Menswear — Page 13

Robert Geller Spring 2017

July 13, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Robert Geller is a fashion editor’s designer. Now, what does that mean? A fashion editor’s designer translates into those designers who every season have a very strong reference point for their collections and who easily translate that inspiration into garments that are fashion forward, current, but also have strong retail value. Robert Geller is one such designer.

For spring 2017 Geller was inspired by the German youth art culture of the early 1980s. An irreverent youth explosion that leaned toward experimentation and DIY know-how fueled this 80s German art movement. Out of this phenomenon grew a burgeoning music and club scene, alternative magazines and zeitgeist, as well as some interesting street culture.

Geller has brilliantly translated this art scene of more than 30 years ago into a relevant, yet retail friendly collection that though reminiscent of a 80s fashion and pop music aesthetic seen in the US—think Tears for Fears, Thompson Twins, and Spandau Ballet—still has value to the modern male consumer.

At first glance, the unskilled eye would recognize these familiar 80s silhouettes and see nothing particularly innovative about the collection. However, at further examination, this collection speaks to genius of Geller’s ability to borrow from the past and pair his separates with expanded shapes and interesting textiles and colors in ways not quite seen before.

Geller takes the DIY spirit of that time and fusing that energy into man bags that resemble record albums. Geller also juxtaposes restrained volume against streamlined silhouettes evidenced in oversized pants paired with narrow jackets.

Though the color palettes is borders on a fall/winter palette scheme, Geller mixes these rather drab colors with the bold colors of magenta, fuchsia, and bright orange which expresses the peripatetic nature of that era. Geller also demonstrates his keen sense of experimentation by placing Polaroid appliques on everything from man bags to shirts and jackets.

Images courtesy of Ken Jones

Standouts in this collection are Geller’s charcoal black leopard jacquard sweater with charcoal/black leopard rose jacket, lime green Geron mock neck tee shirt with grey Robert blazer, black L/S shirt with green Cupro short, and fuchsia Geron S/S mock neck tee shirt wit black Robert blazer.

—William S. Gooch

Artistix Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The 80s are back. Then again, did they ever really go away? If you are old enough to remember 80s style or you just source 80s culture via youtube videos, 80s style was a true amalgam of music, street fashion, and political influences. (Think Boy George’s mix of punk fashion, androgyny, underground club culture, and street style.)

And remember there was no singular 80s fashion aesthetic. From early hip hop culture of oversized bling to an expanded color palette for menswear evidenced in slick slacks and jackets to the street vibe of punk, the 80s expressed an uninhibited fashion freedom that could only be matched by the 1960s.

Since 2013 Artistix has been the creative fashion palette of artist Greg Polisseni. Using Artistix as his fashion canvas, Polisseni infuses Artistix with his particular oeuvre for edgy street art. And Polisseni’s penchant for abstract street art is evidenced in a spring 2017 collection that uses Polisseni’s abstract art as digital embellishments on 80s menswear silhouettes.

Lapels were imprinted with Polisseni’s abstract images, as well as vests, pants and tees. An interesting concepts; however, what stood out most with this spring 2017 collection was how Polisseni, with the assistance of Andy Hilfiger, managed to combined his digital street abstracts with an 80s aesthetic and still keep the collection fresh and current.

Images courtesy of Evil Genius Group/Jason Conrad

Standout looks in the collection were the brand’s white sport jacket printed lapel with white printed moto pants, white leather printed lapel with black printed vest and black jeans, white printed coveralls with white tee with printed sleeves and black denim jacket wit printed sleeve and white printed shorts.

—William S. Gooch

Suitsupply Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin 2 Comments

Images courtesy of fashionisto.com

A supermodel once told me that, “it takes charm to open the door and charm to keep the doors open.” While those words of wisdom can be applied to any industry, those pearls of wisdom are more aptly true in fashion.

As a brand, Suitsupply does not recreate the proverbial fashion envelope or even re-establish men’s suiting. What the brand does, however, is bring consistent charm to a classic male silhouette, making menswear consumers rethink men’s suiting and continue their love affair with jackets and slacks.

Images courtesy of Suitsupply

And for spring 2017, the charm started with male models bicycling down Broome Street, looking like elegant English gentlemen on their way to classes at Oxford minus the once-mandatory student gowns. (Imagine Peter O’Toole in the cult classic “Goodbye Mr. Chips”.)

Inspired by the midcentury Bauhaus art movement whose focus was on functional beauty or more aptly penned “Art into industry,” Suitsupply applied this beautiful functionality into spring/summer essentials that have strong focus on good design that is streamlined into everyday life. Suitsupply demonstrated this design concept by employing lightweight fabrics—linens blended with cashmere, silk, and cotton—and a restrained tonal palette of off whites, burnt orange, grass, and dark navy.

Images courtesy of fashionisto.com

By using lightweight fabrics and a restrained tonal palette, Suitsupply facilitates appropriate seasonal layering which correlates to brand’s secondary theme of international travel. Remember, contemporary menswear fashion is global and spring/summer travel requires garments that can easily be mixed and matched, layered and stripped down.

That said; Suitsupply’s current dissertation on spring/summer suiting, though grounded in traditional masculine silhouettes, expands consumers’ choices around suiting. And Suitsupply’s streamlined approach to suiting, shirts and vests is in line with what the dapper well-dressed gent wants!!

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Spring 2017

July 12, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Perry Ellis has gone through several creative directors since the death of namesake founder Perry Ellis. Each creative director has attempted to put their individual stamp on Perry Ellis; even Marc Jacobs tried when he helmed the brand.

Michael Maccari who has held the title of creative director for two years is having possibly the best run at Perry Ellis. The brand has never looked more vibrant, youthful, and fashion forward without losing its signature aesthetic.

That said; for spring 2017 Maccari expanded the brand’s concept of layering with a nod toward botanical prints. Though this collection would work best for consumers in cooler spring climates, evidenced with all the shirt layering, jackets and long slacks and a darker color palette, there were pieces in the collection that would appeal to consumers that experience warmer temperatures.

There was also a strong active athleisure element to the collection combined with a junior men’s 80s motif. This collection is definitely for the younger consumer that Maccari is aiming for his evolved version of Perry Ellis. And Maccari is right on track with his projection toward a younger consumer, understanding that millenials are less attracted to fabrication and statement garments, leaning more toward utilitarian garments that speak to ease of comfort and destination.

Images courtesy of George Chinsee/wwd.com

Maccari also reinterpreted the suit for Perry Ellis in this spring collection. In this collection the newly evolved Perry Ellis suit for spring 2017 could be a tracksuit or a deconstructed navy jacquard suit that would work in a relaxed office environment or in a gym.

Standouts in the collection were the graphic rose jacquard bomber in Army with nylon navy crew neck, reflective vest in agave with mesh tan polo, suede bomber in quartz, and jacquard ultra-light suit in navy with knit mesh navy shirt.

—William S. Gooch

Custo Barcelona Fall 2016

February 14, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

For fall 2016, Dalmau Custo looked to the 1970s in this 20^th anniversary of the Custo Barcelona brand. Contrary to what Dalmau Custo brings each season; this was a more minimalist, pared down collection. And in some respect that was a good thing.

As a brand Custo Barcelona’s menswear garments have always had more wearability; however, for fall 2016 the brand’s women’s pieces were more wearable without sacrificing the brand’s DNA of quirky, fashion-forward sensibility. Where in past outings, the brand always mixed and matched a wide array of color palettes, fabrications, and textures, for fall 2016 the brand instituted a more pared down approach to the brand’s signature aesthetic.

Dalmau Custo’s restraint produced looks that were more wearable and would perhaps appeal to a wider demographic. For the past few seasons the brand has looked to create garments that were more accessible and appealing to that consumer who is risk taking but still wants wearable clothes. And this new perspective is working for Custo Barcelona.

With Desigual stealing much of the thunder of Custo in recent season and the brand shuttering over 200 stores worldwide, this new business and creative model was necessary. Still, diehard Custo fans were reticent about this new approach, hoping that the brand did not become more commercial and its signature DNA stayed in tact.

The fall 2016 collection demonstrates that Custo’s fan base need not be worried. In this collection entitled “Reborn,” Dalmau Custo repositions the brand and this is evidenced in some of the first looks of the collection. The brand has always been known for creating one-of-a-kind fabrics and textures, and with the creation of the raffia interwoven with a metallic thread combined with a shiny fabric that is a cross between patent leather and vinyl, the brand is staying true to its design aesthetic.

In past seasons, Custo Barcelona’s men’s looks have out trumped the brand’s women’s garments in terms of wearable appeal. However, this season Dalmau Custo minimalist and restrained approach was also applied to the women’s looks, producing garments that would have a wider appeal.

Images courtes of InDigital.tv/vogue.com

Standout looks include the leopard coat looks combined with black raffia, the purple and white ombre looks, and the brand’s black shiny vinyl ruffled garments. Happy 20^th.

—William S. Gooch

Woodhouse Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion editors are always looking for that next designer/brand that is not afraid to take risks and creates a collection that is a combination of the now and next aesthetic that satisfies the ever-changing palette of consumers. It is one thing to whet the evolving style palette; however, it is a challenge to also create garments that predict what consumers will want in their wardrobe before they know.

Woodhouse is an emerging menswear brand that is doing just that. For fall 2016 creative director Julian Woodhouse was inspired by Korean street style and military themes. Being an army brat, Woodhouse drew from personal experience. However, this debut showing during New York Fashion Week: Mens (NYFWM) was much more than that. This collection contained garments that would be a first in most men’s wardrobe.

That said; most of the silhouettes in this collection have been seen before. However, what stands out most in this NYFWM debut collection is Woodhouse’s ability to combine well-known silhouettes—extended crouch pants, padded shoulders, jackets with restrained volume—and funnel these styles through a lens of contemporary style and fashion-forward sensibility.

Though this collection was definitely for a younger consumer with a thirst for the next in menswear fashion, there were some separates that could work for a wider male demographic. And Woodhouse’s utilitarian approach to contemporary menswear was an added plus to this collection. There were jackets with embedded, detachable backpacks, jackets with removable asymmetrical panels, and high-waist pants with a removable train.

Images courtesy of OMEN PR

At times this fall 2016 collection did appear disjointed with some garments that would work mostly in photo editorials. Still, for a debut outing Julian Woodhouse is on the right track. And in a market place with lots of unspectacular, pedestrian collection, Woodhouse is a refreshing addition.

—William S. Gooch

Dexterdexterdexter Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Fashion editors are always looking for what’s next in men’s fashion or that innovative designer that is pushing menswear into new directions. The fashion industry may have just found that in the brand Dexterdexterdexter.

In only its third collection, for fall 2016 the brand looked to classic men’s silhouettes juxtaposed against the modern male consumer. Traditional silhouettes were repurposed for how the modern man lives his life and for the modern male consumer who though attracted to traditional menswear is not shy of taking a plunge toward the outré as long as the look is chic and sophisticated.

With that perspective in mind, Dexterdexterdexter took classic silhouettes and in some cases deconstructed the looks, reassembling the garments to appeal in a more contemporary way for the modern consumer. Though the brand stayed mostly with a neutral palette, this fall 2016 outing came alive when it came to the unique way the brand envision and executed clothing for the contemporary consumer.

Images courtesy of Omen PR

Skirting for men has been around for almost three decades. And most innovative menswear brands have made a foray into combining masculine and feminine silhouettes evidenced in their play on the man skirt. Dexterdexterdexter follows suit in this collection. And where some brands take on the man skirt does not reflect the DNA of the brand, Dexterdexterdexter man’s skirt fits right in with the signature aesthetic of the brand.

Standouts in the collection include the brand’s feathered man skirt, black dress jacket with black wrap man skirt, and tan man apron with white tee and trousers.

—William S. Gooch

Perry Ellis Fall 2016

February 6, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Since Perry Ellis’ death in the mid-1980s, the Perry Ellis brand has gone through several creative directors. For the last four years, Michael Maccari has elevated the brand to explore and develop the modern American males’ evolving style and desire for more variety silhouette, construction, fabrication and texture. Understanding that the menswear market is one of most expanding markets in the fashion industry, Maccari wisely in injecting more innovation and measured risk into the Perry Ellis brand.

For fall 2016, Maccari stayed with the classic silhouettes that the brand has become known for seen through a prism of a more modern, exaggerated approach to those silhouettes. Macccari approaches the Perry Ellis classic sports jacket with his perspective on restrained volume.

Understanding that the American male consumer has become more comfortable with a wider choice of colors, tones, and fabrications, this season Maccari has incorporated deeper hues of burgundy, goldenrod, plum, colonial blue, chestnut, teal, and mauve. (Who would ever think that Perry Ellis would include a floral jacquard suit, a wool-pleated grey tracksuit, and a red flannel suit?)

And with the American male consumers more expanded embrace of fashion, for fall 2016 Maccari has included some interesting fabric combinations, textile innovations, and layerings. For example, Maccari has created a basket weave Sierra Gilet in navy paired with micro windowpane indigo suit, as well as a techno tweed suit paired matched with a Foulard printed teal shirt.

At a perfunctory glance the collection has a basic, minimalist appeal. However, at closer examination, Maccari has created a fashion mélange of complicated color palettes, fabrications and textures that seamless forward his vision of modernity and sophistication. “When you step back, you start to get the bigger picture of shape and proportion, but when you get closer, that image is actually made up of many complicated textures and colors,” explained Maccari.

Standout looks in the fall 2016 collection are Maccari’s floral jacquard suit in navy with floral jacquard Gilet and flannel shirt in colonial blue, techno shearling in navy, basket weave bomber in navy with cashmere crewneck in Bernice beige, and cashmere funnel neck in chestnut with techno tweed trousers in taupe.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

With this fall 2016 collection, Maccari has made Perry Ellis a lot more relevant to younger consumers without losing his base of male consumers who like classic silhouettes. And his inventive pairings of innovative textiles, colors and fabrications will keep male consumers—particularly those opposed with style—wanting more.

—William S. Gooch

Nick Graham Fall 2016

February 5, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

Coming up with an innovative collection is not the only way to get editors and industry professionals’ attention. After all, it is an arduous task to create eye-catching, innovative collections with a new perspective on silhouette, design and construction every season.

For fall 2016 Nick Graham found a way to celebrate traditional suit silhouettes with a presentation that combined an interesting inspiration—National Parks complete with park rangers. Models were perched on boxes surrounded by flora and fauna, and on occasion the flora and fauna was an extension of the clothes. Hats with huge plumes and birds attached; blossomed branches extending out of trousers; plumage spilling out of suit jackets, and floral headdresses with bird’s nest. And his inclusion of top male models such as Sebastian Suave and Travis Smith was an added attraction.

Though at times the flora and fauna embellishments were a distraction from the actual collection, overall Graham achieved his goal, a modern dissertation on suits. And Graham’s layering and pairing of polka dot, floral print shirts with pinstripe and plaid three-piece suits were fashion forward and reflects they way the modern male consumer approaches suiting.

By pairing some of the suits with hiking boots, and a sundry of hiking gear with the fitted, slim pants in this collection, Graham demonstrates that modern suiting can reflect a more relaxed, mobile lifestyle and goes beyond the more traditional, business projections of men’s suiting. In other words, modern suiting is and can be fun, and project a lifestyle of ease, comfort, and in Graham’s case, whimsy.

Images courtesy of Thomas Iannaccone/wwd.com

And that is a huge part of the charm of this collection; the whimsical affection injected each garment. Men’s suiting will never be the same!!

—William S. Gooch

SIKI IM Fall 2016

February 5, 2016 by admin Leave a Comment

The “Undead” as inspiration for a menswear collection, odd you might think? An odd is right. But, if any menswear brand can pull it off, SIKI IM is the brand that can do it.

For several years SIKI IM has established itself as a brand that always looked to the unique and outré for inspiration. In previous outings SIKI IM has looked to goth themes, Safari North African chic, and boyish 90’s playful styles. As most fashion pundits have noted, a wide range of influences is the norm for SIKI IM, combining the outré with urban sophistication and fashion-forward sensibility.

That said; for fall 2016 SIKI IM looked to the “Undead.” Not an unusual direction for the brand in that SIKI IM is a lover of vampire lore. Still, can SIKI IM take this macabre motif and make wearable clothes with a certain amount of chicness and sophistication.

The answer is, yes!! Though some of the ghostly painted faces and dark red paint oozing out of the mouth of the models was at times ghastly theatrical and a bit distracting, the garments were a perfect melding of great layering and a modern distillation on restrained volume. And a couple of garment combinations that were shirtless or excluded tops lent an element of sensuality and urban swagger to the collection.

Images courtesy of Ernest Green/fashionreverie.com

SIKI IM’s color palette choice of shades of grey, oxblood, black, and aubergine made the brand’s “Undead” reference more tangible. And the fabric choices and design silhouettes of luxurious cashmeres, woolen car coats and blazers, Teflon-coated canvas jackets and pants gave this fall 2016 collection a distinct modern projection. SIKI IM also combined this collection with separates from its extension line DEN IM. Though DEN IM’s fall 2016 inspiration was based on German art and the Bauhaus aesthetic, there was a connecting thread that worked well in pairing the extension line with SIKI IM.

—William S. Gooch