Kevan Hall Spring 2022

No one could predict what New York Fashion Week (NYFW) spring 2022 season would look like. It certainly wasn’t going to be like previous seasons—and that includes the recent two digital seasons. One thing that was certain, NYFW spring 2022 season would be unlike anything we had previously experienced.

Many of the fashion guard did hold live shows, but some fashion designers continued to have digital presentations. Unfortunately, many of the designers/brands that held live shows presented their collections to a much-reduced audience and the atmosphere at many of these live shows had a cautionary feeling of uneasiness and sadness.

That said, there was one show that was a jubilant explosion of bold color and excitement with a nod to the tried and true. Kevan Hall’s spring 2021 runway show was that show, a show that projected toward the future, but stayed grounded in what still works.

Attended by many of the fashion industries’ hallowed, seasoned professionals, Hall gave viewers and will continue to bestow on his consumer base silhouettes and design aesthetic that will always be in fashion. Hall carefully eased consumers back into a world of sophisticated elegance and glamour, without forcing that consumer to consider design aesthetics that they not quite ready for. (Remember, we have been in a health pandemic lockdown for 18 months and glamour has not been a part of the conversation.)

Though there were no new revelations in Hall’s spring 2022 collection, new revelations and new perspectives were not needed. Hall ingeniously understood that his client is slowly getting ready to celebrate life again and going out on a night on the town does have its risks. So, that consumer, though slowly getting their groove back, is not quite ready to experiment with silhouettes and innovative design techniques that push the proverbial fashion envelope.

In this collection, Kevan Hall expertly satiated his consumer’s taste for simple elegance. Inspired by multicultural scene of 1930s Paris, Hall employed the realist painting style of Christian Berard. Berard was one Sergei Diaghilev’s coterie of young French  painters who designed and painted sets for Diaghilev’s famed Ballets Russes. Berard would later work as a fashion illustrator for Coco Chanel, Elsa Schiaparelli, and Nina Ricci. Berard’s painting style was particularly evident in the first five garments in this collection.

This successful return of Hall to NYFW week cannot go without acknowledging the incredible runway saunter of supermodel Coco Mitchell. Mitchell demonstrated with her glorious walk how a model should show off garments. Mitchell allowed the garment and the fabric of garment to dictate how she would move—something so few models now understand. And not only did Coco Mitchell’s very studied and educated walk demonstrate her understanding of movement, Mitchell also showed how a women of her ilk would walk in that garment; how that woman would enter the room, and how that woman would let her beauty shine through. Now, that is how you sell clothes!!

Images courtesy of VERY New York

Standout looks in the collection was Hall’s alabaster trompe L’oeil cardigan and pleated trouser, salmon painterly floral shirt with pleated trousers with brass signature belt, onyx ruched flounce dress with diamante white-collar necklace, and cerulean sequin cocktail bubble dress.

—William S. Gooch

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