Menswear — Page 17

Carlos Campos Spring 2016

July 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

For his spring 2016 collection, Carlos Campos was inspired by the “Forastero;” the mysterious outsider, the stranger in unfamiliar territory. The outsider is a common theme in Latin American literature and culture. This “Forastero” could be from a capital or the provinces and has relocated for business or work. He sits alones in cafes and plazas as he goes about his daily routine, known to no one.

“Growing up in Honduras, I as always struck by the Forasteros, these men who came to our town to work, who kept to themselves, and although they were outsiders, carried themselves with a quiet confidence as if they had always been there,” says Campos. “Often, they dressed in a sleek uniform-like way that telegraphed that they were from another place without making them stand out.”

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

In previous seasons, Campos has exploited his continued affection for color blocking, usually expressed in bold colors with very streamlined, masculine silhouettes. This season Campos minimized his predilection for color blocking, staying with his color palette of hunter green and navy blue. “My designs for this season may seem lighter, yet underneath they are still very tailored—with an almost clinical approach to layering,” detailed Campos.

Though there were more suits in this collection and a more structured formal approach than in previous outings, this collection did not contain the youthful approach or Campos’ genius for chic, fashion-forward projections that are accessible and consumer friendly seen in his other collections. The belted looks on many of his jackets, aged the masculine silhouettes and seemed more appropriate for an older demographic and by elongating the welt pockets on his bomber jackets and employing wide-legged trousers, and waist tie straps, Campos may have unconsciously placed those looks in the mid-1970s, reminiscent of jackets and slacks seen in Blaxploitation films.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, Campos is a talented menswear designer, and though this collection was misstep there were garments that demonstrated his creative brilliance. Standouts included white woven short with palm leaf and hunter green “forastero” camo lounge short, dark navy-coated canvas hooded cropped jacket with white open collar woven shirt and hunter green wool tailored short, and white cotton jersey tank with rose compass print.

—William S. Gooch

CWST Spring 2016

July 14, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

One of the things that stood out this inaugural season of New York Fashion Week: Men’s is that menswear designers are creating clothes for a different kind of male consumer, particularly the international traveler. This consumer may be in Dubai one week, the next week in Cologne, the next week in Seoul, Korea. And in between all this commuting for work and/or business, this consumer may take a quick rest and relaxation in some exotic locations as diverse as Rangoon, Ibiza, Sao Paolo or Aspen.

All this shuttling around the world requires clothes that travel easily and need very little maintenance. Also, this world traveler probably doesn’t wear the traditional suit for work or business. Whether he works in the tech industry, new media, entertainment, finance or fashion, his attire has changed. CWST, pronounced “quest,” is creating garments for just this type of male consumer.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

CWST creative directors Derek Buse and Joe Sadler took their guy from sandy beaches to the beauty and desolation of Death Valley. Inspired by “mother earth” in all her extreme terrains, the design duo’s spring collection echoed the polarized opposites of mother earth from her arid desolation to her natural beauty.

What was most appealing about this collection was Buse and Sadler’s evolution of the seersucker suit. Their “new seersucker” is lightweight with a touch stretch, facilitating ease of movement. This is the ideal garment for today’s international male traveler.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Where the collection went a little off kilter was when Buse and Sandler followed the design crowd and incorporated athletic references that came up flat and uninspired. Stay with works guys, the casual feel of your more tailored looks could be your bread and butter!!

—William S. Gooch

Boyswear Spring 2016

July 14, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

“Edelweiss, edelweiss, every morning you greet me.” Can a song from the “Sound of Music” inspire a collection? Apparently so, particularly if that collection finds wicked humor in the Manson Murders with a tongue-and cheek nod to the Von Trapp Family Singers. Oh, how dark can you go?

Boyswear’s hippy dippy, psychedelic blend of the 1960s California culture with the “Sound of Music” does have a connecting strand; still, the dark humor of this bizarre combination, though intellectually interesting, creatively missed the mark at times. At the end of the day, intellectual concepts aside, it is always about the clothes. And unfortunately, when the intellectual pursuits of the creative team override the retail viability of the garments, you are mostly left with fashion as art, or in Boywear’s case, Tyrolean-inspired costumes as play clothes. (The Von Trapp Family singers in pajama-like play clothes don’t always translate into wearable garments that consumers might be interested in.)

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, the child-like frivolity of this collection did have some appeal and the garments were well made, though leaning toward a little on the Captain Kangaroo aesthetic. Obviously, the design team at Boyswear is talented. They just need to go back to the drawing board and figure how to take their creative mien and turn their talent into clothes that are more wearable and less of foray into child’s playtime in the sandbox!!

—William S. Gooch

Malan Breton Bridal Spring 2016

April 19, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Greenfashionreverie.com

If there were a word to describe Malan Breton, that word would be persistent. Hmm, let’s try two words, persistent and courageous.

Since his appearance of “Project Runway” several years ago, Malan Breton is one of the few alumni of the designer competition show that manages to show consistently almost every season. And now Breton has taken on the mantle of bridal wear—which is a natural progression for designers whose ready-to-wear collections are getting some market traction.

For inspiration for his spring 2016 collection, Malan Breton looked to a marriage between Asian elements and Parisian couture with a cinematic twist. “Picture if Audrey Hepburn were to meet James Bond at the altar,” explains Breton in a press release.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the bridal menswear did somewhat reflect a formal James Bond–like persona from say, “Casino Royale,” the bridal gowns were a far cry from anything Audrey Hepburn would don. In fact, most the bridal gowns with the exception of a white floral print ball gown was as far away from bridal as could possibly be imagined. Most of the looks bordered on formal looks for a Washington, DC political affair in the 1960s. And some unfortunate pieces resembled leftover costumes from a modern-day “Gone With the Wind.”

Like most Malan Breton collections, his menswear outshines his women’s wear. And this debut bridal collection was no exception. His collection of tuxedos in silk, cashmere, and summer-weight wool were tailored nicely and would have a certain appeal to that groom who wants to make just as much of statement as the bride or his partner. And several of Breton’s menswear looks would be fitting for same-sex couples.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Still, for a first crack at bridal, this was not a bad beginning, though not a riveting success. Breton needs to go back to the sketch board and rethink his bridal aesthetic and what he is trying to say to the bridal customer. Expanding bridal to include a larger base—the male consumer—is one thing, but leaving the bride at the altar, so to speak, and not giving her bridal worthy options is unfortunate.

Better luck next time, Malan!!

—William S. Gooch

Skingraft Fall 2015

February 21, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Since first showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week (MBFW) a few seasons ago, Skingraft has expanded their design aesthetic beyond the skateboarder chic aesthetic. Though this design perspective in still prevalent in their collections, particularly in their menswear looks, the brand is not embracing points of view that solidly placing them in that constellation of new fashion design brands that has found that marriage between retail viability and cutting-edge design.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Inspired by young nomads trekking through the Peruvian mountains in search of new adventures and horizons, as well as the stories of alien activity—remember, legend has it that beings from another universe created Machu Picchu— designer Jonny Cota focused this collection on more wearable pieces that might appeal to that consumer beyond the skateboarder chic fashion set. That said; surprisingly there were more women’s look in this collection than in previous outings.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

The Peruvian “survivalist” nomad theme of this collection was heavily expressed in the outerwear. From Peruvian-inspired ponchos and shearling coats to leather bombers and buttoned-down, oversized jackets, Cota revealed an urban street savvy that was missing in some of Skingraft’s previous collections. And instead of just going with the current cape trend, seen in so many collections this season, Cota opted to go for his take on capes and caplets by including ponchos in this collection.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Though the brand is aiming for more retail viability, Cota in this outing did not stray to far from signature looks that the brand is known for; which is a good thing. Unlike some brands that strive for consumer appeal and loos their signature stamp, with just a few runway looks industry professionals and consumers can still easily identify a Skingraft garment. Standout looks in the collection are the leather-embossed tuxedo jacket with extended crouch pants, burgundy and black stripped wool poncho, leather and wool stripped bomber jacket, and tan and white stripped leather stripped belted jacket.

—William S. Gooch

Zang Toi Fall 2015

February 19, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

For over twenty years Zang Toi has made a name for himself as a designer of luxury women’s wear. Each season he excites Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week audiences with exquisite couture-like collections that denote his affinity for high-end, luxury garments.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

For fall 2015, Zang Toi looked to the beauty of Venice for inspiration. True to form, Zang Toi thrilled audiences and his consumer base with a collection that was sophisticated, chic, and above all, lush. (The production could have done without the aria “O mio babbino caro” from “Gianni Schicchi”.)

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

But this is to be expected from Zang Toi. Beauty and sophistication aside, Zang Toi’s fall collection lacked the youthful exuberance that was so much a part of several collections seen this season. Though Zang Toi incorporated references from the 70s, like some many of his fellow designers, overall this outing bore such a witness to the past that many of the garments lacked the buoyancy and sense of freedom that should be a part of every collection. In other words, Zang’s fall 2015 collection resembled more of an homage to the 1970s than a reference point updated to meet the needs of current consumers.

That said; the collection was very wearable, appealing to the female consumer who has the leisure and deep pockets to go to a variety of cultural events and opening nights. (That particular customer is Zang Toi’s dominant sales base.) Still, one would hope that Zang is looking to expand his design aesthetic and consumer base beyond the wives of financiers and rich Texas oilmen. And though the collection did contain a few sexy short skirts and dresses, those looks would appeal more to the consumer who believes her 50 is the new 30 and has the legs to pull it off!!

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Standouts in the collection were Zang Toi’s expertly tailored two-piece suits with fur-collar embellishments, fur-cuffed jacquard opera coat, a hand-embroidered Empire-waist gown, and the finale look of a dramatic coat with a hand-beaded nightscape of La Serenissima.

—William S. Gooch

David Tlale Fall 2015

February 17, 2015 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

While some fashion designers look to Africa as a source of inspiration and are influenced by a plethora of African motifs and themes as a dalliance or a concession, for South African-born David Tlale Africa is constant point of reference in essence his lifeblood.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Since showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week six seasons ago, David Tlale has evolved into a designer whose style and level of taste has distilled into a singular vision of sophistication and global charm. Tlale is fortunate that his South African background facilitates an assimilation of a variety of cultures—Zulu, Afrikaners, British, East Indian, and other South African tribal traditions.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

All these influences are infused into David Tlale’s collections. And for fall 2015 the synergy of these influences are almost seamless. From the East Indian and Muslim references that are evidenced in his men’s looks to Tlale’s feather embellishments that highlight African tribal influences to some of the soft draped looks that denote Madame Gres, Tlale has learned over the past several seasons how to meld all these points of view into garments that express origin while remaining commercially viable.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Like many designers this season, Tlale examined what fashion would look like in a dystopian world. Political and global social upheavals seem to be having an impact of designers for the fall 2015 collections, and though not necessarily a trend with the significant amount of designers using this theme as an overarching influence, unhinged societal order may become an emotional trend.

That said; Tlale’s predominant digital print in this collection is one of dried lava—and aftermath effect of cataclysmic disaster. With a color palette ranging from beige to cement to black with some metallic gold thrown in, Tlate ingeniously juxtaposes these dystopian-based colors and hues with soft fabrics of silk chiffon, silk organza, Ostrich feathers paired with rougher textures double crepe, brocades, and wool.

Images courtesy of Presley Slack/fashionreverie.com

Though a lot of the women’s looks were outstanding and impactful, what stood out as the most innovative was Tlale’s pairing of soft diaphanous, long silk chiffon skirt/aprons underneath structured men’s jackets. This combination of hard and soft, particularly with menswear looks, demonstrates where Tlale believes menswear is heading. Heading toward a melding of feminine and masculine silhouettes, eventually rendering a seamless synthesis of beauty and sophistication.

—William S. Gooch

Rochambeau Fall 2015

February 16, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

While some menswear designers are just discovering workout gear and street wear as casual work attire, Rochambeau has been solidly in that design aesthetic since their inception. Their predilection for having a penchant for street wear has always been a dominant point of reference in their collections. As any true genius, true creative are always ahead of their time. And it’s taken all these seasons for some menswear designers to finally catch up to Rochambeau’s raison d’etre.

Surrounding by three huge ice-like sculptures that contained everything from cigarette butts, to old metrocards, “I Love NYC” plastic bags and even old street telephone from the 90s, creative directors Joshua Cooper and Laurence Chandler gave even more street cred to their collection by having their collection surrounding by throwaway items found on dirty New York City streets.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Although these gritty NYC throwaways were “frozen in time,” so to speak, Rochambeau’s fall 2015 collection was not. In this outing, Cooper and Chandler were projecting what menswear would look like in a futuristic dystopian society; a deconstructed society where men still have a sense of style.

Dystopia seems to be the order of the day for many collections this season. From The Blonds to Nicholas Elliot to Chromat to Nicholas K, their perspective on world disorder, inspired by current events, is informing collections that are beginning to expand the industry’s fashion lexicon.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

This fall 2015 collection was highlighted by cyberpunk, futuristic military jackets juxtaposed against relaxed pants with extended crouch. Heavy layering commented on a planet where daily temperatures run the gamut of a thermostat, and can be added or taken off depending the time of day or climate. And swaddling scarves added a modern sophistication to a collection that was at times too heavy on concept, and light on retail viability.

—William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Fall 2015

February 15, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of style.com/Stefano Masse / Indigitalimages.com

Custo Barcelona’s men’s looks every season seem to have more retail value than its women’s looks. That is partially due to their less mixing and matching of disparate patterns and fabric combination with the men’s looks, rendering them more accessible.

Images courtesy of style.com/Stefano Masse / Indigitalimages.com

For fall 2015, Custo Barcelona’s men’s looks again surpassed its women’s looks, but barely. Since last season the brand has done an about face in an attempt to make the clothes have more consumer appeal. This direction has carried over to the brand’s fall 2015 collection.

Images courtesy of style.com/Stefano Masse / Indigitalimages.com

Even with this new direction, creative director Dalmau Custo will always maintain his signature aesthetic of disparate color combinations, fabrications, and silhouettes that are melded together to create a blazing miasma of color, shape and design, sometimes rendering masterpieces of fashion genius. And season after season, Custo has pulled out all the stops in this direction. Unfortunately, the brand has been up ended by Desigual who does the same thing at a much lower price point with less of a kaleidoscope of ideas and concepts.

Images courtesy of style.com/Stefano Masse / Indigitalimages.com

Though Dalmau Custo was inspired by stripes used to wash cars at car washes—you could see this reference in miniskirts that were shredded stripes resembling car wash stripes, an interesting take on the fringe trend—classic silhouettes seemed to rule Custo’s runway looks for fall 2015.

Images courtesy of style.com/Stefano Masse / Indigitalimages.com

Not only did classic silhouettes dominate the collection this season, the collection appeared most accessible when Dalmau Custo stayed with heavy coats in Mohair plaid and navy wool, non-distinguishing tweeds, and black-and-white plaids. Though there were pops of metallic-threaded colors and tribal prints though out this outing, the more somber pieces had more of an impact.

Images courtesy of style.com/Stefano Masse / Indigitalimages.com

Most seasons the Custo team has do a lot of tweaking to make the runway magic appealing consumers. However, this season many of the garments from the collection are already retail ready. It seems as though Dalmau Custo is learning how to save money and time. Kudos Custo Barcelona!!

—William S. Gooch

GARCIAVELEZ Fall 2015

February 14, 2015 by admin 1 Comment

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Cadillac New York Men’s Day (NYMD) introduces a lot of menswear designers to the New York fashion market that possibly would go under the radar if it were not for this separate day sponsored by Cadillac that occurs the day before the official start of New York Fashion Week (NYFW). The menswear brand GARCIAVELEZ is one such brand.

For fall 2015 GARCIAVELEZ creative director Carlos Garciavelez looked to the cultural nomad; that sophisticated world traveler who is inspired by his travels and looks to inject his wanderlust spirit into his daily life. This nomadic world traveler is not only curious about his surroundings and the world at large but also encompasses sleek lines and minimal geometric shapes into his wardrobe that reflect a kaleidoscope of global architectural design.

An architect by trade, Garciavelez’s points of reference are imbued with an architect’s sense of proportion and balance, evidenced in a collection that explores horizontal lines as it relates to the male silhouette. Horizontal lines spatially positioned on pockets, lapels and interesting locations on jackets give the impression at times of color blocking. The color blocking aesthetic would be appropriately pinpointed for this collection if Garciavelez were not drawing on his architectural background and his commitment to exploring geometric shapes and horizontal lines.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

Garciavelez also delves into the exploration of menswear as a synthesis of tailored men’s suits and athletic wear. These two disparate points of view actually complement each other in this debut collection with standouts being Garciavelez’s black tailored jacket with hoodie and charcoal jacket with hoodie.

—William S. Gooch