Breaking Fashion News: Another Kanye Fashion Controversy

Image courtesy of theblast.com

Kanye West is always fodder for conversation, particularly doing New York Fashion Week (NYFW). A few years back, Kanye West was the subject of a badly researched NYFW story. Almost every media outlet covered this misreported story and Kanye was blamed for being arrogant and insensitive to his fellow NYFW designers, as well as snubbing the CFDA.Kanye is once again the subject of another NYFW controversy. However, this time around the controversy is not misreported. There had been much hype around West performing at Philipp Plein’s fall 2019 runway show during NYFW. It was reported that West would be paid about $900,000 for his appearance.

Image courtesy of nytimes.com

For those who are fans of Kanye West or hope to see what crazy rhetoric might come out his mouth, this West appearance would have been a boon for Philipp Plein. Lots of press, lots of screaming hip hop fans, helping to solidly place Plein as hip-hop designer extraordinaire in the US. (Plein for the past four seasons has been gathering momentum as the premier US hip hop designer star, though he creates a totally different design aesthetic for his core consumer in Europe.) Well, all the brouhaha around Kanye West’s appearance will not come to be. According to reports on papermag.com, tmz.com, hypebeast.com, and pagesix.com, a former associate of Kanye West contacted Philipp Plein and negotiated West’s appearance at the Philipp Plein fall 2019 show. (Philipp Plein’s runway shows are some of the most coveted shows during NYFW.)

West’s appearance at the Philipp Plein show all turned out to be a scam and Philipp Plein was duped out of almost a million dollars. According to pagesix.com, West’s former associate forged West’s signature on the contract and Plein wired the money in advance of his fall 2019 runway show.

A representative for Plein issued the following statement as reported in pagesix.com, “We regret to confirm that Kanye West will not be performing at our fashion show this Monday, February 11th. We were beyond excited to work with him but unfortunately an individual pretended to be part of his management team and acted without Kanye’s knowledge, capitalizing on a former friendship with him. Unfortunately, we too were affected by this misrepresentation. We have recently been in contact with Kanye’s official team and are releasing this statement in unison to clarify that there has not been any misconduct on any of our parts. We hope to collaborate with Kanye West in the future and we look forward to our 20th Anniversary show this Monday evening.”

Philipp Plein spring 2019 images courtesy of youtube.com

Hmm, Philipp Plein’s shows, more recently, appear to be rift with musical artists controversy. Last February, many fashion pundits were offended by a hip-hop band that opened his show, spouting the N-word every other second. And this season there is the Kanye forgery. Philipp Plein, get it together,!! Maybe it times to opt out of the musical acts and just let your fashion collections be your ticket!!—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Lagerfeld Partners with Carine Roitfeld, Betsey Johnson Debuts Beauty Brand, Rachel Brosnahan’s New Gig, and Nicholas Ghesquière Goes it Alone

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For those fashionistas who are familiar with Nicolas Ghesquière’s work for women’s wear at Louis Vuitton, and his work prior to Louis Vuitton at Balenciaga, they will be pleased to know that LVMH has decided to give Ghesquière is own namesake brand.When Ghesquière renewed his contract with Louis Vuitton in 2018 a deal was developed that promised Ghesquière that he would have his own fashion brand. He was instructed to be silent about this development and the financing of his own brand. The exact launch of the eponymous brand is not yet known.

“Delphine (Arnault) is very close to Nicolas and she is the main person behind that project,” one of the sources said. Delphine Arnault is one of Bernard Arnault five children and has recently joined LVMH.

Image courtesy of telegraph.couk

Karl collaborates

Karl Lagerfeld may be closing in on eighty years of age, but that is not necessarily slowing him down. The septuagenarian is collaborating with former French Vogue editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld on a collection for Lagerfeld’s signature house brand.

“She knows what she wants; she has a vision and she states her vision,” says Lagerfeld of Roitfeld in a company statement. “She is actually what she seems to be; she matches her image, she fits in her universe, and she is a perfect match for KL.”

Edit by Carine Roitfeld will launch in 2019 in Lagerfeld stores; online at Karl.com, and via select wholesale partners in September. KL Fashion is carried in over 100 monobrands in 96 countries including stores in Paris, Moscow, London, New York, Dubai, and Shanghai.

Rotifeld is a long-time friend of Karl Lagerfeld and has worked with Lagerfeld on books, numerous photography projects and styling projects. “Karl is one of the smartest, most inventive, and innovative people I have ever known. Our collaborations are always such a pleasure and continue to be inspiring and exciting each and every time. In spite of this, and after all these years, Karl never calls me Carine—always Madame Roitfeld!” said Roitfeld.
 

Image courtesy of hellogiggles.com

Betsey Johnson expandsAs retailers and fashion brands are seeing a large decrease in consumers purchasing garments, many designers are looking to accessories and beauty to attract consumers. Betsey Johnson is the latest designer that has jumped into the beauty fray.

Though Steve Madden owns Johnson’s fashion brand, Johnson, at the age of 76, is not stopping there. Johnson is teaming up with Fragrance.net to produce a cosmetics line that introduces eight beauty products.

Cosmetics by Johnson will feature a ‘Blend It Babe’ 24-pan eyeshadow palette, a trio of ‘Sparkle On Down’ lip glosses, a ‘Lush Lash’ mascara, a ‘Sparkle Hard’ highlighter powder, a trio of ‘Lip Love’ liquid lip colors, and a duo of ‘Sparkle Plenty’ highlighting sticks. There will also be false lashes and a set of makeup brushes. The entire beauty line is packaged cartoon-like packaging with Betsey Johnson signature aesthetic.

Image courtesy of habituallychic.com

Rachel Brosnahan gets another job

Rachel Brosnahan is not only celebrating her recent SAG Award win for her role in “The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel,” Brosnahan has been pegged as the face of Frances Valentine. Frances Valentine is Kate Spade’s latest footwear, handbag, and accessories line.

Rachel Brosnahan is the niece of the late Kate Spade. Frances Valentine is named after Kate Spade’s daughter Frances Beatrix, founded by Kate Spade, Spade’s husband Andy Spade and Elyce Arons.

Kate Spade established Frances Valentine after she left her namesake brand. “Having Rachel as the face of the spring campaign would have made Katy smile,” Spade’s college friend and Frances Valentine CEO, Elyce Arons, told Glamour.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Bebe Rexha’s Clapback, Vogue Runway’s Pay to Play, Balmain Returns to Couture Week, and D&G Model Apologizes

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The fashion industry purports to support diversity and inclusion; however, sometimes that narrative is just idle talk. Particularly, when it comes to dressing celebrities of color that are larger than a sample size.In 2016, “Saturday Night Live” regular Leslie Jones complained that no fashion designers would dress for Award Season red carpets. Christian Siriano came to the rescue. And the red Christian Siriano red dress that Leslie Jones wore during Award Season sold out.

Now, which designer is going to rescue British songbird Bebe Rexha?

Nominated for a 2019 Grammy for her country pop duo “Meant to Be,” Rexha has been getting lots of refusals from designers to create a custom gown for her for the 2019 Grammys because she is not sample size. (The girl has some thick thighs and significant junk in her trunk.) 

I had my team hit [up] a lot of designers,” Bebe Rexha detailed. “And a lot of them do not want to dress me because I’m too big.”

“If a size 6/8 is too big, then I don’t know what to tell you. Then I don’t want to wear your [f***g] dresses,” Rexha said. “You’re saying that all the women in the world that are size 8 and up are not beautiful and they cannot wear your dresses.”

On Tuesday, Christian Siriano offered to dress Bebe Rexha for the Grammys.

Photo courtesy of fashionista.com

Couture is the charm

Balmain returned to the couture calendar after in absence of 10 years. Balmain’s couture show took place at Balmain’s new store on Rue Saint-Honoré with only 130 invited guests.

Balmain Creative Director Olivier Rousteing looked to the Balmain of the 1960s for inspiration, concentrating on architectural as opposed to his super glam embellishments of the brand’s ready-to-wear collections. There were lots of pearls, in fact, oversized pearls in this couture collection, as well as oversized bubble dresses and a bevy of Swarovski crystals. Rousteing played with a lot of shapes in this collection that referenced the avant-garde mode style of the 60s.

Rousteing can now count himself as not only a ready-to-wear designer of one of France’s most iconic fashion houses, he can also add couturier to his fashion titles.

Photo courtesy of Vogue

Pay for play

Vogue.com is now adopting a business model that has been practiced by other media companies for decades. Traditionally, fashion magazines have always given content priority to brands that have spent large amounts on advertising. The advertising packages could include editorial content, editorial photo spread inclusion, and a host of other perks based on the extent of advertising dollars.

Vogue.com has taken these advertising packages now a step farther by offering fashion brands publication of all of the images from spring/summer and fall/winter fashion collections for a fee of $20,000. This coverage does not include reviews of fashion collections. Vogue.com editors must still approve of the collection before the deal goes through.

What is unusual about this new pay for play development is that vogue.com, until recently, offered this coverage free of charge. This is so sad!!

Photo courtesy of inews.com

Loose lips sink ships

The Chinese model that was featured in the Dolce & Gabbana (D&G) controversial promotional video has apologized. The attacks against D&G for their racially and culturally insensitive video started over two months ago.

The promotional video in question shows a Chinese model eating pizza and spaghetti using chopsticks. Images of smiling poop emojis to describe China, as well as cultural insults, accompanied comments on Stefano Gabbana Instagram chats.

“For not properly interpreting the proper way of holding chopsticks, I express my deepest regret,” model Zuo Ye wrote in a post on Monday on the Weibo social media platform, as detailed in a fashionnetwork.com article.

“I appreciate the fact that this isn’t just my personal action, but that I am representing the image of our country, and of Chinese culture so I am racked with guilt, deeply apologetic, and will definitely improve my decorum in future.”

Because of this cultural insult D&G was forced to cancel a fashion show in Shanghai. D&G products were also eliminated from several Chinese e-commerce sites.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Elle Fanning Fronts Miu Miu Fragrance, Rihanna to Launch Luxury Brand, Bebe’s Revamped Site, and Bangladesh to Raise Garment Workers’ Pay

Photo courtesy of stylecartel.com

Though Rihanna is battling her father over the use of the brand name, Fenty, she is not letting any grass grow under her feet. WWD revealed today that Rihanna is in talks with French giant fashion holding company, LVMH, about launching her own luxury brand. Currently, Rihanna’s sportswear brand, Fenty, is highly successful. LVMH is the holding company of Dior, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, and Givenchy.If this launch works out, it will be the first luxury fashion brand LVMH has launched in three decades. LVMH feels that Rihanna is a great prospect due to her name recognition and her millions of followers on social media. LVMH is looking for talented designers to assist Rihanna with this luxury launch.

According to WWD, Rihanna is looking to time the launch of her luxury brand with the release of her ninth album. The luxury line will include ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories.

Photo courtesy of yahoonews.com

Protests do work

After a week of violent protest, garment manufacturers in Bangladesh have agreed to raise workers pay. Bangladeshi garment workers had been striking for over a week before they reached a worker raise, with violent protest breaking with one worker killed on January 13 and 20 strikers being injured by clashes with police outside Dhaka.

Because of low wages and trade deals made by Western countries, Bangladesh has contributed to a $30 billion industry which accounts for 80% of Bangladesh’s exports. These factors have made Bangladesh the second largest garment exporter next to China.

According Commerce Minister Tipu Munshi as told to reporters, the wage increase will raise wages across 6 of the 7 pay grades, leaving the minimum wages unchanged at 8,000 taka ($95) a month. “The discrepancies in the wage structure have been resolved by the prime minister’s intervention. We welcome the new wages. As trade unions, we have the right to protest, but that does not mean [vandalizing] factories or blocking roads. Workers will go back to work,” said Amirul Huq, who represented union leaders on the panel which met with Munshi.

Photo courtesy of taynews.com

Elle Fanning’s new job

It has been happening so often that we should all be used to by now. That’s right, celebrities being the face of fragrances or launching their own fragrance. The latest celeb to do so is Elle Fanning, who is the new face of Miu Miu Twist. This new fragrance from Miu Miu will launch on January 31.

Miu Miu Twist is created by Miuccia Prada and perfumer Daniela Andrier and features notes of Vert de Bergamot and Apple Blossom, with a base of Cedar Wood and an exclusive new accord, dreamed up by Andrier and named ‘The Pink Amber.’ The accord lends a woodiness to the scent, that, according to Miu Miu, is “reminiscent of burnt sugar cane cutting through crisp air.”

Elle Fanning stars in the Miu Miu Twist campaign which includes a short film. This is not Elle Fanning first association with Miu Miu, the actress walked in the brands fall 2018 show and was the face of Miu Miu’s 2018 holiday campaign.

Photo courtesy of Bebe

Bebe’s new direction

Whatever happened to Bebe? Bebe was the go-to brick and mortar store for female consumers who wanted great fashion at affordable prices. In 2017, it was announced that Bebe was closing all of its stores by the end of 2017.

Well, in 2019 there appears to be a real turnaround for Bebe. Branded Online, an e-commerce provider, is partnering with Bebe to revamp their online presence.

“Cultivating a successful consumer lifestyle brand in the modern era requires not only astute vision and compelling product, but also personalized and connected shopping experiences, anchored by sophisticated technology,” said Jan Nugent, Branded Online’s chief executive officer in a recent fashionnetwork.com article. “With its intuitive design and newly implemented, data-driven framework, [Bebe] is well positioned to scale quickly and deliver exponential growth in the online channel.

The newly revamped Bebe’s direct-to-consumer site promises to feature “mobile-responsive design, intuitive user interface and [an] underlying analytics platform.” This dynamic site will facilitate consumers finding new product, get recommendations based on their interests, and purchase product from any device.

—William Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Rita Ora’s New Gig, Kelly Rowland Collaborates with Fabletics, Simon Spurr’s New Job, and Chico’s to Close Stores

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Simon Spurr has been named the global director of 7 For All Mankind. Spurr will be based in Los Angeles and his duties will include leading the brand’s global teams in “[bridging] 7 For All Mankind’s heritage as a premium denim brand with a new, modern approach across classifications,” detailed in a press release.“[Spurr] brings the perfect balance of relevant experience, entrepreneurial spirit, and fashion vision to lead 7 For All Mankind® into its third decade,” said Tim Baxter, Delta Galil Premium Brands chief executive officer in a fashionnetwork.com article. “Importantly, Simon also has a strong, directional perspective on how we can modernize the brand and position it for accelerated growth while sustaining our legacy as a premium denim brand.”

Spurr’s new role at 7 For All Mankind will coincide with the brand’s 20th Anniversary. Spurr’s debut collection for the brand will launch in spring 2020.

Image courtesy of Fabletics

Kelly Rowland loves the 90’s

Kate Hudson’s activewear line, Fabletics, has a new collaboration. Pop star Kelly Rowland is the newest celebrity collaborator with Hudson’s popular activewear line.

This winter 2019 capsule collection, inspired by 90s nostalgia, is Rowland’s first activewear collaboration. The capsule collection pays homage to Rowland’s time with Destiny’s Child in the 90s and that style is reflected in the capsule collection’s range of hue of soft mauve, light bronze, black cherry and wine violet with sexy athletic detail finishes.

“[The capsule collection] truly celebrates every woman and every beautiful curve,” Rowland said of the line. “In my collection, I feel ready to take on anything that may come my way, all while looking and feeling great.” Rowland further explains that the capsule collection is “about versatility, movement, being comfortable and feeling confident,” according to the pop star. 

The capsule collection includes seven outfits with items ranging from sports bras, tops and leggings, as well as a bodysuit and hoodie, while the highlight pieces of the collection include a reversible bomber jacket. The capsule collection is now on sale online and in retail stores.

Image courtesy of wwd.com

Rita Ora expands into footwear

British popstar Rita Ora has a new job. Ora is collaborating with Giuseppe Zanotti for a footwear collection dubbed ‘GZxRita Ora.’ GZxRita Ora line will contain flats, high-heeled styles, including slides, sandals, mules and peep-toe boots with a chunky Cuban Link chain feature on the heel, according to fashionnetwork.com.

Zanotti has a history of collaborating with celebrities including Jennifer Lopez, Katy Perry, Gigi Hadid, and Rihanna. GZxRita Ora is launching on January 24 and will be priced between $795 and $2,495.

Image courtesy of AL.com

Chico’s plans to shutter brick and mortars

LA–based Chico’s has announced plans to close 250 stores over three years to focus on its digital platform. According to a press release Chico’s restructuring “will allow the company to take advantage of its lease expiration cadence, while improving profitability and return on invested capital.”

“Our focus is on implementing those initiatives that drive the greatest levels of growth and profitability of our business,” said Shelley Broader, Chico’s CEO and president. “This includes continued improvement in each of our differentiated brands, increased flexibility and efficiency across our organization, and fully leveraging the capabilities of our robust omnichannel platform.” 

To boost its digital presence, Chico’s is partnering with QVC, Amazon, and Shoprunner. Following Chico’s store closings announcement, the company’s stock rose 1.9% in premarket trading.

—William S. Gooch
 

 

Fashion News Alert: Lady Gaga’s Beauty Line, Additional Sexual Allegations against Bruce Weber, Michael B. Jordan’s New Gig, and Blake Nordstrom Transitions

Image courtesy of tmz.com

Right before the holidays, male model Jason Boyce amended his sexual misconduct allegation against famed fashion photographer Bruce Weber by adding that Weber also violated Trafficking Victims Protection laws. The Trafficking Victims Protection Act, amended in 2000, defines a trafficking victim as someone who is induced to perform labor or a commercial sex act through force, fraud or coercion.

Weber’s legal team opposed this new allegation against Weber in court on Wednesday. “The proposed amendment isn’t based on anything new at all,” said Jayne Weintraub, Weber’s lawyer in a recent wwd.com article. “The plaintiff is attempting to publicly accuse and shame [Bruce] Weber in the press and on social media. And the point of that was to force a quick settlement and that failed. So this amendment or trying to move to amend is plaintiff’s Plan B, radically mounting pressure through scandalous contrived allegations. But what we will do is to continue to make filing with evidence, not talk.”

Michael B. Jordan for the Coach Spring 2019 ad Campaign. Image courtesy of wwd.com

Michael B. Jordan expands his audience
Everyone knows Michael B. Jordan from “Black Panther” and “Creed II.” Well, consumers are about to see Michael B. Jordan in a new light.

Jordan will be the new face of Coach’s menswear spring 2019 campaign. Jordan will also front the brand’s men’s fragrance collection.

“He has been a true supporter of Coach so it felt like a really natural step to collaborate more closely and create a partnership we can take to the next level,” explained Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers.

“I’ve been a fan of Coach for a long time and truly respect their inclusive and optimistic values,” Jordan said in a statement. “I’m honored to be a part of Stuart’s vision and creative process.”

The campaign was photographed by Craig McDean on the outskirts of Los Angeles at an abandoned carnival with Jordon donned in series of color blocked shearling jacket, a blue leather moto and a patchwork leather MA-1 jacket.

Image courtesy of Getty Images

Gaga beauty
Fashion tongues are wagging that Lady Gaga is about to launch a beauty line. Lady Gaga has filed an application for the brand name “Haus Beauty” with The United States Patent and Trademark Office.

According to an article on fashionnetwork.com, the application listed the possible product categories for the trademark as: “Cosmetics; cosmetic compacts; make-up; foundations; cheek colors; eyebrow colors; lipstick, lip gloss, lip gloss palette, non-medicated lip care preparations, lip cream, lip tints, lip liners; eyeliners, eyeliner pencils, liquid eyeliners and eyeshadow.” It also mentioned multiple products under “fragrances and perfumery,” several skincare solutions such as “facial cleansers” and “skin toners,” body care items such as “body oils,” “body powders” and “body exfoliants,” and more.

Gaga has also established the “Haus Beauty” website. That said; the website does not indicate when Gaga’s beauty line will launch.

Image courtesy of Erika Schultz/The Seattle Times via AP

Bye, bye Blake
After a long battle with lymphoma, Blake Nordstrom passed away on Wednesday. Named president of Nordstrom in 2000, Blake Nordstrom turned over the reins to his brothers, Erik and Peter, in 2015 as he battled his illness.

It was not publicly known that Blake was suffering from lymphoma until the company released a statement a little over a month ago. Blake was given a positive diagnosis in December with treatment including chemotherapy and reduced traveling schedule.

“Executive leadership of Nordstrom will continue under co-presidents Pete and Erik Nordstrom. We appreciate your respect for the privacy of the family during this difficult time,” said a Nordstrom spokesperson in the company’s statement.

“My heart goes out to the Nordstrom family and everyone at the company during this difficult time,” commented Nordstrom chairman of the board Brad Smith in the company’s statement. “Everyone who worked with Blake knew of his passion and deep commitment to employees, customers and the communities we serve. We are fortunate to have continued leadership from co-presidents Pete and Erik Nordstrom.”

Blake Nordstrom was the great-grandson of company founder, John Nordstrom. Blake Nordstrom was 58 years old.
—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Raf Simons Exits Calvin Klein, Naomi Campbell’s New Gig, and the Strong 2018 Holiday Season

Image courtesy of fashionista.com

Naomi Campbell’s fashion career does not appear to be losing any steam. Campbell’s three-decade plus fashion career adds another notch in its proverbial belt with Campbell’s new beauty campaign for NARS Cosmetics.Interestingly, in spite of Campbell’s market saturation, this is her first beauty campaign. Campbell will be featured in the brand’s spring 2019 campaign. NARS founder Francois Nars took a recent picture of Campbell, showing her flawless skin and posted the image on social media.

Image courtesy of telegraph.co.uk

Bye, bye Raf

Belgian fashion designer Raf Simons is leaving his post at Calvin Klein. “Both parties have amicably decided to part ways after Calvin Klein, Inc. decided on a new brand direction which differs from Simons’ creative vision,” the company said in a statement on last Friday.

Simons’ tenure at the helm of Calvin Klein was less than three years. Simons came to Calvin Klein after being at Dior for four years. Simon’s title of chief creative officer at Calvin Klein seemingly gave him tremendous power to revitalize the American brand. In reality, Simons was brought in to boost declining retail sales of the higher priced Calvin Klein lines.

Several fashion insiders contend that Simons’ design aesthetic did not bole well at Calvin Klein. “Doing heroin chic might have worked at his own house; but it was not right to be connected with an American sportswear brand,” commented a senior executive within the PVH group.

Though Simons’ departure date has not be confirmed, according to the New York Times, Simons will leave Calvin Klein within the next six months. Raf Simons replaced Fransico Costa who helmed the brand’s women’s wear line for 13 years.

Image courtesy of pinterest.com

2018 holiday season shopalooza

The holiday 2018 season was the strongest shopping season in the past six years, according to a Mastercard report as reported on fashionnetwork.com. US holiday shopping in 2018 peaked at over $850 billion, an increase of 5.1% over the 2017 holiday season.

The 5.1 percent sales growth included in-store and online sales between Nov. 1 and Dec. 24. The National Retail Federation had forecast U.S. holiday retail sales to rise between 4.3 percent and 4.8 percent in November and December.

The retail industry contributes this spark in holiday sales to early discounts and a robust economy. “From shopping aisles to online carts, consumer confidence translated into holiday cheer for retail,” said Steve Sadove, senior adviser for Mastercard.

Though the US is dealing with a government shutdown and a schizophrenic stock market, consumers continued to shop aggressively. “I don’t see that (volatility in the markets and Government shutdown) as having any impact … but I am cautiously optimistic for the consumer going into 2019,” said Sadove.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Prada Apologizes, NYFW Preliminary Schedule Announced, Staffers Exit W Magazine, and Oribe Canales Transitions

Image courtesy of adage.com

Last week Prada was involved in a racial slur when the brand manufactured and sold key chains with racially insensitive trinkets of brown monkeys with large lips. These “Otto Toto” key chains were a part of Prada’s “Pradamalia” collection. The key chains of monkeys in “blackface” were displayed in major displays in Prada stores.Because of the social, cultural, and political outcry against Prada’s “blackface” monkeys, Prada has apologized for the racially insensitive product. Prada issued an apology last Friday on Twitter that it would remove the “fantasy charms” of “imaginary creatures” from stores and displays, and also stated that the “blackface” monkeys were not “intended to have any reference to the real world and certainly not blackface.”

“The Pradamalia are fantasy charms composed of elements of the Prada oeuvre. They are intended to have any reference to the real world and certainly not blackface,” the post on Twitter continued. In the past Prada has been called out for its lack of diversity, particularly models of color, in their runway shows and campaigns.

Image courtesy of forbes.com

CFDA announces NYFW fall 2019 roster

The CFDA has released the preliminary calendar for the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) women’s and men’s shows for the fall 2019 season. NYFW, beginning with the men’s shows, runs from February 3 through February 13.

Tom Ford is returning to the men’s calendar this season, joined by NYFW: Men’s (NYFWM) first-timers South Africa’s Lukhanyo Mdingi, Los Angeles’ No Sesso and Keenkee, based in New York and South Korea. Todd Snyder, Robert Geller, Joseph Abboud, Linder, and N. Hoolywood are NYFW’s regulars that again will show in NYC for the fall 2019 season. And Pamella Roland, The Blonds, Nicole Miller, Rag and Bone, Phillip Lim, Jeremy Scott, Alice + Olivia, Sally LaPointe, Christian Siriano, Diane Von Furstenberg, Oscar de la Renta, LaQuan Smith, Prabal Gurung, Michael Kors, Badgley Mischka, and others will show at NYFW: The Shows fall 2019 season.

That said; Ralph Lauren is returning to the NYFWS roster after showing for the last couple of seasons in Bedford, New York and in Central Park. Bibhu Mohapatra, Proenza Schouler also return to the roster this season. Absent for NYFW for the fall 2019 season will be Tommy Hilfiger, Vera Wang, Rodarte, John Varvatos, DKNY, Monique Lhuillier, Escada, Victoria Beckham, and Public School, and others.

Image courtesy of pinterest.com

W magazine’s staffers jump ship

While W magazine looks for investment dollars and new owners, staffers continue to leave the publication. Earlier this year it was announced that Condè Nast would be looking for buyers for W, Golf, and Brides magazines. Condè Nast is looking to sell W magazine for $8 million.

WWD has reported that there are up to 15 “potential suitors” for the W magazine. While Condè Nast is fielding offers, W magazine’s staffers are deserting the ship. Jewelry editor Gabriella de Givenchy, executive digital director Sarah de Leon, senior market editor Sam Walker, and fashion director Rickie de Sole have all left W magazine.

Image courtesy of biowikis.com

Adios Oribe

Celebrity hairstylist Oribe Canales has passed away. After rising to fame as a top celebrity hairstylist Oribe Canales launched a line of styling products.

The Cuban-immigrant started his prestigious career after he moved to NYC and began working for legendary stylist Garren at his salon at the Plaza Hotel. Canales quickly was demand for editorial shoot and runways shows, working with famed photographers Richard Avedon, Stephen Meisel, and Annie Lieboovitz; makeup artists Francois Nars and Kevyn Aucoin, and fashion designers Gianni Versace and Marc Jacobs.

Canales opened his own salon on Manhattan’s Upper Westside in 1987 and launched his eponymous hairstyling products in 2008. Canales’s celebrity clients included Naomi Campbell, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jennifer Lopez, Kate Hudson, Veronica Webb, Linda Evangelista, Meghan Markle, Cindy Crawford, and Christy Turlington.

Canales died from cardiac arrest in a Miami. He had been in NYC for cancer treatment. Oribe Canales was 62 years old.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alerts: Alice + Olivia Sues Betsy Johnson, Covergirl’s collection for Women of Color, Virgil Abloh’s New Gig, And H&M Sri Lankan Factory Workers’ Protest

Image courtesy of pagesix.com

Alice + Olivia is suing Betsy Johnson over the use of Starface, an Alice + Olivia doodle of oversized sunglasses and lips that are designed to resemble Alice + Olivia founder Stacey Bendet. Attorneys for Alice + Olivia asked Betsy Johnson, now owned by Steve Madden, asked Betsy Johnson to cease and desist after Alice + Olivia noticed the copyright infringement in February 2018. The infringement was supposedly settled in March of 2018. However, the Alice + Oliva became aware for further infringement when the Starface doddle popped up on a new version of a Betsy Johnson handbag that had used previously with Starface.“The only difference between [Alice + Olivia’s] proprietary Starface design and the defendants’ new infringing product is that the defendants changed the shape of the glasses from circles to hearts,” the lawsuit reads. “Minor changes to the defendants’ product (such as changing round glasses to heart shape) do not negate a likelihood of confusion.”

Image courtesy of bustle.com

Covergirl is in the brown again

Covergirl has launched a new makeup line for women of color. Covergirl’s new makeup line for women of color, ‘Full Spectrum Collection,’ is an extensive series spanning foundation, primer, eyes shadows, lipsticks and more. This new collection was created with for women with darker skin tones. According to a post on hellogiggles.com, “[Covergirl understands that inclusivity goes far beyond shade ranges, Full Spectrum was developed with the unique shade and skin needs of multicultural women in mind.”

The Spectrum Collection is now sold at Ulta Beauty and retails between $6.92 and $13.49. The Spectrum Collection includes sumptuous purple lipsticks, eyeshadows ranging from teal and lime green to metallic gold, and creamy blusher in sunset shades. 

Image courtesy of wwd.com

Another gig for Virgil

Virgil Abloh, the current wunderkind of fashion, has a new job. If creative director of Off-White and Louis Vuitton’s menswear was not enough, he now has a new job with an unlikely company, Evian.

Abloh has been called upon to make the mineral water brand’s creative process more sustainable. As a creative advisor Abloh will also be involved in the development of new products for Evian.

The new venture will begin in the first two months of 2019 with the first project of a series of projects launching in January and February. You go, Virgil!!

Image courtesy of fashionnetwork.com

Sri Lankan workers protest H&M

There is a growing movement in South Asia of factory workers demanding a safer work environment and living wages. On November 27, garment workers in Sri Lanka organized a protest against working conditions and living wages in H&M factories.

H&M has over 235 factories in India and Sri Lanka. The Guardian reported in June that garment workers in factories that supply H&M clothing in Sri Lanka and India had experienced physical abuse for not meeting targets.

“We are dedicated to contribute to positive long-term development for the people working in the textile industry in our sourcing markets,” explained Thérèse Sundberg from H&M’s press and communications department as told to Reuters. Sunderberg said that this issue is an “industry wide problem.”

The Dabindu Collective organized the recent Sri Lankan protest. The Dabindu Collection was founded in 1984 “[t]o organize and empower women workers to create an environment, which will help them, win and safeguard their rights, acquire the respect of society and facilitate their participation in development processes.”

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Being Naomi, VS Runway Show’s Low Ratings, Versace Shows in New York, Marc Jacobs New Diffusion Line

Versace pre-fall 2019 image courtesy of elle.com

For several decades, there was hope that Versace would present a runway show in New York City. Well, that day finally arrived with the iconic brand recently presenting their pre-fall 2019 collection at the New York Stock Exchange on Trinity Place on what would have been Gianni Versace’s 72nd birthday.The pre-fall 2019 collection was a glance back at the brand’s iconic collections from 1994, fall 1991, spring 1992, spring 1997, and J-Lo’s year 2000 iconic white gown with plunging décolletage. All the great looks from these history-making collections were infused with a youthful modernity.

Super models Amber Valleta, Candice Swanepoel, Hailey Baldwin, Kaia Gerber, Gigi Hadid, and Emily Ratajkowski walked in the show. This show almost marked the first show since Michael Kors’ holding company acquired Versace.

“I wanted to pay homage to this incredible city, bringing the sartorial heritage of Milan and fusing it with the energy of New York,” Donatella said in an official statement. “This collection is the result of this.”

Image courtesy of celebmafia.com

Another Naomi project

Supermodel Naomi Campbell has a new Youtube channel. “Being Naomi” shares Campbell’s experiences walking in top designers runway shows, her activism, her entrepreneurism, and her experiences working with other top models.

“I want to share it with women across the world, and especially women and young women in Africa,” Campbell tells the camera in her debut video, introducing her latest project. “I want to see the next generation use the things that I’ve said.” In an Instagram clip sharing the news with her 6 million followers, she says: “It’s amazing that I have the opportunity to tell you my story, show you who I really am, and inform you about the issues that are close to my heart.”

Marc jacobs spring 2019 image courtesy of patternindy.com

Marc Jacobs keeps trying

Since the demise of Marc by Marc Jacobs, fans of the brand have eagerly anticipated a new fashion line from Marc Jacobs. Well, that time has arrived.

The Marc Jacobs collection, named after the designer’s personal Instagram handle, will launch for pre-fall 2019 and is currently being shown to buyers. According to marieclaire.com, this diffusion line will be more affordable than Jacobs’ Marc by Marc Jacobs which was very pricey. This new diffusion line comes at a key moment in the brand’s trajectory with sales on the decline and rumors that Marc Jacobs could be exiting his eponymous brand.

There is very little information about this new diffusion line except that there will be accessories, rugby-striped sweaters, and wide-leg pants. The look book was styled by Lotta Volkova and photographed by Hugo Scott.

Image courtesy of heavy.com

The all-time low of the Victoria’s Secret show

Victoria’s Secret’s struggles continue. Not only is the lingerie brand struggling with sales, their annual televised runway show had the lowest ratings on record with the televised show on December 2 garnishing 3.7 million viewers compared to 5.37 million viewers in 2017. At the spectacular show’s peak in 2011, viewership teetered around 10.3 million.

The Victoria’s Secret runway show moved back to ABC after being telecast on CBS for several years. Top models Winnie Harlow, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Kendall Jenner walked in the show with Adriana Lima walking in the show for the last time. Performers included Shawn Mendes, Halsey, and Rita Ora, among others. Still, with all that talent, Washington Post’s Robin Givhan commented that the show was too boring to even be reviewed.

—William S. Gooch

 

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