Fashion News Alert: Olivia Culpo Lands Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Cover, Viola Davis’ Vanity Fair Cover, and Farfetch Partners with Fenty

July 16, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of DIY Photography

Times they are a changing, well, kind of. In 2019, Beyoncé was able to have her photographer of choice, a black photographer, shoot her cover for Vogue magazine, and now Academy Award-winning actress Viola Davis is following suit.

For her recent cover for Vanity Fair, Davis got to choose the photographer that she wanted, a black photographer, to shoot the cover and images within the publication. This happened to be the first time a black photographer shot the cover of Vanity Fair.

The photographer of this historic moment is Dario Calmese. The Vanity Fair cover is his first major magazine cover.

“Our mission at Vanity Fair is to capture the zeitgeist,” Vanity Fair Editor-in-chief Rahdika Jones writes in her editor’s letter, as reported in fashionweekdaily. “We feel that responsibility especially keenly at this moment, when it seems as if our ways of seeing each other may be shifting, finally. What can one person’s face on a magazine cover accomplish, in this context? It can add to our pantheon of people whose work and ambition we aspire to. That is no small thing.”

 “This is [Calmese’s] first major magazine cover, and we celebrate him and honor his vision at this heightened moment in American history,” writes Jones. “No amount of praise or censure affects me, in my current role, so much as the hope that our choices might inspire a young person—a future actor, director, photographer, writer—to pursue their own creative vision or imagine [themselves] in our pages,” continues Jones.

Image courtesy of usweekly.com

Olivia Culpo keeps busy

Olivia Culpo is one of those actress/models who always seems to keep busy. The former Miss USA and Miss Universe has acquired a very high honor, the cover of the 2020 Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue. Culpo shares the cover with supermodels Kate Bock and Jasmine Sanders.

“This is still so exciting for me,” the 28-year-old model/actress—who’s been in the mag three years in a row now—told The Post. “I created a vision board years ago to get into the magazine.”

All three cover models are veterans of the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue. And they are all friends. “I have been friends with them for a very long time,” Culpo says, as reported in The Post. “During the shoot, we were so kind to each other and wanted to make sure each of us was comfortable.”

Image courtesy of lofficielarabia.com

Fenty and Farfetch

Rihanna’s fashion brand, Fenty, has announced a retail partnership with Farfetch. Farfetch is not the only online retailer to carry Fenty outside of the Fenty’s own website. Fenty is financially backed by LVMH.

Giorgio Belloli, chief commercial and sustainability officer at Farfetch commented, “We are thrilled to welcome Fenty to the Farfetch platform. We’ve long admired Fenty’s innovative approach to luxury fashion retail and the way they champion inclusivity for customers.” 

“Fenty was looking for a retail partner to double-down on its digital-first business model and with our global customer base and industry-leading platform model, it’s an ideal opportunity to work together,” Belloli continued as detailed in fashionnetwork.com.

Fenty’s launch with Farfetch is the third drop of Fenty’s 6-20 collection, which commemorates the irrepressible creativity, hope, and spirit of the youth community. 

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Sports Illustrated’s First Trans Model, Brooks Brothers Files for Bankruptcy, and Virgil Abloh’s Scholarship Fund

July 9, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of usweekly.com

The month of July is turning out to be a month of change. Several US cities are having serious conversations about defunding the police, and some US cities have even passed legislature to put police defunding in place. Also, several US cities are tearing down Confederate monuments.

Add to this incredible restructuring of police forces, and re-examinations of American history, Sports Illustrated has tapped into this era of change by putting the first transgender model in the coveted Sports Illustrated Swimsuit edition. Trans model Valentina Sampaio will appear in the upcoming 2020 swimwear issue which will be available on July 21. Sampaio joins rookies Lorena Duran, Kim Riekenberg, Brooks Nader, Marquita Pring, Anita Marshall, Hyunjoo Hwang, and Josephine Skriver.

“The team at [Sports Illustrated] has created yet another groundbreaking issue by bringing together a diverse set of multitalented, beautiful women in a creative and dignified way, ”Sampaio says, as reported in fashionweekdaily.com. “I was born trans in a remote, humble fishing village in northern Brazil. Brazil is a beautiful country, but it also hosts the highest number of violent crimes and murders against the trans community in the world—three times that of the U.S.”

 “Being trans usually means facing closed doors to peoples’ hearts and minds. We face snickers, insults, fearful reactions and physical violations just for existing. Our options for growing up in a loving and accepting family, having a fruitful experience at school or finding dignified work are unimaginably limited and challenging. I recognize that I am one of the fortunate ones, and my intention is to honor that as best I can,” adds Sampaio.

“We are deeply moved that Valentina was willing to put her trust in us and we didn’t think twice about wanting to amplify her voice, her message and give her a platform to advocate from on behalf of her personal aspirations and the trans community,” MJ Day, editor of Sports Illustrated Swimsuit, says. “That is what we can do as a brand, especially during these uncertain times- support her and celebrate her.”

Image courtesy of thinknummedia.com

Bankruptcy for Brooks Brothers

In case you didn’t know, Brooks Brothers has been in existence for over 200 years. Unfortunately, the legendary menswear brand is on the precipice of closing. 

On Wednesday, Brooks Brothers requested protection from its creditors in a Delaware bankruptcy courts. Brooks Brothers is currently looking for a buyer and closing 50 of its stores. As reported in the Wall Street Journal, WHP Global and Sparc Group LLC are poised to put in a bid for the menswear brand. If either one of the firms acquires Brook Brothers, either firm has confirmed that they will keep most of the Brooks Brothers’ stores open and shepherd the menswear firm through it Chapter 11 bankruptcy proceedings.

Brooks Brothers was founded in 1818 by Henry Sands Brooks and has dressed 41 out of 45 US presidents.

Image courtesy of high.org

Virgil Abloh gives back

Virgil Abloh has announced a $1 million scholarship fun for African American creatives. Abloh has come under intense scrutiny and criticism by many in the African American community for recent comments about not feeling connected to African Americans though the Ghanaian American designer is a native of Chicago. Also, Abloh was criticized for contributing only $50 to defense funds for Black Lives Matters protesters.

The Virgil Abloh “Post-Modern” Scholarship Fund is financially funded by Abloh, Louis Vuitton, Farfetch, Avian, and New Guards Group. The Abloh Scholarship will work in conjunction with the Fashion Scholarship Fund—in operation since 1937—which creates opportunities for young American fashion creatives.

“By the metrics we’re projecting, we’ll put 100 kids, Black kids, through a wide spectrum of educational institutions. I started as a 17-year-old kid whose parents wanted him to be an engineer, but I wanted to be a fashion designer … I’m 39 years old and it’s taken me that time to work to get here and prove my pedigree and to be in a position to activate change, says Abloh, as reported in vogue.com.”

Abloh continues, “A benefit of this uprising is that we are paying attention to systemic problems … we can’t move on … It’s time for us not to make this industry about fashion, but about people… And I’ve been pouring that into my own work. I’m looking at this as a call to action for me to take on more challenges that don’t only end up on the runway, but that end up changing people’s lives.”

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: NYFWS Goes Digital, Shoppers Return to NYC Luxury Stores, and Kylie and Kendall Accused of Not Paying Workers

July 2, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of newyorkfashionweek.com

New York Fashion Week: The Shows (NYFWS) is going forward with its spring 2021 fashion season. But there are some substantial changes. NYFWS has been cut down from six days to three days and the entire season will be digital.

The CFDA felt that these adjustments to the NYFWS was necessarily due to the COVID-19 pandemic. “We can fit the same amount of shows into three days because of no need for travel time in between the shows,” Mark Beckham, CFDA vice president of marketing and events, told WWD.

“First and foremost, protecting the health and well-being of our teams and ourselves, and stabilizing business operations. With that in mind, the CFDA is currently reviewing all upcoming important dates including New York Fashion Week and market dates,” explained the CFDA in a press release.

NYFWS spring 2021 season will take place September 14 through September 16.

Image courtesy of stylecaster.com

Kendall and Kylie stiff workers

Garment workers in Bangladesh claim that Kylie and Kendall Jenner have not paid them for their manufacture of the Kendall + Kylie fashion brand. Remake, a nonprofit dedicated to creating an ethical fashion industry, alleged in a recent article that the Kendall +Kylie fashion brand “refused to pay its garment suppliers for orders produced in February and March following a drop in sales caused by the coronavirus pandemic,”[ leaving factory workers] “starving around the world.” Kendall + Kylie is owned by Global Brands Group (GBG).

The Kendall + Kylie team addressed the issue on Instagram claiming that the brand is no longer owned by GBG by by the Canadian holding company, 3072541 Canada Inc. “We know that these are trying times for the fashion industry and garment workers as a whole, and we continue to support all of our partners working in the factories who produce our products. We manufacture in countries all over the world and have not received any concerns from the factories who produce our goods,” the post said on Instagram.

Remake has reached out to the Kendall + Kylie brand for a continued dialogue about this concern.

Image courtesy of nypost.com

NYC luxury stores reopen

Tiffany & Co., Nordstrom Inc., and Saks Fifth Avenue opened their New York City flagship stores on Wednesday. As these luxury stores reopen, there is a huge amount of luxury product that has been heavily discounted. All this goes to the advantage of shoppers who can make out like bandits on all the unsold inventory.

That said; some luxury brands like Chanel, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton have increased prices on product to make up for all the money lost due to the COVID-19 shutdown. “It’s no longer good enough to look at how sales are versus a year ago. We need to look now week by week” by keeping tabs on how stores are performing, foot traffic and unemployment figures, said NPD Group’s chief industry analyst, Marshal Cohen in a recent fashionnetwork.com article.

Many NYC luxury stores are taking into consideration that many luxury consumers fled NYC for the Hamptons and other summer enclaves in mid-March as the NYC became a COVID-19 hotspot. Also, with tourism very low in NYC due to the COVID-19 pandemic, luxury retailers realize they are still going to have challenges moving luxury goods

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Halima Aden’s New Gig, Michael Kors Cancels NYFW Show, and Diane von Furstenberg Layoffs

June 18, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of essence.com

Fashion model Halima Aden has a new job. Aden has been named diversity editor-at-large at Vogue Arabia. Her duties will include a monthly column highlighting “hard-hitting social topics, inspiring personalities, and committed organizations with impactful work.”

In 2017, Aden was the first model to grace the cover of Vogue in a hajib. Aden was also the first model to walk the runway during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) wearing a hajib. Additionally, Aden won The Daily’s Breakthrough Model award at The Fashion Media Awards in September 2019.

“Now, more than ever, using my voice and personal experiences to educate others is at the forefront of my agenda,” Aden said in a statement. “It is with great pride that I join the team at Vogue Arabia as diversity editor at large. I look forward to sharing content ranging from human rights issues to race and diversity, acceptance, and inclusion.”

“Although Vogue Arabia has always celebrated an inclusive policy—both in its editorial line and team—I believe that in order to create content that is truly effective and meaningful, we need extra support from someone who embodies the values of our time and understands the struggles and all the layers of the topics that society is discussing now,” Manuel Arnaut, Vogue Arabia editor-in-chief said, as reported in dailyfrontrow.com.  “That motivated me to invite Halima Aden to join our team as diversity editor at large, helping us to better curate topics and continue our history of catalyzing meaningful discussions on themes relating to equality, inclusion, and human rights. I’m excited to continue our journey together.”

Image courtesy of adweek.com

Diane von Furstenberg repositions her brand

As Diane von Furstenberg commits to becoming a digital brand, the esteemed brand has laid off most of its staff, closing all but one of its brick-and-mortar stores. The layoffs will affect most of Furstenberg’s 400-plus employees, leaving only the brand’s meat packing store open.

The Diane von Furstenberg fashion brand has been struggling financially for some time with several changes in leadership. The current CEO Sandra Campos recently resigned.

The brand is refocusing its energies toward China, following a trend by many high-end fashion brands. According to a report in The State of Fashion 2020, China contributes to 38 % of growth in the fashion industry. Since 2012, China has contributed to 70% of growth in fashion and this trend is expected to continue into 2025, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

Images of Michael Kors fall 2020 collection courtesy of tom+lorenzo.com

NYFW no-show

As tongues wag and rumors continue about the future of NYFW, Michael Kors recently announced that he will forego presenting during NYFW. Kors will present his spring 2021 collection in a presentation format at another location sometime in mid-October at a location not yet revealed. Kors may return to the NYFW roster in February 2021.

The brand has also decided to return its collection to just two major collections a year, spring/summer and fall/winter. “I have for a long time thought that the fashion calendar needs to change. It’s exciting for me to see the open dialogue within the fashion community about the calendar—from Giorgio Armani to Dries Van Noten to Gucci to YSL to major retailers around the globe—about ways in which we can slow down the process and improve the way we work. We’ve all had time to reflect and analyze things, and I think many agree that it’s time for a new approach for a new era,” expressed Kors in a release in a recent fashionnetwork.com article. 

Kors is one among a host of designers/fashion brands that are re-examining the fashion calendars and making key decisions about how they present their collections. A manifesto released by Marine Serre of Dries Van Noten explained the need for change in the fashion industry and market. The manifesto asked for a reduction in production, travel and promotions, as well as more ecofriendly runway shows. The manifesto was signed a several small fashion houses and Chloé, Thom Browne, Y/Project, Lemaire, Alexandre Mattiussi, Nordstrom, Bergdorf Goodman, Selfridges, and Harvey Nichols.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Virgil Abloh’s Foot in Mouth, “Next in Fashion” Cancelled, and The CFDA’s Initiative in Support of Black Fashion Talent

June 4, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of fashionista.com

Fashion designer Virgil Abloh may be a star in fashion circles. However, that level of esteem and prestige is not held for Abloh in many communities of color as he put a proverbial foot in his mouth, condemning on Instagram protests and looting due to the murder of George Floyd. Abloh also only contributed $50 in bail money to protesters jailed by the police.

Cardi B’s stylist Kollin Carter clapped back on Instagram at Abloh for failing to support the protesters and take a stand against the racism that contributed to the murder of George Floyd. “Some of you fashion houses and CEO’s are absolutely bogus,” Carter fumed in a graphic on Instagram Monday. “You take from the culture, and us brown Men and Woman for your traffic and profit but have absolutely nothing to say now,” he continued in the caption, as reported in the nypost.com.

Since Monday, Abloh has apologized for his comments. “If looting eases pain and furthers the overall mission, it is within good standing with me,” said Abloh. “I am fortunate enough to be able to rebuild my stores. And I am seeking out anyone who needs help rebuilding.”

Abloh also addressed his measly contribution to protesters’ bail fund. “I also joined a social media chain of friends who were matching $50 dollar donations,” wrote Abloh, as detailed in the nypost.com, clarifying that he’d actually donated $20,500 in total to “bail funds and other causes related to this movement.” However, the pioneering designer claims that he was on the “fence about publicizing total dollar amounts because I didn’t want to look like I’m glorifying only higher amounts.”

Image courtesy of Netflix

No second season for “Next in Fashion”

“Next in Fashion” will not be back for a second season. “Next in Fashion” made its debut in January on Netflix. “Next in Fashion” was hosted by Alexa Chung and British fashion designer Tan France.

“It remains unclear why Netflix has scrapped the series after just one season, although the internet entertainment giant is known to act quickly when shows don’t perform well or become too expensive. And of course, there’s always the chance that the Covid-19 crisis could have had a part to play in its demise, explained Tan France in a Variety interview.

On “Next in Fashion” 18 contestants competed to be named the next great fashion designer, a cash prize of $250,000, and a debut of their collection on Net-a-Porter. Net-a-Porter was one of the sponsors of the show. “Next in Fashion” was created and produced by theoldschool and executive produced by Robin Ashbrook and Yasmin Shackleton with co-executive producer Adam Cooper.

Image courtesy of wwd.com

The CFDA wakes up, finally

The murder of George Floyd and the ensuing protests is producing some interesting results in the fashion industry. The Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) chairman Tom Ford and the CFDA’s chief executive officer Steven Kolb have come up with an initiative that will produce systemic change when it comes to the fashion industry’s support of black talent. Both Ford and Kolb met with the CFDA’s board of directors to discuss creating an in-house employment for black talent, as well as implementing an inclusion and diversity program for their members.

Well, its about time; better late than ever. Read the full statement from Ford and Kolb, as detailed in fashionweekdaily.com, below:

The CFDA held a board meeting on Tuesday, June 2nd. Given the deplorable acts of racism and violence that we have seen play out in our country over this past week, our response as an organization was first and foremost on our minds and in our hearts.

Black people in this country are reeling from years of injustice stemming from institutional constructs such as slavery, segregation, mass incarceration, police brutality and economic and voter suppression. The Black community is experiencing anger and frustration on top of the effects of the global pandemic that has hit communities of color the hardest.

Having a clear voice and speaking out against racial injustice, bigotry and hatred is the first step, but this is not enough. This is a deeply disturbing moment that speaks to us all. Our world is in deep pain. Our industry is in pain and it is not enough to simply say that we stand in solidarity with those who are discriminated against. We must do something.

The CFDA outlines the below initiatives that will immediately be undertaken by the organization to create systemic change within our industry:

The CFDA will create an in-house employment program specifically charged with placing Black talent in all sectors of the fashion business to help achieve a racially balanced industry. This program will be tasked with identifying Black creatives and pairing these individuals with companies looking to hire.

The CFDA will also create a mentorship program and an internship program focused on placing Black students and recent graduates within established companies in the fashion sector.

The CFDA will implement and make available to our members a Diversity and Inclusion training program.

We will make immediate contributions and take up fundraising activities in support of charitable organizations aimed at equalizing the playing field for the Black community such as, but not limited to the NAACP and Campaign Zero—amongst others.

We urge each and every member of the CFDA to take stock of their corporate structure to ensure that they have a racially balanced workforce and we challenge the retail sector of the fashion industry to ensure that their roster of brands and their product assortment is representative of the Black talent within the industry.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Naomi Campbell’s New Gig, Paris Couture Fashion Week Goes Digital, and Versace, Michael Kors, and Jimmy Choo Stores to Re-open

May 28, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of dailymail.couk.com

COVID-19 may have slowed down the fashion industry, but it hasn’t slowed down Naomi Campbell. Any why should this pandemic slow down Naomi Campbell? After all, she is the ultimate supermodel.

Campbell has partnered with her friend of 25 years Pat McGrath to be the first-ever global face of PAT MCGRATH LABS. Campbell’s will be the face of the brand’s DIVINE ROSE collection and Campbell’s affiliation with PAT MCGRATH LABS will continue into 2021.

I am thrilled that my sister Naomi Campbell is our first official face at PAT McGRATH LABS,” McGrath says, as reported in dailyfashionrow.com. “Naomi’s beauty is without compare, but what truly makes her special, and the ultimate McGrath Muse, is her legendary loyalty, unparalleled work ethic and sublime soul. It is an understatement to say that I consider myself blessed to call her a friend. To be a part of her luminous legacy as a trailblazer in the worlds of beauty and fashion, is truly an honor.”

Image courtesy of tatlerthailand.com

The couture digital experience

The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the French governing body the regulates and controls Paris Fashion Weeks, recently announced that Paris Couture Fashion Week will be a digital experience only. Couture Fashion Week takes place from July 6 through July 8.

“This event will be structured around a dedicated platform. The principle of the official calendar is maintained. Each house will be represented in the form of a creative film/video. Additional content will be included in an editorialized section of the platform. All of this will be widely shared on the main international media networks,” explained the federation.

Most couture houses that present collections in Paris has agreed to work with the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on this digital initiative. This initiative will operate under the title Paris Fashion Week Digital.

Image courtesy of fashionwindows.com

July is re-open month

As some stores and boutiques opened in Paris earlier in the week, some top luxury stores are primed to open in the US by early July. Capri Holding Ltd., the luxury group that controls Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo recently announced that there a rollout of boutique openings in the US in early July. All three store brands have been closed since mid-March.

In a press release Capri detailed that they “[anticipate] having the majority [of stores opened] by early July 2020.  While we are still early in the re-opening process, we are encouraged by the initial response.”

Almost 60%of Michael Kors, Versace, and Jimmy Choo stores have opened in the Middle East, Asia, and Europe since their closure in Mid-March with stores in Greater China closing in mid-January. Capri is set open the rest of the stores by early July 2020. “Sales at reopened stores are approximately 50% of prior year volumes since reopening as compared to the same period last year,” said Capri, as reported in a fashionnetwork.com article.

“The COVID-19 pandemic has profoundly impacted our lives and our business in ways we could not have anticipated.  We have a portfolio of three iconic, founder-led fashion luxury houses that continue to inspire passion and enthusiasm with their customers.  As the world emerges from the global shutdown, we believe our consumers will once again express themselves through fashion and luxury.  We remain confident and optimistic about the long-term opportunities for each of our unique luxury houses,” explained Capri Holdings Ltd. Chairman and CEO John Idol.
 
 With the re-opening of stores there will be a concentrated effort on health and safety protocols. These new safety protocols will include appropriate personal protective equipment, screenings and temperature checks.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Gucci Abandons the Fall Runway Season, Gareth Pugh to Return to Runway, the CFDA and the British Fashion Council Issue Joint Statement

May 21, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Gucci Pre-Fall image courtesy of fashionela.com

Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, announced on Instagram that Gucci will not show for the upcoming runway season. Additionally, Alessandro Michele announced that the Gucci brand will produce only two shows a year in the near future.

“I will abandon the worn-out ritual of seasonalities and shows to regain a new cadence, closer to my expressive call. We will meet just twice a year, to share the chapters of a new story. Irregular, joyful and absolutely free chapters, which will be written blending rules and genres, feeding on new spaces, linguistic codes and communication platforms,” Michele wrote, as reported in fashionnetwork.com.

Though this announcement may seem dramatic, in real time Gucci had already cut back on the number of runways shows produced by the esteemed Italian house. Gucci only held three runway shows in 2019.

With this announcement, Gucci joins a growing list of designers that are abandoning upcoming runway seasons. Armani is skipping the upcoming couture season in late June, as well as July shows in Milan. In April, Saint Laurent confirmed that it will not present during Paris Fashion Week in September.

Image courtesy of cfda.org

The fashion statement of the month

On Wednesday, The CFDA and the British Fashion Council (BFC) released a joint statement about the future of the fashion industry. This statement was based on feedback from CFDA and BFC members and stakeholders’ concerns about the COVID-19 pandemic’s effect on the fashion industry.

“The COVID-19 pandemic is hitting the fashion industry from every angle and severely impacting all the global fashion capitals, and there is no immediate end in sight, there is an opportunity to rethink and reset the way in which we all work and show our collections,” details a message from the CFDA and the BFC.

Some of the suggestions in the joint statement include fashion brands return to presenting collections in their respective showrooms, fashion collections launching closer to the intended seasons, and delivery of product closer to the cadence of the retail season. The CFDA and the BFC are suggesting that fashion designers only produce two collections a year. This reduction will cut down on the global carbon footprint and fashion journalists’ constant travel.

The directives in this press release also acknowledge sustainability. “Sustainability is an important conversation in every industry. Through the creation of less product, with higher levels of creativity and quality, products will be valued, and their shelf life will increase. The focus on creativity and quality of products, reduction in travel, and focus on sustainability (something we encourage of the entire industry) will increase the consumer’s respect and ultimately their greater enjoyment in the products that we create.”

Image courtesy of theskinnybeep.com

The Brit is on his way back

Gareth Pugh is on his way back. After purchasing 49% of his company’s trademark back from Rick Owens, Pugh is primed to return to the runway in September of this year. Rick Owens’ production partners Olmar and Mirta SpA purchased a majority of Pugh’s trademark in 2006.

“I’m really excited to start a new chapter,” Pugh told WWD, as reported in a recent fashionnetwork.com article. “We’re in a moment where we’re all being invited to invent the future, so for me it’s important to be part of that cultural conversation now more than ever.”

“Every designer should own his own name and I’m glad we were able to be any kind of help when he needed us,” Owens told the publication. “Gareth and [his husband Carson McColl] are family, and I love that we were all married for a minute. But we always will be.”

Pugh has experienced success outside of the fashion industry. Pugh has collaborated with the New York City Ballet, London’s Royal Opera House, Christina Aguilera, and Cardi B.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Mary-Kate Olsen Files for Emergency Divorce, Condé Nast Layoffs, and JC Penny Files for Bankruptcy Protection

May 14, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of popsugar.com

Currently, life is not so great for Mary-Kate Olsen. There is trouble at home.

Page Six reports that Mary-Kate Olsen has filed for an emergency divorce from husband of five years, Oliver Sarkozy. According to court papers filed in New York’s Supreme Court, “it was clear my marriage was over… the relationship has broken down irretrievably.” Though her emergency divorce request has been claimed, New York City courts are closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Mary-Kate Olsen claims that she filed for an emergency divorce because Oliver Sarkozy wants her out of their home by Monday, May 18. Olsen contends that Sarkozy cancelled the lease of their residence without her consent. “I am petrified that my husband is trying to deprive me of the home we have lived in and if he is successful, I will not only lose my home, but I risk losing my personal property as well.”

The Post got hold of an email to Olsen’s attorneys from Sarkozy’s attorney Adam Turbowitz. “Olivier advises he went to the NYC apartment yesterday and noticed that a number of items of personal property were removed from the apartment. While Olivier has no issue with Mary Kate taking what she wants/needs, he would like a list of what has been removed so that he can keep track of who has what for the overall personal property division.”

Mary-Kate Olsen and Oliver Sarkozy married in 2015. The cuts were announced via a memo from the publisher.

Image courtesy of wwd.com

Condé Nast cuts staffers

Condé Nast is laying off over 100 of its US employees. Additionally, staff will also experience a reduction in hours.

“These decisions are never easy, and not something I ever take lightly,” Roger Lynch, the company’s chief executive, said in the memo, as reported in a recent article on fashionnetwork.com. “I want to be transparent about the principles and approach we used.”  

Condé Nast announced in April that it would be cutting between 10% and 20% of the salaries of staff that makes over $100,000. Those affected salary cuts include Anna Wintour and Roger Lynch. These salary cuts are due to a lose in revenue due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

Image courtesy of pymnts.com

More trouble for JC Penny

This week, JC Penny Co. filed for bankruptcy protection. The Chapter 11 protection was filed with the U.S. Bankruptcy Court for the Southern District of Texas.

The COVID-19 pandemic has mounted additional financial stresses on the megastore chain. Before the COVID-19 pandemic, JC Penny’s was already experiencing a lot of financial difficulties. The megastore was struggling with $4 billion dollars of debt. The Chapter 11 protection helps the megastore negotiate an agreement with creditors for about $900 million (743.6 million pounds) of fresh financing to aid operations, while it navigates bankruptcy proceedings.

At one time, the 118-year old store operated 1,800 stores and employed over 200,000 employees. Currently, JC Penny Co. operates 850 stores.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Giorgio Armani Opts for Milan Over Paris, Jessica Simpson Brings Up an Old Beef, John Varvatos Files for Bankruptcy

May 8, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of RTVE.es

Giorgio Armani recently announced that he will present his Emporio Armani’s men’s show, and women’s shows, as well as that of its next Armani Privé collection in Milan in September. The iconic designer has also decided to show his couture show in Milan rather in Paris where the brand usually presents his collections. The company still has not decided what format will used when presenting the collections.

The Armani Privé Haute Couture show will be presented in Milan in January 2021. Again, opting for Milan over Paris. The show will be a timeless collection that will contain winter and spring garments.

Image courtesy of wsj.com

Another one bites the dust

COVID-19 is having a deleterious effect of many fashion brands and the retail market. It looks as though John Varvatos is one of those brands experiencing financial difficulties. Like most fashion brands, Varvatos suffered at major hit when he closed his stores and laid off hundreds of employees on March 18 due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

One Wednesday, the John Varvatos Group filed for bankruptcy in the United States Bankruptcy Court for the District of Delaware. And the company, as a part of the bankruptcy filing plans to sell to an affiliate of Lion Capital LLC, the majority owner of John Varvatos. Currently, the John Varvatos Group has listed over $140 million in debt.

The John Varvatos Group has been struggling financially for years. Though the company has had significant collaborations with the Stoli Group and Converse, as well as “cost-cutting measures that involved altering the brand’s clothing to attract customers in the mass market, which didn’t resonate with the brand’s existing customers,” said Joe Zorda, the company’s chief financial officer, in court filings, as reported in fashionnetwork,com, these efforts had not turned the company’s financial situation around. 

John Varvatos launched his eponymous brand in 2000. John Varvatos’ brand reflects his love of rock n’ roll music.

Image courtesy of thecut.com

Jessica claps back

Is Jessica Simpson still holding a grudge against Vogue magazine’s former digital creative director Sally Singer? Hmm, Maybe!!

Looking back at previous Met Galas, Sally Singer penned a retrospective article on vogue.com’s “Only at the Met: An Oral History of the World’s Most Glamorous Ball.” Singer wrote, “ [Simpson’s] breast maybe fell out of her dress on the red carpet…and then at dinner it was suddenly like, whoa, Jessica Simpson’s breasts are across from me at the dinner table and they are on a platter and I’m looking at them.”

Simpson clapped back at Singer on an Instagram post referencing a famous 1957 picture of Sophia Loren throwing shade at Jayne Mansfield. “Feeling a little like Jayne Mansfield after reading this (inaccurate!) oral history of the #MetBall where I am body-shamed by [Singer].” She continued: “I have persevered through shaming my own body and internalizing the world’s opinions about it for my entire adult life. To read this much-anticipated article about the classiest fashion event there is and have to be shamed by another woman for having boobs in 2020 is nauseating.”

Vogue issued a formal apology to Jessica Simpson on the “Today Show.” “We are sorry that Jessica felt body-shamed by the anecdote in our Met piece,” the statement said. “That was never our intent, but we understand her reaction and we apologize for including it.”

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion News Alert: Andre Leon Talley Spills the T, Vogue’s June/July Cover, and Billionaire Kanye

April 23, 2020 by Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of pagesix.com

Just when you think Andre Leon Talley’s best days were behind him or he is fading into the fashion backdrop, he resurfaces. And this Andre Leon Talley re-emergence is the biggest ‘Venus rising from the sea’ event of all.

In September 2020, Random House plans to release Andre Leon Talley’s tome “The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir.” According to the Daily Mail, Andre Leon Talley gives critical insight into his relationship with Anna Wintour. And the behind-the-scenes to their sometimes tumultuous personal and work relationship was not always pretty.

“I do not consider this to be a vengeful, bitchy tell-all. When the galleys were finalized and printed, the first person I gave the galley to was Anna Wintour. I sent her an e-mail saying, ‘if there is anything that you see in the galley that you would like to be removed, please tell me and I will be happy to do so,’” detailed Talley in a recent WWD post.

According to Talley, Wintour did request that the passages about Wintour’s daughter Bee Schaffer’s wedding and few other passages be deleted. Talley confided that the book was not written to hurt Anna Wintour, but he got the courage to write book because of the success of his 2017 documentary “The Gospel According to Andre.”

Talley was Creative Director and Editor-at-Large—not simultaneously—at American Vogue for over two decades and is still listed as a contributing editor However, Talley says that his relationship with Wintour and Condé Nast has all but dissolved to nothing. “[The atmosphere at and Condé Nast] is very hypocritical. It has the veneer of being very polite, courteous, well-groomed and polished. When you are in the halls of Vogue, there is a certain standard of politeness, education, kindness, just human correctness. But that doesn’t go to the core of people. People are treated and mishandled terribly at Condé Nast and it starts at the top,” explains Talley.

“Through a career in fashion journalism, I hope that [The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir] will impart to future generations that you can survive as long as you are strong and that you believe in yourself. It is my goal that when I am gone of this earth, people will go to the library, pick up the book and be inspired by it.”

Image courtesy of usweekly.com

Kanye West is in the money

According to Forbes magazine, Kanye West is now a billionaire. Kanye West’s estimated wealth is $1.3 billion.

West’s ascendancy into the billionaire class is due primarily to his Yeezy footwear affiliation and development with Adidas. Kanye, who was once had development contracts with Nike, began collaborating with Adidas in 2015. The average Yeezy footwear sells for $200.

Kanye West’s fortune also comes from his music and real estate that he owns. Kanye West is the second rapper to be listed on Forbes billionaire list. West was preceded by Jay Z.

Image courtesy of fashionista.com

Vogue’s COVID-19 cover

It appears that American Vogue has jumped on the COVID-19 train, literally. Vogue’s June/July issue on cover states, “Our Common Thread. A Special Issue. Creativity in a Time of Crisis.”

This June/July issue has an unpublished Irving Penn photograph of a rose against a white backdrop. This marks in the first time in fifty years that Vogue has had still life on its cover.

“I’m of the great belief that we can find our way forward by also considering the past, and Mr. Penn’s legendary work is a beautiful and powerful conduit between the two; his decades of pictures for Vogue were always adept at conveying both deep emotion and journalistic acuity,” Anna Wintour wrote in an editor’s letter, as detailed in dailyfrontrow.com. “I was always proud of every image of his that we published, and this one is no different. I’m also pretty sure that he would have loved it.”

—William S. Gooch

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