Front Row — Page 31

Taoray Wang Spring 2020

September 9, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Taoray Wang presented their spring 2020 collection that was projected toward a younger consumer. This spring collection featured classic Yi embroidery. The collection was part of an effort to lift and assist residents of Chuxiong Yi Autonomous Prefecture in southwest China’s Yunnan Province. In Chuxiong, there are over 70,000 women creating embroidery, an industry that is now worth over 100 million yuan—about 14.11 million in US dollars—according to Xu Xiaomei, head of the prefecture’s publicity department. Creative Director Wang Tao brought this embroidery technique, dating back thousands of years, and incorporated it into separates for men and women that Fashion Reverie thinks will be a big hit with consumers, even if some of the styling choices were a bit inconsistent.

The collection featured sophisticated Yi embroidery on tee shirts, hoodies, and coats. The embroidery was so distinctive and elegant, yet not so trendy that it appeared dated, not appealing to consumers looking for garments that go beyond trends. The show also featured piecework shirts that despite being both asymmetrical and busy were also quite chic and youthful.

However, when those separates were combined with other looks, in combination they were a bit overwhelming. A brown embroidered jacket worn over an embroidered mesh tee shirt–begging the question HOW do you embroider mesh?–with a shredded hem, paired with distressed cut-offs and studded cowboy boots, to quote style guru Tim Gunn, “that’s a lot of look.”

The two looks of neon green jumpsuits that featured beautiful embroidery were so minimalistic, sleek and different one can’t help but wonder if they were intended for a different collection. Still, the more minimal looks did allow the beautiful embroidery to take center stage.

Photos courtesy of Concrete Communications PR

The show itself was quite interesting. It’s challenging to add theatrical touches without distracting from the clothes. When a pair of models passed each other they high fived. Then two models circled each, giving menacing looks after colliding shoulders. One model grabbed another’s hand and twirled her.

Designer Wang Tao commented that the appearance of Yi embroidery’s at New York Fashion Week was a successful attempt to promote the region’s cultural heritage on a world stage, adding that as more people learn to appreciate the aesthetic of this technique, the industry will grow at a faster pace and Chuxiong’s female embroiders could live a better life. Taoray Taoray’s beautiful spring 2020 collection will no doubt have consumers clamoring for more!

—Cameron Grey Rose

Carlos Campos Spring 2020

September 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Carlos Campos didn’t show his spring 2020 during the New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) spring 2020 season, and that was a good thing. NYFWM as it has lost much of its prestige and viability looks as though it is about to go the route of “another one bites the dust.” So perhaps, that is the reason Carlos Campos opted out of showing at NYFWM this season. Or perhaps, moving NYFWM spring 2020 season up a month to the beginning of June was just too early for Campos to get his menswear collection ready in time.

Whatever the reason, Campos made the right choice to wait to show during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) in September. There are more folks attending NYFWS and, for its worth, there is still a glimmer of viability to NYFWS, unlike NYFWM. (The real reason is Carlos Campos had just had a baby and the timing was better to show in September.)

For his spring 2020 collection, Campos was inspired by the Pop-Art style of the 1980s and 90s. In particular, the boy band music—In Sync, Boys to Men, Backstreet Boys, Color Me Badd, and Duran Duran. And if you are old enough to remember two-toned bold color ensembles were the order of the day.

Campos’s bold color palette was made evident in bold turquoise and fuchsia, sometimes paired with the neutral palettes of black, khaki, and navy blue. Interestingly, this bold explosion of color was incorporated into very simple silhouettes, a design aesthetic that Campos is known for.

Images courtesy of wwd.com

What stood out most about this collection was Campos’ unique combinations of color and the way he paired these, sometimes, dissimilar color palettes with asymmetrical cuts and patterns. A fuchsia pattern on black or khaki pants could resemble an 80s fanny pack or a traditional men’s jacket could contain a bold stripe of turquoise or fuchsia.

Though this spring 2020 collection is a solid fashion flashback to the 1980s and 90s, Campos has found a way to inject his brand’s signature DNA. And that is what the industry loves about Campos. No matter the incoming trends, Campos stays true to his aesthetic. In fact, if you are familiar, you can spot a Campos garment from a distance. And that is a good thing!!

—William S. Gooch

Flor et al Spring 2020

September 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

For spring 2020 Flor et al’s design director Karin Gardkvist and design team Nadia Manjarrez and Milad Khoreibani looked to the Pre-Raphaelite era of art. This 18^th century artistic expression was categorized by a return to simplicity and sincerity as was found in an earlier time. They believed that that should return to an abundance of color and detail as seen in the artwork of painters prior to the great Italian painter Raphael.

The British aesthetes who helped forward this artistic movement included Dante Gabriel Rosetti whose wife Elizabeth Siddal was a poet, artist and model. Many consider Elizabeth Siddal’s ideas and expression of feminism a precursor to the feminist movement.

That said; Flor et al incorporated the bold color and attention to detail that characterized the Pre-Raphaelite art movement. The Flor et al design team also made reference in their use of rich color to the Industrial Age, an age in which synthetic pigments were created. We experience those pigments in this spring 2020 collection evidence in the brand’s infusion of light mauve to dark purple.

Additionally, Flor et al’s design team employed artists from France and Italy to create floral prints that conjure up images of the Pre-Raphaelite aesthetic. And this was all done in compliance with the brand’s commitment to sustainability and environmental responsibility.

Images courtesy of JS Group

This spring 2020 collection will fit quite comfortably in the wardrobes of those consumers who have a penchant for vintage luxury as seen through the lens of an explosion of floral fantasy. Fashion, if nothing else, should be aspirational, and Flor et al delivers collections that project fantasy, lushness, romantic abandon, and comfort. And who doesn’t want to aspire to that!!

William S. Gooch

Pamella Roland Spring 2020

September 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Pamella Roland does not rests on her laurels. It is not a secret that Roland has established her brand that is well-known for high-end eveningwear and red carpet looks. In that respect, Pamella Roland fits comfortably in the constellation of such American brands as Oscar de la Renta, Bibhu Mohapatra, Carolina Herrera, Dennis Basso, Badgley Mischka, and Vera Wang.

That said; Roland’s inclusion into this hallowed and elite class of American fashion designers does not end with membership. Pamella Roland is also solidly an international brand and has evolved as her appeal in Europe, Asia and particularly the Middle East has expanded.

Pamella Roland should also be admired for continuing to show her collections during New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS). As her brand has become more international, like some other American brands could have abandoned NYFWS as this fashion week has lost much of its luster. Still, Roland stays loyal and true to NYFWS which helps to give this embattled fashion week some of the glamour and shine that this fashion capital desperately needs.

Always staying true to her DNA of updated classic silhouettes, ombre sequins and flirty, fun cocktail dresses, Roland this season sought to further modernize her brand’s signature looks by injecting a new level of youthful sophistication and glamour. And this youthful injection, so to speak, in the brand’s spring 2020 collection not only worked, but also brought and renewed freshness and vibrancy.

For spring 2020, Pamella Roland incorporated bold and soft colors and textures into new embroidery techniques and silhouettes. The brand’s signature ombre sequins are re-imagined, adding dyed pearls, 3D flowers, and hammered sequins. This collection also focused on using linear aspects juxtaposed against the softness of colors and floral motifs. A metallic lurex jacquard and two-tone floral Mikado highlight the brand’s more structured pieces in asymmetrical ruffles.

Images courtesy of Filippo Fior/gorunway.com/vogue.com

Standout looks in this spring 2020 collection includes the brand’s blush crepe column gown with crystal-embroidered bodice and ostrich trim, blush marabou and tulle cocktail with fuchsia dip-dyed feathers, blush pearl and sequin embroidered lace suit with satin color, blush and gold ombre sequin-caped ballgown with ostrich feather degrade, ivory floral jacquard suit with gold lurex and lace inserts, and fuchsia draped tulle cocktail with 3D ruffles.

—William S. Gooch

Laurence and Chico Spring 2020

September 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

Since the launch of the brand in 2015, the Canadian-based brand Laurence and Chico has been a fashion brand that pushed the proverbial fashion envelope of what is acceptable. From their fantasy, fairytale collections—collections based on their personal illustrations of their friend and family depicted as flora and fauna—to their genderbending in-your-face no holes barred collections to their over-embellished garments that somehow work, Laurence and Chic season after season create collections that are not only adventurous by tongue-and-cheek fun with a hint of wink wink.

There was a lot of wink wink in Laurence and Chico’s spring 2020 collection. With gender fluid models opening the show, and I must say, strutting like it was the last strut of their lives, Laurence and Chico set the mood of their show.

Laurence Li and Chico Wang, the design duo behind the brand, were inspired by New York City and characters from the iconic television show “Sex and the City.” This spring 2020 collection was a lively fashion compendium on the ladies who lunch as seen through lens of an acid-based design aesthetic. Imagine Miranda, Charlotte, and Carrie Bradshaw having lunch in Manhattan with “Alice in Wonderland’s” Mad Hatter and Cheshire Cat, and dressed accordingly.

Though this collection was an purview into Laurence and Chico’s interpretation of “Sex and the City” on steroids, this spring 2020, like fall 2019’s collection was a direct diversion for the DNA of the brand whose previous design aesthetic was more fantasy based with few consumer-friendly garments. This spring 2020 collection as did last season’s collection included far more accessible separates. There was a panoply of tweed blazers, tweed trousers, and cardigans. And although these items were combined with outrageous accessories, accessories aside the traditional looks could easily fit into an Upper Eastside socialite’s wardrobe.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

There a few carryovers from last season, namely the tweed jackets and coats, and pearl-encrusted blouses and tops. That said; standout looks from the spring 2020 collection include embroidered pearl top and plaid shorts, Empire State Building printed blue pants and blazer, heart-shaped tulle top and red tulle skirt, and include embroidered pearl top and plaid shorts, Empire State Building printed blue pants and blazer, heart-shaped tulle top and red tulle skirt,.

—William S. Gooch

Victoria Hayes Spring 2020

September 5, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you desire sexy, va va voom garments with a modern panache, then Victoria Hayes spring 2020 collection gives you a lot to choose from. Still, this was not a collection for the kittenish, come-hither sex siren. This was mélange of strong silhouettes for the modern woman who is not only empowered but is not afraid to show off her curves and her sexy side.

This woman embraces her sexuality and her strong sensual self not for a man and not even for her girlfriends. This feminine celebration reflects how this woman feel about herself; empowered, self-assured, and bomb ass sexy!!

Since the Toronto-based Victoria Hayes launched her eponymous collection in 2016, her clothes have always been about a woman’s strength. Whether it be her sexual power, or strength found through beauty and bold color, Hayes’ woman is always resplendent and fashion forward.

For her spring 2020 collection, Hayes was inspired by the 90s action sports comedy “Space Jam” and 1990s nostalgia. There was also a strong Western aesthetic in this collection.

True to form, many of the looks in this collection were showstopper looks that would fantastic on that celebrity who wants to grab attention, or that celeb who is not shy about demonstrating a strong, in-your-face sex siren vibe.

With astute attention to detailing with hand painted-prints, colorful silks and ornate embellishments, the Victoria Hayes spring 2020 collection explores the dichotomy of present-day womanhood; beautiful and aggressive, romantic yet protective, tough but precious. And Hayes accentuated her beautiful, yet powerful collection by having some of the best runway walkers in her show. Hayes even had supermodel Coco Rocha close the show!! (Coco Rocha often wears Victoria Hayes on red carpet.)

Though Hayes’ spring 2020 collection was great distillation on the modern-day, strong sexy woman, there were a some looks that bordered on “Viva Las Vegas.” Some the embellishments on some of the garments were a bit overdone. And perhaps, Hayes, at times. should explore the “less is more” fashion dictum.

Images courtesy of MAO PR

Still, Victoria Hayes, for the most part, accomplished in this collection what she set out to do, presenting the modern female consumer with options seen through lens of Hayes’ own design aesthetic. And there were ample options to choose from.

And as one of the opening shows for New York Fashion Week: The Shows spring 2020 season, this was a surefire hit. You rule Victoria, and victory to the victor!!

William S. Gooch

Willy Chavarria Men’s Spring 2020

July 26, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

For his spring 2020 collection, Willy Chavarria tapped into the San Francisco and New York underground club scenes of the late 1980s and early 1990s. In an era where Latin machismo was front and center in underground gay culture, what has probably never been acknowledged in the fashion industry until Willy Chavarria’s spring 2020 collection was the incredible style and fashion-forward sensibility that came out of the gay Latino underground club scene.

Chavarria’s menswear is for a niche audience. And more specifically for that stylish man who is enamored with vintage looks and does not shy away from fashion that conjures up images of the late 80s and early 90s. That particular consumer will be attracted to Willy Chavarria’s spring 2020 collection.

That said; there were no groundbreaking menswear silhouettes or unfamiliar fabric choices or combinations in this outing. However, what Chavarria did accomplish was presenting the sexy masculinity of gay Latin culture of that era, and doing that with very simple, familiar silhouettes.

Though this collection was simple an unadorned in scope, there was quite a b it of charm to the clothes. The loose-fitted jeans with mesh tops and silk bombers were expertly juxtaposed against Chavarria’s choice of Latin male models.

And though this collection demonstrated the swagger and confidence of Latino machismo, there were some slightly feminine silhouettes thrown in. In fact, the feminine touches throughout the collection did not distract from Chavarria’s design aesthetic, but interestingly added to it. Only a self-assured man can pull off feminine silhouettes with confidence and aplomb.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Willy Chavarria’s collections appeal mostly to a niche audience. And that is not a bad thing. With menswear brands folding every season, maintaining a niche audience may be the key to market stability. And Willy just might have the key!!

—William S. Gooch

Siki Im Men’s Spring 2020

June 7, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If you are familiar with Siki Im’s men’s collections, you are familiar with Siki Im’s affection for a 90s counter-culture punk design aesthetic with hints of a dystopian disorder. Previous collections include updated 90s punk looks seen through the lens of a North African design aesthetic, as well as 90s grunge married with a dystopian zombie culture. All these points of view worked for Siki Im’s niche consumer. That said; his current collection will successfully expand Im’s consumer base beyond his niche.

For spring 2020 Siki Im paired his signature design aesthetic of 90s punk/grunge with a robot perspective. Im combined this Siki Im Robot X spring 2020 collection with the brand’s Siki Im CROSS, the brand’s performance line. This melding of the two lines facilitated a more consumer-friendly collection that would have a wider appeal.

Similar to previous collections, there was lots of layering in this collection—a must for any Siki Im collection. The real revelation of this outing was Siki Im’s fabric choice. This season light wools are paired with organic linens and soft silks against voluminous silhouettes with technical details. Bungee cord details allow our wearer to play with proportions and easily mix style with the brand’s performance line.

There were also nods in this collection to East meets West, evidenced in Siki Im’s kimono-styled jackets and shirts in silk charmeuse or worsted wool with Gundam prints. And though Siki Im played around with lots of volume which was displayed in extended crouch pants, oversized sweatshirts, and layered shorts, Im expertly paired the volume of these looks with other garments that gave length and dimension.

Images courtesy of Siki Im

With this spring 2020 collection, Siki Im not only expands his consumer base but also injected some vim and vision into an otherwise milquetoast men’s fall 2020 season. Bravo!!

—William S. Gooch

David Hart Men’s Spring 2020

June 6, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

If there was one redeeming aspect of New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) spring 2020 collections, it would be New York Men’s Day (NYMD). As a precursor to what eventually become NYFWM, NYMD still seems to have some relevance while NYFWM is quickly fading into oblivion.

David Hart is one of the few New York City–based menswear brands that has consistently presented his menswear collections during NYMD. And where other menswear brands have faded by the wayside or entirely gone out of existence, David Hart is staying strong.

For spring 2020, David Hart looked to crimes scenes of the 1930s and 1940s as seen in the photography of Weegee (formerly known as Usher Fellig). Weegee documented dramatic crimes scenes and emergencies of the 30s and 40s often by following ambulances and sirens which accounted for him being the first person at the scene of the crime. Hart even had chalky outlines of bodies and caution tape to conjure images of crime scenes.

Inspired by the black and white photographs from the Weegee estate, Hart’s collection was mostly in black, grey, and white color tones with a little lapis lazuli suits thrown in for good measure. The only other bold color in this color collection were the jewel-toned Louboutin sneakers.

There were no extra frills or embellishments on David Hart’s classic 90’s boy band suits. And as well-made and well-tailored as Hart’s suits were—he never really reinvents masculine silhouettes—what stood out most were Weegee scenes of Coney Island and a sexy 40s club dance imprinted on some the shirts and bomber jackets is what stood out most in this fashion outing.

Photos courtesy of Agentry PR

One other element to take not of in this collection is Hart’s decision go more youthful which was particularly apparent in the graphic-printed bomber jacket and shirts. This spring 2020 collection is a winner; Hart keep up the good work!!

—William S. Gooch

Ka Wa Key Men’s Spring 2020

June 6, 2019 by admin Leave a Comment

New York Men’s Day (NYMD), which was a predecessor to New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM), has always had great success presenting emerging designers to the fashion industry. With the almost demise of NYFWM, NYMD continues what it began almost six years ago, presenting emerging designers’ collections to the larger fashion community.

Ka Wa Key is a London-based fashion line that project gender fluidity into its collections. With roots in Asian and Scandinavian design aesthetics, the brand strives to work sustainability and ethical fashion into its collections, as well as centering its creativity on reworking casual wear.

For its spring 2020 menswear collection, Ka Wa Key’s “What happens in grandpa’s closet stays in grandpa’s closet” collection was a reworking of things that could have been sitting in a man’s (grandpa’s) closet for decades. These looks could be those treasured, secretive garments one would acquire from exotic locales, but were only worn at a less conservative time in one’s life. Interesting pajamas, lounge wear, faded sweaters, and deconstructed pants and tops all waiting to be reinvigorated with a fashion-forward designers’ touch. And the Ka Wa Key design team accomplished that.

There were several deconstructed sweaters and pants in this collection, original dreamy watercolor handprinted prints and knitted fabrics, all done in creamy pastels, for the most part. And in line with the signature look of the brand, there were lots of layered jackets and tops. The layered looks of this collection are a plus for Ka Wa Key, giving their consumer base lots of options.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

Known for their “twink” projection, Ka Wa Key presented this collection on model/dancers, exhibiting the ease of movement and casual nature of the garments. Though there were some merits in this spring 2020 outing, this collection was still focused mostly on the brand’s niche audience. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

William S. Gooch