Bishme Cromartie Fall 2024

Much is expected of Bishme Cromartie. An expectation that stems from more than his “Project Runway” victory which displayed his design acumen.

 And of Cromartie deep well of creative gifts, his most hallowed blessing is his imagination. Imagination is something that cannot be taught. It springs from deep inside the soul and visions of the mind. And Cromartie is endowed with a wealth of vision, made evident in his fall 2024 collection.

The current crop of emerging designers has distinguished themselves as a generation of fashion designers who attempt to appeal to a wide demographic, mixing styles and aesthetics that can range from streetwear to avant-garde to red-carpet looks and athleisure wear. Sometimes, tossing disparate aesthetics into a bowl can result in a incoherent mishmash of ideas.

This was not the case with Bishme Cromartie. Inspired by a new aesthetic that can emerge from cornucopia of design aesthetics, Cromartie’s fall 2024 collection accomplished this new birth out of many, so to speak.

“For my Fall/Winter 2023 collection, I further explored my obsession of mixing Streetwear with Avant Garde designs. Striking, feminine and bold shapes paired with a variety of coats, edgy tops. and form-fitting dramatic gowns. I continued to define what “Street Garde” is by staying true to my aesthetic and testing new ideas. I wanted the collection to feel strong, effortlessly sex, masculine and feminine, all at the same time,” explained Cromartie.

Though Cromartie stayed mostly with a neutral palette of black, grey, and white, on occasion there were bold explosions of emperor red injected into the collection. And Cromartie’s combination of street warrior aesthetic married with soft red-carpet looks, sometimes in the same garment, proved that there can be a happy balance glam and streetwear.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

This sophomore collection from Bishme Cromartie was a gloried success. Fashion Reverie is excited to see what happens next season.

William S. Gooch

 

MELKE Fall 2024

In case you haven’t noticed, we are no longer living in the era of fashion brands that only appeal to the ladies who lunch or that downtown party girl who aims to shock or get pulses racing. Fashion is so much mor than that. And the available design aesthetic that can appeal to a wide demographic of consumers in mind boggling.

What has evolved over the past decades is creating brands that have a story that consumers can relate to. And as we live in an era of environmental consciousness and global warming, consumers look to brands that promote sustainability and inclusion.

Launched in 2020, Minnesota native Emma Gage created a fashion brand that promotes individual, sustainability and gender fluidity. The brand embraces sustainable and natural materials with garments made in New York City’s garment district, cutting down on the global footprint.

For the brand’s fall 2024 collection, Gage looked to the claymation series “Wallace and Gromit.” Entitled “The Heist,” the collection is inspired by the mischievous adventures that Wallace and Gromit often find themselves in. From traveling to the moon for cheese, stealing a diamond, and fighting a gigantic wererabbit, it seems this duo has done it all. Yet at the end of the day, they always return to the comforts of home for a hot cup of tea and a delectable slice of cheese.

The collection was presented with models in a range of vignettes from models lounging on a bed, in a kitchen making cheese sandwiches, and around a dining room table. This very relaxed environment gave models a chance to preen, show their personalities and interact with industry professionals.

Images courtesy of Agentry PR

That said, this collection is not for the faint of heart. Though more consumer friendly than some previous collections, this fall 2024 outing is crafted for the non-binary consumer who marches to their own beat and is not afraid to be noticed. And attention you will get in these clothes.

In this collection Emma Gage includes a healthy mix of tweeds, pleated looks, and big bows. And though the aesthetics in this collection were disparate, Gage found a way to make them work when mixed and matched.

The intersectionality of now and next really worked in this collection. Emma Gage keep doing what you are doing. We love the shock and awe!!

William S. Gooch

Leanne Marshall Fall 2024

Everybody loves figure skating. Well, most of us do. If you are Leanne Marshall, the two loves of her life are fashion and figure skating.

That said, since those two things are two of your favorite things, why not combine your two passions into a fashion collection? Leanne Marshall for her fall 2024 collection did just that.

Leanne Marshall chose to present her fall 2024 fashion collection on the Ice Rink at Bryant Park. And while some fashion industry professionals may consider this ice-skating presentation gimmicky, for Leanne Marshall there was no better venue that would show off the movement quality of her garments than the Ice Rink at Bryant Park. (Fashion industry professionals are always chatting about how a garment moves. You can’t get garments to move any better than skating on an ice rink.)

“I often think about my first time there, 15 years ago when I showed my winning Project Runway collection in Bryant Park during fashion week. NYFW was something else quite spectacular when it was held in Bryant Park, and I am so happy and honored to have experienced that. My NYC fashion career was kind of born there some 15 years ago, and I get that same surreal magical feeling whenever I skate there now,” says Marshall.

Leanne Marshall’s fall 2024 consists of flowy, diaphanous dresses embellished with ruffles, a few sequins. These flowy dresses come in bold pastel colors. And these whimsical dresses evolved from similar garments that Marshall was creating her showroom that she wore to her ice-skating lessons.

“The dopamine high of skating around in a flowy dress: I 10 out of 10 recommend!  This natural high led to an idea to do a show or photo shoot where she could have pro skaters wearing her collection and she would watch them move in tandem with the fashions to create a new fashionable synergy. “Not wear them to compete or perform in,” explains the designer, “but more to explore the way they’d create movement and to capture that joy I’ve grown to love,” explained Marshall.

Images courtesy of VERY New York

Though this is a nontraditional approach to a fashion show, Marshall’s presentation provides lots of joy and smiles. And isn’t that one of the things that fashion is all about.

Marshall says it best, “My biggest purpose in designing anything is to bring a sense of joy and uplift to the wearer. We all need fun and play in our lives, now more than ever.”

Well said!!

William S. Gooch

 

 

 

David Koma Fall 2024

David Koma’s fall 2024collection is what a dancer looks like from day to night!  Through a study of dance emerges an imaginary exchange between the late German neoexpressionist dance pioneer Pina Bausch and the contemporary Spanish action artist Candela Capitan. The collection deconstructs the dress codes of the on-duty and off-duty dancer’s wardrobes through the modernist glamour of David Koma.

The collection swings the pendulum between minimalism, maximalism, shape and color. What is also fabulous about this collection is you see both Pina Bausch minimalism reflected in the neutral color palettes of white and black. The silhouettes created in that color palette becomes complete with the addition of leggings or trousers, producing a head to toe look that is cohesive. The dancers’ uniform or costumes morph into gorgeous tops and evening dresses. Chiffon and marabou fathers are also incorporated into some of the garments in this fall 2024 collection.

Candela Capitan’s influence can be seen with the pieces that are structured well with excellent tailoring. With fabric selections such as neoprene, liquid jersey, and macramé infused with color but still reflecting a dancer’s wardrobe, the collection just comes alive! The luxe touches of shearling and knee-high soft leather boots is the icing on the cake. Art truly meets fashion in this collection.

Talk about now and next, this collection has both. Let wearable art rule the day!!

Images courtesy of David Koma

Well done, David Koma, well done.

Renessta Olds

 

AKNVAS Fall 2024

For this New York Fashion Week (NYFW), AKNVAS has again shown a testament to artistic inspiration and timeless elegance. From tactile knitwear infused with playful Pom Pom details, honoring Richard Artschwager’s enigmatic art, to faux fur pieces mirroring the ethereal charm of John Currin’s paintings, even the finest detail of the threads tells a story of creativity and culture. Under the vision of Christian Juul Nielsen, AKNVAS unveiled a compelling portrayal inspired by a recent journey to Rome.

AKNVAS founder, Christian Jull Neilsen, says this collection represents “A voyage between La Galleria Nazionale in Rome and John Currin’s emotional portraits.”

Nielsen’s vision extends further to the vibrant atmosphere of the Chelsea galleries in New York City, drawing inspiration from the emotive portraits by John Currin. Adding another layer of architectural homage, column shapes emerge throughout the collection, mirroring the grandeur of Roman columns. These structural elements adorn garments, offering a sculptural dimension that echoes the iconic architecture of the ancient city. Textures include stone-washed denim flowers inspired by Hellenistic statues, gold details echoing the palazzos of Rome, and new faux furs that bring the portraits of John Currin to life. This artistic reference adds depth to the collection, juxtaposing the historical richness of Rome with contemporary notions of femininity and desire.

Textures are always key to the soul of AKNVAS, this season the textures are experienced in elongated cable knit pencil skirts, wool pon pons, and fringe decorating knit styles on both oversized sweaters and body-con rib dresses. This collection seamlessly incorporates minimal tailoring in pinstripe fabrics and stone-washed denim, echoing the AKNVAS signature of clean lines and subtle details. On top of that, 3D flowers bloom in stone-washed denim and crochet, capturing the essence of an enchanted Roman garden.

Images courtesy of AKNVAS

Finally, draped sequin dresses pay tribute to Rome and Currin’s artistry, embodying the grandeur of Roman architecture and the emotive brushstrokes of Currin’s masterpieces. These concepts evoke a meaningful narrative of beauty, craftsmanship, and timeless appeal.

Lauren Pierre Louis

RETROFETE Fall 2024

EXUALITY. CONFIDENCE. ALPHA. Those are the three words the founder of RETROFETE used to describe the brand’s upcoming womenswear collection for the fall 2024 collection. The Israeli-born designer, Ohad Seroya, gives a first taste of timeless glamour with this collection. He found a perfect balance of inspiration and culture from his home country and his new home in New York. From Tel Aviv and the abundant nightlife in Israel to the bustling pop culture from New York, especially from the 1980s and films, Seroya took those two factors and created the perfect representation of what he calls ALPHA WOMAN.

“Surrounded by powerful women across all facets of my life, I find myself drawn to their fierce energy. This feeling comes to life through my designs, unveiling the collection’s focal point: The ALPHA WOMAN. Both professional and provocative, she is the embodiment of timeless glamour. Setting the scene for this season, the ’80s are reimagined as we draw back the curtain on this sophisticated starlet.”      

RETROFETE goes deep in exploring the sexual dynamism found in the garments on the runway. Whether it’s an eye-catching sequined dress, a fur coat over a cinched blazer dress, or even a rebellious denim jacket with a warm blue accent on the edges, the versatility of this collection knows no bounds.

Images courtesy of RETROFETE

When someone wears a RETROFETE garment, you can stop and observe that they’re the life of the party, and that’s exactly what Seroya did in this fall 2024 collection … brought LIFE to the PARTY. With the runway studded with flamboyant silhouettes and over-the-top glam, RETROFETE is unapologetically sexy.

Lauren Pierre-Louis

NARDOS Fall 2024

One of the hardest things for a fashion brand to accomplish is a great second collection after a stunning debut collection. Usually, fashion designers put all their skills and craft into their first collection which may leave said designer bankruptcy when it comes to their sophomore effort.

That is not the case with Nardos Imam.  Inspired by the Gilded Age of the 1880s, Imam ingeniously distilled the glamour and elegance of the Gilded Age into her fall 2024 collection.

“My inspiration can be best be articulated through the fusion of American fashion from the Gilded Age with a contemporary twist. I have seamlessly woven the elegance of this Age into my collection, taking cues from the opulence of that era while infusing vibrant colors inspired by the exotic birds found in fine art. During that time, women used fashion not only as a form of expression but also as a reflection of their beliefs,” explain Nardos Imam.

Though this collection contained 54 looks—an enormous amount compared to the number of garments seen in other New York Fashion Week (NYFW) collections—with a few exceptions, for the most part there was cohesiveness in this collection. And though this collection was slightly less spectacular than the brand’s debut ready-to-wear collection, there were stunning garments in this 2024 collection.

In this outing, Nardos Imam demonstrated that her brand is a viable alternative and even maybe a first choice when it comes to red-carpet garments for the fall 2024 season. Particularly, if a classic elegance updated with a modern sensibility, is the desired projection.

Standout looks in this collection include, but are not limited to, the brand’s tailored blouson sleeve jacket with draped slit skirt, silk and wool pearl embroidered jacket and dress capture a classical elegant blend with a modern twist, ivory knit dress with blouson sleeve bolero and organza floral details, intricate Italian velvet lace with dramatic ruffle neckline, dress featuring a lavish red embroidered bodice that flows into a voluminous tulle overlay, and sculpted jeweled embroidered bodice with a shimmering tulle skirt.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Bravo Nardos Imam, Keep the glamour and elegance coming!!

—William S. Gooch

Libertine Fall 2024

Day One of New York Fashion Week (NYFW) kicked off with a bang! Libertine, a luxury ready- to-wear brand unveiled their fall 2024 collections for men and women. With lines stretching down the block full of industry professionals and influencers trying to get into the Starrett-Lehigh, Fashion Reverie expected an exciting show!!

 Libertine creative designer Johnson Hartig did not disappoint. The collection was filled with luxurious details. The runway was awash in sequins, colorful flowers, black and white checkered pants, and veiled headbands. Also incorporated into this collection is one of Fashion Reverie’s favorites, the embellishment trend. Vibrant colors, lively prints and crystal embroidery reigned supreme.

Hartig drew inspiration, through deep hypnosis sessions, from the lives of creatives Jean Cocteau, Mary Quant, Peggy Guggenheim, and Lord Bryon emerged! The designer says, “Peggy Guggenheim emerged three times, suggesting a strong kinship between them while expressing a desire to wear Libertine and jazz it up a bit.”

Embellished blazers and graphic prints are what the brand is known for, and the DNA aesthetic of Libertine allows consumers to go from daytime to nighttime in the same look!  And there are lots of buttons on garments in this fall 2024 as is true to the brand DNA of Libertine. However, this season the decorative buttons have a historical reference. These buttons heavily adorn coats and sunglasses, and in some cases, reference the iconic Peggy Guggenheim who always wore signature sunglasses.

In addition to historically referenced buttons, Hartig took lines from Byron’s 1816 poem “Darkness,” placing those lines on black on ivory and ivory on black suits and coats. These prints, so to speak, also contain images of Hartig, friends, dogs and the personal belongings of the Libertine staff.

Images courtesy of Libertine

True to form this fall 2024 collection is an assemblage of several reference points, but it all miraculously comes to gather in a cohesiveness that is unique to Hartig. Bravo Johnson!!

Renessta Olds

Morilee Bridal Fall 2024

2023 is a very special for the Morilee bridal brand. In fact, this year is their 70th anniversary. That’s right the 70-year anniversary with Madeleine Gardner at the helm for over two decades.

In celebration of its 70th anniversary, Gardner marries traditional bridal silhouettes with a modern elegance and opulent glamor. There’s lots of tailored layering, as well as sculptural necklines with some beautiful hand beading. Additionally, each gown exudes movement and a modern sensuality which all so necessary for modern brides.

What especially stood out at this runway presentation was the joy that each model brought to each appearance on the runway.  There was pride, there was sass, and above all the models really understood how to show off the bridal gowns. Which is understandable, after all this was the 70th anniversary of the brand, so a celebratory mood was in order.

This fall 2024 collection was an homage to Morilee. Still, the collection didn’t start and stop as a look backward retrospective, there were several bridal gowns that demonstrated that this collection was not just a tribute.

Images courtesy of Atelier PR

Standouts in this collection included, but were not limited to, the strapless A-line wedding dress with optional sleeves made with organza and Mikado, strapless fit-and flair wildflower tulle wedding dress with a sweetheart neckline, off-the-shoulder ball gown in tulle with a layered fabric, and long sleeve trumpet wedding dress with a bateau neckline in tulle.  And it must be noted that the ballgown with black floral bodice, embellished with white floral rosettes was an absolute stunner and showstopper.

William S. Gooch

Peter Langner Bridal Fall 2024

If you follow bridal collections, you are aware that Peter Langer’s bridal collections are a mix of traditional bridal silhouettes and modern bridal perspectives. For his fall 2024 bridal collection, Peter Langer employed sustainable fabrics to impact the environmental challenges of climate change and global footprint of pollution.

In this fall 2024 bridal collection, entitled “The Responsibility of Beauty,” Langner understands that beauty for beauty’s sake does exist in world of its own. Beauty does have a responsibility, a responsibility to not just to inhabit the sphere of beauty but a responsibility to sustainability and the environment. There is an intersectionality to all things.

Additionally, Langner looked to the intersectionality of where beauty and opulence meet for his fall 2024 bridal collection. This rarefied space, though fantastical, is obtainable in this fall bridal outing.

Drama and taste for the spectacular reign supreme in Langner’s fall 2024 bridal collection. And though the drama is palatable, there is much to choose from that will appeal to a wide selection of bridal customers.

Like many of his bridal collections, Langner includes some red-carpet gowns from his ready-to-wear collection. These red-carpet additions reflected Langner’s penchant for spectacle and drama evidenced in exciting, asymmetrical embellishments.

Still, this review is centered on Langner’s bridal collections. And this bridal collection was stunning, with a few misses, despite the glamour.

Images courtesy of theimpression.com

Keep up the good work. Bravo, Peter!!

William S. Gooch

 

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