Fashion Flashback: Eileen Ford

Image courtesy of Ford Models

Image courtesy of Ford Models

Fashion Reverie takes a look back at the life of the legendary Eileen Ford. Considered the grande dame of the modeling industry, Eileen Ford died on Wednesday, July 9.

Ford Models: Images clockwise Brook Shields, Grace Jones, Naomi Campbell, Cheryl Tiegs, Lauren Hutton

Ford Models: Images clockwise Brook Shields, Grace Jones, Naomi Campbell, Cheryl Tiegs, Lauren Hutton

Singlehandedly, Eileen Ford changed the modeling world from catch can, badly managed industry to a serious business where models signed million dollar yearly contracts. Ford Models, founded in 1947 by Eileen Ford and her husband managed some of the top models in the industry from Suzy Parker, Jean Shrimpton, Naomi Campell, Grace Jones, Verushka, Cheryl Tiegs, Christie Brinkley, Jerry Hall, and Christy Turlington to model/actresses Jane Fonda, Ali McGraw, Lauren Hutton, Kim Basinger, Brooke Shields, Candace Bergen, and many others.

Starting her agency out of her parent’s home, Eileen Ford, a former model herself, quickly established a five-day workweek for models and helped organize a voucher syste for models, allowing them to be paid in advance of payment to the agency from clients. (Traditionally models waited some times up to a year to be paid from modeling assignments.)

Some of the agency’s early successes were the careers of Dorian Leigh and Carmen Dell’Orefice, with those early models making upward of $3,500 a week. In its 20th anniversary, Ford Models could boast of making $100,000 a week in bookings.

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Image courtesy of beautyflashblog.com

During the 1970s and 80s, Eileen Ford had to compete with rival agencies Elite Models and Wilhelmina for top models, prompting Eileen Ford to open offices around the world, expanding her model board to include plus size models, older models, children and artists. In 1980, Ford launched one of the first international modeling competitions, Ford Supermodel of the World.

Eileen-Ford-soloFord Models was sold to investment banking group Stone Tower Equity Partners in 2007. At the time of her death, Eileen Ford was 92.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion Flashback: Oleg Cassini

oleg cassiniFashion Reverie looks back at the career of fashion icon Oleg Cassini. Credited for creating the “Jackie Look,” Oleg Cassini was the personal couturier of First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy.

Born to an aristocratic family, his mother was an Italian countess and his father was an impoverished Russian diplomat, his grandfather was the Imperial Russian ambassador to Peking, Oleg Cassini immigrated to the US in the 1920s.

One of his first jobs was designing clothes for Paramount Pictures. He designed wardrobe for Veronica Lake, Natalie Wood, Marilyn Monroe, and Gene Tierney. And in 1948, Cassini moved to New York City and opened his own fashion house.

Cassini’s aesthetic as Vogue’s Hamish Bowles would describe it had “an incredibly hourglass, body revealing, high-impact” look. And as Cassini would describe his own design point of view “my philosophy is this: Do not tamper with the anatomy of a woman’s body; do not camouflage it.”

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A long-time family friend of the Kennedys, Oleg Cassini became the official fashion designer of the White House in 1960. Cassini created the “Jackie Look” which consisted of A-Line dresses and bracelet-sleeved jackets. Cassini’s looks for Jacqueline Kennedy became known as the quintessential American classic clothes, paving the way for such designers as Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, and Halston.

Images courtesy of olegcassini.com

Images courtesy of olegcassini.com

Cassini was also one of the first designers to land lucrative licensing deals. “Weitz, Cardin, Blass, and Cassini: We are the true fathers of the fashion movement,” he later said, “and designers are now millionaires because of us. You might say that I’m the Michelangelo of the dress business.”

Cassini also revitalized men’s fashion in the US by becoming the first designer to create dress shirts in a variety of bold colors, stepping away from the traditional white shirt with suits. He also dressed Johnny Carson, Michael Jordan, Burt Reynolds and Regis Philbin.

In 2003, Oleg Cassini received the Board of Directors SpecialTribute from the CFDA. Oleg Cassini died from complications of a brain aneurysm in 2006.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion Flashback: Diana Vreeland

Image courtesy of voguepedia.com

Image courtesy of dianavreeland.com

Fashion Reverie looks back at fashion icon and fashion editor extraordinaire Diana Vreeland. Diana Vreeland was responsible for singlehandedly changing the way American fashion publications and American women viewed and thought about fashion. Vreeland once said, “I think part of my success as an editor came from never worrying about a fact, a cause, an atmosphere. It was me—projecting to the public. That was my job. I think I always had a perfectly clear view of what was possible for the public. Give ’em what they never knew they wanted.”

Born in Paris, France, Diana Dalziel (Vreeland) was born to an aristocratic family that could trace it roots to the Rothschilds, as well as George Washington and Francis Scott Key. At the beginning of World War I, Vreeland’s family moved to New York City where she studied with noted ballet master Michel Fokine.

After marrying banker Thomas Reed Vreeland in 1924, the Vreelands lived first in London and later returned to New York City. “Before I went to work for Harper’s Bazaar in 1936, I had been leading a wonderful life in Europe. That meant traveling, seeing beautiful places, having marvelous summers, studying and reading a great deal of the time,” explained Vreeland.

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Image courtesy of dianavreeland.com

Harper’s Bazaar editor Camel Snow was impressed by Vreeland’s personal style and hired her to write the “Why Don’t You” column for Harper’s Bazaar.  Vreeland eventually became fashion editor at Harper’s Bazaar and worked very closely with Richard Avedon, Louise Dahl-Wolfe, and Alexey Brodivitch, helping to transform Harper’s Bazaar from a women’s publication to a renowned fashion magazine with ever-expanding advertising revenues. Though Vreeland accomplished this herculean effort, she was never paid more than $19,000 a year throughout her tenure at the publication.

Vreeland left Harper’s Bazaar in 1962 for Vogue and became its editor-in-chief from 1963–1971. Aware of the burgeoning youth culture of the 1960s and the thirst for diversity, Vreeland advocated and promoted models of color in the pages of Vogue from China Machado and Donayle Luna to Pat Cleveland and Naomi Sims. She also helped pushed the careers of Lauren Hutton, Verushka, Penelope Tree, Jean Shrimpton, Marisa Berenson, and Twiggy. Vreeland was also one of the first editors to choose exotic locations for her fashion editorials.

Collages289“Diana was the first person to pay attention to the youth revolution in the sixties,” said Oscar de la Renta in “Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel.” “She took the young photographers of the time like David Bailey and turned the magazine around—obeying what was happening.”

After being fired from Vogue, Vreeland became a special consultant to the Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute in 1972. Vreeland’s exhibits for the Costume Institute drew huge crowds, causing museums worldwide to recognize fashion as an art.

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                          Illustration image courtesy of Peter Emmerich

Several books have been written about Diana Vreeland. Her memoir D.V. was published in 1984; The Empress of Fashion: A Life of Diana Vreeland was published in 2012, and recently Vreeland’s great grandson Alexander Vreeland wrote Diana Vreeland Memos: The Vogue Years. In 2012 a documentary, “The Eyes Have to Travel,” detailed Diana Vreeland’s life.Diana Vreeland died in 1989.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Flashback: Ophelia DeVore

Downloads195Fashion Reverie looks back at African American fashion pioneer and businesswoman Ophelia DeVore.

Ophelia DeVore-Mitchell, former model, booking agent, charm school director, and newspaper publisher opened up the first African American modeling agency, the Grace Del Marco Modeling Agency, and charm school in New York City in the 1940s. Former clients and students included Helen Williams, the first black top model, actors Cicely Tyson, Diahnn Carroll, Bea Richards, Richard Roundtree, musical artist Faith Evans, and television personalities Sue Simmons and Melba Tolliver.

Cicily Tyson, Richard Roundtree and Diahnn Carroll, respectively

Cicely Tyson, Richard Roundtree and Diahnn Carroll, respectively

Emma Ophelia DeVore started her career as a fashion model in the late 1940s after graduating from New York University. With few opportunities for black models, DeVore was inadvertently able to pass for white because of her fair complexion and aquiline features. After a few modeling jobs, DeVore was regularly featured in the newly founded Ebony Magazine. Realizing that American publications, even black publications, of the 1940s were not interested in using brown or dark-skinned models, DeVore founded the Grace del Marco Modeling Agency, and later a charm school.

Helen Williams

Helen Williams

One of the modeling agency’s earliest and biggest successes was Helen Williams. Williams was the first African American model to be placed in advertising campaigns for Budweiser, Johnson & Johnson, and Bulova. Williams was also a showroom model in the 1950s for Christian Dior and Jean Desses.

Ophelia DeVore’s other accomplishments included writing a fashion column for the Pittsburgh Courier; hosting the ABC-TV program “Spotlight on Harlem” in the 1950s; serving on President Reagan’s Advisory Committee to the Arts, and publishing The Columbus Times.

Ophelia_DaVore_07“I wanted to change the way people of color were seen across the United States,” stated DeVore in the black-themed news site The Grio last year. “I wanted America to know that beauty isn’t just white.”

 Ophelia DeVore-Mitchell died on February 28. She was 91 years old.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion Flashback: Francesco Scavullo

Collages176Fashion Reverie looks back at renowned fashion and celebrity photographer Francesco Scavullo. This week marks the ten-year anniversary of Scavullo’s death. In addition to countless fashion and entertainment covers, any important celebrity of the 1960s, 70s, 80s, and 90s Francesco Scavullo photographed. From Elizabeth Taylor, Diana Ross, Lena Horne, Brooke Shields, Bianca Jaggar, Barbara Streisand, Madonna, Lou Reed, Sting, to Gia Carangi, Beverly Johnson, Verushka, Cindy Crawford, Cristy Turlington, Linda Evangelista, Kim Alexis and a host of others, being photographed by Scavullo meant you had arrived.

As a young child, Scavullo loved looking through his mother’s fashion magazines and after perusing photos of Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich before they became big movie stars became “fascinated by the thought that you could make people attractive.” By high school, Scavullo already knew that he wanted to work on the other side of the lens.

Collages175Scavullo first became an assistant to the great photographer Horst P. Horst at Vogue studios. There he learned cutting-edge lighting techniques, including the use of muslin filters and umbrella reflectors. But that most important thing that Scavullo  learned from his mentor Horst was establishing a friendly rapport  with clients.

Stacy_Chang_featureFrancesco Savullo’s first cover was for Seventeen magazine. As Scavullo began to shoot for every major fashion and entertainment magazine and develop a huge celebrity clientele, with the help of makeup artist Way Bandy, hairstylists Suga and Maury Hopson and personally selected wardrobe, he created the Scavullo look.

Collages177Though Scavullo was wildly popular through the 70s, 80s and into the 90s, he was known to be difficult, suffering from mood swings and depression that was later diagnosed as bipolar disorder. He died from heart failure  on January 6, 2004.

Francesco_Scavullo_13His work is in the permanent collections of the Museum of Modern Art, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and the National Portrait Gallery at the Smithsonian Institute.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Flashback: Grace Mirabella

Downloads83 Fashion Reverie looks back at editor-in-chief extraordinaire Grace Mirabella. Grace Mirabella served as editor-in-chief at American Vogue from 1971 to 1988. From 1989 to 2000 she spearheaded her own publication, Mirabella. Mirabella was a lifestyle publication that targeted women in their 30s and 40s.

Grace Mirabella stared as an assistant at Vogue in the early 50s and quickly worked her way up the ranks to assistant editor-in-chief under the legendary Diana Vreeland. Under the aegis of Mirabella, Vogue increased its readership from 400,000 to 1.2 million with advertising revenue upwards of $79.5 million.

Downloads82With a style that was different from Diana Vreeland, Grace Mirabella directed Vogue toward a casual style with affordable, yet fashionable clothes. Mirabella during her tenure also helped introduce Halston, Ralph Lauren, Geoffrey Beene, Saint Laurent, and Stephen Burrows to an international audience. This group of designers made clothes for the lives that women were living. When fashion became more opulent and flamboyant in the 1980s, Grace Mirabella felt out of place with this new direction in fashion.

Downloads81In her autobiography, In and Out of Vogue, Mirabella discussed her dismissal from Vogue by S.I. Newhouse for a younger consumer. With her own publication, Mirabella, Grace Mirabella recaptured her former Vogue demographic with a circulation of 400,000. When advertising revenue started to plummet in the late 90s, Mirabella went out of circulation.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Flashback: Sophie Dahl

 

NO CAPTION INFORMATION PROVIDED Sophie DahlFashion Reverie looks back at the career of British plus-size top model Sophie Dahl. In an era that celebrated the waif look of British supermodel Kate Moss, Sophie Dahl took runways by storm with her zaftig proportions and what some fashion captions defined her as “Sophie and the giant peaches.” Dahl’s breast size was the non-standard model size of 38DD.

Discovered by British stylist and fashion eccentric Isabella Blow, the 18-year old Dahl, who at the time was attending secretarial school, was signed immediately by Storm Models.  “She [Isabella Blow] got out of a cab in a Philip Treacy hat and a McQueen corset, sat down next to me, and said ‘Wow, you can be a model!’ So we went off to find my mum, who was, of course, sooooo annoyed. I was so smug about the entire thing,” says Dahl in an interview with Kira Cochrane in the Guardian.

Downloads63Soon followed campaigns with Versace, Alexander McQueen, Pringle of Scotland, Patrick Cox, Boucheron, Gap, the 1998 Pirelli calendar, Aubin and Willis, and Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium. Dahl’s Opium campaign ad, art directed by Tom Ford and photographed by Steven Meisel, had Dahl posed nude on black satin with cherry red hair was so controversial that it was removed from UK billboards with complaints that the ad objectified women.

Renowned fashion photographers Richard Avedon, Bruce Weber, Peter Bailey, Steven Meisel, and Peter Lindbergh have photographed Dahl. And Dahl has also graced the covers of British, French, German and Italian Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, W, I-D, Visionnaire, and V magazines.

Collages170Though most female fashion journalist’s loved Dahl’s curves, there were those fashion critics who felt that editorials that emphasized her voluptuous body, objectified women. “My size wasn’t something that I’d ever spent a huge amount of time thinking about —I guess at the age of 17 or 18, you don’t. You know, I just wanted to be reasonably the same shape and size as my friends so that I could borrow clothes from them. It was as simple as that. So to suddenly have what should be a private time, when you’re working out your relationship to your body, made very public was just extraordinary. It used to make me feel incredibly uncomfortable. Those photographs that should be fuel for tender family moments, or jokes between you and your best girlfriends, are suddenly all out there on the internet, for everyone to see for as long as they like,” detailed Dahl in a Guardian interview.

Collages168An accomplished writer, Dahl is the author of four books, The Man with Dancing Eyes (2003), Playing with Grownups (2008), Miss Dahl’s Voluptous Delights (2009), and From Season to Season (2011). She has also been a regular contributor to American Vogue, The Telegraph, The Guardian, The Observer, and the Saturday Times.

Dahl now lives in the UK with jazz singer husband Jamie Cullen and two daughters and occasionally models.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Flashback: Jean Shrimpton

Downloads430Fashion Reverie looks back at the iconic British fashion model/actress Jean Shrimpton. Shrimpton is considered one of the first supermodels and a symbol of Swinging London in the 60s. During her career, Jean Shrimpton was the most photographed and the most highly paid model of the 1960s.  Shrimpton’s face graced the covers of Vogue, Elle, Harper’s Bazaar, Glamour, Vanity Fair, Newsweek, Ladies’ Home Journal and Time magazines.  She also helped popularize the miniskirt.

Jean Shrimpton began modeling in 1960 and quickly began to appear in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and Vanity Fair. Glamour declared her “Model of the Year” in 1964. She was also dubbed “The Face,” “The It Girl,” and “The Face of the 60s.” Jean Shrimpton at the same timewas also nicknamed the “shrimp” due to her name, but also referencing the fact that she broke the trend of curvaceous models with her long legs and slim, coltish figure.

Collages237Shrimpton helped usher in a new wave of models that were a direct contrast to the aristocratic models of the 1950s whose look reflected the wealthy women who shopped mostly at couture houses. Closely identified with the Swinging 60s, Shrimpton helped bridge the gap between haute couture and the burgeoning ready-to-wear market. With her doe eyes, arched eyebrows, and long lashes, Shrimpton paved the way for another popular British model of the 60s, Twiggy.

Jean_Shrimpton_12Jean Shrimpton began a relationship with famed British photographer David Bailey in the early 60s and their four-year relationship was dramatized in the 2012 BBC Four film, We’ll Take Manhattan. Shrimpton also starred in the 1967 film Privilege.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Flashback: Marc Bohan

Marc_Bohan_06As Great Britain and the rest of the world anxiously awaits the royal birth of Prince William and Kate Middleton’s child, Fashion Reverie looks back at the career of Marc Bohan, a favorite designer of Princess Margaret. Currently, Kensington Palace is hosting, Fashion Rules, an exhibition celebrating the most stylish outfits worn by the royals throughout the years. The exhibition displays iconic outfits worn by Princess Margaret, the late Diana Princess of Wales and Queen Elizabeth II.

 Princess Margaret gown Image courtesy of hrp.org.uk

Princess Margaret gown Image courtesy of hrp.org.uk

Parisian-born Marc Bohan is best known for being the head couturier for the House of Dior from 1960 to 1989. Bohan started his fashion career with Robert Piguet and later as an assistant to Edward Moyneux. Before joining Jean Patou in 1952 and designing his couture collection, Bohan opened his own boutique and designed one collection.

Downloads420The more conservative Marc Bohan became head designer for Christian Dior after Yves Saint Laurent was called away for military duty in Morocco. For close to thirty years, Bohan maintained the classic look of Dior, borrowing heavily from previous Dior collections and reinvigorating the iconic looks with fresh points of view.  During his tenure at Dior, Bohan treated Dior’s signature haute couture aesthetic Bohan’s like luxury ready-to-wear, incorporating influences that were prevalent to changing styles and points of view.  Bohan’s lists of celebrity clients while manning the helm at Dior included Princess Margaret, Elizabeth Taylor, Princess Grace, Betsey Bloomingdale, and Sophia Loren.

Marc_Bohan_08Bohan joined the London fashion house of Norman Hartnell in 1989, and since 1992, Bohan has designed collections under his own label.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion Flashback: Andres Courréges

Andre_Courreges_headshotFashion Reverie looks back at French designer Andres Courréges. Courréges with British designer Mary Quant helped usher in the miniskirt. Trained as a civil engineer, Courréges first worked for Jeanne Lafaurie fashion design house and later for the famed couture house of Balenciaga.

Downloads406In 1961 Courréges opened his Maison de Couture. Influenced by modernism, technology and non-traditional fabrics, Courréges in the 1960s made his mark in the industry by creating Space Age garments that used plastic and metal. In his 1964 collection, Courréges used a variety of geometric shapes from triangles and squares to trapezoid shapes.

Collages224Always wanting to sell clothing that was affordable, Courréges often attempted to raise funds so that his clothes were more affordable. In recent years, Courréges has extended his brand to include luggage, accessories, and perfume.

—Staff

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