Search Results for: ukrain

On Your Radar: Five Ukrainian Designers to Know and Support

Image courtesy of euronews.com

Despite the tragedy and chaos that has ensued from Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, the Ukrainian people have come together in solidarity, fighting for their right to live free from oppression. As the war rages, businesses in every sector have been dramatically affected, including fashion and retail. People worldwide have been finding inventive ways to help support the Ukrainian people. If you’d like to get involved, you can show your support by donating to a trusted organization, joining a peaceful protest, boycotting Russian goods and services, and sharing fact-based information with family, friends, and social media followers to raise awareness and spotlight the ongoing tragedy in Ukraine.

As part of our commitment to supporting fashion and the Ukrainian people, Fashion Reverie is taking this moment to highlight designers that should be on your radar and encourage you to support Ukrainian makers and creators who depend on your patronage.

Images courtesy of BEZVA

BEZVA
The brainchild of Svetlana Bezva, her namesake label comprises subtle details that define her style of architectural minimalism. Widely considered one of the most consequential designers to come out of Ukraine, BEZVA’s contemporary appeal is in the details intermixing clean silhouettes with versatility; combine that with a pinch of attitude, and you have a collection that radiates quiet confidence—no introduction required. And BEZVA shows consistently at New York Fashion Week (NYFW). www.bevza.com

Images courtesy of PASKAL

PASKAL
Since its founding in 2013, Paskal has enjoyed a meteoric rise to brand name recognition among the fashionably chic and Hollywood glitterati—Peyton List, Bailee Madison, and Monica Belluci. Famous for its delicate silhouettes and innovative laser cutting to achieve expertly constructed garments, designer Julie Paskal’s collections are feminine with a poetic quality that has a sensitivity to design as romantic as it is whimsical. www.paskalclothes.com

Images courtesy of DZHUS

DZHUS
Launched in 2010 by designer and stylist Irina Dzhus, her eponymous label is conceptually alive with meanings and ideas shaping fashion’s future code. Architectural in nature with a hyper-modern flair, DZHUS is one of a few brands crafting what’s next in the fashion narrative. In addition to its innovative cut and industrial aesthetic, all DZHUS garments come ethically produced using cruelty-free materials. www.irinadzhus.com

Images courtesy of Lake Studio

Lake Studio
Known for their exclusive prints created in collaboration with contemporary artists, designers Anastasia Riabokon and Olesya Kononova’s brand, Lake Studios expertly merges modern appeal and sophistication for the worldly woman. In addition to their womenswear brand, Lake Studio creates fanciful art-inspired jewels made from a broad palette of materials like coral, cat’s eye, porcelain, and freshwater pearls. www.lakestudio.org

Images courtesy of Kachorovska

Alina Kachorovska
Kachorovska has been creating sumptuously comfortable shoes made to order for women worldwide for over a half-century. High-end by design without the upmarket price, Kachorovska has managed to strike a balance in a crowded market where luxury shoes can soar into the stratosphere. Aside from shoes, Kachorovska produces a full line of bags and expertly created garments that have an easiness to them characterized by their loose, comfortable fit. www.kachorovska.com

—Kristopher Johnson-Hoyle

Feral Girls’ Summer 2022 Style

Image courtesy of Getty Images

Temperatures have warmed up and if you are feeling like you want to let it all hang out and just cut loose, you are not alone. This summer let your passion be your guide, leave no stone unturned and party like there is no tomorrow. In other words, summer 2022 will be a “Feral Girls’ Summer.”

Surprised? You may ask, “What is a feral girls’ summer?” This is a summer with very few COVID-19 restrictions. And with high cost of inflation, a raging war in Ukraine, and women’s reproductive rights under attack, why not use this summer to cut loose and paint the town red, green, magenta, or any color you want. In other words, Carpe Diem, seize the day because tomorrow is not promised.  That’s right, create a new wild girls’ summer, a feral girls’ summer.

Now, this feral (wild) girls’ summer is not going to work for you if you don’t have the right wardrobe. Remember feral girls’ summer is for the wild child that parties from Wednesday evening to late Sunday. She also doesn’t care about what folks say about her. And she also in not concerned if her clothing matches.

With all this information in mind, Fashion Reverie has a few tips about some garment choices that match the Feral Girl aesthetic.

Images courtesy of elle.com

Tees and Tanks

Wearing garments that can go with almost anything and that require very little maintenance is right on point with ‘Feral Girls’ Summer.’ Tanks and tee shirts really fit that bill. Nothing says summer freedom better than a summer tank top and/or tee shirt. And this summer you can bring a fashionable element to these very basic summer necessities.

Skims ($34) and WSLY Rivington ($68) has some great fitted tanks that are not only stylish and sophisticated but also produce a great fit. Add to that, Abercrombie & Fitch knotted tee shirt ($29), Beach Boys vintage-inspired tee ($175) and the affordable Reformation Alex Slim Tee ($24), and you are ready to party hardy at all the summer music festivals.

Images courtesy of cynthiarowley.com and cosmopolitan.com

Crop tops and bandeaus

What would a wild girls’ summer be without crop tops? Fashion Reverie has selected some great choices. From H&M’s sleeveless turtleneck crop top ($18) to Lulu’s green square-necked crop ($28) to Victor Glemaud’s Bustier crop ($195) ending with Cynthia Rowley’s black crystal-mesh bandeau top ($175), you cannot go wrong with these choices.

Images courtesy of popsugar.com

We love short shorts

With these incredible tops, some great shorts are a must have. Zara’s high-waisted shorts ($46) should definitely be in your wardrobe, as well as Farm Rio’s paper bag statement shorts ($120). Add to this mix, cut off vintage jean shorts from AGOLDE Parker and you all set for summer music festival season.

Images courtesy of cosmopolitan

Flirty Frocks

You not really consider a flirty dress as a must-have for feral girls of summer, but some those wild girls do like getting their summer bacchanal going in a flirty frock. Fashion Reverie’s choices for that feral girl that looks to be flirty and feminine is Berska’s reprint detail dress ($36), a surefire hit for summer music festivals. Another standout dress is Staud’s Edesia knit dress ($325). Bringing up the rear for those wild girls that want to add a bit of sophistication is Jonathan Simkai’s Christobel macrame dress ($795). Fringe rules the day in this summer wonder.

Images courtesy of nypost.com

The mini bag

Since you are traveling very light this summer, you may not need a big bag. That said, small doesn’t mean insignificant or inexpensive. You can still demonstrate your style with a small bag.

Consider Betsey Johnson’s bejeweled pizza slice crossbody handbag ($118) if you are not girl who wants to be noticed. Or if you want great summer style without the steep price, consider the Uerraum crossbody mini-stripped eco bag ($23). Lastly, Fashion Reverie chose the Ace limited edition mini handbag ($555) with a charming heart appliqué, pink and red color blocking and a cupid’s arrow.

William S. Gooch

Fashion News Alert: Condé Nast Unionizes, H&M Closes Stores, and Au Revoir Patrick DeMarchelier

Image courtesy of thetodayshow.com

H&M has announced that it will close 240 stores globally. This is a bit of a surprise because first quarter financials for the megastore, though below pre-COVID-19 levels, were substantial.

The store closures come on the heels of H&M opening 95 new stores. The new stores will be opened in what H&M calls “growth markets,” while the closures will be in established markets.

H&M has had to shutter 185 stores because of the Russia-Ukraine conflict. Russia was H&M’s sixth largest market, accounting for 4% of its sales.

Image courtesy of newyorkcenterallaroundcouncil.org

Workers unite!!

It has finally happened. Condé Nast’s employees have formed a union with NewsGuild. Nearly 500 employees from editorial, production, and video have asked that management recognize the union. That includes staff from Vanity Fair, Vogue, GQ, Bon Appétit, Glamour, Architectural Digest, and other Condé Nast brands.

The Condé Nast employees’ bargaining representative is from NewsGuild which also represents The New Yorker, Wired, Ars Technica, and Pitchfork. This would the biggest infusion of employees ever with the biggest new unit.

“The current workplace culture at Condé Nast allows many people of color and women to be consistently silenced by management. It’s no longer enough to play-act a commitment to diversity or apply [band-aid] solutions to issues of discrimination,” said Epicurious social media staffer Kaylee Hammonds in a statement, as reported in the Hollywood Reporter. “[We are] unionizing today across the company so that this hypocrisy that currently thrives at Condé Nast can be remedied.”

“Workers at Condé Nast have organized hundreds of their colleagues with one shared goal: to raise standards and fight for better working terms and conditions,” says Susan DeCarava, president of The NewsGuild of New York. “This is an opportunity for Condé Nast management to work more collaboratively with employees and be held accountable in addressing long-standing concerns about equity, inclusion, fairness, and diversity. I’m excited to welcome these workers into the Guild and proud to join them in their fight to improve their workplace.”

Image courtesy of yahoonews.com

Au revoir Patrick

If you have ever watched the film “The Devil Wears Prada,” you will probably remember that fictional editor-in-chief Miranda Priestly always asking for famed fashion photographer Patrick DeMarchelier. They had a fantastic congenial relationship in the film and in real life. Of course, in real time, Miranda Priestly was modeled after Anna Wintour.

That said, all good things must come to end. And the closure of those good times makes us very sad. The entire fashion industry mourns the death of famed fashion photographer Patrick DeMarchelier.

DeMarchelier moved to Paris from Le Havre at the age of 20 and worked as a photographer’s assistant before getting his big break at American Vogue, before moving to New York City. Demarchelier formed a long-time relationship with Vogue creative director Grace Coddington at both American and British Vogue. One of his most memorable photographs is the one taken of Linda Evangelista for the September 1992 issue Harper’s Bazaar.

DeMarchelier shot campaigns for ​Christian Dior, Ralph Lauren, Chanel, and Giorgio Armani, and personal photos of Princess Diana. DeMarchelier also photographed the Pirelli calendar in 2005, 2008 and 2014.

Patrick DeMarchelier is survived by his wife and three sons. DeMarchelier was 78 years old.

William S. Gooch

Spring’s Fair “Cher” of Attention

Image courtesy of Getty Images

As flowers begin to bloom like the ruffled fabric of a tulle skirt and a warm breeze pulls at free-flowing hemlines, women transform their closets to mimic spring’s freshness and blossoming vitality. This spring, Fashion Reverie predicts that free-spirited, dopamine dressing will rise if trends around the globe during respective fashion weeks are any indication. Anna Laplaca and Yusra Siddiqui of WHO WHAT WEAR recently wrote an article titled “New York Has Spoken—These 8 Trends Will Be Everywhere in 2022.” In it, they write, “We’re talking about full-on fringe, sheer fabrics galore, and cutouts continuing on. It’s safe to say you should start getting excited about 2022 fashion.” Fashion brands have been siphoning rhinestones, fringe, geometric cutouts, body-hugging fits, and highly saturated patterns from 1970s Cher and funneling them through a modern lens.

Many of Cher’s iconic looks were designed by Bob Mackie, who was often referred to as the “sultan of sequins” or the “rajah of rhinestones.” Known for his stage gowns and costumes, Mackie designed for women who were not afraid to be seen, and his work shimmered in the eyes of those who watched the entertainer (Cher) he dressed. Fashion Reverie has curated a list of spring Cher-inspired pieces for the woman who, like Cher, isn’t afraid to be noticed!

Highly Saturated Prints and Statuesque Long Lines

In the 1970s, Cher was well-known for her statuesque figure defined by stage outfits with long lines and a body-contouring fit. In 2022, many fashion designers are creating gowns and dresses that use a woman’s body as a canvas and resemble soft oil pastel prints that hang in ornate golden frames on museum walls. Several brands’ collections are in this style, from Swiss brand Ottolinger to Casablanca based in Paris and New York-based brand Collina Strada.

Image courtesy of ssense.com

Ottolinger Multicolor Cheyenne Julien Mesh Dress $275

Designed by Christa Bösch and Cosima Gadient, who together won the 2022 LVMH Prize, the Swiss brand Ottolinger is well known for its deconstructive style that is avant-garde and fearless. For this particular piece, the designers collaborated with Cheyenne Julien, a New York City-based artist who paints colorful portraits of women with exaggerated expressions to depict disturbing emotions. This dress, featuring long ties, green trim, and colorful artwork, encapsulates this trend perfectly.

Image courtesy of Casa Blanca

Casablanca Paris La Course Ideale Halterneck Jumpsuit $940

Casablanca Paris’ pieces are designed by Charaf Tajer, whose French-Moroccan background informs many of his designs. His printed silk pieces are vivid and luxurious as they wrap the body lightly. Many of his designs are inspired by sports, especially racing and tennis. This jumpsuit was inspired by Formula 1 racing, “with cars racing away from a sun adorned with diamonds.” Flared legs evoke a modern 1970s style while the open back is reminiscent of many of Cher’s figure revealing looks. Fashion Reverie recommends brands STINE GOYA and House of Sunny for less expensive options!

Image courtesy of Collin Strada

Collina Strada Meadowland Princess Bodysuit Gown $2000

Collina Strada by Hillary Taymour is the definition of outlandish modern fashion. The brand’s website states, “the brand DNA is now firmly cemented in the ability to look inward even when we’re loud and expressive on the outside.” Collina Strada is known for fashion presentations that defy the status quo, much like Cher’s looks. Also known for sustainability, this look is made from rose sylk created from the natural waste of rose bushes and stems (perfect for spring!) With its slim fit, open keyhole back, watery oil pastel-esque print, and a long-lined skirt extending past the feet, this look is what we would imagine 1970s Cher to wear in today’s sustainable fashion context.

Cutouts and Rhinestones in Full Bloom

A design element that has been synonymous with Cher throughout several decades is geometric cutouts around her waist. For example, her 1986 Oscars dress designed by Bob Mackie featured triangular cutouts in sparkling black fabric with dangling rhinestones. In 2022, many brands are swapping geometric cutouts for romantic iconography in the shape of hearts, flowers, and butterflies. Maimounstore, AREA NYC, and ASOS are a few brands featuring high fashion cutouts.

Image courtesy of Kim for Maimoun

J.Kim for Maimounstore Gradient Petal Dress $473

J.Kim is a brand designed by Jenia Kim, who comes from a family of Korean emigrants from Uzbekistan. Her website states that her pieces “evolve the core elements of traditional Asian costume. Her recent obsession is Korean dress. Jenia is inspired by it and tries to represent it in a modern way.” This floral cutout dress comes from a collection that is “a story about a Korean woman from Uzbekistan forming her own visual language.” The floral cutouts are created from tie-dyed ties, a style known as Pop Fashion in the 1970s.

Image courtesy of AREA

AREA Embroidered Crystal Daisy Top $1580

AREA NYC is a brand named after the iconic 80s Manhattan nightclub, “known for its fusion of art and performance in conceptually-themed nights attracting an eclectic mix of uptown and downtown scenes along with international celebrities,” according to AREA’s website. This theme of performance and theatrics represents Cher’s style well since Bob Mackie designed for an audience.

AREA NYC is best known for rhinestones and intricate embellishments, a design element also synonymous with Cher’s looks. The Crystal Daisy Top, with its floral shape, open back, and crystal details, are perfect for a dramatic spring look!

Image courtesy of ASOS

ASOS DESIGN Butterfly Embellished Cami Scarf Top with Cut Outs $50

One of Cher’s most iconic looks was her 1974 Grammys “butterfly” look, featuring a white bandeau top with a blue and pink rhinestone butterfly fixed in the center, a matching butterfly hairpin and skirt, and a sheer white shawl. Even today, this look has inspired many entertainers, notably Dua Lipa, for the 2021 Grammys red carpet. Dua Lipa wore a blue and pink rhinestone sheer dress with a butterfly cutout on the bodice. For a less expensive alternative, ASOS DESIGN’s top mimics both Cher and Dua Lipa’s looks; but can be styled down with jeans for a spring 2022 look!

3D Textured Designs

As a performer, Cher wore looks that moved fluidly along with her, and many of her dresses were almost 3D, embellished with textured pieces like feathers, fringe, and fur. Feathers and sparkles danced in the air trailing behind Cher at every award show, performance, or TV taping. This highly textured trend has dominated runways worldwide, especially in the form of multi-color feathers flying on bright ensembles. Fancì Club and ANDREEVA are two luxury brands representative of this trend.

Image courtesy of Fanci Club

Fancì Club Glow Dress $360

FANCI CLUB is a Vietnamese brand designed by 22-year-old Duy Tran. In an interview with Vogue by Eni Subair, Tran says, “I’m trying to create a revolution with Fancì Club. I’d like to normalize showing taboo parts of the body, including—and not limited to—the buttocks. I hope my designs encourage people to love themselves.”

 Many of his pieces are what he calls “naked dresses,” which are almost entirely sheer. Cher wore “naked dresses” very often, with her body only being covered by a few crystals and feathers. Similarly, several dresses from Tran’s “His Ring and Her Edge” collection feature sheer dresses with fur embellished keyhole openings on the back.

Image courtesy of Andreeva

ANDREEVA Green Multicolor Dress with Handmade Knit Details $420

ANDREEVA is a family fashion business run by mother and daughter Olga & Marina Andreeva from Ukraine. Fashion Reverie highly recommends monetarily supporting Ukrainian businesses right now, and ANDREEVA is our top choice!

ANDREEVA’s pieces feature hand-made knitwear embellished with feathers and fringe. The brand even has Anna Wintour’s stamp of approval as she visited the showroom and called ANDREEVA the most innovative emerging brand. If Cher’s fashion is anything, it’s innovative, so ANDREEVA is also Fashion Reverie’s choice for inimitable spring 2022 fashion!

Cher-Esque Accessories

Cher often let an outfit speak for itself—she rarely carried a purse and never let her footwear outshine her outfit. Fashion Reverie, however, has curated a list of a few Cher-esque accessories in case our readers would rather wear these trends in a more reserved way. Combining all elements of Cher’s style through a modern lens, Fashion Reverie has picked a sheer bag embellished with floral rhinestones, crystal cutout gloves, and 3D architectural heels.

Image courtesy of Cult Gaia

Cult Gaia Bloom Rhinestone Bag $598

If 1970s Cher were a bag, it would be a Cult Gai bag. Cult Gaia’s founder, Jasmin Larian, writes, “The cornerstone of Cult Gaia’s DNA has been forged with the ideal of creating Objets d’Art that make you look twice.” If anything, Cher’s presence certainly made people look twice. The bag’s dazzling rhinestone cording creates a floral weave attached to sheer vinyl, a design that is made to be admired. If you are not as willing to wear sheer rhinestone outfits, a sheer bag is a perfect buy!

Image courtesy of Poster Girl

POSTER GIRL Gracie Gloves $171

At the moment, POSTER GIRL is the IT brand, as seen on Kylie Jenner, Dua Lipa, Selena Gomez, Doja Cat, Rita Ora, and Winnie Harlow, to name a few. POSTER GIRL is most relevant in the pop culture space with its pieces made to be seen. Several pieces feature crystal heart embellishments, sheer fabrics, heart cutouts, and rhinestone-covered draped fabric. The brand’s Gracie Gloves offer these bold elements on a smaller scale, perfect for those who want to make a statement this spring through their accessories.

Image courtesy of Y/Project

Y/PROJECT Melissa Floral Point Mule Key Lime $222

Y/PROJECT’s recent footwear collaboration is sculptural and is described on their website as “profusely adorned and embellished.” Wearing this lime-hued crystal shoe is the perfect way to step into spring led by a floral pointed toe. The heel is 100% vegan, representing sustainability goals prevalent in the fashion industry for 2022 and beyond. The shoes can easily be dressed up or pared down, depending on how Cher-like our readers want to be!

—Tessa Swantek

“Fashion Reverie Talks”: Season 2, Episode 11

In episode 11 of “Fashion Reverie Talks,” cohosts Cicily Daniels and Tijana Ibrahimovic have a lively chat about Balmain creative director Olivier Rousteing’s new job with Jean-Paul Gaultier haute couture, and Heaven by Marc Jacob’s spring 2022 campaign. There is also conversation about US fashion and beauty brands that are closing stores in Russia or decreasing inventory due to the invasion in Ukraine. Cicily talks with Tijana about her article “Celebrities that Embrace Spring 2022 Fashion Trends.” Fashion Reverie editor-in-chief William S. Gooch has a very intriguing conversation with Tijana about the Fashion Metaverse.

Every week “Fashion Reverie Talks” brings its viewers all the current fashion news that everyone should be excited about. Additionally, each episode has wonderful guests that introduces our audience to new and exciting things currently happening in the fashion industry.

—Staff

Fashion News Alert: Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2022 Campaign, Olivier Rousteing’s New Gig, and Several Brands Close Shop in Russia

Image courtesy of hollywoodlife.com

You would think that Olivier Rousteing would have enough to do being the Creative Director of Balmain. Not so!!

Rousteing now has an additional job. Wagging fashion tongues were insinuating that former enfant terrible of the fashion industry, Jean-Paul Gaultier was looking for some top designers to design his couture collections. When Gaultier showed up at Balmain’s recent fashion show, wagging tongues believed that Rousteing would be the chosen designer. And they were right!!

Soon after, Gaultier’s fashion brand revealed that Rousteing will be a guest designer for Gaultier’s haute couture collection. Rousteing’s haute couture collection for Gaultier will be revealed in July 2022.

Jean-Paul Gaultier sold his fashion brand to the Spanish Puig Group in 2011 and stopped creating ready-to-wear collections in 2015. Since then, the brand has re-introduced ready to wear with a sailor-themed collection 2021 in collaboration with five emerging designers Ottolinger, Palomo Spain, Lecourt Mansion, Alan Crocetti, and Marvin M’Toumo.

The brand has revived their haute couture by collaborating with five young fashion designers. The first collaboration dropped in July of 2021 with Japanese designer Chitose Abe reinterpreting the Gaultier codes.

Image courtesy of anadoulagency.com

Dasvidaniya Russia, well temporarily

As the US and other countries sanction Russia over the invasion of the Ukraine, several fashion and beauty brands are following suit by closing stores and limiting inventory. Every day the list becomes larger with brands taking action against the Russian invasion. The ever-expanding list now includes L’Oreal, Unilever, Pronovias, Sephora, and the PVH brands which include Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Michael Kors, and Kenneth Cole.

In a Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) filing, PVH stated that on March 7, PVH brands will temporarily close stores in Russia and in Belarus. Two percent of PVH brands revenue comes from sales in Russia, Belarus, and the Ukraine.

 On March 8, 2022, L’Oreal stated that its stores, and their directly operated counters in department stores and its e-commerce sites in Russia, will be temporarily closed. And Unilever will stop imports and exports out of Russia.

On Instagram, Sephora announced that it will suspend operations in Russia and all its 24 boutiques in Russia. The closures and suspension of business happened on March 6.

“Given our increasing concerns about the current context and the complexity to operate, we will suspend our activity in Russia until further notice,” said the brand, which operates 2,600 stores in 35 countries, as reported in fashionnetwork.com. Sephora is owned by company LVMH.

Image courtesy of wmagazine.com

Marc Jacobs reinvents

Back in the early 2000s, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs were the go-to brands for any fashionista who wanted stylish, trendy clothes at a higher price point. And Jacobs continued this upward projection for almost two decades.

Though he hasn’t been in the news much as of late, Marc Jacobs is a fashion brand that still brings a smile to shoppers. With Marc by Marc Jacobs defunct for the last few years, Jacobs launched a new brand, Heaven by Marc Jacobs, a few years ago. Heaven by Marc Jacobs will appeal to a much younger consumer.

And in line with the youthful point of the brand, Jacobs’s has employed an array of pop stars and actors that will appeal to his young consumers, namely Nicki Minaj, Sky Ferreira, Yung Lean, Steve Lacy, Paloma Elsesser, and Mena Suvari. Mena Suvari recreates her iconic scene from “American Beauty” for Heaven by Marc Jacobs’ spring 2022 campaign.

The collection launches online and in-stores today and this season sees contributions from artist Claire Barrow, photographer Ed Templeton, 1994 TV series Hi Octane and 1950s show Gumby, and more. 

—William S. Gooch

MODELS TO WATCH for the Fall 2022 Season: The Freshmen and Some Returning Sophomores

“I look at it all through the models…

The boys who were always picked last in PE class … they are now the first (and only) choice for Fashion Week runways.” —Chad Thompson

For this third edition of “Models to Watch,” we resumed the conversation we started back in August 2021 with casting agents Chad Thompson from Communa-k (communa-k.com), and Maurilio T. Carnino of MTC Casting (mtccasting.com). Chad and Maurilio are among the fashion industry’s top casting agents in the US and Europe. Chad and Maurilio spoke with Fashion Reverie about the direction modeling is going in and who we need to be watching this season.

The topic of diversity was one of the first subjects we touched on. Both agents concur that brands are still going to embrace diversity going forward this season as the campaigns and shows they’ve been working on reflect this cultural shift. Maurilio points out that diversity is a way for designers to reach out to their customers.

Maurilio is following castings for the fall 2022 season in New York and Milan but is sitting the show season out. Instead, he has focused his energies on a campaign OTD (On This Day) for John Varvatos’ new brand for men and women. “The first is out and we just finished shooting the second one. It’s younger than the John Varvatos brand [presents]. John likes to use the term ‘unisex,’ which is more elegant, not gender-bending.”

This is right in line with the much talked about “new masculinity.” Models, celebrities, and kids on TikTok have adopted a gender fluid look that had a big moment when singer Machine Gun Kelly opened and closed the Dolce & Gabbana fall 2022 menswear show on January 15. Maurilio continues, “Vuitton was really pushing boundaries in that direction. It’s a moment where we want to explore everything in diversity; the customer wants to be represented.”

The women’s boards are also undergoing changes. Maurilio opines on what fashion is currently looking for from female models. “There isn’t a specific nationality that is in vogue now, what appeals is confidence. What makes for a perfect girl?  The measurements, yes, they are super important, but if the confidence is there, it overrides it. Models like Mica Arganaraz have it all.” The same goes for male models, such as Cherokee Jack who is 6’ even (two inches shy of the ideal runway height). Plus-size girls, he believes, should have their own platform if the designer is interested in making the clothes for them.

Chad has observed “new energy on the runways,” namely creativity with the outdoor location show venues like Proenza Schouler’s show at Little Island at Pier 55, and Rodarte’s show held in a West Village courtyard. Although most castings are still virtual due to the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, Chad told Fashion Reverie, “Things are heating up again now that we have some live shows to look forward to in the coming weeks.” This season, he’s been doing more traveling to see models as clients are very much on board with seeing vaccinated talent, and in New York, most of the models are fully vaccinated. Los Angeles and Elite Toronto (now that the Canadian border has opened) are big feeder agencies for girls who come to New York. Maurizio also finds the castings to be a little more open than last season due to designers taking precautions. Fashion houses such as Gucci do COVID-19 testing before the castings even begin.

Yet another change is that the pace of a model’s career has also slowed down, a far cry from the frenzied pre-Pandemic pace when models needed to book a dozen top shows to have a successful season. Agents are employing a “velvet rope” method of growing a promising model’s career; the model only does a few select shows to avoid overexposure in the crucial first and second seasons. Tindi Mar (one of Chad’s models from last season) walked for Altuzarra in New York and Alberta Ferretti in Milan. This approach has led to some models having an extended “first season” of one year, rather than a mere six months. Consequently, Chad and Maurilio named some of the same models they had their eyes on in August. This is notable because, pre-Pandemic, many models didn’t survive more than one season. Maurilio concluded our conversation by remarking on Naomi Campbell, a model with seemingly endless longevity. Naomi will never go away, being on the runway makes her feel alive. Maybe she will become the next Grace Coddington as Grace did—[transitioning] into a magazine editor.”

And now, meet our class of fall 2022 the freshman with some returning sophomores mixed in.

THE WOMEN

India

Instagram: @india.sampson – 1.5k followers

NEXT Model Management

India Sampson just graduated from high school. She is an example of the success of the velvet rope approach agencies are using to cultivate a model’s career. Last season, she walked for the exclusive Tom Ford show. India was a model Chad suggested to photographers for test shoots. “Testing is a good tool to see who’s good and who’s popping. India came through on a test and her height is in the range.”

Image courtesy of Instagram

Aubrey

 

Instagram: @aubrey3rin – 1.4k followers

Wilhelmina

Aubrey Hill hails from West Virginia and began her career with long hair last year. Like models before her, a haircut helped propel her career forward, as it famously did for supermodel Carolyn Murphy in the 1990s when she cut her hair into a pixie for the Prada show and instantly became a supermodel.  After the New York shows, Aubrey walked in the high-profile Gucci Love Parade show on Hollywood Boulevard in Los Angeles.

Image courtesy of One Management

Aviana

Instagram: @avi_ously_ – 6.6k followers

Muse Management

Aviana McClish is an African American model whom Chad describes as recently having grown into herself. She has walked for Bibhu Mohapatra and Tom Ford and has the elegance of a young Sade.

Image courtesy of Instagram

Pricela

Instagram: @pricela.pj – 5.6k followers

Ethos Model Management

Chad saw Pricela Januario at a casting and soon after she worked with him and Greg Lauren in Los Angeles. She has also worked with Maison Martin Margiela. This Berlin-born and raised model has roots in Mozambique and is an emerging artist.

Images courtesy of Instagram

Mika Arganaraz

IG: @micarganaraz – 375k followers

DNA Models

Mika is Maurilio’s favorite female model.  “It is all personality with Mika.”  Though Mika has been on the scene for several years, Mika is still a favorite of fashion designers and brands.

This Argentinian beauty has swiftly risen to supernova star status and is ranked as an “Icon” on models.com. She has a multitude of campaigns in her credits including Zara and Chanel. Mica covers all the bases and has strong editorial runway credits such as a cover with Vogue Ukraine and ID Magazine. As for runway shows, Mika has walked for Chanel and Versace, to name just a few.

 

THE MEN

Cherokee Jack, returning Sophomore

Images courtesy of Instagram

IG: @itscherokeejack – 20.6k followers

Ford Models

Cherokee Jack is doing very well in the editorial sphere. Maurilio finds him to be an interesting case because although his 6’0” height limits his exposure for the runway, his hauntingly beautiful face makes him perfect for editorial work.

 

Hudson Primo

Images courtesy of Instagram

IG: @hudsonprimo – 2k followers

IMG

Chad is enthusiastic about newcomer, Hudson Primo Schaetzke, who has the prestigious Louis Vuitton virtual show under his belt. His other credits include the Helmut Lang look book. Although he’s young, Hudson’s face is notable as it already has character, despite his youth. Add his long hair and mustache, and the combination is arresting.

The Vuitton show that took place in Miami served as an incubator for a lot of other new male talent, namely Aashish Takur and Joshua Navarro, who both have the multicultural look and long hair the agents say clients are focused on this year.

 

Aashish

Images courtesy of Instagram

IG: @aashishrthakur – 1.1k followers

ONE Management

Aashish Takur is from India and has started off strong, also having done the Miami Louis Vuitton show.

 

Edem Oueslate

Images courtesy of Instagram

IG: @edem_oueslate –1.6k followers

Boom Models

Edem is a compelling mix of Turkish and Albanian parents and was born and raised in Italy. He’s shot the Louis Vuitton look book and has an exclusive agreement with Bottega Venetta.

 

Joshua Navarro

Images courtesy of Instagram

IG: @nastynavvs – 2.3k followers

Like Hudson and Aashish, Joshua has also walked the Louis Vuitton Miami show, and Gucci Love in Los Angeles. He did his first show in Milan, Philip Plein fall 2022, on January 15.

 

Niccolo Geuna, returning Sophomore

Images courtesy of Instagram

IG: @011.nico – 1.5k followers

Elite Milan

Niccolo was one of Maurizio’s selections from last season who has done very well since then.

The handsome seventeen-year-old did Sandro in Paris and Jil Sander (he had the third look before the finale look), and Vogue Portugal. He continues to be requested and will come to New York for the summer for editorials and advertising work.

—Vivian Kelly

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A 2022 Fashion Reverie According to Influencers, Stylists, Designers, and Photographers

Image courtesy of nylon.com

With a new year comes new aspirations, and in the fashion industry there is much to aspire to. The fashion landscape is changing with each passing year as many consumers, especially Gen Zers, are choosing to shop second hand as they love the treasure hunt in searching for unique one-of-a-kind items. This shift in shopping habits is drastically changing industry values, especially those regarding sustainability. Similarly, many designers and creative directors are pushing for ethical manufacturing, diversity in teams, and higher quality pieces. This desire to return to “slow fashion” will likely persist in 2022. While some look to an aspirational future in the new year, others look for a resurgence of the past. The global pandemic has altered how those in the industry work, leaving those affected longing for the past. Photographers and stylists, for example, whose careers mostly rely on in-person contact, have had to adapt to working in entirely new ways from Zoom photoshoots to virtual fittings.

Fashion Reverie sought out several people in the industry to answer one question: “if you could live in a true fashion reverie in 2022, what would it look like?” to understand a wide range of desires, both personal and industry-wide, for fashion in 2022. Read below for input from content creators and designers to stylists and photographers!

Image courtesy of Instagram

Diego Leon (@dandyinthebronx)

Diego Leon created his blog, Dandy in the Bronx, in 2014 following a career as a dapper preschool teacher. His following has grown to over 40,000 people who look to his blog for tips on being impeccably suited by keeping shirts tucked, socks up, and seams straight. He has long advocated for tailoring, especially since he is 5’7” and wants to help all men have perfectly fitted outfits to wear. He also wants to make menswear accessible to everyone as shown by his partnerships with Wardrobe, and Amazon. With his eye for accessible classic menswear from head to toe, Diego Leon’s fashion reverie is set in a sustainable future.

“My fashion dream world would be that tailors and cobblers would be more mainstream. This would lead to a more sustainable world as people would just get their clothing made to measure and encourage people to repair their clothes when needed. This would also make people appreciate the craftsmanship that goes into tailoring/crafting and people would understand the prices for these kinds of things.”

Image courtesy of Instagram

Tayla Santos (@taylasnts)

Tayla Santos is a Boston-based, faith-driven fashion influencer. For as long as she can remember, she has always loved fashion; however, she’s come to realize that as much as she loves shopping and putting together outfits, what she really loves is using fashion to tell a greater story. She mixes elements of fashion, styling, and photography to create an aesthetic that captivates her audience of over 35,000 people on Instagram, Pinterest, and her blog, Tayla’s Closet. Her style is timeless, chic, and casual in neutral colors of coffee and cream, so, her fashion reverie is set in a minimalistic haven.

“When I first started out my career as a fashion and style content creator/influencer, I was known for my neutral toned capsule wardrobe. Over the years, I have collected more and more items and my wardrobe has become oversaturated with trendy pieces that it became difficult to get ready in the morning. A true fashion dream for this year would be to get back to a capsule wardrobe, get rid of a lot of unnecessary trendy pieces and focus on styling more chic and timeless looks.”

Image courtesy of Instagram

Taylor Reed (@treedfl)

Taylor Reed posted his first TikTok “get ready with me” about two months ago, and since then he has garnered a following of over 200,000. Reed tells us, “I got into creating fashion content to document my favorite clothes, which are mostly gifts from friends, vintage pieces, and other meaningful garments.” Sustainability is hugely important to Reed as his Levi 550s, which he gets dry-cleaned to keep their shape, often lays the foundation for each outfit. He then pairs a classic piece with high quality, ethically sourced garments like his Dijon-colored Deus Ex Machina jacket, Carhartt hats, screen printed tees from friends, thrifted polo sweatshirts, and passed down items from his family. As an environmental health student, many of his videos show him getting ready for classes. He also loves being outdoors, which his clothing often reflects, as he tells us, “I love rock climbing, mountaineering, surfing, and just being outdoors in general.” It is no surprise, then, that Reed’s fashion reverie is set in a world focused on nature and sustainability.

“A fashion reverie for me is one where the garments I wear are as functional and sustainable as they are aesthetically pleasing. I’d love to be able to look as good while I’m hiking and rock climbing as I do on the street.”

Image courtesy of Instagram

Thermal Taveras (@callthermal)

Thermal Taveras is the head fashion designer for WHENSMOKECLEARS, an Atlanta-based fashion brand. The brand’s roots are in jewelry as the jewel encrusted “Radiant Heart” is their signature piece and is at the heart of each collection. Last year, WHENSMOKECLEARS debuted their first ready to wear collection called “Welcome to the Underworld” mixing regal styling with casual streetwear pieces. In their upcoming collection, the brand will be presenting a collection showcasing innovation in evening wear staying true to their roots in jewelry and streetwear. With high quality pieces that dazzle most under the runway and retail lights, Taveras’ fashion reverie is set in a universe where retail powerhouses reemerge.

“My fashion reverie would be where fashion retail returns with the excitement that got me into fashion.”

Image courtesy of Instagram

Rachel Gilman (@rachelgilman_)

Rachel Gilman is a NYC-based fashion stylist who began her career as a design assistant to Betsey Johnson which blossomed into assisting stylists Lori Goldstein, Patti Wilson, Alex White and Aleksandra Woroniecka, Fashion Director of Vogue Paris. Gilman has since styled for several major publications from Vogue Ukraine, Glamour US, Interview, M Le Monde, Dazed, and The Laterals to Harper’s Bazaar KZ, ContentMode, Elle Mexico, Flaunt, Teen Vogue, Elle Vietnam, GQ South Africa, and PAPER among many others. Some of her celebrity clients include names like Dua Lipa, Nathalie Emmanuel, and Amandla Stenberg. As a stylist, her job was greatly affected by the pandemic, so her fashion reverie is set in a pre-pandemic world.

“My fashion dream is pretty simple but feels very far off- I would love to come to set without fear of getting sick, to be able to see faces again, and to create magic with nice teams.”

Image courtesy of Instagram

Roshan Moayed (@roshanmoayed)

Roshan Moayed, photographer, has worked with a variety of clients, especially locally in Houston, Texas. In the fashion realm, he has worked with notable figures like Alan Gonzalez, fashion designer and host of Project Runway Redemption. He also worked with Chasity Sereal, who is currently one of four finalists on Project Runway season 19. He has also done commercial photography jobs with NYX and CZAR by Cesar Galindo. While his work has been featured in Goji and Ignite Magazine, Moayed’s personal fashion reverie revolves around high fashion brands and publications so his work can reach a wider audience.

“That dream would probably consist of commission shoots by big brands in the industry like Prada, Gucci, and Louis Vuitton. Of course, being asked by major publications to shoot editorials would also be a dream like Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue, and W amongst other publications, of course. My reality is much more humbling, so I get my work where I can find it. I’ve shot some fashion designers here in the local market in Houston, Texas. I’m quite happy with the people I’ve met and the connections I’ve made.”

—Tessa Swantek

Fashion Flashback: Barbara Karinska

Image courtesy of flickr.com

As we move into Nutcracker season, Fashion Reverie looks back at costume designer Barbara Karinska, known for creating iconic stage costumes for the New York City Ballet, the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo and Hollywood films of the 1940s and 1950s.

Born Varvara Andreevna Jmoudsky in Krakhov, Ukraine to a successful textile family, Barbara Karinska as a child was exposed to the arts and a wealth of beautiful Ukrainian embroidery; however, she opted not to follow in her father’s footsteps, studying law at the University of Kharkov. After her first husband, industrialist Alexander Moissenko died in 1909, Karinska married Nicholas Karinsky, a successful lawyer whose law practice was in Moscow, prompting Karinska and her children from her previous marriage to move to Moscow in 1916. Karinska also practiced law during this time in addition to hosting salon nights in the family’s spacious apartment after nights of theater and ballet.

Karinska’s salon became very popular and she began exhibiting her paintings of ballet scenes in a Moscow exhibit  with her painting gaining critical and financial success. After Czar Nicholas abdicated in 1917, Karinska’s husband was appointed Attorney General and Presiding Justice of the Court of Appeals of the District of St. Petersburg. After the Bolshevik Revolution, Karinska’s husband became a marked man by the Red forces, causing him to flee to Russia, eventually settling in New York City.

After her husband escaped to the US, Karinska maintained a successful embroidery school in Russia during the reign of Lenin. After Lenin’s death and the Stalinists began to come to power, Karinska escaped Russia with the family jewels hidden in her daughter’s chapeau.

Marlene Dietrich in “Kismet” and Alicia Markova in “The Nutcracker”

First settling in Paris, Karinska after exhausting the family fortune found work creating costumes for the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo. This is where Karinska first worked with George Balanchine. Karinska quickly became a sought-after costume designer for in Paris, collaborating with Jean Cocteau, Berard, Derain, Cassandre, Balthus, Miro, Balanchine and others.After moving to London, Karinska began a long collaborative relationship with Cecil Beaton while costuming ballet, cinema, and musical revues. She also began experimenting with new fabrics and materials never before used in theatre.

Karinska with Lincoln Kirstein image courtesy of pinterest.com and Gypsy Rose Lee image courtesy of Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Karinska finally settled in New York City in 1939 before World War II broke out in Europe, reconnecting with Balanchine who had founded the School of American in New York City. Karinska immediately began costuming with the Ballet Russe de Monte Carlo. Comfortably settled in New York City, Karinska established her company KARINSKA Stage and Art Inc. where Karinska created costumes for film, stage, theater, ballet, and Sonja Henie’s ice shows.Karinska along with Dorothy Jeakins won an Oscar for the 1948 “Joan of Arc” and was nominated for an Oscar for “Hans Christian Anderson.” Other Hollywood films include “The Pirate,” and “Blue Skies.”

Karinska costumes for the New York City Ballet’s courtesy of pinterest.com

Perhaps, Karinska was important contribution to stage costumes was her ‘powder puff’ tutu. Before Karinska, tutus traditionally looked like pie plates and in ballets that had a large female corps de ballet these pie plate tutus inhibited large-scale movement with female dancers’ tutus bobbing up and down after the dancing had stopped. Karinska came up with the shorter tutu skirt composed of six or seven layers of gathered net, each layer a half inch longer than the preceding layer. The layers were tacked together for a fluffier, looser appearance.Karinska’s ‘powder puff’ tutu was first used in Balanchine’s “Symphony in C,” and became popular in Balanchine’s 1954 “Nutcracker.” “ I attribute to [Karinska] fifty percent of the success of my ballets to those that she dressed,” explained Balanchine. The ‘powder puff’ tutu prototype is now commonly used in most ballet companies around the world.

Karinska’s costumes for George Balanchine’s “Jewels”

Karinska collaborated with Balanchine in over 75 ballets. The last ballet costumes that Karinska designed for the New York City Ballet were the costumes used in Balanchine’s 1977 “Vienna Waltzes.”Barbara Karinska died in 1983, months after Balanchine’s death. In 1999 she was posthumously inducted into the National Museum of Dance’s Mr. & Mrs. Cornelius Vanderbilt Whitney Hall of Fame.

—William S. Gooch

Fashion Flashback: Amber Valletta

Images courtesy of pinterest.com, twitter.com, green4ema.org, and youtube.com, respectively

If you are deeply embedded in the fashion industry, you probably know by now that supermodel Amber Valletta is the new face of Blumarine’s spring 2018 campaign. Amber Valletta was one of those blond model goddesses of the 1990s that set fashion runways ablaze with her sassy strut and sexy visage. After a hiatus of over ten years from fashion, and some notable film appearances, Amber has gone back to her first love, fashion. Then again, she never really left. Fashion Reverie looks back at the career of Amber Valletta.Amber Valletta fits comfortably in that pantheon of 90s supermodels that include Eva Herzigova, Shalom Harlow, Kate Moss, and Carolyn Murphy. Born in Phoenix, Arizona, and raised in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Amber Valletta began modeling at the age of 15, and landed her first Vogue cover just a year later, continuing to appear on the cover of American Vogue 12 more times. In the same year Amber appeared on the cover of Vogue for the first time, she was signed as the face of Calvin Klein’s Eternity fragrance. Moving to Europe by the age of 17, early on Amber Valletta graced to covers French Vogue and Elle Italia.

   Images courtesy of interview.com, porter.com, vogue.com, harpersbazaar.es, respectively

Known for chameleon-like, transformative abilities, Jason Wu has said of Amber, “Amber has the ability to transform beautifully into any role. Her charisma and timelessness maker her such an inspiration.” In her over two decades in the fashion industry, Amber has appeared in the campaigns of Giorgio Armani, Gucci, Versace, Elizabeth Arden, Prada, Calvin Klein, and Fendi. In the 1990s Ambers signed multi-million cosmetics contracts with Calvin Klein and Elizabeth Arden.In the late 90s, Amber began to seek out a career in film. “It was hard to be taken seriously. I needed to work on my acting chops. There are so few parts available that are good for women … I feel like I’ve gotten whatever was meant to come to me and I feel really blessed,” said Amber in and Interview magazine article.

Amber in Vogue 1993. InStyle October 2016, Vogue Ukraine 2017, and Vogue 2014

In 1995 with supermodel Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta was the host of MTV’s “House of Style.” Later Amber appeared in “What Lies Beneath,” “Hitch,” “ Dead Silence,” “Transporter 2,” ”Gamer,” “The Spy Next Door,” and on television in “Revenge,” and “Blood & Oil.”Amber Valletta has been very candid about her drug and alcohol abuse issues, speaking out publicly about her addictions in 2014. Amber married Olympic volleyball player Chip McGraw in 2003. Their union produced a son, Auden. They couple divorced in 2015.

—William S. Gooch

 

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