With Malan Breton you can always expect show. And that is what he delivered for his spring 2026 collection. Still, after two decades of presenting collections during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) you would assume that Breton would understand that less is more.
In this spring 2026 collection, Malan Breton did not get the memo. Though there were some stunning garments in this collection, at times there were too many ideas, some which conflicted with Malan Breton’s inspiration. Malan Breton should have remembered what the great Coco Chanel once said, “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.” In this case, Breton should have taken several things off.
That said, Malan Breton was inspired by time in four acts: Act 1, The Heart; Act 2, Time; Act 3, Transformation, and Act 4, Legacy. In his program notes Breton exclaims, “Time is the most precious gift, threading life, machine, and humanity together, in a fleeting dance of creation and process. When honored, it reminds us that every moment fuels existence, innovation, and connection. In ways no machine can replicate.”
Through this spring 2026 collection Breton employed 1920s and 1970s themes. There were several beaded flapper-like cocktails dresses that make any woman shine and sparkle, as well as some sparkly sequined and beaded gowns that would complement any red-carpet appearance. Additionally, the sequined ladies’ pantsuits made a quite a statement.
When it comes to Malan Breton’s 70s-inspired men’s suiting there was quite a bit left to be desired. The flared pants were way too flared which threw off the portions of the suits. And some of the boxy shoulders of the suit jackets looked a bit odd with tailoring that could have been more precise.
The addition of former Broadway stars from the original production of “A Chorus Line,” namely Priscilla Lopez, Donna McKechnie, and Baayork Lee was and interesting cast choice. However, most of the audience members had no idea who these Broadway icons were—remember the original “A Chorus Line” is from the mid-1970s. Also, their addition added a kitschy in-your-face quality that Malan Breton should leave behind.
Images courtesy of Lawlor Media Group
Still, as with all Malan Breton’s fashion shows, there was a lot of glitz, glam, and panache. If only he would make his clothes the center of the collection. Bravo to Sandi Bass for great casting of the other models in the show.
—William S. Gooch
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