Bibhu Mohapatra Spring 2020

Interestingly, Bibhu Mohapatra’s spring 2020 collection was inspired by the book Nothing Personal. Published in 1963, Nothing Personal was a project by James Baldwin and Richard Avedon. Both Baldwin and Avedon were high school friends. And though paths were divergent from each other, in their own way their voices documented the American spirit and individuality of its time. Avedon through a photographic celebration of American beauty and changing norms, and Baldwin’s take on America’s dark side, a dissertation on America’s exclusivity, cruelty, but hopeful future.

In Bibhu Mohapatra’s spring 2020 collection, which is also the brand’s 10th anniversary, the designer sought to show how these disparate reflections can express courage, diversity, originality, and strength. And like both Avedon and Baldwin, this collection shows incredible beauty and freedom, as well as honest transparency and reflection.

In this collection, Mohapatra is not afraid to express his maturity and ascendency. No longer pandering to outside influences who seek to direct a designer’s aesthetic, Mohapatra, in this collection, stays the truest to his brand’s DNA and soul. Perhaps, after much reflection and examination, Bibhu Mohapatra has discovered what works best for his brand and what truly reflects his purpose. If that is true, this discovery showed through in this collection. There were no tricks, no gimmicks, and no nods to what’s supposed to work, but bravely, just true Bibhu Mohapatra.

This collection contains some of Bibhu Mohapatra most-loved design aesthetics; asymmetrical cuts, non-traditional fabric combinations, pinstriped fabrics, and glam embellishments. And to balance out these signature looks, Mohapatra has also incorporated some the seasons most enduring trends; denim, polka dots evidenced in this collection as point d’esprit, swan feather jackets, and long-hair mink.

Though Bibhu Mohapatra’s day looks were strong and further expressed his new-found confidence, still, like in previous collection Mohapatra’s evening wear is his strong point. Where in previous collections Mohaptra’s architectural and asymmetrical cuts, at times, lacked movement and fluidity; however, in this spring 2020 collection there was much more ease of movement and comfort.

Photos courtesy of vogue.com

Standout looks in this collection include the brand’s mango crepe double-breasted vest suit over pleated tulle and cotton tunic, ivory point d’esprit dress with guipure lace skirt, ivory crepe column gown with crystal lattice embroidery, tangerine and turquoise dress with crystal lattice embroidery under black swan feather jacket,  navy point d’esprit ball dress with crystal medallions under white swan feather jacket, and blush and black silk barathea gown with train.

William S. Gooch

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