Fashion News Alert: Iman’s British Vogue Cover, Fendi and Sarah Jessica Parker Team Up, and Lanvin Debuts on the NYSE

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As most of you may know, there are a small amount of fashion holding companies, LVMH, Tapestry, Kering, Apparel-III, and others. Well, we can now add the Lanvin Group into the mix.

And to set this off, Joann Cheng, the chairman and chief executive officer for the Lanvin Group, recently rang the opening bell at the New York Stock Exchange (NYSE), announcing the first IPO (initial public offering). The NYSE listing is called Lanvin Group Holdings Limited (“LGHL”) are under the new ticker symbols “LANV” and “LANVW,” opened at $10.20 per share.

As Cheng addressed the crowd, she said, “As I said to my teams, we are young—five years old—and have a long way to go, but proud to say we made this milestone today. I know it’s not easy, and we couldn’t achieve the moment today without you. We are turning the page and starting a new journey to become a wonderful global luxury group.”

Though the Lanvin Group currently holds Lanvin, St. John’s, Caruso, Wolford, and Sergio Rossi, Cheng is looking to expand the holding company to include more brands. “There is a long list of brands in the pipeline we would like to acquire, but we are not in a rush. We run this business like a corporation; we are not a private equity firm or investment-based institution,” she asserted, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

In 2022, Lanvin experienced a 117% sales growth with wholesale being up 260% in October 2022.

Image courtesy Nadine Ijewere for British Vogue

A first for Iman

There are very few first for supermodel Iman in the fashion industry, but there are just a few. One of those first is Iman’s January 2023 cover of British Vogue.

In this January issue Iman talks about what is like to be a refugee in Somalia when her family lost everything due to a military coup and being discovered by photographer Peter Beard. (The real truth about her discovery, not the fabled tale about being discovered by Beard running through the African bush country. Iman was discovered while she was a university student.)

Iman also talked about meeting, falling in love, and marrying David Bowie. She also speaks to forming Black Girl Coalition with Naomi Campbell and Bethann Hardison in the 1980s. “Don’t give me a handout because that in itself is a racist act. The reason a lot of [racist] things are happening in our industry is because there is nobody [non-white] in decision-making positions. These people exist. So, this idea that we are asking for a seat at the table … I’m done with the seat at the table. Let’s just dismantle the whole table,” explains Iman in a dailyfrontrow.com article.

Image courtesy of fashonnetwork.com

You go, Iman!!

SJP and her little bags

Sarah Jessica Parker (SJP) never strays far away from fashion. SJP has teamed up with Fendi for an exclusive capsule collection that celebrates the 25th anniversary of Fendi’s Baguette.

 Sarah Jessica Parker x Fendi Baguette Capsule Collection is a take on the iconic sequin embroidery version of the bag and offers a unique all-over degradé version of the Baguette and four interchangeable magnetic FF buckles. Add on SJP’s personal style and this capsule collection promises to be a surefire hit!!

The capsule collection comes in four colors purple, wasabi, baby pink or soft turquoise blue, and uses a special sequin embroidery coloring technique, known as ‘tie-dye’. This limited-edition collection comes in as special box with SJP’s signature on the outside and the iconic “It’s not a bag, it’s a Baguette” caption on the inside. The Sarah Jessica Parker x Fendi Baguette Capsule Collection is currently available in select Fendi stores.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Patti Smith’s Harper’s Bazaar Cover, Balenciaga’s Controversy and Lawsuit, and Timberland and Jimmy Choo Collaboration

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The second time might be the charm, well that might be true in Timberland’s and Jimmy Choo’s case. After their first collaboration in 2020, both brands are primed to collaborate again.

In partnership with Harlem Fashion Row, Jimmy Choo and Timberland have recently teamed up to celebrate New York City’s creative spirit. For this newest collaboration Timberland’s iconic Original Yellow Boot has been revamped by Choo’s creative director Sandra Choi and New York City Shanel Campbell in more glammed out fashion.

“Shanel infused the collection with her authentic New York creative lens, as a true New Yorker living and breathing the heartbeat of this vibrant city. I love to mix it up by getting together with interesting creative minds, combining our DNA to create beautiful and surprising pieces. This collection celebrates urban glamour, the eclecticism of the city’s dynamic community, and is a tribute to a New York staple, the Timberland boots,” said Choi, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

“It was an amazing experience collaborating with another woman in a creative director role,” said Campbell. “It was also so inspiring, because it’s like looking into the future that I want to have one day. I’m super excited to see my fellow New Yorkers wearing this collection, I feed off the vibes and energy of the city. Without a doubt, my main source of inspiration are the people of New York, from people riding on the city’s transport system to the suits on Wall Street–they inform everything I create,” she added.

This collaboration will have seven men’s and women’s styles which includes two pairs of boots in neon pink velvet with transparent soles, two pairs of classic Nubuck boots inscribed with a graffiti-style Jimmy Choo logo, a pair of black boots with a collar embellished with Swarovski crystals, a pair of knee-high boots with removable leather harness, and a limited-edition pair of stiletto-heeled boots entirely coated in Swarovski crystals. The collection became available on November 30 at Jimmy Choo and Timberland stores, and at select multi-brand retailers. 

Image courtesy of mint.com

Scandal supreme

The fashion industry is always exposed to scandal and controversy. However, the latest fashion scandal which involves Balenciaga is of particular concern.

For Balenciaga’s 2022 holiday campaign, the iconic brand featured children holding teddy bears in bondage harnesses.  Additionally, an image was released that showcased a Balenciaga bag perched on top of copies of what appear to be documents from the Supreme Court case United States v. Williams, a ruling that upheld the PROTECT Act, which increased federal protections against child pornography.

This image was promoting Balenciaga’s collaboration with Adidas for their spring 2023 campaign. There was an immediate backlash with outraged fashion and culture pundits accusing Balenciaga’s creative director Demna Gvasalia of child pornography and pedophilia.

Balenciaga released two statements on Instagram on November 22 about the controversial holiday campaign. “We take this matter very seriously and are taking legal action against the parties responsible for creating the set and including unapproved items for our spring 23 campaign photoshoot. We strongly condemn abuse of children in any form. We stand for children’s safety and well-being.”

Gabriele Galimberti, the photographer behind the holiday campaign, released a statement distancing himself from the imagery, as reported on thecut.com. “I am not in a position to comment on Balenciaga’s choices, but I must stress that I was not entitled in whatsoever manner to neither chose the products, nor the models, nor the combination of the same,” he wrote. “As a photographer, I was only and solely requested to [light] the given scene and take the shots according to my signature style.”

Some celebs, namely Julia Fox and Kim Kardashians, who were both big advocates of Balenciaga have recently distanced themselves from the brand. And on Monday, Business of Fashion pulled their 2022 Global Voices Award from Demna.

 Balenciaga has filed a $25 million lawsuit against North Six, Inc. and set designer Nicholas Des Jardins over the controversial campaign image on November 25. The lawsuit claims that the defendants included the Williams documents “without Balenciaga’s knowledge or authorization” and goes on to say that as a result of “defendant’s misconduct, members of the public, including the news media, have falsely and horrifically associated Balenciaga with the repulsive and deeply disturbing subject of the court decision.”

Image courtesy of fashonista.com

The incomparable Patti

For its art issue, Harper’s Bazaar has placed rock n’ roll icon Patti Smith on its cover. This December issue also includes an editorial and feature that talks about Smith’s 50-year career as a musician, writer, artist, and cultural icon.

Smith turns 76 in December and has a book, A Book of Days, coming out this month. “I haven’t survived all this time, and sadly survived many of my friends and loved ones, because of any special formula. I’ve survived [because] I want to live. I want to be here. Even in our troubled world. Even with all the greed and stupidity and terrible things that we’re all facing and reading in the news or experiencing, I want to be alive. I want to breathe. I want to do my work.”

In this art issue, Smith is photographed by Pieter Hugo.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Raf Simons Closes Label, Kanye West’s Alleged Misconduct at Adidas, and Alessandro Michele Leaves Gucci

 

Image courtesy of hipnajia.com

Adidas AG recently announced they will conduct a probe into Kanye West’s misconduct while they were in partnership with West. In October, the German sporting goods megabrand ended their relationship with Kanye West.

Adidas recently received an anonymous letter that detailed West’s inappropriate conduct with Adidas staff and employees during his tenure with the megabrand. West’s misconduct was also recently reported in Rolling Stone magazine with interviews from a dozen former Yeezy and Adidas employees.

“It is currently not clear whether the accusations made in an anonymous letter are true,” an Adidas spokesperson said in a statement to Reuters. “However, we take these allegations very seriously and have taken the decision to launch an independent investigation of the matter immediately to address the allegations.”

This probe was first reported by London’s Financial Times. Kanye West could not be reached for comment.

Image courtesy of highxtar.com

Another one bites the dust

After 27 years Raf Simons is shuttering his namesake label, which he established in 1995. Though Raf Simons creatively helmed major fashion brand other than his namesake label, from Jil Sander and Dior to Calvin Klein and most recently Prada, Simons’ eponymous brand was quietly very influential.

Though it is still unclear the reasons Simons is closing his label, some fashion insiders believe that Simons wants to concentrate more on his duties at Prada. Other insiders contend that market forces are behind the brand’s closing.

“I lack the words to share how proud I am of all that we have achieved,” he wrote. “Thank you all, for believing in our vision and for believing in me.”

The brand’s spring 2023 showing was the last fashion show and collection that will be produced by the brand. Many of Simons’ fashion confreres—Marc Jacobs, Mugler’s Casey Cadwallader, Richard Quinn, Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy, Joseph Altuzarra, Supriya Lele, and Grace Wales Bonner—expressed regret that the brand was shuttering their doors and support for Raf Simons.

Image courtesy of gotmusictalent.com

Ciao Alessandro

It has been confirmed that Alessandro Michele is leaving Gucci as the brand’s creative director. There have been rumors for some time that Michele was not coming up to par at the iconic Italian brand. And slow sales since the beginning of the year seem to prove that perspective.

“There are times when paths part ways because of the different perspectives each one of us may have. Today an extraordinary journey ends for me, lasting more than twenty years, within a company to which I have tirelessly dedicated all my love and creative passion. During this long period Gucci has been my home, my adopted family. To this extended family, to all the individuals who have looked after and supported it, I send my most sincere thanks, my biggest and most heartfelt embrace.” explained the creative director in a press release, sent out late Wednesday evening by the Kering group, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

“I was fortunate to have had the opportunity to meet Alessandro at the end of 2014, since then we have had the pleasure to work closely together as Gucci has charted its successful path over these last eight years.” said Marco Bizzarri, president and CEO of Gucci in the press release. “I would like to thank him for his 20 years of commitment to Gucci and for his vision, devotion, and unconditional love for this unique House during his tenure as creative director.”

Though Alessandro Michele experienced some incredible highs during his seven years at the helm of Gucci, since the COVID-19 pandemic, Michele hasn’t been able to get the brand back on track.  Some insiders withing the fashion industry feel that Michele is not the creative director to take Gucci into the future. Gucci is the powerhouse of the Kering group, achieved sales of 9.73 billion euros in 2021, up 31%, accounting for more than half of the group’s revenue and three quarters of its operating profit. 

“After seven years at the helm of Gucci’s creative engine, it may well be time for a change, and there seems to be a consensus among institutional investors that a new approach is needed to revive the brand,” they said, adding that “overall, the notion of a change in creative direction at Gucci is likely to be viewed positively,” explained an analyst at RBC.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Lenny Kravitz Wins a Big One, Cher’s New Gig, and FIT Museum Celebrates 50 years of Hip Hop

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On Monday, November 8, pop music and style icon Lenny Kravitz was awarded the Fashion Icon of the Year award at the 2022 CFDA Awards. Long recognized for his in-your-face sexy man fashion, Lenny Kravitz since his rise to fame in the late 1980s has successfully found a way to combine with rocker vibe with his African American roots made evident his glam rock/street style.

What I’ve learned along the way is being yourself is the most important thing you can do,” said Kravitz. “And that you’re going to make mistakes. I certainly have had my fair share of fashion fails, but that’s part of evolving.”

Well, Kravitz didn’t fail on Monday night, Kudos, Lenny, you’re a winner!!

Image courtesy of dailyfrontrow.com

Cher aint going nowhere

If have heard the adage,” “The only thing that will be left after a nuclear holocaust is Cher and cockroaches,” then you know that this quote is very true. There is no last act for Cher. In her 70s, Cher continues to turn heads and keep it moving.

Letting no grass grow under her feet, Cher has a new gig. Cher will star in the latest campaign for the Balmain Blaze, a luxury handbag designed with Cher in mind by Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing.

 “More than anything else, I wanted the Blaze to be a bag that was definitely going to be noticed,” Rousteing said. “As I explained to my team, I imagined these bags as being key components of the boldest entrances. For me, these designs evoke the impressive shields carried by the fearless superheroes of my youth—and I really love the idea of our Balmain Blaze adding an empowering sensation of invincibility as the perfect final touch for every ensemble.”

In the campaign ad, Cher stars as a futuristic goddess sitting on a throne in the same catsuit she wore in the spring 2023 Balmain runway show. In her own words, “All of us invent ourselves—some of us just have more imagination than others.” 

Image courtesy of fashionnetwork.com

Hip Hop at 50

Can you believe that hip hop is fifty years old. Well, it is!!!

Hip Hop traces roots back to the Bronx in 1973 and was the brainchild of black and brown young people of color who were celebrating their life experiences through an innovative cross pollination of music, fashion, dance, and the written word. Fashion was a central element of hip hop evidenced Adidas sneakers, tracksuits, and shearling coats popularized by Run DMC; the Karl Kani clothing worn by Tupac Shakur; and Aaliyah’s iconic Tommy Hilfiger bandeau and jeans ensemble, as well as other designer looks worn by Lil’ Kim, Cardi B, and Lil Nas X. 

The Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) will celebrate this incredible amalgam of music, fashion, dance, lyrical voice with a celebration of the 50th Anniversary of hip hop at an exhibit at the FIT Museum opening on February 8, 2023. The exhibit will also feature designs by 5001 Flavors, April Walker, Misa Hylton, Cross Colours, Karl Kani, Shirt King Phade of the Shirt Kings, FUBU, Rocawear, Wu Wear, Mecca USA, Baby Phat, Pelle Pelle, and Sean John, as well as Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Versace, among many others.

“It was important for The Museum at FIT to organize this exhibition, because hip hop—the most influential music genre of our era—has had such a profound impact on the world of fashion,” said Dr. Valerie Steele, director and chief curator, MFIT. “Furthermore, hip hop fashion and music are cultural expressions of the African and Hispanic cultural diasporas, which MFIT seeks to amplify as part of our goal to expand the understanding of fashion.”

—William S. Gooch

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Fashion News Alert: Kering May Acquire Tom Ford, Nicola Formichetti’s New Gig, and Victoria Secret Acquires Adore Me

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French luxury holding company Kering is in talks for the acquisition of US luxury brand, Tom Ford. As reported in the Wall Street Journal earlier this summer, the frontrunner in the acquisition of Tom Ford was cosmetic and fragrance giant, Estée Lauder. However, disappointing quarterly reports, published on September 30, showed that Estée Lauder had an 11% decline in sales, with a net profit decrease of $103 million dollars. This decline takes Estée Lauder out of its lead pony, so to speak, acquisition position.

That said, Kering is experiencing a financial boom of sorts. Across its brands Balenciaga, Gucci, and Saint Laurent, Kering is delighting in a higher-than-expected sales increase, supported partly by US tourists who are spending heavily in Paris and other European cities.

With a market value of almost 60 billion euros, the acquisition of Tom Ford would not make much of a dent in Kering’s heavily stuffed monkey bags. Estée Lauder was hoping to ink a deal with Tom Ford that could have been worth $3 billion or more, making Tom Ford the biggest acquisition by an American cosmetic giant.

Tom Ford founded his eponymous brand in 2005. The brand initially specialized in menswear, but now includes women’s ready-to-wear, accessories, and cosmetics. With Kering’s expertise in global high-end luxury and accessories, the Kering acquisition could be a match made in heaven for Tom Ford.

Image courtesy of fashonista.com

A new job for Formichetti, kinda

Surprise, surprise, surprise. Nicola Formichetti has a new gig, and you would’ve never guessed this one!!

The designer, stylist, and fashion personality will be the new creative director of youth brand, Claire’s. For those not familiar with Claire’s, Claire’s is an Illinois-based tween and teen girl retailer of accessories, toys, and jewelry.

Formichetti has several upcoming projects in the works. First, he will produce five videos that give fashion trend tips and insights, set to roll out by November 14. Next, Formichetti will collaborate with V magazine on Claire’s first-ever issue, featuring op eds by Jaden Smith, Maddie Ziegler, Dixie D’Amelio, and others. And lastly, Formichetti will open a Paris store with a futuristic feel, conceptualized by Formichetti.

Seems like Nicola has a lot on his plate. Good Luck!!

Image courtesy of nytimes.com

Victoria’s Secret and Adore Me, compatible bedfellows

Victoria’s Secret is bouncing back into prominence by repositioning itself as a brand that has just as much online traction as brick-and-mortar traction. Known mostly for its global stores and extravagant runway shows, Victoria’s Secret experienced a major downturn in the market in recent years, particularly during the COVID-19 pandemic.

On Tuesday, it was announced that the lingerie giant would be purchasing digitally native intimates brand Adore Me. “Adore Me is a technology-led, digital-first innovator in the intimates category that will help us bring differentiated experiences to Victoria’s Secret and Pink customers,” said Martin Waters, CEO, Victoria’s Secret & Co., as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

“This acquisition will be a significant accelerant as we pivot toward growth and modernize the foundation of our company with an entrepreneurial mindset that puts technology at the forefront of everything we do. In partnering with the incredible team at Adore Me, we will move to the future much faster.” 

The acquisition will include an initial upfront $400 million cash payment and further cash consideration, a portion of which is fixed and a portion of which is based on the performance of Adore Me and achievement of specified growth and synergy targets over a two-year period. This Adore Me acquisition comes on the heels of Victoria’s Secret acquiring a minority stake in the US swimwear brand, Frankies Bikinis.

Adore Me was founded in New York City in 2011. This online-only intimates brand boosts 1.2 million active customers.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: The CFDA’s New Chairman, Desigual Commits to Reducing Carbon Emissions, and Elon Musk’s New Fragrance

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It appears that the Council of Fashion Designer of America (CFDA) has a new chairman. Since Tom Ford stopped down from his post, the CFDA has been looking for a replacement. Tom Ford completed his three-year term on May 1, 2022, and rumors started spreading over the summer that Ford would be replaced by Thom Browne. CFDA Chief Executive Officer Steven Kolb has been serving as the interim chairman until Browne assumes his duties in the beginning of January 2023.

“I am very excited about taking on the chairmanship of the CFDA …,” said Browne. “I feel a huge responsibility in working with Steven and the CFDA team to carry on the positive and important work of Tom, Diane, and Stan. I also feel that it is important to give back to an industry that has supported me so well over the last 20 years. I am so proud to be an American designer … there is so much happening in American design today that the world needs to really see and recognize and truly appreciate.” 

Thom Brown launched his namesake brand in 2003, expanding his menswear brand to include accessories, womenswear, footwear, and fragrances. He has been a member of the CFDA since 2005. Browne has also won the prestigious CFDA Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2006, 2023, and 2016.

“Thom understands the steps that are required to build an American fashion business that is both successful and highly respected by the global fashion community,” said Kolb. “Our members, at every level of the CFDA, and the organization as a whole will benefit immensely from his thoughts, ideas and experience, and I’m looking forward to our work together.”

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Desigual goes into action

It’s one thing to talk about your commitment to sustainability, and its other thing to do something about it. Talk is cheap for Barcelona-based apparel brand Desigual, as the brand continues to actively seek to reduce carbon emissions.

Desigual has committed to reduce carbon emissions by 2026. To accomplish this goal, Desigual is partnering with the Science Based Targets initiative, supported by the Carbon Disclosure Project (CDP), the United Nations Global Compact, the World Resources Institute (WRI) and the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF), whose main purpose is to limit global warming levels in line with the Paris agreement.

“Reducing emissions is the perfect example of how all of Desigual’s department work together and is one of Desigual’s specific objectives as part of the climate commitment component of our sustainability and CSR plan,” explained Clara Delmuns, Desigual’s product manager, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “We are aiming for a business model that minimizes the environmental impact of our business and this includes energy efficiency, waste management and the use of recyclable materials, among many other measures involving our suppliers and value chain. Ultimately, it is about involving the entire company and promoting sustainability wherever we are present,” she added.

Desigual hopes to reduce greenhouse emissions, generated by electricity, by increasing its purchase of energy from renewable sources. In 2021, 84% of the energy consumed at the company’s headquarters, logistics centers and stores in Spain, as well as in France, Italy, Belgium, Germany, the Netherlands, and Portugal, was renewable energy. Over this period, Desigual recovered 97% of the waste generated in its buildings and stores in Spain, around 1,100 tons, while its total waste generated was 5.6% less than in 2020.

Image courtesy of economictimes.com

Elon Musk smells purty

We all know about Elon Musk and his company that produces electric cars and renewable energy. We also know his projected tours into space with his company SpaceX. But, did you know that Elon Musk has created a fragrance?

In just a few days of the launch of Musk’s fragrance, Burnt Hair, the fragrance has already made $1 million dollars. “Please buy my perfume, so I can buy Twitter,” he wrote on the platform Wednesday. Elon Mush also disclosed on Twitter that he has sold over 10,000 bottles of Burnt Hair.

Burnt Hair comes in a red bottle with the tagline, “The Essence of Repugnant Desire.” Each bottle sells of $100.

Elon Musk is the richest man in the world so Fashion Reverie doubts that he needs the money from sale of Burnt Hair to purchase Twitter for $44 billion dollars. Still, Burnt Hair is an ingenious marketing tool for the man (Elon Musk) who wants for nothing!!

William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Jared Leto as Karl Lagerfeld, Lil Kim’s New Gig, and Kanye’s Rant

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Kanye West continues to make news in out of the fashion industry. West, or Ye as he likes to be called, aggressively clapped back at Vogue’s global editor-at-large Gabriella Karefa-Johnson who criticized Ye for wearing a black, long-sleeve shirt emblazoned with the words “White Lives Matter” during his Paris Fashion Week Yeezy show. There were several folks in attendance who were either outraged or walked out of the show. British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful called the shirt “insensitive,” and Jaden Smith walked out.

Karefa-Johnson put on her Instagram stories that Ye’s “White Lives Matter” shirt was “indefensible behavior.” “I’m fuming … collecting my thoughts …,” she wrote via her Instagram Story along with a video of her reaction to the fashion show.

“I guess I get what he tried to do—he thought it was duchampian. It wasn’t,” she wrote in another Instagram Story. “It didn’t land, and it was deeply offensive, violent and dangerous.”

“There is no excuse, there is no art here,” she continued. “I do think if you asked Kanye, he’d say there was art, and revolution, and all of the things in that [tee] shirt. There isn’t.”

Ye clapped back. “This is not a fashion person,” mocking Karefa-Johnson’s shoes. And instead of supporting Ye, many fashion industry professionals have come out against Ye on social media.

As of October 6, Ye and Karefa-Johnson have attempted to make amends. “WE APOLOGIZED TO EACH OTHER FOR THE WAY WE MADE EACH OTHER FEEL WE ACTUALLY GOT ALONG AND HAVE BOTH EXPERIENCED THE FIGHT FOR ACCEPTANCE IN A WORLD THAT’S NOT OUR OWN,” he wrote on an Instagram post.

The rapper concluded the message by saying, “SHE DISAGREED I DISAGREED WE DISAGREED. AT LEAST WE BOTH LOVE FERDIE AND FASHION.”

Image courtesy of wtmx.com

Leto and Karl

Jared Leto will produce and star in an authorized biopic about Karl Lagerfeld. This biopic will be produced with Emma Ludbrook through their production company Paradox. 

“Karl has always been an inspiration to me. He was a true polymath, an artist, an innovator, a leader and, most importantly, a kind man,” Leto said in a statement on his social media platforms. “When we came together with the Karl Lagerfeld team, we immediately shared a creative vision of doing a respectful ode to Karl while pushing the artistic boundaries of what a biopic can be. I’m so grateful to Karo, Pier and Seb for allowing us to go on this journey together.”

According to WWD, when Leto first met Lagerfeld, Leto said to Lagerfeld, “You know, one day I have to play you in a movie.” Lagerfeld responded by saying, “Only you, darling, only you.” A recent press release says that the biopic will be about, “the key relationships in Lagerfeld’s life, told through an unpredictable lens.”

Sebastien Jondeau, Karl Lagerfeld’s longtime bodyguard, will be an executive producer on this authorized biopic. No director has been named.  Karl Lagerfeld died in 2019.

Image courtesy of hypebeast.com

Lil’ Kim’s New Gig

Though we haven’t heard much from Lil’ Kim as of late, it doesn’t mean that her career is stagnant. Lil’ Kim is the new face of Mackage, appearing in their fall 2022 campaign. The new campaign will highlight the Canadian luxury winter wear brand’s first-ever Monogram line.

“They knew and understood the history of my style and most iconic looks and built campaign looks around that,” Lil’ Kim explained in a dailyfrontrow.com article. The founder of Mackage, Eran Elfassy added, “As we were founded in the 1990’s, and rose in the early 2000’s, there was a synergy culturally and from a nostalgic perspective. Kim has always created iconic powerful looks and there is power in the way she represents herself. Mackage has always designed for powerful women, so it just felt like a natural fit.”

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Cher Walks for Balmain, Riccardo Tisci Is Out of Job, and LVMH Gives Staffers Their Own Stimulus Package

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If you ever attended New York Fashion Week (NYFW) during the Bryant Park or Lincoln Center era, then you may have witnessed runway shows with a large crowd with lots of celebrities in the audience. Those days are no more during NYFW.

However, those huge mammoth shows still exist in Europe. And the recent Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week, there were over a thousand attendees. In fact, the Balmain show was more like an event with Cher as the star attraction.

The show featured about 100 looks in which warm colors predominated, marked by elongated silhouettes, draped cuts and body-contouring dresses, the materials ranging from knitwear to braided fabrics and elaborately embossed leather with 3D designs, as well as vertiginous platform shoes.

The show opened with Cher in an opening video clip.  And to the audience’s surprise Cher appeared on the runway at the end of show with Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing

Olivier Rousteing’s face was projected on giant screens throughout the venue. Rousteing said at that start of the show, “I want to create something that will last forever.”

Olivier Rousteing became the creative director of Balmain at the age of 25, and over the past decade it appears to some that Rousteing stamp on the iconic French luxury house is becoming more prominent than Pierre Balmain, who founded the fashion house in 1945.

Image courtesy of hypebeast.com

Ciao, Tisci

Riccardo Tisci seems to move around a lot. He was creative director for Givenchy for twelve years and later at Burberry up until recently. And now he is, well we don’t know.

Tisci will be replaced as Creative Director at Burberry by Daniel Lee. Tisci’s spring 2023 collection was his collection for the iconic brand. Daniel Lee was the former Creative Director for Bottega Veneta, of which he left brand abruptly last November.

“I am delighted that Daniel is joining Burberry as our new Chief Creative Officer. Daniel is an exceptional talent with a unique understanding of today’s luxury consumer and a strong record of commercial success, and his appointment reinforces the ambitions we have for Burberry,” Akeroyd said in a release. “I am excited about working closely with him and I am confident he will have the impact we are aiming for in this next phase, supported by our talented and experienced teams.”

Timing was not great for Tisci at Burberry. He had to deal with the Brexit crisis as well as the COVID-19 pandemic while at Burberry. That said, he did have some triumphs. Tisci re-imagined and updated the Burberry’s logo and eliminated the use of fur from the iconic British fashion house. And the Adam Driver-fronted campaign for Hero, Tisci’s first Burberry men’s fragrance, was a viral success.

Daniel Lee will present his first collection for Burberry in February 2023. And Tisci, well who knows. Fashion Reverie doesn’t believe he will be without a prestigious post for long!!

Image courtesy of reuters.com

LVMH doles out the bucks

President Joe Biden is not only top dog offering financial packages to the ordinary person. French fashion giant LVMH has jumped into the fray offering bonus packages to help staffers tackle rising inflation.

While Biden offered financial assistance due to COVID-19 pandemic, LVMH, following the lead of blue-chip French companies Air France and Stellantis, is giving out bonuses to 27,000 staffers to help battle rising costs. LVMH’s French staffers will receive from 1,000-1,500 euros ($973.50-$1,460).

French Finance Minister Bruno Le Maire said this month that inflation in France was expected to ease back to 4.2% on average for 2023, from 5.3% this year.

—William S. Gooch
 

Fashion News Alert: Kanye West to Leave Gap, British Vogue’s First Male Cover and Goodbye Roxanne

Image courtesy of xxlmag.com

Kanye West’s partnership with Gap is ending. This partnership with Gap was a very lucrative partnership for West. However, West is seeking to sever this relationship because certain contractual obligations had not been met.

West contends that Gap refused to market and sell certain Yeezy clothes and open stores that only sold Yeezy products. West plans to open his own Yeezy stores soon.

“[West] had diligently tried to work through these issues with Gap both directly and through counsel (but) he has gotten nowhere,” Nicholas Gravante, Jr., Kanye West’s attorney told CBS MoneyWatch. “Gap left him no choice but to terminate their agreement.”

In 2020, Kanye West and Gap, Inc. signed a 10-year deal to Yeezy-branded merchandise designed by West in Gap in Gap stores. West received royalties from the sale of Yeezy merchandise and the Yeezy merchandise proved to be an immediate hit in Gap, Inc. stores.

Neil Saunders, managing director at GlobalData Retail contends that West’s Yeezy merchandise “was just too extreme for Gap,” adding that West was “a radical innovator who loves to shake things up.” Saunders comments that West’s departure will be “a blow to the brand.”

West’s departure from Gap, Inc. will probably end up in court, and according to Saunders “will simply be a further distraction for Gap at a time when it needs to revitalize its core business.” According to cbsnews.com, Gap reported a $49 million net loss during its second quarter earnings call last month.

Image courtesy of bbc.com

A first for Timothée Chalamet

Everyone loves Timothée Chalamet. And we especially love his red-carpet looks. Chalamet fashion savvy will be front and center in British Vogue’s October 2022 issue, making Chalamet the first-ever male film star cover.

“I always held off from a man-only print magazine cover,” editor-in-chief Edward Enninful said in his editor’s letter. “Forever conscious of Vogue being a space that celebrates women first, I [did not] want it to be a stunt or a statement. Are men in dire need of more places to dazzle on their own, I pondered. The answer, of course, is no. Yet, in turn, it increasingly felt to me that there was something at best old-fashioned, at worst dangerously retro, about these tired old gender boxes. Fashion [does not] always work that way—is every last piece in your wardrobe strictly designed for the gender with which you identify? I doubt it. Sex and fashion these days is no longer about va-va-voom dressing. [It’s] about expression and personal ease. It’s about politics and playfulness. It’s about dressing to make yourself feel good. So, a man on the print cover? Perhaps, I was waiting for the right man. Certainly, I was waiting for us all to evolve a little further, for the moment to feel right, to have it feel like less of a “thing”. I wanted it to feel effortless. And then, one day, it … did.” 

In the October issue the 26-year-old Chalamet talks about fate, fashion and being an old soul. His new film “Bones & All” opens this fall. Chalemet stars as a cannibal drifter.

Image courtesy of hellas.com

Goodbye, Roxanne

With great sadness, Fashion mourns the death of iconic fashion photographer Roxanne Lowit. Lowit was an American fashion and celebrity photographer.

“We are very sad to say we lost a remarkable woman today,” began an announcement of her passing on Instagram. “Roxanne Lowit was a legendary photographer who provided an intimate look into the world of fashion and showed us a side of nightlife that most people didn’t get to see.”

After graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT), Lowit had a successful career as a textile designer, working with Donna Karan and hanging out Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol. In the late 1970s began taking backstage images of the goings-on at New York and Paris fashion weeks.

Lowit was one of the first photographer to photograph Yves Saint Laurent’s backstage and have the images published. Because of this Lowit formed a lasting relationship with Yves Saint Laurent. “I think the most memorable for me was when I was his photographer for 25 Years [of Design] at the Met,” she told W at the time. “It was the first time anybody did something for a living designer, and I was his personal, private photographer for the whole thing. My feet didn’t touch the ground the whole two weeks. We just had this wonderful rapport together, we liked being in each other’s company and we liked each other. From day one it was like that.”

Lowit popularized backstage images from global fashion weeks. And her images of supermodels for the golden age of fashion will never be forgotten.

Roxanne Lowit was 80 years old.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Fashion News Alert: Tommy Hilfiger’s New Monogram, Kate Moss Launches Wellness Brand, and Another Collaboration for Pat McGrath

Image courtesy of fashionnetwork.com

As we move into this new fashion season, it is interesting as many brands attempt to reposition themselves and expand their consumer base. And as a precursor to the upcoming New York Fashion Week (NYFW) spring season, Tommy Hilfiger has announced a monogram.

The monogram will debut during Hilfiger’s presentation at NYFW on September 11. The new monogram was created with British illustrator and graphic designer Fergus Purcell and will appear for the first time on Tommy Hilfiger’s fall 2022 collection.

“Since 1985, the ‘TH’ monogram has stood for authentic prep style, playfully reinvented for all,” Hilfiger said in a release, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “Fergus Purcell has been a truly inspiring collaborator. His elevated approach and connection to street culture is unique. It has been a joy to reinvent our monogram with him—for 2022 and beyond.”

Tommy Hilfiger is returning to NYFW after a three-year absence. His presentation at NYFW will be “experiential” runway event built around its latest see-now-buy-now collection for fall 2022.

Image courtesy of hypebae.com

Second time around for Pat McGrath

For makeup icon Pat McGrath, McGrath is betting on that the second time around will be the charm. And that second time around refers to McGrath’s second collaboration with mega streetwear brand, Supreme.

Pat McGrath is teaming up again with Supreme for co-branded nail polish kit. This is Pat McGrath’s foray into nail polish.

The nail polish kit, Supreme/Pat McGrath Labs Nail Polish, contains three “long-lasting, high-shine” colors, including red, black, and white, as well as custom logo nail decals. The kit will be sold exclusively at Supreme.

The Supreme/Pat McGrath Labs Nail Polish is created for both men and women. The set is also backed by inspiration on how to use them from nail artists Jin Soon and Nails by Mei, who regularly work on set with McGrath.

Pricing and launch date have yet to be announced.

Image courtesy of flipboard.com

More for Kate Moss

September 1 will be a very special day for Supermodel/entrepreneur Kate Moss. September 1 is the launch date new beauty and wellness brand called Cosmoss.

Cosmoss is a curated wellness space with beauty and wellness products that balance and rejuvenate and draw on the “extraordinary life experiences of Kate Moss.” Announced on the brand’s Instagram page, the products have been “meticulously crafted with well-being in mind, using potent, natural substances. Each ritual opens a door to balance, restoration, and love.”

—William S. Gooch

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