New York Bridal Week Spring 2027 Season Pre-Coverage

Image courtesy of newyorktimes.com

It’s almost that time again; time for the cavalcade of exquisite white gowns in every form and silhouette. In guess you didn’t guess, New York Bridal Week (NYBW) is right around the corner. And this season’s NYBW promises to be one of the best in the history of NYBFW.

NYBFW has become of the premier events of the New York fashion season. And in some respect, NYBW is beginning to eclipse New York Fashion Week (NYFW).

One of the many things that stands out during NYBW is the plethora and intense variety of bridal silhouettes. From fit-to-flare gowns to mermaid gowns, and column gowns to princess gowns, there is something for everyone. Another difference from NYFW is the absence or almost absence of fashion influencers. The bridal market is not such an easy market that fits into influencers’ post that center around themselves and their lifestyle. 

Images courtesy of myredglasses.com

Fashion Reverie will be front and center, covering the huge swarth of bridal collections which includes some of our favorites—NARDOS, Ese Azenabor, Mark Ingram, Zwillinger, Justin Alexander, Watters, Viktor & and Rolf, and many others. New to Fashion Reverie this season are Renhue, Lihi Hod, Tanner Fletcher, Verdin, and Men’s Warehouse.

Stay tuned for all the coverage. You will be enchanted and amazed!! New York Bridal Week takes place on April 7 through April 10, 2026.

—William S. Gooch

The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly in Netflix’s “Reality Check: Inside America’s Next Top Model”

There

Image courtesy of Netflix

is so much that can be said about the competition reality show “America’s Next Top Model,” (ANTM) and much has been discussed in detail in the new Netflix documentary “Reality Check: Inside America’s Next Top Model.” Though some of the discussion in the highly rated documentary is negative.

Fashion Reverie has a special relationship with the hit television reality show because we know some of the judges from ANTM and have photographed several former contestants in editorial shoots. Though there has been a plethora of podcasts on the Netflix documentary, most of the podcasts are told from the perspective of lifestyle, pop culture, and entertainment experts, few from the perspective of fashion industry professionals.

Image courtesy of amazon.com

“America’s Next Model” premiered in 2003, and the reality competition show very quickly became a huge success, later becoming a global phenomenon in 180 countries with franchises in many countries, accumulating huge revenue from licensing deals. During the COVID-19 pandemic, with people experiencing limited in-person interactions, there was a lot of binge-watching of ANTM.

The re-examination of ANTM caused viewers to deeply question the relevancy and authenticity of ANTM. ANTM, in retrospect 20-plus years after its debut had some cultural, social, and racial challenges. Granted some of the standout problematic moments were created during a time where there was little focus on racial microaggressions, body shaming, and bullying, still, ANTM episodes remain problematic.

One of the most distressing and obvious elements of ANTM was the fact that ANTM was not an honest reflection of the fashion industry, but reality television.  And as entertaining as the show was, very few of the contestants on ANTM went on to become top models, as the name implies. Winnie Harlow is one of the most successful contestants from ANTM, continuing to be featured in fashion editorials, campaigns, and walking the runways of top fashion designers/brands. Other successful ANTM contestants have mostly found fame on television and in films, namely Yaya Dacosta, Eva Marcille, Saleisha Stowers, and Analeigh Tipton.

Image courtesy of charlesandhudson.com, reddit.com, and youtube.com, respectively

A former ANTM judge explained to Fashion Reverie that the reality show was about 15% to 20% fashion, the rest was entertaining television. And because ANTM was reality television, the fashion industry did not take the contestants seriously as fashion models. Model contestants had difficulty getting model management representation after ANTM.  Model Management agencies saw the ANTM contestants as reality television celebrities, not fashion models. (It was if the former contestants had a bright red ‘scarlet A’ around their necks.) To get work many former ANTM contestants had to change their names, hairstyles, and the color of their hair and get work in countries outside of the US.

Teyona Anderson, winner of Cycle 9, had to go to South Africa to get work. In a YouTube video, ANTM Cycle 6 runner up Joanie Dodds detailed her model journey after her appearance on ANTM. Strangely, she revealed that after Cycle 6 had taped, she was flown back to her hometown and was told not to take a regular job or go after modeling jobs until Cycle 6 premiered to protect any information that could come out about her particular cycle. She had to take an after-hours job cleaning offices until Cycle 6 premiered.

Dodds also detailed that after she moved to Los Angeles and signed with a major model management company, she was not able to secure any significant modeling work, only walking in Los Angeles Fashion Week for very little money ($200 a show) or no pay. Finally, she asked her agent to secure work for her in other countries. She began to book jobs in Hong Kong, where no one cared about her being a contestant on ANTM. Dodds made more money in Hong Kong in one month than she made in Los Angeles modeling, bartending, and in retail jobs.

In the Netflix documentary ANTM Cycle 6 winner Danielle Evans revealed that after her win she was unable to secure significant work in New York City. While living in the Ford Models’ house, every day she witnessed her fellow models going on go-sees, booking jobs, while the phone did not ring for her. A fellow housemate, top model Chanel Iman, finally asked her agent at Ford Models why Evans was not getting castings. Iman was informed that fashion designers/brands saw Evans as reality TV personality, not a fashion model. (Eventually, Evans did book jobs. Fashion Reverie saw her walking for Betsey Johnson during NYFW at Lincoln Center.) Still, Evans contends that Tyra Banks knew this was happening and did nothing to help former contestants with castings or bookings. In the documentary Evans feels her career was blighted by her association with ANTM. (Fashion Reverie discovered several years ago that a list was passed around in the fashion industry every ANTM cycle with the current ANTM contestants names and photos. Designers/brands were instructed not to hire ANTM contestants on the list.)

Remember, at that time in the early 2000s, until 10 years ago, reality television was seen as a last-ditch attempt to revive a lagging acting career or a desperate attempt to break into television and film, not a way to launch a career in fashion. ANTM Cycle 14 winner Krista White reveals that many of the former ANTM contestants worked very hard, pounding the pavement to achieve their goals with no assistance at all from Banks or the ANTM crew.

Image courtesy of buzzfeed.com

And then there is the controversy over the bizarre and insane photoshoots on ANTM. While some of the photoshoots were entertaining and thought-provoking, most of the images were unusable in a model’s portfolio. (Shooting models in couture gowns in a garbage dump. Really Tyra!!)

Your portfolio, or book as it is called in the fashion industry, is your selling ticket to major castings and bookings. Without a good portfolio your career goes nowhere, even if you are signed to a major model management agency. Post-ANTM models had to scuffle to get fashion photographers to shoot test shots for their books. These test shots came out of their own pockets, or the model management agency created the test shots for the models and billed them later with interest. Fashion photographers for test shoots can cost over $500 and that does not include make-up and hair.

Images courtesy of teenvogue.com, realitybitesgames.com, and pinterest.com, respectively

In the end some former contestants did have successful fashion careers, with most of that success happening abroad where casting directors and fashion brands did not view the models as only reality TV fodder. ANTM Cycle 10 plus-size model Whitney Thompson had a thriving modeling career in Europe and Asia, coming back to the States years after her ANTM win. ANTM Cycle 19 contestant Leila Goldkuhl found success mostly in Europe, walking for Alexander McQueen, Alexandre Vauthier, Alberta Ferretti, Balmain, Chanel, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, Elie Saab, Emanuel Ungaro, Emilio Pucci, Lanvin, Isabel Marant, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier, Giambattista Valli, Marc Jacobs, Moschino, Nina Ricci, Oscar de la Renta, Prada, Roberto Cavalli, Salvatore Ferragamo, Shiatzy Chen, Valentino, Vera Wang, Versace and Zuhair Murad. And ANTM Cycle 6 contestant Molly Sue Steenis-Gondi became a very established model in Europe and Asia with covers for Vogue Russia, Vogue Italia, Vogue Nippon, Madame Germany, Madame Figaro, and others.

So, now you may wonder what was good about ANTM? Well, it was very entertaining television, and the longevity and ratings proved that. Also, it did expose the public to some small aspects of the fashion industry, thus increasing the visibility of the fashion industry. Still, does the good outweigh the bad? Hmm, let the gods decide that!!

William S. Gooch

 

The 2026 Blue Jacket Fashion Show

Image courtesy of spotlighthamptons.com

Fashion and charity often go hand in hand. And scheduling a fashion charity event on the eve of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) fall 2026 season makes a lot of sense in that fashion industry professionals have not yet exhausted their bodies and brains hustling and bustling from show to show.

The Blue Jacket Fashion Show seeks to raise awareness and financial support for prostate cancer which adversely affects black men at a very high rate. The Blue Jacket Fashion Show is the brainchild of Frederick Anderson. And in this 10th year anniversary, Anderson received sponsorship from Johnson & Johnson with support from LISC and Man Cave Health. The Blue Jacket Fashion Show benefits Zero Prostate Cancer.  

Zero Prostate Cancer is on a mission to improve and save lives from prostate cancer through advocacy, awareness, education, and support. Zero Prostate Cancer is the nation’s #1 provider of prostate cancer resources and the voice of the prostate cancer community–advancing a future where detection is early, support is unwavering, and care is accessible to all.

Images courtesy of Getty Images

There were several sports figures, musical artists, actors, fashion luminaries, and a variety of celebrities that walked in this 10th anniversary show. Standouts were Rico Ross, Ty-Ron Mayes, Carson Kressley, Ja Rule, Chris Noth, and Mario Cantone.

Staff

Emerging Designer Spotlight: Heginz Janvier of Science Project Company

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is upon us, and with the release of the fashion calendar there are the usual household names like Michael Kors, Coach, and Tory Burch. But in addition to those familiar designers, there is also a slate of new and emerging talent making their mark at NYFW for the first time. Among them is Heginz Janvier of Science Project Company, a New York–based independent brand launching this season as part of New York Men’s Day.

The showcase for new and emerging designers occurs in two parts: a morning session and an afternoon session, each featuring several designers. This season, Science Project Company will present in the afternoon, marking another milestone for Janvier as he grows his design business and pursues his dreams as a fashion designer.

Science Project Company has been evolving since the global COVID-19 pandemic lockdown. Janvier, who originally came from a finance background and worked as an accountant, decided to try his hand at fashion design. The brand started as a side project before Janvier committed to it full time. Now in its sixth year, Janvier feels he’s finally seeing the results of his efforts.

“Showing at New York Fashion Week is an opportunity I’ve been working toward for some time,” Janvier said. “For the last year or two, I’ve been trying to figure out ways to get my foot in the door and show at New York Fashion Week. I’m very excited to participate in New York Men’s Day, and my team has been hard at work putting this together. We’re all super excited to participate in Fashion Week this season.”

When Janvier launched the brand, he was testing different designs and seeing what customers responded to. He began by creating small capsule collections, and just last year, he decided to take a seasonal approach to his collections. His upcoming NYFW presentation marks his second full-season collection.

Like many young brands, Janvier admits to facing the challenges common among emerging designers. Starting a business is never easy, but between unclear jobless claims and a tumultuous global financial system, young brands face an even steeper uphill battle.

“One of the biggest challenges young brands are facing is financial; starting a brand is not for the weak,” Janvier said. “Running a brand is not for the mentally weak. Between inflation and tariffs, there are big barriers to entry for emerging brands. When you don’t have the capital behind you, it can sometimes be demotivating, but it’s important to stay grounded and make smart financial decisions for your business. Science Project Company is completely self-funded by me, which motivates me because I’ve literally put my all into this. I’ve invested all my hard-earned money into it, and I need to see this through.”

One of Janvier’s hopes for his brand after showing at NYFW is that, in addition to further platforming the label, it will lead to a chain reaction—resulting in future invitations to show again and opportunities to position his brand alongside more established names on the calendar. Janvier’s upcoming collection also marks an entirely new era for the brand.

“This upcoming fall 2026 collection is vastly different from the first few things we’ve done as a brand,” Janvier said. “Last year, I took a step back from a lot of what the brand had done in the past and tried to reevaluate it from a higher level. I wanted to create pieces that were missing from the market—things my team and I actually wanted to wear.”

Janvier describes the upcoming New York Fashion Week collection as an expansion of the products Science Project Company released last year. He also attempted to create more styles than he has in the past in honor of his NYFW debut. He stressed that he didn’t go overboard, noting that as a smaller brand, he’s limited in how many looks he can realistically produce.

When it comes to his target customer, Janvier says his clothes are “for someone who is intentional about the way they dress. They might not be the life of the party, but they demand respect from a fashion perspective.”

Images courtesy of scienceprojectcompany.com

Preparing for NYFW has been a learning experience for Janvier, and he says he appreciates his team more than ever. Currently, the majority of production is done overseas in China, with additional manufacturing taking place in New York’s historic Garment District, as well as Brooklyn and Los Angeles. Janvier says if he could offer one piece of advice to emerging designers, it would be to start small.

“Instead of making big collections that can burn a hole in your pocket, start with small capsule collections, build your presence on social media, and allow your brand to develop naturally,” he said. “Don’t try to force a certain image or aesthetic. Your best work will come naturally.”

Science Project Company will show on February 11 from 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. as part of New York Men’s Day. The brand will be part of a quartet of designers presenting, including Wangda, Christopher Lowman, and Monday Blues Studio.

—Kristopher Fraser

 

 

New York Fashion Week Fall 2026 Preview

Image courtesy of fashionweekonline.com

New York Fashion Week (NYFW) fall 2026 is only a few days away. And this NYFW promises to be different. What hasn’t changed is not having a single venue where most of the fashion shows or presentations are housed.

Still, there is change afoot. And that change includes the realization that many alleged fashion influencers are only promoting themselves and their brand. That doesn’t mean that fashion designers/brands are moving completely away from fashion influencers. It does mean that designers/brand are using a lot more scrutiny, only connecting to influencers that are true fashion industry professionals.

Though Ralph Lauren announced a few seasons ago that influencers were no longer welcome at his shows/presentations. I believe this statement was taken out of context. There is a place for fashion influencers. They do add value to brands, but only if they are deeply embedded in the fashion industry.

For NYFW fall 2026 there are several well-known designers/brands that are not showing. This list includes Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Monse, Sally LaPointe, Ralph Lauren, Alexander Wang, Brandon Maxwell, and Jason Wu. This absence of key players is an indication of how NYFW has lost some of its prestige and glamor. The CFDA needs to come up with a strategy to circumvent the bleed of top fashion designers/brands from NYFW before NYFW goes the way of Los Angeles Fashion Week, a fashion week that no longer attracts any international or global brands.

Image courtesy of people.com

That said, there are fashion designers/brands that are debuting at the NYFW fall 2026 season, and this include but is not limited to 7 For All Mankind by creative director Nicola Brognano, Alix of Bohemia, Andrew Curwen, Caroline Zimbalist, Contessa Mills, MANY, TAABE DESIGNS, Cult Gaia, Hilá, J. Press, Jasper, Mel Usine, Menyelek, Ossou, Pipenco, Moshe Yossel, and Veejay Floresca. In addition to this influx of NYFW debuts, Public School returns to the NYFW calendar. Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne continue to helm Public School. And lastly, the Derek Lam Collection returns to NYFW. After Derek Lam left his eponymous brand in 2023, there was concern if the well-loved brand would continue. Robert Rodriquez has assumed the creative directorship of the Derek Lam Collection after dissolving his namesake brand in 2020.

Fashion Reverie will be primed and ready to bring our viewers all the happenings at NYFW.  NYFW takes place on February 11 through February 16. Stay tuned!!

William S. Gooch

2026 Winter Olympians with Style

As the 2026 Winter Olympics unfold in Milan-Cortina, it’s time to drop the image of sweaty athletes testing their strength and replace it with the polished looks many of the sports enthusiasts’ wear. The games don’t just showcase the world’s greatest athletes, though; there is plenty of that. Many Olympians also have an incredible and distinct style that is uniquely theirs. From fashion statements in figure skating to unique outfits outside of the games, here are 2026 Winter Olympians whose style we’re so excited to see.

Image courtesy of people.com

Lindsey Vonn

The American Ski legend is set to continue competing even on a torn ACL this coming season. But it isn’t her raw athleticism we’re paying attention to; it’s her signature style. From glamour campaigns in WWD and perfectly pressed suits off the slopes, Lindsey Vonn seamlessly blends high fashion with professionalism.

Vonn also has a fashion line V Capsule by Vonn. This collection is designed in Milan and made in Italy. The collection merges luxury craftsmanship with contemporary design, elevating mountain culture through motion.

Image courtesy of theguardian.com

Guillaume Cizeron

Ice dancers are often known for their fashion sense, and for this Frenchman, it’s no different. Cizeron continually innovates in his on-ice style, with each costume telling a story. His current partner is Laurence Beaudry. His technical dance with Beaudry is to Madonna’s “Vogue” and their costumes reflect that.

Amber Glenn

The standout American figure skater not only captivates audiences with her flawless movements and jaw-dropping techniques, but also with her detailed costume designs and intricate make-up that never seems to smudge.

Image courtesy of vogue.com

Chloe Kim

When it comes to this American snowboarder, the slopes truly become her runway. Her snowsuits might be simple, but her off-duty looks? A perfect blend of avant-garde details and casual chic style.

The two-time Olympic gold medalist in Olympic Snowboard has her own collection, the Chloe Kim Collection. The collection focuses on riders who demand performance with personality, every piece brings Chloe’s signature energy to the mountain. She has also been featured in Vogue in 3 fashion eras.

Image courtesy of midahitech.com

Paul Poirier

This Canadian ice dancer never fails to give Olympic audiences a stunning fashion performance (or performance in general). His on-ice outfits consistently blend elegance and creativity, and the glittering details make his performances as visually stunning as possible.

Team Mongolia

When it comes to Olympic fashion, we’d be remiss not to mention the Mongolian team. Outfitted with designs by Goyol Cashmere for both the ceremony and off-duty style, you can expect some stunning looks from every Olympian on this team. 

Image courtesy of Ralph Lauren

Team USA

For a classically American take on the Olympics, Team USA has partnered with Ralph Lauren and Nike to create uniforms that blend classic Americana with modern athletic aesthetics.

—Sydney Yeager

 

 

 

2026 Winter Olympics Opening Ceremonies Uniforms

While the Winter Olympics are a global spectacle for showcasing great athleticism and culture, they are also a secret worldwide fashion week where designers and brands create uniforms for the participating teams. When classic designers like Ralph Lauren and the late, great Giorgio Armani get involved in events like this, it’s not a moment you want to miss. Fashion Reverie is here to give an insight into some of the team’s opening ceremony uniforms and the craftsmanship and culture sewn into every fabric.

Image courtesy of vogue.com

USA [Ralph Lauren]

Reuniting with Ralph Lauren for the 10th time, this matchup has yet to disappoint and always brings out a new element that exudes the pride of the American dream. The Opening Ceremony collection features a winter-white wool toggle coat and an American flag intarsia sweater, while the Closing Ceremony collection embellishes a dégagé, color-blocked puffer jacket inspired by vintage ski racing.

Image courtesy of shop.lululemon.com

Canada [Lululemon]

Canada and Lululemon join forces to showcase winter sportswear in true Canadian fashion. Lululemon has set a new gold standard for Paralympic-inclusive design by blending magnetic zippers, Braille touchpoints, and seated-fit silhouettes. The collection was carefully crafted for high performance, thermoregulation, and Canadian pride, incorporating bold maple leaf motifs and functional elements like adaptive fits, insulated layering, and weather-resistant materials.

courtesy of francejeux.com

France [Le Coq Sportif]

Le Coq Sportif’s collection for Team France shows balance in pure, elegant French grace. The collection boasts a tailored silhouette in high-performance material inspired by the 1976 archives, beige duffle coats, safari puffers, and a topographic map take on the tricolor. With France’s rich history in polished styles and silhouettes, Le Coq Sportif’s special touch in light materials for high performance makes a perfect pair for a collection of this magnitude.

Image courtesy of eu.daleofnorway.com

Norway [Dale of Norway]

Staying true to its heritage, Dale of Norway outfitting Team Norway sounds like a match made in heaven. The 2026 “Cortina” sweater is a high-tech, stylish revamp of the 1956 collection, merging legacy Norwegian wool with a skin-soft merino interior. The designs take inspiration from Viking symbols of protection and resilience, but the silhouette is modernized for high-octane functionality. This collection represents and honors decades of craftsmanship and national pride, taking pride in the rich winter sports legacy Norway has achieved through materials that are as functional as they are symbolic of the country’s culture.

Image courtesy of milanocortina2026.coni.it

Italy [ARMANI]

One of the last collections designed by the late great Giorgio Armani, this year’s uniform embellishes the quiet luxury that’s been embedded in Armani’s signature since the start. A tribute to Giorgio Armani’s legacy, the 2026 uniform is milky white, textural, and quietly exquisite, from 3D “Italia” embroidery to technical down jackets and ski suits. Armani’s vision of harmony, purity, and respect for sport comes through in every piece.

Image courtesy of kyodonews.net

Japan [ASICS]

ASICS tells a visual story of determination and growth for Team Japan. The collection focuses on the “Ryusui” (flowing water) motif—a traditional Japanese pattern representing an athlete’s ability to navigate challenges with grace and steady forward movement. The collection also features a vibrant “Sunrise Red” gradient transitioning into light orange, capturing the energy of a new dawn while maintaining visual continuity with Japan’s recent global appearances. Beyond the style and fabrics, the collection represents a triumph of circular design by using recycled materials, minimizing environmental impact without compromising the high functionality required for any harsh winter sport or weather.

Image courtesy of courtesy of worldcurling.org

China [Li Ning]

Li Ning’s collection for Team China is a breath of fresh air.  The collections feature smooth, streamlined silhouettes that innovate motion with ease and comfort, made from high-level performance and outdoor-friendly materials. Inspired by Chinese art and tradition, the collection boasts vibrant colors and slight imprints that give the uniforms a striking visual identity while showcasing thermal tech and breathable garments for the athletes’ best performance. Mixing modernized innovation with China’s rich culture and legacy, this collection might take the top spot just like the players.

Image courtesy of mymodernmet.com

Mongolia [Goyol Cashmere]

Attracting the spotlight from the fashion world, Team Mongolia shows legacy through the seams thanks to the collection designed by Goyol cashmere. Using the country’s national colors as the foundation, the collection honors Mongolia’s nomadic roots and artistic customs by taking inspiration from The Deel and Soyombo symbolism to provide a vivid blend of Mongolian history and modernized tailoring.

Image courtesy of wwd.com

Brazil [Moncler]

What better brand could one choose for winter sports wear other than Moncler? Moncler takes a high-fashion approach for a high-performance collection, providing efficient mobility and luxury craftsmanship. The Moncler DNA courses through the simplistic ivory-white palette, with the Brazilian flag proudly displayed on the shoulder. With sleek silhouettes and high-performance engineering, Team Brazil will make all their years of hard work look effortless while in style.

Image courtesy of Instagram

Haiti [Stella Jean]

Most countries that are participating in the 2026 Winter Olympics are in colder climates. However, that is not always the case. Brazil and now Haiti are both participants in the 2026 Winter Olympics. Haitian Italian designer Stella Jean was inspired by from a painting of Independence leader Toussaint Louverture astride, featuring a red horse by Haitian artist Edouard Duval-Carrié. Before the Louverture astride painting, the outfits featured independence. However, the International Olympic Committee (IOC) ordered the removal of the image of Toussaint Louverture, citing the rules that barred political symbolism and political, religious, or racial propaganda at Olympic Games.

Jean appointed Italian artisans to paint over the image with the red horse. She also designed the women’s outfit, adding gold hoop earrings and a Haitian tignon, or turban. Haiti has two athletes competing in the 2026 Winter Olympics.

—Lauren Pierre-Louis

 

American Fashion Brands’ Downhill Slide

2025 was a very tough year for Capri Brands’ 3 heritage American labels:  Michael Kors, Kate Spade, and Jimmy Choo.  The damage wasn’t contained to these big names though; other big American brands have been on a steady downwards tumble for years.

Fashion Reverie takes you through the rise and fall of big American brands.

Image courtesy of rizzoliusa.com

The November 1973 Battle of Versailles legitimized American fashion houses to the French and to the rest of the fashion world. The event was instrumental in helping establish American designers. That November evening, it was as if a magic wand was waved that turned Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Bill Blass, and Anne Klein into internationally recognized names. They expanded beyond clothes to include accessories, home and fragrance. Several decades later, many of them had attained heritage brand status.

The bigger the better formula worked in the heyday of the big department stores that existed in the seventies, eighties and nineties. Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Lord & Taylor, and Macy’s all proudly carried American designers in a big way. If one department store didn’t carry that special designer piece, another did. The all-powerful department stores were the ideal place to incubate a brand such as Jessica Simpson’s, points out Teri Agins@teriagins, a long-time fashion industry journalist for the Wall Street Journal and author of “The End of Fashion” and “Highjacking the Runway.”  Macy’s launched the Jessica Simpson Collection in 2005 and in 2010 JSC hit $750,000 in revenues. This case study in Agins’ book demonstrates the muscle American department stores still had in the early 2000s.

Images courtesy of Getty Images/Jimmy Choo

American brands also found enthusiastic support from the glossy print publications. Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Glamour, and WWD, who chronicled the designers’ every public appearance. Michael Kors was a judge on fan favorite, “Project Runway” from 2004 to 2012, which positioned him to leverage his discount Michael Kors accessories to the masses. The hit TV show, “Sex and the City,” that ran from 1998 – 2004, was also instrumental in turning little-known luxury brands Jimmy Choo, Christian Louboutin, and Manolo Blahniks into household names. Consumer sales rocketed for the designer bags and shoes during the show’s 6-year run. Blahnik, Choo, and Louboutin became celebrities their customers spoke of by first name. Splashy advertising campaigns further pushed the messaging. Ads for luxury goods were seemingly everywhere, in the pages of the glossies, the Sunday New York Times, billboards, bus stops, TV, and radio.

Unfortunately, the new century ushered in a seismic shift brought about by a perfect storm of events. Customers increasingly embraced the convenience of online shopping especially following the COVID-19 pandemic. The great department store consolidation stripped the stores of glamour and relevance and by 2000, there were only 3 mega department store chains: Federated Department Stores, RH Macy’s, and the May Department Stores Company. In 2005, Federated bought the May Co., and in 2007 rebranded Hecht’s, Marshall Fields, and the other regionals into Macy’s. The rebranded stores that had been stripped of their unique regional character alienated loyal customers and foot traffic and sales declined.   Macy’s responded by downsizing from nearly 1,000 stores to under half that number post-pandemic. Retaildive.com estimates that by the end of this year there will be 350 Macy’s stores left standing.

Opening designer outlets may have seemed like the solution to dusty department stores and malls, but year-round low prices taught consumers to never pay full price.  By 2010, Capri’s sexy labels, Michael Kors, Kate Spade, and Jimmy Choo began to feel the pain of a massive cultural shift. Magazines were less important to fashion lovers, largely replaced by social media and influencers who appealed to younger generations, widening the generational gap. Big American brands that seemed too big to fail were floundering and Capri’s earnings fell nearly 40% from its 2020 numbers. This is in line with what Teri Agins estimates the 20-year lifespan of a good fashion brand. She opines, “personal taste is “a generational thing. Kids don’t want to wear what their parents wore, with a few exceptions like Ralph Lauren, that is cyclical.”

Image courtesy of diamondbanc.com

Teens and twenty somethings embraced a “normcore” dressing heavy on sneakers, sweatsuits and lounge wear, doing away with the need for logoed designer belts and shoulder bags. A high school student told fashionreverie.com she paid $37 for a pair of Alo yoga socks, “because they’re designer fashion.” She is saving up for a Lulu Lemon bag, not a Louis Vuitton. In a strange twist, normcore narrowed the generational gap as older generations also embraced H&M, GAP, and Uniqlo. Cost-effective direct to consumer campaigns of texts and specials bombard inboxes daily and span across all generations.

As for the way forward, there is a bright spot in the designer landscape—the model created by the big European fashion brands such as LVMH and Prada S.p.A.. While fragrance used to be their golden goose, in the past 5 years, lucrative licensing cosmetic collaborations with L’Oreal and Coty have been instrumental in sales for Dior, YSL, Gucci, Armani, Valentino, and Prada. Distribution across LVMH’s Sephora stores nationwide and luxury department store counters keeps these European brands on consumers’ radar. A $42 Dior Addict Lip balm is a splurge but an attainable one to those who want a luxe designer item. Versace may join the cosmetics party as Prada S.p.A bought it from Capri for $1.375 billion last month. Says Agins, “Versace still has some cachet; sex sells and that is part of their DNA. I think Versace has a good chance now that Prada owns it.”

—Vivian Kelly

 

Breaking Fashion News Alert: Valentino Garavani Transitions

Image courtesy of airbeam.it

Valentino Garavani, the founder and former creative director of Italian luxury brand Valentino, has passed away. The death was announced on Instagram by the Fondazione Valentino Garavani e Giancarlo Giammetti that “peacefully passed away today at his residence in Rome, surrounded by the love of his family,” as reported in fashionista.com.

Born in 1932 in Voghera, a town in the region of Lombardy, Valentino moved to Paris as a teenager to study fashion at Chambre Syndicale de Couture Parisienne. After his studies in Paris, Valentino worked as an apprentice with Jacques Dessès and later worked for five years at Guy LaRoche‘s atelier in Paris.

Image courtesy of glamobserver.com

In 1960 Valentino partnered with Italian architect Giancarlo Giammetti to start his eponymous brand, Valentino. His first collection contained the iconic red ‘Fiesta’ dress with every collection moving forward always including at least one red dress or gown, which came to be known as ‘Valentino Red.’

Valentino’s big break came in 1962 when his couture collection, shown in Florence, Italy, catapulted him to the top of Italian couturiers. Valentino won the Neiman Marcus Award in 1967 and designed Jackie Kennedy’s wedding gown to Aristotle Onassis that same year.

Image courtesy of Getty Images

The Valentino brand experienced a stratospheric rise in the 1970s as Valentino Garavani spent a lot of time in New York City, infusing his collections with American and New York City inspirations. In the 1980s Valentino expanded his empire, later selling his company to Holding di Partecipazioni Industriali, but he remained as creative director and designer until 2008, when he released his final ready-to-wear collection.

Valentino Garavani’s funeral will be held on Friday, Jan. 23 at the Basilica Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri, in Piazza della Repubblica 8 in Rome at 11 a.m.

—William S. Gooch

 

Fashion Industry Icons that Transitioned in 2025

As the turn of the new year has us reflect on the year we left behind, we also reflect on those we left behind. 2025 marked the loss of several extraordinary figures who left a lasting impact on the fashion industry. They shaped how we dress, how we see ourselves, and how we see the future. Join Fashion Reverie in taking a moment to remember these designers, artists, and visionaries.

Image courtesy of Tim Jenkins/Guy Marineau/WWD/Penske Media via Getty Images (Missoni)

Rosita Missoni

Rosita Missoni passed away on January 1. She was the Italian co-founder of Missoni, the label famous for its iconic retro chevron knitwear. She was 93.

Image courtesy of Perri Cutten

Perri Cutten

Perri Cutten launched her eponymous label in 1981 in Melbourne, Australia and went on to become an Australian fashion icon specializing in women’s tailoring. She passed on April 4 at the age of 73.

Image courtesy of Chantel Concel (Aurelio)

Aurelio Costarella

Another Australian designer, Aurelio Costarella whose demi-couture pieces were worn globally passed away on April 19 at age 60.

Image courtesy of Giorgio Armani

Giorgio Armani

The legendary Italian designer passed away in September at the age of 91. He leaves behind a legacy as one of the most timelessly elegant designers of our time.

Image courtesy of Paul Costelloe

Paul Costelloe

Irish designer and artist Paul Costelloe, founder of Paul Costelloe Collections and former designer to Princess Diana, died on November 21, at age 80.

Image courtesy of NYT (Pam Hogg)

Pam Hogg

Scottish designer, musician, and counter-culture icon known for her bold contributions to punk style, Pam Hogg, passed on November 26 at age 66.

Image courtesy of Saville Row Style (Antony)

Antony Price

Antony Price was an English fashion designer celebrated for his inventive suiting and collaborations with music and pop culture icons such as Duran Duran, David Bowie, and Roxy Music passed on December 16 at 80.

 

—Marley Gifford

 

Copyright © 2012-2025 | Fashion Reverie Publications, LLC - All Rights Reserved