Fashion News Alert: Marc Jacobs’ New Line, Cara Delevinge Collabs with Balmain, Jean Patou Rebrands, and Slim Pickings for NYFW: Men’s Spring 2020 season

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Everyone is aware of Marc Jacobs struggles since 2015. At one time, Jacobs was the darling of that fashionista set of the early 2000s for who Jacobs could do no wrong. Think “Sex and the City’s” Cara Bradshaw, who was a Marc Jacobs’ devotee.

Those days are long ago. And Jacobs is in need of new invigoration and re-introduction of his design aesthetic and genius to the new fashionista at lower prices.

The Marc Jacobs, Jacobs’ new line, hopes to do that. With The Marc Jacobs, Jacobs’ is revisiting collaborations, archives and collections from the past.

“It’s not so much about trying new product categories as it is about communicating them, packaging them and making the experience a little bit different for this day and age,” Jacobs says, as reported in “If that [means] it has to be more appealing online, or if it has to be more appealing in reality through a different form of retailing than we’ve ever done before … We always put stuff out in the store, then if people wanted to buy, they bought it. I don’t know if that cuts it anymore.”

The Marc Jacobs launches on Thursday.

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Cara and Balmain

Supermodel Cara Delevinge, after taking an absence from fashion and appearing in three films, stuck her foot back into the fashion pool, so to speak, last September opening Balmain’s spring 2019 show. Delevinge’s love affair with Balmain continues as she is now set to collaborate with the iconic French fashion house on a leather goods capsule collection, BBags.

Balmain creative director Oliver Rousteing has designed three leather bags for this small capsule collection with Cara decorating and deciding on the metal details of the leather bags. The inspiration for these bags came from the rocker influence in Balmain’s fall 2019 show.

“She has attitude. She’s a troublemaker and she doesn’t care. She’s provocative, but it’s a paradox–she can be gentle and romantic, an angel or a devil. She can’t be categorized,” explained Rousteing. 

The BBags will launch on May 29.

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A deflated NYFWM

Saying that New York Fashion Week: Men’s (NYFWM) spring 2020 season is on a diet, is an understatement. Realizing that NYFW has very little traction on the international fashion scene, the CFDA moved NYFWM from the second week of July and paired with New York City’s resort collections.

Though launched with much fanfare in 2015 with John Varvatos, Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Nautica, and Perry Ellis presenting their collections in the inaugural season, many esteemed menswear brands quickly defected and chose to present their menswear in more esteemed men’s fashion weeks in Europe and Asia. Now, NYFWM is down to a three-day event, populated with mostly emerging menswear designers and the few menswear diehards who continue to support the flailing men’s fashion week.

This season saw the defection of some New York-based menswear designers to Paris. Namely, Sies Marjan, and Bode, with Palomo Spain returning to Paris, after a much-heralded fall 2019 collection shown in NYC in February.

Maybe incoming president Tom Ford can find a way to inject some much-needed energy and corporate dollars into NYFWM’s before it fades into recent memory. Good Luck, Tom!!

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Jean Patou simplifies

In the fashion industry name recognition is everything, well almost! In an era where fashion brands come and go as quickly as the season, it is so important for a brand to have a simple name that is easily remembered.

Many famous couture houses over time reduced their brand name from the name of the designer to just name or a combination of names. Coco Chanel became Chanel. Yves Saint Laurent became Saint Laurent, and Christian Dior became Dior.

Jean Patou now follows suit. LVMH took control of the French luxury house and is looking forward to the house relaunch as Patou. “Onomatopoeia that we love to repeat. A recognizable appeal, a je-ne-sais-quoi that resembles you. Patou is Patou!” wrote the label.

Patou will also have a new logo in large black letters on a white background. “A new logo inspired by the house’s archives, to see the label enter into a new era.”

William S. Gooch

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