Serge Jevaguine has always been inspired by early couturiers and their design aesthetic. As a youth in his native Russia, Jevaguine continued his fascination with great art and famous couturiers of past like Christian Dior, Jeanne Lanvin, Cristobal Balenciaga, Madeleine Vionnet, and others by studying at the Academy of Arts of Moscow.
Not until he moved to Toronto, Canada did Jevaguine get the opportunity to create bridal wear. With his spring 2020 bridal collection, Jevaguine debuts this collection in New York City.
For the spring 2020 bridal collection, Serge Jevaguine was mesmerized by the simple and chic style of French actresses Brigitte Bardot, Michele Mercier, and Juliette Binoche. The collection seeks to capture the elegance of French Glamour featuring shimmering sequin gowns, luxe brocades paired with cascading, tulle overskirts and silk crepes with clean, style lines.
Each design is handcrafted from the best European fabrics and gives close attention to details like bejeweled belts, sheer hemlines and thigh high slits. Every gown is designed to emphasize the soft and feminine nature of each bride.
In this collection, Jevaguine emphasized the old adage, “less is more.” The less is classic, yet not fussy, bridal silhouettes that have stood the test of time, combined with high quality fabrics. The more comes from the distinction that many of the bridal gowns in this collection are accompanied by attachments that can either accentuate the gown or be taken off.
Photos courtesy of Serge Jevaguine
Case in point, the brand’s Sophia SK bridal gown with the detachable train. Additionally, several of the gowns in the spring 2020 collection come in alternative colors and are appropriate for red garments or special events.What sets this bridal collection apart from other collections of its ilk is the luxury fabric choices and the appeal of the collection for an ever-evolving bridal consumer. Bravo on your New York debut!!
—William S. Gooch
Watters is always known for pushing the envelope, and this season was no exception. The company debuted all three of their lines including their namesake Watters, Willowby, and Wtoo. Building on their own ahead of the curve DNA, the company had something to offer every type of bride.
Willowby, on the other hand, continues to play the role of the much younger sister to Watters in design aesthetic and demographic. For its spring 2020 collection, a portion of the gowns were a bit outside the traditional realm of bridal in some ways, with sheer embroidered overlays that projected as subtle sensuality and the absence of princess gowns.
Wtoo was less cohesive than it was in past seasons, with looks going from traditional princess gowns to crop-top wedding dresses. Nevertheless, the collection still played to the fantasy aspect of the wedding day with whimsical floral details and tiered tulle dresses. Classic details, like lace embroidery, contrasted with the more contemporary details of deep V-necklines. The Wtoo girl isn’t afraid to be a little sexier than your classic bride, and she loves a good revealing neckline.
Last season, Justin Alexander’s bridal collection centered around fashion-forward bridal glam. His bride was sophisticated, but willing to take risks. And though there were lots of classic bridal silhouettes in that collection, many of the garments in the collection could work as red-carpet garments or evening wear.
Justin Alexander reflected this point of view for spring 2020 in modern, clean styling with a romantic patchwork of florals that extended to a large floral motif. Continuing on his floral theme, Justin Alexander culminated this collection with embroidered florals expressed in appliques and large floral patterns.
Amsale Aberra left behind a legacy of elevating the bridal gowns beyond overly embellished princess gowns. Until Amsale Aberra established her eponymous brand, Amsale, bridal gowns, for the most part, reflected the aesthetic that one would expect when one witnessed a wealthy woman getting married in a big cathedral.
This season, the brand debuted Nouvelle Amsale, Little White Dress, Amsale, and Amsale x You. These four collections all spoke to different types of Amsale customers, from the younger bride to the more mature bride, and those who wanted something that was customizable. There is power and truth to the variations of the white dress walking down the aisle, something the brand has proven their design team easily recognizes.
Little White Dress was a true exercise in minimalism. These dresses are for the brides who are not the ball gown types. Silhouettes included trapeze in faille and off-the-shoulder tulle midi-dresses. This collection was proof that not every bridal dress necessarily needs to make a bold statement, and that less can be more.
If you are not familiar with the Black and White Masquerade Ball, which was one the big socialite event of 1966, then you should. The event was hosted by the great Truman Capote in honor of Katherine Graham, the publisher of the Washington Post. Capote swore that if he ever became rich enough he would host a ball for all of his society friends.
For its spring 2020 bridal collection, the brand BERTA was inspired by Milan, one of the fashion capitals of the world. As one of the fashion capitals of the world, Milan, as a city, is known for its picturesque landscapes, strong architecture, and style that is unsurpassed. And as fashion capital, Milan has produced such fashion greats as Armani, Valentino, Cavalli, and Prada.
That said; for spring 2020 BERTA successfully attempted some different, but key elements to the collection. This collection featured never-before seen fabrics and silhouettes and a re-introduction of silk, as well as a mix of handmade embellishments and embroideries.
Though it is unfortunate that Reem Acra no longer shows during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS)—and she is well missed—it is a comfort to know that Reem Acra presents her bridal collections twice a year in New York City during New York International Bridal Week.
This bridal collection was not only beautiful and very well produced, but, perhaps, the bridal runway show of the season. The cavernous Saint Bartholomew’s Church, in its grandeur, served Reem Acra’s bridal collection very well. And where some bridal designers would have played off of the church’s iconic history and somewhat gothic architecture, Reem Acra modernized her production by playing classic Madonna songs—Like A Prayer, Celebrate, Lucky Star, Papa Don’t Preach—throughout the entire show.
True to form, there were many classic bridal silhouettes in the collection—something that Reem Acra always inserts into her collections. However, this season Reem went against the grain and had something for everyone. There short bridal cocktail dresses—for the bridal rehearsal party—as well as a bridal jumpsuit and white silk hot pants. And there were several nods to Reem Acra’s Middle Eastern heritage with heavily embellished bridal gowns with ornate veils. In fact, the variety of veils used in the collection was one of the highlights of the show.
For spring 2020 Morilee by Madeline Gardner found inspiration from where blue skies meet desert dreams. In this place sky meets the natural beauty of the desert when what was once an arid place flowers due to the onset of spring, Morilee has ingeniously found a way to resurrect the beauty of a desert in bloom seen through the lens of bridal beauty.
Morilee by Madeline Gardner’s bridal spring 2020 collection puts an emphasis on floral and geometric lace details draped sumptuously over contoured shapes, highlighting every bit of their gorgeous natural form. Textured, dimensional beading reflects the golden hour’s light, as layers of tulle and organza reveal decadent depth and dimension. Through the wind and sand, the silhouette of simple structured shapes will capture the natural spirit of the bohemian bride.
Standout looks in this collection include the brand’s tulle ball gown with embroidered lace appliques and crystal beaded neckline, fit and flare gown with pearl and crystal beading and Venice lace appliques on allover Chantilly lace, full ball gown with cathedral-length train and soft flutter sleeves, and fit and flare gown with sheer train and detachable overskirt.
Since 2011, Eisen Stein has set a standard with their innovative take on luxury bridal gowns. The design team of Yael Eisenberg and Hali Kalkstein have devised a bridal brand that expands bridal beyond traditional fare, incorporating silhouettes and a perspective that one would expect at celebrity red-carpet events.
