Features — Page 17

“Gilded Glamor” Seen Through the Lens of American Fashion Designers

May 4, 2022 by admin 1 Comment

Everybody loves the Met Gala. And the exhibit at the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum that inspire the red-carpet looks seen at the Met Gala is equally adored. Still, often the Costume Institute’s exhibit reflect fashion from earlier times being a reflection of where we have been in fashion.

Though these exhibits are expertly curated, customers may ponder how these exhibitions relate to their lives. And if they love the garments in the exhibitions, how they can incorporate some the design aesthetics into their wardrobe.

Fashion Reverie to the rescue!! Fashion Reverie has selected a few American designers whose spring 2022 collections reflect the Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute’s “Gilded Glamor” design aesthetic.

Images courtesy of wwd.com and shopstyle.com

Since his debut collection in 1991, Byron Lars has regularly employed a Gilded Age design aesthetic. You will find this silhouette made evidence in Lars continued employ of the classic Gibson Girl aesthetic. Lars takes stripped bodices and his version of a modernized bustle to enhance his customers’ femininity and elegance. And though, as in his current spring 2022 collection his corseted bodices are more relaxed, ensuing more movement quality and his stripped bodices are more in the form of a shirt dress, the Gilded Age aesthetic is still front and center.

Image courtesy of fashionreverie.com

For his spring 2017collection, Bibhu Mohapatra was inspired by the Belle Epoque era. “[in this Belle Epoque collection there] are a lot of fitted bodices and details from that era that I reimagine for today’s women. For instance, I might take inner garments and reverse them, making them the outer garments. I do incorporate some of the fitted elements from the Belle Epoque into this collection; however, for the modern woman I have given those elements more ease. There is a lot draping and combinations of sheer fabrics with heavier fabrics. I like to re-interpret these elements my way without having the garments look very period. That is a challenge I enjoy. I immerse myself in this world and I imagine how that woman lives her daily life and then I extract and make it all my own. My fabrics come from all over the world and the embroideries are still being developed for the collection.”

Though Mohapatra’s spring 2022 collection does not necessarily give a strong nod to a Gilded Age aesthetic, Mohapatra’s predilection for that aesthetic does pop up. Particularly, in Mohapatra’s use of exaggerated padded shoulders and cinched waists.

Images courtesy of Pinterest

No other American designers’ collections epitomize “Gilded Glamor” better than Pamella Roland. Known for her red-carpet looks, Roland has been employing classic silhouettes since the launch of her ready-to-wear brand 20 years ago. And her resort and fall 2022 collections are no exception.

Roland’s resort and spring 2022 collections do not source the Gilded Age specifically as its inspiration, the classic silhouettes of that era are in this collection and fit in quite nicely. And like many of Roland’s collections, this outing plays heavily on embellishments and whimsy.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Though she hasn’t shown in New York City for quite some time, Monique Lhuillier’s spring 2022 collection also fits very nicely into that pantheon of American designers that regularly borrow heavily from the Gilded Age design aesthetic. That said, Lhuillier’s fall 2022 collection was inspired by the Golden Age of Hollywood. And within that collection there were some looks that reflected a Gilded Age aesthetic.

With Lhuillier there is always a lot of beautiful embellishments on the evening gowns, gowns with trains, and some corset-like bodies—all elements reminiscent of classic silhouettes that evoke Gilded Glamor.

Images courtesy of fashionscene.nt

Christopher John Rogers is one of the youngest American fashion designers to incorporate a Gilded Age aesthetic into his collection. For his pre-fall 2022 collection, Rogers looks to his southern roots for inspiration married with classic American silhouettes. In this collection you will find some very structured bodices and well as gowns with trains, two silhouettes that evidence Gilded Age influences. All these influences are bedfellows to Rogers continued fascination with bold color.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

This roundup would not be complete without Christian Siriano. Since his burst on the fashion scene over a decade ago, Siriano has been one of the go-to designers that understands how to combine classic silhouettes with modern-day gilded glamor.

For his fall 2022 collection, Siriano looked to a ‘Matrix’ reality, where some days we are living in the Victorian Era and other days we are living in more recent times. This point of view is made evident in several garments that reflect a Victorian or Gilded Age design aesthetic.

There are looks in this collection that utilize Victorian corsetry, full skirts, and emboldened oversized sleeves. All these elements reflect looks you would find during the Gilded Age. Though Siriano’s collection was more gothic and darker than looks from the Gilded Age, there is a definite nod in this collection to a Victorian/Gilded Age point of view.

William S. Gooch

Gilded Glamor: Understanding 2022’s Met Gala Theme

April 29, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of Instagram

For the first time, the Metropolitan Museum of Art will link two exhibitions for the Met Gala. The first exhibition, entitled In America: An Anthology of Fashion, was presented last September, while the second exhibition will be presented in May. The Met Gala will be held in New York City on May 2 and will be the hottest party of the year, bringing out lavishly dressed celebrities to the Met Gala showcasing this year’s theme, “Gilded Glamor.” The theme reflects New York City’s Gilded Age spanning 1870 to 1890.

Image courtesy of HBO

“Gilded Glamor” is a particularly exciting theme given the recent intense popularity of period dramas like “Bridgerton” and “The Gilded Age.” Entertainment media heavily influences American culture while fashion is symbolic of it (American culture), so this relationship is one to highlight. According to Andrew Bolton, Head Curator of the Met Costume Exhibit, “All of the rooms are connected by these curatorial threads, but they’re also connected through this cinematic lens. Every director has put their own imprimatur on each of them.”

The gala’s accompanying exhibit pairs nine film directors with period rooms that explore fashion’s role in shaping American identity. It is very likely that designers dressing celebrities for the Met Gala will also pull from cinema and television.

Image courtesy of HBO

HBO’s “The Gilded Age” is one example of popular media that designers might pull from, as it was highly revered for its designs by costume designer Kasia Walicka-Maimone. In the series, fashion reflected American cultural values relative to “new money” and “old money” in New York City. In an interview with Women’s Wear Daily, Walicka-Maimone explains distinctions between characters stating, “Russell’s costumes were a stark contrast to the central “old money” characters of Agnes and Ada, who both stick with monochromatic jewel tones, with the former regularly wearing shades of purple and blue while the latter wears gold, orange, and red.” The use of color is one of the most important elements of the Gilded Age, as the period marked the start of synthetic dye use. Walicka-Maimone also says that for all the characters, “The silhouette is the same—nobody would dare break the silhouette.” Walicka-Maimone also emphasizes the heavy adornments worn by women during the Gilded Age and the subtle and not-so-subtle ways women from different social classes differentiated themselves.

Walicka-Maimone alludes to three essential elements of women’s Gilded Age fashion: synthetically dyed fabrics, a restrictive silhouette rule, and heavy ornamentation. If designers and celebrities have done their research, Fashion Reverie expects most fashion pieces to show a modern interpretation of these elements. According to Lydia Strickling in her article “Gilded Age Fashion,” for NPS (National Park Service), “Clothing was often vibrantly colored, thanks to the increased use of synthetic dyes, which were still a fairly new innovation. Women’s clothing featured multiple colors in the same outfit, something that was uncommon prior to this decade. It was fashionable to layer vibrant colors on top of dark ones. A popular combination was plum and navy blue.” Fashion Reverie expects celebrities to emphasize the Gilded Age’s rich color palette, with the best-dressed celebrities wearing multicolored pieces.

Image courtesy of The Antique Jewellery Company

Strickling also writes, “Around 1876, the “princess line” style became popular. This encompassed bodices and corsets with vertical seams rather than horizontal ones, which tightly hugged the body of the wearer. Long sleeves and high necklines were also features of this style, which was named for the Alexandra, the Princess of Wales.” For women, the silhouette during the Gilded Age was highly restrictive at the waist, voluminous at the back, and featured an excess of layers.

Men’s clothing, according to FIT’s 1880-1889 Fashion History Timeline “was marked by a long, slender frame. Suits were cut closer to the body, creating a tall, slim line. The frock coat, featuring a waist seam with a full skirt, remained the most formal daywear in town. Sportswear [also] played a special role in menswear. The blazer, a single-breasted lounge jacket, often made in brightly colored stripes, was usually paired with light-colored flannel trousers ….” At the Met Gala, Fashion Reverie expects gender fluidity to reign supreme, with some men wearing voluminous gowns and some women wearing bright sportswear. Either way, simple black dresses, and black ties should seldom grace the carpeted steps.

Images courtesy of Instagram

Fashion Reverie expects one of the most exciting elements of this year’s gala to be a plethora of intricate hairstyles and headpieces. FIT’s Fashion History Timeline notes, “hats were worn directly on top of the head, and they grew greatly in height becoming tall and narrow, eventually rising to such heights they were mocked as “Four Stories and a Basement.” We expect nothing less than four stories and a basement at the gala!

From head to toe, Fashion Reverie also expects extensive use of trims from ribbons, ruffles, bows, and lace. In terms of designers celebrities might wear, American designers might be most appropriate given the theme; however, fashion during the Gilded Age was heavily influenced by European fashion from designers like Charles Frederick Worth, so foreign designs are also expected.

Image courtesy of Christopher John Rogers

We predict many to wear Christopher John Rogers, an American designer, and Maison Valentino by Pierpaolo Piccioli due to both designers’ focus on highly saturated fabrics and intricate silhouettes. Both brands have featured large colorful feathered hats in recent collections, on theme with “Gilded Glamor.”

This year’s Met Gala has the potential to be the best one yet with its focus on decoration and excess, so it will undoubtedly be exciting to see how celebrities and designers interpret the theme on May 2, right before the exhibition opens on May 7! The Met Gala will be live-streamed courtesy of Vogue starting at 6 p.m. EST. Stay tuned!

—Tessa Swantek

Fashion Stylist Gemma Sheppard’s 2022 Coachella Diary

April 26, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of Instagram/Calder Wilson

When you see the sight of the world’s largest transportable Ferris wheel, you know there’s only one festival that you could be at—Coachella, baby! Having not opened its doors since 2019 due to the pandemic, Coachella threw them open this year with gusto, and the twice-postponed festival came back with a bang. While Coachella is primarily a music festival (with every genre of music you could imagine), as a stylist, the incredible, eclectic fashion vibe that perpetually surrounds me at the Empire Polo Club in Indio, California, is undoubtedly a huge draw. From boho to designer, anything goes at Coachella. It’s the one festival where everyone feels at home in their skin, whether they’re sharing a love of dressing up or down.

Image courtesy of @sincerelyjules

Before any holiday or event, I plan my outfits meticulously to ensure I never forget anything. Preparing for Coachella is essential because temperatures during the day are hot, hot, hot, but at night they seriously dip, so you have to arrive prepared. As fabulous as swimsuits covered by a lace kimono look in the mid-afternoon sun, leather jackets and ponchos are a Coachella fashion essential to stave off the chill factor at night.

Footwear also needs serious consideration because of the amount of walking and dancing you do, mostly on grass. I took two pairs of cowboy boots—one worn-in pair in buttery-soft leather and another, which I feared would hurt after a few hours, so I stuck with my old faithfuls all weekend! The festival has a marvelous laid-back vibe—even security is always ready with a smile and hello, which is helped by the Californian desert climate and the welcoming atmosphere. The location is spotlessly clean, which means it’s a safe landscape for showing off the very best contents of your wardrobe.

Image courtesy of Gemma Sheppard

And boy, did I see some incredible style. I saw so many trends that are bound to roll over into other festivals this year. First, lace was so popular! Bikinis teamed with gorgeous lace kimonos and dresses created the ultimate boho-type feel and covered up modestly while letting the breeze in. Genius! Also, Gen Z is bringing the look of the 90s back hard! Cropped tops with baggy low-slung jeans or sweatpants were de rigueur and looked incredible. Think Spice Girls 90s-style, and you’re there! And neon—I spotted this other 90s trend everywhere. Tiny bright, cycle shorts were worn with jeweled bralettes to ensure it wasn’t just the sun that was shining!

Oversized fashion was also popular! Some predicted that Coachella, being run by Gen Z, would mimic fashion that we see in popular shows like “Euphoria,” and I saw a little bit of that with the popularity of oversized cargo pants, buffalo trainers, and parachute trousers with oversized parkas, cropped tees, and bucket hats. In contrast, many festival-goers also wore glamorous dresses. I love the combination of dressing high glam with high casual at Coachella. I witnessed some fabulous long chainmail maxi dresses dressed down with flip flops or cowboy boots, giving that effortless vibe to a very thought-out outfit.

Image courtesy of @nancytyrealestate/Instagram

It’s not just outfits that festival-goers put a lot of thought into; at Coachella, hair is taken to a different level with the help of stunning accessories. There are lots of stations where you can get your hair done, and along with the usual plaits and cutesy hippie styles, jewels are added with butterflies, flowers, and all sorts of other hair decorations to finish off any outfit. I felt the festival this year had a salute towards the fashions often seen at Burning Man; a little bit edgier than in previous years, a little bit more futuristic, but still wonderfully eclectic.

Another of my favorite pastimes at Coachella is celeb-spotting. You never know who you might pass while meandering between the stages. Paris Hilton always dresses to impress, and her looks almost had an avatar-type feel to them. Former Pussycat Doll star Ashley Roberts looked gorgeous (as always) wearing an incredible green, tasseled leather jacket I adored! Julie Sariñana, aka Sincerely Jules, looked stunning (and uber on-trend) in bright colors and prints.

Image courtesy of Gemma Sheppard

My time at Coachella was nothing short of fabulous! I went with girlfriends who I hadn’t caught up with in such a long time, and we tagged on a couple of days at the end to relax, which I highly recommend after seeing and doing so much at the festival. (FYI, the art displays which are dotted all around are incredible to look at.) Good music, good vibes, good food, good weather, and the most magical time spent with good friends. What more could anyone want?!

—Gemma Sheppard

Follow Gemma @sheppardstyle

ChocAllure: Fashionable Luxury Chocolates that Have Mass Market Appeal

April 20, 2022 by admin 1 Comment

Image courtesy of Adriana Kopinja

Though the COVID-19 pandemic has caused so many disruptions, there are some good things that have come out of this health pandemic. One of the many good things that has come out of this global disruptor is a re-examination of what is important.

With all the hustle and bustle of our daily lives it is so easy to push our dreams and aspirations to the bottom of our to-do list. COVID has caused us to pause and reconsider those dreams and desires. And this reflection has caused some folks to throw caution to the wind and embark on a new adventure and/or new career path.

Image courtesy of bostonglobe.com

Liron Pergament-Gal has taken on such an adventure. “Chocolate making has always been a passion on mine. When I finished my undergraduate degree, I needed to do something creative for my soul, so I attended pastry and chocolate school in France. While working in cyber security as an executive, my French pastry and dessert skills was always a hobby for me. When the COVID-19 crisis happened, I wasn’t traveling for work as much and with all the extra time at home I started making more chocolates for friends and family. I decided to start a business to cover the costs of making chocolates for family and friends,” explained Liron Pergament-Gal.

And so, the story goes, and ChocAllure was borne. “At the end of 2020, I was still working full time in cyber security; however, my chocolate business had grown substantially. I was working so many hours between both jobs,and did not any time for myself and was not spending enough time with my family. So, in 2021 I quit my job in cyber security and dedicated myself to growing ChocAllure, explains Pergament-Gal.

Image courtesy of Adriana Kopinja

Liron loves all things chocolate and luxury chocolates is a special passion of hers. It was only natural and felt so organic to Liron to create a luxury chocolate company. “Ever since I attended pastry school, I developed an intense love of luxury chocolate and I realized as I started to make chocolate bonbons that there was a real gap in the luxury chocolate business for bonbons that look as pretty as the bonbons taste. Most companies use the same old moldings for their bonbons. When I started selling my chocolates, people really appreciated the artistry of my bonbons as much as the delicious fillings I put in the bonbons.”

ChocAllure bonbons come in more than the typical bonbon shape. They are exquisitely designed with great craftmanship. In fact, some are even look like they are from another planet, in other words, futuristic. “As far as design, ChocAllure bonbons are as far away from typical French pastries as you can think of. I partnered with Louis Amado, who is very well known in the chocolate world for his artistry for pastry and chocolate making. He makes stunning chocolates and I trained with him. Eventually, we started working together, coming up with bonbon designs that are scalable and would appeal to a mass market … There are some funny tools that I use in my designs, for instance, I used four different kinds of Q-tips, and I spray though piping tools. I also have tools that come out of my kid’s craft boxes.”

Image courtesy of Adriana Kopinja

ChocAllure bonbons have multiple layers and textures. Some are even seasonal. “I use different seasonal ingredients and find different spices that match the seasons or special occasions. For winter I have a gingerbread spice bonbon and a raspberry mint bonbon. We also have created different bonbon collections that match various holidays. For Easter, we created bonbons that are painted as baby chicks and they are filled with hazelnut, a creamy ganache, and a crunchy cookie layer.”

ChocAllure’s top sellers are their chocolate cheesecake bonbon, jumbo bonbon tea and biscuit cups, and jumbo latte coffee bonbon cups. ChocAllure price points range for $9 individual bonbons to $48 Mother’s Day Afternoon Tea sets to $69 Chocolate-of-the-Month gift boxes.

William S. Gooch

McKenzi Taylor of Electric Sugar Elopements on Unconventional Bridal Fashion

April 9, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

New York International Bridal Fashion Week, from April 6-8, signaled a shift in the bridal fashion industry. It was difficult to find a single collection without at least one unconventional look, whether a non-white wedding dress, a pantsuit or jumpsuit, or a cocktail-length dress with a campy veil. While traditionalism is still very important in the bridal fashion industry, many recognize a growing market for those who want an unconventional wedding day in an off-beat location filled with dresses of every color from black and burgundy to peach and orange. The unconventional wedding is often hyper-personalized, so a couple can share their unique aesthetic that isn’t influenced by traditional wedding day rules or faux pas. In many ways, this wedding style puts less pressure on the couple and adds more fun to the wedding planning journey so the two can feel their happiest and most comfortable.

To gain more insight into unconventional bridal fashion, Fashion Reverie has teamed up with McKenzi Taylor, a renowned elopement and micro-weddings expert who founded Electric Sugar Elopements (ESE), an unconventional wedding planning business. Electric Sugar Elopements is for the alternative couple who “give tradition the ring finger.” After organizing her own Las Vegas elopement, McKenzi Taylor became passionate about alternative elopements and micro-weddings. Coupled with her experience as a wedding photographer, she turned her passion into a business for wedding couples who rebel against traditionalism. In this interview, she offers insight into the top trends in the unconventional wedding scene, which Fashion Reverie also detailed in our “Editor’s Picks: Unconventional Bridal Fashion Representative of the Changing Industry.” Please read below for the entire conversation with McKenzi Taylor!

Image courtesy of Cactus Collective

Fashion Reverie: First, can you tell us about your start as a professional wedding photographer and your decision to create Electric Sugar Elopements?

McKenzi Taylor: After seeing […] more and more couples […] seeking to express their identity through special touches they’d bring to their traditional wedding […], ESE was born as a safe space for contemporary and alternative couples to express their […] ideas a bit more loudly. Our staff and crew encourage off-beat venues and design elements, badass backdrops, and unconventional photoshoots on the wedding day.

FR: I’m sure you’ve witnessed quite a few black wedding dresses in your business, and there is a major trend that emphasizes non-white dresses. Is this something you’ve noticed, and why do you think people are straying from the traditional white dress?

McKenzi Taylor: In the age of better body awareness and less stringent social norms, we see a rising percentage of women less concerned with the classic white dress and more concerned with size inclusion, design functionality, and a flattering color for their skin tone. The goal these days is to feel amazing, and that can be in whatever style and colors a couple feels best represents them. We have had brides with black leotards paired with tulle skirts, silver sequined cocktail dresses, mint green mid-length dresses with poms-poms, black dresses, burgundy dresses, and even a vintage Hawaiian dress with orange and green florals. Just about anything goes!

FR: Along with the stray from white dresses, I think the awareness of gender identity and fluidity has changed wedding fashion. I’ve noticed many swapping dresses for pants and two-piece sets representing the wearer’s style. Have you noticed this? In your experience, have weddings and wedding fashion become more about personalization and unique identity?

McKenzi Taylor: Yes, we do have a lot of same-sex brides getting married […], and typically one will wear a pantsuit or jumpsuit, while the other bride will opt for a traditional wedding dress. [Recently] we [worked with] a bride with such a cool, unique style that not many could pull off. She wore a bodysuit with oversized ruffles and a mustard-colored skirt. Normally you wouldn’t choose that for a wedding look, but the fit, colors, design, and overall style fit her energy to a tee, and it just worked. More and more brides are opting to express their own unique style [instead of] following wedding attire “rules.”

FR: On a similar note, short wedding dresses are becoming popular. What wedding fashion silhouettes do you tend to notice among your clients?

McKenzi Taylor: We see our clients in a lot of body-hugging/fitted silhouettes […]. […] Because of the nature of our style of weddings, we are not going to see many mermaid, princess, or ball gown silhouettes. Most of our weddings are in outdoor natural locations or nonconventional indoor spaces, and the attire reflects that. An overwhelming [number] of our brides are […] opting for comfort over restrictive silhouettes. Bridal veils are also very common among our brides; at least 75% wear some type of veil. […]. Most of our brides are shunning tradition with their dresses but maintaining that elegant touch with their choice of veil. Some of the veils we are seeing are ironic and cheeky, some are chic, and some bring a softness to a bride’s total look.

Images courtesy of Electric Sugar Elopements

FR: In my opinion, weddings in some ways have become less formal in terms of being more playful and fun. Some are even campy occasionally. Have you experienced weddings like that?

McKenzi Taylor: [That’s] all we do [at] Electric Sugar Elopements! The David Bowie wedding, we just did, is the quintessential wedding for ESE couples. […] The bride wore a disco ball-themed silver sequined dress […] complete with the bride’s rock n’ roll-themed (yet subtle) makeup. It was the right amount of camp, edge, laughter, and silliness, but with notes of romance […]. It was a memorable day.

FR: As you mentioned, venues also really influence bridal fashion, and over the past few years, couples have been getting more creative with where they are having their wedding. What kinds of unconventional venues have you noticed when working with your clients?

McKenzi Taylor: Unconventional venues are [our] specialty, [which is] why couples seek us out. We’ve had couples get married in a transformed alley, an abandoned building, a mock BDSM themed room, a neon museum, private residences, [and] outdoor locations like canyons, hillsides, and nature preserves. Anything can be turned into a wedding venue with the [proper] lighting, décor, and accessories, and of course, in some cases, permits must be obtained.

—Tessa Swantek

New York International Bridal Fashion Week Spring 2023 Season: The Sketches

April 5, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of brides.com

Since the beginning of the COVID-19 pandemic, the day-to-day business of fashion has been on pause. In many ways, we have watched the disruption in slow motion. As fashion industry professionals, we are timidly unearthing ourselves from the emotional rubble and uneasiness felt across the fashion world. It’s a process, and it takes time to reorient to a “new normal.” Things have changed. They are changing daily and from moment to moment! We are witnessing a paradigm shift towards something new for an industry steeped in traditions and old ways of creating and doing business. That is what makes 2022 unique! The feeling that something new and different is in the air.

From a creative standpoint, fashion designers have been the first to start tapping into what’s next. That is what makes the resurgence of New York Bridal Fashion Week special at a time when people feel more confident saying, “I do!” What’s more, after several seasons of viewing clothes virtually, designers are choosing to welcome their colleagues back for in-person shows and appointments.

The collections for 2023 represent a fresh perspective and a new outlook that designers have spent months digesting and interpreting to create something special for a bride’s special day. A mixture of contemporary and traditional silhouettes that make a statement to amplify the excitement around the moment. Brides still looking should expect to see fresh new ideas that they haven’t seen with shapes that range from voluminous to sleek full of unexpected and inviting details.

As part of our coverage of New York International Bridal Fashion Week (NYIBFW), Fashion Reverie has rounded up an exclusive peek into the thoughts and ideas of some of our favorite designers who are on the cusp of what’s new and what’s next in bridal fashion. Stay tuned for more coverage and exclusive access to NYIBFW.

Image courtesy of Mira Zwillinger

Mira Zwillinger
Inspiration:

Unity enhances the potential of our strength, courage, and growth as individuals. Together we are better, and only together can we accomplish something with a lasting impact.

Our spring 2023 “Wonders” couture collection explores the importance of staying united amidst a newfound disconnect. We understand more than ever how valuable our relationships are both for inspiration, harmonious balance, and freedom. Throughout the 13-gown collection, delicate and intricate handcrafted florals are designed both as the main component of the gowns as well as abstract extensions beyond the gowns themselves. The ultra-fine elements move freely and effortlessly symbolically expressing how unity can uplift through strength, while the unique array of silhouettes create a dynamic expression of how much power and resilience togetherness can help us achieve. With unity, we can create wonders.

Image courtesy of Sheila Frank

Sheila Frank
Inspiration:

This season I explored Victorian menswear from pre-Victorian 1830s to late 1890s. Each look is designed with a garment in mind from the frock coat, waist coat, shirt variations to the cravat. Fabrics include matte and shiny satin, crepe, tulle, and beaded mesh. Gowns are adorned with bronze and gold buttons and styled with pressed flower pendant necklaces and belts. I explored the idea of vintage meets modern with clean lines and pleated fabrics that flatter the female form.

Image courtesy of Sophie Et Voila

Sophie Et Voilà
Inspiration:

This collection is not about drawing inspiration from his work, nor is it even about emulating his technique or his mastery. That would be, to say the least, an unforgivable boldness. I will not analyze his lines, patterns, or sketches. I am not trying to be someone I cannot. I do not want to frustrate myself by copying. To know myself as an impostor, incapable, a liar and, in other words, one more. But I want to think I learned. That I took from the master a way of thinking. This collection is about his philosophy, his way of believing in fashion. To know that each dress has a name. One and only one. To say no to what I do not believe in and to bet my life on what excites me. I represent a firm with values, with a way of doing, with principles. At Sophie Et Voilà we never wanted to be commercial. We never thought about being others. Being different was never our goal. Doing something different has been the consequence of opting for doing things our own way. In a world where adaptation is everything, being true to oneself is a luxury that very few can afford.

Image courtesy of THEIA

THEIA
Inspiration:

Our spring 2023 Bridal collection for THEIA continues to push boundaries, balancing angular and organic elements to create signature looks for today’s modern bride. The season’s design inspiration intersects with that of another artist, local photographer Eva Grall. Grall, along with our designers, are drawn to the “Mother of American Modernism,” Georgia O’Keeffe’s series of Irises as a nascent source of inspiration. Grall’s emotive, modern lens, thoughtful range of texture and value, and air of sensuality coincide with the core values of THEIA’s aesthetic. The simplicity of magnified petals and the soft tactile nature of Grall’s works are evident in the tucks, cowls, and folds of our crepe and satin gowns. Easy slip dress silhouettes, plunging V-necks, jubilant floral beading, and cheeky asymmetry can be found within the collection.

Image courtesy of Nadia Manjarrez

Nadia Manjarrez Studio Bridal
Inspiration:

“This season as I was planning my own wedding, I began to explore the significance and mystique surrounding wedding rituals. Mexican brides typically wear big ball gowns, which I gave a modern twist by adding removable puff sleeves and a detachable train. Dahlia, Mexico’s national flower, are also present in this collection as an ode to my own heritage,” Nadia explains.

In the Mexican tradition brides also wear a Mantilla Veil, a circular veil with a lace trim around the edge. Nadia integrated the drama of these conventional pieces into the collection, adding in tones of blue as a pop of color and a nod to the “something blue” tradition. While customs like having a bouquet or dawning a long cathedral veil inspired Nadia, she vowed to keep the collection versatile including these details as embroidery on recycled taffeta, 3D floral embroidered tulle and hand drawn crocheted laces. The brand’s ethos rests in modular pieces: Add-on capes, removable skirts, and detachable sleeves. Hand-made beading and threadwork features variations of the poppy flowers in last season’s collection, alongside new fabrications like flowing pleated tulle and double satin. This season is for the bride who wants the sentiment of heritage, but is a contemporary woman destined for progress.

Kristopher Hoyle

New York International Bridal Week Spring 2023 Season Pre-coverage

April 4, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of brownsbrides.com

New York International Bridal Week is almost here. And this Bridal Week promises to be a comeback week of sorts.

Because of the COVID-19 pandemic, Bridal Week like other fashion weeks has been under tremendous pressure. Gone were the runway shows and presentations that are the bread and butter, so to speak of fashion week. In place of live presentations, Bridal Week had to settle for digital presentations. Although these digital presentations were the only option during the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, they were a sad replacement for Bridal Week had come to be known for.

Unlike New York Fashion Week (NYFW), Bridal Week never succumbed to a massive media invasion of media outlets, celebrities, and social media influencers eager to garner as much press for themselves as possible. Bridal Week has always been about bridal collections, showcased for industry professionals minus the media circus that is so endemic to NYFW.

Because Bridal Week has been about the bridal product, digital fashion presentations harshly diminished the industry’s ability to conduct business as usual. Bridal editors and journalists, buyers, wedding planners, and bridal boutique owners need to witness the bridal collections up close and personal to satisfy the ever-changing palettes of bridal consumers. Unlike NYFW, which can create and entire media explosion about primping and posing for the camera, Bridal Week marches to a very different fashion drumbeat.

Image courtesy of brides.com

Though this season promises to be different than pre-COVID pandemic seasons, there will be a plethora of in-person appointments, presentations, and a few runway shows, thrown in for good measure, to go around. Bridal brands that are expected to present for the spring 2023 season—bridal collections are always shown a year in advance—include Reem Acra, THEIA, Ines di Santo, Sachin & Babi, Justin Alexander, Savannah Miller, Mark Ingram, Anne Barge, Amsale, Nadia Manjarrez, JLM Couture, and many others.

Fashion Reverie promises our readers that we will be front and center, bringing all the fashion news and dynamic bridal presentations of New York International Bridal Week spring 2023 season. Stay tuned!!

Staff

Back Out on the Town: Colorful Floral Fashions for Town and Country

March 31, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Images courtesy of Zara, Lily Pulitzer, and Valentino, respectively

As mask mandates lift, and the world continues to “normalize,” fashion lovers are eager to venture out and resume their lives where they left off pre-COVID-19 pandemic. Many have a big question: “What will I wear to go out?” Fashion designers such as Cynthia Rowley, Vivienne Tam, and Kevan Hall provided a resounding answer with what they showed in their spring 2022 collection offerings. Floral prints were the big trend for the season and are popping up at every price point. Not to mention that floral-inspired clothes work for many social occasions in both town and country. While our list includes pieces that span the gamut from custom to budget-conscious, all are remarkably versatile and easy to style for many occasions.

But first, a little background about the history of florals and fashion. The floral trend has long served as inspiration for fashion designers; it has been traced as far back as ancient Egypt. Florals later enjoyed popularity in China in the 12^th century and the early 18^th century during France’s Louis XIV’s reign showing up in daily court dress. Since then, floral prints have never gone away, waxing and waning in popularity. For 2022, designers have drawn inspiration from fifties’ A-line cocktail dresses, early sixties caftans, and denim “flower power” looks from the late sixties and seventies.

Images of Ann Masburn and Gucci courtesy of the respective brands

The reason for the explosion of floral prints on the runways for spring 2022 may be as simple as designers living in isolation at home for months, with many taking solace in nature. In the months that followed, nature-inspired prints began to make their way into collections in a significant way. Cheerful florals may also have been a reaction to the months of drab gray and black and beige sweatpants many wore for much of 2020 and 2021. The simple act of putting on a pretty dress or top is an instant mood lift and gets you excited about dressing up again.

Below are some winning floral looks to wear when you are having fun while in town and in the country:

Image courtesy of Alabama Chanin

TOWN & COUNTRY DRESSING

Large floral prints in black and white are elegant alternatives for those who like stripes. They look good in soft gauzy fabrics and a stiffer construction, as seen at Valentino’s spring 2022 couture showing; the navy and ecru fifties cocktail dress is elegant enough to wear to a wedding. These large prints also dress up even the simplest shirt dress, such as black and ecru ones from Zara and Alabama Chanin. The latter, a tiny sustainable fashion brand, became known for its break-out moment at New York Fashion Week in 2008 when Julie Gilhart, the fashion director of Barney’s New York, famously bought the entire collection for her store. Fans continue to appreciate Natalie “Alabama” Chanin’s Southern feminine sensibility and look to her for beautiful floral pieces to add to their wardrobes. The brand’s mission statement reads, “We are a leader in elevated craft due to a strong belief in tradition and dedication to locally sewn garments and goods—both hand and machine-sewn.”

Image courtesy of Amanda Uprichard

A key component in the new florals is sheer fabrications for an ultra-feminine look in both dresses and tops. Amanda Uprichard’s empire waist baby doll mini dress with a sheer overlay is the perfect transitional dress that works for everything from shopping trips in town to weekend brunch. Gucci’s ankle-length sheer black dress with hand-painted yellow and red flowers worn over a black bodysuit and shorts is a sexy choice for a night on the town.

Images courtesy of Cynthia Rowley

Mixing and matching florals is another trend that’s getting traction this season. Cynthia Rowley showed long-sleeved bodysuits that had attached micro shorts; they were shown on their own at the spring 2022 presentation as a daring option for a beach party. She also showed a demure version of the blue floral print—a smock waist dress worn with skinny yellow floral pants. The bodysuits can also be combined with the same floral pants for a visit to an art gallery and dinner with friends afterward.

British designer, Ann Mashburn, is making cotton track shorts from iconic Liberty London fabric available in over thirty different prints. The pretty shorts are just right for lazy weekend afternoons in the park or the beach.

Vivienne Tam spring 2022 images courtesy of Vivienne Tam

Vivienne Tam and Lilly Pulitzer offered up florals in energizing bubble gum shades. Tam went all-in with a unisex Nehru jacket, leggings, and hat. She also showed a denim dress with sleeves constructed in a brightly colored floral lace for those who want to dip their toe into the floral trend.

In the early sixties, Lilly Pulitzer became the queen of the floral dress when she launched her company while wearing a cheerful floral shift dress at an orange juice stand outside her Via Mizner estate in Palm Beach. Since then, generations of Lilly fans have continued to wear the company’s whimsical floral prints to pool parties, beach vacations, and host friend and family dinners. This season, the popular Malone Maxi Dress is updated with a high collar and tassel details in neon blue and green.

Image courtesy of Kevan Hall

Los Angeles designer Kevan Hall produced some gorgeous silk caftans as part of his new Luxe Leisure collection last spring that he continues to deliver due to popular demand. The floral-bird print kaftan says Hall, “Is a relaxed and chic nod to the seventies’ bohemian and celestial sky…Cool caftans evoke a hipster mood for at home lounging while a touch of embellishment makes them perfect for at home entertaining.”

Lastly, for those who embrace modest fashion, there are some fabulous, embroidered florals by Indonesian designer Jeny Tjahyawati. Her latest “Bunga Lopo” collection is based on the traditional Bugis flower, called “Bunga Lopo” which is indigenous to Sulawesi Indonesia. The pieces are made by weaving viscose organza and luxurious silk Mikado fabric to give the garments structure. Afterward, they are finished with machine embroidery. The traditional-looking outfit can easily be broken up and combined with Western pieces that give it an entirely different look and feel. The outfits are made to measure and take three weeks to create. To purchase, contact: modest@miamimodest.com.

Vivian Kelly

On Your Radar: Five Ukrainian Designers to Know and Support

March 29, 2022 by admin Leave a Comment

Image courtesy of euronews.com

Despite the tragedy and chaos that has ensued from Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, the Ukrainian people have come together in solidarity, fighting for their right to live free from oppression. As the war rages, businesses in every sector have been dramatically affected, including fashion and retail. People worldwide have been finding inventive ways to help support the Ukrainian people. If you’d like to get involved, you can show your support by donating to a trusted organization, joining a peaceful protest, boycotting Russian goods and services, and sharing fact-based information with family, friends, and social media followers to raise awareness and spotlight the ongoing tragedy in Ukraine.

As part of our commitment to supporting fashion and the Ukrainian people, Fashion Reverie is taking this moment to highlight designers that should be on your radar and encourage you to support Ukrainian makers and creators who depend on your patronage.

Images courtesy of BEZVA

BEZVA
The brainchild of Svetlana Bezva, her namesake label comprises subtle details that define her style of architectural minimalism. Widely considered one of the most consequential designers to come out of Ukraine, BEZVA’s contemporary appeal is in the details intermixing clean silhouettes with versatility; combine that with a pinch of attitude, and you have a collection that radiates quiet confidence—no introduction required. And BEZVA shows consistently at New York Fashion Week (NYFW). www.bevza.com

Images courtesy of PASKAL

PASKAL
Since its founding in 2013, Paskal has enjoyed a meteoric rise to brand name recognition among the fashionably chic and Hollywood glitterati—Peyton List, Bailee Madison, and Monica Belluci. Famous for its delicate silhouettes and innovative laser cutting to achieve expertly constructed garments, designer Julie Paskal’s collections are feminine with a poetic quality that has a sensitivity to design as romantic as it is whimsical. www.paskalclothes.com

Images courtesy of DZHUS

DZHUS
Launched in 2010 by designer and stylist Irina Dzhus, her eponymous label is conceptually alive with meanings and ideas shaping fashion’s future code. Architectural in nature with a hyper-modern flair, DZHUS is one of a few brands crafting what’s next in the fashion narrative. In addition to its innovative cut and industrial aesthetic, all DZHUS garments come ethically produced using cruelty-free materials. www.irinadzhus.com

Images courtesy of Lake Studio

Lake Studio
Known for their exclusive prints created in collaboration with contemporary artists, designers Anastasia Riabokon and Olesya Kononova’s brand, Lake Studios expertly merges modern appeal and sophistication for the worldly woman. In addition to their womenswear brand, Lake Studio creates fanciful art-inspired jewels made from a broad palette of materials like coral, cat’s eye, porcelain, and freshwater pearls. www.lakestudio.org

Images courtesy of Kachorovska

Alina Kachorovska
Kachorovska has been creating sumptuously comfortable shoes made to order for women worldwide for over a half-century. High-end by design without the upmarket price, Kachorovska has managed to strike a balance in a crowded market where luxury shoes can soar into the stratosphere. Aside from shoes, Kachorovska produces a full line of bags and expertly created garments that have an easiness to them characterized by their loose, comfortable fit. www.kachorovska.com

—Kristopher Johnson-Hoyle

Spring’s Fair “Cher” of Attention

March 22, 2022 by admin 1 Comment

Image courtesy of Getty Images

As flowers begin to bloom like the ruffled fabric of a tulle skirt and a warm breeze pulls at free-flowing hemlines, women transform their closets to mimic spring’s freshness and blossoming vitality. This spring, Fashion Reverie predicts that free-spirited, dopamine dressing will rise if trends around the globe during respective fashion weeks are any indication. Anna Laplaca and Yusra Siddiqui of WHO WHAT WEAR recently wrote an article titled “New York Has Spoken—These 8 Trends Will Be Everywhere in 2022.” In it, they write, “We’re talking about full-on fringe, sheer fabrics galore, and cutouts continuing on. It’s safe to say you should start getting excited about 2022 fashion.” Fashion brands have been siphoning rhinestones, fringe, geometric cutouts, body-hugging fits, and highly saturated patterns from 1970s Cher and funneling them through a modern lens.

Many of Cher’s iconic looks were designed by Bob Mackie, who was often referred to as the “sultan of sequins” or the “rajah of rhinestones.” Known for his stage gowns and costumes, Mackie designed for women who were not afraid to be seen, and his work shimmered in the eyes of those who watched the entertainer (Cher) he dressed. Fashion Reverie has curated a list of spring Cher-inspired pieces for the woman who, like Cher, isn’t afraid to be noticed!

Highly Saturated Prints and Statuesque Long Lines

In the 1970s, Cher was well-known for her statuesque figure defined by stage outfits with long lines and a body-contouring fit. In 2022, many fashion designers are creating gowns and dresses that use a woman’s body as a canvas and resemble soft oil pastel prints that hang in ornate golden frames on museum walls. Several brands’ collections are in this style, from Swiss brand Ottolinger to Casablanca based in Paris and New York-based brand Collina Strada.

Image courtesy of ssense.com

Ottolinger Multicolor Cheyenne Julien Mesh Dress $275

Designed by Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, who together won the 2022 LVMH Prize, the Swiss brand Ottolinger is well known for its deconstructive style that is avant-garde and fearless. For this particular piece, the designers collaborated with Cheyenne Julien, a New York City-based artist who paints colorful portraits of women with exaggerated expressions to depict disturbing emotions. This dress, featuring long ties, green trim, and colorful artwork, encapsulates this trend perfectly.

Image courtesy of Casa Blanca

Casablanca Paris La Course Ideale Halterneck Jumpsuit $940

Casablanca Paris’ pieces are designed by Charaf Tajer, whose French-Moroccan background informs many of his designs. His printed silk pieces are vivid and luxurious as they wrap the body lightly. Many of his designs are inspired by sports, especially racing and tennis. This jumpsuit was inspired by Formula 1 racing, “with cars racing away from a sun adorned with diamonds.” Flared legs evoke a modern 1970s style while the open back is reminiscent of many of Cher’s figure revealing looks. Fashion Reverie recommends brands STINE GOYA and House of Sunny for less expensive options!

Image courtesy of Collin Strada

Collina Strada Meadowland Princess Bodysuit Gown $2000

Collina Strada by Hillary Taymour is the definition of outlandish modern fashion. The brand’s website states, “the brand DNA is now firmly cemented in the ability to look inward even when we’re loud and expressive on the outside.” Collina Strada is known for fashion presentations that defy the status quo, much like Cher’s looks. Also known for sustainability, this look is made from rose sylk created from the natural waste of rose bushes and stems (perfect for spring!) With its slim fit, open keyhole back, watery oil pastel-esque print, and a long-lined skirt extending past the feet, this look is what we would imagine 1970s Cher to wear in today’s sustainable fashion context.

Cutouts and Rhinestones in Full Bloom

A design element that has been synonymous with Cher throughout several decades is geometric cutouts around her waist. For example, her 1986 Oscars dress designed by Bob Mackie featured triangular cutouts in sparkling black fabric with dangling rhinestones. In 2022, many brands are swapping geometric cutouts for romantic iconography in the shape of hearts, flowers, and butterflies. Maimounstore, AREA NYC, and ASOS are a few brands featuring high fashion cutouts.

Image courtesy of Kim for Maimoun

J.Kim for Maimounstore Gradient Petal Dress $473

J.Kim is a brand designed by Jenia Kim, who comes from a family of Korean emigrants from Uzbekistan. Her website states that her pieces “evolve the core elements of traditional Asian costume. Her recent obsession is Korean dress. Jenia is inspired by it and tries to represent it in a modern way.” This floral cutout dress comes from a collection that is “a story about a Korean woman from Uzbekistan forming her own visual language.” The floral cutouts are created from tie-dyed ties, a style known as Pop Fashion in the 1970s.

Image courtesy of AREA

AREA Embroidered Crystal Daisy Top $1580

AREA NYC is a brand named after the iconic 80s Manhattan nightclub, “known for its fusion of art and performance in conceptually-themed nights attracting an eclectic mix of uptown and downtown scenes along with international celebrities,” according to AREA’s website. This theme of performance and theatrics represents Cher’s style well since Bob Mackie designed for an audience.

AREA NYC is best known for rhinestones and intricate embellishments, a design element also synonymous with Cher’s looks. The Crystal Daisy Top, with its floral shape, open back, and crystal details, are perfect for a dramatic spring look!

Image courtesy of ASOS

ASOS DESIGN Butterfly Embellished Cami Scarf Top with Cut Outs $50

One of Cher’s most iconic looks was her 1974 Grammys “butterfly” look, featuring a white bandeau top with a blue and pink rhinestone butterfly fixed in the center, a matching butterfly hairpin and skirt, and a sheer white shawl. Even today, this look has inspired many entertainers, notably Dua Lipa, for the 2021 Grammys red carpet. Dua Lipa wore a blue and pink rhinestone sheer dress with a butterfly cutout on the bodice. For a less expensive alternative, ASOS DESIGN’s top mimics both Cher and Dua Lipa’s looks; but can be styled down with jeans for a spring 2022 look!

3D Textured Designs

As a performer, Cher wore looks that moved fluidly along with her, and many of her dresses were almost 3D, embellished with textured pieces like feathers, fringe, and fur. Feathers and sparkles danced in the air trailing behind Cher at every award show, performance, or TV taping. This highly textured trend has dominated runways worldwide, especially in the form of multi-color feathers flying on bright ensembles. Fancì Club and ANDREEVA are two luxury brands representative of this trend.

Image courtesy of Fanci Club

Fancì Club Glow Dress $360

FANCI CLUB is a Vietnamese brand designed by 22-year-old Duy Tran. In an interview with Vogue by Eni Subair, Tran says, “I’m trying to create a revolution with Fancì Club. I’d like to normalize showing taboo parts of the body, including—and not limited to—the buttocks. I hope my designs encourage people to love themselves.”

Many of his pieces are what he calls “naked dresses,” which are almost entirely sheer. Cher wore “naked dresses” very often, with her body only being covered by a few crystals and feathers. Similarly, several dresses from Tran’s “His Ring and Her Edge” collection feature sheer dresses with fur embellished keyhole openings on the back.

Image courtesy of Andreeva

ANDREEVA Green Multicolor Dress with Handmade Knit Details $420

ANDREEVA is a family fashion business run by mother and daughter Olga & Marina Andreeva from Ukraine. Fashion Reverie highly recommends monetarily supporting Ukrainian businesses right now, and ANDREEVA is our top choice!

ANDREEVA’s pieces feature hand-made knitwear embellished with feathers and fringe. The brand even has Anna Wintour’s stamp of approval as she visited the showroom and called ANDREEVA the most innovative emerging brand. If Cher’s fashion is anything, it’s innovative, so ANDREEVA is also Fashion Reverie’s choice for inimitable spring 2022 fashion!

Cher-Esque Accessories

Cher often let an outfit speak for itself—she rarely carried a purse and never let her footwear outshine her outfit. Fashion Reverie, however, has curated a list of a few Cher-esque accessories in case our readers would rather wear these trends in a more reserved way. Combining all elements of Cher’s style through a modern lens, Fashion Reverie has picked a sheer bag embellished with floral rhinestones, crystal cutout gloves, and 3D architectural heels.

Image courtesy of Cult Gaia

Cult Gaia Bloom Rhinestone Bag $598

If 1970s Cher were a bag, it would be a Cult Gai bag. Cult Gaia’s founder, Jasmin Larian, writes, “The cornerstone of Cult Gaia’s DNA has been forged with the ideal of creating Objets d’Art that make you look twice.” If anything, Cher’s presence certainly made people look twice. The bag’s dazzling rhinestone cording creates a floral weave attached to sheer vinyl, a design that is made to be admired. If you are not as willing to wear sheer rhinestone outfits, a sheer bag is a perfect buy!

Image courtesy of Poster Girl

POSTER GIRL Gracie Gloves $171

At the moment, POSTER GIRL is the IT brand, as seen on Kylie Jenner, Dua Lipa, Selena Gomez, Doja Cat, Rita Ora, and Winnie Harlow, to name a few. POSTER GIRL is most relevant in the pop culture space with its pieces made to be seen. Several pieces feature crystal heart embellishments, sheer fabrics, heart cutouts, and rhinestone-covered draped fabric. The brand’s Gracie Gloves offer these bold elements on a smaller scale, perfect for those who want to make a statement this spring through their accessories.

Image courtesy of Y/Project

Y/PROJECT Melissa Floral Point Mule Key Lime $222

Y/PROJECT’s recent footwear collaboration is sculptural and is described on their website as “profusely adorned and embellished.” Wearing this lime-hued crystal shoe is the perfect way to step into spring led by a floral pointed toe. The heel is 100% vegan, representing sustainability goals prevalent in the fashion industry for 2022 and beyond. The shoes can easily be dressed up or pared down, depending on how Cher-like our readers want to be!

—Tessa Swantek