty vloggers have found major influence, it’s even more, with rates going up to $300,000 for a video partnership.With the average worker earning $51, 939 yearly, the average social media influencer is earning more. Still, what is the return on investment (ROI) for these fashion brands?

           Images of influencers Chiar Ferragani, Bryan Boy, and Manny Mua courtesy of    theblondsalad.com, accessoriesmagazine.com, and youtube.com, respectively

While most brands decline to reveal how much ROI they get from influencer collaborations, according to an April 2017 Forbes article “How To Measure The ROI of an Influencer Marketing Campaign,” influencer campaigns can net 11 times the ROI of banner ads when done correctly. Influencers are also at an advantage because they can work with multiple brands to build credibility.“If you become a face of a brand like Selena Gomez for Coach, you’ll see sales rise immediately after someone like that is signed,” said Alex D’Alessio, a New York City–based advertising art director. “However, an influencer has the power to sell more types of clothes from more than just one brand because they are not signed or contracted to an exclusive deal, so more brands can work with them. Those influencers can reach millions of people with different brands, rather than one celebrity signed to one brand where the majority of those interested are already consumers of that brand.”

Images clockwise courtesy of fashiongonerogue.com, popsugar.eu, and eonline.com, respectively

Though some fashion industry professionals might disagree, social media influencers have become the new celebrities. Especially, with some influencers being known by millions of people globally, and becoming the primary association with certain brands (Marcel Floruss at Hugo Boss, hello!). And while some of the old fashion guard might not feel influencers’ fire, they have become the new go-to. Social media is the new mall and Instagram is the new billboard.— Kristopher Fraser

Fashion Reverie Model Exclusive: Michelle de Swarte

                Images courtesy of thejc.com, pinterest.com, and the uprise.org.uk

Is there a life after a successful modeling career? Just ask Cindy Crawford, Christie Brinkley, Heidi Klum, Jerry Hall, and Christy Turlington. Cindy Crawford has her skincare line; Heidi Klum has made a mint creating and producing “Project Runway,” licensing that reality fashion show around the world; Christie Brinkley has appeared on Broadway and had a reoccurring role on Parks and Recreation; Jerry Hall has married one of the richest men in the world, and Christy Turlington has a PhD.It is a given that a modeling career can be very short—lasting just a few years for most models. And while supermodels can have a career that may extend over a couple of decades, the smart ones are always looking to transition into other lines of work. Michelle de Swarte is one such top model.

Fashion Reverie first met Michelle de Swarte when she served on a recent panel discussion about mental illness and the fashion industry. Very outspoken and candid, Michelle impressed the Fashion Reverie staff with her honesty and sense of humor. We later learned that Michelle de Swarte has made that difficult transition from a career that centers primarily being seen and not heard to a career where she speaks her mind and finds humor in human behavior.

From having fashion campaigns from H&M, Burberry, Betsey Johnson, Cartier, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, MAC, Sephora, and many others to making folks laugh at everyday foibles, Michelle de Swarte is one of the few top models that have transitioned to successful careers outside of the fashion industry. And she is still building momentum.

Michelle de Swarte candidly spoke with Fashion Reverie about her life, modeling, and of course, being funny.

Fashion Reverie: How did you get into modeling?

Michelle de Swarte: I got into modeling when I was scouted. When I was about 17, a friend of mine wanted to model but it didn’t work out for her. She took me along to a casting and I got signed to a British modeling agency. I didn’t understand how the fashion industry worked at the time, so the first time around modeling didn’t really work out that well for me. I shaved my hair off and that particular agency dropped me. I thought modeling was over for me at that point.

Some years later, I bumped into a booker from Select Models at a shopping mall and she wanted to sign me. (Now, remember Select, as well as many model management companies were not interested in me when I was 17.) At any rate, I was signed to Select Models and moved on from there to Storm Model Management. I was sent very quickly to the US and in my first month in the US I booked Harper’s Bazaar and a few more things. I originally was only supposed to be in New York City for two weeks, but I loved it and stayed.

                   Images courtesy of vogue.it, pinterest.com, and runwaymayhem.com

FR: Why did you like New York City?Michelle de Swarte: I didn’t necessarily like New York, but it looked like this was going to be the first time I was going to have some sort of career as a fashion model. At that time in Great Britain—we are talking the early 2000s—there wasn’t really a career to be had for models of color, to actually live in the UK and make a living as a model. Models in the UK at that time got the odd job, but you couldn’t make a good living as a model.

FR: That is very interesting because in the US we all think of British models like Naomi Campbell and Jourdan Dunn doing very well in the United Kingdom.

Michelle de Swarte: They have, but Naomi’s fashion career is mostly in the US and other European countries. Even to this day, when has a British fashion brand hired Naomi Campbell to front their campaign? Additionally, Jourdan Dunn has made most of money in the US. UK clients came on board after Jourdan Dunn became a big success in NYC.

FR: What was your initial impression of the fashion industry when you started having a serious career as a fashion model?

Michelle de Swarte: My first impression was one of chaos. I also found it really had to get my head around things that had great relevance in the fashion industry but had very little importance to folks outside of the industry. The urgency around those fashion particulars really blew my mind and I also found very funny. But, I learned early on that to be successful I had to take the industry seriously, even if it seemed ridiculous.

FW: Could you name some of the famous fashion brands you worked with early on in your career?

Michelle de Swarte: Early on I worked for Tommy Hilfiger, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Missoni, Gap, H&M, and Versus, just to name a few.

FR: Wow, that is a very prestigious list early on in a modeling career.

Michelle de Swarte: Yes, it is. But, but at the time I wasn’t thinking about the prestige of the fashion brands. I was more excited about the paychecks.

    Images courtesy of pinterest.com, fwmagazine.com, and fashionmodeldirectory.com

FW: Who were some of your favorite designers you loved working for, and why?Michelle de Swarte: I loved working for Issey Miyake; he is one of the nicest men you will ever meet. Tom Ford was great to work with. When I first walked in his show—Tom Ford was designing for Gucci at the time—I fell three times. Tom Ford was so nice about it; he was so lovely about me falling down. This was my first runway season. I have also worked with some really nice photographers, like Steven Meisel.

FR: I know that this is a taboo subject in the fashion industry, but could you talk about the kind of money you and other models were making at the start of your career?

Michelle de Swarte: I remember a booking agent telling me once after I booked one of my first jobs that I had to go out and purchase an expensive handbag. I couldn’t understand why this was necessary for my career. This bag was going to cost about $2000 and I had just gotten a check for $5000, and I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on a designer bag. The agent explained to me that it takes money to make money. In other words, I had to look like I was making a lot of money to book the jobs that paid well.

That is one of the reasons that a lot of models don’t want to talk about what they’re really making. They want to appear as though they are making more than they actually are to keep their day rate up.

Magazine editorial rates at magazines are quite low; you are fortunate if you get paid $250. If you are walking in a show and getting $10,000 to walk in that show, if you are from another country, you are lucky if your take home pay is $4000 after they take out taxes, other deductions, and agency fees. A new model coming to NYC from another country is lucky if she is making $30,000 her first year.

When I first came to NYC, I helped out a lot of model friends financially because I was booking a lot of commercial jobs that paid very well, while some of my model friends were booking editorial jobs that don’t pay well. A good example of this is a friend of mine that was seen everywhere. She had tons of editorial work and really had her moment. However, she wasn’t paid well because most of her work was editorial work. She only had one big commercial campaign that was a Jean-Paul Gaulthier fragrance campaign.

How a lot of new models, particularly from other countries, survive in NYC the first few years is getting money advances from the model management companies. The advances keep you in debt to the management companies, plus they charge you interest on your debt—5% to 15%. The model management companies now charge models for everything, from test shots to comp cards, travel expenses to everything. When I first got in the industry at least test shots were free of charge.

FR: In your experience, what fashion brands did you not have a good experience with?

Michelle de Swarte: There were not many. I have had an all-around good experience for the most part. I had a great experience with photographer Terry Richardson, but a lot of models can chime in on that. My experience with Dolce & Gabbana (D&G) was not great because they can be very rude.

I walked in a show for D&G and later shot a lookbook for the brand. For D&G, the hair and makeup team picked the models that they wanted to work with. Being a model of color, I was the last one picked. It felt like being in a gym class and picking sides. The makeup artist who got stuck with me was angry because none of his makeup matched by complexion. He didn’t know how to style my hair. My hair ended up looking like tumbleweed or a bowl of oatmeal with no water. Because my hair and makeup looked horrible, D&G didn’t want to pay the agency fee for my services.

FR: You have always been outspoken, where does that come from?

Michelle de Swarte: Maybe my being outspoken came from my being from South London; maybe it came from starting modeling at the age of 20, which is considered a late start. I never put all my eggs in one basket, realizing that a modeling career can be very short. Now, I can say what I want and it doesn’t affect my career.

FR: You have transitioned from modeling to hosting television programs and doing stand-up comedy. Why that transition?

Michelle de Swarte: In my late 20s I became really aware that I didn’t have a formal education and I wanted to do some other things. I had always been told that I was funny. Now, being told that you are funny in the fashion industry doesn’t necessarily translate to being funny in the regular world. Still, I thought I would give comedy a go.

I started doing stand-up comedy in NYC. I found an agent and I now do standup in the UK and the US. Stand-up comedy doesn’t rely on the way you look. In fact, being easy on the eye doesn’t help you at all in stand-up.

                            Images courtesy of youtube.com and kmestudio.com

FR: Could you talk about some of your stand-up gigs?Michelle de Swarte: I have done stand-up on the BBC and I have appeared on Comedy Central.

FR: But you still model.

Michelle de Swarte: Yes, I do. Modeling is like a bad boyfriend you have a good time with. You talk about leaving, but when a great job comes along, you dust off your heels and dive right in. I am still on Wilhelmina Models board, so the work still comes in.

FR: What’s next for you?

Michelle de Swarte: I have been a part of Gloria Steinem’s initiative “Woman with Gloria Steinem,” I am still a part of that. And I am continuing to write and do stand-up.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

 

Fashion Reverie’s 2017 Black Friday/Cyper Monday Roundup

                                            Image courtesy of Getty Images

In this season of uncertainty, political unrest and a down retail market, nothing perks up the spirits better than market wide sales. And there is better opportunity to take advantage of these sales than on Black Friday/Cyper Monday.As an introduction to the holiday shopping season, Black Friday dates back to the early 1960s when in Philadelphia there was some much foot and vehicle traffic the day after Thanksgiving that the highways and downtown sidewalks in Philadelphia were disrupted by the heavy shopping traffic. Since 2005 Black Friday has been the busiest shopping day of the holiday season, though in 2014 spending volume fell for the first time in ten years.

That said; Fashion Reverie has assembled a list of great holiday finds that will keep you in the festive spirit and not break the bank.

                                              Images courtesy of fashionisers.com

Tadashi Shoji has been the business for over 40 years, and is a favorite of celebrities from former FLOTUS Michelle Obama, Sheryl Lee Ralph, M’onique, Heather Graham, Supermodel Miranda Kerr, Octavia Spencer, Mena Suvari, Regina Hall, and many others. Tadashi has been a first in several categories and the depths of his experience in the fashion industry ranges from making stage costumes for The Jacksons and Earth, Wind, and Fire in the 1970s to dressing M’onique for her Academy Award win. Tadashi was also one of the first designers to expand his ready-to wear line to include plus sizes.For this holiday season, Tadashi Shoji is a great choice for a wide range of women looking for feminine designs in ready-to-wear, evening wear and bridal that are modern, fresh and figure flattering for all sizes, from petite to plus. For Black Friday, Tadashi Shoji is offering his collections at 40% off (exclusions apply) at Tadashi Shoji Boutiques (King of Prussia Mall, PA; Tysons Galleria, VA; Valley Fair Mall, CA; South Coast Plaza, CA; Fashion Show Mall, NV). This great discount extends through Cyper Monday online.

Ok, you may think sunglasses are only for warm and tropical locations; not so. Sunglasses are currently trending very strong and can be worn during all seasons.

        Images courtesy of Rogers and Cowan PR

Privé Revaux Eyewear was built on a shared passion for style and quality with the goal of making it accessible in ways never seen until now. Serial entrepreneur David Schottenstein took aim at disrupting the eyewear market, and he enlisted an elite team around him to ensure the brand’s success. With the help of celebrity visionaries Jamie Foxx, Hailee Steinfeld, Ashley Benson, as well as VP of Celebrity Relations Dave Osokow and Creative Directors Rob Zangardi and Mariel Haenn, they’ve done just that. For Black Friday/Cyper Monday, Privé Revaux has a couple of deals for the savvy consumer. Buy 3 pairs of sunglasses for $75 (no checkout code needed on PriveRevaux.com). Buy 4 pairs of sunglasses and a face case for $150 (no checkout code needed on PriveRevaux.com). And on November 27 only, 15% off all single or double product purchases on PriveRevaux.com (no check out code needed).

                                             Images courtesy of tobi.com

Are you are millennial or Generation Y and looking for great holiday deals but the pockets are not as deep as they were last season? Ready. Set. Go, Tobi.com to the rescue.With 50% to 70% off of product sitewide, you cannot go wrong with the wide range of product on the site.

TOBI been bringing West Coast style and laid back attitude to over 1.5 million TOBI babes since 2007.TOBI is fast-paced, forward thinking, and fashion centered at its core, and our products are designed and curated in the heart of LA, with these ideals in mind. We strive to bring customers the trendiest fashions.

Fashion Reverie has a couple of TOBI faves, which include their Vienna velvet wristlet clutch, the back-me up, halographic mobile charger, and TOBI’s holiday dresses.

If you are a fashionista, there is a constant thirst for fashion-forward clothing that most stylish folks cannot get their hands on. Well, if that is you, Fashion Reverie has the perfect solution for you. On this Black Friday/Cyper Monday the prices will be greatly reduced.

                                         Images courtesy of anyoldiron.com

Any Old Iron opened on the Lower Eastside of Manhattan eight years ago and exclusively carried the music-inspired collections of Vivienne Westwood, Religion, Taschen, Tatty Devine, Bolongaro Trevor, Sons of Heroes, Horace, and many others. In 2015, Any Old Iron moved to Nashville, Tennessee, connecting to the music community in Nashville.For Black Friday/Cyper Monday Any Old Iron is offering 80%–90% off of original prices in the store or online. Enter code SHAZAM at checkout. Rock on!!

OK, you have the office party or holiday party coming up, right around the corner. No matter how great your holiday ensemble looks if your makeup is out of sorts, it’s a lost opportunity.

Image courtesy of Rogers and Cowan PR

Created more than 25 years ago, Palladio is renowned for its line of color cosmetics enriched with herbs and vitamins. Fashioned for women with all types of skin, Palladio helps you look radiant while helping protect your skin from the signs of aging. With a diverse selection of products and shade availability, Palladio allows you to create the variety of looks you desire. Palladio is a fun, pretty, exciting brand and users are loyal and happy to use the product! Among the ingredients used in Palladio products are antioxidants such as Ginseng, Green Tea, Gingko Biloba, Vitamin E and natural humectants and skin soothers such as Aloe Vera and Chamomile.

For Black Friday through Cyber Monday (Nov. 24–27): 30% off site wide with code: BLACKFRI on palladiobeauty.com.

—Staff

Designer Fallout: The Fashion Industry’s Revolving Door

Riccardo Tisci, Donna Karan, and Francisco Costa images courtesy of BDBhphotos.com, bostoncommon-magazine.com, and vogue.com, respectively

Elbaz leaves Lanvin; Tisci exits Givenchy; Donna Karan bows out at her namesake fashion brand, and after 15 years Costa bids adieu to Calvin Klein. What’s going on here? Has the top creative position at legendary fashion houses/brands become a revolving door of sorts?Apparently so, if you look at the designer fallout at major brands in the last five years, not to also mention fashion designers who have been eased out of their eponymous brands. With all the Russian roulette on in the fashion industry, one would think there is lots of inside information that’s being shared. Well, it’s not that insidious!!

Not so long ago, fashion designers solidly ensconced themselves at major fashion houses for as long as they wanted to reign at these hallowed fashion institutions. Fashion visionaries created these iconic fashion houses, and it was an honor and privilege to helm the houses of Dior, YSL, Balmain, Lanvin, Chanel, Givenchy, Balenciaga, and others. And though tenure at these fashion posts was occasionally short-lived, most designers maintained their positions for several seasons. Tom Ford began working at Gucci in the early 90s and was creative director from 1994–1999. John Galliano was creative director at Christian Dior from 1996–2011. And Francisco Costa manned the helm at Calvin Klein for over fifteen years.

Raf Simons, Public School, and Hedi Slimane images courtesy of highsnobiety.com, Industry Magazine, hashtaglegend.com, clockwise respectively

Well, that is history and no longer the standard at many iconic fashion houses. Lately, it seems that designers are leaving fashion houses in rapid succession. Bouchra Jarrar, who was named artistic director of Lanvin last year, replacing Alber Elbaz, was quickly ousted after she failed to turn a fast upturn in profit. (It should be noted that Alber Elbaz was creative director at Lanvin from 2001–2015 and many credit Elbaz with restoring the Lanvin, the first fashion house in Paris, to its former glory.) Raf Simons was at Dior for only three years; Nicola Formichetti worked at MUGLER for only two years; Public School barely lasted a year at DKNY, and Hedi Slimane directed Saint Laurent from 2012–2016.In contrast to diminishing profits, there are designers who can turn fashion houses into mega million-dollar power players, and still find themselves out of a job. Phoebe Philo at Céline is one such example. Philo, who took the company’s revenue from $235 million to $800 million, is expected to exit Céline by the end of 2017.

Some industry professionals find it odd that Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH)—the holding company for many European fashion houses, including Celine—would discard a fashion designer who quadrupled sales and made Céline a more recognizable name in the US. The reason why these turn of events is happening so frequently is hard to answer. Are there outside influences forcing the hands of big holding companies like LVMH and Kering?

                   Images clockwise courtesy of V magazine and vogue.com, respectively

“In the fashion world loyalty used to account for much and was an integral part of doing business, but with changes in society at large (not only the fashion industry) from the consumer to the designer, loyalty has not withstood the test of time,” says Michael Londrigan, vice president of academic affairs at LIM College. “Whether it is loyalty to the designer or the designer to the company, this virtue has been greatly diminished, accounting for much of the musical chairs that we see. Add to that the notion that you are only as good as your last show, the tolerance for staying with the same designer has been greatly reduced with everyone chasing the consumer and their pocketbooks. No longer are designers at the top held to strict contracts with long term and non-compete clauses, designers are putting personal choice ahead of the customer and the company.”The turnaround at publicly traded companies is even more frequent because stockholders demand exponentially high sales increases from quarter to quarter which can be stifling to designers’ creativity. (In his last seasons at Lanvin, Elbaz couldn’t turn the profit Lanvin’s investors were hoping for, so he was out.)

For many shoppers who were loyal to the design aesthetic of these designers, the turnover has been unsettling. “Regarding Phoebe Philo at Céline, I don’t think she should go, because her bags are sublime,” says Frederick Frost, a stylist and blogger in Venezuela. “Her aesthetic is romantic and chic, but at the same time, it’s all about the business. Perhaps, the brand owners want a new direction; perhaps, [Philo] will start [an eponymous] brand. There are many factors that influence these situations.”

                         Images courtesy of vinylmag.com, and vogue.com, respectively

In the wake of Christopher Bailey leaving Burberry, the company is adopting an interesting strategy. As part of their new repositioning, Burberry plans on reinventing themselves as a super luxury brand in the mold of Gucci and Dior. While Burberry was a must-have brand some season ago, they have lost ground to similar brands looking to appeal to young consumers with deep pockets.Some designers at legendary fashion houses leave of their own accord, wanting to establish their own fashion labels. Unlike in previous decades in which designers would have their own eponymous lines while helming other fashion brands—case in point, Karl Lagerfeld having his own namesake brand while being creative director at Chanel and Chloe, and the same with Galliano while he was at Dior—the pressure to create 5 to 7 collections a year, as well as collaborations is too much of a creative drain. “A lot of these folks have built a name for themselves, and ready to branch out into something that would enhance their brand more,” says Ikponmwosa Edo, stylist and style editor at Fashion360Mag.

This was the case for Peter Dundas, the former creative director of Roberto Cavalli, who went on to launch his own brand to the fanfare of the entire fashion industry. For other designers, the never-ending fashion cycle ends up burning them out. After he was ousted from Lanvin, Elbaz made a notorious critique of the industry cycle, discussing how the over-extension is creatively exhausting.

“The reason most designers, I feel, leave their brands is the growth rate of the brand and not enough inspiration within the fashion design house,” explains Chris Lavish, artistic director of Fashion Week Online. “The acceleration in the pace of the fashion world has sky rocketed; propelling new designers into the spotlight faster, like Demna Gvasalia and Vetements, and well-seasoned designers, such as Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent out.”    

               Images courtesy of woolmarkprize.com and elle.co.uk, respectively

While Phoebe Philo, Christopher Bailey, and Alber Elbaz brought more market saturation to Celine, Burberry, and Lanvin, respectively, today’s consumer spending tastes have changed. In an era of social media, stagnant wages, and shifts in culture, building a brand’s value goes beyond the opinions of key fashion editors, celebrities, and advertising budgets. Still, one has to ask if this revolving door of fashion designers is the answer to an over-saturated market with ever-evolving consumer wants and needs. Only time will tell.— Kristopher Fraser and William S. Gooch

Fashion Reverie’s ‘Movember’ Giveaway

It’s Movember! November is when men across the globe stop shaving for the entire month in recognition of Men’s Health Awareness. That’s right; their beards and mustaches stay untrimmed for the full 30 days. (Mustache + November = Movember. Get it? Got it? Good.)

We know our Fashion Revelers are a busy bunch, and it’s sometimes difficult to keep those face follicles in line. So in support of our readers, and their beards, during their Movember marathon, Fashion Reverie is giving away one complete Beard Care Travel Kit by Mountaineer Brand. The kit comes with beard wash, beard balm, and beard oil, as well as a military-style beard brush, all in a handy dopp kit. Mountaineer Brand products are 100% natural and made in West Virginia—home of real mountain men.

                                 Image courtesy of Mountaineer Brand

To enter for your chance to win, simply post your best beard picture on your Instagram page and tag @FashionReverieMag and hashtag #FRBeard. On November 30th, we will award the travel kit to the guy with the most likes. And don’t forget to visit Fashion Reverie’s 2017 men’s fall grooming article.So guys, get to posting. Ladies, get to liking. Everyone, for more information on Movember, go to http://us.movember.com.

—Staff

 

New York International Bridal Week Fall 2018 Sketches


There is no doubt that New York Fashion Week: The Shows Spring 2018 was a lackluster excursion into an aimless ménage of fashion for the uninitiated. There were a few exceptions, namely Bibhu Mohapatra, Vivienne Tam, Marchesa, Anna Sui, and a few others.

That said; with New York International Bridal Week (NYIBW) fall 2018 only a few days away there is the expectation among fashion industry professionals that there will be more sophistication and fashion-forward beauty. As it should be; we are talking about visions in white, off-white, and pale pastels.

As a part of Fashion Reverie’s NYIBW fall 2018 pre-coverage, whetting our viewers’ fashion appetite, we present a few bridal fall 2018 sketches. Will the real-time collections live up the sketches? Stay tuned, and find out!!

                           Image courtesy of THEIA

THEIA is always a Fashion Reverie favorite. We have covered THEIA’s bridal collections for eight seasons and true to form, THEIA never disappoints. For fall 2018 the THEIA bride is becoming increasing more daring. The Theia bridal customer is moving away from boho with the look becoming sexier. There are lots of illusion bodices, plunging necklines, bare backs and nude linings, but paired with THEIA’s soft romantic Spanish tulle or silk satin flowing ball skirts. THEIA’s signature beading will continue in form fitting sexy silhouettes made new with 3-D floral embroideries that are light weight, yet sparkle with glass and crystal.

                              Image courtesy of Atelier PR

There are a couple of first-timers to Fashion Reverie’s bridal pre-coverage. Though we have covered Reem Acra’s women’s ready-to-wear collections, we have never been privileged to cover Reem Acras bridal collections.For fall 2018 Reem Acra was inspired by something pretty, something delicate, and something floral, all seen through the lens of saintly spirits.

                                               Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Lakum is completely new to Fashion Reverie. Known for their architectural creations, according to co-creative director Zaha Hadid, the brand’s fall 2018 collection was inspired by, ”form and space are woven within structure.”—William S. Gooch

 

 

Fashion Reverie NYFW: The Shows Spring 2018 Giveaway “Watch Ya Mouth”

Image courtesy of Watch Ya Mouth

Image courtesy of Watch Ya Mouth

Everyone loves a good laugh, and there is nothing funnier than all the crazy fashion you witness during New York Fashion Week. Every season Fashion Reverie reviews all the crazy street fashion with our “Dippity Don’t” posts. This season in addition to our “Dippity Don’t” posts, Fashion Reverie is offering a giveaway bundle prize from “Watch Ya Mouth” board games.

“Watch Ya Mouth” is the #1 mouthpiece board game.  Uh, yea you heard me right, the # 1 board game. Slap a mouthpiece in your pie hole, flip the timer, grab a card, and get ready to read some of the most dim-witted, moronic phrases you’ve ever laid eyes on. Your partner has to guess what you’re saying as many times as possible in 1-minute. Just try not to laugh too hard.

To enter, you must attend New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) spring 2018 and take pictures of fashion folks in crazy garb. Send the images with your Instagram URL to giveaway@fashionreverie.com. Also, post the image on your Instagram page. We will also post the image in Fashion Reverie’s “Dippity Don’t” posts. The Instagram post with the most likes will receive a bundle giveaway from “Watch Ya Mouth.”

A couple of rules 1) the image must be from the current NYFWS spring 2018 season; 2) you must blur out the face of the person in the image 3), and you must submit and post by September 14.  This giveaway contest runs from September 7–14. Let’s bring the fun back to Fashion Week!!

—Staff

See links below of “Dippity Don’t’s” from previous seasons:

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fashionreverie.com/?p=16785

 

New York Fashion Week: The Shows Spring 2018 Sketches

No matter who your favorite designers/brands are; their impressive collections come from a very focused perspective and inspiration. And though the art of sketching may be a quickly evaporating facet of the fashion industry due to the expanding frontier of technology, there are still some designers that sit down with pen and paper—and in some cases stylo and Thinkpad—and begin the process of designing their collections season after season.

Leanne Marshall spring 2018

Leanne Marshall spring 2018

“Project Runway” is the not only place who will witness the sketches of great collections, at Fashion Reverie every season we also curate sketches for the upcoming season. And even though the retail market is constricting, the inspiration and the brilliant design acuity continues.

Since her stint and win on “Project Runway,” Leanne Marshall has been a constant presence during New York Fashion Week. This season Marshall’s theme was the “Green Diamond Wall.” And Marshall’s “transportation to the other side of the green diamond wall” will contain her signature aesthetic of eco-friendly, restrained volume expressed through diaphanous fabrics. Additionally, there will possibly be a nod to futuristic projections. Fashion Reverie cannot wait to report on Leanne Marshall’s spring 2018 collection.

Collages1412Dan Liu has presented at New Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFSW) for several seasons. And for the spring 2018 season, Liu looked to the solitude of the seaside for inspiration.

“People say, “Smell the Sea, Feel the Breeze, Hear the Ocean, Be at Ease”… which is true and I love the way how people feel about beaches and sea breeze, but to me, it’s a lot more than that.  To me, it is okay to be sad in life, it’s okay to be hurt in love, and it’s fine only the ocean is there to be with me … because to me, “feeling” is much more important than other senses that we have.  Yes, our eyes can see and ears can hear, but I’d rather “feel” because by feeling, even though I’m all alone and sad in the beach, I know the Sun will eventually warm me up, the sand will comfortably soap my feet, and certainly, see breeze will give me a hug thru inside out. No one wants to be sad and lonely… and no one loves failure … but this is the only way we can live our lives completely and feel alive when we search our feelings with our soul,” detailed Liu.

Collages1411“Beauty in the chaos” is the theme for Jarel Zhang’s spring 2018 collection. Launched in 2017, Jarel Zhang’s work has a minimalist approach rooted in an independent urban aesthetic. For spring 2018, Zhang drew inspiration from the chaos, construction, and movement of the New York Streets. He found beauty in the chaos and the structure. This Jarel Zhang’s debut at New York Fashion Week: The Shows.

Known primarily for their fashionable timepieces, Galitscopio’s brand also includes accessories and garments. In its debut season at NYFWS, Galitscopio’s theme is “a time to shine.”

All sketch images courtesy of the Riviera Agency

All sketch images courtesy of the Riviera Agency

Galitscopio brilliantly styles new apparel fusing elements of bezel design with fashion. Independence, conviction, gentility and sophistication are the main qualities among the myriads of different characters of city ladies. The new collection provides versatile choices for ladies of different characters in different lifestyle scenarios, whether work, play or otherwise. Femininity in GALTISCOPIO style always ensures mesmerizing elegant exquisiteness, adding more glamorous flair for the ladies this spring and summer, TIME TO SHINE!

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

 

New York Fashion Week: The Shows Spring 2018 Pre-Coverage

 

Images courtesy of eonline.com

Images courtesy of eonline.com

New York Fashion Week: The Shows spring 2018 (NYFWS) season is only a week away, and many fashion pundits are asking the question if fashion weeks are still relevant. With so many designers opting out of NYFWS spring 2018 season this time around, the verdict is out on the need for fashion weeks. And with the retail market depressed globally, there is a lot of uncertainty in the fashion industry.

Technology has changed so much in the lives of most people, and in the fashion community technology, for some, has become more than a tool. For a significant amount of fashion industry professionals, technology is the order of the day. With some fashion showrooms proffering digital accessibility—which includes models—to their clients, the need for personnel is decreasing dramatically.

For NYFWS spring 2018 season this technology has facilitated many brands deciding to show collections online in real time. Though this new development is cost efficient, it does diminish the excitement and vibrancy of actual shows. Add to that the absence of Monique Lhuillier, Rodarte, Ralph Lauren, Nicholas K, Loris Diran, Charles Harbison and other from the NYFWS calendar, this season may not excite hearts and minds.

Images courtesy of fashionisers.com

Images courtesy of fashionisers.com

Still, the fashion community soldiers on with new names to the fashion week roster, as well as some interesting initiatives. The CFDA is partnering with LIFEWTR, showcasing three emerging designers from their CFDA + educational program. Rihanna is presenting her FENTY collection; there will be a showcase of Indonesian designers, and Skylight Clarkson and Pier 59 will present over 60 plus shows.

Fashion Reverie will be front and center bringing its viewers expansive coverage over the seven days of NYFW: The Shows. Let  creativity continue!!

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Reverie Interview: Jill Dodd’s “The Currency of Love”

Currency_Love_bookSome call it fickle finger of fate; others explain circumstances as acts of divine intervention; still, there are those who try to find the cause and effect of everything. Whatever the situation or outcome, one can discern from Jill Dodd’s memoir “The Currency of Love” that life’s journey has many paths and detours, and it’s all about how you adapt to change.

From a fashion model to the love interest to the richest man in the world to a fashion maven, Jill Dodd’s life has truly been an adventure. Through it all, Jill Dodd persevered the peaks and valleys with courage, humor and a lot of good fortune. In “The Currency of Love” Jill Dodd details the rocky road, but she also details the glamour, the glitz and the good times.

Fashion Reverie was fortunate to talk with Jill Dodd about the vicissitudes of her life.

Jill Dodd

Jill Dodd

Fashion Reverie: Why this book at this time?

Jill Dodd: I have known I was going to write this book since I was in my 20s in the 1980s. A lot of people tried to talk me out of writing this book. Many of them thought it was too dangerous to tell all these stories and talk candidly about my experiences in fashion and in life. In spite of the opposition, I knew one day I would write this book.

I have been through a lot in my life. I have been bad relationships and an abusive marriage. I now have three children. I have been so busy being a single parent and running these fashion companies that there was no time to tell my story.

When I turned 50 I asked myself what I wanted to do that I had not yet done. And I knew it was the book. So, I put my nose to the grindstone, so to speak, and started putting 100% of my energy into this book. I worked on it every moment I had.

I do think this book is appropriate for the time with so many young people being infatuated with fame and money because of the Kardashians and all the media attention on wealth. I wanted to show the behind scene of the modeling industry; what it is really like behind all of that, and that the wealth and fame alone doesn’t fulfill you.

FR: Were you aware that at around the time this book was published, on the same date in fact, Adnan Khashoggi died? Was that a planned consequence?

Jill Dodd: It was really an unplanned consequence. I was looking forward to celebrating my book publication date and that morning I found out he had passed away. I was in shock for a whole week and that same night of his death I had to speak at a bookstore in Northern California at my book launch.

Jill_Dodd_The_Currency_of_LoveFR: Now, you started out as a mostly commercial swimsuit and lingerie model in California and not soon after you signed with Wilhelmina Model Management you decided to go to Paris and expand your opportunities. Why Paris, and did your opportunities expand?

Jill Dodd: Well, I did every type of modeling you could do in California at that time. We are talking about the late 1970s. California in the late 70s was the center of active sportswear, denim, tee shirts, and casual clothing. I did all the things you could do in California at that time, from print ads to modeling on news shows, to small non-speaking parts on television. At that time there was no high fashion in California. The only high fashion thing I did at that time was modeling in a runway show for Perry Ellis.

When I signed with Wilhelmina Model Management in Los Angeles, I quickly learned that in order to model in New York City and work for brand name American designers and the big fashion magazines I had to work in Europe first. Without the European tear sheets from French Vogue or Elle, the New York modeling agencies are not really interested in developing you as model. That was the traditional route at that time.

FR: At first you hated Paris, but in a short amount of time you grew to love Paris. How did your relationship with Paris change over time?

Jill Dodd: When I got to Paris in 1980, I didn’t speak a word of French. And in the early 80s the French were closed off and not very friendly to tourists and outsiders. No one would help you or explain anything to people who couldn’t speak French properly. The creature comforts in Paris were well below what I was used to in the US. It was hard to find warm water to bathe in; there was no heat in my hotel. It was hard to get food that was healthy because I didn’t have a kitchen in my hotel room. When you are modeling, you can gain weight easily on bread and cheese; however, bread and cheese were the cheapest things to purchase when you had no cooking facilities.

Also, it took longer than I expected to establish myself in Europe. I thought I would be in all the big European magazines in a few months. Well, it didn’t turn out that way. Over time I did fall in love with Paris because I learned to speak French. I learned that the French people are wonderful; once they realize you are not going anywhere, they really open up to you!!

Jill_Dodd_OlympeFR: In the early 80s a lot of European brands and design houses were becoming more attracted to an All-American beauty that was not just blonde American models. You were a part of that new breed. Why this shift in European taste, and do you believe this shift added to your success?

Jill Dodd: Let’s not glamorize the European fashion market in the early 80s. When I arrived in Paris there were no Asian and Hispanic models working, and only a few African American models that worked steadily.

The Europeans wanted an American look, but what they thought of as an American look was very Nordic. You know, tall, willowy blondes with blue eyes and big white teeth. They really wanted a look that came out of Hollywood; you know Cheryl Tiegs or Cybill Shephard.

I always had the healthy, California lifestyle look. I was sporty and athletic and that look was gathering steam in the early 80s, a whole industry around health was developing at that time. Self magazine had just started. You know Jane Fonda’s workout tapes and Olivia Newton-John’s “Physical” song. I believe that was my appeal. I landed the first cover of Paris’ version of Self entitled Olympe.

FR: What were some your favorite fashion brands you work with in Europe?

Jill Dodd: I worked with all the major European swimwear companies. I wore Kenzo, Jean-Claude Luca, Yves Saint Laurent, and Chanel in fashion editorials. I did a lot of runway shows, but mostly second-tier European designers. Many of the major fashion houses thought my hips were too wide for their design aesthetic. They wanted a size 0 and I was more a size 2 or 4.

Collages1408FR: Could you name one standout fashion moment in Paris for you?

Jill Dodd: The most memorable fashion moment was modeling on a scaffold in front of the Eiffel Tower with 12 other models, all in couture garments. Also, memorable was doing an editorial for Jardin de Mode.

FR: From the book we know how you got involved with Adnan Khashoggi. Now without giving so much away, what was the initial attraction?

Jill Dodd: I was attracted to his intellect and his spirit of fun. When I was dancing with him the first night I met him, I felt we had a spiritual connection that I hadn’t felt with anyone.

FR: You were always striving for independence; yet, you got into a dependent relationship with Adnan Khashoggi, why?

Jill Dodd: I was not in a dependent relationship with Adnan. I would not let him take care of me. I continued to model through the length of our relationship that was a little under two years. I refused any large gifts from him or him buying me a home. I insisted on living on my own through the entire relationship.

He did offer to pay my college tuition at FIDM and I accepted that. He wanted me to educated because he thought modeling was not a respectable profession. That is the only large gift I accepted from him.

Modeling, initially, was a way for me to earn money to go to fashion design school. I got so distracted by modeling that I forgot about my initial goals for a while. Adnan really helped put me back on track.

Collages1409FR: Even though Adnan, called you a pleasure wife, when did you realize you were really in a modern-day harem?

Jill Dodd: I was denial and didn’t realize until years later that I had been in a modern-day harem. I had trained myself to accept the things I could accept at the moment and keep moving toward financial independence. I put my own feeling aside because I was in love with him and I wanted to be with him at any cost. I needed him emotionally and I didn’t care what came with the relationship.

Remember, he was very, very kind to me. When he told me he wanted me to be his pleasure wife, I didn’t want to understand what that meant. I didn’t care about the details and I felt that way for a long time. However, over time reality started to set in that he had multiple wives and girlfriends. And, that started to bother me.

FR: Now your book ends in the early 1980s, why?

Jill Dodd: I wanted to book to have more focus and present an in-depth look at the time all these things were happening to me. If I had taken “The Currency of Love” into present day, I could not have delved deep into all the topics and culture of the 1980s. The book would have read like a Wikkipedia page.

After Adnan I had two abusive marriages; I was a single mother, and I ran several fashion companies. I thought this was too much to put into one book. So, I settled on my life before the marriages. I wanted the book to read like an adventure story instead of a bunch of facts.

FR: When and how did you start the women’s beach surfer brand, Roxy?

Jill Dodd: I started working at Jag swimwear in 1987. They had one designer there before I started working there. She left and I built that brand to 17 million dollar brand in my tenure there I wasn’t happy with my Jag salary and I was getting offers from other companies because of my success. I wrote to several men’s surf wear brands and told them a wanted to start a women’s division of their brand. I was contacted by Quicksilver and they hired me to start Quicksilver women’s division that over time evolved into Roxy. We had 20 different international licensees globally.

All images courtesy of Jill Dodd

All images courtesy of Jill Dodd

FR: What do you want readers to get from “The Currency of Love”?

Jill Dodd: I want to encourage people to follow their passion and live within their own integrity. I want to people to know that life can throw you some curves and knock you down; however, you have to soldier on because you never know what’s next. I hope women get from this book that they should live in their own truth and not be ashamed.

I also want people to think about an alternative source of strength. I know that I reach the end of myself all the time, and there are times we need to surrender to a higher power and ask for help. And that surrender has gotten me through some rough times.

FR: What’s next for you?

Jill Dodd: I am marketing “The Currency of Love” by doing interviews and speaking at book clubs. I have a piece coming out on 60 Minutes in Australia very soon. And I have speaking engagements in Great Britain, Germany, and France.

“The Currency of Love” is published by Enliven Books, a division of Simon and Schuster.
—William S. Gooch

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