On the Runways at New York Fashion Week, Everyone Is Just Winging It!

Bold, dramatic, and perfectly precise—the strong winged eyeliner has made a triumphant return to the runways of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) fall 2023 season. From edgy and angular to softly curved and reversed, modern takes on this iconic makeup look have been seen across a range of collections, from LoveShackFancy to Son Jung Wan. Adding a touch of edge and glamour, the strong winged eyeliner has proven to be a versatile choice for designers looking to make a statement on the runway, and a trend that is sure to inspire makeup lovers everywhere.

Image courtesy of Janine Silver

At LoveShackFancy, lead makeup artist Cassandra Garcia with Bobbi Brown created a look that was all about balancing pretty with a touch of edginess.  “The look is a really pretty pink blush to the cheeks, really a lit-from-within glow and we paired it with a matte lip color to kind of balance the glow …” Garcia explains.  Then she added the beautiful black winged liner that was “crisp and perfect” to give a bit of an edge. The liner was used to complement the clothing, which featured dresses and tops in shades of pink with unfinished edges, bows, ruffles, and beading.  Additionally, the collection featured jackets, sequin pants, miniskirts and floral dresses in shades of cream, gray, black, and different metallics, which kept true to creative director Rebecca Hessel Cohen’s vision of “unabashed femininity and strength.”

Images courtesy of BFA and Janine Silver

To complete the look, Garcia added a couple of coats of mascara that gave a bit of volume without being clumpy, keeping the overall effect fun and playful. For those looking to recreate the look, Garcia recommends grabbing a favorite pink lip color, using it on the cheeks for a quick and easy flush, and then creating a nice crisp winged liner with any black eyeliner, whether it’s a gel eyeliner or a pencil. Garcia also recommends using a Q-tip for that perfect winged shape.

Nick Lujan, lead artist for Kevyn Aucoin, brought his unique touch to the runway at Cucculelli Shaheen, with a beautiful, winged eyeliner and luminous rose gold makeup look. “We know winged liner from the ’50s. We know winged liner from the ’60s, and now certainly in the 2000s, winged liner has taken a new shape and form,” Lujan explains.

Image courtesy of Janine Silver

Drawing inspiration from the radiant beams of light as the sun sets, “It’s all about that glowing skin. Really, really light foundation, we want to see the models’ skin through the makeup … and then that winged eye.” To achieve this look, Lujan used Stripped Nude Skin Tint for the foundation, as well as Glass Glow on the high points of the cheek, a main staple in all his runway looks.

Image courtesy of Janine Silver

But the star of the show was definitely the winged eyeliner, which Lujan describes as an “understated fierceness.” He notes that the shape of the winged liner has evolved over the years, and this latest trend is “more elongated, more pulled out, for a siren eye mixed with a little bit of the fox eye that was popular a few years ago.” To round out the look, Lujan applied a highly reflective rose gold eyeshadow powder (which he mixed with a little bit of rose water) for a metallic and slick effect to pair with the winged liner.

Unsure how to get the perfect winged liner yourself?  Lujan also struggled for years and shares his tips for achieving the perfect winged eye. “When you’re working in scenarios like this, you want to balance the eye at the same time as you’re doing the winged eyeliner application. So, step one on one side, step one on the other side. Don’t try to make one perfect wing [on one eye] and then recreate it on the other side, it’ll never happen. You’ll drive yourself insane” Lujan loads his go-to liner brush with product, the Duet Definer brush—which has a lip brush on one end and an angled brush on the other end, then stamps right in the center of the eye.  He then dips his brush in more product and connects the inner corner to the middle.  Next he connects the outer corner to the middle.  “No wings, just the classic line.  After that point is done, you can apply your wings by looking straight into your mirror, which I think nobody does, they always stretch or close.  But just looking in the mirror, with your eyes open makes it so much easier, because you can see the angle you’re creating … and it’ll be a lot more symmetrical,” Lujan explains.

Image courtesy of Janine Silver

If you’d like to try a new twist on a winged liner—look no further than Son Jung Wan’s fall 2023 show.  We caught up with lead artist, Marc Reagan to discuss the inspiration behind the reversed wing. Reagan shares that they wanted to bring in elements from the collection, such as different color palettes and textures, and create an icy, flushed, “coming in from the cold” feeling that felt modern and not just an average blush.

To achieve this, Reagan infused peachy tones into everyone’s complexion and used a white liner on the lower lash line to create the pièce de résistance, a white wing on the lower lash line bringing that element of iciness. By flipping the typical extension on the eye, creating it from under instead of on top, Reagan brought a unique twist on the classic wing.  To pair with the eyes, lips and cheeks had the same tones, and showcased a blurred lip line for an effortless look.

Image courtesy of Janine Silver

In terms of trends at NYFW, Marc noted that there was a white liner moment with many artists incorporating white makeup into their look. However, Reagan made sure to make it purposeful and work with the overall look.

Winged eyeliner has been a makeup staple for decades, but the latest trend spotted on the NYFW runways takes this classic look to new heights. Featuring a crisp, dramatic wing that extends past the outer corner of the eye, the modern wing gives a bold and edgy vibe to any makeup look. Overall, the winged eyeliner trend is a must-try for anyone looking to add some low-key intensity to their look. And with these tips, achieving the perfect winged eye has never been easier.

—Janine Silver