LANDLORD Fall 2019

LANDLORD’s Creative Director Ryohei Kawanishi in his seventh menswear collection went back to school for inspiration for his fall 2019 collection. Initially inspired by the Ivy League—the Darmouth, Princeton, Yale, and Harvard version of higher education—Kawanishi decided to expand his original perspective to include education from kindergarten to graduate school.

This expansion resulted in a collection that was playfully dark with a color palette inspired by building blocks juxtaposed a very relaxed a design aesthetic that bordered on psychotic kid’s play. One would think that a menswear collection inspired by education would be an intellectually hip compendium on style and fashion seen through the lens of brainy pursuits, or at least a fashion-forward, sporty collage of well-known collegiate silhouettes and symbols.

Not so, Kawanishi’s in this fall 2019 lecture conjures up images of an anti-intellectual student; a student that is somberly playful and may be a product of the laid-back stoner and slacker culture. And that stoner slacker culture has a definite, if not significant, place among young consumers.

Kawanishi’s formal meets informal projection, though admirable, just doesn’t quite hit the mark. And one of the downfalls of this collection is Kawanishi’s use of non-traditional models that did not serve the garments well. For fall 2019 lots of designers are including non-traditional models in their collections, and for the most part this inclusion is a fail. This attempt at inclusion only works if the non-traditional models add to the design aesthetic of the collection. Unfortunately, as in most other collection this season, this inclusion is an oddity and detraction, not a relevant expansion.

Photos courtesy of Laforce Stevens NYC

Though this collection does have some great menswear separates—great coach jackets, blazer jackets, and leather coats—combining these traditional collegiate silhouettes with a Crayola-colored palette and neon colors, as well as, the oversized design aesthetic, rendered an incohesive collection. And only a few looks for this collection actually had some retail value.Unfortunately, Ryohei Kawanishi missed the mark in this collection. And with the exception of a few interesting Instagram moments, this fall 2019 collection didn’t have the strong —William S. Gooch

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