Fashion News Alert: Disney Teams with Olivia von Halle, Mark Thomas Howard Leaves Helmut Lang, La Perla Segues into Beauty, and Goodbye Sophie Kokosolaki

October 16, 2019 by Leave a Comment

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“Maleficent: Mistress of Evil” opens of Thursday, October 18. And if you want to dress up like the characters from the film, this time around you can.

Disney has formed a fashion collaboration with British luxury designer Olivia von Halle that pays homage to the film’s contrasting personalities, Aurora and Maleficent. The 15-piece collection will be available on October 18.

“Growing up with Disney, I found from an early age that the characters I was drawn to the most were the villains, the rebels, the rule-breakers,” said von Halle in a statement. “They were dangerous, interesting, had depth to their characters —and were so glamorous and well dressed! Women are complex and powerful, and I believe that we all have a Maleficent and an Aurora within us, and I wanted to create a collection that would enable women to explore and embrace these contrasting sides of their personalities.”

According to fashionnetwork.com, ‘Lila’ pyjama and ‘Queenie’ robe, both covered in a lilac floral ‘Apple Blossom’ print inspired by the magical forest where Maleficent and Aurora met will be available in this capsule collection, as well as a floor-length silk organza dress called ‘Delphine Innocence’ and a whimsical dress called ‘Edie Aurora’  that channel the character’s costumes in the film. Issa and Aureta dresses have been modified using a shell-pink silk lurex ‘Grace’ fabric inspired by her ethereal aesthetic.

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Mark Thomas Howard moves on

Helmut Lang has lost another creative director. After only being at Helmut Lang for two years as creative director of menswear, Mark Thomas Howard is leaving to head Lacoste’s menswear and global collaborations division. Mark Thomas Howard will start his new position at Lacoste on October 21.

The embattled brand has gone through a slew of creative directors in the past decade, most notably Shayne Oliver of Hood by Air, who created a one-off collection. Isabella Hurley, editor the British Dazed & Confused, served as creative director for the 2017 relaunch of the brand. And the design duo of Michael and Nicole Colovos served as creative directors of the brand for eight years.

Mark Thomas Howard came to Helmut Lang in 2018 from Joseph and was heralded for re-establishing the brand’s design DNA of Viennese 19th century gentleman’s redingote and the brand’s signature lettering. Howard’s first collection for the brand was the fall 2018 collection that debuted during New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

Helmut Lang launched his eponymous brand in 1977 in Vienna, moving the brand to New York City by the late 90s. Lang sold control of his company to the Prada Group in 1999 and quit his own brand in 2004.

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La Perla expands

Beauty is now on the menu for La Perla. Known for their lingerie, swimwear, and nightwear, the iconic brand recently announced that it is launching a new subsidiary, La Perla Beauty. La Perla Beauty will include cosmetics, skincare, and fragrances.

“La Perla Beauty is a natural extension for the iconic La Perla brand and creates an exciting opportunity to share the modernized brand and its values with a broader consumer audience,” a statement from the company read, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

La Perla was founded in 1954 by Ada Masotti. This is the 65th anniversary of La Perla with the brand launching a commemorative collection.

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Antio Sophia

Greece’s most successful designer Sophia Kokosolaki has died. Kokosolaki often created clothing and jewelry that was inspired by ancient Greece.

“It is extremely sad when a young person dies, a creative spirit, a dynamic and self-made woman who starred in the harsh and competitive world of international fashion for a 20-year period,” Culture Minister Lina Mendoni said, as reported in a fashionnetwork.com article. “What a great loss to the fashion world … RIP beloved … your talent was beyond the norm,” fellow designer Vassilis Zoulias wrote on Instagram.

Kokosolaki is of Cretian descent, studied Greek and English literature at the University of Athens. She later studied fashion design at the acclaimed Central Saint Martin fashion college in London.

Kokosolaki was the head designer for the 2004 Athens Olympics and dressed the likes of Kate Hudson, Cristina Ricci, Tilda Swinton, Jennifer Connelly, Anne Hathaway, Gwyneth Paltrow, Helen Mirren, Keira Knightley, Julie Christie, and Diane Kruger. Kokosolaki passed away on Monday, October 14.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Drew Elliot’s New Gig, Barneys in Negotiations with Bidder, Robbie Spencer Leaves Dazed, and Kim K Expands

October 10, 2019 by Leave a Comment

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Drew Elliot is preparing to leave Paper magazine for his new job as Senior Vice President and Global Creative Director at MAC Cosmetics. Elliot will take over for Toni Lakas at MAC Cosmetics on October 28.

Drew Elliot confirmed his new appointment on Instagram, stating this new job is “a dream come true.”  Drew Elliot has been Editor-in-Chief of Paper magazine since 2014 and has also served as a judge on “America’s Next Top Model.”

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Bye, bye Spencer

After 15 years Robbie Spencer, creative director of Dazed magazine is exiting the publication. Spencer has helmed Dazed for the past six years.

“I started buying Dazed as a teenager and it was one of the first magazines I discovered before moving to London age 19. I actually started working here before I even started university,” Spencer said in a dailyfrontrow.com article. “It was my first ever job, and in many ways, I feel I arrived as a kid and feel like I am leaving as an adult. Dazed has never been solely just a magazine, it has always been a community of like-minded creative people.”

“Robbie is a visionary stylist and as creative director of Dazed has crafted some of its most impactful cover stories,” said Jefferson Hack, co-founder of Dazed Media. “[He] ushered in a new generation of image makers that have defined the zeitgeist … I look forward to him making iconic stories for Dazed in the future.”

Though Spencer is stepping down as creative director, he will continue to work at Dazed on editorial shoots for Dazed Media publications as executive fashion editor. A successor to Spencer has not been named.

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Barneys gets some help, well, maybe

To prevent going into liquidation, the financially strapped Barneys is in talks with a potential buyer who is preparing a $220 million bid. According to the Wall Street Journal, Barneys’ bankruptcy hearing is on Thursday with bids extending to October 11. 

“We are in advanced negotiations with a potential purchaser and intend to reach an agreement by next Friday,” said a Barneys spokesperson to the WSJ, as reported in fashionnetwork.com, confirming the talks but offering no information concerning the identity of the bidder. Those close to Barneys have intimated that the potential buyer is a group of fashion executives lead by Sam Ben-Avraham, whose success have been funding the streetwear brand Kith and Atrium, a NYC-based menswear store.

The potential bid will include an asset-based loan and cash, as well as a deal with the landlords of Barneys’ Madison Avenue store and Beverly Hills stores. In August, Barneys filed for bankruptcy on the heels of an excessive rent hike on its flagship store on Madison Avenue. Barneys has also announced the closing of its stores in Chicago, Seattle, and Las Vegas, as well as seven Barneys Warehouse stores and five concept stores.

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Kim K adds another fashion line

Kim Kardashian continues to build her fashion empire. A month after launching her shapewear line, Kim K has announced she will be launching a loungewear line. Kim K’s Skims’ shapewear line will now include loungewear separates, and cotton tees. Skims launched in September of this year.

Skims Cotton Collection will include bras, underwear, ribbed tank tops, leggings and t-shirts and come in a neutral and pastel color palette. Skims Cotton Collection launches on October 15.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Demna Gvastalia Quits Vetements, Model Pioneer Coco Mitchell Heats Up NYFWS Spring 2020 Runways, H&M to Sell External Brands, and Adios Andrés Sardá

September 18, 2019 by Leave a Comment

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According to WWD, Demna Gvastalia is leaving the Zurich-based streetwear brand, Vetements, he founded with his brother Guram Gvastalia. Vetements launched in 2014.

“I started Vetements because I was bored of fashion and against all odds fashion did change once and forever since Vetements appeared and it also opened a new door for so many,” the Georgia-born creative told WWD in a statement. “So, I feel that I have accomplished my mission of a conceptualist and design innovator at this exceptional brand and Vetements has matured into a company that can evolve its creative heritage into a new chapter on its own.”

Demna Gvastalia will continue his work as creative director of Balenciaga while his brother Guram will continue at Vetements. “Vetements has always been a collective of creative minds. We will continue to push the boundaries even further, respecting codes and the authentic values of the brand, and keep on supporting honest creativity and genuine talent,” explained Guram Gvastalia.

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H&M expands

The Swedish megastore, H&M, is to begin testing out selling brands other than its namesake products. H&M is hoping that selling external brands will attract new shoppers.

“The H&M brand will now develop our offer of external brands. The purpose is to complement our offer with external brands to add excitement and energy and we see great opportunities for growth and to find new customers,” H&M said as reported in a recent fashionnetwork.com article. “We have set a first vision on what we would like to do–now we will set the plan on how to test and scale this for H&M.”

Though H&M has seen an 8% rise in sales for the third quarter, investors are concerned that this rise may not put H&M back on track.

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Coco struts her stuff

Age is only a number for Supermodel Coco Mitchell. Mitchell has a four-decade career as a fashion model and this season brought her special brand of glamour and sophistication to the runways of New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) spring 2020 season.

Coco Mitchell strutted the runways of Christopher John Rogers, Deveaux, and Barragan for the current spring 2020 season. “I want to be remembered when I go up. To walk sort of vapid, with no look or expression, I can’t do that. You have the wrong girl,” Mitchell told AFB.

Mitchell was discovered by the legendary Eileen Ford, and very quickly the former New York City school teacher was booking campaigns for Revlon, Virginia Slims, later becoming the first African American in Sports Illustrated Swimwear edition. Mitchell has modeled for some of the most iconic fashion houses including Armani, Valentino, Princess Irene Galitzine, Sonia Rykiel, Zandra Rhodes, Patrick Kelly, Thierry Mugler, Paco Rabanne, Versace, Donna Karan, Bill Blass, Ralph Rucci, Betsey Johnson, Badley Mischka, and many, many others.

After recent campaigns for Old Navy, Macy’s and Gap, Mitchell decided this season to work with young emerging brands. “I’m one of those people that if you call me and you said we’re [are] this thing and we really need you to help, I [will] do it,” explained Mitchell. Coco Mitchell is a former creative associate of fashionreverie.com.

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Adios Andrés

Spanish fashion pioneer Andrés Sardà has passed away. Known as the King of Lingerie, Sardà broke boundaries and conventional notions around lingerie.

Coming from a family of textile experts, Sardà launched his company in 1962. Sardà was the first designer to present lingerie on the runway. And believing that underwear should empower women, not restrict, Sardà was one of the first designers to create lingerie in unusual fabrics.

Sardà expanded his company to include swimwear in 1970, garnishing contracts with leading European retailers Printemps, and Galeries Lafayette. In 2006, Sardà was awarded the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris, and ten years later, he was recognised with Spain’s National Fashion Award.

Sardà’s company was acquired by Belgian lingerie manufacturer Van de Velde in June 2008. Andrés Sardà passed away on Sunday, he is survived by his daughter Nuria.

William S. Gooch

 

 

 

Fashion News Alert: Margot Robbie Fronts Chanel’s New Fragrance, Forever 21 Prepares for Bankruptcy, Lord & Taylor Sold, and Goodbye Isabel Toledo

August 29, 2019 by Leave a Comment

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Margot Robbie has a new job. She is the face of Chanel’s new fragrance ‘Gabrielle Chanel Essence.’

Chanel has released the advertising campaign for the new fragrance with Margot Robbie in a long, white floating gown with gold and white veils swirling around her. The white and gold in the ad campaign reference the notes of the fragrance.

Images for the campaign were photographed by famed photographer Nick Knight. Knight also directed the campaign’s video with Beyoncé’s song “Halo” in the background.

Gabrielle Chanel Essence is based on four flowers that Coco Chanel loved, jasmine, ylang ylang, tuberose, and orange flower. The fragrance is now available online or through authorized vendors.

Image courtesy of reuters.com

The $100 million-dollar deal

Hudson’s Bay Co. announced on Wednesday that the financially strapped mega retail store, Lord & Taylor, will be sold to Le Tote, a seven-year old clothing rental company start-up. The price of the acquisition is a mere $100 million dollars with $25 million to come in a promissory note to be paid over two years. In addition, Hudson’s Bay Co. will get a 25% stake in Lord & Taylor with two board members on the board of Le Tote.

Le Tote will manage and keep 38 Lord & Taylor stores open, closing five locations. According to Hudson’s Bay Co. CEO Helene Foulkes, the deal brings together “fashion rental subscriptions with traditional retail.”

Le Tote, based in San Francisco, and founded in 2012, offers monthly boxes of apparel items that users can purchase or return after use. Le Tote is backed by Lerer Hippeau, Azure Capital, and Simon Ventures.

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Another one is about to bite the dust

As reported by Bloomberg this past Wednesday, Forever 21 Inc. is preparing for a possible bankruptcy filing. The clothing retail giant has been experiencing dwindling cash reserves and a slew of unprofitable stores for some time.

Founded in 1984, Forever 21 established itself has a fashion chain store that sold fashionable clothing at low prices, mainly for a consumer base of 18 to 35-year-old shoppers. In recent years, Forever 21 has seen its consumer base dwindle and the store chain in now making a last-ditch effort to restructure its debt so that a bankruptcy filing will not be necessary.

Forever 21 currently has 600 stores in the US with additional stores in Canada, Latin America, Europe, and Asia.

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Adios Isabel

Cuban-born fashion designer Isabel Toledo has passed away. The 59-year old independent designer died of breast cancer in a New York City hospital on Sunday.

Toledo moved to West New York, New Jersey as a teenager from Cuba. She studied at Parsons School of Design and Fashion Institute of Technology with her first collection in 1985 picked up by Fiorucci and Bergdorf Goodman.

“I really love the technique of sewing more than anything else … the seamstress is the one who knows fashion from the inside,” she said in a 1989 interview as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “That’s the art form really, not fashion design, but the technique of how it’s done.”

For several years, Isabel Toledo was creative director for Anne Klein; created accessories for Payless ShoeSource; and collaborated with MAC Cosmetics, the latter project launched in 2005. And with her husband and collaborator Reuben Toledo received the 2005 Cooper Hewitt National Design Award and were also bestowed the Otis Critics’ award. She was also honored with the 2008 Couture Council of the Museum of FIT’s Award for Artistry of Fashion.

Perhaps, Isabel Toledo most shining moment was when she dressed First Lady Michelle Obama in a lemongrass yellow wool lace shirtdress with matching overcoat for President Obama’s first inauguration in 2009. Minutes after watching the new First Lady in her outfit, Toledo told CNN: “We’re levitating—we really are.”

Isabel Toledo is survived by her husband Ruben and her two sisters, Mary Santos and Anna Bertha Izquierdo.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Naomi Campbell’s Charitable Controversy, Anna Wintour’s New Title, and Changes to New York Fashion Week: The Shows Calendar, and Christy Brinkley Joins DWS Cast

August 21, 2019 by Leave a Comment

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Fashion Reverie frequently does stories on Naomi Campbell. And it not because we are Naomi fans, well, we are, it’s because she is always making headline news.

This week Naomi Campbell’s charitable and philanthropic work came under criticism. Though her heart is in the right place, London’s Daily Mail has cited that Campbell is often seen in the company of less-than stellar wealthy folks.

Campbell has been slated to receive an award for the British Fashion Council for all of her charitable over the years. This award has caused some controversy because Campbell has been seen being festive and frolicky in the company of Jeffrey Epstein and his alleged madam pimp Ghislaine Maxwell. In fact, Campbell was known to fly on Epstein’s private jet. Campbell has also been seen in the company of Harvey Weinstein, former Liberian dictator Charles Taylor, and glock gun magnate Gaston Gluck.

Campbell has clapped back at the Daily Mail by releasing a response on youtube, defending her charitable work and claiming that the Daily Mail has not given her an opportunity to respond. “For me it’s a distorted piece of journalism,” she said. “And I do love great journalism, but this is a direct character assassination.”

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Anna expands

Condé Nast keeps piling on the titles for Anna Wintour. Not only is Wintour Editor-in-Chief of American Vogue, a few years ago she was named Condé Nast artistic director.

Condé Nast announced a few days ago that Wintour will oversee Vogue International. She will also advise executives on global content opportunities.

This new position comes on the heels of lots of changes at Condé Nast. With the advent of Roger Lynch as the new CEO of Condé Nast, replacing Bob Sauerberg, Condé Nast is seeking to increase their declining revenue and redefine Condé Nast in the 21st century.

Lynch detailed that “top priorities [have] been to define our organizational structure so that we can take full advantage of our unique growth opportunities and exceptional content around the world.”

“I’m confident that our new global structure will better enable us to collaborate across teams and markets and, ultimately, deliver unparalleled experiences for our consumers and clients,” he added in a fashionnetwork.com article.

Image courtesy of by WWD/Shutterstock

NYFWS spring 2020 update

IMG-WME and the CFDA released the complete fashion calendar on Monday. Contrary to the dictates of incoming CFDA president Tom Ford and lots of press releases to the media, New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) spring 2020 season will not be reduced from eight days to five days. According to the recently released updated calendar, NYFWS will span the usual 8-day cycle.

Additionally, many of the designers that did not appear on the Fashion Calendar’s preliminary list—as reported on Fashion Reverie—are now showing during NYFWS spring 2020 season. That includes Tadashi Shoji, Libertine, Elie Tahari, Michael Costello, and many others.

What is interesting about this NYFWS spring 2020 season is the number of designers that have chosen to show off-site, that is not showing at Spring Studios or Pier 59. And though The Shed at Hudson Yards was intended as a new venue for NYFWS, there are next to no fashion designers/brands showing at The Shed. This is probably due Hudson Yards co-owner Steve Ross’ fundraising activities for Donald Trump’s 2020 presidential bid. Prabal Gurung and Rag & Bone declined show their collections at The Shed because Ross’ affiliation with Trump.

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Christie shakes her groove thang

“Dancing with the Stars” (DWS) has announced its cast for season 28. That cast includes supermodel Christie Brinkley.

“I’m so excited! I think it’s going to be so fun,” Brinkley, 65, said before adding, “I literally don’t know how to dance. Seriously, it’s true … I really don’t have the moves. So, I’m really excited to learn with the pros. It’s a wonderful opportunity for me.”

“I think whoever I get has his work cut out for him,” she continued. “I think they need to give me a really good one because I need a lot of work … All of the dancers on the show are incredible, really amazing.”

DWS season 28 airs on September 16.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Kendall Jenner’s Top Ranking, Coach and Givenchy Controversy, and Naomi Campbell’s New Calvin Klein Campaign, and Rag & Bone and Prabal Gurung Pull Out of Hudson Yards

August 14, 2019 by Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of ragandbone.com

More and more fashion designers are pulling themselves out of Hudson Yards for New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) spring 2020 season. Add Prabal Gurung and the Rag & Bone to the growing list of exiting designers. Rag & Bone has not revealed where they will show their spring 2020 show.

In a statement Prabal Gurung, who pulled out of Hudson Yards on August 7, stated “I was previously in conversation with Hudson Yards’ The Vessel as the venue for my brand’s upcoming 10-year show during NYFW. When I heard about this fundraiser, I chose to pull my participation.”

Like Prabal Gurung, Rag & Bone has decided not to present their spring 2020 collection at The Shed, Hudson Yards’ cultural space. In protest of the fundraiser for Donald Trump’s 2020 presidential campaign hosted by Stephen Ross in The Hamptons last weekend, Rag & Bone has pulled out of showing at Hudson Yards. Stephen Ross is the primary owner of Hudson Yards. Ross’ company, The Related Companies, owns Hudson Yards, Equinox, and Soul Cycle. Ross’ affiliation with Trump’s 2020 presidential bid has prompted protests and boycotts of Ross’ companies.

The August 9 Hamptons fundraiser raised $12 million for Trump’s 2020 presidential bid. Tickets went for $100,000 or $250,000 for a roundtable, lunch, and photo with Donald Trump.

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Naomi’s new gig

As ubiquitous as Naomi Campbell’s fashion career has been, it is surprising to learn that she has never had a campaign for Calvin Klein. Well, that is about to change.

Naomi Campbell has been unveiled as one of the new faces for Calvin Klein’s fall 2019 underwear campaign. Other celebs and top models for the fall 2019 underwear campaign include Bella Hadid, Odell Beckham, DJ Diplo, musician Beth Ditto, actor Jacob Elordi, and Asian pop star Lay Zhang, and others.

“Who would have thought I’d be saying this after 33 years. Proud to be in #MYCALVINS,” Campbell wrote on Instagram.

Image courtesy of buzzfeednews.com

Givenchy and Coach misstep

Givenchy and Coach are in hot water over identifying Hong Kong and Taiwan as countries, violating China’s sovereignty over the Taiwan and Hong Kong. The items in questions are tee shirts from both brands that identified Taiwan and Hong Kong as countries. Taiwan and Hong Kong should be now identified as Chinese territories.

Some Chinese brand ambassadors, because of Coach and Givenchy’s inaccuracies, have declined to continue to represent said fashion houses. Chinese supermodel Liu Wen has severed her endorsement deal with Coach.

“I apologize to everyone for the damage that I have caused as a result of my less-careful choice of brand!” she said in a Weibo post that was ‘liked’ hundreds of thousands of times. “I love my motherland, and I steadfastly safeguard China’s sovereignty.”

“We also reviewed our assortment to ensure compliance and have strengthened our internal product development process to avoid the occurrence of a similar issue in the future,” Coach detailed in a statement, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “Coach respects and supports China’s sovereignty and territorial integrity.”

Chinese boy band idol Jackson Yee has severed ties with Givenchy for a similar incident. Givenchy has not responded.

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Kendall Jenner’s social media proliferation

How important is social media in advancing your modeling career? If you speak with supermodel Kendall Jenner social media is still very important.

Currently, Kendall Jenner ranks at the top of the heap of models with followers on social media. Kendall Jenner has a total following of 159 million followers on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter combined. Kendall regularly walks in the shows of Alexander Wang, Versace, Fendi, and Moschino.

Following a distant second is Gigi Hadid with just 62 million followers. And in third place is Cara Delevigne. Rounding out the top ten is (4) Chrissy Teigen: close to 37 million followers; (5) Emily Ratajkowski: more than 31 million followers; (6) Tyra Banks: more than 30 million followers; (7) Bella Hadid: more than 26 million followers; (8) Gisele Bündchen: more than 26 million followers; (9) Miranda Kerr: more than 25 million followers ; and(10) Hailey Bieber: more than 21 million followers.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Barney’s Bankruptcy, Victoria’s Secret’s First Transgender Model, and the 2020 Pirelli Calendar Conjures up Shakespeare’s Juliet

August 8, 2019 by Leave a Comment

 

Image courtesy of Getty Images

Barneys New York, Inc has filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy on this past Tuesday.  The luxury department store chain is up for sale and filed for bankruptcy due to soaring rents and a decline in sales. The rent in its flagship Manhattan store increased from $16 million to $30 million.

Barneys will close stores in Chicago, Seattle, and Las Vegas, along with five smaller stores and seven Barneys Warehouse locations. The Madison Avenue store in NYC and four flagship stores will remain open. “Barneys New York Board and management team have taken decisive action by entering into a court-supervised process, which will provide the company the necessary tools to conduct a sale process, review our current leases and optimize our operations,” said Daniella Vitale, chief executive officer.

According to The New York Times, Barneys is currently looking for a buyer and there are several parties, that are not retailers, that have expressed interest. Barneys has listed $100 million to $500 million in liabilities and assets which was filed in the U.S. Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of New York.

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Valentino Sampaio has a new gig

Amidst a decline in sales and growing criticism of the brand, Victoria’s Secret has hired its first transgender model.  Brazilian transgender model Valentina Sampaio has signed a contract with Victoria’s Secret, confirmed her model management company Premier Model Management. Valentina Sampaio has appeared on the covers of Vogue Paris, Vogue Brasil, and Elle Mexico,

Victoria’s Secret has experienced a dramatic decline in sales as consumers have opted for less-expensive lingerie from retail competitors.  Also, the brand has come under intensive scrutiny due to comments from parent company’s L Brands’ marketing chief Ed Razek who stated that he would not hire plus size or transgender models for Victoria’s Secret’s annual, televised runway show. Razek announced his retirement from L Brands in an undated email to staff earlier this week.

“There are few with Ed’s passion and talent in this industry,” L Brands’ chief executive Les Wexner said in an accompanying note, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. “But I have faith in our incredible teams, talent and product, and I look forward to the future as we grow and change.”

Image courtesy of pinknews.co.uk

Backstage at the 2020 Pirelli calendar

Italian tire company, Pirelli, has released behind-the-scene images of its annual fashion calendar. Nine actresses—Emma Watson, Kristen Stewart, Claire Foy, Mia Goth, Indya Moore, and Yara Shahidi, singers Chris Lee and Rosalia, and artist Stella Roversi—portray a diverse, modern version of Shakespeare’s Juliet.

The ‘Looking for Juliet” 2020 Pirelli calendar was photographed by Italian fashion photographer Paolo Reversi.  “I am still searching for my Juliet and I will be searching all my life. Because Juliet is a dream,” said the photographer in a statement.

The Pirelli calendar has been published since the 1960s.  Peter Lindbergh, Bruce Weber, Mario Testino, Annie Leibovitz, Mario Sorrenti, Karl Lagerfeld, and duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, among many other photographers have photographed the iconic, annual calendar.

—William S. Gooch

 

 

Fashion News Alert: Meghan Markle’s Fashion Line, Ferrari Disassociates with Philipp Plein, and Pyer Moss’ New Gig

August 1, 2019 by Leave a Comment

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When Philipp Plein is not making news with hip-hop-inspired fashion collections, he is making headlines with controversy and outrageous behavior. Earlier in 2019, Plein created a buzz by being hustled out of a million dollars by a Kanye West wannabee. There has also been controversy with Plein using a hip-hop band for his winter 2019 collection that used the N-word several times during their performance. Additionally, Plein made headlines by threatening to sue a fashion editor for a bad review of his fall 2019 collection.

This time around, the controversy centers around Plein posting an image on Instagram of his $800 sneakers on the hood of his green $350,000 812 Superfast Ferrari. Ferrari claims that Plein posted the Instagram image for promotion of his brand, contending that the Plein brand, “tarnishes the reputation of Ferrari.”

Additionally, Ferrari sent a restraining letter to Plein demanding that he remove the said image from his Instagram post. According to pagesix.com, Ferrari states that Plein’s Instagram post aligns Ferrari “with a lifestyle [that is] totally inconsistent with [its] brand perception, in connection with performers making sexual innuendos and using Ferrari’s cars as props in a manner which is per se distasteful.”

Plein has responded by threatening legal action against the luxury car brand, stating that, “I can’t even put in words how disappointed and disgusted I am.” Plein claims that he has bought four Ferraris over a ten-year period.

Image courtesy of vogue.com

Meghan Markle’s foray into fashion

Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, has branched into fashion. First, she has been assigned a guest editor position for the September issue of British Vogue, and additionally Markle is working on a fashion collaboration with Misha Nonoo, Mark & Spencer, Jigsaw, and John Lewis & Partners on a workwear series of suitable interview apparel for women.  This collaboration will benefit Markle’s royal patronage, Smart Works. Smart Works assist women who are re-entering the job market with suitable interview clothing and interview coaching sessions.

“When you walk into a Smart Works space, you’re met with racks of clothing and an array of bags and shoes,” the Duchess reportedly writes in the digital issue of British Vogue, as detailed in fashionnetwork.com. “Sometimes, however, it can be a potpourri of mismatched sizes and colours, not always the right stylistic choices or range of sizes. To help with this, I asked Marks & Spencer, John Lewis & Partners, Jigsaw and my friend, the designer Misha Nonoo, if they were willing to design a capsule collection of more classic options for a workwear wardrobe.”

For each workwear garment that is purchased from these collaborations, one garment will be donated to Smart Works. The fashion line will be released later in the year.

Image courtesy of hypebeast.com

Kerby Jean-Raymond and Reebok

Pyer Moss’ creative director Kerby Jean-Raymond has created a new fashion line for Reebok. With major competition from Puma, Nike and other global sportswear brands, Reebok has been struggling of late to gain market traction. Reebok is hoping that this collaboration with Jean-Raymond will help revitalize the brand. Jean-Raymond will serve as creative director for a new division of Reebok, Reebok Studies.

Pyer Moss came to prominence in the New York fashion market in late 2015 during New York Fashion: The Shows spring 2016 season. Often the brand’s collection depicts and draw inspiration from African American culture, taking on at times a political slant.

Though Adidas acquired Reebok in 2005, the sportswear brand continues to struggle. Shares of Reebok fell by 3.05 percent in 2018.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Will Project Runway Bite the Dust?, Sonia Rykiel Liquidates, Donna Karan Is Back, and NYFW: The Shows Spring 2020 Preliminary Schedule

July 24, 2019 by Leave a Comment

PROJECT RUNWAY — Season:17 — Pictured: (l-r) Brandon Maxwell, Karlie Kloss, Christian Siriano, Nina Garcia, Elaine Welteroth — (Photo by: Miller Mobley/Bravo)

In case you were not aware, “Project Runway” season 17 had the lowest rating of all the previous seasons.  Even with the addition of Christian Siriano and Karlie Kloss as the hosts, the show received no 2019 Emmy nominations, a first in 15 years. “Karlie is a delight, but without Heidi [Klum] and Tim [Gunn], it just changed the dynamic of everything,” says an insider.

Karlie only has another year on her two-year contract and with the show’s low ratings, it is up in the air if she will return. Remember, Karlie is a supermodel and her busy schedule keeps her working all the time.

Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn left their hosting jobs at “Project Runway” to launch their Amazon show “Making the Cut” with Naomi Campbell, Nicole Richie, Carine Roitfeld, and Joseph Altuzarra. “Project Runway” was revamped by a move from the Lifetime channel back to Bravo with new hosts Karlie Kloss and Christian Siriano and new judges Elaine Welteroth, and Brandon Maxwell.

When asked for a comment on the state of “Project Runway,” a Bravo spokesperson detailed that there is, “no truth” the show will discontinue. “Ratings were strong and grew week after week, and there continues to be major support for the show from the network. We are excited about the next season, which is currently in production, and for many more after that.”

Image courtesy of internationalnews.com

Bye, bye Sonia

The French fashion house, Sonia Rykiel, is folding. After having difficulty finding a buyer, a French commercial court is liquidating the company. Head designer Julie de Libran left the company in March and the company went into receivership in April.

Established in the late 1960s, Sonia Rykiel was known as the “Queen of Knits,” making it fashionable for Parisian women to be seen in less formal styles of dress. Her “Poor Boy” sweater was made popular by film icon Audrey Hepburn.

Sonia Rykiel died from Parkinson’s Disease in 2016 at the age of 86. Five years before her death, her company was acquired by First Heritage Brands. Victor and William Fung, the Hong Kong billionaires that backed the acquisition, pumped millions of dollars into Sonia Rykiel, but the company continued to lose money.

With there being only one lone bidder for the iconic French fashion house, a commercial court judge rejected the lone bidder, forcing the company to liquidate its assets.  Additionally, the company’s archives, intellectual property, and its six stores across France and Monaco will all be sold.

Image courtesy of vogue.com

Donna Karan teams up with Kenneth Cole

Just when we thought Donna Karan was done with fashion and putting her efforts into designing her urban furniture collection, Urban Zen, Karan puts her foot back into the fashion pool. Karan has teamed up with Kenneth Cole to design a limited-edition, 10-piece shoe collection that sheds light on Haitian artisans.

“We’re bringing Haiti’s rich artisan culture right to your soles,” Cole announced via Instagram, unveiling the collection on Instagram. While Karan wrote: “Kenneth and I share our heart and soul with Haiti and now Soles.”

Local workshop owner Pascale Théard Créations has brought this collaboration to life by bringing Haitian leather-making traditions combined with Kenneth Cole’s comfortable soles. The shoes will also feature such details as fringing, embroidery and braided straps.

“Hopefully it becomes an ongoing sustainable business,” Cole told Vogue, as detailed in fashionnetwork.com.  We’re making these in very limited quantities to start. We want them to be a vehicle for telling the story of this community.”

Image courtesy of ubmfashion.com

A reduced NYFWS

The CFDA has released its preliminary calendar for New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) spring 2020 season. And it is slim pickings.

Incoming CFDA Board Chairman Tom Ford has reduced NYFWS from eight days to six days. “We listened to feedback from both the domestic and the global fashion industry to tighten and strengthen the Official New York Fashion Week schedule,” said Steven Kolb, President and CEO of the CFDA. “I am excited for the strong September lineup which will continue to showcase and celebrate the creativity and diversity of American fashion.”

The 75-plus designers that will be showing is a major reduction from the 400-plus fashion designers/brands that would present during NYFWS ten years ago. Missing this season from the roster is the large amount of Asian emerging brands that had become a mainstay of NYFWS. Also missing from the lineup is Monique Lhuillier, John Varvatos, Nanette Lepore, Zang Toi, Tadashi Shoji, Public School, Tracey Reese, Milly, Thakoon, Philip Plein, and many others.

Back on the roster for the spring 2020 season is Vera Wang and Tommy Hilfiger after a few year’s absence. Hilfiger will present his ‘TommyNow’ fashion explosion at the famed Apollo Theater on September 8. Marc Jacobs will close NYFWS on September 11.

New York Fashion Week: The Shows runs from September 6 through September 11.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Matt Dillon’s New Job, Kate Moss Collaborates with Zadig & Voltaire and Norma Kamali Unveils Skincare Line

July 11, 2019 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of fashionnetwork.com

Menswear Italian Brioni has a new actor as the face of their winter 2020 Tailoring Legends campaign. Matt Dillon will appear in the brand’s winter 2020 campaign in black and white images photographed by Gregory Harris. As the face of Brioni’s fall 2020 campaign, the 55-year old Dillon is succeeded by Samuel L. Jackson, Pierce Brosnan, and Anthony Hopkins.

Founded in Rome in 1945, Brioni has been worn by such iconic actors as Clark Gable, Henry Fonda, John Wayne, and Gary Cooper. Brioni suits have been worn by Daniel Craig and Pierce Brosnan in several Bond films. Since 2002, Brioni has been owned by Kering, the French luxury group.

Image courtesy of fashionunited.com

Kate Moss’ new gig

Zadig & Voltaire has a new muse, supermodel Kate Moss. Kate Moss will collaborate with the French apparel brand on its new rock n’ roll fall 2019 campaign.

Moss will not just be the face of the brand’s fall 2019 campaign but will also collaborate with Zadig & Voltaire’s creative director Cecilia Bönström on bags, shoes, and possibly apparel.

Zadig & Voltaire has ramped up their retail presence with 199 stores in France and 260 stores globally. The brand has recently opened new location in Nice and Porto.

Image courtesy of robbreport.com

Norma Kamali expands

If being an icon in the fashion industry is not enough, Norma Kamali adds to her long list of accomplishments by unveiling a new direction in her career by releasing a skincare line. As reported by Vogue, Normalife: The Skinline, includes a skincare collection spanning cleanser dubbed ‘Clean,’ an exfoliator titled ‘Smooth,’ a color enhancer called ‘Glow’ and a moisturizer, ‘Soft.’

“I am sharing everything I do, everything I use and all the information I have gathered in the last 40 years!” the designer promises. “Normalife is democratic inclusive for men and women of all ages, skin color and types!!,” explained Kamili in an Instagram post. “The skinline was first developed as I was approaching 50 and I decided makeup was not working on my skin anymore and that if I showed my bare skin it would be a better alternative but it had to look good,” continues Kamali on the NormaLife site.

Normalife can be used by both sexes and contains natural and understandable ingredients, such as charcoal, ground olive pits and fermented sugar beets. The line is free of parabens, sulfates, artificial fragrances, and preservatives. Normalife launches this week.

—William S. Gooch

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