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May is one of the biggest months in fashion, as it marks the first Monday in May, known to many in the fashion industry and general fashion lovers as Met Gala Monday. The Met Gala is one of the largest funding resources for the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum. For decades, Wintour has wielded a Chanel ironclad fist over the Met Gala, from approving every member of the guest list to securing as much funding as possible.
When the 2025 Met Gala theme was announced, black fashion fans and industry members applauded. The theme, “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style,” celebrates black dandyism and black culture in a way like no museum ever has. What was most important about this exhibit was its perfect timing.
While companies have been rolling back DEI initiatives and have cautiously approached how to address diversity, the Met Gala was beautiful, black, and proud. Celebrity stylist Law Roach said, “They done f*** around and made the Met Gala black,” knowing that black culture wouldn’t let this moment go unnoticed or be less than stellar. Legendary black celebrities walked the red-carpet spanning generations, from longstanding icon Diana Ross to music powerhouse Usher.
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In a time when diversity is seemingly being rejected, as companies are not only rolling back diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI), but the world looks at only 17 percent of Donald Trump’s presidential cabinet nominees being non-white where 40 percent of Americans identify as people of color, celebrating diversity in any form is seen as n against the power status quo. Black dandyism is a cultural and fashion movement where black people use clothing to express themselves and challenge societal limitations. Dandyism is in itself political because it defies racist notions imposed by colonial ideals and white supremacy.
Companies that have decided to roll back their DEI initiatives have felt the brunt of their mistakes. Most notably, Target announced in January shortly after the inauguration of Donald Trump that they would roll back their DEI initiatives. Their just desserts were served to them earlier this week when they reported dismal earnings due to what they called “DEI headwinds.” They also announced that two C-suite women leaders are on the way out. In addition to facing a public revolt from many of their customers, they also warned how the Trump tariffs could affect their business.
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Trump has recently called for a 50 percent tariff on the European Union but has paused the tariffs he was set to impose on Chinese imports through early July. Brands and retailers are still cautious and consumers are spending less. Target has done itself more harm than good by refusing to take a political stand and stick to its DEI initiatives.
The proof that racial diversity in this political climate pays off was when the fundraising numbers for this year’s Met Gala were revealed. The event raised a record-breaking $31 million dollars, more than any other Met Gala in the history of the event. Wintour even took it a step further and recorded a video for Vogue where she discussed how she would no longer invite Trump to the Met Gala, despite his offering to have companies throw money at the event.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), the governing body of fashion in the United States, even stopped to highlight more than several designers of color featured in the “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style” exhibit, including black designers Jeffrey Banks, LaQuan Smith, and Jacques Agbobly, as well as Latino designers Willy Chavarria and Raul Lopez of Luar.
The companies that have chosen to take a stand and uphold their DEI initiatives are also performing better, even in the face of a bleak economy. Ulta Beauty, which has stood by its DEI initiatives, is seeing its stock prices increase. Sephora, which did donate to Donald Trump, but has stood by its DEI initiatives, saw hundreds of people camping out overnight ahead of their Liverpool store opening this week.
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Sergio Hudson, who has no outside investment, has also banked on remaining black and proud. At the 2025 Met Gala, Hudson dressed 18 celebrities, and among his retail partners, he counts Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue, and Neiman Marcus.
For brands smart enough to stay on the DEI train, it’s easy to figure out why they perform better, especially luxury fashion brands. In 2019, Business of Fashion reported that black customers are 20 percent of luxury spending in the U.S. Market, a number that was projected to increase to 25 to 30 percent this year. For brands targeting Asian consumers, China is considered the world’s largest luxury market, with some estimates saying China contributes over 25 percent to the global luxury market. Needless to say, you can’t have a successful luxury brand without people of color.
A Mintel survey recently revealed that 41 percent of Gen Z consumers, the most racially ethnic and diverse generation currently in America, prefer to shop from brands that reflect their identities. Case in point, they want to see more designers of color. One of the most in-demand handbags to date is still Telfar’s shopper tote, the brainchild of Liberian American fashion designer Telfar Clemens. The bag once had a waiting list that felt like “The Hunger Games.”
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Rebelling against racism will pay off for fashion brands in the long run as America continues its trajectory toward more racial diversity. With Black, Indigenous, and people of color, or consumers, making up 40 percent of the population, brands and retailers would be smart to continue their acts of anti-DEI rebellion and cater to the next generation of consumers, and those already pouring big money into fashion and retail.
—Kristopher Fraser
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