Keep the Chill Away with Some Great Spring Jackets

Is it spring yet, or, are we stuck in some seasonal quagmire between winter and summer? Have you needed a jacket early in the day, but by noontime it’s too warm for an outer garment? Even better, is it too warm in the morning for a jacket, but too cool by afternoon to be left out in the chill without some serious layering?

Whether you want to blame global warming for the quixotic weather fluctuations, every smart, stylish man knows a spring jacket is a necessary staple for his wardrobe. Fashion Reverie has found a couple of great-looking jackets that will fit the bill whether it’s raining, seasonal or just a little chilly.

Tallia Orange image courtesy of Ernest Green

For spring/summer 2012 Tallia Orange has some great spring hoodie windbreakers that can take the chill off of crisp spring mornings and can also shelter you in the case of a sudden downpour. These 70s‒inspired windbreakers come in sky blue, pale grey, and olive green with a white zipper detail.

Burkman Bros. Image courtesy of Tracee Yang

Inspired by a trip to Hawaii, Doug and Ben Burkman of Burkman Bros. Polynesia-meets-America‒ theme have produced some great spring/summer garments. Tropical color combinations and original patterns based on the tropical topography is expressed in fantastic hiking shorts, tops and drawstring pants capped with some great spring/summer  bomber hoodie jackets in red, tan twill, and dark navy. Bomber hoodies retail for around $275.

Tallia Orange’s hoodie windbreakers can be purchased at Macy’s nationwide and Burkman Bros. bomber jackets can be purchased at Odin’s, Bloomingdales, Fred Segal’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Scoop and major retailers and boutiques nationwide.

 

—William Gooch

Collaterals: Sensible Men’s Fashion with a Twist

As the accessories market continues to become one of the largest growing sectors of the fashion industries, accessories designers are constantly looking for new and innovative ways to capture a market that is becoming saturated with product. Collaterals, with its flux quantum studs that can be accessorized as collars stays or cuff links, has tapped into a void in the men’s accessory market.  “I felt there was something missing in the men’s furnishings market. I realized that the shirt collar had been fashionably neglected and limited to collar stays and plastic buttons to improve their look and shape. I had a few sets of tuxedo studs, but it required me to buy shirts outfitted for such and as we all know, men don’t wear tuxedos every day,” details Collaterals creator Carlos Castillo.  “With Collaterals, I wanted to do for the shirt collar, what cuff links have done for our shirt cuffs and at the same time give a shirt the ability to hold into place an unruly collar in about four different ways not possible with any accessory in the market today.”

Images courtesy of BCahill PR

Collaterals comes in a variety of styles and gemstones from mother-of-pearl, onyx, abalone, as well as amethyst, citrine, topaz, and labradorite, enclosed in a flux quantum polished  rhodium finish. And contrary to similar products on the market, Collaterals is not a magnet.  “Each flux quantum stud has been crafted by a propitiatory technique embedding a ring of super-conducting material surrounding an N-55 grade flux-charged material inside a laser crafted dazzling rhodium-finished stud, making it’s vacuum-pulling power about fifty percent stronger than a regular magnet,” explains Castillo. This innovative technology collar studs easy to get on and off without any pinning or alteration to the fabric required.

Whether Collaterals works magnetically or uses another technique to hold the collar in place, this innovative product is a stunning addition to any man’s accessory collection. And at prices retailing from $95 to $195, Collaterals is a Fashion Reverie pick in accessible style and innovation.

For more information, go to thecollaterals.com.

—William Gooch

Men’s Accessories Alert: PF Flyers Mixes Tradition with a Contemporary Vibe

PF Flyers, known for their simplistic and trend setting designs, celebrated their 75th anniversary with a sneak peek at their capsule collection in New York. Fashion Reverie was given the unique opportunity to get an early look at this capsule collection, which included styles that ranged fromCenter Hi and  Grounder II, to the Windjammer. The collection also featured unbleached canvas and natural tan leather.

The Anniversary Collection will be available in limited quantities at Boston’s The Tannery, and Kith NYC in May 2012. Along with the Anniversary Collection, there was a preview of  the fall ’12 collection  which included knit shoe tongues incorporated on classics favorites like the Center Hi to the “go anywhere” Grounder II, which gives its vintage style a revamped classic look.

Luke Garro of Antler held a handcraft beer brewing demonstration that complimented PF Flyers constant production of the finest quality of shoe it can. Just like the American Farmhouse Ale ingredients you get a true insight into how the ending result of quality products are truly from the components they are made up of. ( Rethink this paragraph and tie it in more with the event and PF Flyers.) (How does the beer compliment the shoes?)

PF Flyers has the right kinds of styles to lace up your style for this spring.

—Cory Orlando

For Acustom Apparel Necessity Is the Mother of Invention

Getting that perfect pair of jeans or a dress suit that is comfortable but well-made can be a challenge for any shopper, particularly if your body dimensions don’t fit the typical size charts. How many times have you tried on a suit that is almost perfect except it fits to snugly around the shoulder blades or fit a great pair of low-riding jeans that would be perfect, but they ride a little too low for comfort.

Acustom Apparel has come up with a digital body scanning device that may be the answer to your prayers if you are looking for exactitude when it comes to fit and comfort. Capitalizing on a dearth in the market for custom-made clothes that are accessible and affordable, founder and CEO Jamal Montagh is tapping into a much underserved segment. “The way fitting is done for mass market is based on how soldiers were measured for uniforms during the Civil War. Fittings haven’t changed that much over the past hundred years … Finding a pair jeans that fit well can be a big challenge for most women, especially if the shopper is curvy,” explains a spokesperson for Acustom Apparel. “Acustom Apparel saw a need in the market for getting precise measurements for custom-made clothing.”

Though the digital technology used by Acustom Apparel was not originated by the Jamal Montagh, Montagh has enhanced what was already used by high-end, custom-made brands. “We did not invent the technology. What we have done at Acustom Apparel is create algorithms and ways to create a pattern that pairs up with the technology that already existed. The technology we use involves scanning the body with light, when reflected off the body comes up with over 200 sensory data points which gives a pixelated image of the body without a facial image. These algorithms enhance the existing technology which enables Acustom Apparel to render a more precise fit at a less expensive price point,” explains an Acustom Apparel rep. An affordable it is!! Imagine purchasing a pair of custom-made jeans for around $200 as opposed to over a $1000 at more pricey stores and boutiques. The same applies for Acustom Apparel’s custom-made suits that run around $700 to a $1000 compared to other custom-made suits that cost upward of $3000.

Images courtesy of Acustom Apparel

Still, the proof is in the pudding. Though the scanning booth does conjure up images of Star Trek and Captain Kirk, the end product was superb jeans and stylish suits that fit well, at an affordable price. And for that corporate guy who hates shopping and has to wear a suit every work day, this is a great alternative. With one digital scan, he can custom order his suits online based on his exact measurements.

And there is one extra bonus, all manufacturing is done in the US!! —William Gooch

 

The Brits Are Here!!

Sir Tom Baker, Alexander McQueen, Temperley of London and Matthew Williamson are all recognizable British brands that American consumers can purchase at major American retail stores. However, the queen of avant-garde British fashion, Vivienne Westwood, has never had a presence in NYC. Well, that is all about to change. Any Old Iron, NYC’s quintessential men’s boutique for cutting edge, British fashion, will be carrying Westwood’s spring 2012 men’s collection in its lower eastside store. “When Vivienne opened her showroom and store in Los Angeles some months ago, I jumped at the chance to carry some of her menswear, says Any Old Iron proprietor,” Andrew Clancy. “Her brand is doing so well in LA, that I knew the collection would be a surefire hit in NYC … There will be a mixture of footwear, tee shirts, and knits and suits, as well as pieces from her collaboration with Lee Jeans.”

Any Old Iron carries an eclectic mix of British brands from Child of the Jago to Trevor Bolangaro to Sir Tom Baker. With the acquisition of Westwood, Any Old Iron is expanding its inventory to include more established British designers, as well as some womenswear brands.

Vivian Westwood spring/summer 2012 images courtesy of style.com

Clancy’s affection for Westwood goes back to his love of the brand and years of working as a stylist in London. “Every season I purchase pieces from Westwood’s collection for my personal wardrobe.   And though this collection is a little more commercial than in past seasons, this season Westwood really upped the volume when it came to fabrication and details,” says Clancy.

Though Westwood’s spring 2012 collection does give a slight nod to the upcoming 2012 London Olympics, Clancy has chosen to carry pieces that are more in the vein of what American male consumers will want in their wardrobe. “Initially, I was a little worried if the 2012 Olympic reference would register with American consumers, so I kind of stayed away from pieces that heavily reference the Olympics. I stayed with the pieces that incorporated the gold laurels because that motif doesn’t necessarily conjure up the 2012 Olympics.” “American guys really like British military symbols, so I believe consumers will love the tee shirts and the British regalia on the garments; which is unusual for Westwood because she is more of a Francophile,” continues Clancy.

Westwood’s spring 2012 men’s collection arrives in Any Old Iron February and March.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

GN Therapy Jeans Proves that Luxury and Eco-Friendly Can Go Hand-in-Hand

 

Eco-friendly fashion often conjures up images of granola, hippy dippy garments made of hemp and other biodegradable natural fibers that speak more to a more environmentally sound perspective than a fashion-forward sensibility. In other words, it is hard to imagine that eco-friendly clothes and a luxury aesthetic can be compatible bedfellows.

GN Therapy is proving that luxury points of view and an eco-friendly approach are not mutually exclusive. With prices ranging from $400 to $1600, GN Therapy jeans is tapping into that luxury consumer who wants environmentally friendly clothes that have a high-end approach to construction and design.  “The GN Therapy Project was created out of love for the denim connoisseur, representing human kindness, compassion, affection and the daily lifestyle. With a desire to maintain creativity, our number one priority is to renovate the denim industry while preserving the gifts Mother Earth has bestowed upon us. Through Eco-Aging ™, we strive to make the developmental process of denim as “green” as possible,” says a spokesperson for the brand.

GN Therapy marries the principles of environmentally sound product with the luxury lifestyle. “GN Therapy is a lifestyle brand that appreciates the quality, time, and workmanship of true denim.  GN Therapy also enhances social awareness while giving [consumers] the exclusive fashion lifestyle. This concept grew from the desire to be original, and the emergence of the green movement.  Our unique process is about creating a one-of-a-kind garment that tells a story and is as unique as the person who wears it,” details a GN Therapy spokesperson.

Images courtesy of GN Therapy

With those thoughts in mind, GN Therapy through March 31 will hold an online fundraiser for the first pair of “Mojave Washed” jeans.  The jeans will go to the highest donor and will be packaged in a custom box, complete with stock certificate, burlap bag, brush and flask with elements from the location.  Donations to this initiative can be made at mycharitywater.org/gntherapyproject.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

The House of Lacroix’s Fresh, New Approach to Menswear

What happens to an iconic fashion brand when the creative mind behind that brand dies or is pushed aside for a fresher, more relevant point of view? The fashion community was rocked last year by the death of Alexander McQueen and the expulsion of John Galliano from the revered House of Dior. But those are not the only shake-ups the fashion world has had to endure.  Some years back Thierry Mugler left his signature brand for other creative endeavors, and a year after Gianfranco Ferré’s death Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi were brought in to direct the well-known fashion house. (After only a few seasons Aquilano and Rimondi were replaced.)


The House of Christian Lacroix has also recently experienced some reshuffling. For several decades, Christian Lacroix’s couture and women’s ready-to-wear collections were known for frothy, fantasy creations infused with cultural referencing.  However, the media has often failed to acknowledge Lacroix’s menswear aesthetic. “Our male demographic is quite broad. What we did on the women’s side was very theatrical and avant-garde, and when we decided to launch the men’s collection we wanted to be very classic, but current, with some of the expected Lacroix panache. We are a fashion company, so it is necessary that the brand maintains a youthful edge,” explains Nicholas Topiol, chief executive officer of Christian Lacroix.

Sascha Walckhoff

With Christian Lacroix no longer at the helm, it is up to new creative director Sacha Walckhoff to breathe new life into the iconic brand that until recently was stuck in a financial and creative quagmire. Lacroix’s assistant for over 17 years, Walckhoff is well familiar with the Lacroix aesthetic. But, with the couture and women’s ready-to-wear lines dormant, the House of Lacroix, under Walckhoff’s aegis, is making a comeback through its menswear collection. “Sacha is the brain behind this men’s collection, and he has been growing it and evolving it in a more youthful and accessible way,” affirms Topiol.  “The DNA of Lacroix is about the mix and match, and the influences that existed before the company was started and what is going on in menswear now.”

In July, Christian Lacroix’s men’s collection was singularly presented for the first time on the runway.  Though most of the classic silhouettes in this collection have been seen before; most critics agree that the spring/summer 2012 collection was a youthful, elegant combination of functional suits, separates, and for that extra wow factor, denim jackets and cutoff jeans encrusted with Swarovski crystals.  “This collection is a mix of Savile Row, British prep, London in the 60s, and the South of France; a combination of the baroque, minimalist influences, and a reflection of how contemporary men want to dress,” details Topiol. “Christian Lacroix is a couture house, so we felt that even in the men’s collection there must be a link to the couture, which you will evidenced in our denim jackets embellished with Swarovski crystals.”

Christian Lacroix spring/summer 2012 images courtesy of style.com

Though this collection strongly expresses Walckhoff’s point of view, influences from Christian Lacroix are evident throughout the collection. “The pattern on the jackets comes from the bullfighting cape. The pattern was offered to Christian Lacroix and he gave it to the company to make a red haute couture wedding dress in 2002, which was later worn by Madonna. We use that pattern across different Lacroix products, and you can see it applied to our pants, jeans and jackets,” explains de la Bourdonnaye.

With a new creative director at the helm and a new showroom in New York City, a revamped Christian Lacroix is focused on a wider global appeal while continuing to conjure up images of fashion as wearable art.

Christian Lacroix spring/summer 2012 menswear line will be in major stores and retailers in February and March 2012.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Robert Graham Fall/Winter 2012

If there was one predominant theme evidenced in the men’s fall/winter collection, that theme would be lots of color. Though Robert Graham fall/winter collection debuted a week before Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Graham was on trend with a kaleidoscope of autumnal colors. Though this collection contained a few women’s look, in this outing Robert Graham concentrated primarily on his menswear.

From great denim pieces to the eclectic mix of well-tailored jackets and outerwear, Graham’s mien centers around comfortable, stylish garments that wide variety of American men would want to wear.  And Graham’s fashion-forward shoe wear in this collection—Graham’s first collection—complemented the very masculine silhouettes.

There were no big wow moments in this small collection; still, Graham should be commended for understanding how many American want to look from head to toe. Lastly, Graham’s point of view of how to mix and match textures and blend color palettes is in its own way a stroke of genius.

—William S. Gooch

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