DUR DOUX Spring 2024

For spring 2024 the mother/daughter design duo not only brings sexy back; the design duo has brought sexy back in pink and variations on pink, coral, carnation, and oragne. This collection entitled “Sous-Marine,” draws inspiration from the beauty and fragility found in underwater life. And this fragility is ever more evident as we deal with the perils of global warming. The native Floridians are very connected the water and sea life and the need to preserve and protect it.

The 34-looks in collection are made the eco-friendly and sustainable of fabrics of Italian knits, such as Salamander Ibiza knit and the exclusive ‘Brain Coral’ knit, Neptune Coral and Sea Grass mesh, Flamingo crepe and satin, Conch Shell printed cottons, Nudibranch swim knit, and dazzling micro sequins. And the collection comes in the color palettes of ombre pinks-reds, ombre greens-whites, salamander, cool beiges-browns, and sea blues.

This spring 2024 collection is for consumers that wants to lay back, chill and relax in a tropical locale, and also show off those toned sexy bodies. And a sexy body you need to pull off some these looks.

The concentration on a color palette that included variations on the color pink work well with the pink color trend seen in many spring 2024 collections. And this collection has retail value and will appeal to a large demographic.

The collection includes flowing kaftans, floor-length shirts, skirts, pants, mini and maxi dresses, ruffled bandeaus, bralettes, camis, and the debut of one and two-piece sustainable swimwear and beachwear. That said, the design duos commitment to sustainability is made evident in the eco-friendly and OEKO-TEX certified fabrics, ensuring that their creations have minimal environmental impact. This commitment fits in nicely with the Green Show’s initiatives, which DUR DOUX was a part of,  on sustainable fashion and lifestyle choices.

Images courtesy of Seventh House PR

Next season it would great if the brand chooses a better venue than the one used in this outing, and choose models that are better at showing off the garments. Hopes springs eternal!!

—William S. Gooch

Dell Scott Spring 2024

After presenting the last few seasons in Los Angeles, Paris, and Dubai, luxury label Dell Scott returned to New York to present their spring 2024 collection. The ‘anthos’ collection by the womenswear designer is a 20-piece collection of jaw-dropping formal wear. Named for the word flower in Greek, the designs were colorful, aromatic, and ravishing.

Using a mix of satins, sequins, and tulle each item moved with the model. These flowing and thoughtful designs brought a playful sensuality to New York Fashion Week where many of the collections seemed to target Gen Z’s taste for gender-neutral dressing.

Drawing on the floral name of the collection, the color palette was bold and bright. Rich blues transitioned themselves to jewel-tone purples, vibrant pinks, and the ever-crucial black. With white and gold as immortal details added throughout the Grecian-influence was clear. Small accessories and sleek ponytails wrapped in delicate ribbons also gave away the influence of the Mediterranean Sea.

With each color transition, there was a mini, knee-length, or gown option in the hue. Each of these items flowed easily together, some slightly different than the previous and the others completely new silhouettes.

Images courtesy of Dell Scott

Dell Scott, beautiful collections are not new. Established in 2015 by the American-born designer of the same name, the brand is based around empowering women to embrace their femininity. Using high slits, striking necklines, and form-fitting silhouettes every garment penciled out by Scott embraces the essence of the female form and this collection was no different. See our favorite looks below!

—Sydney Yeager

 

 

 

 

Albright College Fall 2023

The Albright College fashion now, now a regular feature during New York Fashion Week (NYFW) featured six graduates or students from the Pennsylvania college. The show presented what the future of fashion will look like. After being educated at the acclaimed college, the design students were ready to show their talent during NYFW.

Each of the young creatives held their own with unique designs and striking details. With each runway look, it was easy to see the hours of hard work that were put into the designs. The distinct looks of each designer made it easy to place the pieces into separate collections with an understanding of the story the designer was trying to share. By the end of the show, there was little doubt that the different styles and tastes of the up-and-coming young women and men dazzled the minds of their audience. Read a bit more about each designer below:

 

Alfredo Diaz

After graduating in 2016, Alfredo Diaz has now worked with industry insiders such as Anna Sui and Dzines Tex. You can see the impact that these companies had on his collection, as well as influences from his Dominican Republic heritage. These influences led to the colorful prints and details that gave the collection a tropical feeling. With a spotlight on floral patterns and loose fits that focus on comfort as well as fashion, the collection was a traveler’s dream. When Diaz creates his label, it will be sure to dominate the luxury resort-wear market.

Susan Benitez

Like something out of Sofia Coppola’s rock n’ roll biopic “Marie Antoinette,” the models flaunted garments made from jacquard and feathers. Using classic lines and delicate detailing, it was easy to see Benitez’s costuming background. After graduating in 2015, she went on to produce costumes for puppets that appeared on both Netflix and Apple TV, along with garments for special events.

Jasmin Burton

Using inspiration from iconic African American fashion designer Stephen Burrows of the ‘70s and an image of her grandmother in a yellow negligee, Burton created a collection filled with nostalgia. The opening two pieces were swimsuits in timeless cuts, with modern details. Think layered ruffles and color-blocked garments with trailing ties. As the collection continued, you could see the influence of past trends with modern takes continuing. Considering the resurgence of the love for the ‘70s after the release of Daisy Jones and the Six, we’re ecstatic to see Burton’s growth in the fashion industry and how she might influence this continuing trend.

Nicholas Kedge

Graduating in 2023, Nicholas Kedge made his fashion week debut last season and returned this year for what could only be called a grand finale. The garments hit every note with cutout details, asymmetrical elements, and cascading ruffles. Playing with this femininity, even for the menswear piece of the collection, Kedge proved himself to be a visionary who will easily capture the Gen Z market’s interest.

Victoria Aquino

With inspiration coming from Harajuku street fashion, couture runway shows, and experimental designs, Aquino brings a fantasy world to life. With draping details and asymmetrical designs as the centerfold of the collection and neutral colors in order to strike a balance, Aquino proves that everyday outfits should be fun.

All images courtesy of VERY New York

Zyaire Valentine

A senior at Albright College, Valentine’s creations look like they walked out of the new “Addams Family” show. This makes sense, given that his professors at Albright mentored him on costume construction and surface embellishments. This education was continuously brought to life on the runway through black hologram fabrics, striking textures, and extraordinary detailing. Netflix? We’d recommend adding a few pieces to Jenna Ortega’s next fitting!

—Sydney Yeager

 

Falguni Shane Peacock Spring 2024

The British brand Falguni Shane Peacock has been absent for the New York Fashion Week (NYFW) landscape since Lincoln Center for the central venue for NYFW. And they have been sorely missed!!

Each season fashion industry professional anticipated the beautifully embellished, well-crated collections from the British/South Asian husband and wife design duo. And when the much sought-after brand stopped presenting during NYFW, there was an empty wasteland once occupied by Falguni Shane Peacock’s creative genius.

Well, the husband wife creative duo is back, and back in a big way. Where in past collections, the brand’s creative milieu set solidly with that downtown fashion diva who was not afraid to take risks, this season the brand has expanded beyond its consumer of five years ago. Now, the brand has market appeal to that international hip chick who parties and showed off her personal style all over the world, from Paris to Dubai to Miami to Barcelona to Sao Paulo to Cote D’Azur to those very special VIP parties in New York City.

The newly invigorated brand used celebrity stylist Law Roach to assist in projecting a new identity, moving the brand away from that glammed up, edgy downtown girl to the international glamazon who has the deep pockets to afford luxury streetwear. In most cases this new direction was a success; however, some garments failed to register the projected new branding.

The most failed aspect of Falguni Shane Peacock new direction, titled 2.0, was in the shoes of this collection which had many of the models tediously tiptoeing down the runway, some without success. And while many of the looks in this spring 2024 collection adequately reflected the new direction of the brand, some of the garments had too many elements, resulting in a hodgepodge of disjointed ideas.

Falguni Shane Peacock was most successful when they paired streetwear hoodies and sweatshirts with their glammed, embellished pants and skirts. Still, one wonders how much market value this new direction will bring to the brand. Though there is that international younger consumer that wants to be blinged out on almost every occasion, would that consumer look to Falguni Shane Peacock for their glammed-out fashion needs.

Images courtesy of theimpression.com

That is yet to be discovered. That said, the spring 2023 collection looks great and leaves consumers and industry professionals wanting more.

—William S. Gooch

 

A. Potts Spring 2024

Fashion industry professionals have come to love Aaron Potts gender neutral fashion collections. Potts is perhaps the most formidable fashion designer in the gender-neutral niche.

That’s said, A. Potts’ spring 2024 collection is again gender neutral; however, this collection is more wearable with some garments solidly created for one gender or the other. With this spring 2024 collection Aaron proves that he is very adept at creating garments for either the masculine or feminine physique.

This spring 2024 collection was inspired by the intersectionality of fashion and urban nature. Dubbed URBANEARTH, this collection embraces nature as it would be found in an urban landscape and the concept of organic growth.

With a color palette this is mostly monochromatic and centers on strong neutral colors with some bold oranges, dark mustards, with a dash of metallic gold thrown in, this collection reflects a chilled-out spring walk through an urban terrain. This collection also has a splash of floral prints which conjure up an image of florals pushing up through the urban concrete.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Standout looks in this collection, and there are several, includes the brand’s denim ensemble with wide legs and tuxedo-inspired jacket, the gold lame ensemble with kimono-like jacket and wide-legged shorts, navy leaf print shirt tied at the waist with wide-legged white pants, and the mesh and fringe black off-the-shoulder dress.

With this spring 2024 collection, Aaron Potts is priming his collections for a wider appeal. We hope that the fashion community and consumers will stand up and take notice. We have!!

William S. Gooch

Kevan Hall Spring 2024

You will never hear from industry professionals that Kevan Hall doesn’t know how to produce a fashion show. Whether it is a runway show or a presentation, Kevan Hall’s fashion collections are always presented with sophistication, creative verve, and with consumers and fashion industry professionals in mind.

And there was no exception, in that respect, for his spring 2024 presentation. For this presentation Kevan Hall produced a runway presentation with models presenting his spring 2024 collection on a small runway several times, giving industry professionals and guests ample time to view his latest collection.

This production harkened back to fashion presentations and runways of the 1970s and 80s where models were lot more animated, interacting with the audience, and showing off the garments to best effect. There was no Pat Cleveland twirling down the runway; however, the models seemed very pleased to present this latest collection.

This spring 2024, “Cote d’Azur,” collection draws inspiration from the refined and sophisticated era of Deauville, France, during the 1930s, where the epitome of fashion was showcased along the promenade by models donning the creations of leading designers.  (Remember, the legendary Coco Chanel started her millinery business in Deauville.)

At Deauville, we also experience high jewelry first worn with a laidback casualness by wealthy socialites. And Cannes is quite close to Deauville. With Cannes being noted for his red-carpet glamour during the Cannes Film Festival, Deaville and Cannes are combined to shape Hall’s trademark aesthetic that can be seen in every detail of his spring 2024 collection.

As with all Kevan Hall collections this spring 2024 collection is very retail friendly. Hall uniquely understands what modern consumers are in the market for each season. And this particular season Hall knows that women want comfortable clothes that evoke great style with a fashion-forward sensibility. And this sensibility is reflected in Hall’s employ of the versatility of the jumpsuit which pops a few times in this collection.

This spring 2024 collection borrows heavily from 1970s silhouettes. This reference point fits in nicely with the colorful, refined era of 1930s Deauville inspiration.

Images courtesy of VERY New York

Standout looks in the collection include, but are not limited to, Cote d’Azur grand plaid trench coat, embroidered Deauville striped shirt and high-waist pant, multicolor Deauville embroidered stripe jumpsuit, Cote d’Azur plaid shirt with textured yellow split pant, and the multi-floral bouquet sequin dress with illusion back.

—William S. Gooch

Libertine Spring 2024

If you closely examine Libertine, one thing stands out above all other design elements. It’s mostly all about fabrics and textile choices.

Season after season, Libertine creative director Johnson Hartwig has made the brand stand out and excel based on his fabric choices. This season is no exception.

While in Morocco Hartig discovered some antique fabric books and was delighted in the polka-dotted fabrics and confetti fabrics from the 1930s and 40s he found in these books. Those fabric choices turned out to be the source of inspiration for this spring 2024 collection.

Accompanied by some style-appropriate spring tweeds, confetti-inspired and polka-dotted fabrics conjured images and styles you would find in nautical styles of films of the 1940s. And the ceramic tile-patterns reflect souvenirs one would garnish on an exotic vacation.

True to form, the brand has become an expert in tailoring and embellishment. Where some brands embellishments sometimes appear as something that was added on at the last minute, Johnson’s technical acumen produces garments with embellishments appearing as an almost natural augment of the garment.

Case in point, is the suit inspired by a photograph of Salvador Dali embellished with crystal-eating utensils. Also, to be considered is this season’s fringe and flower-embellished jacket.

Though inspiration for this collection are fabrics from the 1930s and 40s, Johnson manages to keep the collection fresh and current. And this collection with crazy patchwork of prints and patterns works just as well on male consumers and a female demographics.

Though there were some looks in this collection that are outside of what some consumers might ass to their wardrobe—Libertine has long been a fashion brand for the fashion risk taker—there were several garments that would appeal to wide demographic. And unlike of collections of yore, this spring 2024 collection was one of brands more retail-friendly collections.

Images courtesy of vogue.com

Bravo Johnson Hartwig. Keep up the good work!!

—William S. Gooch

Gita Omri Spring 2024

Held in the Wonderland installation building on Fifth Avenue, anyone attending Gita Omri’s Spring 2024 show could quickly see that you were about to swallow a potion and enter a dreamscape. The runway itself twisted through multiple rooms–each room decorated like a child’s dreams. From a life-size chess board to a garden party that looks like it was inspired by the Mad Hatter’s tea, the setting was the perfect place for the show.

The show itself ran smoothly, each model coming out at the right time and focused on presenting the clothes. And if you know New York Fashion Week (NYFW), you know what a feat that can be! But you’re not here to read about the execution of the event or the building it was in, no, like anyone else that opens an article about a runway show, you’re here for the review.

The 24 garments were designed twice to create a size-inclusive collection. This is the primary focus of many of Omri’s designs. “Size and numbers are something that women get so caught up in and can end up basing their self-worth on, which really bothers me. Size tags should just be a tool to find the right fit for you.” Omri explained after the show.

To avoid this, the garments all contain removable size tags that can be taken off after you’ve found what fits your body best. This brilliant idea does highlight how important size-inclusivity is for the brand, so much so that at times the clothes almost seemed to fit the plus-sized model better than the garment that fit into industry standards. This wasn’t always the case, the ponte-knit style pants and classic boatneck blouses have the potential to become a staple for women of every size. Other than those looks, some of the fabrics used seemed to take the childhood fantasy a bit too seriously. The double-layer dresses that opened the show were items that you could see a young woman in her twenties easily gravitating towards, but later in the show when the same design was produced with color-blocking details in a shimmering, sequined fabric you were reminded of the dresses you might see in a kindergarten classroom.

Part of this is kitchy-ness of Gita Omri, with the bright colors almost akin to Lily Pulitzer. The information sheet for the show included a quote from “Bridgerton’s” Queen Charlotte and when speaking with Omri after the show there was more insight on the romantic influence of the collection. Many of the pieces were inspired by her own marriage, how love builds, develops, and changes over time.

Images courtesy of VERY New York

This romantic aesthetic of the collection was demonstrated with the colors, cuts, and details shown in many of the garments. The bright colors and whimsical details are a signature stamp of the brand. As you get pulled into the colorful and whimsical world of Gita Omri, remember to stay grounded in your love for yourself and others.

—Sydney Yeager

Kobi Halperin Spring 2024

If you have worked in the fashion industry long enough, you are familiar with all the banter around which fashion collections have retail value or which collections are brilliantly creative for creative sake. Hopefully, fashion collections are balanced with both retail value and creativity; however, that is not always the case.

HALPERIN’s spring 2023 collection contains both retail value and creativity. And the brand should be proud that has obtained that delicate balance.

For this spring 2024 collection creative director Kobi Halperin was inspired by the art of Sigalit Landau. “For this collection, I drew inspiration from the captivating artwork of Sigalit Landau in her exhibition “The Burning Sea.” Her presentation involved soaking objects in the Dead Sea for extended periods, crystallizing them with salt. Each item emerged refashioned and revitalized in striking and unexpected ways. The dynamic, sparkly layers produced stunning transformations of composition and detail,” explained Kobi Halperin.

“With a background rooted in Jerusalem and Eastern Europe, Landau’s work resonates with my own. There is the memory of time, place, and form, seeped in history and tradition, deep and fundamental and tempered by struggle, yet unafraid to embrace growth and change through a hopeful and dynamic vision of the future. That vision now confronts the disruption of climate change, where human action has drawn nature’s response, which in turn will draw our own. As we do so, we will rebuild, recreate, and renew, as with Landau’s layers of salt.”

This collection is quite large with several garments organized according to the spring 2024 color palette of the brand. And this collection is extremely retail friendly, dressing consumers at every jointure of their day. Evidence of this is how well HALPERIN is doing in retail stores, especially Bloomingdales.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

What also stands out in this spring 2024 collection is that this collection has retail appeal to a very wide consumer demographic, particularly women of all ages. Kobi Halperin has his finger on the pulse of what his consumer wants, creating garments that would appeal to his base while adding in elements that keeps his base fashion forward.

—William S. Gooch

Kate Spade Spring 2024

There has been much conversation about the future of the Kate Spade brand since the designer’s untimely death a few years ago. Based on the brand’s spring 2024 collection shown on New York City’s famed Highline, all is good and well with the brand.

Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu, both design directors at Kate Spade, had a specific direction for this spring collection. Though having spring as an inspiration for a spring collection is not much of stretch, for Mora and Lyu look to that specific day in spring when cold temperatures peel away to more temperatures spring weather.

This collection presented very sophisticated classic spring looks against the backdrop of a still quite verdant Highline. Image a casual walk in Central Park just as the weather warms as you show off your sporty style, that is this spring 2024 collection.

There is nothing extraordinary or innovative about this spring collection; however, this collection is crafted so well and is styled so well many consumers will flock to have some of these garments in their spring wardrobes. And this collection is quite classic, there are several items that will appeal to young consumers.

Images courtesy of L’Officiel Malaysia

Mora and Lyu stay true to the brand’s design DNA by bringing back the Noel Print from 1999. The Noel Print has been revamped and added an infusion of youthfulness to the spring collection. And by including vintage varsity cardigans and sweaters to the collection, Mora and Lyu added a special blend of Americana to a collection that included separates that look great on an early spring day.

William S. Gooch

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